thanks for the video - when I re-soldered the (6) legs on the input PCB one of them (in the middle) completely disappeared 😲 ...but the amp still works and now doesn't short out 👍
I'm glad I found this channel. I recently bought one of these and I think I'll preempt the failure and go your route. Thanks for posting, just subbed n thumbed.
@@Andrewausfa it’s the only kind I use! I took electronics as my career in high school and the instructor taught us why lead free solder is absolute junk. This is why, it is brittle!
This is a great video; detailed and to the point. Thanks for taking the time! I had the exact same symptoms as you described ie loud, annoying humming but when I inspected the input jacks and board using your video, I found 1) the "clip" you describe (6:32) had no housing (ie the white plastic piece attached to the board) and 2) one of the four "prongs" soldered thru the board (that the clip attaches to) had come loose from the board. The tiny bit of solder was still attached to the prong and a small part of the green board covering is attached to the solder but the . This loose prong is on the FTSW input jack (which I don't use). I'm not an electrical guy (chem eng) but can you tell me if you think this could cause the same humming issue? If so, do you think I can fix this by using super glue to reattach the prong to the board?
Excellent video! I have one Mustang I too, and the round top plastic of the phones jack is cracked, so the jack don't connect very good. Do you have any idea where can I get this part? Thanks.
MIne gives sound only via headphone output. If i connect it to line in of another amp i get sound: headphone out mustang -> another amp line in. I dont get any sound if i try to play with mustangs speaker. If i max the volume i get a veeery silent sound.
So the pre-amps working but nothing out of the main amplifier? Have you checked the speaker leads are connected to the speaker? Sounds obvious but can be as simple as that. Other than that it's either between the input to your amplifier chip from the pre-amp or from the chips 'out' leg to the speakers. Could be a fried chip, it does happen.
@@Andrewausfa yeah i opened it and checked but everything seems ok. I had a talk with a friend who had the same situation and found that in his mustang it was a chip in power amplifier. he will fix mine too so thx for response :)
What happened to me (I have the Version 2 model), the cheap plastic nut around the input jack came loose, and before I noticed it, the physical stress was all going directly to the Input PCB and the soldered points came loose. I have redone the soldering twice, and I'm absolutely baffled, I may try a third time to make sure it has the best contact, but honestly, between the plastic jacks, the nuts and the board itself, it's a pretty awful design that still somehow made it to the second version... Anyway, good video!
@@Andrewausfa Nope. I was using regular ole' leaded rosin core solder. One issue was that the solder kept sticking to the iron itself. Though this video did inspire me to try it again and it did work this time. 👍
@@Andrewausfa Yep, I de-soldered it and used the solder sucker. It's strange though, because I've never had solder "magnetize" to any of my irons before. But thank you for the video, at least I know now that most of what I was doing is correct!
Hi, could you please help me find out if the FX loop jack of my amp is working fine or if it has a connection fault? How and where should I put the tester probes with a multimeter in order to test it? The sound come and go, I need to check where the fault comes from, thanks! Thanx!
I've had one of these little things for close to four years. I probably don't have problems with it because I never remove the cable from the input jack.
My amp has been unplugged for 2 days. If those little charges come into contact with anything besides my finger will I get zapped? I was fiddling with the input jack and it fell into the cavity, easy fix but I dont know what no to touch!!!
Hi Tony, what not to touch is anything in the power supply sections so you 100% must remove the mains lead (aka line cord in the US) from the socket first, that's the most important thing. Secondly it's good practive not to touch anything in the power supply section whether plugged in or not. There is likely no charge left on the bigger capacitors (the can shaped things) but best not to take the chance. If you touch and they discharge through you you'll get no more than a tingle. However, your natural reaction will be to whip your hand out of the away and then you may cut it on something. If you touch something with it plugged in, and it's Live or Hot, then it's a different story and you might not be able to let go.
Hi Christine, looks like what is called a 3.5mm jack. Same sort of thing as your headphone socket on your phone. I need to have a look to see if you can get an exact replacement, there are two types, stereo and mono. You have a lovely singing voice, just watched your cover of When I'm Gone, full of soul.
Hi. Sorry but i dont khow who else to ask I added a jack3.5 (for the headphones) input to my amp because i broke the other I did it by soldering wires on the contacts on the circuit board of the old jack. But now i have buzz issues when i plug in my headphones... Any advice?
I use an 18" M to F cord that plugs into the amp and I just plug into that every time, so it takes that stress off the pcb board. I'd really like to know how to wire in a standard metal jack socket with wires, even if it means losing the footswitch. I never use it and don't gig so I don't need it.
Hi, jack sockets rarely wear out unless you damage them, like kick the jack while it's plugged in or something so I'd suspect the soldering. A soldering iron's a good investment anyway.
My amp seems to lose a little power after a few minutes of playing and it starts to buzz when I play on clean channels. I read that this could also be the jack socket fault.
Hi, could be but it could be another dry joint anywhere on the board. Dry joints are caused by mechanical failure like the stress from sticking your jack lead in and out (and this amps input is poorly designed from that point of view) or the solder joint fails from continual thermal expansion and cooling around components that get hot, like resistors, transistors, IC regulators, valves/tubes etc that sort of thing. It"s a very hard problem to fault find hence the use of a magnifier, hair drier and freezer spray! I would suggest if you turn your amp on, no input, just leave it and it goes quiet after a few minutes, then you have a dry joint further along the signal path or you may have a component failing as it warms up. The latter may be catastrophic to your amp if it fails and takes other components out. The buzzing on clean may be unrelated. Cheers - Andrew
It’s the only amp this ever happened to me before. It won’t work at all now. It’s so cheap I shouldn’t care but it’s made me mad because I bought it for my students to use. It sounded really good (surprisingly) but it lasted a short time and now nothing.
Hi William, I just resoldered the original jack socket. You can buy new generic ones from eBay, Amazon etc. which s all these are i.e. cheap. Just clean the legs before you solder them in with IPA or a light sandpaper, makes for a better joint. Cheers- Andrew
I have a Fender Mustang III and it started dropping volume when I set it beyond 5 in the master volume. I cleaned all potentiometers and even a technician changed the master volume pot but it keeps doing that. Can you help me?
@ david torres i had volume fade on a crate & on the back of it the efx. send/return jacks were corroded a bit on the flat metal "switch" leg. i never used it & didnt think about the signal path goes thru there. when its used, the plug will "break" the connection & re-route the signal thru the cable. so the corrosion was breaking the signal route & it stopped there. at higher volumes, the physical vibrations would cause movement to the metal switch leg & the electrical signal to start losing contact & re-contacting very fast. as the vibrations increased, the switch leg contact point was moving onto the corrosion and back off it. until it not making contact long enough to send a proper signal. kinda like driving a car so fast that your only hitting the high spots in the road. and the high spots are corrosion !!!
Hi Kristi, all I can advise is to carefully check the soldering if the state of mine was anything to go by. I only have this Mustang I I'm afraid. Obviously I don't know your experience so go carefully as there is high voltage inside.
Thanks. I know nothing about repairing amps. After further investigation I found information that the amp had been stored in a cold building for a year therefore, I believe moisture affected it. If you hold your head sideways you can see an glimpse of the selections.
Dude can you help me with my 2nd hand Mustang 3 v2??? It works but there is a horrible background buzz that almost drowns out the sound of my guitar. Turning the amp up just makes it worse. The courier who dropped it off slammed it down on the floor when he got it out of the van #idiot! Don't know if that could have done anything to cause this. How do I go about diagnosing it?? 🙏
@Andrewausfa dude thankyou for your reply! :) luckily I think it's OK and it was my guitar cable that was causing the noise think the insulation was shot, it's LOADS quieter with a new cable only an audible fuzz on high gain presets. So happy with it these amps are fantastic! Managed to get the FUSE software and nearly 10,000 presets downloaded from an old forum post. If anything ever goes wrong with it I will be straight back to this video! ❤️
@@banksy444 That's great, I hate it when you go chasing your tail like that. Cable should be an easy repair. Yep shame Fender doesn't support these any more really, they're a great practice amp.
I'm really annoyed. I Che ked the spring in the input jack. It rises as the plug is inserted. So it seems there is good contact. Indeed a few solder points were cracked. I resoldered them. Reasdamled my Mustang 1 v2 and the jack still has intermittent contact.
Make sure the soldier has REALLY good contact with the PCB, I had to re-solder mine three times before I finally got it. The third time I used extra solder and got it in good.
seems overly complicated for what it is whats wrong with a kick ass power supply with a hefty transformer ! and a brute force discrete output stage ! the effects side of is cool though !
Exactly! I was quite amazed at what they packed in to so little. My main amp is an old HH thing that weighs a ton, this thing weighs a couple of bags of sugar. It's good for 20W per the manual so quite amazing how technology has moved on. Plus of course all the different sampled/emulated amplifiers you can 'use'. Get this as well...it connects via USB to a computer so you can programme your own tones. When I were a lad.......
Thanks! Mine had the exact same issue, hopefully my clumsy solders hold up.
Fyi, no need to remove the entire board, the input piece comes out easily.
thanks for the video - when I re-soldered the (6) legs on the input PCB one of them (in the middle) completely disappeared 😲 ...but the amp still works and now doesn't short out 👍
You’re a life saver! Your description matched my issue exactly. Wonderful explanations and demonstration. Thank you!
Glad it worked. It's that useless solder Fender used and a not great mechanical design.
thank you so much sir ! it looks like it's a very common issue that is hard to spot when you're just an enthusiast , truely lifesaver !
Realising the issue, getting the PCB out, and making my friend put thick solder on it, your video helped so much. Thank you!
Glad I could help!
I'm glad I found this channel. I recently bought one of these and I think I'll preempt the failure and go your route. Thanks for posting, just subbed n thumbed.
Brilliant! Found your video and fixed amp in like under 15 minutes.
Superb! Pretty easy job but well worth found even if not broken.
Brilliant video! I just picked one of these up and it had this issue. Thank you for helping me fix it!
No problem :) I hope you used good old fashioned 60/40 solder! :)
@@Andrewausfa it’s the only kind I use! I took electronics as my career in high school and the instructor taught us why lead free solder is absolute junk. This is why, it is brittle!
thanks, this helped me deal with my amp
Thanks a lot! I had exacly the same issue and just fixed following your video
This is a great video; detailed and to the point. Thanks for taking the time! I had the exact same symptoms as you described ie loud, annoying humming but when I inspected the input jacks and board using your video, I found 1) the "clip" you describe (6:32) had no housing (ie the white plastic piece attached to the board) and 2) one of the four "prongs" soldered thru the board (that the clip attaches to) had come loose from the board. The tiny bit of solder was still attached to the prong and a small part of the green board covering is attached to the solder but the . This loose prong is on the FTSW input jack (which I don't use). I'm not an electrical guy (chem eng) but can you tell me if you think this could cause the same humming issue? If so, do you think I can fix this by using super glue to reattach the prong to the board?
Nice looking modern amplifier. Lead free is evil. Looks like the connectors should have been heat staked, but they drilled wrong holes in PCB
Excellent video! I have one Mustang I too, and the round top plastic of the phones jack is cracked, so the jack don't connect very good. Do you have any idea where can I get this part? Thanks.
Hi Tiago, do you mean the nut on the jack plug socket? Any electronics store or guitar shop.
MIne gives sound only via headphone output. If i connect it to line in of another amp i get sound: headphone out mustang -> another amp line in. I dont get any sound if i try to play with mustangs speaker. If i max the volume i get a veeery silent sound.
So the pre-amps working but nothing out of the main amplifier? Have you checked the speaker leads are connected to the speaker? Sounds obvious but can be as simple as that. Other than that it's either between the input to your amplifier chip from the pre-amp or from the chips 'out' leg to the speakers. Could be a fried chip, it does happen.
@@Andrewausfa yeah i opened it and checked but everything seems ok. I had a talk with a friend who had the same situation and found that in his mustang it was a chip in power amplifier. he will fix mine too so thx for response :)
What happened to me (I have the Version 2 model), the cheap plastic nut around the input jack came loose, and before I noticed it, the physical stress was all going directly to the Input PCB and the soldered points came loose. I have redone the soldering twice, and I'm absolutely baffled, I may try a third time to make sure it has the best contact, but honestly, between the plastic jacks, the nuts and the board itself, it's a pretty awful design that still somehow made it to the second version... Anyway, good video!
Are you using lead free solder?
@@Andrewausfa
Nope. I was using regular ole' leaded rosin core solder. One issue was that the solder kept sticking to the iron itself. Though this video did inspire me to try it again and it did work this time. 👍
@@N75911_ That might be the issue, did you get a!l that awful lead free stuff off first? Lead free doesn't mix too well with 60/40.
@@Andrewausfa
Yep, I de-soldered it and used the solder sucker. It's strange though, because I've never had solder "magnetize" to any of my irons before. But thank you for the video, at least I know now that most of what I was doing is correct!
Hi, could you please help me find out if the FX loop jack of my amp is working fine or if it has a connection fault?
How and where should I put the tester probes with a multimeter in order to test it? The sound come and go, I need to check where the fault comes from, thanks!
Thanx!
First check it's not your leads. Secondly you will need to unplug the amplifier and check the contacts of the sockets
Thank you fro sharing your knowledge to us.
What kind of solder do you sue on this kind of stuff I’m about to fix my mustang as well and fyi awesome vid man really helped me out
Hi Ethan 60/40 solder. Dont use lead free as mechanically its pants. Try to get as much of the original solder off as you can first with solder wick.
I've had one of these little things for close to four years. I probably don't have problems with it because I never remove the cable from the input jack.
My amp has been unplugged for 2 days. If those little charges come into contact with anything besides my finger will I get zapped? I was fiddling with the input jack and it fell into the cavity, easy fix but I dont know what no to touch!!!
Hi Tony, what not to touch is anything in the power supply sections so you 100% must remove the mains lead (aka line cord in the US) from the socket first, that's the most important thing. Secondly it's good practive not to touch anything in the power supply section whether plugged in or not. There is likely no charge left on the bigger capacitors (the can shaped things) but best not to take the chance. If you touch and they discharge through you you'll get no more than a tingle. However, your natural reaction will be to whip your hand out of the away and then you may cut it on something. If you touch something with it plugged in, and it's Live or Hot, then it's a different story and you might not be able to let go.
Hi, the little black plastic piece around my aux jack split in 2. What is that piece called and is it an easy switch out?
Hi Christine, looks like what is called a 3.5mm jack. Same sort of thing as your headphone socket on your phone. I need to have a look to see if you can get an exact replacement, there are two types, stereo and mono. You have a lovely singing voice, just watched your cover of When I'm Gone, full of soul.
Hi. Sorry but i dont khow who else to ask
I added a jack3.5 (for the headphones) input to my amp because i broke the other
I did it by soldering wires on the contacts on the circuit board of the old jack. But now i have buzz issues when i plug in my headphones...
Any advice?
Hi... My Mustang v2 lost the power feel of distortion what could be the reason could you please guess?
I use an 18" M to F cord that plugs into the amp and I just plug into that every time, so it takes that stress off the pcb board. I'd really like to know how to wire in a standard metal jack socket with wires, even if it means losing the footswitch. I never use it and don't gig so I don't need it.
mine cuts out real bad now does that mean I have to re-solder it or I need a new jack?
Hi, jack sockets rarely wear out unless you damage them, like kick the jack while it's plugged in or something so I'd suspect the soldering. A soldering iron's a good investment anyway.
@@Andrewausfa so you think the bord needs to be re soldered? I own a soldering iron but it seems like a B to take the amp apart
Horrible plastic input jacks.
My amp seems to lose a little power after a few minutes of playing and it starts to buzz when I play on clean channels. I read that this could also be the jack socket fault.
Hi, could be but it could be another dry joint anywhere on the board. Dry joints are caused by mechanical failure like the stress from sticking your jack lead in and out (and this amps input is poorly designed from that point of view) or the solder joint fails from continual thermal expansion and cooling around components that get hot, like resistors, transistors, IC regulators, valves/tubes etc that sort of thing. It"s a very hard problem to fault find hence the use of a magnifier, hair drier and freezer spray! I would suggest if you turn your amp on, no input, just leave it and it goes quiet after a few minutes, then you have a dry joint further along the signal path or you may have a component failing as it warms up. The latter may be catastrophic to your amp if it fails and takes other components out. The buzzing on clean may be unrelated. Cheers - Andrew
I have the same noise problem but when the guitars plugged in
It’s the only amp this ever happened to me before. It won’t work at all now. It’s so cheap I shouldn’t care but it’s made me mad because I bought it for my students to use. It sounded really good (surprisingly) but it lasted a short time and now nothing.
Very good, thanks
Could you PLEASE, PLEASE, show us how to do a line out either from the headphones or from the speaker??
Where did you get your replacement jack from and do you have a product number?
Hi William, I just resoldered the original jack socket. You can buy new generic ones from eBay, Amazon etc. which s all these are i.e. cheap. Just clean the legs before you solder them in with IPA or a light sandpaper, makes for a better joint. Cheers- Andrew
I have a Fender Mustang III and it started dropping volume when I set it beyond 5 in the master volume. I cleaned all potentiometers and even a technician changed the master volume pot but it keeps doing that. Can you help me?
@ david torres
i had volume fade on a crate & on the back of it
the efx. send/return jacks were corroded a bit on the flat metal "switch" leg. i never used it & didnt think about the signal path goes thru there. when its used, the plug will "break" the connection & re-route the signal thru the cable. so the corrosion was breaking the signal route & it stopped there. at higher volumes, the physical vibrations would cause movement to the metal switch leg & the electrical signal to start losing contact & re-contacting very fast. as the vibrations increased, the switch leg contact point was moving onto the corrosion and back off it. until it not making contact long enough to send a proper signal.
kinda like driving a car so fast that your only hitting the high spots in the road. and the high spots are corrosion !!!
I can't get my digital display to come on with Fender Mustang 3 amp. Any advice?
Hi Kristi, all I can advise is to carefully check the soldering if the state of mine was anything to go by. I only have this Mustang I I'm afraid. Obviously I don't know your experience so go carefully as there is high voltage inside.
Thanks. I know nothing about repairing amps. After further investigation I found information that the amp had been stored in a cold building for a year therefore, I believe moisture affected it. If you hold your head sideways you can see an glimpse of the selections.
Dude can you help me with my 2nd hand Mustang 3 v2??? It works but there is a horrible background buzz that almost drowns out the sound of my guitar. Turning the amp up just makes it worse. The courier who dropped it off slammed it down on the floor when he got it out of the van #idiot! Don't know if that could have done anything to cause this. How do I go about diagnosing it?? 🙏
Hi, sounds very much like there's some internal damage. It may be visible with your eyes but get a magnifying glass and check the tracks. Good luck!!
@Andrewausfa dude thankyou for your reply! :) luckily I think it's OK and it was my guitar cable that was causing the noise think the insulation was shot, it's LOADS quieter with a new cable only an audible fuzz on high gain presets. So happy with it these amps are fantastic! Managed to get the FUSE software and nearly 10,000 presets downloaded from an old forum post. If anything ever goes wrong with it I will be straight back to this video! ❤️
@@banksy444 That's great, I hate it when you go chasing your tail like that. Cable should be an easy repair. Yep shame Fender doesn't support these any more really, they're a great practice amp.
I'm really annoyed. I Che ked the spring in the input jack. It rises as the plug is inserted. So it seems there is good contact. Indeed a few solder points were cracked. I resoldered them. Reasdamled my Mustang 1 v2 and the jack still has intermittent contact.
Make sure the soldier has REALLY good contact with the PCB, I had to re-solder mine three times before I finally got it. The third time I used extra solder and got it in good.
I'm unable to get the back open because of the glue, a screwdriver doesn't fit and only leaves a dent in the wood
Mine are not cracked but still has a loose connect problem on my jack i have to push it to the side :(
Needs resoldering!!
@@Andrewausfa thank u so much for caring i dont understant these things but does that mean there is a disconnection on the card
seems overly complicated for what it is whats wrong with a kick ass power supply with a hefty transformer ! and a brute force discrete output stage ! the effects side of is cool though !
Exactly! I was quite amazed at what they packed in to so little. My main amp is an old HH thing that weighs a ton, this thing weighs a couple of bags of sugar. It's good for 20W per the manual so quite amazing how technology has moved on. Plus of course all the different sampled/emulated amplifiers you can 'use'. Get this as well...it connects via USB to a computer so you can programme your own tones. When I were a lad.......
@@Andrewausfatill I suppose thats progress at least its still an analogue thing guitar and amplifier !
where did u buy it?
Hi where did I buy what? The amp or the headphone sockets?
@@Andrewausfa headphone sockets
Снимите продолжение видео с проводами пожалуйста)))
Wires, from where and where to? Провода, откуда и куда?