I just picked up my first harness and shoes today. I'm gonna be at the gym for the next year hope to see the outside world after that... wish me luck I'll be here watching for tips and tricks. Love the videos and a new sub...
E.g. at 1:40 , I noticed both those nuts you placed in the flair we're acting annoying with clipping the draw to the wire, because they were swinging back into the crack before you clipped them. What i like to do in this situation is leave the racking biner and other nuts attached until *after* i clip a draw to the nut i just placed. The racking biner keeps the wire loop outside the crack and makes it easy to attach the draw. Doesn't waste any time.
one wonders if the thousands of cams likely put into that flake at the beginning is going to shear the whole thing off soon. looks hella friable near that hollow tip
I led this pitch yesterday and don't remember seeing the sketchy detached flake and jug below the crux lieback. Maybe someone trundled it? But I didn't watch this video before the climb, so it wasn't on my mind, and perhaps I somehow just didn't notice it. But that seems unlikely, it's pretty conspicuous in the video 😬
@@climbon3157 yes, I find the ocun gloves to sometimes get in the way for thinner hand jams. For that reason I usually prefer tape gloves. But the ocun gloves are better when the crack is jagged, because they protect the back of your hand better from spikes. Basically, they let you be more sloppy. And of course they're way easier to deal with than tape gloves, altho for tape gloves I use the Steph Davis technique that is pretty easy to make, and they can be reused by cutting the wrist strap after the first use.
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I just picked up my first harness and shoes today. I'm gonna be at the gym for the next year hope to see the outside world after that... wish me luck I'll be here watching for tips and tricks. Love the videos and a new sub...
Awesome belay point on that small volume like ledge, sick video dude, keep crushing
E.g. at 1:40 , I noticed both those nuts you placed in the flair we're acting annoying with clipping the draw to the wire, because they were swinging back into the crack before you clipped them. What i like to do in this situation is leave the racking biner and other nuts attached until *after* i clip a draw to the nut i just placed. The racking biner keeps the wire loop outside the crack and makes it easy to attach the draw. Doesn't waste any time.
Love the commentary! So real 😂
9:13 the beauty of small gear...
Yup, that lieback move always feels not so great because of those feet, despite being "only" 5.10 a/b
one wonders if the thousands of cams likely put into that flake at the beginning is going to shear the whole thing off soon. looks hella friable near that hollow tip
Yeah that thing looks like it's coming down the next freeze-thaw cycle zion gets.
I led this pitch yesterday and don't remember seeing the sketchy detached flake and jug below the crux lieback. Maybe someone trundled it? But I didn't watch this video before the climb, so it wasn't on my mind, and perhaps I somehow just didn't notice it. But that seems unlikely, it's pretty conspicuous in the video 😬
Thanks for posting! I've been curious about this pitch. What route did you use for the start?
Honestly, I'm not sure. I think it was "Gumby", which is a 10c sport line.
How do you like those gloves? I've been thinking about grabbing a pair. Do you use large or do they come snug?
Large. I'm not sure if I could even get a smaller set on my hands.
There's been some complaints about the thickness of those compared to the OR ones. Do you feel they ever become a problem for smaller jams?
Only ask because I am considering those. I have a pair of the OR ones now that are okay.
@@climbon3157 yes, I find the ocun gloves to sometimes get in the way for thinner hand jams. For that reason I usually prefer tape gloves. But the ocun gloves are better when the crack is jagged, because they protect the back of your hand better from spikes. Basically, they let you be more sloppy. And of course they're way easier to deal with than tape gloves, altho for tape gloves I use the Steph Davis technique that is pretty easy to make, and they can be reused by cutting the wrist strap after the first use.
What's that layback go at? Looked pretty burly.
10a