Have you ever applied Cerakote clear over gun blue? I built a new front gate for my driveway, hit it with a DA sander, wiped on some Oxpho Blue, then ran a bit of rattle can lacquer over it. It looks sweet. I just want the clear to be tough, and Cerakote appears to be some good stuff!
Thanks for all the knowledge you share with us. Would really like to see a tiger stripe stencil pattern on ar from start to finish. Got a bunch of stencils from you, kinda nervous about trying it though. Thx agian
I appreciate that. We want our industry to be healthy, and the easiest way for us to contribute to that is by putting out good information. We have an older one on the channel. It still applies. ruclips.net/video/YWVag_2EYcs/видео.html
@@BransonCerakote I grew up in southern and mid-MO and went to school in Springfield. Thanks for the video info about spraying Cerakote. The personalized logo is fun and funny.
Si está rociando la serie H, no la ponga en el horno entre la capa base y la transparente. Rocíe la base, cure al aire durante 25 minutos, luego rocíe el transparente. Déjalo reposar por otros 25 minutos, luego hornéalo todo junto. Si es transparente de curado al aire, hornee el proyecto, déjelo enfriar y luego rocíe el transparente. Deja el proyecto a un lado durante 5 días y listo.
Quick question.. with the clear coat, when I'm using H series cerakote, do I apply the clear coat after the item has been sprayed and in the oven 15 mins or so and not tacky? Or is it ok to do the clear coat after the whole cerakote H series has baked at 250° for 2 hours?
Sorry, just saw your question. Depends on which clear you are using. If it's the H series (I don't recommend it), then you do it all at tack, apply the clear, then bake hard. If it's C series clear, bake the H series hard, then spray the clear once it's cooled.
Hi, how do I use the clear with h series, do I apply it after it's been In the oven or apply it straight after i spray the h series then bake, thanks alot.
I don't think it would be a good choice. There are some UV stability, and heat resistance issues. If they are powder coated, I'd just use powder clear.
No. You have to start from scratch. Few tips with the clear. Make sure you're spraying at 30 psi. Open the fan all the way up. Set your volume by adding until you get a nice dense cloud. Don't spray the clear on the item so much as spray a cloud at it from about 18 inches away. Give it one wet pass and leave it alone.
Awesome video John. I have sprayed some clear over cerakoted pistol barrels in the past (can't really recommend it for a long term coating, but it holds up for the occasional shooter) but I haven't ever sprayed clear over a handgun slide. Do you clear all of your firearm parts or just when you think you will need it? What goes into that decision process?
If you are using the H series clear, don't flash it at all. Spray it, air cure it for 20 minutes, then spray the clear over the wet base coat. Air cure another 20 minutes, then bake.
If you get a chance can you do a tutorial on how to two tone pant a hand guard? Like red inside and grey outside? I love your videos by the way! Thanks for doing them.
Great video! Do you apply the clear coat directly without prior acetone cleaning and sand blasting if it is unpainted stainless steel? (Could I use the MC-161 if it fits my purpose?). Thank you!
Awesome video series! Been following along for about 3 months now and learning quite a bit! But I have a question- the 301 H-series matte armor clear requires a 9:1 mix ratio and I'm not sure how that rolls over to MLs on my graduation cylinder. Any tips? Thanks!
@@BransonCerakote the clear worked perfectly on my XDM 40 slide. But then I tried adding Gun Candy to it and it went all haywire. Thought maybe i had done the mix wrong. Now that i know for sure my mox ratio was on mayne i was to close to the rifle barrel. I 100% appreciate your time and advice. Definitely do not have any plans to do this a business, but man it's a ton of fun to coat my own stuff! Thank you and best of luck
Very delayed in response as still learning all the tricks of the trade. Very different from commercial and industrial paint/coatings. I use small measuring cups like what comes childrens medicine or dayquill or the like. They can be ordered cheap in bulk on line
It's not. it's about like C series as far as durability goes. It can, but it would have to go on pretty thin. The clear really needs a texture to bite onto.
Hello. I have a black M9A3 that I want to be polished to look like an Inox 92 but satin not mirror finish. I've read in the comments that you highly recommended the MC series over the H, but at one point you wrote that the video was old and that now formulas have changed and that you essentially spray H clear series. So my question is : if this M9A3 was your gun with which series would you coat the frame, the slide, the barrel and little pieces (extractor, hammer, slide lock, disassembly lever, trigger bar, safety lever) ? Thank you 👍🏻
If you are doing single color, I'd spray the base coat, let it air cure for approximately 20 minutes, then spray either of the H series clears over the wet base. Let that air cure for an additional 20 minutes, then bake. If you have polymer and metal parts, tack them all at 180 degrees before moving the metal to the hotter oven.
Can you use this over the top of Hydro-dip film? If so is there any prep required? I'm looking camo an old 12ga and am concerned adhesion and durability.
We've never done Hydrdipping before, so I really don't have an answer for you. I'd assume you'd be good to go. We've sprayed MC157 over cured Cerakote months later and had it stick successfully. Just make sure the surface is degreased.
I have a very very custom rifle coming in soon that only requires a clear coat. I definitely do not want to try to disassemble it due to the fact it is a super custom firearm. Have you ever clear-coated an entire firearm fully assembled how were the results. What do you recommend. Honestly I would have turned this firearm away however I donated a cerakote job to a disabled veterans charity event and this is the person that purchased it for $400 so I can't very well say no... thank you for all that you do and for your responses
I clear coat assembled most of the time actually. Best advice, don't go heavy or it will run. Take your time so that you get into all the little areas. The one bad thing about clear, if you miss an area, it will pop out because it will be flat when everything else is shiny.
I have a vintage Winchester (year 1932) model 54, I wanted to cerakote it to preserve it but then It'd lose original looks, can I apply a clear coat directly? It would protect it and preseve the antique looks.
We've polished them. Normally they don't need anything after that. If you're worried about corrosion, just shoot a light layer of air cure clear on it. Make sure you plug the chamber, and tape off anywhere you don't want the clear to get.
I have a stainless gun I'm working on, and we all know what can happen to stainless after hitting the range. Would it be okay to just use the clear coat over the gun? I want that bare metal look ... Thank you keep up the good work
Great video. I have a question. I used the 156 with gun candy powder and sprayed at 30 psi to paint my ar receiver, but on even a minimum spray it starts leaking dripping I dont know why. I spray color cerakote no problem, but this clear with candy drips. Any advice ?
It's because the pearls are heavy. Instead of one good, wet coat, turn the volume down and give it 8-10 coats. Just keep an eye on it to make sure it's not to the point of running.
With clear, you have to lay it on when it's wet, meaning, you can't come back once it's set up and add more. It will flake off. Just keep spraying until you get the effect you want, but not so much that it runs.
I’m planning Cerakoting my sig stormtrooper white with Gun candy nova using mc 156 clear would I have to wait for the base to fully bake and also do I have to bake the clear
Things have changed a little since this video came out. Use the H series clear. Spray the white, let it hang for 25 minutes, then spray the gun candy over it. Let it hang for another 25 minutes, then bake it all together.
If the H underneath is already cured, it won't stick. The only way to get H series clear to adhere is to spray a basecoat color, let it sit for about 20 minutes, then spray the H clear over it. Let that sit for an additional 20 minutes, then bake. If the base is already cured, then your only option is MC clear.
Although this video is about clear coat, I was curious if Cerakote is at risk to get lint or any other particles stuck to the piece you’re working on (Color, or with clear applied).. I see guys in auto paint shops wearing jump suits and using down-draft booths.. Any tips or info to help prevent that from happening? Thanks again for the great vid! 👍🏻🙏🏻💯
I can't remember ever having that issue. My booth has a huge fan which keeps it pretty clean. I wear jeans and a t-shirt, or shorts and a t-shirt, and haven't had an issue with fibers coming from there either.
If it's C high gloss, no. If it's C series Matte, don't shake it or you'll end up with air bubbles. Roll it back and forth on a benchtop to incorporate the matte additive. Once it's mixed in, the whole bottle will be milky. H series clears have to have hardener added, and have to be shaken.
I have a question. I'm cerakoting a carbon rifle stock. Should I apply the H series and fully cure then clear with MC -157. Or should I apply the H series color then apply H-301 on top of the wet color and then fully cure? Which would be the most durable?
Great video again I've used the clear once and it had bubbles in in found out later you don't need to shake it! My bad 🤗 lol but I will practice more! Do you have an idea on when you might do that (camo) with the hearts ♥️ or the 🌺?
I'm going to try and get it done on Tuesday. I just bought a hi-point poly that I'm going to use as a pistol version of the carcass. It's like a boat anchor. I got it cheap, and will use it for nothing more than videos. I have a project I need to get done on Monday, which is always a half day for me, but I'll do it Tuesday.
Branson Cerakote hahaha ya hi-points are good for one thing and it's not shooting lol that's awesome I can't wait to see it! I'm waiting to order coating and stencils to see how the stencils come out
Question. On a raw lower. Polished. I assume you would need to degrees it and make sure it is free of oils and all still. But still do not need to sand or rough it up?
Yes to both. The degreasing removes any oils used during the manufacturing process. The sand blasting is to give the surface the correct etch profile so that when the coating levels during the air cure step, it has something to bond to.
@@brucehirsch5437 I may have misunderstood what you were asking. If you want to keep the raw aluminum look, then just degrease and clear coat. I thought you were spraying Cerakote on it, in which case it has to be sanded.
No. The high gloss doesn't need anything, just strain and go. The matte has the additive that makes it matte, and has to be re-incorporated in. If you shake it, you can get air bubbles that later come out in the product. Just roll the bottle back in forth on a bench top until it's mixed.
@@BransonCerakote Is it possible to remove air bubbles if they appear like what is done with traditional epoxies or Hi-pac coatings with small amounts of warmer air? I.e. heat gun on low or blow dryer?
My wife did a garden project where she turned some stainless steel bowls into mushrooms. She rattle canned them, and I sprayed C series clear over them once they dried. They've been outside for about 8 months and the clear has been doing fine. That's the only non-Cerakote project I can think of off the top of my head.
Depends on which series you want to use. If it's single color H series, spray the base, then let it sit for about 20 minutes. Spray the H series clear over it (called wet on wet), let it sit for an additional 20 minutes, then bake like normal. If it's multiple colors of H or C series, then you bake it all the way out, let it cool, then spray C series clear over it. Set it aside for a week, and good to go. You can't use H series clear over tacked out Cerakote. It won't stick.
I noticed in the pics at the end that the tumbler looked rough as in the finish. Do you send them out like that? or do you do any sanding with fine sand paper so it's a even smooth surface? If you dont can this be done? I would want a smooth surface
I see what you're talking about, but it is smooth. I took those pics about 3 hours after the cup was done. The haziness goes away once it fully dries. I've never tried sanding the clear.
Do you add anything else to the clear coat like hardner a thinner or is it just the clear coat as it is and do you have to oven cure it cause nothing really sticks to cerakote once it’s cured already if I’m not mistaken
Go to the dollar store and buy a package of cheap tooth brushes. Mix up your red, and put it in a dish. Dip the toothbrush in it, and from a foot or so away, flick the red onto the piece. The iwata LPH80.
If I use mc157 with black cherry gun candy can I just spray over black anodize for my base. If yes. What about prep on anodize. Thanks for the help. Great videos also,learned a lot. Keepem coming.
Branson Cerakote thank you so much! I've noticed people saying acetone eats plastic but it must be only certain types as some acetone is sold in stores in plastic bottles. Typically for nail salon type applications. As long as the cup holds up to cleaning I should be good for the clear C series then. Thanks.
Does anyone know if you can apply micro slick H series over any other color than black?? And how much would it discolor or turn black your original applied color coating????
Depends. If it's C series clear, you want it to be fully baked out first. If it's H series clear, it's preferred to do it wet on wet, but that's not an option if you are doing layers (camo), so you have to tack first.
I just finished an AR lower, (the skull face on the magwell of the Sharps Bros the Jack), with a battle worn finish in air cure. It came out great but now I wish that I used the over cure. (this was my first go around). My question is, I have some air cure matte clear but could I use H matte clear instead?
Hi John, sorry to revive an old thread, but have you ever tried baking the c-series clear? Ive hears "iffy" things about the H300 series clear, but you have success with the air cure method. I was just wondering if you have ever experimented baking it to cut the cure time down at all, for when you don't have a week to wait for it. Thanks!
Never tried it, but I do get that question enough to add it to the list. We are swamped right now with the holidays (all of the recent videos are a couple of months old), but I'll try to fit it in soon.
so... I called cerakote and they told me that the clear was not designed to go over cerakote. I was specifically told that their is only a 70% success rate of doing that. You have obviously figured out how to have a high success rate. What are your thoughts on this?
I agree ... I have really not had any issues either. I use it on every single mug and almost all of the vaporizers I do. I use the same (156 and 157) as BC does. I think the success rate comes with getting a good H coat and cure to begin with and obviously not laying it on too thick ... the air pressure, I believe is the trick to that.
I sprayed the Mc-161 matte clear over a shotgun that I buffed and polished trying to keep the shine. But once sprayed it looks foggy I guess you could say do you know why or have you ever had this problem. My first time using it. Thanks for all the helpful videos!!
Great instructional Video. I have an old Motor Cycle I'm in the process of painting and I'm thinking of Cerakoting the Fenders and Gas Tank. The fenders are are currently chrome with lots of rust so I was thinking of using an Heat resistant primer before I use the H Series and place them in the oven. Has anyone tried placing Cerakote over a primer? I've sanded the chrome to give it some thing to bind to. I hope this will give me a better sub-straight than the pit marked surface. If this works I'm going to use the Clear Coat that is being demonstrated here (160 Clear). Does anyone know if this Clear Coat will hold up against Gas spills on the tank?
Thank you very much. I wouldn't recommend priming first. I have never personally tried it, but I know Cerakote has to bond with a bare surface. I've done a set of motorcycle tins, and had no issue with going right on bare metal. Cerakote probably won't bond to any other type of coating. I do know it won't bond to other Cerakote if it's a layer that has already been hardened. You may want to contact NIC and ask them some questions. I know the Cerakote in general holds up well to chemicals and solvents. I have never really tested the clear coat. I'd ask them about which clear would be best for that application. The big thing I found out with my MC project, when I was clear coating, was to let the clear cure for several days before assembly. Also, make sure you plug any holes before shooting the clear.
If you apply Cerakote over a primer, the Cerakote will flake off. Cerakote needs the little ridges from blasting to grab ahold of. If you are wanting something for heat protection why not try C Series?
Hey John, great videos! Have a question... how long after you Cerakote a part can you apply Cerakote clear? In other words if I have a project that was Cerakoted a month ago... Can I apply clear on it now without any adverse reactions?
Thank you for asking/answering this question. Exactly what I was looking for. I imagine if I keep the tumbler in a closed, very clean container should be good to go. I just did my first tumbler and want to clear coat it now...so I need to get some ordered...excellent planning on my part...lol...thanks again. Love the videos...
Great videos. Do you know if you can spray MC161 over cured (several months old) MC161? I ended up with a dry edge that looks pretty average and I'd like to go over it.
Not from our experience. The couple of times I've tried spraying clear over cured clear, it has looked bad. I've never tried lightly sanding it. If you decide to try sanding, please let me know how it turns out.
Which is your preference between MC 157 and 161? I know the 157 is supposed to be a lower viscosity, but generally which one is the more preferred matte clear? (For tumblers etc, not firearms)
It just gives an extra layer of protection. I especially like it for pistols that get a lot of holster wear, or truck guns that get a lot of abuse. I've honestly gotten to the point where I just spray it on almost everything. It does tend to even things out, i.e. the polymer frame with the metal slide. The matte barely has any sheen at all, about like stock blueing. The gloss has quite a bit.
Not sure. I've only sprayed the matte, and the high gloss. There is some variation depending on what the colors are underneath also. Some colors have more pigmentation already (Prison Pink, Electric Yellow) and are already pretty glossy. On a lot of surfaces, it adds depth to the color scheme.
Branson, new to Cerakote and just found your videos. Couple questions... Thinking about doing a set of truck wheels with Cerakote Glacier black C-7600 and am wondering if I can apply a clear coat over this to make it a really gloss black finish? If so, how long should I wait after applying the 7600 before applying the clear? Also, wondering if it is possible to do a black chrome using a combination Cerakote products. Is it possible to "thin" the Glacier black with MC-160 and spray over chrome? If so, any tips on prepping the chrome?
Have you sprayed this on just a stainless or nickel gun for protection? If so can you tell it's on there or does it just look like the original finish? I'm a little hesitant to spray it on a nice finish gun. If you had to remove C series, is it like H where you you have to blast it off? Or can you rub it down with steel wool like microslick before it fully cures if you had a run? Sorry lots of questions
Depending on the color, white comes to mind, there can be a slight difference between the final shade on different materials. I did a Glock in snow white and the slide was just a shade off from the frame. The clear tends to even things out of they are just a bit off. I have not sprayed it on an original finish, plain metal barrel. I just haven't had a request for that. I honestly couldn't tell you what you'd end up with if you steel wooled C series. I've just always sand blasted everything. If you get a run, all you need to do is let it get tack free, then sand blast it. At that stage in the curing, it comes off really easily at about 50 psi. No worries. I don't mind.
Sorry, misunderstood you. Honestly, I don't get runs in the clear. It needs to go on pretty thin. Occasionally you will get a drop that forms at the bottom of an item, and the only trick with that is to let it dry for a few hours then rub it off with your finger. It's not a big deal. It basically will just crumble off. If you get an actual run, you may want to email NIC and ask for some guidance. They are really good about giving tech support. I've just always had it go on really smooth.
I bought mine on eBay from a guy in IA. BAAAAAAAD customer service. The other guy that builds them on eBay has a pretty legit reputation. I haven't dealt with him, so I'm hesitant to recommend him, but if I was in the market, that's probably who I'd go with. His eBay store is tedsfabrication. It seems like all of the custom builders follow pretty much the same design.
If I want to use the clear over cerakote, do I need to fully cure the Cerakote or just flash it off for 8 mins? What if it's sprayed over fully cured Cerakote? I assume it won't adhere. Thanks in advance
I can only tell you what I do. I use it over H series, fully cured. I use C series clear coat, so it needs a few days to fully cure, which obviously adds a few days to your project. I had someone post a comment that they had called NIC and was told that NIC had not had a good success rate with spraying clear over cerakote. I personally have had a 100% success rate. I've never had an issue. Again, I can only tell you what I have experience with.
Branson Cerakote have you had success using c-160 clear over c series base? I’m wanting to do a gloss clear finish over gunmetal c series on a set of wheels. NIC recommended spraying on the clear while the base was still tacky if I were to try. That sounds sketchy to me. Alternatively, have you ever tried to tint the clear coat?
Hi John I noticed your spray nozzle is set for horizontal pattern, I was setting mine to vertical because it seams less waste on typical longer rifle parts, I do air rifles , do you change your pattern when doing similar parts or stay with the horizontal pattern and if you just use the horizontal pattern is there a reason Thanks again Mike E
We only spray horizontally. Habit, that's the way Cerakote trained, and seems to be easier to get an even coat with just allowing things to hang by going up and down.
@@BransonCerakote I will try that out , Question on the Micro slick Can I apply the micro slick on a un blasted degreased surface I wanted to try to coat the inside of a air rifles tube for moving parts & seal
I just get them from ebay. The only thing to be careful about is, there are some sellers that have filters where the mesh doesn't go all the way to the tip of the cone. You end up losing a couple of mil. I just look very carefully at the pics.
Great vid. I've put the C157 matte on a few items and really like the added protection of it. I'd like to see that vid on the oven cure clear and see if it's more of a flat finish. The matte to me is just a little glossy but not bad. Thanks for sharing Branson.
That's an older video. When we made it, MC156/157 was the best option as far as they did good at both abrasion and UV, but not great at either. They've changed the formulas a couple of times since then. We use more H series clear than anything else now, but do use the air cure for going over multiple color projects. Size of the project doesn't really matter.
@@BransonCerakote Thanks for the response! When using H-series clear over H-series color, do you just tack out the color before applying the clear or do you do a full cure, then clear/cure?
@@mattpoirot2492 With H series, you don't want to bake it at all before putting the clear on. That's why it's basically a one and done clear. You spray the single color H on, let it air cure for about 20 minutes, then spray the clear over it (wet on wet). Let it air cure for another 20 minutes, then bake normally. If it's baked at all, even just tacked, the clear will likely fail. That.s why you have to use air cure clear over multicolor projects.
Good question, and not something I've ever talked about in the videos. That's one of those steps I just do, but never think about. I searched for a while for a way to hang tumblers for spraying. NIC uses inflatable plumbing pressure test bulbs (at least they did the last time I was out there), but I found that they are expensive, and don't last more than a few months. I tried a couple of other techniques, and just wasn't happy with them. What I finally came up with was the spring clip method. The only draw back is, they use friction between little rubber pads and the tumbler. Every once in a while the clip would slip in the oven, and when I took them out, they'd be hanging by one clip. I was always worried I'd have one fail completely, and end up ruined in the bottom of the oven. So, I started baking them for about 15 minutes, then popping them off the clips and baking them upside down on a board for the remainder of the time. After they finish baking and cooling, I just lay them on a piece of scrap cardboard, and spray them on the turntable. The other reason is, if you do get just a little too much clear coat on, it will run to the bottom. If the cup is upside down, the bottom is your taped rim. Peel the tape off, and you still have a clean finish.
Just thought of something else I've never covered. Just a personal preference if you will, but I sort of have to spray the cups upright. I'm not very artistic believe it or not, and I need to look at the tumbler the way it's going to be oriented when it's sitting on the table. My brain hurts when I start trying to put the idea in my head on an upside down cup, lol.
Hey mate. Have you tried this over the glacier series on any hot parts like an exhaust? Got guys asking me for a gloss black finish on their motorbikes and I use the glacier black now but it's matte. They want gloss so I bought the high gloss clear going to give it a try soon
Have you ever applied Cerakote clear over gun blue? I built a new front gate for my driveway, hit it with a DA sander, wiped on some Oxpho Blue, then ran a bit of rattle can lacquer over it. It looks sweet. I just want the clear to be tough, and Cerakote appears to be some good stuff!
The Cerakote clear really doesn't do very well with UV. It would fade after a few months.
Thanks for all the knowledge you share with us. Would really like to see a tiger stripe stencil pattern on ar from start to finish. Got a bunch of stencils from you, kinda nervous about trying it though. Thx agian
I appreciate that. We want our industry to be healthy, and the easiest way for us to contribute to that is by putting out good information. We have an older one on the channel. It still applies. ruclips.net/video/YWVag_2EYcs/видео.html
Here's a link to Vietnam Tiger, just in case. ruclips.net/video/afUUm24xn3E/видео.html
I love your logo. People usually don't realize how bad it's gotten with all the pirate ships roaming Table Rock Lake.
LOL. We cheated. The local school district is the Pirates, I've always had facial hair, and I almost always wear sunglasses.
@@BransonCerakote I grew up in southern and mid-MO and went to school in Springfield. Thanks for the video info about spraying Cerakote. The personalized logo is fun and funny.
Pre calienta la pieza para aplicar ceracoat clear hight temparature?
Si está rociando la serie H, no la ponga en el horno entre la capa base y la transparente. Rocíe la base, cure al aire durante 25 minutos, luego rocíe el transparente. Déjalo reposar por otros 25 minutos, luego hornéalo todo junto. Si es transparente de curado al aire, hornee el proyecto, déjelo enfriar y luego rocíe el transparente. Deja el proyecto a un lado durante 5 días y listo.
Would it be a problem if we use an oven ?Does it dry faster?
You don't want to use an oven with any air cure Cerakote product. It becomes brittle if it doesn't cure correctly.
@@BransonCerakote Is there an early drying method
@@ahmetsenturk3389 No, you just have to let it sit.
Thanks for the video! Can you spray air-cured clearcoat over an air-cured C-series Cerakote base color without adhesion issues?
Yep. Just make sure it's fully cured.
Love the videos! keep it up!
Thank you very much!
What's difference between the Mc 157 and 161 matte clear? Still ok to go over a rifle with h series coating?
I can't remember the differences between those two, but on a gun, 161 will be fine. Good to go over H as long as the H is hard baked.
Quick question.. with the clear coat, when I'm using H series cerakote, do I apply the clear coat after the item has been sprayed and in the oven 15 mins or so and not tacky? Or is it ok to do the clear coat after the whole cerakote H series has baked at 250° for 2 hours?
Sorry, just saw your question. Depends on which clear you are using. If it's the H series (I don't recommend it), then you do it all at tack, apply the clear, then bake hard. If it's C series clear, bake the H series hard, then spray the clear once it's cooled.
I would think you would want to spray the bottom of cup first then do sides to avoid that overspray. No?
It goes on pretty thin. We've never had an issue.
How long after your color coat of cerakote do you have to wait to spray the clear
With the C series, you just need to wait until it cools from the oven.
Hi, how do I use the clear with h series, do I apply it after it's been In the oven or apply it straight after i spray the h series then bake, thanks alot.
We only use C series clear. You bake the H all the way, let it cool, then spray. The clear has to sit for @7 days.
Can you simply use cerakote clear coat directly on bare polished aluminum?
They have a clear that goes on polished aluminum. The code is MC5100.
Can I use the clear cerakote on a powder coat part like exhaust tips ?
I don't think it would be a good choice. There are some UV stability, and heat resistance issues. If they are powder coated, I'd just use powder clear.
Excellent videos John.. a ton of help!
Question..wht use air dry clear instead of oven cured?
The oven cured has a lot of variables that can go wrong. The air cure is simple. More of a easier to deal with situation.
Dunno. I've just always used the air cure.
Turns out it's really easy to get runs with this clear... Any suggestions on fixing it? Can it be sanded down or anything?
No. You have to start from scratch.
Few tips with the clear. Make sure you're spraying at 30 psi. Open the fan all the way up. Set your volume by adding until you get a nice dense cloud. Don't spray the clear on the item so much as spray a cloud at it from about 18 inches away. Give it one wet pass and leave it alone.
Awesome video John. I have sprayed some clear over cerakoted pistol barrels in the past (can't really recommend it for a long term coating, but it holds up for the occasional shooter) but I haven't ever sprayed clear over a handgun slide. Do you clear all of your firearm parts or just when you think you will need it? What goes into that decision process?
All depends on the customer.
I assume the cerakote before the clear would only be flash cured 8-10 min?
If you are using the H series clear, don't flash it at all. Spray it, air cure it for 20 minutes, then spray the clear over the wet base coat. Air cure another 20 minutes, then bake.
Cool
If you get a chance can you do a tutorial on how to two tone pant a hand guard? Like red inside and grey outside? I love your videos by the way! Thanks for doing them.
I've got it on the list. Just trying to find the time! lol
Great video! Do you apply the clear coat directly without prior acetone cleaning and sand blasting if it is unpainted stainless steel? (Could I use the MC-161 if it fits my purpose?). Thank you!
You can. You just need to do several light coats, and keep an eye out for too much buildup, which will make it run.
Awesome video series! Been following along for about 3 months now and learning quite a bit! But I have a question- the 301 H-series matte armor clear requires a 9:1 mix ratio and I'm not sure how that rolls over to MLs on my graduation cylinder. Any tips? Thanks!
I've never used he H series clear, but all Cerakote uses the same ratios measurement. It will be 9 mil of clear to 1 mil of hardener.
@@BransonCerakote the clear worked perfectly on my XDM 40 slide. But then I tried adding Gun Candy to it and it went all haywire. Thought maybe i had done the mix wrong. Now that i know for sure my mox ratio was on mayne i was to close to the rifle barrel. I 100% appreciate your time and advice. Definitely do not have any plans to do this a business, but man it's a ton of fun to coat my own stuff! Thank you and best of luck
@@brandengooch4101 Glad to help.
Very delayed in response as still learning all the tricks of the trade. Very different from commercial and industrial paint/coatings.
I use small measuring cups like what comes childrens medicine or dayquill or the like. They can be ordered cheap in bulk on line
Two questions:
1. Is it as hard as normal Cerakote?
2. Can it be applied over bluing?
It's not. it's about like C series as far as durability goes. It can, but it would have to go on pretty thin. The clear really needs a texture to bite onto.
Have you ever sprayed mc-5100 over H series cerakote say dont do it?
I've never used the 5100. The only clear I've ever used is MC-156 and MC-157. I've never had an issue with either of those over Cerakote.
Hello. I have a black M9A3 that I want to be polished to look like an Inox 92 but satin not mirror finish.
I've read in the comments that you highly recommended the MC series over the H, but at one point you wrote that the video was old and that now formulas have changed and that you essentially spray H clear series.
So my question is : if this M9A3 was your gun with which series would you coat the frame, the slide, the barrel and little pieces (extractor, hammer, slide lock, disassembly lever, trigger bar, safety lever) ? Thank you 👍🏻
If you are doing single color, I'd spray the base coat, let it air cure for approximately 20 minutes, then spray either of the H series clears over the wet base. Let that air cure for an additional 20 minutes, then bake. If you have polymer and metal parts, tack them all at 180 degrees before moving the metal to the hotter oven.
Can you use this over the top of Hydro-dip film? If so is there any prep required? I'm looking camo an old 12ga and am concerned adhesion and durability.
We've never done Hydrdipping before, so I really don't have an answer for you. I'd assume you'd be good to go. We've sprayed MC157 over cured Cerakote months later and had it stick successfully. Just make sure the surface is degreased.
I have a very very custom rifle coming in soon that only requires a clear coat. I definitely do not want to try to disassemble it due to the fact it is a super custom firearm. Have you ever clear-coated an entire firearm fully assembled how were the results. What do you recommend. Honestly I would have turned this firearm away however I donated a cerakote job to a disabled veterans charity event and this is the person that purchased it for $400 so I can't very well say no... thank you for all that you do and for your responses
I clear coat assembled most of the time actually.
Best advice, don't go heavy or it will run. Take your time so that you get into all the little areas. The one bad thing about clear, if you miss an area, it will pop out because it will be flat when everything else is shiny.
Was just about to ask this! I have the gun disassembled but feel the smaller parts would be easier to spray put back together.
Is there an advantage to applying the clear coat for more protection of the color that has been applied previously?
There is some.
I have a vintage Winchester (year 1932) model 54, I wanted to cerakote it to preserve it but then It'd lose original looks, can I apply a clear coat directly?
It would protect it and preseve the antique looks.
Yes. It just needs to be degreased first. You'll want to use MC-157.
Hey John, Question have you done anything with highly polished actions on a shotgun etc. any prep recommendations?
We've polished them. Normally they don't need anything after that. If you're worried about corrosion, just shoot a light layer of air cure clear on it. Make sure you plug the chamber, and tape off anywhere you don't want the clear to get.
I have a stainless gun I'm working on, and we all know what can happen to stainless after hitting the range. Would it be okay to just use the clear coat over the gun? I want that bare metal look ... Thank you keep up the good work
It will help, but the clear will have to go on pretty thin because it really needs a rough surface to bite onto.
Would that be for all cerakote?
What harbor freight gun do you use for clears?
Whichever one we can get with a tip smaller than a .2 and a metal cup. I buy a lot off of ebay and amazon also. Just depends on where I can find them.
Is this applied after a short “Tac-Out” or after a full hard bake?
Full bake, as long as you are using air cure clear.
@@BransonCerakote what about the cerakote clear bake?
@@ronmcintosh1614 I've never used it, but I've heard about a lot of adhesion issues.
Great video. I have a question. I used the 156 with gun candy powder and sprayed at 30 psi to paint my ar receiver, but on even a minimum spray it starts leaking dripping I dont know why. I spray color cerakote no problem, but this clear with candy drips. Any advice ?
It's because the pearls are heavy. Instead of one good, wet coat, turn the volume down and give it 8-10 coats. Just keep an eye on it to make sure it's not to the point of running.
Thank you and how long should I wait between coats ?
With clear, you have to lay it on when it's wet, meaning, you can't come back once it's set up and add more. It will flake off. Just keep spraying until you get the effect you want, but not so much that it runs.
I’m planning Cerakoting my sig stormtrooper white with Gun candy nova using mc 156 clear would I have to wait for the base to fully bake and also do I have to bake the clear
Things have changed a little since this video came out. Use the H series clear. Spray the white, let it hang for 25 minutes, then spray the gun candy over it. Let it hang for another 25 minutes, then bake it all together.
@@BransonCerakote I really appreciate it thank you for the response ur the best
Awesome man great video. On what surface would you use H300 and H301 amor clear
I've never tried those. The MC156/157 duo has the best combo of UV and abrasion resistance.
@@BransonCerakote great thanks for the advise. I ordered two stencils from off your website çant wait to receive them all the best
@@glynecollymore5569 We appreciate your business! Send us pics when it's done.
Do you have to bake the clear coat at all?
Not the MC series. You do bake the Armor clear.
Have you ever flash cured h-300 high gloss over other h or e series ? Was hoping to add more gloss to black motocross brake calipers etc.
If the H underneath is already cured, it won't stick. The only way to get H series clear to adhere is to spray a basecoat color, let it sit for about 20 minutes, then spray the H clear over it. Let that sit for an additional 20 minutes, then bake. If the base is already cured, then your only option is MC clear.
Although this video is about clear coat, I was curious if Cerakote is at risk to get lint or any other particles stuck to the piece you’re working on (Color, or with clear applied).. I see guys in auto paint shops wearing jump suits and using down-draft booths.. Any tips or info to help prevent that from happening? Thanks again for the great vid!
👍🏻🙏🏻💯
I can't remember ever having that issue. My booth has a huge fan which keeps it pretty clean. I wear jeans and a t-shirt, or shorts and a t-shirt, and haven't had an issue with fibers coming from there either.
Does the clearcoat needs to be shaken like the regular colors.
If it's C high gloss, no. If it's C series Matte, don't shake it or you'll end up with air bubbles. Roll it back and forth on a benchtop to incorporate the matte additive. Once it's mixed in, the whole bottle will be milky. H series clears have to have hardener added, and have to be shaken.
@@BransonCerakote thank you for your time.
@@manuelgarza969 Any time.
I have a question. I'm cerakoting a carbon rifle stock. Should I apply the H series and fully cure then clear with MC -157. Or should I apply the H series color then apply H-301 on top of the wet color and then fully cure? Which would be the most durable?
Probably the H series clear.
I have one rifle I won't cerakote, as it is one I painted with son's assistance. Will cerakote clear coat protect the paint from chipping?
It should. I'd recommend the C series.
On the computer series does the paint needs to be dry, cured, or tacky to spray the clear coat .
With the C series clear, you want it fully cured.
@@BransonCerakote thank you for your quick response. I really like your work and videos, keep up the good work.
Great video again I've used the clear once and it had bubbles in in found out later you don't need to shake it! My bad 🤗 lol but I will practice more! Do you have an idea on when you might do that (camo) with the hearts ♥️ or the 🌺?
I'm going to try and get it done on Tuesday. I just bought a hi-point poly that I'm going to use as a pistol version of the carcass. It's like a boat anchor. I got it cheap, and will use it for nothing more than videos. I have a project I need to get done on Monday, which is always a half day for me, but I'll do it Tuesday.
Branson Cerakote hahaha ya hi-points are good for one thing and it's not shooting lol that's awesome I can't wait to see it! I'm waiting to order coating and stencils to see how the stencils come out
Question. On a raw lower. Polished. I assume you would need to degrees it and make sure it is free of oils and all still. But still do not need to sand or rough it up?
Yes to both. The degreasing removes any oils used during the manufacturing process. The sand blasting is to give the surface the correct etch profile so that when the coating levels during the air cure step, it has something to bond to.
@@BransonCerakote ok. Was hoping to clear coat my raw lower. Probably will just polish it then.
@@brucehirsch5437 I may have misunderstood what you were asking. If you want to keep the raw aluminum look, then just degrease and clear coat. I thought you were spraying Cerakote on it, in which case it has to be sanded.
Morning John great video..Question: do you shake the clear like we do with any Cerakote colors ?
No. The high gloss doesn't need anything, just strain and go. The matte has the additive that makes it matte, and has to be re-incorporated in. If you shake it, you can get air bubbles that later come out in the product. Just roll the bottle back in forth on a bench top until it's mixed.
@@BransonCerakote Is it possible to remove air bubbles if they appear like what is done with traditional epoxies or Hi-pac coatings with small amounts of warmer air? I.e. heat gun on low or blow dryer?
@@platinumrayo6322 I doubt it. Once it sets, it's set.
John, have you ever sprayed clear cerakote over paint of coating other than cerakote? How did it turn out?
My wife did a garden project where she turned some stainless steel bowls into mushrooms. She rattle canned them, and I sprayed C series clear over them once they dried. They've been outside for about 8 months and the clear has been doing fine.
That's the only non-Cerakote project I can think of off the top of my head.
Hello, did you use automotive base? Or was this whole job done using cerakote products?
All Cerakote.
hi to apply clear coat on your color do you have to tec it out then apply clear or do you have to bake it out then spray clear on it
Depends on which series you want to use. If it's single color H series, spray the base, then let it sit for about 20 minutes. Spray the H series clear over it (called wet on wet), let it sit for an additional 20 minutes, then bake like normal. If it's multiple colors of H or C series, then you bake it all the way out, let it cool, then spray C series clear over it. Set it aside for a week, and good to go.
You can't use H series clear over tacked out Cerakote. It won't stick.
@@BransonCerakote thanks for your help
How good would it worked on a dirtbike frame would it hold up for a year +....?
It will fade pretty bad. The clear isn't very UV stable.
I noticed in the pics at the end that the tumbler looked rough as in the finish. Do you send them out like that? or do you do any sanding with fine sand paper so it's a even smooth surface? If you dont can this be done? I would want a smooth surface
I see what you're talking about, but it is smooth. I took those pics about 3 hours after the cup was done. The haziness goes away once it fully dries.
I've never tried sanding the clear.
If high gloss clear is sprayed over glacier black would it come out looking like a gloss black automotive paint?
Haven't tried it. Best advice I could give you is to spray a test piece.
Do you add anything else to the clear coat like hardner a thinner or is it just the clear coat as it is and do you have to oven cure it cause nothing really sticks to cerakote once it’s cured already if I’m not mistaken
We use mc156/mc157. It's an air cure, and sticks fine. We've clear coated hundreds of items without an issue.
Can metallic flakes be added to creakote air dry .
Yes. Just be careful how thick you put it on. If it's layered too thick it will sag. We have a few gun candy videos on here that are air dry clear.
@@BransonCerakote thank you very much for your quick response.
I’m using the MC156 and MC157 on dirt bike parts and I’m having issues with runs. Do u think my fluid knob is turned too far out?
Probably. Also, make sure you spray from about 10-12 inches away at 30 psi.
Have you clear coated a stainless or nickle gun before? If so can you tell it's been coated or look normal?
Never have.
hey have u done blood spatter? I have a customer asking for it and looking for ideas.. also what are your favorite spray guns?
Go to the dollar store and buy a package of cheap tooth brushes. Mix up your red, and put it in a dish. Dip the toothbrush in it, and from a foot or so away, flick the red onto the piece.
The iwata LPH80.
If I use mc157 with black cherry gun candy can I just spray over black anodize for my base. If yes. What about prep on anodize. Thanks for the help. Great videos also,learned a lot. Keepem coming.
It should work fine. All you need to do is degrease it. I've never done it, but let us know how it turns out.
It turned out great,I'll send some pics just as soon as I figure out how. Thanks.
@@declay44mag32 Cool. If you send them to info@bransoncerakote.com, we'll put them at the end of a video.
Thanks I appreciate that!
Does the hlvp gun NEED to have a metal cup? Does it need to have a designation for 'fine to medium' or doesn't it matter?
If you are using it with H series, it needs a metal cup. With the C series, it doesn't seem to matter.
Branson Cerakote thank you so much!
I've noticed people saying acetone eats plastic but it must be only certain types as some acetone is sold in stores in plastic bottles. Typically for nail salon type applications. As long as the cup holds up to cleaning I should be good for the clear C series then. Thanks.
Absolutely. The reason you don't want to use a plastic cup with H is because the hardener will eat the plastic.
Does anyone know if you can apply micro slick H series over any other color than black?? And how much would it discolor or turn black your original applied color coating????
You can't apply microslick over anything. The surface has to be bare, sanded metal.
Do you spray the clear over Cerakote wet on wet or do you let the cerkote flash first?
Depends. If it's C series clear, you want it to be fully baked out first. If it's H series clear, it's preferred to do it wet on wet, but that's not an option if you are doing layers (camo), so you have to tack first.
Can you clear over anodizing? Or do you need to blast, paint, cure, for a base?
You can clear directly over it.
@@BransonCerakote THANK YOU! Also the armor clear requires the catalyst/ hardner. Found that out the stupid way.
@@nffd23 Yeah. I stay clear of the H series clear, pun intended.
I just finished an AR lower, (the skull face on the magwell of the Sharps Bros the Jack), with a battle worn finish in air cure. It came out great but now I wish that I used the over cure. (this was my first go around). My question is, I have some air cure matte clear but could I use H matte clear instead?
I've never used the H clear. I use the C series over both H and C.
Hi John, sorry to revive an old thread, but have you ever tried baking the c-series clear? Ive hears "iffy" things about the H300 series clear, but you have success with the air cure method. I was just wondering if you have ever experimented baking it to cut the cure time down at all, for when you don't have a week to wait for it. Thanks!
Never tried it, but I do get that question enough to add it to the list. We are swamped right now with the holidays (all of the recent videos are a couple of months old), but I'll try to fit it in soon.
so... I called cerakote and they told me that the clear was not designed to go over cerakote. I was specifically told that their is only a 70% success rate of doing that. You have obviously figured out how to have a high success rate. What are your thoughts on this?
I'm not sure what their problem is. I've never had a problem with it, and have been doing it for years.
I agree ... I have really not had any issues either. I use it on every single mug and almost all of the vaporizers I do. I use the same (156 and 157) as BC does. I think the success rate comes with getting a good H coat and cure to begin with and obviously not laying it on too thick ... the air pressure, I believe is the trick to that.
I sprayed the Mc-161 matte clear over a shotgun that I buffed and polished trying to keep the shine. But once sprayed it looks foggy I guess you could say do you know why or have you ever had this problem. My first time using it. Thanks for all the helpful videos!!
You may have sprayed it too heavy.
Branson Cerakote thanks do you know of and how to fix it..
Unfortunately, there's really no fix. Sand it all down and start again. Been there.
Branson Cerakote Ok, thanks for the info and all the great videos!!
Thank you!
Nice video ! Which one is the best clear Cerakote mc-156 or mc-160 ? thanks
We use 157/157. They seem to do everything well, without being great at anything.
Sorry, 156/157.
Where are you getting big containers
Which ones?
@@BransonCerakote clear coat
@@mr.diyhowtopaintingwelding4479 We get them from Cerakote.com.
can you clear high gloss CeraKote over polished carbon steel? wanted to polish my 1911 but didnt want to leave it unprotected.
I've never done it, but I think you'd be fine.
Great instructional Video. I have an old Motor Cycle I'm in the process of painting and I'm thinking of Cerakoting the Fenders and Gas Tank. The fenders are are currently chrome with lots of rust so I was thinking of using an Heat resistant primer before I use the H Series and place them in the oven. Has anyone tried placing Cerakote over a primer? I've sanded the chrome to give it some thing to bind to. I hope this will give me a better sub-straight than the pit marked surface. If this works I'm going to use the Clear Coat that is being demonstrated here (160 Clear). Does anyone know if this Clear Coat will hold up against Gas spills on the tank?
Thank you very much.
I wouldn't recommend priming first. I have never personally tried it, but I know Cerakote has to bond with a bare surface. I've done a set of motorcycle tins, and had no issue with going right on bare metal. Cerakote probably won't bond to any other type of coating. I do know it won't bond to other Cerakote if it's a layer that has already been hardened. You may want to contact NIC and ask them some questions.
I know the Cerakote in general holds up well to chemicals and solvents. I have never really tested the clear coat. I'd ask them about which clear would be best for that application.
The big thing I found out with my MC project, when I was clear coating, was to let the clear cure for several days before assembly. Also, make sure you plug any holes before shooting the clear.
If you apply Cerakote over a primer, the Cerakote will flake off. Cerakote needs the little ridges from blasting to grab ahold of. If you are wanting something for heat protection why not try C Series?
Hey John, great videos! Have a question... how long after you Cerakote a part can you apply Cerakote clear? In other words if I have a project that was Cerakoted a month ago... Can I apply clear on it now without any adverse reactions?
I've never tried it, but I'd assume as long as it was degreased, it would be fine.
Thanks!
Thank you for asking/answering this question. Exactly what I was looking for.
I imagine if I keep the tumbler in a closed, very clean container should be good to go. I just did my first tumbler and want to clear coat it now...so I need to get some ordered...excellent planning on my part...lol...thanks again. Love the videos...
Do you have to bake it
The MC series is air cure. Spray it, and wait 5-7 days. The H series clear is a bake on clear.
Do you have to bake it after spraining it or just air dry it ?
The C series is an air cure. It takes about 4 hours to be tack free, and 7 days to fully cure.
Great videos. Do you know if you can spray MC161 over cured (several months old) MC161? I ended up with a dry edge that looks pretty average and I'd like to go over it.
Not from our experience. The couple of times I've tried spraying clear over cured clear, it has looked bad. I've never tried lightly sanding it. If you decide to try sanding, please let me know how it turns out.
Ok, thanks. What grade paper would you use? 600 wet? 400? Prep with acetone or wax and grease remover?
@@expatozzy No clue, lol. :)
Lol, ok
does the clear have to be sprayed once the parts cool? or can you wait several hours and clear it and product still turn out good.
You can wait months, as long as the surface is degreased.
@@BransonCerakote thank you! much appreciated
@@stevendarin5930 Glad to help.
No Respirator?
I get that a lot.
Which is your preference between MC 157 and 161? I know the 157 is supposed to be a lower viscosity, but generally which one is the more preferred matte clear? (For tumblers etc, not firearms)
We use the 157 most of the time.
Is one better than the other generally or just preference? Thanks
@@Dovaking14 157 is not great at any one thing, but is good at them all.
What's the benefit if Cerakote is already a protectant? Does it give all paints the same sheen whether they are matte or semi gloss?
It just gives an extra layer of protection. I especially like it for pistols that get a lot of holster wear, or truck guns that get a lot of abuse.
I've honestly gotten to the point where I just spray it on almost everything.
It does tend to even things out, i.e. the polymer frame with the metal slide. The matte barely has any sheen at all, about like stock blueing. The gloss has quite a bit.
Does the semi gloss make the matte textures all semi gloss as well?
Not sure. I've only sprayed the matte, and the high gloss.
There is some variation depending on what the colors are underneath also. Some colors have more pigmentation already (Prison Pink, Electric Yellow) and are already pretty glossy.
On a lot of surfaces, it adds depth to the color scheme.
What is the best HVLP pressure setting to apply this on 0.8mm nozzle? And can i spray the items on a flat surface instead of hanging ?
30 PSI. Sure, just be careful about pooling.
@@BransonCerakote thanks, yes i am trying to covering them with a mist coat to avoid runs what y think ?
@@VWPassat_3BG Sounds good.
@@BransonCerakote thank you Sir!
Hi! This product has strong smell like other clear coats on the market?
Yep. Smells like death. Wear a respirator.
Branson, new to Cerakote and just found your videos. Couple questions...
Thinking about doing a set of truck wheels with Cerakote Glacier black C-7600 and am wondering if I can apply a clear coat over this to make it a really gloss black finish? If so, how long should I wait after applying the 7600 before applying the clear?
Also, wondering if it is possible to do a black chrome using a combination Cerakote products. Is it possible to "thin" the Glacier black with MC-160 and spray over chrome? If so, any tips on prepping the chrome?
Glacier would be your only real option for wheels. The clear isn't UV stable, so it will fade. Powdercoat will look much better.
Ok thanks for your reply. Good to know.
@@lizdaryl Glad to help.
Can I apply this on a bronze and would that prevent damn patina showing up? Thanks
Shouldn't be a problem.
Have you sprayed this on just a stainless or nickel gun for protection? If so can you tell it's on there or does it just look like the original finish?
I'm a little hesitant to spray it on a nice finish gun.
If you had to remove C series, is it like H where you you have to blast it off? Or can you rub it down with steel wool like microslick before it fully cures if you had a run?
Sorry lots of questions
Depending on the color, white comes to mind, there can be a slight difference between the final shade on different materials. I did a Glock in snow white and the slide was just a shade off from the frame. The clear tends to even things out of they are just a bit off.
I have not sprayed it on an original finish, plain metal barrel. I just haven't had a request for that.
I honestly couldn't tell you what you'd end up with if you steel wooled C series. I've just always sand blasted everything. If you get a run, all you need to do is let it get tack free, then sand blast it. At that stage in the curing, it comes off really easily at about 50 psi.
No worries. I don't mind.
If you had a run of the clear coat and sand blasted it doesn't it ruin the H series under the clear?
Sorry, misunderstood you. Honestly, I don't get runs in the clear. It needs to go on pretty thin. Occasionally you will get a drop that forms at the bottom of an item, and the only trick with that is to let it dry for a few hours then rub it off with your finger. It's not a big deal. It basically will just crumble off.
If you get an actual run, you may want to email NIC and ask for some guidance. They are really good about giving tech support. I've just always had it go on really smooth.
Thanks John, just leaned the clear is air cure. Can you recommend an oven?
An actual oven, or an oven cured clear coat? lol
Sorry, a curing oven. You said something about PA builder?
I bought mine on eBay from a guy in IA. BAAAAAAAD customer service. The other guy that builds them on eBay has a pretty legit reputation. I haven't dealt with him, so I'm hesitant to recommend him, but if I was in the market, that's probably who I'd go with. His eBay store is tedsfabrication.
It seems like all of the custom builders follow pretty much the same design.
i think its Teds fabrication !
Sounds like the guy. I talked to him when I was having trouble with the company I bought mine from. He was very helpful.
If I want to use the clear over cerakote, do I need to fully cure the Cerakote or just flash it off for 8 mins? What if it's sprayed over fully cured Cerakote? I assume it won't adhere. Thanks in advance
I can only tell you what I do. I use it over H series, fully cured. I use C series clear coat, so it needs a few days to fully cure, which obviously adds a few days to your project.
I had someone post a comment that they had called NIC and was told that NIC had not had a good success rate with spraying clear over cerakote. I personally have had a 100% success rate. I've never had an issue. Again, I can only tell you what I have experience with.
Branson Cerakote have you had success using c-160 clear over c series base? I’m wanting to do a gloss clear finish over gunmetal c series on a set of wheels. NIC recommended spraying on the clear while the base was still tacky if I were to try. That sounds sketchy to me.
Alternatively, have you ever tried to tint the clear coat?
Is it possible to apply this product over hydrography?
Yes
Is the clear cerakote suppose to be more durable for as scratches and wear
It does add an extra layer of protection. I couldn't tell you exactly how much, I've never bothered to research it. I have it on all of my guns.
@@BransonCerakote appreciate the reply
If you"re suppose to clear it while the cerakote is still wet, what do u bake it at? Cerakote is 250 for 2 hours, and the clear says 200.......
With MC156 or MC 157, you hard bake the item, then spray the air cure clear over it once it's cooled.
Great video’s!! You should always put a spray mask on though, that stuff is real bad for the lungs.
We do normally. Just hard to do video with it on.
Hi John
I noticed your spray nozzle is set for horizontal pattern, I was setting mine to vertical because it seams less waste on typical longer rifle parts, I do air rifles , do you change your pattern when doing similar parts or stay with the horizontal pattern and if you just use the horizontal pattern is there a reason
Thanks again
Mike E
We only spray horizontally. Habit, that's the way Cerakote trained, and seems to be easier to get an even coat with just allowing things to hang by going up and down.
@@BransonCerakote I will try that out , Question on the Micro slick
Can I apply the micro slick on a un blasted degreased surface I wanted to try to coat the inside of a air rifles tube for moving parts & seal
@@MrSteppingstone888 Can't hurt, but I don't think it will last as long without blasting.
@@BransonCerakote Thanks John . Have a good Christmas
@@MrSteppingstone888 glad to help. Merry Christmas!
Do you guys use C series regularly or on certain items?
Only the clear.
Can I spray this over clear plastic ????
I don't see why not. I'd test a small area first to make sure it's not going to melt the plastic.
Old thread, so apologies. I have some powder coated parts. Can I cerakote clear over these?
I've tried it, and it doesn't turn out. I use a clear coat powder coat when we float powder.
Thank you! I recently had an issue with clear powder finish over a chrome powder color. Gas leaked from a carb and browned the finish. Looks horrible.
@@john1bolen2 Yikes. We don't do many vehicle parts.
Can you share a link to where you buy the 100 mesh paper strainers?
I just get them from ebay. The only thing to be careful about is, there are some sellers that have filters where the mesh doesn't go all the way to the tip of the cone. You end up losing a couple of mil. I just look very carefully at the pics.
Branson Cerakote, thanks!
Great vid. I've put the C157 matte on a few items and really like the added protection of it. I'd like to see that vid on the oven cure clear and see if it's more of a flat finish. The matte to me is just a little glossy but not bad. Thanks for sharing Branson.
I have the H series clear coat on our to do list. I'll get to it hopefully in a week or so.
Thanks for watching!
Any reason you choose the 156 over the 160? Would the 160 be a better choice for larger parts?
That's an older video. When we made it, MC156/157 was the best option as far as they did good at both abrasion and UV, but not great at either. They've changed the formulas a couple of times since then. We use more H series clear than anything else now, but do use the air cure for going over multiple color projects. Size of the project doesn't really matter.
@@BransonCerakote Thanks for the response! When using H-series clear over H-series color, do you just tack out the color before applying the clear or do you do a full cure, then clear/cure?
@@mattpoirot2492 With H series, you don't want to bake it at all before putting the clear on. That's why it's basically a one and done clear. You spray the single color H on, let it air cure for about 20 minutes, then spray the clear over it (wet on wet). Let it air cure for another 20 minutes, then bake normally. If it's baked at all, even just tacked, the clear will likely fail. That.s why you have to use air cure clear over multicolor projects.
@@BransonCerakote Awesome! Thanks again for always helping out the DIY’ers!
@@mattpoirot2492 Any time brother.
What clear do you use with your candy?
MC156.
Why do you use a turntable to clear coat and you hang the cups when you paint?
Good question, and not something I've ever talked about in the videos. That's one of those steps I just do, but never think about.
I searched for a while for a way to hang tumblers for spraying. NIC uses inflatable plumbing pressure test bulbs (at least they did the last time I was out there), but I found that they are expensive, and don't last more than a few months. I tried a couple of other techniques, and just wasn't happy with them. What I finally came up with was the spring clip method. The only draw back is, they use friction between little rubber pads and the tumbler. Every once in a while the clip would slip in the oven, and when I took them out, they'd be hanging by one clip. I was always worried I'd have one fail completely, and end up ruined in the bottom of the oven. So, I started baking them for about 15 minutes, then popping them off the clips and baking them upside down on a board for the remainder of the time.
After they finish baking and cooling, I just lay them on a piece of scrap cardboard, and spray them on the turntable. The other reason is, if you do get just a little too much clear coat on, it will run to the bottom. If the cup is upside down, the bottom is your taped rim. Peel the tape off, and you still have a clean finish.
Just thought of something else I've never covered. Just a personal preference if you will, but I sort of have to spray the cups upright. I'm not very artistic believe it or not, and I need to look at the tumbler the way it's going to be oriented when it's sitting on the table. My brain hurts when I start trying to put the idea in my head on an upside down cup, lol.
Branson Cerakote Thanks, just wondered why the difference.
I'm using the H-300. Letting it sit for so many minutes then baking at 250. It's a hit or miss when I do it and I have no idea why.
The H series clear is crap. We only use MC156 or MC157 and have had no issues.
@@BransonCerakote I'll have to try it
Hey mate. Have you tried this over the glacier series on any hot parts like an exhaust? Got guys asking me for a gloss black finish on their motorbikes and I use the glacier black now but it's matte. They want gloss so I bought the high gloss clear going to give it a try soon
It should be ok. You can shot Tom an email over at NIC and make sure. I haven't done any headers or exhaust yet.
Branson Cerakote thankyou! I'll give it a go can't hurt lol
Any time.