Ahh, the percussionism... I believe the changes in loudness, and also smoothness of operation of these cameras come from shutter tension more than anything else, so it comes down to what did the last repairman do. I think the default tension probably was changing over the years, just as the steel used for springs or the adhesives used to glue the parts of the shutter were improved. From leica-like smooth sort of cameras that got into trouble as the lubricant went stiffer, to snappy, tensioned tanks, better suited for Siberia, that would work for ages lubricated with deer fat only. I quite like the window trims on the older Zorkis BTW. Cheers!
I have a 4K and did quite some street photography with it. I even have a video on that actually. But what I want to say that it's not _that_ loud when you are on a street. The absence of strap locks is inconvenient though. Nevertheless, I learned something new about the earliest model! Interesting... it should be possible to replace the knob with the 4K crank to have the best from two models :)
Hi there, it's possible I believe; another simpler solution would be to take the bodyshell from a 4 with straplugs and put it onto a 4K body. Thanks for watching, and sorry for late reply!
Glad you're enjoying your Zorki, they're small, simple and fairly quiet, and a nice alternative to auto everything. It's possible to replace the knob with a crank, but not an easy job. If you want lever wind, I would suggest just buying a 4K. Thanks for watching!
I have two 4s from 1965 and 1970 and a 4K from 1972. The shutters on all of them sound quite different, but all of them seem to be surprisingly accurate, more so than many Western cameras. I thought the 4K shutter sounded too fast, but when I developed the first, and so far only, film it was just about right. There is a problem with the 1970 model, the rangefinder doesn’t work. The device inside the lens mount which should operate it is jammed fully back. I’ve tried hooking a fingernail behind it and gently pulling it forward, but it doesn’t want to move. It’s not a huge problem, many of my photographs are taken at infinity, and for those that are not I often have to focus by scale due to very poor eyesight.
There are some tutorials on youtube for various repairs and servicing, however unless you're practised in repairing cameras I'd approach with caution. It might be better to let an experienced repair person bring it back to good order - it will then last you many years so will be worth it.
To get round the lack of lugs mine has been cut around the stud on the case and Velcro has been used on both parts of the case. A good modification I think.
Hi, nice job !! would a1958 model zorki 4 with all the characteristics you mentioned here be of the same quality as the 57 ? also is the fact that it is green an issue ?
The 57 models had all markings engraved, stitched shutter curtains, strap lugs and a raised rim to the viewfinder and rangefinder windows on the camera front. Does your Zorki have these features? Whether it does or not, any Zorki 4 in good condition is a great little camera and with care and servicing will last many years.
How does the earliest Zorki compare to a actual Leica camera? Is it louder or just as quiet or quieter than its Leica counterparts? I'm very curious about this.
The Zorkis are generally louder than the Leicas, although it's not an absolute rule; my 1936 Leica iiia is very quiet indeed and almost vibration free at all speeds. My Zorki 4 is much louder than my 3, had a zorki 1 that was quite loud, as is my 1932 leica ii. They're all nice in their own way though! Hope that's of some help, and thanks for tuning in.
Zenography thanks for replying! I ended up getting a leica llla with a summar 50mm 1:2 lens for only 300 usd which I think was a steal. Man I can't believe the quality of these cameras. It's so nice I'm still in shock I finally have one!
Excuse me, where do you put the batteries? Today I found this camera between my grandmother’s stuff. She passed away a couple of years ago and I really want to keep her camera but I don’t know how to use it. Please, answer me if you can 🙏🏼
Hi Esmelia, no batteries required for the Zorki, no charging, no electronics, only the simple technology of springs, lever and gears! You have a real old school camera that will give you the true photography experience! To use this camera you will need a light meter (I recommend an old selenium one, available very cheaply). If you don't have one, or can't get one, you can use the 'sunny 16' rule (lots of youtube videos on how to use this). Unlike modern cameras the Zorki doesn't control the amount of light entering the camera, so you will need to work this out for yourself, which is why you need a light meter, or the sunny 16 rule. This is called exposure, and is set using 1. the lens aperture (at the front of the lens) and 2. the shutter speeds, set by lifting the dial on top of the camera. Please remember these rules when setting shutter speeds: 1. NEVER change shutter speeds until you have would the camera on. 2. NEVER try to turn the shutter speed dial between '30' and '1'. Let me know how you get on, and if you have any more questions please do ask.
Hi there! Yes, I think I probably am something of a Zorki maniac! I made a video recently showing some images I've made with these cameras; if you go to the Zenography channel page, it's the video before this one.
I've found the 3 to be much quieter, sweeter and smoother than most 4s, except the earliest ones from around 1957. The Z3 is actually a really nice camera and in my opinion an iconic piece of design in its own right. Don't be put off by rumours of unreliability in early Z3s (with separate slow speed dial) - easily cleaned and reliable afterwards.
I have indeed, and they're great little cameras! Small, discreet, quiet and they look fantastic too! They're very old now though, so it's worth waiting, and paying a little extra, for a good one. If you get one, I don't think you'll regret it.
neil piper I have a 75 one in the same condition, my wife bought it for me as part of my birthday present last year and I chose this one partly because it’s the year of her birth. It also had a full CLA and I bought it from Glasgow which gave me a bit more reassurance being relatively accessible. I got it with a brilliant aluminium Jupiter 8 from the same year with a quick throw ring for the focus ring, rather than the little arm on the earlier models. This rig, especially with FP4+ or Acros gives me the most pleasure to use out of all my cameras, even including my Bronica, and far beyond my rather sterile Canon 5DIII.
Ahh, the percussionism... I believe the changes in loudness, and also smoothness of operation of these cameras come from shutter tension more than anything else, so it comes down to what did the last repairman do. I think the default tension probably was changing over the years, just as the steel used for springs or the adhesives used to glue the parts of the shutter were improved. From leica-like smooth sort of cameras that got into trouble as the lubricant went stiffer, to snappy, tensioned tanks, better suited for Siberia, that would work for ages lubricated with deer fat only.
I quite like the window trims on the older Zorkis BTW. Cheers!
Excellent video as always. Thanks for taking the time to share.
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it!
nice to have some zenography over the Christmas period, love those russian cameras .
Thanks zen whatever that may mean.
Thanks for tuning in Paul, glad you enjoyed it.
I have a 4K and did quite some street photography with it. I even have a video on that actually. But what I want to say that it's not _that_ loud when you are on a street. The absence of strap locks is inconvenient though. Nevertheless, I learned something new about the earliest model! Interesting... it should be possible to replace the knob with the 4K crank to have the best from two models :)
Hi there, it's possible I believe; another simpler solution would be to take the bodyshell from a 4 with straplugs and put it onto a 4K body. Thanks for watching, and sorry for late reply!
Glad you're enjoying your Zorki, they're small, simple and fairly quiet, and a nice alternative to auto everything. It's possible to replace the knob with a crank, but not an easy job. If you want lever wind, I would suggest just buying a 4K.
Thanks for watching!
Greetings from China ~ I just got a Zorki (1964 version) to replace my Nikon S, whose viewfinder is toooo small & dim..
Enjoy that Zorki!
I have two 4s from 1965 and 1970 and a 4K from 1972. The shutters on all of them sound quite different, but all of them seem to be surprisingly accurate, more so than many Western cameras. I thought the 4K shutter sounded too fast, but when I developed the first, and so far only, film it was just about right.
There is a problem with the 1970 model, the rangefinder doesn’t work. The device inside the lens mount which should operate it is jammed fully back. I’ve tried hooking a fingernail behind it and gently pulling it forward, but it doesn’t want to move. It’s not a huge problem, many of my photographs are taken at infinity, and for those that are not I often have to focus by scale due to very poor eyesight.
I've just purchased a Zorki 4. Where can I learn how to lube and service them? It's a gift and I'd like it to last me.
There are some tutorials on youtube for various repairs and servicing, however unless you're practised in repairing cameras I'd approach with caution. It might be better to let an experienced repair person bring it back to good order - it will then last you many years so will be worth it.
To get round the lack of lugs mine has been cut around the stud on the case and Velcro has been used on both parts of the case. A good modification I think.
Velcro's a good solution, should work well.
Hi, nice job !! would a1958 model zorki 4 with all the characteristics you mentioned here be of the same quality as the 57 ? also is the fact that it is green an issue ?
The 57 models had all markings engraved, stitched shutter curtains, strap lugs and a raised rim to the viewfinder and rangefinder windows on the camera front. Does your Zorki have these features? Whether it does or not, any Zorki 4 in good condition is a great little camera and with care and servicing will last many years.
Nice video indeed, learned a lot ! merci beaucoup depuis la France mon Ami !!! :)
Merci beaucoup Stephane, glad you enjoyed it!
Does any know if a leica M39 threaded lens will register with a Zorki 4?
How does the earliest Zorki compare to a actual Leica camera? Is it louder or just as quiet or quieter than its Leica counterparts? I'm very curious about this.
The Zorkis are generally louder than the Leicas, although it's not an absolute rule; my 1936 Leica iiia is very quiet indeed and almost vibration free at all speeds. My Zorki 4 is much louder than my 3, had a zorki 1 that was quite loud, as is my 1932 leica ii. They're all nice in their own way though! Hope that's of some help, and thanks for tuning in.
Zenography thanks for replying! I ended up getting a leica llla with a summar 50mm 1:2 lens for only 300 usd which I think was a steal. Man I can't believe the quality of these cameras. It's so nice I'm still in shock I finally have one!
Excuse me, where do you put the batteries? Today I found this camera between my grandmother’s stuff. She passed away a couple of years ago and I really want to keep her camera but I don’t know how to use it. Please, answer me if you can 🙏🏼
Hi Esmelia, no batteries required for the Zorki, no charging, no electronics, only the simple technology of springs, lever and gears! You have a real old school camera that will give you the true photography experience!
To use this camera you will need a light meter (I recommend an old selenium one, available very cheaply). If you don't have one, or can't get one, you can use the 'sunny 16' rule (lots of youtube videos on how to use this).
Unlike modern cameras the Zorki doesn't control the amount of light entering the camera, so you will need to work this out for yourself, which is why you need a light meter, or the sunny 16 rule. This is called exposure, and is set using 1. the lens aperture (at the front of the lens) and 2. the shutter speeds, set by lifting the dial on top of the camera.
Please remember these rules when setting shutter speeds: 1. NEVER change shutter speeds until you have would the camera on. 2. NEVER try to turn the shutter speed dial between '30' and '1'.
Let me know how you get on, and if you have any more questions please do ask.
The year of manufacture is the first two numbers of the serial number on the back.
Indeed it does, perhaps you noticed I got the later date wrong in the title!
Hello from Moscow! You must be a Zorki fiend or even maniac. Where can I see your photos?
Hi there! Yes, I think I probably am something of a Zorki maniac! I made a video recently showing some images I've made with these cameras; if you go to the Zenography channel page, it's the video before this one.
And which of the Zorki's is the quietest between the 3 and the 4s?
I've found the 3 to be much quieter, sweeter and smoother than most 4s, except the earliest ones from around 1957. The Z3 is actually a really nice camera and in my opinion an iconic piece of design in its own right. Don't be put off by rumours of unreliability in early Z3s (with separate slow speed dial) - easily cleaned and reliable afterwards.
Great videos! Have you used a Zorki 1, and if so whats it like? I'm thinking of buying one
I have indeed, and they're great little cameras! Small, discreet, quiet and they look fantastic too! They're very old now though, so it's worth waiting, and paying a little extra, for a good one. If you get one, I don't think you'll regret it.
If only mine had strap lugs like yours
Have you considered using a half case?
My 4k is 1976 and is in mint condition.
Hope you're enjoying it, good to see people looking after these old machines.
Nice! Ive got a 74 mint nd a 1958 very quiet indeed nd somewhat heavy but very nice to hold. Thanks this review helped me a lot on buying my Zorki's.
The early ones are definitely the best in my view. Glad you found the review useful!
neil piper I have a 75 one in the same condition, my wife bought it for me as part of my birthday present last year and I chose this one partly because it’s the year of her birth. It also had a full CLA and I bought it from Glasgow which gave me a bit more reassurance being relatively accessible. I got it with a brilliant aluminium Jupiter 8 from the same year with a quick throw ring for the focus ring, rather than the little arm on the earlier models. This rig, especially with FP4+ or Acros gives me the most pleasure to use out of all my cameras, even including my Bronica, and far beyond my rather sterile Canon 5DIII.