One thing I do if taking loose or putting on a bolt or nut in a tight spot is to place enough tape (masking tape, duct tape, whatever) sticky side out , inside the socket to hold the nut in place while starting it (or removing it). I'm a subscriber on your pen site and didn't know about this one..... so had to subscribe also. Thanks for the video !
bought a new egr valve because I didn't know you could clean them and it could fix it. but found one online for $30. if it wasn't for these RUclips videos I'd spend hundreds of dollars at a garage. thanks for sharing your videos
sooo true, sometimes cleaning valve will not stop code from disappearing. I too had to just buy the valve cost under $30. Some oil change shop charges $299+ for "cleaning egr valve"
On a Ford, if you get EGR codes, replace the Charcoal canister purge valve. If you get codes about oxygen sensor running rich and lean, replace the MAP sensor. If you're getting vacuum to the EGR at idle, replace the purge valve if it has one. If the engine idles smoother with the vacuum hose removed, it's something upstream from the EGR valve. If you apply vacuum to the EGR with a Mityvac at idle, the engine should run rough. If it doesn't, the passage under the EGR could be clogged. Short trip driving can cause it.
WhatchaDoinBob My Snap-on scanner has a Troubleshooting menu and THAT'S how I fixed my car! Otherwise I would've replaced parts and not fix it. Snap-on scanners are useful on OBDI and some OBD II. E-Bay has them.
Great video - Just a helpful hint, Instead of dropping those bolts, try put a magnet on your socket shaft. Solution = stop dropping bolts. You might also consider wire-wheeling the threads on those bolts then using a little anti-seize on the threads. It'll make a world of difference next time you need to remove it.
@@haleiwahi27 on the socket in order not to loose bolts and nuts when disassembling and reassembling just a small drop i allso used to tape the extensions and socket its up to you if u like fishing and have plenty time
Your welcome sir. I have to let other people fix for me, on the road a lot so no place to do the work. Videos like yours helps me "guide" the technicians in the repairs. Keep it up!
You know what I've found to work on heavy carbon or grease removal. OVEN CLEANER. And let it soak for maybe 10 - 15 minutes. You'll be surprised how clean and easy it makes the job.
A little MMO or WD40 to liquify the carbon first helps the oven cleaner do it’s job faster. You’ll also use less of the oven cleaner (lye), which can be hard on aluminum- lots of water to flush all the crud & chemical out.
A leaking intake manifold gasket will likely allow coolant to leak into the engine oil. Most times, you will not notice this until one of two things take place....1) your engine light come on. or 2) you routinely check your fluids as I do and you find abnormal conditions taking place that require further inspection. I was fortunate to have caught a leaking intake manifold early. I can tell you that replacing intake manifold gaskets on a van is the most painful exercise you can go through! Any DIY can do it, just don't begin to think its a one day job only! I have no trust in garages and dealerships doing what is necessary for long term performance. I did my own at my pace and very thorough!!!! Eight years later, I still have an excellent performing engine passing all government emissions testing and still going strong on the road.
Only SOME vehicles have intake manifolds that also have coolant channels. The 4.3 liter is one of them. Did it on my Astro van. MAJOR effort and learning curve. Took days but I also upgraded injectors and other stuff. Saved some big $$.
Thank you very much for this video, Bob. Just may save myself some money. When I put nuts in a socket of a socket wrench and have to aim the open end of the socket downward, using plumbers putty or wet chewing gum (can be wetted with clean water if preferred) in the socket with the nut keeps the nut from falling out. Hoping this will save lots of trouble, especially for those times when there is no room to stick a finger down with the end of the socket to hold the nut in .
I replaced head gaskets, lower intake manifold gasket, valve cover gaskets, fuel injector o-rings, exhaust manifold gaskets, and the plenum gaskets on a 99 3.1liter for 40 dollars. got the gasket kit without the head bolts for $32 ordered through eBay. everything was right except the plenum gaskets. so for $7 at O'Reilly's she was done. ran like new for about 100 miles then I got a Egr error code. (don't remember the wording for the code). I pulled the valve off and it looked pretty good to be 20 years old! 😊 but it was sticking....been running good for a while now. the engine parts were easy, it was the dang plug wire boots stuck on the plugs, rewrapping most of the wiring harness (it just disintegrated from heat and time), making my own fuel line tool to remove the lines, and of course the egr valve sticking........little things like that which takes more time. but if you don't need the car for a couple days and can work at a pace, its worth it. moms car wasn't worth much before, but it only had 120,000 on it over 20 years. I wouldn't feel bad about selling it now....after I drive it a little first since I did save a ton of money.😊
You did a boat load of work. I’ll bet it was a job but well worth it for that kind of money. I’ll bet the engine runs smooth too. Thank you for sharing. Regards, Bob
yes sir, there are places that ppl can get their EGR cleaning service done that cost more to clean it. Back then its $299 to clean egr valve. But i remember i replace mine on my ford explorer and the valve itself was only less then $30. Anything a shop service is over price cause they in business to generate profit.
Let's not call that a profit but a livelihood. Means the same, but sounds a lot better. Holland (The Netherlands?, uhmm Amsterdam?) has been DIY country for decades. You have to become a jack of all trades to get by. In a way that is a bit cheap. Okay, thrifty. Frugal? That is because of labour price per hour. I meet a lot of Indians and they just know someone who can do it for them. In and around the house. That is because there are lots of people waiting in line just to make a few pennies.
Good idea cleaning the EGR valve. A lot of people are not aware of that. But, when you clean it, next time, as a suggestion use Q -tips to clean not only the valve but the housing as well. You shouldn't use metal to clean it. The throttle cleaner is great. You should give it a few hours to sit. Allow the solution to settle. To better clean out the carbon
Lol but the repair shops are so so busy, people love to spend their money to not have to think about it. This man has discovered what every home mechanic knows, its an interesting time in any home mechanics life, reality is fun. Now auto repair places provide a valuable service but we can save so much money by doing it ourselves.
whenever you are taking off these hard to get screws/ nuts, you could easily get to'em by putting a single or double piece of a small paper inside the socket and then put in your hardware there - just push it 👌 also, whenever you are servicing an egr valve that you need to remove, replace the base gasket with a new one bc it may leak out - if it is for testing, civer it with indian head shellack, if not available use silicon or grease at least atst, when cleaning with any chemicals/ aerosols the orifices of the egr valve, use penetrating oil to make the pintle traveling experience a hit 🤗 that is the way its performed at a repair facility 👍
It's the unburnt fuel that gets forced by the piston rings and into the crank case. It's then recirculated through that system and returned into the combustion chamber.
The intake manifold in my car is a pain to replace. I think I've got carbon buildup in my ports, which is very common for a Honda. I'm just doing everything I can to clean the ports without taking them apart right now. The EGR valve is in a tight spot with my car. I was able to get to the bolts with a regular extension the first time, but this is the only time I ever used my wobble extensions on subsequent cleanings. It makes the job much easier because they can offer that slight bend. The EGR valve is so simple to get off now. I can take it off in probably 2-3 minutes. The magnetic pickup tool has been really useful with this as well.
Use CRC GDI intake cleaner, after it heat soaks it will run great as long as you dont have a vacuum leak at the intake manifold. A vacuum leak will just spray it out at any vacuum leak not doing a proper cleaning. It cost $13 a can, but worth every penny. Also Chevron Techron super concentrate fuel additive works realy well cleaning carbon deposits, even on your intake valves. It's the only fuel additive that ford motor company recemends for its GDI engines. Both these cleaners will give your car new life and much more engine performance. I was surprised by these two cleaners, i could feel the power in my veins after going for a test ride!
There is something that can be used to break up that carbon build up thus making your honda run hella better bro. You can also use mystry oil auto zone advance wal mart dollar general napa sell it. Comes in red bottle it can be used in two applications on vehicle. One use is in the fuel an other is pour it in oil an it cleans n keeps all the parts in great condition from use as treatment with oil an fuel. I use it in my Zx7r 750 as well my Saab and i now use it in my BMW X5 SAV truck.
carbon build up is exceptionally common for any vehicle with an egr valve, due to it breathing its own soot, imagine if they stuck a pipe from your nose to your backside.... best thing for an egr is a blanking plate. (if legal in your area)
Make sure to use a good sealant on the new egr gasket, old permatex part 2B is good enough. Take a little trip to Home Depot or Lowe's, get a magnet washer from their screws/nuts/bolts isle, that way I don't have to hold a nut where my fingers won't fit!
When you are removing mechanical or electronic parts with multiple screws or bolts to break loose; break loose the first just enough to loosen and then each other one the same; then, finish taking all the bolts loose. When you leave one bolt tight you are risking bending or cracking a part.
+Robert Evans Thank you Robert, I hope so too. I'd like to stretch a few more miles out of it. I always joked I was going to get half a million. Regards, Bob
Normally it is easy to just clean the Mass Airflow Sensor. That normally fixes that problem. Cleaning the EGR Valve is the thing to do. To take it off, spray it down with Carb Cleaner helps. But it is best to let it soak and then scrub it with an old toothbrush. Then spray it out with Carb Cleaner, let it dry and reinstall using a NEW Gasket.
Now I know why I quite rebuilding engines many years ago. Messy work.......! On those places where you can't get your fingers in to hold the nut in the socket, you can put a small dab of heavy grease around the nut, then put the nut in the socket and the grease will hold the nut 'till you get it on the stud.
My take on your trouble is that all your problems originated from the intake manifold air leak, that will allow unmetered (and unfiltered) air into the cylinders and causes conflicts in the MAF and MAF sensor feedback, this will result in the ECU not knowing how to react properly with regards to fuel trim. (causing poor gas mileage) and setting the MIL to come on. Always resolve air or vacuum leaks first then reset the ECU.
Just a word about getting the nuts off and on , in a in tight places, use heavy greese to hold it into place, install in socket push nut or bolt in to socket will stay put intell removed or installed, clean off greese in tell next time, Auto
90% of all egr valves and pcv valves just need cleaning and they can serve forever . Just soak it overnight with good carburetor cleaner .do not soak electronic part of egr though :) as far as gasket goes there good products to try like ATP 205 seal or flex seal You could get it fixed for less than $10 total :)
You might need to check your throttle body also spray some of that B12 spray to clean your throttle body and kind of give it some gas while you spraying it in there and that'll make it run a whole lot smoother also
Watching you cleaning the EGR.VALVE with a tooth brush.reminds me of my sister..when she was using my tooth brush to clean the inside of a toilet.with out having an idea it was my own tooth brush....she caught me sucking up.my tooth brush after I had just happilly. Had brush my. Teeth...she went crazy...i just said ..so.....why .you used it. And not asking who it belonged to....1984. Memories southern California .L.A....NOV.2020
Two summers ago my pick up would barely run . The guy at the garage check it and told me the knock sensor was bad . And it was under the intake manifold . I told him to change it . The next day he called and told me it didn't fix the problem . He said they check it again and it was the distributor. Long story short I got a bill for 1480. bucks . I wish I have changed it myself .
If manifold gasket leaks, could it be the torqued bolts working loose; retorque OR apply gasket maker to suspect leak area/s and torque tight.? Maybe ?
Lots of times the EGR will cause additional codes. It is part of how the engine "breathes", so if it can't exhale, (exhaust,) then you can get some back pressure and cause other codes. Also, never, never, try to reuse a gasket. It is a false economy. The gasket on the EGR is exposed to exhaust, at temperature, and in the video you clearly see the word "FUEL" on a sticker. At the very least, you could heat the fuel and it becomes a gas instead of a liquid, and you vapor lock. at the worst, the car could burn up. Gaskets are cheap, relatively, compared to a car. Cleaning the EGR is possible and could save you a ton. Also another thing, sometimes the after market sensors don't play well with the engine management systems. Don't know why, went through 2 MAF sensors and finally bought the OEM and problem went away. Go figure.
EGR woes can definitely cause a rough engine - especially near idle. Vacuum leaks? Not really - fuel trim [long term] will go positive to compensate, and engine still runs smooth.
I can tell by the sound your ratchet is American made Last of the true Sear Craftsman Tools. I'm willing to bet you have a Sears Red Roll Around Craftman tool chest. 'There Was More For Your Life At Sears" Sears I miss you.
i don't fuck with dealers so maybe you're right about that but it's not 1/4 Autozone or O'Reily's. I have Amazon prime so if you figure RockAuto's shipping charges it's pretty much the same price and I get it in 1-2 days instead of 3-5
where's part 2 Bob??? did you get to the parts store and back? Was she running rough? I would have put just a little squirt of blaster in that EGR just for good measure.
Your poor fuel economy is probably because when the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) is illuminated something may be preventing the system from entering Closed-Loop status. During coldt startup, the ECM is using readings from the MAF or MAP or both to compare to preprogrammed data tables to determine how much fuel to give the engine. Once the Engine Coolant Temp sensor tells the ECM that the engine has reached operating temperature, the ECM will enter Closed-Loop mode. Now the ECM is using feedback from the upstream O2 sensors to determine the Actual engine fuel needs and this method is much more accurate at achieving as close to stoichiometric Air/Fuel mixture as possible. Stoichiometric provides the best efficiency. there are several things that can prevent your ECM from entering closed loop no, something as simple as a bad/inaccurate ECT sensor or a stuck open thermostat. Either one of those may not turn on the engine light. You said they told you it has a MAP fault code. This does not actualy say its a bad sensor or if the sensor is detecting strange readings, so more info is needed. The intake leak they told you about, if large enough, may actually be allowing a vacuum leak does unmetered air is entering the manifold. This causes a lean condition and likely can be seen with a scan tool in your LTFT (long term fuel trim) as the ECM is trying to compensate by dumping in additional fuel. It looked like you have a 3.8L. and I'm not sure if you mentioned the engine size and year or if I missed it. Up to a certain year those engines commonly had intake leak problems, supposedly they corrected this in the manufacturing process but that doesn't mean it can't happen any more. When they said you have an intake leak, most likely they are not talking about the plastic intake manifold on top. If you try to do this job yourself and you change the upper intake plenum gasket, you're going to still have the problem. The intake leak affecting those 3.X litre engines is generally the lower intake manifold. There are two portions to the intake upper and lower. Changing the lower intake gasket is a rather involved job. That's not saying you can't do it, but if done incorrectly, thats a lot of time wasted and those gaskets aren't reusable. When the lower intake manifold leaks you will see coolant leaking. Sometimes you'll see it towards the front of the engine near the serpentine belt area, and sometimes you'll see it collecting on top of your transaxle. Sometimes if it's really bad you'll see both. There is a very simple test you can do to see how bad this leak is. If you have a small handheld propane torch, turn on the gas and do not ignite it. Run your engine at idle and trace the areas of the lower intake manifold with the gas nozzle. The idea here is that if there is an intake manifold leak, engine vacuum is going to suck in combustible gas and the engine RPMs will change suddenly. 😁
You do realize you dont actually have to take the small plate off just take off the part and spray it inside the hole of valve tell it smoothly easy move in and out,then let it dry about 1 or 2
I guess Im asking the wrong place but does anybody know of a tool to log back into an instagram account? I somehow forgot the password. I appreciate any help you can give me
@Julio Justice i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and im in the hacking process atm. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
You didn't clean the EGR ports on the engine, does should be sprayed and gunk removed too. I didn't see you replace the EGR valve gasket . Otherwise every informative video, thanks
Rebecca, For that price he's replacing the valve. I don't like when people just assume that every auto tech is trying to rape your wallet. You don't supply enough information for anyone to determine whether or not that is a valid price. Listening to any one of the people who have said that that is a steep price would be foolish. Those people are pulling answers out of their B-holes. If you supply the year make and model and 8th letter of your VIN code, then and only then can a person provide you with better answers. Depending on where you're EGR is located the industry standard labor guide is going to determine how much time the technician will be paid to do your job. The only people who understand how automotive technicians get paid, unfortunately, are us automotive technicians! When I clock in at work I am not getting paid! If you come to my shop and flag me down and asked me to put air in your tire... And subsequently begin asking me a bunch of questions about your car, I am essentially standing there earning $0 per hour while you waste my time. Flat rate technicians only earn money when they perform a labor operation on your car. With the appropriate information on your make and model, a technician will go into a resource such as AllData where it will show "EGR Valve R&R = 1.5hours." It will often also say "labor time is for Remove & Replace only. For cleaning add 0.2hours (12minutes)." Not all EGR valves are on top and easy to access as this guy's video shows. Regardless if your tech sold you a new part or cleaned the old one, you still must pay him for the R&R labor. Generally if the part is very difficult to get access to and the labor is high because of this, the tech will wisely opt to sell you a brand new part. Cleaning an EGR Pintle is something that One can try, but the Stepper Motor could be malfunctioning. Cleaning the EGR is like guess-work..... Maybe it fixes it, maybe it doesn't. For this reason, Technicians usually DON'T clean them. You see there is one thing we Professional Mechanics fear most..... Comebacks! If your tech tried to clean your EGR and told you he installed a new one, not only is that theft but he is risking having the job Comeback. Just so you know Shops do not compensate technicians for working on Comebacks. Most often when you had a repair done and then you bring it back because you think something isn't right or the problem happened again..... That same technician is pulled away from jobs that are paying him so that he can work on your car earning no paycheck. This Flat-Rate pay system encourages techs to do the best work possible the first time. Most Professional Mechanics care about Your car and they are genuinely trying to give you good results. We aren't out to screw people because this our livelihood and peoples Idiot opinions combined with internet Yelp reviews done by people who get butthurt when they paid for One problem to be diagnosed and fixed but then the car still has unrelated problems which the shop says they must charge more to repair. These things negatively affect our business and income. For example: customer states car Cranks but does not Start. Technician gets 1hour of Diag time. That's one hour of pay regardless if the problem takes 4 hours to find! Tech runs tests on fuel system=ok. Tech tests Ignition system (is there spark)=no. Tech finds that there IS spark coming from ignition Coil but not making it through the spark plugs. Tech notes: This vehicle has a distributor cap and high tension wires and they all appear to have age. Tech inspects distributor rotor and finds the electrodes to be all eroded away simply from age. Tech also notes the valve cover is leaking oil into the spark plug wells and oil is depositing there. Tech suggests Replace Distributor Cap/Rotor/Wires/Plugs to fix the no start, recommends replace valve cover gaskets to prevent future misfire problems, and recommends replace fuel filter as preventative maintenance. Customer says "I can't afford all that. Do the Cap and Rotor, no plugs no wires, and do the valve cover gaskets." Tech performs work and engine starts right up! Tech test drives and Vehicle performs well. One week later customer brings car back and says "my car sometimes dies when on a hill and you just fixed it!" Car is given back to Tech to inspect without pay, tech checks for OBD troubles codes finds none and takes car for test drive and no problems occur. Tech advises service writer "no problems with our previous repair are found and remember we were fixing Crank But No Start. This vehicle cranks and starts every single time. If the vehicle is dying on a hill, this is a separate problem for which i need to be paid another 1hour of Diag time." Customer becomes Irate. This situation was because the customer felt they spent a lot of money, but also wanted to pick and choose which of the tech's recommendations to follow. The customer doesn't understand that they are asking the tech to fix a secondary unrelated problem while he makes no paycheck. The customer would be happy to see the tech spend all day on their problem but the tech's time is his rent payment! A tech is only going to fix the problems the customer agreed to pay for and in this case that was the NO Start. Why do I get paid 34.50 per labor hour? Because I spent 20k on technician trade school. Because the shops who hire me do not supply tools and on average a tech will spend 50 to 75,000 dollars on the tools of his trade. Because these tool bills don't get paid by doing favors. Because Car manufacturers continue to make new designs which require more education and more special tools. Because of comeback situations, it is not always possible to book 10 hours in a day, some days im there 11hours but book 5.
I liked your videos. Please i need your help. What could cause rpm to go high on park and neutral? what could cause fuel rail pressure sensor in high rage? Could leak exhaust manifold causes it, cause have changed the oxygen sensors, throttle body sensor. please, help me out. My car is Kia carnival 2005 2.5L petrol engine automatic. obd codes are p1169, p0056, p0156, p0030. Thank you for your help.
You kept cleaning the mating surfaces. The only important part is the solenoid inside. Your valve was leaking obviously through the gasket even as it should not be so dirty at mating surfaces.
I cleared the code and it stayed off. I still ended up replacing the Intake Manifold gasket as is war sucking air and that leaned out the idle and improved the mileage. Regards, Bob
Just wanted to let you know, I did check the intake for leaks but there is no leaks. Do you think that this is the cause; www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-Lexus-Purge-Vacuum-Control-Solenoid-Valve-Unit-P-90910-12174-OEM/282821655544?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3Df50ef585a0dc463494882753d2c5b2d5%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D263876997990%26itm%3D282821655544&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Ab3632836-a4f6-11e8-9968-74dbd18071fc%7Cparentrq%3A5aa3d6031650a99bea72de7bffff8fb5%7Ciid%3A1
I wish somebody would help me I still can't find out where the crankshaft positioning sensor is on a 2000 Oldsmobile Alero V6 engine and it's driving me nuts I thought it would be must be behind the starter but it's not visual I'm going to have to call the dealer tomorrow I guess
Honey bear check online for the position, if you do any repairs on your vehicles I highly recommend getting a Haynes Manual for your car, it tells you all the techniques, pieces and locations for a full take down of your entire car. I got a like new Haynes manual for my car and my jeep for $10 or less. Autozone they're 25 new. I don't worry about new because I get oil and grease on the books when I'm working. These are definitely life saver books, tells you things like what bolts are reversed threaded, what small hidden screw needs to be turned to remove a part. Well worth the 10 bucks. 🐻✊
Hi . My engine light is still on after i changed the EGR valve . Do i have to take the car to a service for updating the system so maybe than the engine light will go off?
The best place to find auto parts is on line, Ebay moters, good stuff, If you do side to go auto parts place, dont call just one, three would be the OK. Make a choice then, Intell next time, Auto
Hot MAF should NOT be cleaned with carb cleaner as it will leave residue on wire what will cause problems in long run......always use something what will not leave residue
Hey guys have that problem I change EGR valve yesterday for the brand new one and it's driving real rough and misting but I haven't drove up to Hundred Miles yet do y'all think after I would drive my math to computer reset it's for a Chrysler 300 anyone know about cars should I let me know I've got guys my number. Give me a call
IF YOU WANT TO REMOVE ALL POWER, TAKE THE POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLES. CROSS THEM AND TOUCH TOGETHER THEM, FOR A MINUTE AND THAT WILL CANCEL THE ENERGY FROM THE VEHICLE
MAF code is there because the EGR is open... It's a related code beceause the airflow is distorded by the egr and the air leak. A code is nog a part that is in defect, it's a wrong measerment of a sensor. Differance between a parts changer and a dignostic tech.... Sorry for my spelling , i'm dutch.
yEAH, WHEN YOU GET YOUR CLOTHES DIRTY YOU DONT THROW THEM AWAY AND GO BUY NEW ONES 😉 bUT car mechanics would still try to talk you into it for money if they could...lol. I think there needs to be some type cleaner to put into your gas, maybe, that cleans parts 😁tHOUGH i THINK THERE MAY BE SOME, i JUST DONT KNOW HOW WELL THEY WORK!
One thing I do if taking loose or putting on a bolt or nut in a tight spot is to place enough tape (masking tape, duct tape, whatever) sticky side out , inside the socket to hold the nut in place while starting it (or removing it). I'm a subscriber on your pen site and didn't know about this one..... so had to subscribe also. Thanks for the video !
That is a great tip, thank you. I also appreciate the sub on both sides.
Regards,
Bob
bought a new egr valve because I didn't know you could clean them and it could fix it. but found one online for $30. if it wasn't for these RUclips videos I'd spend hundreds of dollars at a garage. thanks for sharing your videos
+Chad Childress Thank you Chad.
Regards,
Bob
sooo true, sometimes cleaning valve will not stop code from disappearing. I too had to just buy the valve cost under $30. Some oil change shop charges $299+ for "cleaning egr valve"
Amphone a
@@walkingzombi33 cleaning it on an 07 3.3l caravan will stop the 404 and 406 code but not the electric 403
On a Ford, if you get EGR codes, replace the Charcoal canister purge valve. If you get codes about oxygen sensor running rich and lean, replace the MAP sensor. If you're getting vacuum to the EGR at idle, replace the purge valve if it has one. If the engine idles smoother with the vacuum hose removed, it's something upstream from the EGR valve. If you apply vacuum to the EGR with a Mityvac at idle, the engine should run rough. If it doesn't, the passage under the EGR could be clogged. Short trip driving can cause it.
Thank you Marty, this is excellent information and I hope Ford owners finds it and it helps them diagnose an issue.
Regards,
Bob
WhatchaDoinBob My Snap-on scanner has a Troubleshooting menu and THAT'S how I fixed my car! Otherwise I would've replaced parts and not fix it. Snap-on scanners are useful on OBDI and some OBD II. E-Bay has them.
Thanks guys for sharing, saved my A.. several times over the years. Great Medi
Thank you.
Great video - Just a helpful hint, Instead of dropping those bolts, try put a magnet on your socket shaft. Solution = stop dropping bolts. You might also consider wire-wheeling the threads on those bolts then using a little anti-seize on the threads. It'll make a world of difference next time you need to remove it.
Thank you Todd,
Both are great ideas.
Regards,
Bob
loctite
@@bjrnpoulsen6782 I don't think I'd want to use Loctite on a bolt I might need to remove one day.
@@haleiwahi27 on the socket in order not to loose bolts and nuts when disassembling and reassembling just a small drop i allso used to tape the extensions and socket its up to you if u like fishing and have plenty time
Your welcome sir. I have to let other people fix for me, on the road a lot so no place to do the work. Videos like yours helps me "guide" the technicians in the repairs.
Keep it up!
Thank you.
You know what I've found to work on heavy carbon or grease removal. OVEN CLEANER. And let it soak for maybe 10 - 15 minutes. You'll be surprised how clean and easy it makes the job.
You’d be surprised how sulfuric acid burns my asshole
Kinda stands to reason, now that ya mention it...
Manuel Ester hahahaha
@@haxbtc758 Nooo, not the culo!
A little MMO or WD40 to liquify the carbon first helps the oven cleaner do it’s job faster. You’ll also use less of the oven cleaner (lye), which can be hard on aluminum- lots of water to flush all the crud & chemical out.
A leaking intake manifold gasket will likely allow coolant to leak into the engine oil. Most times, you will not notice this until one of two things take place....1) your engine light come on. or 2) you routinely check your fluids as I do and you find abnormal conditions taking place that require further inspection. I was fortunate to have caught a leaking intake manifold early. I can tell you that replacing intake manifold gaskets on a van is the most painful exercise you can go through! Any DIY can do it, just don't begin to think its a one day job only! I have no trust in garages and dealerships doing what is necessary for long term performance. I did my own at my pace and very thorough!!!! Eight years later, I still have an excellent performing engine passing all government emissions testing and still going strong on the road.
What kind of vehicle is it???
GMC Safari 4.3 v6
Only SOME vehicles have intake manifolds that also have coolant channels. The 4.3 liter is one of them. Did it on my Astro van. MAJOR effort and learning curve. Took days but I also upgraded injectors and other stuff. Saved some big $$.
Thank you.
Great thinking on the MAP diagnosis, it makes perfect sensor
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
Thank you very much for this video, Bob. Just may save myself some money.
When I put nuts in a socket of a socket wrench and have to aim the open end of the socket downward, using plumbers putty or wet chewing gum (can be wetted with clean water if preferred) in the socket with the nut keeps the nut from falling out. Hoping this will save lots of trouble, especially for those times when there is no room to stick a finger down with the end of the socket to hold the nut in .
Thank you James,
Great til on the socket wrench.
Regards,
Bob
I replaced head gaskets, lower intake manifold gasket, valve cover gaskets, fuel injector o-rings, exhaust manifold gaskets, and the plenum gaskets on a 99 3.1liter for 40 dollars. got the gasket kit without the head bolts for $32 ordered through eBay. everything was right except the plenum gaskets. so for $7 at O'Reilly's she was done. ran like new for about 100 miles then I got a Egr error code. (don't remember the wording for the code). I pulled the valve off and it looked pretty good to be 20 years old! 😊 but it was sticking....been running good for a while now. the engine parts were easy, it was the dang plug wire boots stuck on the plugs, rewrapping most of the wiring harness (it just disintegrated from heat and time), making my own fuel line tool to remove the lines, and of course the egr valve sticking........little things like that which takes more time. but if you don't need the car for a couple days and can work at a pace, its worth it. moms car wasn't worth much before, but it only had 120,000 on it over 20 years. I wouldn't feel bad about selling it now....after I drive it a little first since I did save a ton of money.😊
You did a boat load of work. I’ll bet it was a job but well worth it for that kind of money. I’ll bet the engine runs smooth too. Thank you for sharing.
Regards,
Bob
3.0
love the way you explain the problems and DO YOUR RESEARCH thank you ill be doing the clean up tonight!
Thank you Kevin.
Regards,
Bob
yes sir, there are places that ppl can get their EGR cleaning service done that cost more to clean it. Back then its $299 to clean egr valve. But i remember i replace mine on my ford explorer and the valve itself was only less then $30. Anything a shop service is over price cause they in business to generate profit.
Let's not call that a profit but a livelihood.
Means the same, but sounds a lot better.
Holland (The Netherlands?, uhmm Amsterdam?) has been DIY country for decades.
You have to become a jack of all trades to get by.
In a way that is a bit cheap.
Okay, thrifty.
Frugal?
That is because of labour price per hour.
I meet a lot of Indians and they just know someone who can do it
for them. In and around the house.
That is because there are lots of people waiting in line just to make
a few pennies.
😃
Good idea cleaning the EGR valve. A lot of people are not aware of that. But, when you clean it, next time, as a suggestion use Q -tips to clean not only the valve but the housing as well. You shouldn't use metal to clean it. The throttle cleaner is great. You should give it a few hours to sit. Allow the solution to settle. To better clean out the carbon
Thank you James.
Regards,
Bob
Lol but the repair shops are so so busy, people love to spend their money to not have to think about it. This man has discovered what every home mechanic knows, its an interesting time in any home mechanics life, reality is fun. Now auto repair places provide a valuable service but we can save so much money by doing it ourselves.
Thank you.
whenever you are taking off these hard to get screws/ nuts, you could easily get to'em by putting a single or double piece of a small paper inside the socket and then put in your hardware there - just push it 👌
also, whenever you are servicing an egr valve that you need to remove, replace the base gasket with a new one bc it may leak out - if it is for testing, civer it with indian head shellack, if not available use silicon or grease at least
atst, when cleaning with any chemicals/ aerosols the orifices of the egr valve, use penetrating oil to make the pintle traveling experience a hit 🤗
that is the way its performed at a repair facility 👍
Thank you, great advise.
Regards,
Bob
It's the unburnt fuel that gets forced by the piston rings and into the crank case. It's then recirculated through that system and returned into the combustion chamber.
Thank you Carlyle.
Regards,
Bob
Great , logical and clear video closeups thanks
Thank you,
I appreciate that.
Regards,
Bob
The intake manifold in my car is a pain to replace. I think I've got carbon buildup in my ports, which is very common for a Honda. I'm just doing everything I can to clean the ports without taking them apart right now. The EGR valve is in a tight spot with my car. I was able to get to the bolts with a regular extension the first time, but this is the only time I ever used my wobble extensions on subsequent cleanings. It makes the job much easier because they can offer that slight bend. The EGR valve is so simple to get off now. I can take it off in probably 2-3 minutes. The magnetic pickup tool has been really useful with this as well.
Use CRC GDI intake cleaner, after it heat soaks it will run great as long as you dont have a vacuum leak at the intake manifold. A vacuum leak will just spray it out at any vacuum leak not doing a proper cleaning. It cost $13 a can, but worth every penny. Also Chevron Techron super concentrate fuel additive works realy well cleaning carbon deposits, even on your intake valves. It's the only fuel additive that ford motor company recemends for its GDI engines. Both these cleaners will give your car new life and much more engine performance. I was surprised by these two cleaners, i could feel the power in my veins after going for a test ride!
There is something that can be used to break up that carbon build up thus making your honda run hella better bro. You can also use mystry oil auto zone advance wal mart dollar general napa sell it. Comes in red bottle it can be used in two applications on vehicle. One use is in the fuel an other is pour it in oil an it cleans n keeps all the parts in great condition from use as treatment with oil an fuel. I use it in my Zx7r 750 as well my Saab and i now use it in my BMW X5 SAV truck.
carbon build up is exceptionally common for any vehicle with an egr valve, due to it breathing its own soot, imagine if they stuck a pipe from your nose to your backside.... best thing for an egr is a blanking plate. (if legal in your area)
Thank you.
Make sure to use a good sealant on the new egr gasket, old permatex part 2B is good enough. Take a little trip to Home Depot or Lowe's, get a magnet washer from their screws/nuts/bolts isle, that way I don't have to hold a nut where my fingers won't fit!
Thank you Don.
Regards,
Bob
When you are removing mechanical or electronic parts with multiple screws or bolts to break loose; break loose the first just enough to loosen and then each other one the same; then, finish taking all the bolts loose. When you leave one bolt tight you are risking bending or cracking a part.
Thank you.
Busy Busy...Bob always busy....hope you get her running like a top soon.
+Robert Evans Thank you Robert,
I hope so too. I'd like to stretch a few more miles out of it. I always joked I was going to get half a million.
Regards,
Bob
Normally it is easy to just clean the Mass Airflow Sensor. That normally fixes that problem. Cleaning the EGR Valve is the thing to do. To take it off, spray it down with Carb Cleaner helps. But it is best to let it soak and then scrub it with an old toothbrush. Then spray it out with Carb Cleaner, let it dry and reinstall using a NEW Gasket.
Thank you Dave.
Regards,
Bob
Now I know why I quite rebuilding engines many years ago. Messy work.......! On those places where you can't get your fingers in to hold the nut in the socket, you can put a small dab of heavy grease around the nut, then put the nut in the socket and the grease will hold the nut 'till you get it on the stud.
+Tarry Frey Great tip, thank you Tarry.
Regards,
Bob
awsome tip ty
I have used a piece of plastic wrap, or newsprint to hold it in the socket, but I will try the grease trick next time!
Thanks Bob. I'm going to attempt this on my Isuzu Trooper. It looks simple enough for me to do.
+Melissa Moses Best of luck.
Regards,
Bob
You are in the right track... keep reading.
Thank you.
Pcv valve also will throw off sensors. Check clean or replace
Thank you.
My take on your trouble is that all your problems originated from the intake manifold air leak, that will allow unmetered (and unfiltered) air into the cylinders and causes conflicts in the MAF and MAF sensor feedback, this will result in the ECU not knowing how to react properly with regards to fuel trim. (causing poor gas mileage) and setting the MIL to come on.
Always resolve air or vacuum leaks first then reset the ECU.
Thank you Ricky.
Regards,
Bob
Keep it a secret guys but when I turn a wrensh gotta have that dub d40 blue torch handy . Its like magic on them nutts and bolts just between us .
😃
Here is a tip on holding the nut inside the socket...wedge a piece of paper inside the socket then the nut....or a dab of grease..
Great tip George, thank you.
Grease=choice #1 spit = choice #2
Just a word about getting the nuts off and on , in a in tight places, use heavy greese to hold it into place, install in socket push nut or bolt in to socket will stay put intell removed or installed, clean off greese in tell next time, Auto
Great tip Michael, thank you.
Regards,
Bob
90% of all egr valves and pcv valves just need cleaning and they can serve forever . Just soak it overnight with good carburetor cleaner .do not soak electronic part of egr though :) as far as gasket goes there good products to try like ATP 205 seal or flex seal
You could get it fixed for less than $10 total :)
Thank you.
Nice Video, thanks for sharing Bob.
Thank you Al,
Regards,
Bob
You might need to check your throttle body also spray some of that B12 spray to clean your throttle body and kind of give it some gas while you spraying it in there and that'll make it run a whole lot smoother also
Thank you John.
Regards,
Bob
Nice video bro I was sold on cleaning the EGR valve
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
a bit of blutac on the nut will keep it attached to the socket and you wont loose it down the engine
That is a good tip. Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
Watching you cleaning the EGR.VALVE with a tooth brush.reminds me of my sister..when she was using my tooth brush to clean the inside of a toilet.with out having an idea it was my own tooth brush....she caught me sucking up.my tooth brush after I had just happilly. Had brush my. Teeth...she went crazy...i just said
..so.....why .you used it. And not asking who it belonged to....1984. Memories southern California .L.A....NOV.2020
That’s a great story Tommy. Thank you for sharing.
Regards,
Bob
Two summers ago my pick up would barely run . The guy at the garage check it and told me the knock sensor was bad . And it was under the intake manifold . I told him to change it . The next day he called and told me it didn't fix the problem . He said they check it again and it was the distributor. Long story short I got a bill for 1480. bucks . I wish I have changed it myself .
+Glen mckelvey Ouch!
That's what I'm trying to avoid.
Regards,
Bob
If you can get a bit of tape on the bolt it stops it from falling out of the socket.
Thank you Luke.
Regards,
Bob
No problem.
If manifold gasket leaks, could it be the torqued bolts working loose; retorque OR apply gasket maker to suspect leak area/s and torque tight.? Maybe ?
Thank you Peter.
Regards,
Bob
Lots of times the EGR will cause additional codes. It is part of how the engine "breathes", so if it can't exhale, (exhaust,) then you can get some back pressure and cause other codes. Also, never, never, try to reuse a gasket. It is a false economy. The gasket on the EGR is exposed to exhaust, at temperature, and in the video you clearly see the word "FUEL" on a sticker. At the very least, you could heat the fuel and it becomes a gas instead of a liquid, and you vapor lock. at the worst, the car could burn up. Gaskets are cheap, relatively, compared to a car. Cleaning the EGR is possible and could save you a ton. Also another thing, sometimes the after market sensors don't play well with the engine management systems. Don't know why, went through 2 MAF sensors and finally bought the OEM and problem went away. Go figure.
Excellent advise John,
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
EGR woes can definitely cause a rough engine - especially near idle. Vacuum leaks? Not really - fuel trim [long term] will go positive to compensate, and engine still runs smooth.
I can tell by the sound your ratchet is American made Last of the true Sear Craftsman Tools. I'm willing to bet you have a Sears Red Roll Around Craftman tool chest.
'There Was More For Your Life At Sears" Sears I miss you.
You’re close,
I have a black roll around Craftsman tool check. 😀
Regards,
Bob
Manual cleaning is best 👌
Thank you Darren,
Regards,
Bob
If you use a little grease in your socket that should help hold the nut in tight places.
Great tip, thank you.
Regards,
Bob
EGR can trip the code for an intake manifold leak if it is stuck open.
Thank you for the information.
Regards,
Bob
Odd parts list for an egr code. Wait on MAF sensor replacement until other repairs complete.
Thank you.
You don not want to use a brass brush but you use a screwdriver on the valve! You are damaging the seat. Anyway, thank you for your tips.
That's what I was thinking omg🤦♂️
😃
Thank very much for your video
Thank you.
Rockauto .com. U could buy oem parts for a 1/4 of the a dealer or Oreilly part or Autozone.
i don't fuck with dealers so maybe you're right about that but it's not 1/4 Autozone or O'Reily's. I have Amazon prime so if you figure RockAuto's shipping charges it's pretty much the same price and I get it in 1-2 days instead of 3-5
Thank you.
Bob, try a little rare earth magnet attached to the socket extension to hold that nut.
Looking forward to chapter 2. JimE
+blackemmons Great tip, thank you.
Regards,
Bob
blackemmons f d
Great video, thanks!
Thank you.
where's part 2 Bob??? did you get to the parts store and back? Was she running rough? I would have put just a little squirt of blaster in that EGR just for good measure.
I got the car running well then purchased a new ceviche and sold this one to a guy at work. He daily’s it and it’s in the parking lot today.
I thought carb cleaner can destroy the MAF sensor. A lot of people say that, even if other people say they got away with it.
Hello Adam,
I really don’t know. If it will, then I got lucky.
Regards,
Bob
@@WhatchaDoinBob And I heard a lot of people say they use brake cleaner, as a cheap alternative to MAF sensor cleaner.
after done cleaning fill on top of valve to make sure it is sealing
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
attach a magnet above the socket with the extension or put a piece of paper in side the socket sometimes the nut dropped never can be founf
Great tips, thank you.
Regards,
Bob
good diagnosis ,makes good sensor
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
Thank you for your time kind sir!
Thank you.
Can this way apply to Chevy Lacetti 2007 EGR valve
Thanks
I’m not familiar with that car or it’s engine.
Regards,
Bob
WhatchaDoinBob
Thanks
I would of cleaned it upright in the air, so the shit is not falling back inside, anyhow good vid.
😃
Your poor fuel economy is probably because when the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) is illuminated something may be preventing the system from entering Closed-Loop status. During coldt startup, the ECM is using readings from the MAF or MAP or both to compare to preprogrammed data tables to determine how much fuel to give the engine. Once the Engine Coolant Temp sensor tells the ECM that the engine has reached operating temperature, the ECM will enter Closed-Loop mode. Now the ECM is using feedback from the upstream O2 sensors to determine the Actual engine fuel needs and this method is much more accurate at achieving as close to stoichiometric Air/Fuel mixture as possible. Stoichiometric provides the best efficiency. there are several things that can prevent your ECM from entering closed loop no, something as simple as a bad/inaccurate ECT sensor or a stuck open thermostat. Either one of those may not turn on the engine light. You said they told you it has a MAP fault code. This does not actualy say its a bad sensor or if the sensor is detecting strange readings, so more info is needed. The intake leak they told you about, if large enough, may actually be allowing a vacuum leak does unmetered air is entering the manifold. This causes a lean condition and likely can be seen with a scan tool in your LTFT (long term fuel trim) as the ECM is trying to compensate by dumping in additional fuel.
It looked like you have a 3.8L. and I'm not sure if you mentioned the engine size and year or if I missed it. Up to a certain year those engines commonly had intake leak problems, supposedly they corrected this in the manufacturing process but that doesn't mean it can't happen any more. When they said you have an intake leak, most likely they are not talking about the plastic intake manifold on top. If you try to do this job yourself and you change the upper intake plenum gasket, you're going to still have the problem. The intake leak affecting those 3.X litre engines is generally the lower intake manifold. There are two portions to the intake upper and lower. Changing the lower intake gasket is a rather involved job. That's not saying you can't do it, but if done incorrectly, thats a lot of time wasted and those gaskets aren't reusable. When the lower intake manifold leaks you will see coolant leaking. Sometimes you'll see it towards the front of the engine near the serpentine belt area, and sometimes you'll see it collecting on top of your transaxle. Sometimes if it's really bad you'll see both. There is a very simple test you can do to see how bad this leak is. If you have a small handheld propane torch, turn on the gas and do not ignite it. Run your engine at idle and trace the areas of the lower intake manifold with the gas nozzle. The idea here is that if there is an intake manifold leak, engine vacuum is going to suck in combustible gas and the engine RPMs will change suddenly. 😁
Thank you Kirk,
This was a well thought out and thorough comment which has given me quite a lot to think about.
Regards,
Bob
@K i r k H 4 2 0 Too much, too much, Kirk. Guy isnt a mechanic. Also, carb cleaner is alot easier to use for vacuum leaks.
You do realize you dont actually have to take the small plate off just take off the part and spray it inside the hole of valve tell it smoothly easy move in and out,then let it dry about 1 or 2
I guess Im asking the wrong place but does anybody know of a tool to log back into an instagram account?
I somehow forgot the password. I appreciate any help you can give me
@Cayden Lance Instablaster ;)
@Julio Justice i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and im in the hacking process atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Julio Justice It did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thanks so much, you really help me out !
@Cayden Lance Happy to help :)
What did the diagnostic test cost you, Bob?
It was free at O’Rileys.
You didn't clean the EGR ports on the engine, does should be sprayed and gunk removed too. I didn't see you replace the EGR valve gasket . Otherwise every informative video, thanks
😃
Would be nice to know what kinda car your working on.
99’ Pontiac Grand Prix, 3800 Series II
@@WhatchaDoinBob cool beans... good job!
I just called my garage and he wants $350 to replace the EGR valve. he's probably cleaning it and calling it a day with my money in his pocket.
Wow! That seems steep.
I went to a garage and they wanted $400! I said no that's way too much and start looking at videos to figure out how to fix it myself.
RebeccaRivera22 most likely yes. That Bunko Artist!
RUclips is the BEST, AMAZING....
Rebecca,
For that price he's replacing the valve. I don't like when people just assume that every auto tech is trying to rape your wallet. You don't supply enough information for anyone to determine whether or not that is a valid price. Listening to any one of the people who have said that that is a steep price would be foolish. Those people are pulling answers out of their B-holes. If you supply the year make and model and 8th letter of your VIN code, then and only then can a person provide you with better answers. Depending on where you're EGR is located the industry standard labor guide is going to determine how much time the technician will be paid to do your job. The only people who understand how automotive technicians get paid, unfortunately, are us automotive technicians! When I clock in at work I am not getting paid! If you come to my shop and flag me down and asked me to put air in your tire... And subsequently begin asking me a bunch of questions about your car, I am essentially standing there earning $0 per hour while you waste my time. Flat rate technicians only earn money when they perform a labor operation on your car. With the appropriate information on your make and model, a technician will go into a resource such as AllData where it will show "EGR Valve R&R = 1.5hours." It will often also say "labor time is for Remove & Replace only. For cleaning add 0.2hours (12minutes)." Not all EGR valves are on top and easy to access as this guy's video shows. Regardless if your tech sold you a new part or cleaned the old one, you still must pay him for the R&R labor. Generally if the part is very difficult to get access to and the labor is high because of this, the tech will wisely opt to sell you a brand new part. Cleaning an EGR Pintle is something that One can try, but the Stepper Motor could be malfunctioning. Cleaning the EGR is like guess-work..... Maybe it fixes it, maybe it doesn't. For this reason, Technicians usually DON'T clean them. You see there is one thing we Professional Mechanics fear most..... Comebacks! If your tech tried to clean your EGR and told you he installed a new one, not only is that theft but he is risking having the job Comeback. Just so you know Shops do not compensate technicians for working on Comebacks. Most often when you had a repair done and then you bring it back because you think something isn't right or the problem happened again..... That same technician is pulled away from jobs that are paying him so that he can work on your car earning no paycheck. This Flat-Rate pay system encourages techs to do the best work possible the first time.
Most Professional Mechanics care about Your car and they are genuinely trying to give you good results. We aren't out to screw people because this our livelihood and peoples Idiot opinions combined with internet Yelp reviews done by people who get butthurt when they paid for One problem to be diagnosed and fixed but then the car still has unrelated problems which the shop says they must charge more to repair. These things negatively affect our business and income. For example: customer states car Cranks but does not Start. Technician gets 1hour of Diag time. That's one hour of pay regardless if the problem takes 4 hours to find! Tech runs tests on fuel system=ok. Tech tests Ignition system (is there spark)=no. Tech finds that there IS spark coming from ignition Coil but not making it through the spark plugs. Tech notes: This vehicle has a distributor cap and high tension wires and they all appear to have age. Tech inspects distributor rotor and finds the electrodes to be all eroded away simply from age. Tech also notes the valve cover is leaking oil into the spark plug wells and oil is depositing there. Tech suggests Replace Distributor Cap/Rotor/Wires/Plugs to fix the no start, recommends replace valve cover gaskets to prevent future misfire problems, and recommends replace fuel filter as preventative maintenance. Customer says "I can't afford all that. Do the Cap and Rotor, no plugs no wires, and do the valve cover gaskets." Tech performs work and engine starts right up! Tech test drives and Vehicle performs well. One week later customer brings car back and says "my car sometimes dies when on a hill and you just fixed it!" Car is given back to Tech to inspect without pay, tech checks for OBD troubles codes finds none and takes car for test drive and no problems occur. Tech advises service writer "no problems with our previous repair are found and remember we were fixing Crank But No Start. This vehicle cranks and starts every single time. If the vehicle is dying on a hill, this is a separate problem for which i need to be paid another 1hour of Diag time." Customer becomes Irate. This situation was because the customer felt they spent a lot of money, but also wanted to pick and choose which of the tech's recommendations to follow. The customer doesn't understand that they are asking the tech to fix a secondary unrelated problem while he makes no paycheck. The customer would be happy to see the tech spend all day on their problem but the tech's time is his rent payment! A tech is only going to fix the problems the customer agreed to pay for and in this case that was the NO Start.
Why do I get paid 34.50 per labor hour? Because I spent 20k on technician trade school. Because the shops who hire me do not supply tools and on average a tech will spend 50 to 75,000 dollars on the tools of his trade. Because these tool bills don't get paid by doing favors. Because Car manufacturers continue to make new designs which require more education and more special tools. Because of comeback situations, it is not always possible to book 10 hours in a day, some days im there 11hours but book 5.
EGR Gasket? didnt see it go back on?
+Charlie Leach Hello Charlie,
I may not have shown that in the video but it's there. She'd run like a tank if I left that out, LOL.
Regards,
Bob
Wha
I liked your videos. Please i need your help. What could cause rpm to go high on park and neutral? what could cause fuel rail pressure sensor in high rage? Could leak exhaust manifold causes it, cause have changed the oxygen sensors, throttle body sensor. please, help me out. My car is Kia carnival 2005 2.5L petrol engine automatic. obd codes are p1169, p0056, p0156, p0030. Thank you for your help.
Hello,
I am not a mechanic so I apologize but I do not know what is wrong with your car.
Regards,
Bob
I didn't see you replacing the gasket before reinstalling the EGR!
He put put it on below before
he cleaned the valve.
Not in the video.
Does he show the dashboard without an engine light on when he's done? Does he end up paying the mechanics??
No sir, I drove the car daily until a couple months ago when I sold it to a fella at work. He drives it every day.
You kept cleaning the mating surfaces. The only important part is the solenoid inside. Your valve was leaking obviously through the gasket even as it should not be so dirty at mating surfaces.
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
Yes. I found this odd as well. You're going to gouge the matting surface. Use a razor and please spend $4 for a new gasket.
Best cleaner
😃
what happened after you cleaned the EGR?
I cleared the code and it stayed off. I still ended up replacing the Intake Manifold gasket as is war sucking air and that leaned out the idle and improved the mileage.
Regards,
Bob
I have the same code P0401 and the it came back even though I cleaned the EGR.
Check the gasket, if it’s leaking air that can cause the error.
I will check that tomorrow, thank you.
Just wanted to let you know, I did check the intake for leaks but there is no leaks. Do you think that this is the cause; www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-Lexus-Purge-Vacuum-Control-Solenoid-Valve-Unit-P-90910-12174-OEM/282821655544?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3Df50ef585a0dc463494882753d2c5b2d5%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D263876997990%26itm%3D282821655544&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Ab3632836-a4f6-11e8-9968-74dbd18071fc%7Cparentrq%3A5aa3d6031650a99bea72de7bffff8fb5%7Ciid%3A1
So, did it fix it? He never said.
Yes it did.
Regards,
Bob
I wish somebody would help me I still can't find out where the crankshaft positioning sensor is on a 2000 Oldsmobile Alero V6 engine and it's driving me nuts I thought it would be must be behind the starter but it's not visual I'm going to have to call the dealer tomorrow I guess
I wish I could help but I’m not familiar with that engine at all.
CRANK SHAFT SENSOR FOR A 2.4 ENGINE NEXT TO OIL FILTER.FOR THE 3.1 - 3.4 ENGINES CRANK SHAFT SENSOR LOCATED BEHIND CRANKSHAFT PULLEY
Google it image of its exact location im sure there are plenty videos picture images even diagram pictures of that specific part that is eluding you.
Honey bear check online for the position, if you do any repairs on your vehicles I highly recommend getting a Haynes Manual for your car, it tells you all the techniques, pieces and locations for a full take down of your entire car. I got a like new Haynes manual for my car and my jeep for $10 or less. Autozone they're 25 new. I don't worry about new because I get oil and grease on the books when I'm working.
These are definitely life saver books, tells you things like what bolts are reversed threaded, what small hidden screw needs to be turned to remove a part. Well worth the 10 bucks. 🐻✊
Hi . My engine light is still on after i changed the EGR valve . Do i have to take the car to a service for updating the system so maybe than the engine light will go off?
Any auto parts store can reset the light. If it comes back on, have them read the codes to see if there is an additional issue.
Regards,
Bob
@@WhatchaDoinBob ok thank you for your help!
Replaced map and mass now i will clean the egr valve
😃
I use Berryman B12 Chemtool that shit can clean anything!! Soaked some pistons in that stuff for a day or two and they came out looking new
Thanks for the info, I haven’t used that product before but I’ll look for it next time I’m at the auto parts store.
Regards,
Bob
No gasket?
No.
Thanks
😃
what vehicle model and year is this? Gas or Diesel?
It was a 99 Pontiac Grand Prix. GM 3800 Series 2 gas engine. I’ve since sold the car.
Regards,
Bob
The best place to find auto parts is on line, Ebay moters, good stuff, If you do side to go auto parts place, dont call just one, three would be the OK. Make a choice then, Intell next time, Auto
Thank you Michael.
Regards,
Bob
Hot MAF should NOT be cleaned with carb cleaner as it will leave residue on wire what will cause problems in long run......always use something what will not leave residue
You can get mass air flow cleaner at any auto parts store. Do not use anything else,
It’s literally fine
Thank you.
Hey guys have that problem I change EGR valve yesterday for the brand new one and it's driving real rough and misting but I haven't drove up to Hundred Miles yet do y'all think after I would drive my math to computer reset it's for a Chrysler 300 anyone know about cars should I let me know I've got guys my number. Give me a call
😃
Don't reuse a old gasket invest for the Future not temporary
😃
smart move bob i paid a guy 1200 buck to do my EGR and i got ripped off and then did it myself
+Christopher Rogers Thank goodness for RUclips. I was worried about the cost then I watched a bunch of videos and saw how easy it was.
Regards,
Bob
@Christopher Rogers
Did you get ripped off or did you do it yourself?
One big goof here, you said the Intake Manifold is sucking a little bit of air? Well, yes, that would be CORRECT and a GOOD thing.
+Dan Lo Fat Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
Dont Replace the MAF sensor. Just clean it with MAF sensor cleaner.
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Great great information,I have a 96 Mercedes Benz S420,I'm gonna just get a price on the EGR repair,I'm just curious,great video my man...
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
Holy hell you could have saved money on the toothbrush just use your old one and just rinse it off when you're done
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Don't try to reuse the gasket.
It's a graphite gasket ,and will leak.
Thank you.
What car did you perform this to?
1999 Pontiac Grand Prix 3800 Series II.
Regards,
Bob
IF YOU WANT TO REMOVE ALL POWER, TAKE THE POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLES. CROSS THEM AND TOUCH TOGETHER THEM, FOR A MINUTE AND THAT WILL CANCEL THE ENERGY FROM THE VEHICLE
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
DYI-n-SAVE-FROM A-Z
MAF code is there because the EGR is open... It's a related code beceause the airflow is distorded by the egr and the air leak. A code is nog a part that is in defect, it's a wrong measerment of a sensor.
Differance between a parts changer and a dignostic tech....
Sorry for my spelling , i'm dutch.
Thank you Lars.
Regards,
Bob
So did it clear the code for the egr???
Yes. I did have to to the clear procedure from the manual but the code did not come back.
That's what I wanted to know, too...
what car are you working on
99’ Pontiac Grand Prix 3800 Series II.
Will do this tomorrow
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clean with xylene works instantly
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
yEAH, WHEN YOU GET YOUR CLOTHES DIRTY YOU DONT THROW THEM AWAY AND GO BUY NEW ONES 😉 bUT car mechanics would still try to talk you into it for money if they could...lol. I think there needs to be some type cleaner to put into your gas, maybe, that cleans parts 😁tHOUGH i THINK THERE MAY BE SOME, i JUST DONT KNOW HOW WELL THEY WORK!
Thank you Lara.
Regards,
Bob
Spray into the valve wait a while spray and scrap with plastic or wood , not metal
Thank you Peter.
Regards,
Bob
MAF cleaner is 10$ and will clean the EGR too.
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