Very well done ! I really like how you coated the tank interior to prevent rust from forming.... THAT is great thinking !! Keep up outstanding work and thanks for posting !
Man just use a 5 ft metal pipe that you slide over the hande of a pipe wrench and a 4 or 5 ft crowbar stuck between the handle of the tank . You tilt the propane tank completely on the side so when you use the extended pipe wrench , both crowbar an pole of wrench should make an x shape . You setup yourself so you either drop all your weight on the wrench downward while having a feet on the crowbar to secure it more . Other 180 degree the valve give you problem you lift up , nit that shoult be easy once you droped all the tork using your weigh the first time.Proper placement you shouldnt even wear yourself at all , no muscular force needed than carring all that metal around. The 5 ft x shape tool placement acts like a 5ft 3 wooden beam winch.. yea that old hamish trick using 3 trees and rope to drag a barn using one person.
A suggestion. Lay the 2 x 4 on the ground and pull your car or truck onto it to vise it in place so you won't have to wrestle with it so much. Thanks for the good video.
A 100% full propane tank in the desert southwest would experience 120F heat in the summer months. That would raise the pressure to around 240psi. That same tank in the winter would have a pressure of 102psi at 60F. The standard is to test them to 2x the service pressure or about 480psi. I believe the service pressure is about 220 psi (test to 440 psi). Most people don't have the equipment to pump a tank to the required test pressures. Your tank could fail at 125 psi (the max limit of most home compressors). Please note that I couldn't find anything online that gives exact numbers, but these should be close.
I have a degree in physics and 60 years' experience with propane tanks. This is a great presentation and I learned from it. There are some things that you can teach an old dog.
I did this with a 7 gallon butane tank. Went well. One thing to note, 7 gallons of water plus the tank itself...Got some gravity to it! I have another 20 gallon bottle I haven't worked up the courage to convert yet!
Looks like the pressure rating of these tanks is good enough for typical compressed-air use. There's a nice valve-removal tool at "Propane tank valve removal Method 3 Make a tool! Easy DIY Project!". Can add a drain fitting by drilling a hole and welding a suitable nut on the bottom (before painting the inside!). Water is always a problem with compressed air - it can't hold as much water as atmospheric-pressure air, so once it cools off after coming out of the compressor you'll get condensation in the tank and hoses. Water-separators here and there help.
The best idea is to put them upside down so the water will not sit in the tank i have 2 of the TALL kind with 2 slanted L bend's going into a small stainless steel tank so i can drain water wen needed, i hope you fined this helpfull!
@ZstripeW All 20 pound propane tanks I've seen have a standard 3/4" NPT pipe fitting, the same as home heating natural gas line. A good hardware store will stock everything you need. The tee connects to some standard adapters to reduce the size to match the valve and compressed air fitting. The best way to make the adapter is to build it up at the hardware store, it's much easier to figure out what you need with the parts in front of you.
I will add a Pressure Gauge to the "T" fitting and a small Drain Valve to the bottom of the tank, to drain off condensation ,when I build my Tank. Good instructions. Thanks!.
After you attach that 2x4 {with the long part in the direction of the force (the direction you have to turn the valve to get it out - lefty losey, righty tightey} , lay it flat on the floor OR ground, it is easier to control. Yeah, do it outside. Leave it hole side down a few hours. Then you can rinse it and air dry and whatever. That stink is very persistent and I think it is 3/4 inch pipe thread also. I definitely would pressure test it longer than a few seconds and certainly not in my shop where failure would be somewhat disruptive to it. However my compressor maxes out a 150 but even then failure would smart a bit. Having complained enough, I think he done good, a bit less safety orientated but generally real good.
One thing about air compressors, its not all about capacity, its also about the pumps ability to produce volume. Don't expect that tiny pump on that little tank to last long with the addition of this tank, your causing it to go far over it's service factor. I can make a 1 gallon tank run a DA sander for hours at full volume non-stop...With the right pump and a motor with a continuous duty cycle, correct HP and a SF of 1.15 at least.
If you take the handle off the valve a piece of square tubing will fit over it. Lay the 2x and tank on it's side and park a car tire on it and you can use a pipe wrench or ??? on the square tubing and easily get the valve out.
I made a tool for revalving tanks. I took a section of pipe that fit over the body of the valve and cut two slots in it so the outlet and the relief valve stick out either side. on the other end I drilled two holes to put a metal rod to turn it with. Very efective.
I make almost the exact same thing. I just used a large pipe wrench to loosen the valve. Stuck a 1" pipe through the carrying handles to keep the tank from turning. Works great.
If you want to do it right, yes you need to remove the valve. Removing the valve allows you to wash out the tank to help get rid of the smell, as well as coat the inside with rust resistant paint. The paint will make this tank last a lot longer.
More info, if you use the old grill tube connector, you need to drill out the central tiny orfice. You can also on the existing tank valve unscrew the liquid level float or just leave it on. All of this is just obvious if your handy.
sounds like a refidgerant compressor he is using for the 400 psi. he uses that compressor for an air cannon so not a regular compressor. also from what I have seen he uses gas pipe fittings to retro fit the tank.
I would suggest mounting the tee connector 90 degrees from what you have. I put the input nipple and valve coming in the top and the output out the side.
Most people that aren't the DIY or mechanically interested type just go and buy whatever they need, without thinking of making their own for cheaper. I personally love making or trying to make my own stuff. I built a DIY pressure pot sandblaster out of an old 8 gallon air compressor. Loved the building process, it turned out great!
Soap and water DOES NOT remove all the propane. The pressure forces gas into the metal. What you did is OK if no heat is applied. If heat is applied by using a torch to cut the bottle (not sure about sitting in hot sun), the propane comes out of the metal, mixes with air, and can CAUSE THE TANK TO EXPLODE, if ignited by the torch. This comes from a lawyer who has handled several exploded tank law suits, and an expert witness.
@crashcyberdrive No pressure, no worries...there's no oxygen inside, it can't burn...also, I said to heat the thread, not set it on fire, the 80-120°C needed to loosen the epoxy is nowhere near ignition temperature...
Im doing the same thing At this very moment im in my garage emptying my propane tank, outside obviously, and just waiting for the tank to empty out And at the same time im learning how to make an auxiliary tank for my compressor 😄
When I was wrenching in the early 80s, Snap-On sold a kit with adapter, gauge, hose and fittings for around $ 30. Valve off, adapter on, fill, use. We didn't have time for all this fuss. 😜
Could anybody tell me details of fittings? I have 11KG tank and i took valve out, it seems it has 1inch tread! what kind of couplings and fittings should i get? Thanks in advance
Just advice for the future or anyone who reads this and plans in doin this. That’s not a good way to check for pressure.... there is a little flat blade bleeder screw on the side of the valve. Use a screwdriver that fits it well and loosen it. If that doesn’t work then try his method but I’d personally try the bleeder screw first
Some Freon tanks have oddball fittings. I have trouble finding a fitting to go on a 1/4" flared male coming out of the tank. I want to adapt it to 3/8 NPT. Darn.
@killer2600 overheat?! With what? I never said to use an oxyacetylene torch, a simple heat gun will do, it also doesn't have just enough power to gently heat it...
When you made the adapter, what size and type of fittings did you use? I'm interested especially in the fitting that screwed directly into the tank and the "T".
To get the tap out you can get it really warm with a heat gun to char the threadlock. Just don't use a blow torch unless it's a cylinder that contained a non flammable/Non oxidising gas, so only use a naked flame for stuff like argon or CO2 cylinders. Also, try not to heat up the tank too much.
Why did you not just adapt the existing valve to work with the tank? It has a builtin safety pressure relief of several hundred psi and has a valve on top. All It would need is the tube and nut from an old grill and I have seen those on sale at Lowes in the brass fitting section.
Great job, but all you need to hold the tank is a good rod through the handle while removing the valve. I am currently converting a 100 gal a fat boy propane tank. I am putting a 5 HP motor and compressor on the top of it. Cheers
Did you watch the video to the end?? Let's see: taking the valve off some elbow grease, some time, one 2x4 broken at the end, welding the fitting (using electricity,welding rod or wire) drying the tank 48 hr running the fan,paint to coat the inside, more fan running to dry the inside, varius fittings, the cost of the tank, time spend building it. A 13 gal tank is on average 35$ at an hardware store. He spend more than that to build it for sure.
Yeah they love that... when you tear open the packages! (Did it today at HDepot!) Can you do the math for me on volume? I have a 4" square tube bumper (3/16 wall), that is 56" long. What is my internal volume of air? (and what would max safe pressure be? -assuming all welds are valid and strong) Thanks... -Steve
Should have done the pressure test when removing the last of the propane from the tank. That way if it had failed you would not invested the paint or time into it.
neat. 1. Use a torch to heat the base of the brass valve to breakdown/degrade the threadlock and it comes out much easier. 2. You didn't mention what size threaded fitting to connect the T fitting to the tank.
There is a better way of holding a cylinder & that is by having two pipes and a loop of nylon or strong rope. The loop ois put round the cylinder so that the pipes can be put through the loop on opposite sides pressure is then applied to the ends of the two pipes but of course it's better with two folks.
That seems like a waste of a flammable gas that could instead be used for heating/soldering/brazing/cutting metal or barbequing or other combustion purposes. But nonetheless an interesting use. I've also seen people charge their refrigeration systems (central units) using propane, since it is in fact a refrigerant.
I have no idea how much torque you were able to pull on a crescent wrench but I doubt it was more than 100 Ft. lbs. I'm just making an observation as I used to pull 600 foot lbs. on the inboard flap track fail safe straps on the 747. It was lots of fun!! Anyway... I'm looking at using a couple old propane tanks to hold a vacuum for the forming table I have planned. Got to make some DEVO Energy Domes!!
Two things: 1. Needs a drain for removing accumulated water. 2. For safety sake open the bleed screew on the tank valve before removing the valve. I would not want to remove the valve if theree is ANY pressure left inside.
I turned a beer keg into a hangover once.
lol
+dozer1642 - Just once?
+gliderp maybe twice lol
if you did it with no leaks I say totally amazing....hats off to my new hero lol
lol
Very well done ! I really like how you coated the tank interior to prevent rust from forming.... THAT is great thinking !! Keep up outstanding work and thanks for posting !
This bloke is a true legend,, no idea what he is doing but he's having fun & that's all he needs..
Man just use a 5 ft metal pipe that you slide over the hande of a pipe wrench and a 4 or 5 ft crowbar stuck between the handle of the tank . You tilt the propane tank completely on the side so when you use the extended pipe wrench , both crowbar an pole of wrench should make an x shape . You setup yourself so you either drop all your weight on the wrench downward while having a feet on the crowbar to secure it more . Other 180 degree the valve give you problem you lift up , nit that shoult be easy once you droped all the tork using your weigh the first time.Proper placement you shouldnt even wear yourself at all , no muscular force needed than carring all that metal around. The 5 ft x shape tool placement acts like a 5ft 3 wooden beam winch.. yea that old hamish trick using 3 trees and rope to drag a barn using one person.
Always use the tank with the fitting at the bottom. In this way the water condensate is always in the air lines not the tanks.
A suggestion. Lay the 2 x 4 on the ground and pull your car or truck onto it to vise it in place so you won't have to wrestle with it so much. Thanks for the good video.
All those air sounds from 9:40 and later are so satisfying!
A 100% full propane tank in the desert southwest would experience 120F heat in the summer months. That would raise the pressure to around 240psi. That same tank in the winter would have a pressure of 102psi at 60F. The standard is to test them to 2x the service pressure or about 480psi. I believe the service pressure is about 220 psi (test to 440 psi). Most people don't have the equipment to pump a tank to the required test pressures. Your tank could fail at 125 psi (the max limit of most home compressors). Please note that I couldn't find anything online that gives exact numbers, but these should be close.
I have a degree in physics and 60 years' experience with propane tanks. This is a great presentation and I learned from it. There are some things that you can teach an old dog.
Nice . clear and comprehensive, just what I needed.
Very thorough, nice informative video, every aspect covered to make a safe tank
There's a screw on the side of the valve to allow you to vent the tank. Also, that's a worthington cylinder. I used to make those for a living.
I'd just like to say this is an AWESOME video i just think it needs info on the fittings on what size and thread ect :)
I did this with a 7 gallon butane tank. Went well. One thing to note, 7 gallons of water plus the tank itself...Got some gravity to it! I have another 20 gallon bottle I haven't worked up the courage to convert yet!
Interesting info. I tried taking the valve out of one a while back and had no luck. I'll try this method.
Very well done video! Thanks very much, I learned a lot.
Looks like the pressure rating of these tanks is good enough for typical compressed-air use.
There's a nice valve-removal tool at "Propane tank valve removal Method 3 Make a tool! Easy DIY Project!".
Can add a drain fitting by drilling a hole and welding a suitable nut on the bottom (before painting the inside!). Water is always a problem with compressed air - it can't hold as much water as atmospheric-pressure air, so once it cools off after coming out of the compressor you'll get condensation in the tank and hoses. Water-separators here and there help.
@ryanfenters That's actual speed. I had filled the tank with water to take up most of the volume, the compressor basically just had to fill the hose.
That was great info. Thanks
The best idea is to put them upside down so the water will not sit in the tank i have 2 of the TALL kind with 2 slanted L bend's going into a small stainless steel tank so i can drain water wen needed, i hope you fined this helpfull!
@ZstripeW All 20 pound propane tanks I've seen have a standard 3/4" NPT pipe fitting, the same as home heating natural gas line. A good hardware store will stock everything you need. The tee connects to some standard adapters to reduce the size to match the valve and compressed air fitting.
The best way to make the adapter is to build it up at the hardware store, it's much easier to figure out what you need with the parts in front of you.
I will add a Pressure Gauge to the "T" fitting and a small Drain Valve to the bottom of the tank, to drain off condensation ,when I build my Tank. Good instructions. Thanks!.
After you attach that 2x4 {with the long part in the direction of the force (the direction you have to turn the valve to get it out - lefty losey, righty tightey} , lay it flat on the floor OR ground, it is easier to control. Yeah, do it outside. Leave it hole side down a few hours. Then you can rinse it and air dry and whatever. That stink is very persistent and I think it is 3/4 inch pipe thread also. I definitely would pressure test it longer than a few seconds and certainly not in my shop where failure would be somewhat disruptive to it. However my compressor maxes out a 150 but even then failure would smart a bit. Having complained enough, I think he done good, a bit less safety orientated but generally real good.
😕 thanks for making it look so easy ... I am looking to do so with the 47KG one
Instructions unclear, my cat is in the microwave !
As Gordon Shumway (A.L.F.) would say
The only good cat is a stir fried cat.
One thing about air compressors, its not all about capacity, its also about the pumps ability to produce volume. Don't expect that tiny pump on that little tank to last long with the addition of this tank, your causing it to go far over it's service factor. I can make a 1 gallon tank run a DA sander for hours at full volume non-stop...With the right pump and a motor with a continuous duty cycle, correct HP and a SF of 1.15 at least.
If you take the handle off the valve a piece of square tubing will fit over it. Lay the 2x and tank on it's side and park a car tire on it and you can use a pipe wrench or ??? on the square tubing and easily get the valve out.
I made a tool for revalving tanks. I took a section of pipe that fit over the body of the valve and cut two slots in it so the outlet and the relief valve stick out either side. on the other end I drilled two holes to put a metal rod to turn it with. Very efective.
I make almost the exact same thing. I just used a large pipe wrench to loosen the valve. Stuck a 1" pipe through the carrying handles to keep the tank from turning. Works great.
This process brought to you by Methamphetamine,
If you want to do it right, yes you need to remove the valve. Removing the valve allows you to wash out the tank to help get rid of the smell, as well as coat the inside with rust resistant paint. The paint will make this tank last a lot longer.
I also drilled and pipe tapped a 1/8" hole into the top of the T fitting for a pressure gauge.
great idea.
Santina Murphy link ?
Very good & informative video.
More info, if you use the old grill tube connector, you need to drill out the central tiny orfice.
You can also on the existing tank valve unscrew the liquid level float or just leave it on. All of this is just obvious if your handy.
Man Wins Fight In Beginning Of 3rd Round With Propane Tank Valve !! 💪👊
sounds like a refidgerant compressor he is using for the 400 psi. he uses that compressor for an air cannon so not a regular compressor. also from what I have seen he uses gas pipe fittings to retro fit the tank.
I would suggest mounting the tee connector 90 degrees from what you have. I put the input nipple and valve coming in the top and the output out the side.
Most people that aren't the DIY or mechanically interested type just go and buy whatever they need, without thinking of making their own for cheaper. I personally love making or trying to make my own stuff. I built a DIY pressure pot sandblaster out of an old 8 gallon air compressor. Loved the building process, it turned out great!
Soap and water DOES NOT remove all the propane. The pressure forces gas into the metal. What you did is OK if no heat is applied. If heat is applied by using a torch to cut the bottle (not sure about sitting in hot sun), the propane comes out of the metal, mixes with air, and can CAUSE THE TANK TO EXPLODE, if ignited by the torch. This comes from a lawyer who has handled several exploded tank law suits, and an expert witness.
I don't think the tank is gonna explode man.
@crashcyberdrive No pressure, no worries...there's no oxygen inside, it can't burn...also, I said to heat the thread, not set it on fire, the 80-120°C needed to loosen the epoxy is nowhere near ignition temperature...
Im doing the same thing
At this very moment im in my garage emptying my propane tank, outside obviously, and just waiting for the tank to empty out
And at the same time im learning how to make an auxiliary tank for my compressor 😄
Thank you for the video
how do you get rid of moisture that gathers inside the tank from use? or do you have a moisture trap before the tank?
I used an old propane tank for air, but I didn’t do any of this shit, and it works just fine as an auxiliary tank.
When I was wrenching in the early 80s, Snap-On sold a kit with adapter, gauge, hose and fittings for around $ 30.
Valve off, adapter on, fill, use. We didn't have time for all this fuss. 😜
Can you tell what connector did you use instead of original tank valve?
Hi after covering the rust coat, Can i leave the tank under the hot sun to dry instead using a blower drying the rust coat.
Could anybody tell me details of fittings? I have 11KG tank and i took valve out, it seems it has 1inch tread! what kind of couplings and fittings should i get? Thanks in advance
Is the valve to tank connection 3/4 n.p.t. ?
Excellent , was that almost 400 psi you tested the unit to ?
What is the size of the hole where the valve was and what is the thread? i.e. 1/2" 12 TPI? Thx
If you heat the threaded part it will be easier. I just leave the valve in them and use an adapter fitting..way easier
If you heat it up for a few seconds with a torch it will melt the thread locker and come off like butter
Just advice for the future or anyone who reads this and plans in doin this. That’s not a good way to check for pressure.... there is a little flat blade bleeder screw on the side of the valve. Use a screwdriver that fits it well and loosen it. If that doesn’t work then try his method but I’d personally try the bleeder screw first
If I did this set up could I reinflate my tires from one tank? I'd like to go from 12psi to 35psi, truck tires. (4 wheel drive, surf fishing) thanks
Thank you 🙏
Partially filling with water in before testing is a very good idea.
Ken Bell - no partial too it... needs to be essentially full of water
What is the 1st or 2nd air compressor? How much air PSI can you make?
NICE !
Some Freon tanks have oddball fittings. I have trouble finding a fitting to go on a 1/4" flared male coming out of the tank. I want to adapt it to 3/8 NPT. Darn.
@killer2600 overheat?! With what? I never said to use an oxyacetylene torch, a simple heat gun will do, it also doesn't have just enough power to gently heat it...
What kind of air compressor do you have that goes to 400 psi?
Chad Sumen looks like a tiny compressor off a dehumidifier
Very well done! Could you explain what type of valve(which has yellow handle) you used ? Which ones are good for this application?
Hard to find info about what fittings you could use to weld on
did it with 6-20 pound series tanks so now i have lots of air with a small 125psi compresser, takes a while to pump tho...
cool vid
When you made the adapter, what size and type of fittings did you use? I'm interested especially in the fitting that screwed directly into the tank and the "T".
NPT STD PIPE
a parts list would have been nice
does the tank still work. can this be done with those super sized propane tanks
Tks👌🏻.. what is the brand and model of the dryer, it could be very useful, never seen one. Tks again👌🏻
Now 7 years after you did that, what was the behavior of the inside coating you did on the tank? It lasted? Has it caused you any problems?
He died in a propane explosion
instead of brute force, use heat...the threadlock will soften & it'll be a lot easier...
To get the tap out you can get it really warm with a heat gun to char the threadlock. Just don't use a blow torch unless it's a cylinder that contained a non flammable/Non oxidising gas, so only use a naked flame for stuff like argon or CO2 cylinders. Also, try not to heat up the tank too much.
Sorry! I'm a firefighter lot of people tried an a lot of people died alway lean to the side of caution, buy a tank before killing one self .
What was the size of the pipe connect to the tank
Why did you not just adapt the existing valve to work with the tank? It has a builtin safety pressure relief of several hundred psi and has a valve on top.
All It would need is the tube and nut from an old grill and I have seen those on sale at Lowes in the brass fitting section.
Wouldnt a ruberised coating inside the tank be safer than a hard paint?
What type, quantity of fittings and threads were used?
plus like what fittings do you need?
@tesla500 How did u make ur air cannon; like what type of tank did u use
Great job, but all you need to hold the tank is a good rod through the handle while removing the valve. I am currently converting a 100 gal a fat boy propane tank. I am putting a 5 HP motor and compressor on the top of it. Cheers
is it an oil based paint, like they use on farm equipment?
@AKAtheA What about gas vapor inside the tank that has no pressure? I think is a big KABOOM.
Looks good, but what about adding a pressure relief valve and a petcock for draining accumulated moisture?
Did you watch the video to the end?? Let's see: taking the valve off some elbow grease, some time, one 2x4 broken at the end, welding the fitting (using electricity,welding rod or wire) drying the tank 48 hr running the fan,paint to coat the inside, more fan running to dry the inside, varius fittings, the cost of the tank, time spend building it. A 13 gal tank is on average 35$ at an hardware store. He spend more than that to build it for sure.
where could I purchase a compressor that could go to psi of 400 psi?
Wuld a fridge motor work with this or a high pressure wash motor
What max. psi can I pump to tank?
Yeah they love that... when you tear open the packages! (Did it today at HDepot!)
Can you do the math for me on volume? I have a 4" square tube bumper (3/16 wall), that is 56" long. What is my internal volume of air? (and what would max safe pressure be? -assuming all welds are valid and strong)
Thanks... -Steve
and thats the first float assemble ive ever seen, they dont use them over here in this country
They started using them in USA about 10 or maybe 20 yrs ago.There's still a lot of older type ones floating around
WHAT THE DIFFERENT BETWEEN BALOON TANK AND UR TANK PSI WISE SAFTEY HOW MUCH PSI BALOON TAN CAN TAKE THANKS AND WHA DO I NEED TO CONVERT BALOON TANK /
Water drain and pressure safety valve would be nice ?
everyone needs a good buddy for an extra hand
Whats the diameter of the tank thread?
nice
Should have done the pressure test when removing the last of the propane from the tank. That way if it had failed you would not invested the paint or time into it.
neat.
1. Use a torch to heat the base of the brass valve to breakdown/degrade the threadlock and it comes out much easier.
2. You didn't mention what size threaded fitting to connect the T fitting to the tank.
>> Use a torch to heat the base of the brass valve to breakdown/degrade the threadlock and it comes out much easier.
3/4 pipe nipple
what's the air tank for?
There is a better way of holding a cylinder & that is by having two pipes and a loop of nylon or strong rope. The loop ois put round the cylinder so that the pipes can be put through the loop on opposite sides pressure is then applied to the ends of the two pipes but of course it's better with two folks.
That seems like a waste of a flammable gas that could instead be used for heating/soldering/brazing/cutting metal or barbequing or other combustion purposes. But nonetheless an interesting use. I've also seen people charge their refrigeration systems (central units) using propane, since it is in fact a refrigerant.
I have no idea how much torque you were able to pull on a crescent wrench but I doubt it was more than 100 Ft. lbs. I'm just making an observation as I used to pull 600 foot lbs. on the inboard flap track fail safe straps on the 747. It was lots of fun!! Anyway... I'm looking at using a couple old propane tanks to hold a vacuum for the forming table I have planned. Got to make some DEVO Energy Domes!!
Two things:
1. Needs a drain for removing accumulated water.
2. For safety sake open the bleed screew on the tank valve before removing the valve. I would not want to remove the valve if theree is ANY pressure left inside.
sooo the valve though. details?
what about the drain?
F it I'll just buy a damn compressor