Feedback: With jobs like this, can you end the video, showing that the job was complete, and show that the problem was fixed? (using the thermal camera on the effected area) Thanks :)
I like the look of those little orange top valves from Heatmiser. I have the heatmiser wiring centre exactly like that but the valves are a bit more basic looking. Nice vid - will be helpful for me in the coming years!
I love all this content Roger! Was down on you before because of what in my opinion was misinformed information about heat pumps but that aside I genuinely love what you publish these days.
Charlie Thanks but the misinformation about heatpumps has been borne out by thousands of comments from people who have had bad experiences and regret the decision. I am countering the government propaganda which is also misinformation. I have no vested interest unlike HeatGeek.
Hi Roger,a quick question if I may, you say in this video to add inhibitor into U F Heating system,how do you go about doing that, I have a mixed system in my house, radiator s upstairs and U F Heating downstairs, it's all running off the same boiler,so I assume it's the same inhibitor that does the both loops in the system? Cheers Steve
HI Roger, brilliant video as always. It now makes sense to me the purpose of the manifold. The plumber who fitted mine said never touch it. I note its only running at 0.5l per mine but the pump is set at number 5. if I alter the flow rate to 2 liters a minute, which seems to be your recommended rate, do I need to turn the pump down? The thermostat fitted is a real cheap thing, could I change it to a hive one? My floor never seems to warm the room even though I have triple glazing and internal wall insulation fitted.
No. Just do a heating calculation. UFH can be laid upstairs as, although the UFH heat emission is low, bedrooms require lower temps. No one needs rads!
@@barryfoster453 I'm not sure that's what he meant. I think he might have been asking if he needed heating at all upstairs as 'heat rises' etc. That's my take on his question. My guess is Yes you would still need heating upstairs of some kind. Though I have no experience of any of this!! :)
It is a good idea to have radiators upstairs but a lot of heat will finish up drifting to the bedrooms so you might not need to have them on very much at all. I don't like underfloor heating in bedroooms because it cooks the bedrooms. The worst is when it goes under the bed and you end up sweating at 3.a,m because of the residual heat. Radiators can be switched on and off very easily and lose the heat. UFH stores the heat
I guess you fixed it (?) :) Do you have views on electric underfloor heating? Those cameras are amazing - you can see just how effective standard wood ceiling joists are for extracting heat out of a room!
I've had electric UFH for 16 years - brilliant, and 140 watts per sq mtr. I did remove the sensors in the air stats, though, as they were anticipating way too much and switching it off! We couldn't understand why it wasn't heating the rooms! We had engineered timber planks, and they did tell us about possible warping if it got too hot, so I did a laser thermometer test. Turned out that the heat from the Sun on a summer's day pouring through the window onto the floor was way more than the UFH...hence I removed all the sensors and it worked fine, and has ever since. I personally wouldn't go near wet UFH due to the complexity involved and the fact that it's generally only 75 watts per square metre, so half that of electric! Electric is just so much better. Insulate the floor really well, though. We used 12mm Depron.
Depends on the use case - wet loops don't have the same fire risk but do have risks of leaking. Retrofit is much harder than building it in - unless you're rebuilding/pouring the floors again anyway of course!
@@gs425 Yes, though probably closer to three times. I pay 21p/kWh for my electric. But cost shouldn't be your primary concern, really. Wet UFH is, as I said, far more complex...and thus requires replacements and maintenance. And the gas boiler requires servicing, parts replacement and/or insurance. You have to add these to your running costs. My heating bill (electric) is £2,000 a year for a 3-bed detached. But remember that these have been in 16 years with zero maintenance, servicing, or breakdowns. Each room is time and temperature controlled, of course, which is great, as we can heat rooms to differing levels and even at different times of the day. I never have to worry about water leaks, and the matting has an earthing sheet, so if you did drill into it, it trips out. There are no cold spots, as you can cut the matting as you want when installing. And no debris or air locks!
This was really useful BUT my exact same system has the manifold the other way around so the motorised valves are on top and the flow adjustment is on the bottom, does that matter?
![Hunxho - Ball Forever [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nki9ZTF9Uls/mqdefault.jpg)
Feedback: With jobs like this, can you end the video, showing that the job was complete, and show that the problem was fixed? (using the thermal camera on the effected area) Thanks :)
I agree with you
I like the look of those little orange top valves from Heatmiser. I have the heatmiser wiring centre exactly like that but the valves are a bit more basic looking. Nice vid - will be helpful for me in the coming years!
I love all this content Roger! Was down on you before because of what in my opinion was misinformed information about heat pumps but that aside I genuinely love what you publish these days.
Charlie
Thanks but the misinformation about heatpumps has been borne out by thousands of comments from people who have had bad experiences and regret the decision. I am countering the government propaganda which is also misinformation. I have no vested interest unlike HeatGeek.
Hi Roger,a quick question if I may, you say in this video to add inhibitor into U F Heating system,how do you go about doing that, I have a mixed system in my house, radiator s upstairs and U F Heating downstairs, it's all running off the same boiler,so I assume it's the same inhibitor that does the both loops in the system?
Cheers Steve
HI Roger, brilliant video as always. It now makes sense to me the purpose of the manifold. The plumber who fitted mine said never touch it. I note its only running at 0.5l per mine but the pump is set at number 5. if I alter the flow rate to 2 liters a minute, which seems to be your recommended rate, do I need to turn the pump down? The thermostat fitted is a real cheap thing, could I change it to a hive one? My floor never seems to warm the room even though I have triple glazing and internal wall insulation fitted.
The flow rate is determined by the length of the pipe. You can tun the pump down to the green setting and see if it works.
If your customer has a Newfoundland dog where they are lying on floor is the cold spot 😂
What if you have glycol filled pipes? Surely you can't just flush that through and empty I to the drain...?
Long time listener
First time question
If I install under floor heating downstairs do I need rads upstairs?
Thanks
No. Just do a heating calculation. UFH can be laid upstairs as, although the UFH heat emission is low, bedrooms require lower temps. No one needs rads!
@@barryfoster453 I'm not sure that's what he meant. I think he might have been asking if he needed heating at all upstairs as 'heat rises' etc. That's my take on his question. My guess is Yes you would still need heating upstairs of some kind. Though I have no experience of any of this!! :)
Spot on 😉 @@thesunreport
It is a good idea to have radiators upstairs but a lot of heat will finish up drifting to the bedrooms so you might not need to have them on very much at all. I don't like underfloor heating in bedroooms because it cooks the bedrooms. The worst is when it goes under the bed and you end up sweating at 3.a,m because of the residual heat. Radiators can be switched on and off very easily and lose the heat. UFH stores the heat
I guess you fixed it (?) :) Do you have views on electric underfloor heating? Those cameras are amazing - you can see just how effective standard wood ceiling joists are for extracting heat out of a room!
I've had electric UFH for 16 years - brilliant, and 140 watts per sq mtr. I did remove the sensors in the air stats, though, as they were anticipating way too much and switching it off! We couldn't understand why it wasn't heating the rooms! We had engineered timber planks, and they did tell us about possible warping if it got too hot, so I did a laser thermometer test. Turned out that the heat from the Sun on a summer's day pouring through the window onto the floor was way more than the UFH...hence I removed all the sensors and it worked fine, and has ever since. I personally wouldn't go near wet UFH due to the complexity involved and the fact that it's generally only 75 watts per square metre, so half that of electric! Electric is just so much better. Insulate the floor really well, though. We used 12mm Depron.
Depends on the use case - wet loops don't have the same fire risk but do have risks of leaking. Retrofit is much harder than building it in - unless you're rebuilding/pouring the floors again anyway of course!
@@barryfoster453 and electric cosy four times as much per unit than gas
@@gs425
Yes, though probably closer to three times. I pay 21p/kWh for my electric. But cost shouldn't be your primary concern, really. Wet UFH is, as I said, far more complex...and thus requires replacements and maintenance. And the gas boiler requires servicing, parts replacement and/or insurance. You have to add these to your running costs. My heating bill (electric) is £2,000 a year for a 3-bed detached. But remember that these have been in 16 years with zero maintenance, servicing, or breakdowns. Each room is time and temperature controlled, of course, which is great, as we can heat rooms to differing levels and even at different times of the day. I never have to worry about water leaks, and the matting has an earthing sheet, so if you did drill into it, it trips out. There are no cold spots, as you can cut the matting as you want when installing. And no debris or air locks!
@@barryfoster453 A paradise for cats😻
if the UFH fails in some way and l have an expensive wood floor on top, thats gonna be an astronomical spend to put right, right?
This was really useful BUT my exact same system has the manifold the other way around so the motorised valves are on top and the flow adjustment is on the bottom, does that matter?
No that doesn't matter at all
@SkillBuilder thanks for clearing that up Rog. Enjoy all you're videos, thanks for all you do. 👍🏻👍🏻
How do you do this if You’ve an older manifold system without the flow valves on it?
Justy close each circuit on the actuators
That wiped joint on the lead pipe I presume is the water main, did you do that originally Roger ?😂
I wiped a lot of joints at college and did a lot of underground mains so, yes, it could easily have been one of mine.
How do you put inhibitor into the system?
How do you add inhibitor in a system which is pressurised and , as you did here, filled via the boiler?
put it in the towel rail or the Mag filter
Awesome, thank you.
All this edging and no finish😢
brooo 😂 what video are you watching?
Was the problem fixed?
3,32 Need to change that Grundfos PIECE OF SHIT PUMP for a propper pump
Yes, they used to be THE pump! Funny how things go down the toilet, isn't it?
The pump is on the wrong setting - it is set on the maximum flow radiator setting. Needs to be on auto adjust UFH setting. (Second green light)
I put it on max when cleating air locks.
@@SkillBuilder just something my eyes caught 👀. Great channel, keep going. All the best, W.
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