JOHN PARISI thanks for the feedback! I'm sure I skipped some important steps that I've come to think of as obvious, but I tried to be as thorough as possible.
Thanks for an informative video on scanning, I have watched about a dozen videos on scanning today and you are the first person to use the term emulsion. Considering that anyone with lots of negatives should know the term from the photo days, the others only talk about the shiny side. It appears to be a lot of work when you have a lot of negs to scan into the computer but then it will be easier to reproduce the images. I guess my challenge will be the job of batch scanning so I appreciate your effort to make it a bit clearer and will try to understand the programs as well for scanning.
Thanks Ralph, you're right about it being a lot of work. Like you, I have many negs/slides to scan, but just no time. A little here and a little there is how I do it... and some I'll never scan. Of course I've got much less to go through than someone who's been using film for 20+ years. Best of luck!
I can`t believe it. This is what I`ve been looking for. Finally !! Like others I`ve been watching and searching for tips about this process, but yours it`s definitely the best. I`m beginning to scan my negatives (a lot of them) and I encourage other fellows to share results about trying through trial and error, if is the right term. In this case help me a lot, because my scanner is also an Epson, old one (v200) but I as I watched the video, saw the same features in mine. Thanks for sharing
Great demonstration! I've been watching others and your's is the best. For instance clipping and explaining why you want a flat image. I haven't seen one demonstration, to my knowledge that explains that in a coherent way. Good work!
great presentation - but dang, this seems complex. I have so many negatives to scan, I know I can't take time to adjust each one. Should i try a negative scanning service - or any other suggestions when you have a ton of negs/slides?
Thanks. This clarified a few things for my older Epson Perfection 4180 scanner. I had to download updated software for it. Luckily, Epson still provides it and I have a dual-boot into my Linux machine to use Mac OS 10.12. Epson doesn't support Linux, but Epson Scan works just fine with Mac OS! Imight also be able to run it under Linx' Windows emulation. I'll try it later. For now, I'll keep scanning with what works (Mac OS). My negative & slide frames are a bit clunkier, and they only have one registration pin. But the 4180 does a good job , so why buy a new one when this one still works? Thanks for the demo.
You might consider scanning as is in terms of resolution which will scan the whole image at 3200 dpi for example. When in PS, without downsizing change to 300dpi and the will bring up the dimension of your image to share it would be at 3200 dpi scanning a 6x6 image.
i know im asking randomly but does anyone know of a method to get back into an Instagram account? I was stupid forgot the login password. I would appreciate any tips you can give me!
@Apollo Corbin I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and I'm trying it out now. I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Video is almost 3 years old but I'm still gonna comment. How can you scan a color negative with a normal scanner? And by normal I mean the ones that have the white "cushion" attached to the cover and can't be detached. I've tried so many times, in many differnt ways, and I just can't...
Can’t do it - you need a negative scanner. Your best bet will be to photograph the negative back-lit somehow, then invert the colors in Photoshop or something.
But can you explain to me how is the scanner you used? Behind that glass on the cover, there's a light source? So the light comes only from behind the film and not on the front?
@@nicma9407 Yes it shines a light through that top window and through the neg to the scanner bar below. That’s why it needs two windows for a transparency.
wow that was explained very well was that scan with 24 bits for all 3 channels? i have an old hp scanner and wondered how to scan negatives with more than 24 bits since the scanner natively scans with 48 bits (its a scanjet 4070)
I use SilverFast, ou j'utillise SilverFast logicel c'est mieux from Las Vegas USA I just bought the Epson perfection 550 same Scanner has the 600 version does the same job. bye bye the software that come with the scanner J'utillise SilverFast.
Emulsion side down? Are we sure we are talking about the same thing? Everywhere I've read talks about putting the shiny side down, the side where one can see lines and ridges up. Is that not the emulsion side? Just trying to ensure we are all on the same page. Thanks.
To have a scan that isn't mirrored (backwards), then shiny side down and emulsion up. I scan emulsion side down because some believe having the emulsion side closer to the scanner glass can improve sharpness. Of course, this requires flipping the image afterwards in Photoshop. Some people even press the negative against the scanner glass with another piece of glass to make it absolutely flat (although this can create Newton Rings). But ultimately I think you'll find by doing it both ways that it doesn't make a whole lot of difference, as long as you end up with a properly oriented image in the end. Thanks for watching!
Gotta say.... it's either all the wine I just drank with my dinner, or that's one of the best fucking repurposes for a cereal box!!! (oh, and yes, I just DID drink too much so spellchecker is working perfectly.. ) But seriosly, errrrr I mean seriously, fantastic way of doing this!!!! Thanks man!!
Trying to scan some really old, larger size slides, on a scanner. I was told the 600 would not work because of the slide size.... and most are mounted. Any thoughts?
+ReynoldsRetouching Love the video, great info! Quick question, when I scan, I include some of the Film Base, but I don't get that dark peak on the left hand side. Would you know why?
Carlos Aguilar Look at your negative, and the only perfectly see-through part should be the film base. There are exceptions to this with night photography etc. But ideally, in the vast majority of lighting scenarios, if you have clear areas with no detail on the negative, than your image was under-exposed when you took the picture (or under-developed). I can't think of another problem that would cause that.
Reynolds Retouching thanks for the reminder. I keep shooting film exposing for the highlights (mostly because I'm used digital). I gotta stop doing that, and expose for the midtones/shadows.
Very good and clear video! I do have a question since i am new to analog photography. You can bring your negatives (i use 35 mm) in a lighted room without any pretreatment? Thanks in advance :)
An interesting video. I have viewed a number of these types of videos and always run into the same problem - please explain to myself (and anyone else interested) - what is 'medium format film'? I haven't the faintest idea what it is - and I have been using cameras for many years now (35, 110,120)mm types. If you are referring to 35mm, 110mm, 120mm or 126mm or super 8 then please mention that and avoid 'medium format' because it is vague and ill-defining. By the way, many of these types of presentations fail to mention three main issues with digitization scanning devices - colour leaching/bleaching (blues, reds & yellows not always fully transferred), focusing (high definition detail just isn't there), cropping (full detail of the slide/negative is not always transferred).
Medium format is anything bigger than 35mm wide, but smaller than 4 inches. This scanner will scan anything 2 and 1/4 inches, or 120mm and smaller. To be more specific, any medium format other than 120 or 220 film is obsolete, or at least very rare. Thanks for the feedback.
Unable to pass the point where its asked to check off the flim box, I can only select "reflective" as document type.. the image that is scanned is the tray, not individual images.. not thumbnail images
Larry Llewellyn are you using a scanner that will scan negatives, and if so, have you removed the document pad from the top lid? If yes to both, I would try re-downloading and installing the scanned software. There have recently been some major compatibility issues between epsom scan and the new Mac OS after Yosemite. That could be the problem.
I usually research things online before I buy at a store. The websites usually have all the info you need and lots of times you can actually download a manual for the device, so you will know and understand it's features when you make the jump. lee Lew , I know mine will scan photos, slides and negatives, but some may be different. Hope that helps some, my friend.
one1 - My scanner came with them. But some people use glass. Try some glass from a 5x7 picture frame, use masking tape on the edges (you don't want to scratch your scanner glass), and press your transparencies flat.
+CaddyWhumpusGamer the Epson software will give you the raw Tiff or Jpg. From there I guess you can import it to whatever image editing program you want to use that will accept those file formats (most). But the principles of levels, curves, color balance, and your histogram will be the same, just set up differently. I'm most familiar with Photoshop, Bridge, and Lightroom, so those are what I use. Don't forget to subscribe, and check out my other videos! More to come.
When you zoomed in the image seem to have gone quite soft.. Is that because youre using a flat bed scanner? And if you are using a flatbed is there anyway to get charper images on a flat bed.
One question. What will be the difference between using the histogram on the scanner and the one in photoshop. As I saw the video, you did it once with the scanner, and then continue with the one in photoshop, once the picture was transfered. Thanks.
Juan Venegas thanks for watching! You need to do it in the scanner software, because that gets your levels close to where they need to be. Photoshop is for the fine tuning. Too much level adjustment in Photoshop, and you will see a histogram of vertical lines. This is your "dynamic range" being sacrificed, or stretched to cover a greater contrast range. This is what they call a destructive edit, and while always necessary to some extent, they need to be kept to a minimum. You can also mask out different areas for different level adjustments in Photoshop, but you can't do that in the scanner software.
Now I remember why I stopped shooting film (slides) and don't get me wrong I love film, started back in '79' but man, is this ever a tedious process, even with a fast scanner and computer. I can not imagine having to scan 40k+ slides and negs.
cameraman655 Yes, to really do it right, editing down is everything. I shot a roll of 35 last fall and scanned maybe 2 or 3 of the best. To be fair though, in the dark room I never printed everything either. I think there's a place for batch scanning, just not to be hung on the wall. 99% of the time I shoot digital, because as you point out - love film but it's a process.
I hear ya and the 40k was a bit of a hyperbole. However as a stock shooter, I have amassed a huge collection of chromes over the past 38 years and the culling process, that would be monumental. And frankly, the quality results of scanners (save for the $10k-$70k drum scanners) are so-so at best. Until such time that a technology comes along that solves the aforementioned issues, namely time and costs, my slides will remain in my files or in the files of the agency that I shoot for.
You skipped the step where you go out and buy an expensive scanner with special attachments, because I doubt the average person has anything close to this.
Sorry to contradict you, but when I read the V600 instruction page it advised placing negs into the holder with the "shiny side facing down" .... confusing information. May be a misprint?
David Robertson interesting. There are various schools of thought on what yields the sharpest results. As you can see, I had to flip mine. One reason for emulsion side down, is that it reduces concentric rings if you were to press it flat against the surface with glass (some people do that). Ultimately I've never found it to be terribly important - if you don't want to flip the image after, than you could follow Nikon's instructions.
And another reason, is that placing the emulsion down brings it closer to the scan head, which passes underneath, and with the shallow depth of field of scanners (often under 2mm), this could make a difference. Here's a great article explaining scanner depth of field and an experiment that was done: www.microscopy-uk.org.uk/mag/artjan13/dw-scanner-type.html. But ultimately, I think Nikon's instructions read that way so users will have correctly oriented images without having to flip them after.
+nostology well 35mm and 5x7 are different aspect ratios. So if you saw me set the target size - I made it larger, but that didn’t change the aspect ratio. For example, I can’t go from square format to 5x7 or 35mm (6x9) without cropping. So to go from 35mm or 6x9 to 5x7, you will need to crop. If you’re using Photoshop or Lightroom, or some other image editing software, you can do it there. But scanning should probably be done in the original format - you can always go back to it and crop however you want later.
I have old 40s/50s negatives which are larger than the 35 mm, does the Canon 8000f have the frames for this size or are the frames adjustable? If not, where can I get the larger frame size? Thanks
Laura Romero I'm not familiar with that scanner, but if the specs for it include 120 film, you can do up to 2 1/4 inch wide. Lift the lid and look at the upper glass - if the width is greater than or equal to your negative size, then you're good. If you can't get holders, you should be able to use masking tape around edges of picture frame glass and push the negative flat against the scanner between the two pieces of glass. My Epson v600 will only do up to 2 1/4 inch. Again, not sure about the Canon.
When I try to scan my 2 1/4 X 2 1/4" negatives, it scans them to 2' X 1 3/8. When I try to change the setting, it just changes it back to the 2 X 1 3/8.
How to Digitize Slides and Negatives (the short version): buy the tool, use it. But I want to buy no tool and still I want to "Digitize Slides and Negatives". And guess what, you are no help. And guess further, I'll do it without your help.
my first time finding you. Very nice job. You assume that we don;t know all the steps and showing the steps is VERY helpful. thanks
JOHN PARISI thanks for the feedback! I'm sure I skipped some important steps that I've come to think of as obvious, but I tried to be as thorough as possible.
Thanks for an informative video on scanning, I have watched about a dozen videos on scanning today and you are the first person to use the term emulsion. Considering that anyone with lots of negatives should know the term from the photo days, the others only talk about the shiny side. It appears to be a lot of work when you have a lot of negs to scan into the computer but then it will be easier to reproduce the images. I guess my challenge will be the job of batch scanning so I appreciate your effort to make it a bit clearer and will try to understand the programs as well for scanning.
Thanks Ralph, you're right about it being a lot of work. Like you, I have many negs/slides to scan, but just no time. A little here and a little there is how I do it... and some I'll never scan. Of course I've got much less to go through than someone who's been using film for 20+ years. Best of luck!
I can`t believe it. This is what I`ve been looking for. Finally !! Like others I`ve been watching and searching for tips about this process, but yours it`s definitely the best.
I`m beginning to scan my negatives (a lot of them) and I encourage other fellows to share results about trying through trial and error, if is the right term.
In this case help me a lot, because my scanner is also an Epson, old one (v200) but I as I watched the video, saw the same features in mine.
Thanks for sharing
i really liked this. u should do more tutorial types for different photos.
IDK how you got that shot at 1:55 but it was great
Very impressed with your presentation
Thank you Paul
Great demonstration! I've been watching others and your's is the best. For instance clipping and explaining why you want a flat image. I haven't seen one demonstration, to my knowledge that explains that in a coherent way. Good work!
Michael Sittig thanks for the feedback!
Excellent Explanation! I was looking about how to do this ! Thank you!
great presentation - but dang, this seems complex. I have so many negatives to scan, I know I can't take time to adjust each one. Should i try a negative scanning service - or any other suggestions when you have a ton of negs/slides?
Thank you very much! I'm looking for this tutorial and it was easy to follow the steps.
Thanks. This clarified a few things for my older Epson Perfection 4180 scanner. I had to download updated software for it. Luckily, Epson still provides it and I have a dual-boot into my Linux machine to use Mac OS 10.12. Epson doesn't support Linux, but Epson Scan works just fine with Mac OS! Imight also be able to run it under Linx' Windows emulation. I'll try it later. For now, I'll keep scanning with what works (Mac OS).
My negative & slide frames are a bit clunkier, and they only have one registration pin. But the 4180 does a good job , so why buy a new one when this one still works?
Thanks for the demo.
Wow, thanks for the video, but a lot of the terms you used were over my head,. Guess I have a lot to learn before I scan my negatives.
who else got mind blown when he flipped the image to the way it was supposed to be lol
You might consider scanning as is in terms of resolution which will scan the whole image at 3200 dpi for example. When in PS, without downsizing change to 300dpi and the will bring up the dimension of your image to share it would be at 3200 dpi scanning a 6x6 image.
Benjamin Kanarek interesting - I'll have to try that.
i know im asking randomly but does anyone know of a method to get back into an Instagram account?
I was stupid forgot the login password. I would appreciate any tips you can give me!
@Clayton Arlo Instablaster ;)
@Apollo Corbin I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and I'm trying it out now.
I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Apollo Corbin it worked and I now got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thank you so much, you saved my account :D
very good video. perfect, detailed explanations of everything.
Good advice about clipping. Labs will use full auto in most cases.
Great job of explaining this! Thank you,
Thanks, I am looking to scan in b/w 35mm negatives. Will there be a big difference between scanning them?
So you can't just use a regular scanner?
Thank you so much for this long ass video
What software version of Epson Scan are you using?
hello, excellent tuttorial! what camera and lens did you used on these photos? thnks
Hi Otavio, do you mean the image I scanned? That was with an old Roliflex twin lens reflex.
Great video. Thank you.
Video is almost 3 years old but I'm still gonna comment.
How can you scan a color negative with a normal scanner? And by normal I mean the ones that have the white "cushion" attached to the cover and can't be detached.
I've tried so many times, in many differnt ways, and I just can't...
Can’t do it - you need a negative scanner. Your best bet will be to photograph the negative back-lit somehow, then invert the colors in Photoshop or something.
But can you explain to me how is the scanner you used? Behind that glass on the cover, there's a light source? So the light comes only from behind the film and not on the front?
Oh well, thanks for your reply!
@@nicma9407 Yes it shines a light through that top window and through the neg to the scanner bar below. That’s why it needs two windows for a transparency.
wow that was explained very well
was that scan with 24 bits for all 3 channels? i have an old hp scanner and wondered how to scan negatives with more than 24 bits since the scanner natively scans with 48 bits (its a scanjet 4070)
Great vid! Thank you for the tutorial
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed. I have more videos coming.
can you scan antique glass negatives with this scanner?
Thanks for sharing this.
Hi !
Thanks for this vid !
What is the program you are using at 8.00 ?
Thanks in advance from France !
I use SilverFast, ou j'utillise SilverFast logicel c'est mieux from Las Vegas USA I just bought the Epson perfection 550 same Scanner
has the 600 version does the same job. bye bye the software that come with the scanner J'utillise SilverFast.
Emulsion side down? Are we sure we are talking about the same thing?
Everywhere I've read talks about putting the shiny side down, the side
where one can see lines and ridges up. Is that not the emulsion side?
Just trying to ensure we are all on the same page.
Thanks.
To have a scan that isn't mirrored (backwards), then shiny side down and emulsion up. I scan emulsion side down because some believe having the emulsion side closer to the scanner glass can improve sharpness. Of course, this requires flipping the image afterwards in Photoshop. Some people even press the negative against the scanner glass with another piece of glass to make it absolutely flat (although this can create Newton Rings). But ultimately I think you'll find by doing it both ways that it doesn't make a whole lot of difference, as long as you end up with a properly oriented image in the end. Thanks for watching!
Great Name!
Gotta say.... it's either all the wine I just drank with my dinner, or that's one of the best fucking repurposes for a cereal box!!! (oh, and yes, I just DID drink too much so spellchecker is working perfectly.. ) But seriosly, errrrr I mean seriously, fantastic way of doing this!!!! Thanks man!!
Trying to scan some really old, larger size slides, on a scanner. I was told the 600 would not work because of the slide size.... and most are mounted. Any thoughts?
+ReynoldsRetouching Love the video, great info! Quick question, when I scan, I include some of the Film Base, but I don't get that dark peak on the left hand side. Would you know why?
Carlos Aguilar Look at your negative, and the only perfectly see-through part should be the film base. There are exceptions to this with night photography etc. But ideally, in the vast majority of lighting scenarios, if you have clear areas with no detail on the negative, than your image was under-exposed when you took the picture (or under-developed). I can't think of another problem that would cause that.
Reynolds Retouching thanks for the reminder. I keep shooting film exposing for the highlights (mostly because I'm used digital). I gotta stop doing that, and expose for the midtones/shadows.
Very good and clear video! I do have a question since i am new to analog photography.
You can bring your negatives (i use 35 mm) in a lighted room without any pretreatment?
Thanks in advance :)
As long as you've already developed them.
An interesting video. I have viewed a number of these types of videos and always run into the same problem - please explain to myself (and anyone else interested) - what is 'medium format film'? I haven't the faintest idea what it is - and I have been using cameras for many years now (35, 110,120)mm types. If you are referring to 35mm, 110mm, 120mm or 126mm or super 8 then please mention that and avoid 'medium format' because it is vague and ill-defining. By the way, many of these types of presentations fail to mention three main issues with digitization scanning devices - colour leaching/bleaching (blues, reds & yellows not always fully transferred), focusing (high definition detail just isn't there), cropping (full detail of the slide/negative is not always transferred).
Medium format is anything bigger than 35mm wide, but smaller than 4 inches. This scanner will scan anything 2 and 1/4 inches, or 120mm and smaller. To be more specific, any medium format other than 120 or 220 film is obsolete, or at least very rare. Thanks for the feedback.
how did you unlock the target size option mine has a lock on it and wont let me change
Thanks for the tutorial. Can it scan the A4 size slides?
Unable to pass the point where its asked to check off the flim box, I can only select "reflective" as document type.. the image that is scanned is the tray, not individual images.. not thumbnail images
Larry Llewellyn are you using a scanner that will scan negatives, and if so, have you removed the document pad from the top lid? If yes to both, I would try re-downloading and installing the scanned software. There have recently been some major compatibility issues between epsom scan and the new Mac OS after Yosemite. That could be the problem.
Hey ReynoldsRetouching, is the negative tray necessary or can you still scan the film without it? what difference does it make? thanks in advance.
I love Epson stuff
I HAVE 100'S OF 3X5 4X4 OLD NEGATIVES, CAN I JUST LAY THEM ON GLASS OR DO I NEED A HOLDER, WILL EPSON WHICH ONE WILL DO THE JOB..HELP
I usually research things online before I buy at a store. The websites usually have all the info you need and lots of times you can actually download a manual for the device, so you will know and understand it's features when you make the jump. lee Lew , I know mine will scan photos, slides and negatives, but some may be different. Hope that helps some, my friend.
THANKS
That makes two of us.
Where to find this plastic holder for film? I tired on ebay, there is nothing under 20$
one1 - My scanner came with them. But some people use glass. Try some glass from a 5x7 picture frame, use masking tape on the edges (you don't want to scratch your scanner glass), and press your transparencies flat.
Can you also do this using a different program like GIMP?
+CaddyWhumpusGamer the Epson software will give you the raw Tiff or Jpg. From there I guess you can import it to whatever image editing program you want to use that will accept those file formats (most). But the principles of levels, curves, color balance, and your histogram will be the same, just set up differently. I'm most familiar with Photoshop, Bridge, and Lightroom, so those are what I use.
Don't forget to subscribe, and check out my other videos! More to come.
When you zoomed in the image seem to have gone quite soft.. Is that because youre using a flat bed scanner? And if you are using a flatbed is there anyway to get charper images on a flat bed.
One question. What will be the difference between using the histogram on the scanner and the one in photoshop. As I saw the video, you did it once with the scanner, and then continue with the one in photoshop, once the picture was transfered.
Thanks.
Juan Venegas thanks for watching! You need to do it in the scanner software, because that gets your levels close to where they need to be. Photoshop is for the fine tuning. Too much level adjustment in Photoshop, and you will see a histogram of vertical lines. This is your "dynamic range" being sacrificed, or stretched to cover a greater contrast range. This is what they call a destructive edit, and while always necessary to some extent, they need to be kept to a minimum. You can also mask out different areas for different level adjustments in Photoshop, but you can't do that in the scanner software.
Thanks for answering my question. As I comment before your video is the best one.
Tks a lot.
Juan Vengas
00910forgive 8th
Now I remember why I stopped shooting film (slides) and don't get me wrong I love film, started back in '79' but man, is this ever a tedious process, even with a fast scanner and computer. I can not imagine having to scan 40k+ slides and negs.
cameraman655 Yes, to really do it right, editing down is everything. I shot a roll of 35 last fall and scanned maybe 2 or 3 of the best. To be fair though, in the dark room I never printed everything either. I think there's a place for batch scanning, just not to be hung on the wall. 99% of the time I shoot digital, because as you point out - love film but it's a process.
I hear ya and the 40k was a bit of a hyperbole. However as a stock shooter, I have amassed a huge collection of chromes over the past 38 years and the culling process, that would be monumental. And frankly, the quality results of scanners (save for the $10k-$70k drum scanners) are so-so at best. Until such time that a technology comes along that solves the aforementioned issues, namely time and costs, my slides will remain in my files or in the files of the agency that I shoot for.
pity. I have an epson GFT-1500. No removable cushion crusher plate. Do those V600's scan docs and photos as well?
Yes, the v600 does both.
You skipped the step where you go out and buy an expensive scanner with special attachments, because I doubt the average person has anything close to this.
It isn’t all that expensive. But scanning negatives requires a scanner 🤷♂️
@@rjreynoldsmusic1585 I have a scanner, just not a fancy one. I tried scanning negatives with it and they came out looking horrible.
Sorry to contradict you, but when I read the V600 instruction page it advised placing negs into the holder with the "shiny side facing down" .... confusing information. May be a misprint?
David Robertson interesting. There are various schools of thought on what yields the sharpest results. As you can see, I had to flip mine. One reason for emulsion side down, is that it reduces concentric rings if you were to press it flat against the surface with glass (some people do that). Ultimately I've never found it to be terribly important - if you don't want to flip the image after, than you could follow Nikon's instructions.
And another reason, is that placing the emulsion down brings it closer to the scan head, which passes underneath, and with the shallow depth of field of scanners (often under 2mm), this could make a difference. Here's a great article explaining scanner depth of field and an experiment that was done: www.microscopy-uk.org.uk/mag/artjan13/dw-scanner-type.html. But ultimately, I think Nikon's instructions read that way so users will have correctly oriented images without having to flip them after.
Will my 35mm negatives be 35mm pictures when I save them to my computer? How can I set their size to say...5 x 7? Thank you.
+nostology well 35mm and 5x7 are different aspect ratios. So if you saw me set the target size - I made it larger, but that didn’t change the aspect ratio. For example, I can’t go from square format to 5x7 or 35mm (6x9) without cropping.
So to go from 35mm or 6x9 to 5x7, you will need to crop. If you’re using Photoshop or Lightroom, or some other image editing software, you can do it there. But scanning should probably be done in the original format - you can always go back to it and crop however you want later.
Thanks,Great Video. I Might Have Plenty of Work For You.
I have old 40s/50s negatives which are larger than the 35 mm, does the Canon 8000f have the frames for this size or are the frames adjustable? If not, where can I get the larger frame size? Thanks
Laura Romero I'm not familiar with that scanner, but if the specs for it include 120 film, you can do up to 2 1/4 inch wide. Lift the lid and look at the upper glass - if the width is greater than or equal to your negative size, then you're good. If you can't get holders, you should be able to use masking tape around edges of picture frame glass and push the negative flat against the scanner between the two pieces of glass. My Epson v600 will only do up to 2 1/4 inch. Again, not sure about the Canon.
Thanks for getting back and for your input!
I am using a canon ae1 program with 35mm negatives. Do i have to develop the negatives before scanning them? Thanks!
Sure do.
Thanks :)
Why do these videos only show 35 negatives?
This is a 6x6 negative
When I try to scan my 2 1/4 X 2 1/4" negatives, it scans them to 2' X 1 3/8. When I try to change the setting, it just changes it back to the 2 X 1 3/8.
You should be able to manually highlight the portion you want to scan after doing a scan preview. Then it will just scan that portion.
nice for PSP, i would try this.
so annoying... EVERYONE has scanners that come with those trays for negatives... how about the scanners that don't.
That is because they are negative scanners. Normal Scanners (which obviously come without those trays) are not meant to scan negatives.
Accept my thanks :)
Levels... sigh... the hammer in the china closet
der hjpüpp
hat
How to Digitize Slides and Negatives (the short version): buy the tool, use it. But I want to buy no tool and still I want to "Digitize Slides and Negatives". And guess what, you are no help. And guess further, I'll do it without your help.
Good luck!
Best get back onto your medication, pal.
FontediCalore Please post your video showing us how you do it without equipment.