Trying making a flange on glass, H tubes aged | week 16-17/2022
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- Опубликовано: 2 май 2022
- The previous batch of H tubes is finished, we experiment with making a flange on glass cylinder and test a new jig for making the glass relays.
Thank you for watching!
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Nice. If we can have more people learn how to make tubes then not only will we have less shortages we might get new configurations of tubes.
I suggest you make and add some kevlar softjaws to your small chuck the next time you make a tungsten contact for the glass relay, and then the chuck won't absorb the heat quite so much.
These are the most beautiful Nixie tubes I've EVER seen. If I can scrape up the money I would love to commission a giant wall clock made of them!!
I'm surprised you get a good long term seal on tungsten rod that diameter without using some uranium glass for the bead. Or was that sleeve uranium glass? If you examine some high power transmitting tubes all the seals are green uranium glass when that large diameter tungsten is used. Surprise! I had the opinion the breaking stuff (like the relay accident) was due to my old age! I guess not! :)
NileRed made a video about how to make uranium glass ruclips.net/video/RGw6fXprV9U/видео.html
Ron. I have been trying to send him some 7720 nonex beading glass for 3 years and he will not accept it. Hahahaha. Please have take some. It will help so much. Uranium glass is a hit easier to make the seal with but is increasingly hard to get the 3320 which is the real one. Schott has a non uranium version but a case is about the cost of a car now. 3320 has been out of melt since the 50’s. As for the beading of the glass for the relay leave them just a touch dark for the bead. When you seal that assembly in the actual tube you will diffuse more oxide away so you want a little reserve left. The splotchy or bubbly appearance is from not firing the pins before beading. This can be done in either wet or dry hydrogen or vacuum. Then to get your oxide coating Heat in an open hydrogen flame to redness then withdraw the flame and you should get a more consistent oxide layer. The hydrogen firing will also greatly reduce the need to polish the lead. As for the brazing At M.U. It was either done under a hydrogen bell jar and an arc. Think TIG welder without the gas supply tube as it’s already in an environment. It would flash burn off the bottom of the jar from time to time so you might want to figure out something safer. The copper requires a non oxidizing atmosphere. I might try it with forming gas as it’s much much safer. The silver bearing brazing alloy can be used with any torch generally. Both methods will have to be polished clean afterwards but that’s no big deal.
Oh. And the other method of brazing was with an induction heater.
While I was watching this amazing glass work, I instantly remembered you Ron!
Hi,glasslinger
can you help me with this
Thanks for sharing updates and how the work gets done.
It's an art form in the engineering world and I really enjoy seeing the work involved.
Kind regards,
South Africa
That's a very cool glass turning lathe!
13:22 was painful 😢 sorry for that my friend.
Extraordinario su trabajo Mr Dalibor Farny,y lo que más llama la atención es que lo realiza una persona muy joven, este maravilloso arte no puede desaparecer, por favor le agradezco haga un vídeo de como ensamblan el cañón de las CRT,le reitero mi admiración y respeto,Good job Mr Dalibor Farny, Greetings.
Those H tubes are beautiful! 💖
Always interesting videos, I really like your large glass turning lathe, it’s a piece of art👍
Great Video! Very interesting to see the progress :)
For the oxide forming on the tungsten, for a repeatable process, can you try anodizing? It appears that tungsten can be anodized alike aluminum and titanium, so presumably you can use anodizing with a controlled voltage to set your oxide thickness? I.e. in a X molar electrolyte solution, apply Y mA/mm^2 until the voltage reaches Z volts, then youre done and the oxide film is just right. Not sure if it will be the right oxide, or the right crystal structure etc for making a good glass/metal seal, as I'm neither a glass worker nor electrochemist, but the basic idea doesnt seem unreasonable.
You have a great show . !!
Thanks for the great updates Dalibor
You may want to look into using some sort of “spring swage” for forming that flange. It means a single person can use the form tool, and keep both halves inline while doing so.
Always look forward to your videos
You might want to put nut in the middle of lathe handle that tilts it to vertical position, so that you can use drill to quickly tilt it instead of spending a lot of time doing that manually.
Yup, the mass of the molten glass wants to fall down, in this case, down is wherever the forces point in that rotation, which is anywhere but the center of the glass tube. I suspect that as long as you maintain the heat at the right place, you could actually make a glass plate out of a glass rod of sufficient thickness or length.
I do remember, years ago, seeing a glass artist's piece, that was made from a glass rod, it had a perfectly round "top" that mirrored the glass rod's own coloring (multiple colors, sort of weaved together, kinda like how glass marbled look). I'd assumed, back then, that it was 'glued' on top, but now i'm quite certain this is how it was made. Neat.
That's exactly how 'bullseye' windows used to be made, that's why they have a circular pattern of changing thickness.
since the beginning, I'm a huge fan of your work!
Please be careful when grinding tungsten. The particles are a real health hazard.
Best wishes, Arvid Hjort, KTH.
Good point, I think grinding thoriated tungsten is the main problem, we use pure tungsten. But good to think about ventilation..
@@daliborfarny Right, but either way dust in your lungs is never good ;-)
@@Ranger_Kevin exactly :-)
Cool stuff.
Love the journey :D
Cool video man, please keep it coming :)
Thank you for demonstrating a different type of lathe work - in glass. I've not actually used this type of lathe but I've assisted a glassworker when we needed what was, effectively, a giant test tube 150mm in diameter and 700mm long. All the fun of a normal lathe but with operations at 500°C plus. I am very much an interested bystander. I don't subscribe but I dip every now and then.
And to think - I once had a 'portable' calculator that had a ten digit display, all Nixie tubes about 30mm high.
You go to this much work to make 300mm ones.
To think - I threw my old calculator because it was "too old". 😖
*Shakes head* - the way we used to waste stuff without appreciating the skills that went into creating it.
Zdravím Dalibore, už nevím jak vyjádřit obdiv nad vaší pílí a precizností Vás i vašeho kolektivu.
No a samozřejmě i nervy, 13:19 "křach" ve13:20 bych já už skákal z okna 🙂 Další super video.
13:15 - Oh no, man, please stop! I have a bad feeling about it! It goes too smooth this time!
13:20 - Oh man, I told you! I told you! =(
just Czech engineering I love this country,
Glass goes outwards on its own probably because of the centrifugal force.
The faster you spin the lathe the faster it would go outwards.
Have you considered using an induction heater to heat the tungsten rod? You might have less oxidation on the rod.
Is the oxidation from the torch running oxygen rich, or is it from the oxygen in the atmosphere around the hot rod reacting? Would an inert gas wash help? Probably not if the torch is oxygen rich...
@@kschleic9053 The oxidation is, at least in part, coming from the torch, and, of course, from the surrounding atmosphere. If he used a glass sleeve with an ID a little closer to the OD of the rod, and placed the sleeve on the rod before heating, and heated the rod with induction, the heat from the rod would melt the glass sleeve and oxidation would be minimized. Ideally, the whole process should be done in an inert gas chamber, but that is complicated and expensive.
I believe you'll probably have better results if you have the glass already on the rod when you begin heating both. The oxide will not have a chance to form when it cools then. You may also get better heat distribution that way. Great work though guys, this stuff is incredible1
Work in progress! Always ggod to see. A question : what is the "defect rate" for H tubes? Some of them seem to have "missing" digits. How many tubes do you have to build to get one that passes all the tests and will be good for delivery? Best regards, France.
Hi! They still didnt evolved from development to series production, rejection rate is around 100% now. But getting better!
@@daliborfarny They will be expensive. If I can afford 4 of them someday, I will have one of your Nixies clock at home. Thanks
@@ChristopheD_ 🙏
10:37 soft jaws for the little chuck made from some heat insulating material?
Would it make sense to use an inductive heater to (pre)heat the metal, so you don’t add any contamination through using a flame?
hey Dalibor... question for you.... during the cleaning routine of the nixie tube what would cause the element to only glow half way up of the number... the tube works fine during normal operation.. its only during the cleaning routine...
How are these different thank nixie tubes? Am I missing something?
I winced when the relay broke.
Me too, I didn't get what happened in the first moment :-)
Me to. My wife asked what happened :-)
So what did happen?
It looked the side arm caught on something. We all cried for you when it happened.
I don't think it would hurt if you turned down your lathe speed.
Ни чего страшного! На ошибках учатся.
It`s a shame Kevin Teaford is not uploading anymore.
A 3 jaw chuck within a 3 jaw chuck.. I think is not the best for concentricity. Maybe using a 4 jaw to hold the tungsten might be better (for concentricity, processwise it would lead to more work on dialing the rod in). Don't know how tight tolerances need to be, just thinking out loud. Love to see your work and progress. Cheers!
I sincerely hope you provide free Crocs for all your employees 😉
At 13:18 : Shit , Curva , merde , chiasse !
Делал-делал и бах, расколотил. печально
13:20 ohne Handschuhe, Bruder Ich empfehle dir etwas vorsichtig sein, mehr wichtiger sind deine Hände, deine Arm und deine Augen. Ich hab nur bis ihr deine video gesehen.
Viel Erfolg bei nächste mal.
"Trying making"...
What 'ism is that?
Many of the spam in america has
This English grammatical error..
I absolutely love what you do please do not mistake me for a hater :) cheers!
It's a verb or the object of the verb depending upon what ur talking about and in what context. For example a socialist believes in socialism. Socialist is the noun socialism is the verb. This is due in most part to English being a germanic base language. Where as most romance languages flip the relationship between noun and verb, some languages such as creole (at least hatian creole) doesn't use conjugation of verbs instead uses context clues to describe the object of the verb. Most Americans do not use double verbage as u suggest. Americans would say. "Trying to make..." or "try making..." the first example is first person statment which in perfect grammatically correct writing could use something like "I am trying to make...." the second would be a third person and should read "you/we/they should try making...". Hope this helps. In practice native speakers tend to leave out the, you should, or I am, statements of the sentence because context clues tell us the who or what without added exposition.
Interesting, I am not an English native speaker, so I make a lot of mistakes.. In this particular case, I wanted to keep the title as short as possible..
Cool!
@@daliborfarny Nor am I a native speaker. But your english is as good as mine!!!
Single line numbers was better😢