Hehe, thanks mate. Yeah, you caught me, it was actually my 5th, but the 4th was never finished because I fu**** it up. So it’s the 4th finished one. Believe me, you don’t want to see the first two. True beginner pieces :) Basically my third model ever was the Bismarck you can see on my first RUclips video. Roughly three years later I’m sure no beginner anymore, but honestly I wouldn’t call myself a master modeler. These people, they have just another level. Maybe one day I can get there, but there is still a lot to learn and to try out. Nevertheless, I really appreciate your compliment. We often see ourselves different and especially when it comes to some kind of art form, it’s really satisfying when others are enjoying the work I created :)
Nice work you're very talented. I was in the AF 85'-89' as a Fuel System's Mechanic on the F-4E & F-4G Wild Weasels. What a beautiful beast to be around. I can't speak for the Marines but our birds were washed on a regular basis to keep corrosion from becoming an issue. Here's a few things that you may or may not want to take into consideration. Under the tail where the exhaust is was a combination of somewhat shiny & dull aluminum panels with a good amount of black covering them. The thin lines going perpendicular was a nice touch. The areas that had some dark streaking were connection points on the belly, wheel wells and their panels, rivets & screws all over the skin, and on the centerline tank there are two seams, the nose cone and tail cone. The center section is one piece. the grease, fuel, hydraulic fluid that would streak from the places mentioned would do so going straight back because it could only go back when flying so damn fast. You nailed the cockpit as they were definitely a scratched up black interior. Tires were a dull black and never dirty since they never saw dirt but the wheels (rims) had hydraulic fluid on them. As I said at the beginning, you did a great job and are talented. Thanks for sharing your work.
Thank you very much for the informations. Really interesting stuff, that i will consider when building my next bird. As i mentioned in the video, that was just my 4th airplane so far and i would say i'm currently in an "experimental phase". I know, some other air modelers also tend to weather their models to dirty, which defentily makes them "pop-out", but is somehow like you say (and also others) unrealistic. For me personal, i doubt i've the skills yet to make a good looking AND realistic bird. Maybe in a few years we can talk about that, because talent is nothing without experience. Let me talk a bit about the making of the F-4 i presentend here. When i started, i wanted to make a more realistic airplane then i eventually did. I browse around and searched for some inspirations and then i got the idea to make a diorama with an airplane on it. So i decided to use this one for kind of "jungle airfield diorama". And there is where things start to go wrong (in the sence of doing it "realistic"), because i can't replicate the da nang airbase (or parts of it) in 1/48 scale and make it look somehow good. Needless to say, i don't have the room or time for that. So i go the "diorama" route and improvise a bit, at the end i'm planning a small airfield with some jungle behind it (thats also no way realistic, if i look at pictures of the airbase where this F-4 was stationed). Then for example, i start to make the tires to look dirty to match the ground it will stand on the diorama. Things get more wrong when you did misstakes on your model like i did. I didn't record that on camera, but it's still somehow visible. When i sprayed the walkways, the decals where already attached and the masking take took some of the decals of, causing the first few chips on the decals. I first was like "what the f***, i'm so stupid". Then i thought, okay, well, i build this thing so long, can't fix this now, i make some more chips on the decals. But then i can't paint it look like fresh and clean with chipped decals, that would look... aweful ;) And sometimes, there is this inner voice in me, that tells me: hey, do it like you think it should look good. If we see scale modeling as a kind of art form, my words make probably a bit more sence: If we took a look at pictures of humans or buildings, do we really only like the onces that are painted realistic? Some of the most expensive artworks portraiing humans aren't nearby realistic. I personal don't consider myself an artist, scale modeling is a hobby for me. I'm a software developer for 20 years now, and scale modeling helps me "free my mind" from the "logical" things my brain needs to think about most of the time. Painting scale models helps me with that and then i just don't want to think about whats realistic or not, i just want to make it look good. I've hard doubt that any F-4 (Marines or not) looked this dirty in reality. I was of course fully aware of that, and making my work public, it's a total valid point to bring that up (i'm also aware that there is a broad discussion going on this topic). Of course, i can understand that if you worked with these things, that my work just feels "off". But let me say, your comment bring a lot of insiprations for me as a young modeler, that i'll take in consideration for future builds. I can't promise to implement everything in my future works, but i'll try.
Fabulous job of an old warhorse! But lost a point for authenticity. The WS (Whiskey Sierra) on the vertical stabilator is exclusive domain of VMFA 323 Death Rattlers. Worked on the real deal at MCAS El Toro in ‘71.
@@DavidJames-b7q Thank you very much. You’re absolutely right. I messed up the decals and destroyed the correct ones that are actually used for the airplane. So that’s more of a fantasy version. If you look more closely, you find also other wrong decals used for the same reason. Not on purpose, more because of human errors.
Thank you :) Just try it, and you will get better at it by doing it. I hope my videos can help you, thats actually my biggest hope conserning my videos / channel. If you've any questions, feel free to ask me anytime. Take care, too.
@@Drewsmodels Mostly I use the oils that are made specific for scale modeling. Actually if you watch the video, at the beginning when I start to use a color it will be displayed on the top left corner which paint I’m currently using. For dot filters I use ammo migs oilbrushers, because I like that they all have their own brush included makes life much more easier when using these techniques. For streaking I prefer the oils from Abteilung 502. But I also heard good things about W&N Oils, unfortunately they are not available in my area.
@@GeneralPelleScaleModels One more stupid question and I'll leave you alone! I am looking for a new video editing program. What do you use? I like your text graphics, etc. I will soon have access to Adobe Premier Pro through an employee subscription. Just wondering!
@@Drewsmodels I use Final Cut Pro, but that’s only available on Macs. I use some plugins I bought for, so that credit goes more to them. I’m just throwing them together ;) But as far as I know, things like this also exists for Adobe Premiere. Unfortunately I don’t know where you can get them, but Google probably helps with that.
Hi General, that was a totally awsome build of a very iconic aircraft, you have done a excellent job and I have subscribed to your channel, the F4 is o e of my favourite aircraft, very bext regards from Australia.
Very good build video and an excellent looking model. What is the brand of aftermarket decals that you used? I'm sorry if you mentioned it and I missed it!
Thanks Dan, glad you like it. No I didn’t mentioned that, sorry. I used eduards good morning da nang (www.scalemates.com/kits/eduard-d48096-f-4b-good-morning-da-nang--1375115) decal set.
Absolutely fantastic and stunning work. I have 1/32 to start and this helps immensely. I always have trouble with washes especially the AK ones, they don’t seem to want to come off!! What would you recommend and any more tips??
Thank you very much. It’s always nice to hear that my videos come in handy. My process with washing goes like this: 1. apply the main coat, decals and so on 2. Make sure the surface is smooth, find uneven places with your finger and sand them carefully with 1500-2000 grid. Make sure to not destroy any details while doing so. You should skip this step when using liqueur paints, they are smooth anyway. 3. spray 2 light coats of glossy varnish. That’s important. Wait a little bit between the coats. The acrylic glossy varnish will give you a surface that’s easy to work with. Wait at least 24 hours to dry, 48 hours also doesn’t hurt (better safe then sorry). Repeat step 2 on places where necessary. 4. Apply the wash. Make sure you don’t build it up. Wait for 40 minutes. The time depends on the condition where you build the model (temperature, wet air,…). If you wait to long, it’s hard to remove. For me it’s 40 minutes, for you It might be 20 minutes or one hour. 5. Remove it: I use removing sponges from ammo mig these days for the heavy work. They even work without thinner, but on harder to remove places it’s easier to add some odorless thinner to the sponge. The thinner will react with the enamel, make it easy to remove. I also suggest having a wide range of different model specific cotton swabs, like the once’s sold by Mr hobby or tamiya. They work better then the once’s from the supermarket, because they are much more stronger (or less „hairy“). They can be used for harder to reach places or where the enamel cured to much. I also usually work in sections. Don’t wash the model all at once’s, do it in multiple sessions step by steps. That’s much more easier then doing the whole model at once (removing takes time, the rest would cure meanwhile). It’s also a good idea to practice this technique on a scrape plastic or plastic sheets. Feel free to ask questions if you have any. Happy building :)
@@GeneralPelleScaleModels thank you so much!! Just one more question. I believe this to be true so if I paint the main colour in acrylic I should use an enamel wash so I can use an enamel thinner to remove it so it won’t affect the acrylic?
@@waynejones2316 Thats correct. But it’s more about the varnish. The acrylic color alone can’t stand the thinner, because odorless thinner is to hot usually, and the wash will soak into your acrylic main coat (make it difficult to remove and risking to removing the acrylic color too). But the acrylic varnish will protect it. As you said correctly, you should use an acrylic medium before using enamels or oils (it doesn’t matter which one or even both). If you would use enamel colors (like the once’s sold by Revell) for your main coat, an acrylic wash would be the way to go. But yes, in your case enamel or oils are the right choice. The point why someone uses enamel washes is that they are pre thinned to be used as wash, with oil paints you’ve to create your own wash using thinner. That’s okay, but it’s more difficult to get the consistent correct.
@@GeneralPelleScaleModels fantastic….thank you for all your help and for replying. Going by this I don’t think I had put down a sufficient clear coat before the wash and it was just gripping. So thank you again.
Found this on Reddit. You’re very talented. How do you protect you models? Do you have them in display cases to keep the dust off of them? I haven’t built anything worth protecting yet ,but if I was on the level you are I would need to invest in something.
Thanks :) well, that question flips around on my head, too. I thought about some display cases, but they are way to expensive for that size. I probably will end up building my own display cases with pre-cut acrylic glasses. So currently, I don’t protect them very well but clean them from time to time using a makeup brush or the airbrush (with only air of course..)
Very nice looks 👍 ...I'm in the process of building this one now GREAT kit but if I build it again I will use aftermarket DECALS .....anyway HAPPY SCALING 👋.
Yeah, the decals that come with kit are thicker then they need to be, especially the insignia(s). Anyway, thank you, glad you like it. Happy building to you :)
@@klausherrmann1014 in 1:48 hat Tamiya bisher nur diese F-4 rausgebracht: www.scalemates.com/kits/tamiya-61121-f-4b-phantom-ii--1328414 Das Kit habe ich auch benutzt. Die anderen sind in 1:32 oder kleinerem Massstab.
A work of art...congratulations! At 33:54, the "worn" numbers of the VMFA 542 appear on the side fuselage and I ask what technique was used to wear out these numbers? Thank you.
Thanks for your kind words. First apply a gloss varnish to protect the paint job, apply the decals using a decal set/sol solution (like shown in the video), then wait for around 24 hours. After it has dried, put tamiya masking tape over the decal and directly remove it. First the carrier film will come off, but if you repeat that step some parts of the decals will „chipped“ away. Be careful tho not to remove the complete decal, but that shouldn’t happen with the sol solution applied. Be aware that this only works with thin decals, for example the once’s that eduard produces. With thicker one, like the once’s supplied with this kit from tamiya, this technique doesn’t work. I used a mix of eduard and tamiya decals in this build. Hope I could help you, happy building :)
@@GeneralPelleScaleModels Thank you very much for the information...congratulations for your skill and if possible, make a video with the step-by-step assembly of the 1/48 Kinetic Mirage IIIE kit...it will be very welcome
@@fabiosilva3799 I already took my eyes on that kit, be it has an Swiss army option (and I’m living in Switzerland), unfortunately I’ve already a large stack of 1/48 aircrafts I need to build. So if a mirage is coming, it’s probably still far ahead from now. But definitely keeping an eye on it, it’s a awesome looking fighter.
As far as I can recall them: medium grey, starship sludge, medium soil (or summer soil), dust (all ammo mig oilbrushers), light grey and faded white from Abteilung 502.
… and it only took a couple of thousand views until somebody figured it out. Honestly I thought that would happen more early. Anyway, I’m guilty on that. I destroyed some of the decals and had no replacement, so I had to improvise. The result is what we are seeing now :) thanks for pointing that out.
@@GeneralPelleScaleModels Not to be "that guy", but you did a really good job. I get the point it's not the decals but the technique of applying the paints and weathering. Again really great job!
@@rb15026 it’s all fine. Im honestly glad you pointed that out. Modeling is also about that details, and that one isn’t museum grade anyway (alone by the fact it has the wrong decals, it’s to dirty, …). Believe me when I broke the correct details I was pretty mad, nearly throw the model against the wall. But yes, didn’t want to waste all the time I put inside already. Lucky I didn’t do that, sometimes we just have to life with our mistakes and I do a lot of them while modeling, still kind of a new hobby for me, considering some ppl are already doing it for decades. So glad you like the build otherwise :)
Sure, but it’s already part of this diorama: ruclips.net/video/xXCmVeN95Ok/видео.html and that one hasn’t been built with shipping in mind (and I doubt it will survive intact…).
Thanks mate. Unfortunately music choices are really limited if you publish on RUclips and don’t want to get your channel closed… :) but I’ll keep that in mind for my next video.
Much of the pre shading and weathering has been wasted due to over spraying. This is a common mistake that modelers do. You can save a lot of effort by not doing this. Use all that fancy cutouts after and then adjust for shading.
Thank you very much for your feedback. You should keep in mind that this was the first time I tried preshading ever. Of course, I put it on the internet nevertheless, so your feedback is valid (and true). Hope I can do it better in future builds, skipping it isn’t an option honestly, because that’s not how human learn things ;)
Thanks Greg, yes i have a lot of them, mainly for their ease of use (and because they are acrylics, well, at least for the main coat). Just recently brought a spraying booth, so maybe switch to tamiya or similar in the future…
4th aircraft!!?.....sorry buddy, but that I won't believe. You have a masters touch. Superb finish, and, attention to detail.
Hehe, thanks mate. Yeah, you caught me, it was actually my 5th, but the 4th was never finished because I fu**** it up. So it’s the 4th finished one. Believe me, you don’t want to see the first two. True beginner pieces :) Basically my third model ever was the Bismarck you can see on my first RUclips video. Roughly three years later I’m sure no beginner anymore, but honestly I wouldn’t call myself a master modeler. These people, they have just another level. Maybe one day I can get there, but there is still a lot to learn and to try out. Nevertheless, I really appreciate your compliment. We often see ourselves different and especially when it comes to some kind of art form, it’s really satisfying when others are enjoying the work I created :)
So good, the time flew right by. Was kinda bummed it was over.
Thank you very much. Lucky there is a bit more content with the F4, checkout this video: ruclips.net/video/xXCmVeN95Ok/видео.html
Nice work you're very talented. I was in the AF 85'-89' as a Fuel System's Mechanic on the F-4E & F-4G Wild Weasels. What a beautiful beast to be around. I can't speak for the Marines but our birds were washed on a regular basis to keep corrosion from becoming an issue. Here's a few things that you may or may not want to take into consideration. Under the tail where the exhaust is was a combination of somewhat shiny & dull aluminum panels with a good amount of black covering them. The thin lines going perpendicular was a nice touch.
The areas that had some dark streaking were connection points on the belly, wheel wells and their panels, rivets & screws all over the skin, and on the centerline tank there are two seams, the nose cone and tail cone. The center section is one piece. the grease, fuel, hydraulic fluid that would streak from the places mentioned would do so going straight back because it could only go back when flying so damn fast.
You nailed the cockpit as they were definitely a scratched up black interior.
Tires were a dull black and never dirty since they never saw dirt but the wheels (rims) had hydraulic fluid on them.
As I said at the beginning, you did a great job and are talented. Thanks for sharing your work.
Thank you very much for the informations. Really interesting stuff, that i will consider when building my next bird. As i mentioned in the video, that was just my 4th airplane so far and i would say i'm currently in an "experimental phase". I know, some other air modelers also tend to weather their models to dirty, which defentily makes them "pop-out", but is somehow like you say (and also others) unrealistic. For me personal, i doubt i've the skills yet to make a good looking AND realistic bird. Maybe in a few years we can talk about that, because talent is nothing without experience. Let me talk a bit about the making of the F-4 i presentend here. When i started, i wanted to make a more realistic airplane then i eventually did. I browse around and searched for some inspirations and then i got the idea to make a diorama with an airplane on it. So i decided to use this one for kind of "jungle airfield diorama". And there is where things start to go wrong (in the sence of doing it "realistic"), because i can't replicate the da nang airbase (or parts of it) in 1/48 scale and make it look somehow good. Needless to say, i don't have the room or time for that. So i go the "diorama" route and improvise a bit, at the end i'm planning a small airfield with some jungle behind it (thats also no way realistic, if i look at pictures of the airbase where this F-4 was stationed). Then for example, i start to make the tires to look dirty to match the ground it will stand on the diorama. Things get more wrong when you did misstakes on your model like i did. I didn't record that on camera, but it's still somehow visible. When i sprayed the walkways, the decals where already attached and the masking take took some of the decals of, causing the first few chips on the decals. I first was like "what the f***, i'm so stupid". Then i thought, okay, well, i build this thing so long, can't fix this now, i make some more chips on the decals. But then i can't paint it look like fresh and clean with chipped decals, that would look... aweful ;) And sometimes, there is this inner voice in me, that tells me: hey, do it like you think it should look good. If we see scale modeling as a kind of art form, my words make probably a bit more sence: If we took a look at pictures of humans or buildings, do we really only like the onces that are painted realistic? Some of the most expensive artworks portraiing humans aren't nearby realistic. I personal don't consider myself an artist, scale modeling is a hobby for me. I'm a software developer for 20 years now, and scale modeling helps me "free my mind" from the "logical" things my brain needs to think about most of the time. Painting scale models helps me with that and then i just don't want to think about whats realistic or not, i just want to make it look good.
I've hard doubt that any F-4 (Marines or not) looked this dirty in reality. I was of course fully aware of that, and making my work public, it's a total valid point to bring that up (i'm also aware that there is a broad discussion going on this topic). Of course, i can understand that if you worked with these things, that my work just feels "off". But let me say, your comment bring a lot of insiprations for me as a young modeler, that i'll take in consideration for future builds. I can't promise to implement everything in my future works, but i'll try.
Well I've seen attention to detail before but this hits all kind of new levels and yet not looking overdone. Bravo sir, superb.
Thank you very much for your kind words. Very glad you’ve liked it :)
Sweet!🤗
I just finished my 48th Academy F4b, Good kit!... Now I can justify buying the Tamiya REALLY Nice Kit!
Thanks :) Never build the Academy Kit, but you can’t go wrong with the tamiya one. Awesome kit.
@@GeneralPelleScaleModels Yes the AC kit is more clean up and prep for sure BUT it's about 1/2 the price and does in the end make a accurate model...
I just got good with my airbrush but if I perfect weathering like you did I'm sure my F-4 will look as good as yours. Bravo!!
Also. Your build is so informative and easy to comprehend! I cannot praise you enough
Thank you very much for your comment, mate. Glad my videos come in handy :)
Fabulous job of an old warhorse! But lost a point for authenticity. The WS (Whiskey Sierra) on the vertical stabilator is exclusive domain of VMFA 323 Death Rattlers. Worked on the real deal at MCAS El Toro in ‘71.
@@DavidJames-b7q Thank you very much. You’re absolutely right. I messed up the decals and destroyed the correct ones that are actually used for the airplane. So that’s more of a fantasy version. If you look more closely, you find also other wrong decals used for the same reason. Not on purpose, more because of human errors.
Love the way this has turned out. Really impressive.
Glad you like it :)
Fantastic build! I tend to not weather my models as much because I don’t feel I am very good at it. I may try some of your techniques. Take care! Drew
Thank you :) Just try it, and you will get better at it by doing it. I hope my videos can help you, thats actually my biggest hope conserning my videos / channel. If you've any questions, feel free to ask me anytime. Take care, too.
@@GeneralPelleScaleModels Thank you! What kind of oils do you use for weathering (i.e. cheap or Windsor Newton, etc?).
@@Drewsmodels Mostly I use the oils that are made specific for scale modeling. Actually if you watch the video, at the beginning when I start to use a color it will be displayed on the top left corner which paint I’m currently using. For dot filters I use ammo migs oilbrushers, because I like that they all have their own brush included makes life much more easier when using these techniques. For streaking I prefer the oils from Abteilung 502. But I also heard good things about W&N Oils, unfortunately they are not available in my area.
@@GeneralPelleScaleModels One more stupid question and I'll leave you alone! I am looking for a new video editing program. What do you use? I like your text graphics, etc. I will soon have access to Adobe Premier Pro through an employee subscription. Just wondering!
@@Drewsmodels I use Final Cut Pro, but that’s only available on Macs. I use some plugins I bought for, so that credit goes more to them. I’m just throwing them together ;) But as far as I know, things like this also exists for Adobe Premiere. Unfortunately I don’t know where you can get them, but Google probably helps with that.
Excellent job. Thanks for posting.
Thank you :) And thanks for watching.
Precioso trabajo
¡Muchas gracias! Me alegra mucho que te guste el trabajo. ¡Espero que disfrutes del resto del proyecto!
@@GeneralPelleScaleModels Seguro que si
Great build, love the final result.
Thank you very much. Appreciate that you like it :)
Excellent video and all the hard work and long hours.
Which aftermarket product did you use to replace the landing gears?
Thank you very much. Glad you liked it :) This one: www.scalemates.com/kits/eduard-648700-f-4b-undercarriage-legs-bronze--1380454
@@GeneralPelleScaleModels Thank you
Unglaubliche gute Arbeite 👍
Dankeschön ❤️
Hi General, that was a totally awsome build of a very iconic aircraft, you have done a excellent job and I have subscribed to your channel, the F4 is o e of my favourite aircraft, very bext regards from Australia.
Thanks for joining my channel. Glad you like this build, I’ve some more plans with this bird, so stay tuned for the next video :)
Excellent work!!! also a very informative video! love it
Thank you very much. Glad you like it and hopeful help you out with some techniques :)
@@GeneralPelleScaleModels always learning something; Thanks again and keep the videos coming! :):)
Very good build video and an excellent looking model. What is the brand of aftermarket decals that you used? I'm sorry if you mentioned it and I missed it!
Thanks Dan, glad you like it. No I didn’t mentioned that, sorry. I used eduards good morning da nang (www.scalemates.com/kits/eduard-d48096-f-4b-good-morning-da-nang--1375115) decal set.
Absolutely fantastic and stunning work. I have 1/32 to start and this helps immensely. I always have trouble with washes especially the AK ones, they don’t seem to want to come off!! What would you recommend and any more tips??
Thank you very much. It’s always nice to hear that my videos come in handy. My process with washing goes like this:
1. apply the main coat, decals and so on
2. Make sure the surface is smooth, find uneven places with your finger and sand them carefully with 1500-2000 grid. Make sure to not destroy any details while doing so. You should skip this step when using liqueur paints, they are smooth anyway.
3. spray 2 light coats of glossy varnish. That’s important. Wait a little bit between the coats. The acrylic glossy varnish will give you a surface that’s easy to work with. Wait at least 24 hours to dry, 48 hours also doesn’t hurt (better safe then sorry). Repeat step 2 on places where necessary.
4. Apply the wash. Make sure you don’t build it up. Wait for 40 minutes. The time depends on the condition where you build the model (temperature, wet air,…). If you wait to long, it’s hard to remove. For me it’s 40 minutes, for you It might be 20 minutes or one hour.
5. Remove it: I use removing sponges from ammo mig these days for the heavy work. They even work without thinner, but on harder to remove places it’s easier to add some odorless thinner to the sponge. The thinner will react with the enamel, make it easy to remove. I also suggest having a wide range of different model specific cotton swabs, like the once’s sold by Mr hobby or tamiya. They work better then the once’s from the supermarket, because they are much more stronger (or less „hairy“). They can be used for harder to reach places or where the enamel cured to much.
I also usually work in sections. Don’t wash the model all at once’s, do it in multiple sessions step by steps. That’s much more easier then doing the whole model at once (removing takes time, the rest would cure meanwhile). It’s also a good idea to practice this technique on a scrape plastic or plastic sheets.
Feel free to ask questions if you have any. Happy building :)
@@GeneralPelleScaleModels thank you so much!! Just one more question. I believe this to be true so if I paint the main colour in acrylic I should use an enamel wash so I can use an enamel thinner to remove it so it won’t affect the acrylic?
Or would an oil wash be better?
@@waynejones2316 Thats correct. But it’s more about the varnish. The acrylic color alone can’t stand the thinner, because odorless thinner is to hot usually, and the wash will soak into your acrylic main coat (make it difficult to remove and risking to removing the acrylic color too). But the acrylic varnish will protect it. As you said correctly, you should use an acrylic medium before using enamels or oils (it doesn’t matter which one or even both). If you would use enamel colors (like the once’s sold by Revell) for your main coat, an acrylic wash would be the way to go. But yes, in your case enamel or oils are the right choice. The point why someone uses enamel washes is that they are pre thinned to be used as wash, with oil paints you’ve to create your own wash using thinner. That’s okay, but it’s more difficult to get the consistent correct.
@@GeneralPelleScaleModels fantastic….thank you for all your help and for replying. Going by this I don’t think I had put down a sufficient clear coat before the wash and it was just gripping. So thank you again.
Great video
Thanks mate
Found this on Reddit. You’re very talented. How do you protect you models? Do you have them in display cases to keep the dust off of them? I haven’t built anything worth protecting yet ,but if I was on the level you are I would need to invest in something.
Thanks :) well, that question flips around on my head, too. I thought about some display cases, but they are way to expensive for that size. I probably will end up building my own display cases with pre-cut acrylic glasses. So currently, I don’t protect them very well but clean them from time to time using a makeup brush or the airbrush (with only air of course..)
Very nice looks 👍 ...I'm in the process of building this one now GREAT kit but if I build it again I will use aftermarket DECALS .....anyway HAPPY SCALING 👋.
Yeah, the decals that come with kit are thicker then they need to be, especially the insignia(s). Anyway, thank you, glad you like it. Happy building to you :)
Hallo welche Phantom von Tamiya ist es...🤔
@@klausherrmann1014 in 1:48 hat Tamiya bisher nur diese F-4 rausgebracht: www.scalemates.com/kits/tamiya-61121-f-4b-phantom-ii--1328414
Das Kit habe ich auch benutzt. Die anderen sind in 1:32 oder kleinerem Massstab.
A work of art...congratulations!
At 33:54, the "worn" numbers of the VMFA 542 appear on the side fuselage and I ask what technique was used to wear out these numbers?
Thank you.
Thanks for your kind words. First apply a gloss varnish to protect the paint job, apply the decals using a decal set/sol solution (like shown in the video), then wait for around 24 hours. After it has dried, put tamiya masking tape over the decal and directly remove it. First the carrier film will come off, but if you repeat that step some parts of the decals will „chipped“ away. Be careful tho not to remove the complete decal, but that shouldn’t happen with the sol solution applied. Be aware that this only works with thin decals, for example the once’s that eduard produces. With thicker one, like the once’s supplied with this kit from tamiya, this technique doesn’t work. I used a mix of eduard and tamiya decals in this build. Hope I could help you, happy building :)
@@GeneralPelleScaleModels Thank you very much for the information...congratulations for your skill and if possible, make a video with the step-by-step assembly of the 1/48 Kinetic Mirage IIIE kit...it will be very welcome
@@fabiosilva3799 I already took my eyes on that kit, be it has an Swiss army option (and I’m living in Switzerland), unfortunately I’ve already a large stack of 1/48 aircrafts I need to build. So if a mirage is coming, it’s probably still far ahead from now. But definitely keeping an eye on it, it’s a awesome looking fighter.
What are the oil colors used in the dot filter process @ 35:05 ?
As far as I can recall them: medium grey, starship sludge, medium soil (or summer soil), dust (all ammo mig oilbrushers), light grey and faded white from Abteilung 502.
@@GeneralPelleScaleModels Thank you!
Good build, but your markings are wrong for VMFA-542 those belong to VMFA-323 ;)
😉😊
… and it only took a couple of thousand views until somebody figured it out. Honestly I thought that would happen more early. Anyway, I’m guilty on that. I destroyed some of the decals and had no replacement, so I had to improvise. The result is what we are seeing now :) thanks for pointing that out.
@@GeneralPelleScaleModels Not to be "that guy", but you did a really good job. I get the point it's not the decals but the technique of applying the paints and weathering. Again really great job!
@@rb15026 it’s all fine. Im honestly glad you pointed that out. Modeling is also about that details, and that one isn’t museum grade anyway (alone by the fact it has the wrong decals, it’s to dirty, …). Believe me when I broke the correct details I was pretty mad, nearly throw the model against the wall. But yes, didn’t want to waste all the time I put inside already. Lucky I didn’t do that, sometimes we just have to life with our mistakes and I do a lot of them while modeling, still kind of a new hobby for me, considering some ppl are already doing it for decades. So glad you like the build otherwise :)
Had fun guessing which songs the music ripped off.
What manufacturer's decal was used on the model?
Some of them are the once Tamiya provides with the kit, some are from eduard F-4B Good Morning Da Nang (D48096).
@@GeneralPelleScaleModels I'm interested in decals for pilot helmets. Which set contains them?
@@skyhowk19 they are included in the tamiya kit.
for sale?
Sure, but it’s already part of this diorama: ruclips.net/video/xXCmVeN95Ok/видео.html and that one hasn’t been built with shipping in mind (and I doubt it will survive intact…).
Woooooooooo
Thanks mate :)
Nice video and great build, but the music was annoying.
Thanks mate. Unfortunately music choices are really limited if you publish on RUclips and don’t want to get your channel closed… :) but I’ll keep that in mind for my next video.
Much of the pre shading and weathering has been wasted due to over spraying. This is a common mistake that modelers do. You can save a lot of effort by not doing this. Use all that fancy cutouts after and then adjust for shading.
Thank you very much for your feedback. You should keep in mind that this was the first time I tried preshading ever. Of course, I put it on the internet nevertheless, so your feedback is valid (and true). Hope I can do it better in future builds, skipping it isn’t an option honestly, because that’s not how human learn things ;)
Nice build..I knew it would be when I saw you use Ammo products.. Love them👍IG#modelmulitia
Thanks Greg, yes i have a lot of them, mainly for their ease of use (and because they are acrylics, well, at least for the main coat). Just recently brought a spraying booth, so maybe switch to tamiya or similar in the future…