Am I missing something or pulling the crankshaft before screwing in the flywheel nut doesnt make any sense? The nut pulls it all the way out when locked..Also, shouldn't that nut being closed with a torque wrench with a specific torque?
The design of a collet makes it so that it can bind wherever it is, it won't necessarily pull the crankshaft out. There probably would be a specific torque setting that would be perfect, but I don't know of anyone that has come up with that number, plus carrying a torque wrench to a race seems a little bit unnecessary.
@@tytessmann5842 Clear. I can't really say a lot regarding RC cars (specifically engines in this case) but from my professional racing background I may expect that tightening torque to be a pretty important detail in the assembly (think about the bearing also), and temperature has to be taken in account. I think having a chat with engines manufacturers and tuners about it may open some good points. Btw thank you for your feedback!
How come you don’t use a vented bell ? I’ve just heard other people say that vented bells are better cause they let all the alloy/carbon dust out of the surface that the shoes engage on.
Depending on the track conditions I sometimes do use the vented bell, but where there is a track surface that has a lot of small rocks, my concern is that a rock can get into the vented bell and lock something up.
Those bearings are (mostly) only used at idle speeds. At idle, when the car is standing still, the clutch is disengaged. The engine rpm hovers around 1,800 while the clutch bell doesn't spin at all (it's at 0 rpm). Those two bearings (the clutch bearings) sit between the clutch bell and the engine shaft. They allow the engine shaft to spin freely within the clutch bell. The outside bearing race contacts the clutch bell while the inside race contacts the engine shaft. Once the engine revs up, the clutch shoes expand and make contact inside of the clutch bell. The friction causes the clutch bell to start rotating, which makes the car start moving. As speed continues increasing, the shoes expand against the clutch bell more, causing more friction, and more direct engagement. Eventually, when the clutch is fully engaged and the clutch bell is moving at the same speed. Now, since those two surfaces are rotating at the same speed, the inside race and outside race rotate together simultaneously. So basically, when the clutch is engaged, both of the bearing races spin - but they rotate together synchronously - so the bearing isn't actually doing any work. Hope that makes sense.
@@JeffEmbracedDCok think , I got it now, iam not an engineer so I was looking at it as.... but bearings are made to spin or take a load will spinning thrust bearing. thanks have a good one🖖🏾
Not entirely true. The largest diameter of the inner bearing race is smaller than the smallest diameter of the outer race. So even when the clutch is fully engaged the is a rotational difference that will cause the ball bearings to rotate but not revolve around tje crank. This causes heat. Similarly the same happens when using plastic side seals. The only bearing thrust will be caused from a less than perfect square contact angle between the center spur gear and clutch bell teeth.
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Great job, man! You keep improving in each video you put out. Looking forward to the rest.
This is a really useful video. Learn a few tricks from you thankyou Ty and God Bless.
Some really great advice from a top pro. Great job Ty looking forward to more vids like this.
Thanks I was allways oiling my bearings, good info. 👍😎
Good to see you running FX mate.
Wish had this video 6 months ago. Chewed up my back plate pretty good on a new Blok engine...
What spray are you using? Brake cleaner?
Going to be a very informative series Thank you...!!!
Am I missing something or pulling the crankshaft before screwing in the flywheel nut doesnt make any sense? The nut pulls it all the way out when locked..Also, shouldn't that nut being closed with a torque wrench with a specific torque?
The design of a collet makes it so that it can bind wherever it is, it won't necessarily pull the crankshaft out. There probably would be a specific torque setting that would be perfect, but I don't know of anyone that has come up with that number, plus carrying a torque wrench to a race seems a little bit unnecessary.
@@tytessmann5842 Clear. I can't really say a lot regarding RC cars (specifically engines in this case) but from my professional racing background I may expect that tightening torque to be a pretty important detail in the assembly (think about the bearing also), and temperature has to be taken in account. I think having a chat with engines manufacturers and tuners about it may open some good points. Btw thank you for your feedback!
Can i get a link to your 3d printed flywheel wrench I'd really be interested in printing it, thx
The first one we drew and printed didn't last very well, so we will be working on it to make it more durable.
How come you don’t use a vented bell ? I’ve just heard other people say that vented bells are better cause they let all the alloy/carbon dust out of the surface that the shoes engage on.
Depending on the track conditions I sometimes do use the vented bell, but where there is a track surface that has a lot of small rocks, my concern is that a rock can get into the vented bell and lock something up.
@@tytessmann5842 thanks for the reply 👍
Good tip thanks Ty 🤙😎
What clutch is that
Looks like X-ray 4 shoe clutch.
It is the Xray 4 shoe clutch, which I always use, it is amazing.
When the clutch is engaged the bearings aren't spining🤔explain iam lost
Those bearings are (mostly) only used at idle speeds. At idle, when the car is standing still, the clutch is disengaged. The engine rpm hovers around 1,800 while the clutch bell doesn't spin at all (it's at 0 rpm). Those two bearings (the clutch bearings) sit between the clutch bell and the engine shaft. They allow the engine shaft to spin freely within the clutch bell. The outside bearing race contacts the clutch bell while the inside race contacts the engine shaft.
Once the engine revs up, the clutch shoes expand and make contact inside of the clutch bell. The friction causes the clutch bell to start rotating, which makes the car start moving. As speed continues increasing, the shoes expand against the clutch bell more, causing more friction, and more direct engagement. Eventually, when the clutch is fully engaged and the clutch bell is moving at the same speed. Now, since those two surfaces are rotating at the same speed, the inside race and outside race rotate together simultaneously.
So basically, when the clutch is engaged, both of the bearing races spin - but they rotate together synchronously - so the bearing isn't actually doing any work.
Hope that makes sense.
@@JeffEmbracedDCok think , I got it now, iam not an engineer so I was looking at it as.... but bearings are made to spin or take a load will spinning thrust bearing. thanks have a good one🖖🏾
@@JeffEmbracedDC I couldn't have said it better myself.
Not entirely true.
The largest diameter of the inner bearing race is smaller than the smallest diameter of the outer race. So even when the clutch is fully engaged the is a rotational difference that will cause the ball bearings to rotate but not revolve around tje crank. This causes heat.
Similarly the same happens when using plastic side seals.
The only bearing thrust will be caused from a less than perfect square contact angle between the center spur gear and clutch bell teeth.
Is Adam breaking in your engines..
Yes
I get Adam to break in all my engines, I wouldn't trust my engines to any other break in service unless I would be doing it myself.