This is a fantastic product, and works well with the Seal-Lac and Royal Lac products that I am using BUT...a word of caution...make sure to seal all end grain with a light coat of finish...I just use the Seal Lac to do this...BEFORE applying any Aqua Coat. This will prevent the blotchy spots that a water based anything will leave on your guitar's end grain areas. Thanks Robbie for that advise. Too late for the last guitar but in time for the one I am finishing now. It cured the problem.
I am considering staining the back of my Les Paul kit unfinished kit guitar with a redish or burgundy type of stain and then air spray painting the front with a cherry red or apple red automotive paint. The body is basswood and the neck maple. Do I need to fill pores on both sides and the neck? How do I stain black the insides of the hollow sections in the front? Should I stain black the wood lines in the front and sand them light before spray painting? Should I suse a primer in the front area before using automotive paint? Sorry for all the questions.
Great Video. I have a Gibson Les Paul Special Faded that I applied a Formby's Tung Oil finish to over 5 years ago, it looks good but I wish I had filled the grain first. Do you think this product would work over the tung oil? Then maybe Tung oil over the Aqua Coat? Thanks
Excellent video, Robbie. I have a question, though. I am planning on using Tru-Oil as a finishing agent for my present guitar build. If I use Aqua Coat as a base pore-filling agent and Tru-Oil as the finish, will the tru-Oil be "compatible" with the water-based pore filler? I've already tried calling Aqua Coat and their customer service rep would not commit other than to say that I should (to state the obvious) try the combination on a piece of scrap before applying to the instrument. What do you think?
Robert. Ive used Aqua coat pore filler and agree it's an excellent product in several ways. Have u tried any of the other water based finishing products from Aqua coat, specifically the lacquer or thane for the clear coat?
I've heard that it's recommended to shellac-seal before using Aqua Coat. At least one quite successful German Luthier french-polishes his guitars, and finishes with tru oil - presumably to add some kind of protection (?).
Yes. Using a paintbrush is just fine as long as you protect the parts of your instrument that would be a problem if dust got in such as your top. Apply a coat of shellac to those parts for better protection just in case!
I'm looking for a pore filler that would be as close to what Gibson was using on their electric guitars in the 1950s - 1960s. Do you have any idea what they used and which, if any of your products comes close. Using an epoxy grain filler seems to defeat the benefits of using a laquer finish (in my opinion) This water based product seems like it would be a better solution as far as allowing the wood to be more resonant.
Most likely back in the 50's they were using an oil based product. Epoxy could potentially be detrimental to tone but probably not any worse than what a finish would do to tone. There are several ways to apply epoxy. I apply it and then sand all the way back to bare wood leaving it only in the pores. This is probably better then what a vinyl sealer would do to tone. If your ear can hear the difference between types of pore fill then you have a much better ear than mine. Happy Building.
Hi Robert, I've tested various products for pore filling on electric guitar and nowadays, I haven`t found anything that makes the job easy and effective, most time I end up in a real mess, expecially with pastes made out solids that get hard and have to sand too much, appart from this, always tend to tint the wood and is easy to provocate peels. Do you think this product is easy to apply and is the definitive product to achieve a professional finish? Is it compatible with nitro or poliurethane? Thanks in advance from Dominica Republic.
Mariela, Any product will work. You just need to learn how to work with that product and don't give up until you have worked all the bugs out of the system. The same thing can be said for the finishing products. Folks that don't know how to work with a product blame the result on the product rather than the technique. They then move onto the next product and repeat the same undesirable results and this becomes a vicious cycle. Learn to work with the product before moving on to the next best one. They all work. There is no perfect product. When living in Brazil I used to use used coffee grounds or sawdust and shellac as a pore filler. Aquacoat is not a miracle filler. It is easy to apply and dries quickly but will take several coats. Let it cure completely before applying topcoats. It is compatible with lacquer and poliuretano. Do sample boards to work out the kinks before attempting to apply to your project. Good luck and Saludos desde Colorado.
I wouldn't say it's appropriate for crack repair. If you are just filling, I recommend GluBoost Fill 'n Finish www.lmii.com/glue/23264-gluboost-fill-n-finish-pro-formula-2-oz-includes-2-whip-tips-and-2-extender-nozzles.html . Remember domestic shipping is free! If you are actually repairing, here is a link to a video on back crack repair: www.lmii.com/blog/2017/10/08/crack-repair/ Natalie
@@OBrienGuitars Not it was on roasted ash. I also tried over roasted maple and went perfect. Look like over roasted ash it mess something. If you have an email I can send you some example pic, I have already informed Aquacoat about that
Luthiers Mercantile Instructional Videos That’s why I was asking about the other product, because as soon as applied it, it just turned black, the same color as my stain. It was a nightmare. The other product claimed you could color it, or let it dry clear, or mix it with dust to make a slurry. Thanks
This is a fantastic product, and works well with the Seal-Lac and Royal Lac products that I am using BUT...a word of caution...make sure to seal all end grain with a light coat of finish...I just use the Seal Lac to do this...BEFORE applying any Aqua Coat. This will prevent the blotchy spots that a water based anything will leave on your guitar's end grain areas. Thanks Robbie for that advise. Too late for the last guitar but in time for the one I am finishing now. It cured the problem.
I just bought some Aquacoat® Clear Wood Grain Filler for my Paulownia Tele body.
I am considering staining the back of my Les Paul kit unfinished kit guitar with a redish or burgundy type of stain and then air spray painting the front with a cherry red or apple red automotive paint. The body is basswood and the neck maple. Do I need to fill pores on both sides and the neck? How do I stain black the insides of the hollow sections in the front? Should I stain black the wood lines in the front and sand them light before spray painting? Should I suse a primer in the front area before using automotive paint? Sorry for all the questions.
Great Video. I have a Gibson Les Paul Special Faded that I applied a Formby's Tung Oil finish to over 5 years ago, it looks good but I wish I had filled the grain first. Do you think this product would work over the tung oil? Then maybe Tung oil over the Aqua Coat? Thanks
how did you remove the dust from the pores?
Excellent video, Robbie. I have a question, though. I am planning on using Tru-Oil as a finishing agent for my present guitar build. If I use Aqua Coat as a base pore-filling agent and Tru-Oil as the finish, will the tru-Oil be "compatible" with the water-based pore filler? I've already tried calling Aqua Coat and their customer service rep would not commit other than to say that I should (to state the obvious) try the combination on a piece of scrap before applying to the instrument. What do you think?
Yes, it should work fine. However, make sure the pore fill is completely dry and also do some sample pieces before trying this on your guitar.
Robert. Ive used Aqua coat pore filler and agree it's an excellent product in several ways. Have u tried any of the other water based finishing products from Aqua coat, specifically the lacquer or thane for the clear coat?
johnnypk1963
We haven't Johnny, but we'd love to hear any feedback on these products.
I'm also considering using tru oil as well
i know its probably a silly question
do you need to seal the top before using this product?
I've heard that it's recommended to shellac-seal before using Aqua Coat. At least one quite successful German Luthier french-polishes his guitars, and finishes with tru oil - presumably to add some kind of protection (?).
HAHAHA!!! Your video is on the site I bought mine from!! Klingspors Woodworking Shop...lol
if i don't have compressed air to blow dust out of the pores will a simple paint brush do the trick?
Yes. Using a paintbrush is just fine as long as you protect the parts of your instrument that would be a problem if dust got in such as your top. Apply a coat of shellac to those parts for better protection just in case!
How would this work on pine or spruce??
Hi Robert
Interesting product. Do you think it would work well with french polish? Thanks for all your great videos!
Sure, This product can be used under shellac. Make sure to give ample cure time before apply the shellac or any other topcoat.
fantastic. thanks Robert! I'm going to try it out with my next LMI order.
@@catrionanicthamhais Free shipping is also nice. Happy Finishing!
Alas... free shipping is not for one such as I as I am living in the north of Thailand! :-)
I'm looking for a pore filler that would be as close to what Gibson was using on their electric guitars in the 1950s - 1960s. Do you have any idea what they used and which, if any of your products comes close. Using an epoxy grain filler seems to defeat the benefits of using a laquer finish (in my opinion) This water based product seems like it would be a better solution as far as allowing the wood to be more resonant.
Most likely back in the 50's they were using an oil based product. Epoxy could potentially be detrimental to tone but probably not any worse than what a finish would do to tone. There are several ways to apply epoxy. I apply it and then sand all the way back to bare wood leaving it only in the pores. This is probably better then what a vinyl sealer would do to tone. If your ear can hear the difference between types of pore fill then you have a much better ear than mine. Happy Building.
Thanks! I'm trying to build a guitar that is as historically accurate as possible which is why I ask.
Hi Robert, I've tested various products for pore filling on electric guitar and nowadays, I haven`t found anything that makes the job easy and effective, most time I end up in a real mess, expecially with pastes made out solids that get hard and have to sand too much, appart from this, always tend to tint the wood and is easy to provocate peels. Do you think this product is easy to apply and is the definitive product to achieve a professional finish? Is it compatible with nitro or poliurethane? Thanks in advance from Dominica Republic.
Mariela, Any product will work. You just need to learn how to work with that product and don't give up until you have worked all the bugs out of the system. The same thing can be said for the finishing products. Folks that don't know how to work with a product blame the result on the product rather than the technique. They then move onto the next product and repeat the same undesirable results and this becomes a vicious cycle. Learn to work with the product before moving on to the next best one. They all work. There is no perfect product. When living in Brazil I used to use used coffee grounds or sawdust and shellac as a pore filler. Aquacoat is not a miracle filler. It is easy to apply and dries quickly but will take several coats. Let it cure completely before applying topcoats. It is compatible with lacquer and poliuretano. Do sample boards to work out the kinks before attempting to apply to your project. Good luck and Saludos desde Colorado.
@@OBrienGuitars Muchas gracias, saludos desde España.
Does it fill cracks as well?
I wouldn't say it's appropriate for crack repair. If you are just filling, I recommend GluBoost Fill 'n Finish
www.lmii.com/glue/23264-gluboost-fill-n-finish-pro-formula-2-oz-includes-2-whip-tips-and-2-extender-nozzles.html .
Remember domestic shipping is free! If you are actually repairing, here is a link to a video on back crack repair:
www.lmii.com/blog/2017/10/08/crack-repair/
Natalie
@Luthiers Mercantile International Hi Robert, have ever experienced Aquacoat to turn out red once dried?
This has not been my experience. Did you perhaps sand the surface as you applied the product? Were you using rosewood?
@@OBrienGuitars Not it was on roasted ash. I also tried over roasted maple and went perfect. Look like over roasted ash it mess something. If you have an email I can send you some example pic, I have already informed Aquacoat about that
@@italianguitargarage708 hummmm, I have never heard of this. You can find my email address on my website - www.obrienguitars.com
No sealer before filling?
You could use a searler if you want, but it isn't necessary. The filler acts as a filler and sealer in one and it's clear.
Luthiers Mercantile Instructional Videos
That’s why I was asking about the other product, because as soon as applied it, it just turned black, the same color as my stain. It was a nightmare. The other product claimed
you could color it, or let it dry clear, or mix it with dust to make a slurry.
Thanks
It's hard to believe that in this day and age you would have to fill the grain 3 times.