What gets me is the nurseries might not guve good advice. Mine told me with a large tree that was basically a burlap tree but put in a pot that I should try to water it once a week. It went against everything I learned but I trusted the advice and it immediately damaged all the leaves before I came to my senses and started a long slow recovery.
I like to rescue trees from the roadside ditches. I wait for a rainy day and replant right away. I figure if its out of the ground for less than an hour it wont even know its been moved. I have had good success doing this any time of year. Are you sure I don't need to but a dead animal in the hole first? LOL
Very helpful. I just bought a weeping redbud in a large pot, and it had roots tightly bound and wrapped with several wraps of thick roots. In addition, it was buried six inches above the root flare. This tree would've slowly died or lasted a while and suddenly died.
Thank you so much for being such an excellent source of information. I studied horticulture in university and its so refreshing to hear the information that I have learned is scientifically accepted being taught to the layperson (and always a good reminder to myself!).
The way I look at it is if you can create a good root structure in the pot then do your absolute best to not disturb it when you plant at the correct height, when the roots make it to the natural soil that is just gravy, because the roots in the pot are enoff to keep what you have alive at time of planting. Mulch is 100% the best thing you can do. I also don't really understand or see the point in creating a mulch donut, it just gives the impression people should mulch astablished trees like that and usually leads to volcano mulching.
12:40 you are also removing terminal buds that would provide auxin too initiate or stimulate root growth. If you also planted it in the fall it could reduce cold hardiness and hinder dormancy.
Great advice I made good use of when I planted my trees (read your blog entry on the topic). Thank you for it. When you have a bit of time perhaps you could answer a question concerning staking. One of my lindens is exposed to stronger eastern winds and now, 4 years after planting, it ended up listing at a 75" angle from the ground. The root ball does not wiggle and the tree has developed, growing from a 2m sapling to close to 4m (though its trunk is more fragile than that of the other lindens I planted then as its exposed position causes it to suffer from leaf scorch in the summer heat). I'm now wondering if I should A) simply leave the linden be and hope the tree will thrive even at this angle & the trunk will thicken fast enough to prevent the listing from getting worse or if I should B) stake it loosely to prevent further listing or C) pull it back and fix it at 90" until the trunk thickens appreciably. I'd be grateful for your thoughts. p.s. First attempted to ask this question on your blog, but users now receive a "nonce verification failure" error over there.
What about planting into hardback clay that is great for mud bricks? Have found trees that have died after a couple of years could not penitrate the soil and came out as if they where still in a pot?
What gets me is the nurseries might not guve good advice. Mine told me with a large tree that was basically a burlap tree but put in a pot that I should try to water it once a week. It went against everything I learned but I trusted the advice and it immediately damaged all the leaves before I came to my senses and started a long slow recovery.
I like to rescue trees from the roadside ditches. I wait for a rainy day and replant right away. I figure if its out of the ground for less than an hour it wont even know its been moved. I have had good success doing this any time of year. Are you sure I don't need to but a dead animal in the hole first? LOL
Love it
Nice one
Thanks for your very informative videos. I’m learning a great deal.
Very helpful. I just bought a weeping redbud in a large pot, and it had roots tightly bound and wrapped with several wraps of thick roots. In addition, it was buried six inches above the root flare. This tree would've slowly died or lasted a while and suddenly died.
Thank you so much for being such an excellent source of information. I studied horticulture in university and its so refreshing to hear the information that I have learned is scientifically accepted being taught to the layperson (and always a good reminder to myself!).
The way I look at it is if you can create a good root structure in the pot then do your absolute best to not disturb it when you plant at the correct height, when the roots make it to the natural soil that is just gravy, because the roots in the pot are enoff to keep what you have alive at time of planting. Mulch is 100% the best thing you can do. I also don't really understand or see the point in creating a mulch donut, it just gives the impression people should mulch astablished trees like that and usually leads to volcano mulching.
12:40 you are also removing terminal buds that would provide auxin too initiate or stimulate root growth. If you also planted it in the fall it could reduce cold hardiness and hinder dormancy.
planting time won't affect cold hardiness - that is controlled by genetics.
@Garden Fundamentals sorry was referring to pruning the tree in fall after you planted it in the fall.
Great advice I made good use of when I planted my trees (read your blog entry on the topic). Thank you for it.
When you have a bit of time perhaps you could answer a question concerning staking. One of my lindens is exposed to stronger eastern winds and now, 4 years after planting, it ended up listing at a 75" angle from the ground. The root ball does not wiggle and the tree has developed, growing from a 2m sapling to close to 4m (though its trunk is more fragile than that of the other lindens I planted then as its exposed position causes it to suffer from leaf scorch in the summer heat). I'm now wondering if I should A) simply leave the linden be and hope the tree will thrive even at this angle & the trunk will thicken fast enough to prevent the listing from getting worse or if I should B) stake it loosely to prevent further listing or C) pull it back and fix it at 90" until the trunk thickens appreciably. I'd be grateful for your thoughts.
p.s. First attempted to ask this question on your blog, but users now receive a "nonce verification failure" error over there.
Best informative videos on youtube.
Grazie melle.
Fantastic video and fantastic channel!
If pruning is not advised just after plantation then what is your advise about training, When we should start training the tree after plantation.
What happens when you plant the root flare a bit too deep, say 2 or 3 inches below ground level. Will tree die?
What about planting into hardback clay that is great for mud bricks?
Have found trees that have died after a couple of years could not penitrate the soil and came out as if they where still in a pot?
👍👍👍Thank you
I can hear Dr Alex Shigo yelling "trunk flair" it has trunk bark. 😂