Okay, for anyone else out there that is attempting to do this with an IBT_2 motor driver, you don't need to change the program. All you need are a few additional steps in the wiring. Digital pins 5&6 need to go LPWM and RPWM respectively, switching the order of these will simply invert the direction of the servo. Both the L_EN and R_EN pins need to pulled to a HIGH state and should be attached to +5V DC. Both the L_IS and R_IS pins need to pulled to a LOW state and should be attached to ground. VCC should also be attached to +5V and GND simply goes to ground. Thank you James for the code and explanation, my dreams of a robotic riding lawnmower are finally coming true.
For driving a motor w/out concern for position, you can just make a resistor bridge 10k resistor from power to the analog input pin, and another 10k resistor from ground to the same analog pin. Since the resistance is always in balance, you only get movement from an input and you can adjust the code to give you nice little dead band for neutral. Seriously James, this may be the most universally useful code I've ever used. I've helped so many people and done several RC projects myself and your code is the heart/soul of every project I'm involved with.
I was literally thinking about using a wiper motor yesterday because I need a powerful servo for a project. Didn't know where to begin. I look on your channel today and see literally the exact video that I needed uploaded at the same time I needed it. Awesome coincidence
make sure to use unsigned for all your timing variables so that when millis/micros rolls over, the math still works correctly. And yes, (current - last >= interval) is safe and correct to use with unsigned variables and will correctly handle rollover of timing functions.
Gotta say I am and old maker and really enjoy your channel your ability to take something so complex like this is and give a simple to follow path is really a gift On high speed PLC work we use hardware based inputs that do not depend on scan time to process the task
James Bruton We our very restricted in what we can use as everything we we build can mangle the operator if it malfunctions and have to use dedicated safety relays and go through a pretty intense safety review
Great video. Just one thing to mention, usually wiper motor have "3 wires", 2 normal (+) and GND in metal housing, so you should use case and one of wire, changing wire you can change speed of rotation but for long use better is to use slower one.
And of course if you change your pulley ratio you could make it go a lot more than 10 turns. Also put some sanity check code on the pot analogue value so the motor can't go any further than the endstops and break it.
5:00 An even better way to read the pulse in is to use the TC1 input capture unit to measure the pulse length in hardware, so if you have e.g. some serial code that blocks interrupts for a few microseconds and the interrupt is called late, you still have the exact time from the input edge recorded in hardware.
I know im randomly asking but does any of you know of a tool to get back into an instagram account? I was stupid lost my password. I would appreciate any help you can give me!
@Zaiden Ignacio i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and Im trying it out now. Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
The pulseIn is only giving you +/- 1us jitter verses 4us in the "improved" code. The pulseIn has an optional 3rd value of timeout. It defaults to 1 second (hence the one second +/- 5us steps in your jitter graph) and should be set closer to the 20ms timing of the RC PWM signals. Try pwm = pulseIn(8, HIGH, 30000); Timeout is in microseconds.
Well done! I did this 3 years ago for a Maker Faire project( RC PRS ) but didn't include PID so I will try your code. Thanks. BTW, I used an Arduino Pro Mini and an L298 with my pot connected to the shaft via laser cut gearing. I like the belt/wire setup but will be mod'ing to use contactless magnetic encoder and will probably shift to a Teensy.
I really wish you would use #define to define some constant values... You could give each pin an actual, meaningful name and then if you need to change what pin it's attached to you can just change the one #define. You really should have one for the 255 values too as they are all related. It's a simple thing that makes your code more readable and maintainable.
The underlying arduino compiler definitely supports them, but I will admit the IDE does a poor job of pointing such things out. It wasn't until I switched to using the VisualMicro plugin for VisualStudio that I realised the arduino compiler supports a large amount of C++, including templates.
Angry Rambo Show they aren't really complex to understand though and would actually help beginners to better understand what the code is doing as you are replacing random pin numbers and constants with a meaningful English representation. digitalRead(POTENTIOMETER); is much easier to understand than digitalRead(1) for example.
James Coyle True, but at the same time you're adding a layer of indirection between the code and the hardware, and now you have to look in two places to determine what pin is connected to which code. Makes for more readable code, sure, but actually obfuscates the hardware/software interface. Say you plug the potentiometer into a different pin (accidentally, or on purpose). Now you'll have code that states it interacts with the potentiometer, but actually doesn't. (not even the worst case scenario). If your project is pure code, yes. Absolutely. But you are manipulating hardware and software in parallel and could change either arbitrarily and now you have a label in the middle that may or may not be meaningful, depending on the hardware design.
KuraIthys You only have to look at where your defines are (the top of the code) and change one value rather than having to update several uses of that pin that could be anywhere in your code. Your points don't make sense. You are defining in one place that pin 1 is the potentiometer so then you attach the pot to pin 1 on the Arduino. If you attach it to a different pin you then update your define statement to point to that new pin and all references to that pin in your program are updated to reflect that you changed which pin you're connecting it to.
Thanks James you got a like and subscribe from me!!! Building an autonomous lawn mower with a window motor for steering and want it to reset to neutral when I let off the input. This is exactly what I was looking for!!! Thanks
PID Tuning is something we have to dael with verry often in the fpv drone hobby. Sometimes weather force you to lower P because of the change of air density
this video is the missing information i was needing to continue on a project!!! but instead of mapping a remote control, I want to call 8 different position while adding effect like adding turn to reach a position !
Sniper Sharp107 money is made from plant, and that grows on its own. So does the narcissism as some people keep believing that the banker who put the narcissistic statement on the those always only paper god$ that people dedicate entire lives chasing after. Some are willing to put carbon atoms into the atmosphere in the process of doing so. And sadly roughly 12 million people per year die from pollution. What else is sad, is while clobbering the planets ecosystem, they like to pretend that those 12 million went on to experience an afterlife. Creepy isn't it? #inSCIENCEwetrust
Always enjoy and like you vids. If you watch any vid it's the least you can do for all the time N effort the creator puts in. It's just a bonus I enjoy yours lol. TkEZ»UK
James, this is very usefull drive system for your dog robot, it is strong, fast and compact, even you can find a smaller wiper motors with the same torque. Think about it.
Awesome Video James! Thanks for posting. I have have several WW motors from old projects, i guess i need to order some controllers and start making some new projects!
Interesting project. I am looking to do something similar and need two turns at the output so need to use a multiturn pot or use pulleys with a ratio and standard pot. Would like to see more info on the pulley arrangement to help me build something similar. Have searched a bit and haven't found much on similar pulley system. Maybe not using the right search terms...
Brilliant! Cheers for posting that information and code, I’ve been trying to do this for a while now after seeing HomoFacien’s video on the same subject, but for me your video is much clearer and easier to follow. I suspect I shall change it to use L298 motor driver ic, so I’ll need to set direction and send PWM to the enable instead of picking which pin to send the signal to, but that shouldn’t be too hard.
One could also take the circuit out of a normal rc servo, wire that into the wiper motor with a new pot, and that would prevent needing an Arduino or doing any coding. Of course you would still need the motor driver to handle the current. Just a thought.
True. Good point. I am curious though to try it and see how well, or how bad, it works. So, I just ordered the motor driver on eBay (I have a few normal servos and a wiper motor already), so I’ll try it and see. When I do, I’ll post a video on my channel and show the result. It may be a few weeks cause the driver is coming from China. I’ll let you know when I post the video.
So I just posted a video showing what happens when you use the circuit from a normal servo to convert a wiper motor. Check it out and see what you think. It works, but.......
At 13:12 if the output1 is 0 you will no write the value to pmw. OK that will no be problematic for the PID control, but still it should be correct on the code, by writing just "else" instead of "else if(output1
Hey James, great to see you are also building big servos. I don't have RC controllers so I've gone digital with I2C to control the position and provide information back to the host
James great video but can i make a suggestion to improve things and that would be physically attach the pot to motor output shaft because if you lose the pulley/ belt when using pid to control the position, the motor could run away if it loses the feedback. Just a suggestion again great video
Hi, i have a similar design, but it doesn't go to exact center after left or right when i release the stick. Right and left have their different home position, do you know why would it be? There is no mechanical backlash.
can someone tell me can i use digital read instead of analog read from the potentiometer because i want to opearate the motor using digital signals coming from second arduino
Thnk you verry much that you have made this video, it will help me a lot in the future. Could you do a follow up in the future where you show how to build a endless (360°) Servo that you could use for a homebulid cnc?
Have you ever made (or considered making) a near to complete beginner's intro to robot building? Even if you didn't go into the actual "making" of the robot, just discussing the terms and basic features? I'm rather new myself, I only just got interested a few years ago and being still fairly young (high school) would really appreciate it. Thank you for any possible consideration!
Really nice video! You could do more video's like these, arduino explaining video's. You could even grab your exisiting projects and show how they work. Like the arm of Ultron :)
I liked it to see the code with your explanation! Can you do a video where you make a frequency control with arduino? With a recrifier and capacitor and an arduino PWM output wich approaches a sine wave?
How many PWM signals can I read with this code from the R / C console And just which arduino pinout can I use? Thanks to this code, I finally got to R / C to change the speed and direction of the stepper motor!
Hi James thank you for your video. I try to wire circuit as you but control by adruino. I use Adruino it self to power both driver and servo and the motor doesnt work. Is it because the voltage isnt enough
Doesn’t the “I” value correct the error when under load? “I” or integral increases with time gradually with steady state error until saturation or reaching the target set point. “D” is the derivative which is effectively the rate it approaches the set point, can be used to ensure its not heading towards the set point too quickly.
Hello, i follow your video step by step . Motor is turning right and left with the movment of the controler but the zero point is not the same every time . when there is no movment from the controler the pot is stoping a little bit left or right than the zero point. any help? thanks
Hey James, quick question. I’m building a remote system for a snowblower as I live in Canada and we get a lot of snow and it sucks having to go out and get cold and wet to clear the lane way.. I’ve done my r&d and my brains been put on paper and refined , I’ve got all the parts I need and I’m ready to build. But I have not ordered any circuit boards yet. (Plan on using an Arduino Uno ((possibly mega for seemless Add ons in the future)) and I’ve been researching the Adafruit 16 channel servo driver) So.. the build will have 7 “servos” but 5 of them I am building out of 3 window motors from a car and 2 wiper motors(for the higher output potential for steering. Need to fight the resistance of snow and the weight of the whole machine) the other 2 of 7 servos will simply be 20kg Rd car servos. So my question is, what would I need to drive the 5 wiper motor servos similar to the one you’ve built in this video? I see your driving one from the motor driver to the pwm pins on your Arduino. Would I need to have 5 of those drivers ? If so. Then would I need make sure I have another analog pins to receiver the signal from each of the 5 pots off each of the 5 wiper motors? Is this possible with the Arduino Mega platform?
Yes you'll need 5 motor drivers with 10 pwms on the Arduino. If you use the servo library on the MEGA then pins 9 and 10 don't work as PWMs anymore so you might struggle to drive 5 motors.
u may know...i have a full metal 47cc rc 1/4 scale, custom made, it has an h-bridge/servo/wiper motor setup its all insulated from frame, h-bridge runs 12v steering works perfectly with engine off, when i try start it sometimes it instantly steers 1 way and volts drop and it kills signal between rx/tx till i switch rx off n bk on...is this cos i never used ur method?? or is it gas engine related (engine is hard mounted to frame) i do have an arduino here
I'd like to see this done without an Arduino. It should be possible using a servo to drive a potentiometer to drive a circuit that adjusts the position of the wiper motor arm.
Cool project! I’m trying to do a similar one with the same parts you have used except I want to control it with a servo tester instead of an RC controller. I tried hooking it up the same way and used the code you had on GitHub. It just spins. Could you help me figure out what I’m missing? Thanks!
Would (given tire size) work on any car, or does it have to be a certain kind? :) Had to say it, all in good fun. I'd love to try some 50" tires on my Honda sedan though! haha
Okay, for anyone else out there that is attempting to do this with an IBT_2 motor driver, you don't need to change the program. All you need are a few additional steps in the wiring.
Digital pins 5&6 need to go LPWM and RPWM respectively, switching the order of these will simply invert the direction of the servo.
Both the L_EN and R_EN pins need to pulled to a HIGH state and should be attached to +5V DC.
Both the L_IS and R_IS pins need to pulled to a LOW state and should be attached to ground.
VCC should also be attached to +5V and GND simply goes to ground.
Thank you James for the code and explanation, my dreams of a robotic riding lawnmower are finally coming true.
This is the best type of videos you should consider making more of thia type of videos in the future ..
For driving a motor w/out concern for position, you can just make a resistor bridge 10k resistor from power to the analog input pin, and another 10k resistor from ground to the same analog pin. Since the resistance is always in balance, you only get movement from an input and you can adjust the code to give you nice little dead band for neutral. Seriously James, this may be the most universally useful code I've ever used. I've helped so many people and done several RC projects myself and your code is the heart/soul of every project I'm involved with.
I was literally thinking about using a wiper motor yesterday because I need a powerful servo for a project. Didn't know where to begin. I look on your channel today and see literally the exact video that I needed uploaded at the same time I needed it. Awesome coincidence
im glad to see ya putting ya code and cad up for most thigns now
make sure to use unsigned for all your timing variables so that when millis/micros rolls over, the math still works correctly. And yes, (current - last >= interval) is safe and correct to use with unsigned variables and will correctly handle rollover of timing functions.
Thanks for the basic description of PID. Will peek your files. I am day dreaming of a few uses for this already.
Gotta say I am and old maker and really enjoy your channel your ability to take something so complex like this is and give a simple to follow path is really a gift
On high speed PLC work we use hardware based inputs that do not depend on scan time to process the task
thanks I did a bit of PLC in college, but that was in the 90s!
James Bruton
We our very restricted in what we can use as everything we we build can mangle the operator if it malfunctions and have to use dedicated safety relays and go through a pretty intense safety review
cal29seafever.blogspot.com/
Enjoy my most epic 20 month build
Great video. Just one thing to mention, usually wiper motor have "3 wires", 2 normal (+) and GND in metal housing, so you should use case and one of wire, changing wire you can change speed of rotation but for long use better is to use slower one.
These are the kind of videos you should make
need a subchannel !
yeah but isis used these videos to make remote controlled suicide car bomb 😂
And of course if you change your pulley ratio you could make it go a lot more than 10 turns. Also put some sanity check code on the pot analogue value so the motor can't go any further than the endstops and break it.
Thanks for posting the files and explaining all of that!👍🏻
Thanks a lot for this video James, it really helped me in making my own brushless servo
What did you use as a motor driver ?
That's cool
And you can simply change the servo's range by changing the pully sizes
yep
5:00 An even better way to read the pulse in is to use the TC1 input capture unit to measure the pulse length in hardware, so if you have e.g. some serial code that blocks interrupts for a few microseconds and the interrupt is called late, you still have the exact time from the input edge recorded in hardware.
I know im randomly asking but does any of you know of a tool to get back into an instagram account?
I was stupid lost my password. I would appreciate any help you can give me!
@Malik Mark Instablaster :)
@Zaiden Ignacio i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and Im trying it out now.
Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Zaiden Ignacio it did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thanks so much, you really help me out !
@Malik Mark You are welcome :D
The pulseIn is only giving you +/- 1us jitter verses 4us in the "improved" code. The pulseIn has an optional 3rd value of timeout. It defaults to 1 second (hence the one second +/- 5us steps in your jitter graph) and should be set closer to the 20ms timing of the RC PWM signals. Try pwm = pulseIn(8, HIGH, 30000); Timeout is in microseconds.
So useful, these motors are everywhere
Well done! I did this 3 years ago for a Maker Faire project( RC PRS ) but didn't include PID so I will try your code. Thanks. BTW, I used an Arduino Pro Mini and an L298 with my pot connected to the shaft via laser cut gearing. I like the belt/wire setup but will be mod'ing to use contactless magnetic encoder and will probably shift to a Teensy.
Perhaps, Same style video, only difference , use those cheap 433MHz transmit and receive rf modules sold on ebay. i'm sure many would appreciate that.
I really wish you would use #define to define some constant values... You could give each pin an actual, meaningful name and then if you need to change what pin it's attached to you can just change the one #define. You really should have one for the 255 values too as they are all related. It's a simple thing that makes your code more readable and maintainable.
Either that or static const‘s, which effectively do the same thing but preserve type information.
The underlying arduino compiler definitely supports them, but I will admit the IDE does a poor job of pointing such things out. It wasn't until I switched to using the VisualMicro plugin for VisualStudio that I realised the arduino compiler supports a large amount of C++, including templates.
Angry Rambo Show they aren't really complex to understand though and would actually help beginners to better understand what the code is doing as you are replacing random pin numbers and constants with a meaningful English representation.
digitalRead(POTENTIOMETER); is much easier to understand than digitalRead(1) for example.
James Coyle True, but at the same time you're adding a layer of indirection between the code and the hardware, and now you have to look in two places to determine what pin is connected to which code.
Makes for more readable code, sure, but actually obfuscates the hardware/software interface.
Say you plug the potentiometer into a different pin (accidentally, or on purpose). Now you'll have code that states it interacts with the potentiometer, but actually doesn't.
(not even the worst case scenario).
If your project is pure code, yes. Absolutely.
But you are manipulating hardware and software in parallel and could change either arbitrarily and now you have a label in the middle that may or may not be meaningful, depending on the hardware design.
KuraIthys You only have to look at where your defines are (the top of the code) and change one value rather than having to update several uses of that pin that could be anywhere in your code. Your points don't make sense.
You are defining in one place that pin 1 is the potentiometer so then you attach the pot to pin 1 on the Arduino. If you attach it to a different pin you then update your define statement to point to that new pin and all references to that pin in your program are updated to reflect that you changed which pin you're connecting it to.
You have build the transformers ,,,,great job James !!!
Thanks James you got a like and subscribe from me!!! Building an autonomous lawn mower with a window motor for steering and want it to reset to neutral when I let off the input. This is exactly what I was looking for!!! Thanks
PID Tuning is something we have to dael with verry often in the fpv drone hobby. Sometimes weather force you to lower P because of the change of air density
this video is the missing information i was needing to continue on a project!!! but instead of mapping a remote control, I want to call 8 different position while adding effect like adding turn to reach a position !
1:38am here but ain't no rest for the wicked
Cmon you got work tommorow? Money dont grow on trees
Sniper Sharp107 money is made from plant, and that grows on its own.
So does the narcissism as some people keep believing that the banker who put the narcissistic statement on the those always only paper god$ that people dedicate entire lives chasing after. Some are willing to put carbon atoms into the atmosphere in the process of doing so. And sadly roughly 12 million people per year die from pollution.
What else is sad, is while clobbering the planets ecosystem, they like to pretend that those 12 million went on to experience an afterlife. Creepy isn't it?
#inSCIENCEwetrust
True Tech boi it's 4:05am here I don't got the brain power to comprehend what your saying I'm gonna go eat some cereal
supercomputer2004 some food for though then, perhaps after you wake up. You enjoy your Rice Crispies.
Always enjoy and like you vids. If you watch any vid it's the least you can do for all the time N effort the creator puts in. It's just a bonus I enjoy yours lol. TkEZ»UK
Mario Kart Home Circuit! You legend! ;)
Hello, help me set up the program, since in the absence of a signal at the servo input, the motor rotates
love this! Hope you create more vids like this.
Great now to watch it again and then read the code again.
thanks, I will be when I know what I'm talking about ;-)
This was phenomenal James. Very informative!!
nice job, i'm happy that some one still use rc remotes :o)
James, this is very usefull drive system for your dog robot, it is strong, fast and compact, even you can find a smaller wiper motors with the same torque.
Think about it.
Awesome Video James! Thanks for posting. I have have several WW motors from old projects, i guess i need to order some controllers and start making some new projects!
Interesting project. I am looking to do something similar and need two turns at the output so need to use a multiturn pot or use pulleys with a ratio and standard pot. Would like to see more info on the pulley arrangement to help me build something similar. Have searched a bit and haven't found much on similar pulley system. Maybe not using the right search terms...
I love this kind of video ! I learn so much thanks !
Brilliant! Cheers for posting that information and code, I’ve been trying to do this for a while now after seeing HomoFacien’s video on the same subject, but for me your video is much clearer and easier to follow. I suspect I shall change it to use L298 motor driver ic, so I’ll need to set direction and send PWM to the enable instead of picking which pin to send the signal to, but that shouldn’t be too hard.
Good idea James, thanks 👍
If not done. That's pretty funny. Thanks for sharing this with us. :)
very good ider , you can use this power full servo bulid any robot or mecah , this amazing
loved this vid, it expanded my knowledge
One could also take the circuit out of a normal rc servo, wire that into the wiper motor with a new pot, and that would prevent needing an Arduino or doing any coding. Of course you would still need the motor driver to handle the current. Just a thought.
...and you wouldn't be able to tune the PID for he bigger motor and bigger load.
True. Good point. I am curious though to try it and see how well, or how bad, it works. So, I just ordered the motor driver on eBay (I have a few normal servos and a wiper motor already), so I’ll try it and see. When I do, I’ll post a video on my channel and show the result. It may be a few weeks cause the driver is coming from China. I’ll let you know when I post the video.
So I just posted a video showing what happens when you use the circuit from a normal servo to convert a wiper motor. Check it out and see what you think. It works, but.......
i need 2 do this with learning as little code as possible lol love it
What would you do with a giant servo!?
a ventilator to counter the heat wave
Hit people with it
James Bruton why does it say your comment is from 4 days ago
supercomputer2004 he first uploads the videos to patreon so he probably commented when he put it up there
Magnus Kree ohh
Ok god I love you james
My brain is aching after that
you might need a giant servo in your brain to turn all the gears and cogs to help presses :P JK
You could also change the gear ratio between the motor and the potentiometer to get more than 180°, or less than 180° but with better precision 😊
At 13:12 if the output1 is 0 you will no write the value to pmw. OK that will no be problematic for the PID control, but still it should be correct on the code, by writing just "else" instead of "else if(output1
Very helpful. Thankyou.
Awesome video. There's going to be a run on wiper motors at the auto boneyards........
Great video! This would work great for a linear actuator that has a pot like the ones on servo city.
awesome thank you! i'm trying to build a big servo to turn the steering of a go kart. would a big brushed motor do?
Hey James, great to see you are also building big servos. I don't have RC controllers so I've gone digital with I2C to control the position and provide information back to the host
James great video but can i make a suggestion to improve things and that would be physically attach the pot to motor output shaft because if you lose the pulley/ belt when using pid to control the position, the motor could run away if it loses the feedback. Just a suggestion again great video
yes you could do that
It is so refreshing to here an English speaker that does not use Americas favorite words: Umm, Uuugh, doh
Hi, i have a similar design, but it doesn't go to exact center after left or right when i release the stick. Right and left have their different home position, do you know why would it be? There is no mechanical backlash.
can someone tell me can i use digital read instead of analog read from the potentiometer because i want to opearate the motor using digital signals coming from second arduino
This is what exactly I was looking for to build a 2 DOF platform for my grand kids.
code doesn't seem to account for millis roll over... sure it takes 49 days to rollover, but would be disastrous if it happened
So every seven weeks the servo will flip out for 20ms? I think I can live with that
would probably be destructive to whatever its in
Hi sir, how much value of pot do u used sir?? 5k or 10k sir??
Thnk you verry much that you have made this video, it will help me a lot in the future. Could you do a follow up in the future where you show how to build a endless (360°) Servo that you could use for a homebulid cnc?
well with an encoder and an end switch - check out my openDog series
James Bruton Thanks
Have you ever made (or considered making) a near to complete beginner's intro to robot building? Even if you didn't go into the actual "making" of the robot, just discussing the terms and basic features? I'm rather new myself, I only just got interested a few years ago and being still fairly young (high school) would really appreciate it. Thank you for any possible consideration!
Really nice video! You could do more video's like these, arduino explaining video's. You could even grab your exisiting projects and show how they work. Like the arm of Ultron :)
thanks, I'm intending to
I liked it to see the code with your explanation!
Can you do a video where you make a frequency control with arduino? With a recrifier and capacitor and an arduino PWM output wich approaches a sine wave?
How many PWM signals can I read with this code from the R / C console And just which arduino pinout can I use? Thanks to this code, I finally got to R / C to change the speed and direction of the stepper motor!
What a great tuto!
would you get better control using a rotary encoder in place of a pot on the motor?
PID is everywhere!
Hi James thank you for your video. I try to wire circuit as you but control by adruino. I use Adruino it self to power both driver and servo and the motor doesnt work. Is it because the voltage isnt enough
Great stuff, love it!
Doesn’t the “I” value correct the error when under load? “I” or integral increases with time gradually with steady state error until saturation or reaching the target set point. “D” is the derivative which is effectively the rate it approaches the set point, can be used to ensure its not heading towards the set point too quickly.
Using this library is it possible to have the Pk, IK, and Dk connected to pots for out of program tuning?
hi James, I'm using the code linked but the first "include" line fails. Only very new to the Arduino. Is there an updated link please? thanks
"First of all, what am I talking about!?"
My life in a nutshell
Commenting for RUclips algorithm
This is great, if only i could understand it.
Does anyone knows if there is a way to reduce the motor whining noise? Any suggestions would be awesome! Thanks for the great video btw.
how do you adjust it to where you want can you get it to do a startup check for center maybe adding end switches
Nice, any thoughts on designing a direct pot feedback as I imagine the pulley setup could slip and fall or at least lose assignment?
Hello, i follow your video step by step . Motor is turning right and left with the movment of the controler but the zero point is not the same every time . when there is no movment from the controler the pot is stoping a little bit left or right than the zero point. any help? thanks
Hey James, quick question.
I’m building a remote system for a snowblower as I live in Canada and we get a lot of snow and it sucks having to go out and get cold and wet to clear the lane way.. I’ve done my r&d and my brains been put on paper and refined , I’ve got all the parts I need and I’m ready to build. But I have not ordered any circuit boards yet. (Plan on using an Arduino Uno ((possibly mega for seemless Add ons in the future)) and I’ve been researching the Adafruit 16 channel servo driver)
So.. the build will have 7 “servos” but 5 of them I am building out of 3 window motors from a car and 2 wiper motors(for the higher output potential for steering. Need to fight the resistance of snow and the weight of the whole machine) the other 2 of 7 servos will simply be 20kg Rd car servos.
So my question is, what would I need to drive the 5 wiper motor servos similar to the one you’ve built in this video? I see your driving one from the motor driver to the pwm pins on your Arduino. Would I need to have 5 of those drivers ? If so. Then would I need make sure I have another analog pins to receiver the signal from each of the 5 pots off each of the 5 wiper motors? Is this possible with the Arduino Mega platform?
Yes you'll need 5 motor drivers with 10 pwms on the Arduino. If you use the servo library on the MEGA then pins 9 and 10 don't work as PWMs anymore so you might struggle to drive 5 motors.
Can you please make a video on how to do the same thing but using a brushless motor and ESC speed controller instead of H Bridge?
Probably not much different, but just using a different ESC?
That was awesome!
my servo can't find the center point it just bounces back and forth at the center point. any help?
Excellent. Thanks
Hi James the wiper motor i am using for to-fro rotation is moving in small amounts in a direction ...why so?
very useful and inspiring
u may know...i have a full metal 47cc rc 1/4 scale, custom made, it has an h-bridge/servo/wiper motor setup its all insulated from frame, h-bridge runs 12v steering works perfectly with engine off, when i try start it sometimes it instantly steers 1 way and volts drop and it kills signal between rx/tx till i switch rx off n bk on...is this cos i never used ur method?? or is it gas engine related (engine is hard mounted to frame) i do have an arduino here
nice tutorial but can u share the wiring diagram for ibt2 dual h bridge
I'd like to see this done without an Arduino. It should be possible using a servo to drive a potentiometer to drive a circuit that adjusts the position of the wiper motor arm.
Yes you could do it with analog electronics I suppose...
how much torque do these motors provide? Any way to do this and get like 50 ft lb. torque but moves fast like this?
Thank you! It worked perfect for me!!!
Cool project! I’m trying to do a similar one with the same parts you have used except I want to control it with a servo tester instead of an RC controller. I tried hooking it up the same way and used the code you had on GitHub. It just spins. Could you help me figure out what I’m missing? Thanks!
Nice one Jim.
Hi James could you use the new pi pico to do the same with coding ?
Very interesting I enjoyed that
please provide a code for controlling the speed of servo sweep as i increase the throttle stick.
Would this setup work with a brushless motor and ESC? :)
exciting project. i might need for my rc excavator👍
There are blog diagram picture ?
would the 3d printed parts work on all windshield wiper motors, or does it have to be a certain kind?
Would (given tire size) work on any car, or does it have to be a certain kind? :)
Had to say it, all in good fun. I'd love to try some 50" tires on my Honda sedan though! haha