After reading the other reviews, I thought I will give it a try and in the end De*nitrate really works, my 4L De*nitrate brings down my 60 gal overstocked freshwater tank from 80ppm nitrate to a constant 10ppm, however it takes a lot more effort, brain and money on top of the product itself to create an ideal environment for it. And I think it's worth it. First you need a few things: 1. A media reactor cylindrical and clear 2. Liquid flow meter 3. Flow control valve 4. A pre-filter 5. An after-filter 6. A submersible aquarium pump 7. PVC ball valves 8. Stainless/plastic hose clamps and strong cable ties 9. Clear aquarium vinyl tubing 10. 50 micron filter pads Then you connect the submersible pump to a shut-off valve, through a pre-filter, then through media reactor, out through the liquid flow meter, through the flow control valve, then finally an after-filter which is a 50 micron polishing pad tied to the end of the tube submerged in the aquarium. You want the flow rate to be at around 35gph consistently. To do that, you will have to adjust the flow control valve once in a while as the pre-filter catches more and more debris while it slows down the flow little by little. A few things need to be taken into consideration: 1. You need a pump that has a flow rate of at least three times of 35gph just to handle the media reactor and pre-filter, then add roughly additional 100gph for 50 micron polishing pad because it slows down the flow significantly. Finally another 50gph as the flow rate gets slowed down little by little in the long run while it catches more and more debris. 2. You need to use your liquid flow meter in combination with PVC ball valve to accurately control your flow rate. De*nitrate takes about 2 weeks for me to work. 3. Do not cheap out on a pre-filter, make it big, in diameter, not in length. The bigger diameter it has, the longer it takes to slow down the flow significantly hence the longer time periods it provides until maintenance. 4. Put a 50 micron filtering pad inside your pre-filter. This will provide longer working time for your media reactor before it gets clogged up by debris which then it would require a complete rinsing of the media itself. 5. It can be pain in the ass when it comes to the tubing size. The best case scenario would be one size fits all when your pump, your pre-filter, your media reactor, your flow meter all require the same tube size, if not, then you would need multi-hose adapter which adds to the work and cost. 6. Always use clamps in every joint to prevent potential leak. Use plastic cable ties or hose clamps instead of metal clamps for underwater applications. 7. Add PVC ball valve at the ins and outs of your pre-filter and media reactor for easy maintenance. 8. At the beginning and after every time you rinse your media, add tiny bit of sugar at the bottom and middle of your reactor as the anaerobic bacteria need a carbon source to thrive. 9. Last but not least, your will need an alkaline buffer, aquarium minerals and occasionally some carbon filter because once water change becomes less and less often, maintaining a healthy PH, vital minerals level and water purity becomes more and more important.
Will be interesting to hear your results with the DeNitrate. Eheim substrat pro & Biohome do the same- I've used both with excellent results. I will say I only got nitrate reduction with them when I followed pondgurus guidelines for achieving a full cycle with media: Average community tropical aquarium = 1kg per 100 litres Average coldwater aquarium = 1kg - 1.5kg per 100 litres Predator aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres Large cichlid aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres Malawi / Tanganyikan aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres Marine aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres Average mixed fish pond = 1kg per 200 litres Average koi pond = 1kg per 150 litres All my tanks read as zero nitrates & have done for years now (have tested with both strips & liquid kits & always get '0' or the lowest value on the test as the result). I had to start doing water changes based on TDS as if I based it on nitrate levels I'd never do water changes, ever lol. I had a moderately stocked community tank that was still testing as 0 nitrates after 6 months of no water changes, however when I got my first TDS pen, it read out as almost 500 ppm TDS, which was nearly 5 times the amount of the tanks that had been getting small fortnightly or monthly changes. Must admit I enjoy how much this hobby provides fascinating learning experiences for us.
I have goldfish ponds and use the baked clay bcb baskets and have not yet had the results I was hoping for , would a basket of this be helpful ? 6 large goldfish in 1200litres. How much do you think to be effective? I have 4 bcbs at this stage and need another 2 , so I was thinking if useing another 2 baskets of this stuff? And for the price it will cost me I just wanted to see what you think ? Would baskets be effective enough or does it need to go through my bog maybe? .
Call info it’s also been over 40 years for us well me and then Jack inherited it ha ha ha never used any type of anything like this and I honestly never had a problem with nitrates…. looking forward to the update I may keep it in mind if it becomes a problem down the road
I just started using Seachem Matrix one month ago. Does anyone know when can I expect these anaerobic bacteria to appear? My NO3 is stable at 40mg at the moment.
I’d be interested to see the follow up results looks exactly like matrix, I wonder how it differs. On a side note Colin what is your substrate is it seachem fluorite black? I’m thinking of changing over my substrate currently pool filter sand.
When's the last time there were more emperors than endlers? I don't have a problem with nitrates. I'm more challenged right now that one of the tetras I brought to my jungle tank had camallanus and now several others have them, too. Hopefully, I don't get a wipeout of my entire stock.
See my Tropical Aquarium playlist here ruclips.net/video/AF6Sai49izE/видео.html
After reading the other reviews, I thought I will give it a try and in the end De*nitrate really works, my 4L De*nitrate brings down my 60 gal overstocked freshwater tank from 80ppm nitrate to a constant 10ppm, however it takes a lot more effort, brain and money on top of the product itself to create an ideal environment for it. And I think it's worth it.
First you need a few things:
1. A media reactor cylindrical and clear
2. Liquid flow meter
3. Flow control valve
4. A pre-filter
5. An after-filter
6. A submersible aquarium pump
7. PVC ball valves
8. Stainless/plastic hose clamps and strong cable ties
9. Clear aquarium vinyl tubing
10. 50 micron filter pads
Then you connect the submersible pump to a shut-off valve, through a pre-filter, then through media reactor, out through the liquid flow meter, through the flow control valve, then finally an after-filter which is a 50 micron polishing pad tied to the end of the tube submerged in the aquarium. You want the flow rate to be at around 35gph consistently. To do that, you will have to adjust the flow control valve once in a while as the pre-filter catches more and more debris while it slows down the flow little by little.
A few things need to be taken into consideration:
1. You need a pump that has a flow rate of at least three times of 35gph just to handle the media reactor and pre-filter, then add roughly additional 100gph for 50 micron polishing pad because it slows down the flow significantly. Finally another 50gph as the flow rate gets slowed down little by little in the long run while it catches more and more debris.
2. You need to use your liquid flow meter in combination with PVC ball valve to accurately control your flow rate. De*nitrate takes about 2 weeks for me to work.
3. Do not cheap out on a pre-filter, make it big, in diameter, not in length. The bigger diameter it has, the longer it takes to slow down the flow significantly hence the longer time periods it provides until maintenance.
4. Put a 50 micron filtering pad inside your pre-filter. This will provide longer working time for your media reactor before it gets clogged up by debris which then it would require a complete rinsing of the media itself.
5. It can be pain in the ass when it comes to the tubing size. The best case scenario would be one size fits all when your pump, your pre-filter, your media reactor, your flow meter all require the same tube size, if not, then you would need multi-hose adapter which adds to the work and cost.
6. Always use clamps in every joint to prevent potential leak. Use plastic cable ties or hose clamps instead of metal clamps for underwater applications.
7. Add PVC ball valve at the ins and outs of your pre-filter and media reactor for easy maintenance.
8. At the beginning and after every time you rinse your media, add tiny bit of sugar at the bottom and middle of your reactor as the anaerobic bacteria need a carbon source to thrive.
9. Last but not least, your will need an alkaline buffer, aquarium minerals and occasionally some carbon filter because once water change becomes less and less often, maintaining a healthy PH, vital minerals level and water purity becomes more and more important.
Came here from GV who said "G'day!" I am hoping you have a hang on back filter. My nitrates out of the tap are 20-40 ppm!
the good news is that most countries in Europe are the same with nitrates out of the tap, and they do OK keeping fish :)
Thanks for the video 👀👋🏽✌🏽👍🏽
thanks for watching :)
Great info
Thanks for watching 🙂👍🏻
Will be interesting to hear your results with the DeNitrate.
Eheim substrat pro & Biohome do the same- I've used both with excellent results. I will say I only got nitrate reduction with them when I followed pondgurus guidelines for achieving a full cycle with media:
Average community tropical aquarium = 1kg per 100 litres
Average coldwater aquarium = 1kg - 1.5kg per 100 litres
Predator aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres
Large cichlid aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres
Malawi / Tanganyikan aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres
Marine aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres
Average mixed fish pond = 1kg per 200 litres
Average koi pond = 1kg per 150 litres
All my tanks read as zero nitrates & have done for years now (have tested with both strips & liquid kits & always get '0' or the lowest value on the test as the result). I had to start doing water changes based on TDS as if I based it on nitrate levels I'd never do water changes, ever lol. I had a moderately stocked community tank that was still testing as 0 nitrates after 6 months of no water changes, however when I got my first TDS pen, it read out as almost 500 ppm TDS, which was nearly 5 times the amount of the tanks that had been getting small fortnightly or monthly changes. Must admit I enjoy how much this hobby provides fascinating learning experiences for us.
I'm a Big fan of porous media :)
I have goldfish ponds and use the baked clay bcb baskets and have not yet had the results I was hoping for , would a basket of this be helpful ? 6 large goldfish in 1200litres. How much do you think to be effective? I have 4 bcbs at this stage and need another 2 , so I was thinking if useing another 2 baskets of this stuff? And for the price it will cost me I just wanted to see what you think ? Would baskets be effective enough or does it need to go through my bog maybe? .
Call info it’s also been over 40 years for us well me and then Jack inherited it ha ha ha never used any type of anything like this and I honestly never had a problem with nitrates…. looking forward to the update I may keep it in mind if it becomes a problem down the road
It could be the perfect filter media :)
I haven't tried these. However, all my filters have seachem matrix. Looks exactly the same. Put 12 liter of seachem pond matrix in my pond.
I'm a sucker for porous filter media 😊
I use Seachem matrix in all my filters, it’s great stuff 👍
It's a favorite of mine too :)
It will be very interesting to see if this product can deliver the goods Colin.
we'll know very soon :)
I just started using Seachem Matrix one month ago. Does anyone know when can I expect these anaerobic bacteria to appear? My NO3 is stable at 40mg at the moment.
The general view is from 4 - 6 months 🤞
I’d be interested to see the follow up results looks exactly like matrix, I wonder how it differs. On a side note Colin what is your substrate is it seachem fluorite black? I’m thinking of changing over my substrate currently pool filter sand.
There should be something to report on the nitrate levels before too long :)
This substrate is fine black quartz which is on an UG Tray.
When's the last time there were more emperors than endlers?
I don't have a problem with nitrates. I'm more challenged right now that one of the tetras I brought to my jungle tank had camallanus and now several others have them, too. Hopefully, I don't get a wipeout of my entire stock.
The emperors were in charge about 2 years ago, so I took most of them back to our LFS to make more space.
@@AussieAquatic maybe they'll need those Endler's too. 😀 💰