I think you sold me on this nice in between camera, that is packed with great potential, without being so ridiculously high priced. And I have not dome very much dedicated cmos camera work. But I do have a very inexpensive svbony camera, that works great for lunar observing and photography. And of late, I have tried my hand at mirror-less dslr astrophotography through my Celestron 8" Newtonian telescope. And based on my limited cmos, "eyepiece camera" experience, it seems like a no brainer to me, that this type of camera eliminates the bulky weight problems even smaller dslr's present, and the need for long extension tubes, and the focusing problems we encounter with dslr's. And this one costs at least half of what most good dslr's run, price wise. And I love your home made cooling system! I will be doing some thing similar with some of my equipment, Thank you for the great video!
I just ordered this and I am so happy! Gonna pair it to anything from a Sigma 50 ART to a Samyang 135, up to a Skaywatcher 1000 PDS for some lucky-ish imaging and not only.Those 2.4microns pixel are good news for me.
Great review by someone who knows about cameras, loved your comparisons against your Canon DSLR and the usability. I will have to watch out for more of your reviews because you put the information across in a manner that is easily understood :)
Thank you for your video. I will sure get one of these to try instead of my DSLR. Very pleased to see the result imaging a deep sky object. Keep it up and clear skies !
yes you can. Depends on the focal length of the telescope. It plate solves perfectly with my Evolux 62ED and Redcat 51. If you pair it with a longer focal length scope it might not plate solve as FoV too small.
i have the same camera now :) It is my first one. I just started with this very nice hobby. I would love to spend a weekend at your place :) Everything looks fantastic you do ! First day with my new cam and guess what ? 3 days cloudy in forecast :)
I have both the ASI1034 and the ASI178. I use the 178 for spectroscopy using a star analyzer and the all sky lens that came with it, I attached to the 1034 for meteor detection. Both cameras perform outstanding.
Hello, I'm thinking of using this camera for long exposures of the sky on a barn door tracker. Is its lens a sort of fisheye lens? I don't want to get a distorted image, want to get good timelapses with landscapes and sky.
Great Video with very nice explanations but I have some quenstiones about narrowband. It would be interesting if Ha/OIII/SII etc. works with the ASI 178 because I found nothing about Quantum efficiency on internet.
Not sure if this channel is still monitored but how did this camera stack up against the 600D long term? How long are typical subs compared to the canon?
Can you tell me what is the difference between this camera and the USB 3.0 ASI178MC-COOL version that is much larger and has built in cooler, of course except the added cooler/fan. I am trying to understand this as a buying decision point of view since the later is about twice the price of this and I am not sure if only adding fan is reasonable for the price difference. Thanks,
Sam Sen It also includes a Peltier cooling system that takes the detector well down below ambient temps. A Peltier device has a cold side and a hot side which is where the fan cooling comes in. I have Peltier cooled several cameras. Google ‘Peltier Cooling’ astro cameras, it is too much for me to write about. Southern Cross Observatory-Tasmania 42 South. 🔭
Hi Ewan, great review! Can you read the sensor temperature with this model, or it’s only available in the ASI278MM-COOL model (FITS header)? Also, what’s the Peltier power rating (amps) your are using and the temperature drop you can get with your mod? Thanks, Andre
Hi Ewan, hope I've spelled your name correctly, I am in the process of designing a peltier cooler for my ASI224 & need a bit of info please. I need the outside diameter of the small temp sender unit that comes with the temp control box, the one that you have cables tied to the aluminium plate. You videos have helped a lot with my design & once complete I will share it also. Regards Kirk
Really interesting video, thanks. I want to use my ZWO ASI 178MC with my LX90 mounted on a Fork, for Deep sky objects. I had some success using a canon DLSR and Backyard EOS software. However I am having problems getting any preview. What software do you use to capture images. I am using SharpCap. I see the recommended settings for taking frames below, but how should I setup just to preview & focus. Already got in working in daylight on the 360 camera, so S/w & drivers installed OK. Tnx Max
Thanks for the detailed review. Two questions . You said your M27 exposure was an hour's worth of 2 minute exposures so I assume 30 x 2 min. Of course its hard to compare pics since you only show on your laptop, but by appearances I don't see that much difference between your hour's worth of exposure on your 178 and my 30 x 1 min at 1600 iso exposures on my Canon 550D with a 6in F10 Mak-Cas. I am very interested in the 178, but can hardly justify the cost if its not going to be much of an improvement over my DSLR in sensitivity or noise. So first question how would you compare the 178 with your Canon and second is there a way I could download or view your Dumbbell pic to compare with mine? Thanks again for your videos. Much appreciated.
Hi Scott. You can view a higher resolution image here: www.flickr.com/photos/131079460@N06/29724104334/ but do please remember that my image was taken with the 80/600 refractor from 365 Astronomy which has a much wider field of view than your Mak-Cas. The 178MC packs an awful lot of pixels into a (compared to your DSLR) small sensor. Essentially, this means that you can take advantage of the better light gathering capabilities of a wider field of view from the scope but focus in on smaller targets. If you look at the other pics on my Flikr account, you will see a couple of images of the Rosette taken with a Canon 1000D, but the same scope. Using the 178MC, all I would have got is the centre star cluster. For your Mak-Cas, the 178 would be a brilliant galaxy-hunter and ideal for really close up imaging of things like M27 or M51. Star clusters would be amazing!
I'm impressed by your image! But why add a peltier stage since the camera is already cooled? Is this camera (or another ZWO) better than a DSLR for DSOs (enough field of view for M31)? Thank you.
Hi there. The 178MC comes in two versions - the "Cool" which has the built in cooling system and costs about £300 more than the "Standard" version which I have. The Peltier cooler cost about £20-£30 to build but it's not as controllable or integrated as the full ZWO ASI 178MC Cool. The 178 has a more restricted field of view than a DSLR. You'll find a useful field of view calculator at astronomy.tools/calculators/field_of_view/ - I use this one all the time. The restricted FOV of the 178 makes in more suitable for small objects but I've just been provided with a ZWO ASI 1600MC Cool to test and that's likely to be hugely better than both a DSLR and the 178!! Watch this space for the review in a few weeks time once I've had a play!!!!!!
Hi, I have the 178mm and am going to buy the mc version. I am struggling with the Sharpcap settings for the mm, could you post the settings you used for your Dumbell image? I have the same tube as you, ie the 150pds.
Hi Neil. Here's a copy of the "Camera Settings" data: [ZWO ASI178MC] Pan=0 Tilt=0 Output Format=Fits files (*.fits) Binning=1 Capture Area=3096x2080 ColourSpace=RGB24 Sensor Temp=18 Hardware Binning=On High Speed Mode=Off Turbo USB=45 Flip Image=None Frame Rate Limit=Maximum Gain=408 Exposure (ms)=60 Timestamp Frames=Off White Bal (B)=50 White Bal (R)=50 Brightness=50 Gamma=50 AutoExpMaxGain=255 AutoExpMaxExp=30 AutoExpMaxBrightness=100 Subtract Dark=None Display Brightness=1 Display Contrast=1 Display Gamma=1 I took darks (simply put the lens cap on the scope and carried on taking pictures so that it picked up any misfiring pixels) but only 5. Before stacking the images in Deep Sky Stacker, I used a program called PIPP to "Debayer" the images, apply the dark files and convert the final images to TIFF format. You won't need to debayer the images from the MM, but PIPP works much faster than Deep Sky Stacker at applying the darks and removing the misifed pixels from each image. The final images were then stacked in Deep Sky Stacker (ignoring the warnings that there were no darks, etc) before being processed in Photoshop. OK - final point!! I found the colour balance for the MC worked best when I mucked about with the "Colour Channel Mixer" in Photoshop (I'm sure other software has similar settings). I left the red alone, but changed the green from 100% green to 100% blue and the blue channel to 50% blue and 50% green. It gave a much better image.
Hi there. Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. Have you fixed the issue yet? Firstly, I used Sharpcap for image capture with the 178. Tick the box marked "LX" next to the exposure length and you're in long exposure mode where you can get the camera to take longer than 1 second exposures (up to a maximum of around 10000 I think). Focusing is easy once you know what you're doing, but you need to remember that the sensor is closer to the front of the camera than on your DSLR so the scope focuser needs to move "back". The easiest way to get focus is to move the focus back as far as you can and bring it forward (turn the focus knob anti-clockwise as far as it will go and move clockwise to bring the focus point forward). If you find that the focus gets worse the more you turn inwards, you need to get an extension tube (post another comment on here and I'll send you a link to AstroBoot where I think they are cheapest). Let me know how you get on and please feel free to send me a photo!!
I meant to say - if you are using Sharpcap then the "Gain" can be set to around 400 and exposure time to 1 second for focusing (it's like setting it to maximum ISO on your DSLR) then drop the Gain to 200 for imaging.
Thank you so much for the effort my friend for shooting this great review. I have two quesions please. Have you ever printed a photo from this camera to a large size? how does it hold when you zoom it in in the computer, does it get pixilated? Thank you...
Hi here! It would be nice if you could share some more of your viewing with your camara, after seeing this video I have started saveing up to buy one, Its Awesome!
Hi Adrian. I'll be posting up lots of images with different cameras and kit all the time (or at least when the clouds break and I can get some photography completed!!!) but you're welcome to follow my blog where I post links to the images: astroaddictblog.wordpress.com/
great that was! very very new to this and im just about to order a camera and dont know what one to get but i think i do now,in fact i phoned 365 this afternoon and they sent me a few camera links for me to check out.i want to take photos of orion,horsehead,eagle etc but i cant afford to buy a camera only to find out later that its not good enough as it will take me a while to get to work it correctly.i aslo need a decent guide scope and not really sure what to get and any help will be greatful , cheers fella
Hi there. 365 sell a finder/guider scope that's 60mm aperture and that's what I use. Combined with a camera with 1/4 or 1/3" sensor (the cheaper ZWO cameras or a second hand QHY5) it's perfect. I have used it to guide a 150mm Newtonian (f5), 80mm Refractor (f7.5) and 150mm Ritchey Chretien (f9), so it works well with all sorts of focal lengths!!. The 178 camera comes with an infra red cut filter - a piece of glass between the sensor and the outside world. You'll need to remove this for deep sky photography, but it's just a case of unscrewing the front cover (something it's designed for) and lifting the piece of glass out. I originally replaced it with a piece of watchface glass that I picked up off ebay, but removed that too after a while because it's not necessary. I'm now selling my 178MC, but that's because I've been so impressed with it in the 4 months I've had it that I'm now buying the 1600!! Hope this helps, but if you need anything else please let me know.
If you want to discuss buying mine, please feel free to email me at astroaddictreviews@gmail.com as couriering the cam isn't an issue (but best discussed direct rather than trying to get everything sorted on youtube!!). Cheers
Hi there. Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. I am a big fan of 365 Astronomy and that's where I buy all my ZWO kit from (I've got a 1600MC too now - review will follow!!). Here's a link to their website, set to the ZWO kit page: www.365astronomy.com/ZWOptical/
Unscrew the red front section of the camera, you will see a recess in the rear face to take either an anti reflection glass filter or a Infra Red/UV blocking filter. See ZWO website under Filters and it shows the size & type of filter you can buy-not at all expensive. I have a selection about 6 or 7 of ZWO cameras, including the ASI 178 mm. Love the ZWO gear the price point is very attractive and all their equipment integrates to make all the combinations you are likely to use. Southern Cross Observatory-Tasmania 42 South.🔭
@@vk2np It looks glued in but is just a very neat fit just in front of the detector, I use cotton gloves when changing filters, you will find it lifts out of position easily and then replaced with the new filter. The filter installed with the camera is the same as clear glass, except it has anti-reflection coatings. The clear protective filter allows all wavelengths through-so no need to change it unless you want to us the UV/IR blocking filter for natural colours in daylight if using the camera for non astro use.
@@vk2np The ZWO cameras are supplied with a clear anti-reflection coated protective glass which lets UV/IR through, as many astro imagers want full spectrum imaging. Check the ZWO website, even email them to make certain what I have said is correct. An IR/UV blocking filter is really only necessary if you want to used the camera for non astro uses, such as with a microscope, which is what I also use my ZWO cameras for.
@@ShevillMathers OK I removed the filter was easier than I thought where did you source the watch glass from that you replaced it with ?, I've just put a 1.25" IR Pass filter in the base of the nosepiece (makes the camera appear to be monochrome ) to keep dust out for now.a UV cut filter probably later for terrestrial.
I have an extension tube of about 2.5cm, will that help? I see also that you can get a flip mirror.www.365astronomy.com/images/D/zwo-asi120mm-variable-t2-extension-imaging-flip-mirror-01.jpg Do either of these help you get closer to parfocality with an eyepiece? Also the ZWO user guide shows using the camera being connected to the mirror diagonal at present I have the camera connected directly to the back. (through a focal reducer) Which physical arrangement works best? Also I have a Bahtinov mask, so I will try that. Still waiting for the clouds to clear. Thanks for all the really useful comments.
Maxchess42 Keep the number of optical surfaces to a minimum where possible. Direct connection is preferable rather than via the diagonal. Every surface you can illuminate is a plus. Southern Cross Observatory, Tasmania 42 South. 🔭
alfayez a , Hi there. In truth, this camera would be a bit of overkill for an 8" Dob. The ZWO ASI 120 MC is cheaper and will do excellent moon and planet shots, plus with the correct protective filter (Thousand Oaks or Baader film) it can be used on the sun.
Hi there. Thanks for your comment. I think critical responses can often be more valuable than positive ones so I appreciate you taking the time to give me your views. Were I to review this camera now, I would put the video together differently. In my defence, my disabilities do mean that once the pain levels hit a certain point, I do just have to stop what I'm doing and that's why all my vids are really short. I've not made a new vid in several years because of my issues, but I do think it's something I'd like to start up again and I hope you'll see an improvement!!
I think you sold me on this nice in between camera, that is packed with great potential, without being so ridiculously high priced. And I have not dome very much dedicated cmos camera work. But I do have a very inexpensive svbony camera, that works great for lunar observing and photography.
And of late, I have tried my hand at mirror-less dslr astrophotography through my Celestron 8" Newtonian telescope.
And based on my limited cmos, "eyepiece camera" experience, it seems like a no brainer to me, that this type of camera eliminates the bulky weight problems even smaller dslr's present, and the need for long extension tubes, and the focusing problems we encounter with dslr's.
And this one costs at least half of what most good dslr's run, price wise.
And I love your home made cooling system! I will be doing some thing similar with some of my equipment,
Thank you for the great video!
Fantastic Video Mate! I just ordered one today and I‘m thrilled how it‘s going to perform. Greeting from Bavaria!
I just ordered this and I am so happy! Gonna pair it to anything from a Sigma 50 ART to a Samyang 135, up to a Skaywatcher 1000 PDS for some lucky-ish imaging and not only.Those 2.4microns pixel are good news for me.
Great review by someone who knows about cameras, loved your comparisons against your Canon DSLR and the usability. I will have to watch out for more of your reviews because you put the information across in a manner that is easily understood :)
Thank you for your video. I will sure get one of these to try instead of my DSLR. Very pleased to see the result imaging a deep sky object. Keep it up and clear skies !
Nice overview of the camera. I just found your channel - subbed!
Scott
Can you do plate-solving with this camera? I wondered if the field of view is large enough.
yes you can. Depends on the focal length of the telescope. It plate solves perfectly with my Evolux 62ED and Redcat 51. If you pair it with a longer focal length scope it might not plate solve as FoV too small.
Thanks for the video advice, I was torn between the ASI290 and ASI178, you have definitely convinced me to go for the ASI178 thanks.
GREAT many thanks superb video for someone who was just about to buy a camera
Was hoping you might share some settings.... gain and offset?
i have the same camera now :) It is my first one. I just started with this very nice hobby. I would love to spend a weekend at your place :) Everything looks fantastic you do ! First day with my new cam and guess what ? 3 days cloudy in forecast :)
Almost ready to pull the trigger! What is the max exposure time? Does it work with android? would be nice and portable if so. Thank you!
I have both the ASI1034 and the ASI178. I use the 178 for spectroscopy using a star analyzer and the all sky lens that came with it, I attached to the 1034 for meteor detection. Both cameras perform outstanding.
Hi Tommy, which star analyzer did you use for it? Thanks a lot
@@patrickpat5277 I use the SA-100 and it's worked quite well with my 120apo, c8, and lx200.
@@tommyvanpelt2408 Thanks
Wouldn't a USB powered fan be easier for the Peltier cooling setup as then you can power it from a laptop?
Hello, I'm thinking of using this camera for long exposures of the sky on a barn door tracker. Is its lens a sort of fisheye lens? I don't want to get a distorted image, want to get good timelapses with landscapes and sky.
Yes, it is some type of fisheye.
13:36 ZWO seller? 😉 😁Nice Review. - Thanks. cs
Great Video with very nice explanations but I have some quenstiones about narrowband. It would be interesting if Ha/OIII/SII etc. works with the ASI 178 because I found nothing about Quantum efficiency on internet.
Hi, are you still answering comments?
Great Video and Explanation! 1+ Sub!
What's this like for autoguiding?
Not sure if this channel is still monitored but how did this camera stack up against the 600D long term? How long are typical subs compared to the canon?
Great review!!
Can you tell me what is the difference between this camera and the USB 3.0 ASI178MC-COOL version that is much larger and has built in cooler, of course except the added cooler/fan. I am trying to understand this as a buying decision point of view since the later is about twice the price of this and I am not sure if only adding fan is reasonable for the price difference. Thanks,
Sam Sen I would like to know that too.
Sam Sen It also includes a Peltier cooling system that takes the detector well down below ambient temps. A Peltier device has a cold side and a hot side which is where the fan cooling comes in. I have Peltier cooled several cameras. Google ‘Peltier Cooling’ astro cameras, it is too much for me to write about. Southern Cross Observatory-Tasmania 42 South. 🔭
I have the MM model and I love it. Thanks for the video. Very interesting the cool mod.
Hi Ewan, great review! Can you read the sensor temperature with this model, or it’s only available in the ASI278MM-COOL model (FITS header)? Also, what’s the Peltier power rating (amps) your are using and the temperature drop you can get with your mod? Thanks, Andre
Hi Ewan, hope I've spelled your name correctly, I am in the process of designing a peltier cooler for my ASI224 & need a bit of info please. I need the outside diameter of the small temp sender unit that comes with the temp control box, the one that you have cables tied to the aluminium plate. You videos have helped a lot with my design & once complete I will share it also.
Regards
Kirk
Really interesting video, thanks. I want to use my ZWO ASI 178MC with my LX90 mounted on a Fork, for Deep sky objects. I had some success using a canon DLSR and Backyard EOS software. However I am having problems getting any preview. What software do you use to capture images. I am using SharpCap. I see the recommended settings for taking frames below, but how should I setup just to preview & focus. Already got in working in daylight on the 360 camera, so S/w & drivers installed OK. Tnx Max
Can you use the camera on A Lunt solartelescope?
Thanks for the detailed review. Two questions . You said your M27 exposure was an hour's worth of 2 minute exposures so I assume 30 x 2 min. Of course its hard to compare pics since you only show on your laptop, but by appearances I don't see that much difference between your hour's worth of exposure on your 178 and my 30 x 1 min at 1600 iso exposures on my Canon 550D with a 6in F10 Mak-Cas. I am very interested in the 178, but can hardly justify the cost if its not going to be much of an improvement over my DSLR in sensitivity or noise. So first question how would you compare the 178 with your Canon and second is there a way I could download or view your Dumbbell pic to compare with mine? Thanks again for your videos. Much appreciated.
Hi Scott. You can view a higher resolution image here: www.flickr.com/photos/131079460@N06/29724104334/ but do please remember that my image was taken with the 80/600 refractor from 365 Astronomy which has a much wider field of view than your Mak-Cas. The 178MC packs an awful lot of pixels into a (compared to your DSLR) small sensor. Essentially, this means that you can take advantage of the better light gathering capabilities of a wider field of view from the scope but focus in on smaller targets. If you look at the other pics on my Flikr account, you will see a couple of images of the Rosette taken with a Canon 1000D, but the same scope. Using the 178MC, all I would have got is the centre star cluster. For your Mak-Cas, the 178 would be a brilliant galaxy-hunter and ideal for really close up imaging of things like M27 or M51. Star clusters would be amazing!
I'm impressed by your image! But why add a peltier stage since the camera is already cooled? Is this camera (or another ZWO) better than a DSLR for DSOs (enough field of view for M31)? Thank you.
Hi there. The 178MC comes in two versions - the "Cool" which has the built in cooling system and costs about £300 more than the "Standard" version which I have. The Peltier cooler cost about £20-£30 to build but it's not as controllable or integrated as the full ZWO ASI 178MC Cool.
The 178 has a more restricted field of view than a DSLR. You'll find a useful field of view calculator at astronomy.tools/calculators/field_of_view/ - I use this one all the time. The restricted FOV of the 178 makes in more suitable for small objects but I've just been provided with a ZWO ASI 1600MC Cool to test and that's likely to be hugely better than both a DSLR and the 178!!
Watch this space for the review in a few weeks time once I've had a play!!!!!!
Hi, I have the 178mm and am going to buy the mc version. I am struggling with the Sharpcap settings for the mm, could you post the settings you used for your Dumbell image? I have the same tube as you, ie the 150pds.
Hi Neil. Here's a copy of the "Camera Settings" data:
[ZWO ASI178MC]
Pan=0
Tilt=0
Output Format=Fits files (*.fits)
Binning=1
Capture Area=3096x2080
ColourSpace=RGB24
Sensor Temp=18
Hardware Binning=On
High Speed Mode=Off
Turbo USB=45
Flip Image=None
Frame Rate Limit=Maximum
Gain=408
Exposure (ms)=60
Timestamp Frames=Off
White Bal (B)=50
White Bal (R)=50
Brightness=50
Gamma=50
AutoExpMaxGain=255
AutoExpMaxExp=30
AutoExpMaxBrightness=100
Subtract Dark=None
Display Brightness=1
Display Contrast=1
Display Gamma=1
I took darks (simply put the lens cap on the scope and carried on taking pictures so that it picked up any misfiring pixels) but only 5.
Before stacking the images in Deep Sky Stacker, I used a program called PIPP to "Debayer" the images, apply the dark files and convert the final images to TIFF format. You won't need to debayer the images from the MM, but PIPP works much faster than Deep Sky Stacker at applying the darks and removing the misifed pixels from each image. The final images were then stacked in Deep Sky Stacker (ignoring the warnings that there were no darks, etc) before being processed in Photoshop.
OK - final point!! I found the colour balance for the MC worked best when I mucked about with the "Colour Channel Mixer" in Photoshop (I'm sure other software has similar settings). I left the red alone, but changed the green from 100% green to 100% blue and the blue channel to 50% blue and 50% green. It gave a much better image.
Ok, Fixed this problem, next challenge is focusing, getting blob stars
Hi there. Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. Have you fixed the issue yet?
Firstly, I used Sharpcap for image capture with the 178. Tick the box marked "LX" next to the exposure length and you're in long exposure mode where you can get the camera to take longer than 1 second exposures (up to a maximum of around 10000 I think). Focusing is easy once you know what you're doing, but you need to remember that the sensor is closer to the front of the camera than on your DSLR so the scope focuser needs to move "back". The easiest way to get focus is to move the focus back as far as you can and bring it forward (turn the focus knob anti-clockwise as far as it will go and move clockwise to bring the focus point forward). If you find that the focus gets worse the more you turn inwards, you need to get an extension tube (post another comment on here and I'll send you a link to AstroBoot where I think they are cheapest).
Let me know how you get on and please feel free to send me a photo!!
I meant to say - if you are using Sharpcap then the "Gain" can be set to around 400 and exposure time to 1 second for focusing (it's like setting it to maximum ISO on your DSLR) then drop the Gain to 200 for imaging.
Thank you so much for the effort my friend for shooting this great review. I have two quesions please. Have you ever printed a photo from this camera to a large size? how does it hold when you zoom it in in the computer, does it get pixilated? Thank you...
Hi here! It would be nice if you could share some more of your viewing with your camara, after seeing this video I have started saveing up to buy one, Its Awesome!
Hi Adrian. I'll be posting up lots of images with different cameras and kit all the time (or at least when the clouds break and I can get some photography completed!!!) but you're welcome to follow my blog where I post links to the images: astroaddictblog.wordpress.com/
great that was! very very new to this and im just about to order a camera and dont know what one to get but i think i do now,in fact i phoned 365 this afternoon and they sent me a few camera links for me to check out.i want to take photos of orion,horsehead,eagle etc but i cant afford to buy a camera only to find out later that its not good enough as it will take me a while to get to work it correctly.i aslo need a decent guide scope and not really sure what to get and any help will be greatful , cheers fella
Hi there. 365 sell a finder/guider scope that's 60mm aperture and that's what I use. Combined with a camera with 1/4 or 1/3" sensor (the cheaper ZWO cameras or a second hand QHY5) it's perfect. I have used it to guide a 150mm Newtonian (f5), 80mm Refractor (f7.5) and 150mm Ritchey Chretien (f9), so it works well with all sorts of focal lengths!!. The 178 camera comes with an infra red cut filter - a piece of glass between the sensor and the outside world. You'll need to remove this for deep sky photography, but it's just a case of unscrewing the front cover (something it's designed for) and lifting the piece of glass out. I originally replaced it with a piece of watchface glass that I picked up off ebay, but removed that too after a while because it's not necessary. I'm now selling my 178MC, but that's because I've been so impressed with it in the 4 months I've had it that I'm now buying the 1600!! Hope this helps, but if you need anything else please let me know.
cheers fella great help! if you was local i'd buy your's , thanks for you'r time
in fact im interested in buying you'rs
If you want to discuss buying mine, please feel free to email me at astroaddictreviews@gmail.com as couriering the cam isn't an issue (but best discussed direct rather than trying to get everything sorted on youtube!!). Cheers
cheers fella thats great,i'l drop you one over after 7 tonight when i get it,much appreciated!
Thanks for sharing. I am considering one of these cameras. Overall how pleased are you with it?
Thank you for this video.
I never felt the need for additional cooling for my 178... what prompted you to do this?
longer exposures are possible with less noise in the photos.
Only windows? What can I use with my macbook pro and this camera?
Sounds like you need the Mac version of ASIStudio.
Where do you recomend buying a ZWO camera? any specific online vendor?
Hi there. Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. I am a big fan of 365 Astronomy and that's where I buy all my ZWO kit from (I've got a 1600MC too now - review will follow!!). Here's a link to their website, set to the ZWO kit page: www.365astronomy.com/ZWOptical/
I ended up buying the ZWO 178 but unsure how you removed the IR filter and replaced it with a watch glass ?
Appreciate any feedback,
Cliff
Unscrew the red front section of the camera, you will see a recess in the rear face to take either an anti reflection glass filter or a Infra Red/UV blocking filter. See ZWO website under Filters and it shows the size & type of filter you can buy-not at all expensive. I have a selection about 6 or 7 of ZWO cameras, including the ASI 178 mm. Love the ZWO gear the price point is very attractive and all their equipment integrates to make all the combinations you are likely to use. Southern Cross Observatory-Tasmania 42 South.🔭
@@ShevillMathers Thanks for the replay but how did you remove the existing filter in front of the sensor ? It seems glued in ?
@@vk2np It looks glued in but is just a very neat fit just in front of the detector, I use cotton gloves when changing filters, you will find it lifts out of position easily and then replaced with the new filter. The filter installed with the camera is the same as clear glass, except it has anti-reflection coatings. The clear protective filter allows all wavelengths through-so no need to change it unless you want to us the UV/IR blocking filter for natural colours in daylight if using the camera for non astro use.
@@vk2np The ZWO cameras are supplied with a clear anti-reflection coated protective glass which lets UV/IR through, as many astro imagers want full spectrum imaging. Check the ZWO website, even email them to make certain what I have said is correct. An IR/UV blocking filter is really only necessary if you want to used the camera for non astro uses, such as with a microscope, which is what I also use my ZWO cameras for.
@@ShevillMathers
OK I removed the filter was easier than I thought where did you source the watch glass from that you replaced it with ?, I've just put a 1.25" IR Pass filter in the base of the nosepiece (makes the camera appear to be monochrome ) to keep dust out for now.a UV cut filter probably later for terrestrial.
Which Mount do you use?
I have an extension tube of about 2.5cm, will that help? I see also that you can get a flip mirror.www.365astronomy.com/images/D/zwo-asi120mm-variable-t2-extension-imaging-flip-mirror-01.jpg
Do either of these help you get closer to parfocality with an eyepiece? Also the ZWO user guide shows using the camera being connected to the mirror diagonal at present I have the camera connected directly to the back. (through a focal reducer)
Which physical arrangement works best? Also I have a Bahtinov mask, so I will try that. Still waiting for the clouds to clear.
Thanks for all the really useful comments.
Maxchess42 Keep the number of optical surfaces to a minimum where possible. Direct connection is preferable rather than via the diagonal. Every surface you can illuminate is a plus. Southern Cross Observatory, Tasmania 42 South. 🔭
very nice review
is this will be good for manual 8" dob
alfayez a , Hi there. In truth, this camera would be a bit of overkill for an 8" Dob. The ZWO ASI 120 MC is cheaper and will do excellent moon and planet shots, plus with the correct protective filter (Thousand Oaks or Baader film) it can be used on the sun.
What telescope did you use?
6 inch Newtonian
I know this is an old vid, but a review without even showing what it can do is utterly pointless.
Hi there. Thanks for your comment. I think critical responses can often be more valuable than positive ones so I appreciate you taking the time to give me your views. Were I to review this camera now, I would put the video together differently. In my defence, my disabilities do mean that once the pain levels hit a certain point, I do just have to stop what I'm doing and that's why all my vids are really short. I've not made a new vid in several years because of my issues, but I do think it's something I'd like to start up again and I hope you'll see an improvement!!