Best Switch USB replacement video I’ve seen so far (out of at least 10). Great speed, consistency, and attention to detail. ie, prepping the new port, checking the pins (both sides) then rechecking after heating up. Also not getting bogged down by questioning yourself and throwing in a hard cut after having a cry in the bathroom but actually powering through was refreshing to see. Now the use of a full sized switch port vs the lite switch port, due to availability or price is understandable, although showing how you ultimately deal with it sticking out would be a value add. Thanks much for the great addition to encyclopedia RUclips. Subbed and thumbs up!
Thank You buddy. I read this comment and it really means a lot to us that you appreciate all of our hard work and effort in trying to do the best in our repairs. I will try to address the changes in ports from the Switch, Switch Lite and OLED Switch. Thanx for everything and we also do mods and repairs so if you have anything I can definitely give you 10% off on your repairs my friend!!!
Every hot air station is different so to give an accurate temperature and airflow along with distance you are using on each component would be hard, do you use an Atten hot air station as I do?
great video, but is it better to put protection for the rest of the motherboard? I have seen videos that put it, and if so, is aluminum enough or is it special protection?
When I went to school for microsoldering they said it it’s mainly unnecessary unless you have a lot of chips with under fill near the area or plastic, I actually just put a metal shield over that battery connector now but I can still do it without it like I did in the video, it’s not a big deal if you know what you are doing and aren’t directing heat in those areas.
@@trilexfix I targeted the heat but unfortunately the plastic inside the part melted, so it shifted the "tab" inside the usb port so it was impossible to put the cable in, fortunately I had 2 pieces but nothing to do, I welded it but the small branches did not all weld, and as I don't know myself well enough I gave up because it's too precise and too small for me 😅, thank you for your answer and your video, +1 sub by a french beginner !
@@martyw1488 I take off all of the factory solder and use 60/40 kester solder which you don’t have to use as much heat and when I solder it back on I use a lower heating temperature. Using a lower heat won’t damage the insides of the port.
By far the most useful/helpful video I’ve ever seen
Best Switch USB replacement video I’ve seen so far (out of at least 10). Great speed, consistency, and attention to detail. ie, prepping the new port, checking the pins (both sides) then rechecking after heating up. Also not getting bogged down by questioning yourself and throwing in a hard cut after having a cry in the bathroom but actually powering through was refreshing to see.
Now the use of a full sized switch port vs the lite switch port, due to availability or price is understandable, although showing how you ultimately deal with it sticking out would be a value add.
Thanks much for the great addition to encyclopedia RUclips. Subbed and thumbs up!
Thank You buddy. I read this comment and it really means a lot to us that you appreciate all of our hard work and effort in trying to do the best in our repairs. I will try to address the changes in ports from the Switch, Switch Lite and OLED Switch. Thanx for everything and we also do mods and repairs so if you have anything I can definitely give you 10% off on your repairs my friend!!!
Also check out our recent video with orange screen of death fix ruclips.net/video/pHL3g11mJT4/видео.html
thanks for this was very helpful! love the music in the back
Thanx Anthony!!!
one solderer to another, nice work!
Thanx buddy do you have a RUclips channel, we would love to see your work!!!
@@trilexfix unfortunately, not right now but maybe in the future!
Amazing video
What temp should you use for the iron and hot air? Thanks for the video.
Every hot air station is different so to give an accurate temperature and airflow along with distance you are using on each component would be hard, do you use an Atten hot air station as I do?
Bro is a real one. Thanks bud. I’m timid to melt the black plastic when heating. Do you have any tips to help me? Thx
Use your hand as a guide if you burn your hand the plastic will burn use a shield to cover plastic and tons of trial and error.
Thanks for share
Thanx friend!!!
Amazing viedo
Thanx my friend!!!
Very nice
Thank you buddy!!!
great video, but is it better to put protection for the rest of the motherboard? I have seen videos that put it, and if so, is aluminum enough or is it special protection?
When I went to school for microsoldering they said it it’s mainly unnecessary unless you have a lot of chips with under fill near the area or plastic, I actually just put a metal shield over that battery connector now but I can still do it without it like I did in the video, it’s not a big deal if you know what you are doing and aren’t directing heat in those areas.
@@trilexfix I targeted the heat but unfortunately the plastic inside the part melted, so it shifted the "tab" inside the usb port so it was impossible to put the cable in, fortunately I had 2 pieces but nothing to do, I welded it but the small branches did not all weld, and as I don't know myself well enough I gave up because it's too precise and too small for me 😅, thank you for your answer and your video, +1 sub by a french beginner !
@@martyw1488 I take off all of the factory solder and use 60/40 kester solder which you don’t have to use as much heat and when I solder it back on I use a lower heating temperature. Using a lower heat won’t damage the insides of the port.
Nice
Thank you
my friend!!!
That background 🤨
You know you love it baby!!!
@@trilexfix is it from planrock124 ???
Amazing video
thank you my friend!!