Thanks for the comment about how I breakdown my method. I just want to spread the word if something has helped me and worked. Just doing a Wespe at the moment with 2 colour camo. We’ll see how it comes out.
Cheers for the comment, the Value gear stowage was really cheap ( in UK anyway) , brought some other bits for a couple of upcoming dios too. Thank u again
Excellent tutorial. The finished results are superb, especially when close up photos of my own efforts reveal so much mess and yours are faultless. I am sure enough will have sunk in for me to benefit on the next one.Thanks.
Cheers, thanks for the kind words. The chipping didn’t work out as well as I hoped, the colours were maybe a bit too similar. I have been looking at dusting models with the airbrush which gave good results. Video maybe soon . Struggling for time at mo. Cheers again.
Nice. I am currently restoring a weapons carrier. Having to have all the canvas parts completely remade. The seats, and two part cover while present are literally rotten.
Very well done! The only thing I will say is that typically on Jeeps when you get chipping or paint rubbing off from use the first color you’ll see will be the red primer and then the bare metal underneath that. Just a small detail but that’s what miniatures are all about. Keep up the good work!
Just watched a couple of videos on how to put metallic colors on a plane To get that uneven metal effect of aluminum He just showed All of the videos up I've got a red tail I'm getting ready to do So I plan on using black Hi glass As my undercoat Can you something somewhere to this technique And then screen aluminum over that
I love what you have done. I love working on jeeps. I currently have three of them. One with a .50 cal on it. one with a .30 on it and the other plain with a cover. I kit bashed another Model Jeep I had with some missing parts. Your weathering looks pretty damn bad assed. You got a big thumbs up from me.
@@ctscalemodellinguk Sprus can give you some great Ideas. After I complete a model I detach what is left over and the parts are separated and each piece is put into it's own categorized container for later use
One thing I have always had a short circuit over when thinking about this. On a kit like this which has many items, tools, equipment, etc attached to the main vehicle body... is it best to glue everything on at once, then spray the main vehicle do what needs to be done with camouflage and then go back with a brush to paint or touch up the accessories? Or, should you build the accessories and the main vehicle, keep them separate and paint, etc the vehicle then paint the tool boxes, shovels, axes, sleeping rolls, ammo boxes, Jerry cans and glue them on after. Then there is the paint some parts as you go, internal or underneath, visible portions, dashboards, etc. It is something I have long agonized over, thinking if I put everything on, then I can't get under the equipment to the main body and might not be able to paint that equipment properly as it is already glued on. What is your position on this please?
Hi generally fix all in place, the main exception to this is towing cables for me, these I add on after. The main thing is to do the weathering with all fixed in place even if painted separately.🙂
@@spencergregory8049 I see your point, you can't just apply it uniformly. Maybe it's easier for those with the skills to add everything on and then go back with a fine brush and paint a shovel handle with no problems. This inertia preventing me from starting has been hard to get over, especially as I am expecting to be perfect first time - more from a waste and cost perspective than anything. I just should start with small cheap kits and sacrifice them before going after the big kits. And don't get me started on seams.. Oh the horror! I have a few Saturn V kits and the problems some youtubers have highlighted makes me want to sell them all on eBay than to have to deal with it.
@@andrewstamford1988 I'm the same. I've just almost finished this jeep and I'm already thinking what next and what I can do better. But it's a hobby and shouldn't cause anxiety. I keep an old test spray kit that I practice on and with stowage remember that with afv models you can always cover with tarps if you don't like it. Or cammo nets which show a basic outline but no real details
@@spencergregory8049 Good points. No if only my brain would listen. It should be about fun and enjoyment. I'm not at that point yet and still stressing mainly as I don't have the degree of skills yet to do as well as I would want to. I'l be straight up now. I have been buying kits since the pandemic started and I haven't even opened one yet! Talk about neurotic. I have nearly 40 kits and I think I get more pleasure out picking up bargains during sales than anything else! It's time I snapped out of this and just cracked one open. 🤪
Great tutorial!!!; I know this video goes a bit back, but I have a quick question for you: Working on the same kit, primed in Tamiya Fine Grey and painted with Tamiya Lacker spray paint in Olive Drab; can I use now wash paints like Citadel Agrax Earthshade straight into the model?, or being enamel paints they would require a prior clear coat? (Not really clear as the clear spray can is also Tamiya and I’m assuming is also Lacker no?). I do have a hand full of Citadel primer spray in several colors, but someone told me not to use them if I was using the Tamiya Lacker as they are meant for Enamel paint only). Thank you for any help 😊
Hi, thanks for watching and taking time to comment. I tend to only use agrax on figures with probably no clear coat. regarding the clear coat order, I tend to only use Tamiya XF22 or a pledge polish for sealing the kit, have used this on ak and vallejo ok so I can use enamel based washes. I do use gouache acrylic washes now too which are water based. The cleat coat is just about protecting the paint and decals. I finish generally with Tamiya matt or ak matt coat. My latest videos may help. Cheers again and questions just ask thats why I have a channel.
Thanks for the prompt reply, I can understand the washes being water based wont affect the lacker paint, but as far as the primer goes, Citadell’s Clorax White or Chaos Black would still adhere to lacker well?, or should I stop being stubborn and go back to Tamiya Fine?…. THANKS!!!! 🙂@@ctscalemodellinguk
@@Juan_Mattos hi, I dont have experience of using the primers you mention so could only say experiment on scrap. I use car primer spray a lot these days without issues.
Hi there great build and if I can get anywhere near this I will be over the moon. Ay 10:20 you mix a pigment wash for weathering. What colour pigments did you use ?
Cheers just followed link, test of memory. Think I have used a pigment from the Sherman project ruclips.net/video/5pgG8yxBk4A/видео.html . I probably need to watch it again to answer your query and struggling for time this weekend.
I have watched the M4 video now. My AK Dark brown for green vehicles panel liner wash is going off so I have thinned it in a separate pot. Makes sense using it as they are both green vehicles. In my latest vids I use gouache paint more instead of pigments aswell if you wish take a look.🙂
I’m thinking of model making as a hobby in retirement, not made any since I was a kid. How long did it take you to get this good it’s very daunting. Great video many thanks for your time.
Hi thanks for comment. Until just before covid I didn’t own my own airbrush, had spent 10 years at 1/72 and a brush. Its just about finding techniques you’re happy with, I don’t like over complicated processes etc. I too have an eye on retirement, the channel is part of the plan. Cheers for kind words.🙂
It's inspirational to hear you say that you should not over complicate things. Theres so much information out there I find it very daunting. So much so I'm ready to quit?
Hi new sub to your channel, can i ask what psi you put your primer on ? Also did you add any thinner to it ,?great work on this model ive just bought one and im trying to get the plastic template you used to paint the wheels but i cant seem to find one anywhere, can you help point me in the right direction if poss cheers 😊
@@nidge2822 hi thanks for sub, I’m experimenting with primer at the moment, I generally only use it on aircraft, I got good results with mr hobby primer surfacer but have used rattle cans from auto store. Tanks etc I use just black acrylic paint. I use cheap airbrushed but have recently got a Tamiya superfine, the psi etc depends on the paint with Tamiya its between 15 and 20, I get bad airbrush days still. Hope my stuff helps.
@@ctscalemodellinguk I've got the tamiya black x and the black xf which one will be best out of the two ?also where can I buy that circle template from 😊
@@nidge2822 Hi I use XF paints, the circle template is a drawing tool, mine is from when I was a draughtsman before CAD came in. A store like hobbycraft in the uk may have one.
Bonjour, je fais le même kit en ce moment avec mitrailleuse de 12,7 ...... le travail de salissures et de vieillissement est superbe, très belle réalisation..... petite question, quel produit utilisez vous pour les lavis (filtres) je vous souhaite une bonne continuation je me suis abonné avec grand plaisir..... amicalement Lionel. Provins France
Hi thanks for watching. On this kit I used just a pin wash from AK, one for brown vehicles. I didn’t use it as filter or overall wash on it as it tends to darken it to much for my taste. I like to make my oil washes sometimes so you get the dilution just right. Hope this helps. Enjoy you builds. I hope you like my content and modelling journey.👍👍👍
Whoever designed that stowage never tried to drive a loaded Jeep. First corner and that lot is gone. Your steering wheel is placed wrong for the wheels facing forwards. A spoke should point straight up (important when driving at night tactically). The engine bay is wrong. The engines were aircraft grey and the peripherals (regulator, oil filter, air filter etc) black. Mine are 78 years old and are still shiny black. They rarely rust under regular use and certainly don’t fade. The oil cap should be black. Some later ones were yellow. Never red. If you’ve seen one it’s a fabrication. Very pretty otherwise.
Sorry you think its useless and didn’t help. I tend not to voice over my tutorials that much. It has been quite a popular video on my site. Hope you can find the tutorial your after soon. Many thanks.
Looks.. INCREDIBLE!
Hope it helps
Great work
Another nice how to! Jeep came out great, nice painting and weathering done on it. Thanks for sharing, take care and keep up the good work my friend.
Thanks for watching my videos as always, appreciate the support and feedback.
Amazing build
Great video , Thank you for sharing ! I love those Value Gear stowage , the fit is outstanding. Hope you have a great/safe week. Cheers, Tony
Cheers glad you liked my video. U too keep safe.
Excellently finished. It's very nice tutorial. Also, it's easy to understand what you want to do and done. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the comment about how I breakdown my method. I just want to spread the word if something has helped me and worked. Just doing a Wespe at the moment with 2 colour camo. We’ll see how it comes out.
That is a very interesting paint technique which I think I’m going to have to give it a try
Thanks, from memory maybe the difference between the colours should be greater, although its been a popular video. Cheers for watching.👍
Awesome build my friend keep up the good work 👍
Cheers glad u like it, I’ve recently posted an M151 mutt video too🙂
Great work! I love the classic willys with tons of stowage!
Cheers for the comment, the Value gear stowage was really cheap ( in UK anyway) , brought some other bits for a couple of upcoming dios too. Thank u again
great work always enjoy watching !
Cheers mate, thanks for supporting my channel.👍
Excellent tutorial. The finished results are superb, especially when close up photos of my own efforts reveal so much mess and yours are faultless. I am sure enough will have sunk in for me to benefit on the next one.Thanks.
Cheers, thanks for the kind words. The chipping didn’t work out as well as I hoped, the colours were maybe a bit too similar. I have been looking at dusting models with the airbrush which gave good results. Video maybe soon . Struggling for time at mo. Cheers again.
Awesome attention to detail as always
I just have a few methods that work for me. Thanks for the comment and watching my channel.👍
Nice. I am currently restoring a weapons carrier. Having to have all the canvas parts completely remade. The seats, and two part cover while present are literally rotten.
Very well done! The only thing I will say is that typically on Jeeps when you get chipping or paint rubbing off from use the first color you’ll see will be the red primer and then the bare metal underneath that. Just a small detail but that’s what miniatures are all about. Keep up the good work!
Cheers I did wonder at the time, sometimes its what stands out well. Cheers for watching appreciate comment and support
Great tutorial . The weathering aspect is splendid ! Congrats , Robert .
Many thanks mate👍👍
I could never do this. Beautiful job.
Its just a bit of practice with an airbrush really.
Great build will definitely add to stash ,eventually 🙃✌🇨🇦✌
Cheers, it was a quick build, was going to use it in my Sherman Dio then changed my mind. Thx for watchin my channel, much appreciated 🙂🙂🙂
very nice build , just 1 question . if the back of the Jeep is full of stuf wouldn't the back tires be a little flattened of the weight ?
@@kermitje1 Thanks for watching, I guess weight would show through the shape of the tyre. Hope my video helped.
Well done!
Cheers glad u liked it.🙂
Just watched a couple of videos on how to put metallic colors on a plane To get that uneven metal effect of aluminum He just showed All of the videos up I've got a red tail I'm getting ready to do So I plan on using black Hi glass As my undercoat Can you something somewhere to this technique And then screen aluminum over that
Hi note sure I understand the question my friend. The closest thing on my channel is a Mig 21 and F14. Cheers
I love what you have done. I love working on jeeps. I currently have three of them. One with a .50 cal on it. one with a .30 on it and the other plain with a cover. I kit bashed another Model Jeep I had with some missing parts. Your weathering looks pretty damn bad assed. You got a big thumbs up from me.
Cheers hope some of the ways I like to make models helps. There is still plenty on the sprues for other projects too. Thanks for watching.
@@ctscalemodellinguk Sprus can give you some great Ideas. After I complete a model I detach what is left over and the parts are separated and each piece is put into it's own categorized container for later use
@@andrewluchsinger wish I was so organised 🙂
@@ctscalemodellinguk Believe me. It sure helps.
One thing I have always had a short circuit over when thinking about this.
On a kit like this which has many items, tools, equipment, etc attached to the main vehicle body... is it best to glue everything on at once, then spray the main vehicle do what needs to be done with camouflage and then go back with a brush to paint or touch up the accessories?
Or, should you build the accessories and the main vehicle, keep them separate and paint, etc the vehicle then paint the tool boxes, shovels, axes, sleeping rolls, ammo boxes, Jerry cans and glue them on after.
Then there is the paint some parts as you go, internal or underneath, visible portions, dashboards, etc.
It is something I have long agonized over, thinking if I put everything on, then I can't get under the equipment to the main body and might not be able to paint that equipment properly as it is already glued on. What is your position on this please?
Hi generally fix all in place, the main exception to this is towing cables for me, these I add on after.
The main thing is to do the weathering with all fixed in place even if painted separately.🙂
If I may offer an option. I think it depends on the model and what you are adding. Like you I agonize but I think it depends on each project.
@@spencergregory8049 I see your point, you can't just apply it uniformly. Maybe it's easier for those with the skills to add everything on and then go back with a fine brush and paint a shovel handle with no problems.
This inertia preventing me from starting has been hard to get over, especially as I am expecting to be perfect first time - more from a waste and cost perspective than anything.
I just should start with small cheap kits and sacrifice them before going after the big kits. And don't get me started on seams.. Oh the horror! I have a few Saturn V kits and the problems some youtubers have highlighted makes me want to sell them all on eBay than to have to deal with it.
@@andrewstamford1988 I'm the same. I've just almost finished this jeep and I'm already thinking what next and what I can do better. But it's a hobby and shouldn't cause anxiety. I keep an old test spray kit that I practice on and with stowage remember that with afv models you can always cover with tarps if you don't like it. Or cammo nets which show a basic outline but no real details
@@spencergregory8049 Good points. No if only my brain would listen. It should be about fun and enjoyment. I'm not at that point yet and still stressing mainly as I don't have the degree of skills yet to do as well as I would want to.
I'l be straight up now. I have been buying kits since the pandemic started and I haven't even opened one yet! Talk about neurotic. I have nearly 40 kits and I think I get more pleasure out picking up bargains during sales than anything else! It's time I snapped out of this and just cracked one open. 🤪
Great tutorial!!!; I know this video goes a bit back, but I have a quick question for you: Working on the same kit, primed in Tamiya Fine Grey and painted with Tamiya Lacker spray paint in Olive Drab; can I use now wash paints like Citadel Agrax Earthshade straight into the model?, or being enamel paints they would require a prior clear coat? (Not really clear as the clear spray can is also Tamiya and I’m assuming is also Lacker no?).
I do have a hand full of Citadel primer spray in several colors, but someone told me not to use them if I was using the Tamiya Lacker as they are meant for Enamel paint only).
Thank you for any help 😊
Hi, thanks for watching and taking time to comment. I tend to only use agrax on figures with probably no clear coat. regarding the clear coat order, I tend to only use Tamiya XF22 or a pledge polish for sealing the kit, have used this on ak and vallejo ok so I can use enamel based washes. I do use gouache acrylic washes now too which are water based. The cleat coat is just about protecting the paint and decals. I finish generally with Tamiya matt or ak matt coat. My latest videos may help. Cheers again and questions just ask thats why I have a channel.
Thanks for the prompt reply, I can understand the washes being water based wont affect the lacker paint, but as far as the primer goes, Citadell’s Clorax White or Chaos Black would still adhere to lacker well?, or should I stop being stubborn and go back to Tamiya Fine?…. THANKS!!!! 🙂@@ctscalemodellinguk
@@Juan_Mattos hi, I dont have experience of using the primers you mention so could only say experiment on scrap. I use car primer spray a lot these days without issues.
Hi there great build and if I can get anywhere near this I will be over the moon. Ay 10:20 you mix a pigment wash for weathering. What colour pigments did you use ?
Cheers just followed link, test of memory. Think I have used a pigment from the Sherman project ruclips.net/video/5pgG8yxBk4A/видео.html . I probably need to watch it again to answer your query and struggling for time this weekend.
@CT scale modelling UK no need to. I will look through it now thank you 🙏
@@Meirion658 I’ll take a look anyway, let me know if issues still.
I have watched the M4 video now. My AK Dark brown for green vehicles panel liner wash is going off so I have thinned it in a separate pot. Makes sense using it as they are both green vehicles. In my latest vids I use gouache paint more instead of pigments aswell if you wish take a look.🙂
@@ctscalemodellinguk 🙏🙏
I’m thinking of model making as a hobby in retirement, not made any since I was a kid. How long did it take you to get this good it’s very daunting. Great video many thanks for your time.
Hi thanks for comment. Until just before covid I didn’t own my own airbrush, had spent 10 years at 1/72 and a brush. Its just about finding techniques you’re happy with, I don’t like over complicated processes etc. I too have an eye on retirement, the channel is part of the plan. Cheers for kind words.🙂
It's inspirational to hear you say that you should not over complicate things. Theres so much information out there I find it very daunting. So much so I'm ready to quit?
Hi new sub to your channel, can i ask what psi you put your primer on ? Also did you add any thinner to it ,?great work on this model ive just bought one and im trying to get the plastic template you used to paint the wheels but i cant seem to find one anywhere, can you help point me in the right direction if poss cheers 😊
@@nidge2822 hi thanks for sub, I’m experimenting with primer at the moment, I generally only use it on aircraft, I got good results with mr hobby primer surfacer but have used rattle cans from auto store. Tanks etc I use just black acrylic paint. I use cheap airbrushed but have recently got a Tamiya superfine, the psi etc depends on the paint with Tamiya its between 15 and 20, I get bad airbrush days still. Hope my stuff helps.
@@ctscalemodellinguk I've got the tamiya black x and the black xf which one will be best out of the two ?also where can I buy that circle template from 😊
@@nidge2822 Hi I use XF paints, the circle template is a drawing tool, mine is from when I was a draughtsman before CAD came in. A store like hobbycraft in the uk may have one.
@@ctscalemodellinguk many thanks for your help much appreciated
@@nidge2822 no problem, I do my channel to share what works for me without too much fuss.
Bonjour, je fais le même kit en ce moment avec mitrailleuse de 12,7 ...... le travail de salissures et de vieillissement est superbe, très belle réalisation..... petite question, quel produit utilisez vous pour les lavis (filtres) je vous souhaite une bonne continuation je me suis abonné avec grand plaisir..... amicalement Lionel. Provins France
Hi thanks for watching. On this kit I used just a pin wash from AK, one for brown vehicles. I didn’t use it as filter or overall wash on it as it tends to darken it to much for my taste. I like to make my oil washes sometimes so you get the dilution just right. Hope this helps. Enjoy you builds. I hope you like my content and modelling journey.👍👍👍
Learning lots here. What part of the weathering process gives you the most satisfaction?
Cheers for watching, pin wash as it makes the most impact for the effort. I do try to get pre shading to do the heavy lifting of the paint process.🙂
Dear sir,
In the video 6:01, the seat looks real. What color do you use to paint it?
Would you please share me the color number and brand? Thank yoiu
Hi, i’ll take a look and let u know. Its been a while since posting. Cheers for watching
Hi Its a Revell paint 46. Hope it helps
@@ctscalemodellinguk Great. Thanks a lot
Do you have the direct link to this kit?
Hi no, it’s generally available in the UK as its Tamiya sorry can’t help with that
It's just a Tamiya catalogue number 35219 1/35 Jeep Willys MB 1/4 ton truck - should be available from any store and definitely online retailers.
They do an SAS one two with the soldiers disguised as arabs!
The M1 Garand is well made ...
Cheers been a while since I posted it, but was nice to paint
Whoever designed that stowage never tried to drive a loaded Jeep. First corner and that lot is gone. Your steering wheel is placed wrong for the wheels facing forwards. A spoke should point straight up (important when driving at night tactically). The engine bay is wrong. The engines were aircraft grey and the peripherals (regulator, oil filter, air filter etc) black. Mine are 78 years old and are still shiny black. They rarely rust under regular use and certainly don’t fade. The oil cap should be black. Some later ones were yellow. Never red. If you’ve seen one it’s a fabrication. Very pretty otherwise.
Cheers for feedback on my painting project appreciated.
Sorry My Volume must be Down I did not Hear a word you said Video Useless
Sorry you think its useless and didn’t help. I tend not to voice over my tutorials that much. It has been quite a popular video on my site. Hope you can find the tutorial your after soon. Many thanks.