The videos that you make tweaking and adjusting, as well as those where you're addressing mistakes are some of the most valuable to me. They give insight to your troubleshooting process and mindset. Thank you for taking they extra time to shoot and edit these.
I know this is old but I wanted to tell you how much I have enjoyed your videos. I’m an old retired woodworker and I don’t do much these days. I had a furniture fabrication and restoration business for years. Bug my health forced me to retire. I just like watching your creative process. But I wanted your thoughts on a simple Electric potters wheel. I’m sure you could whip out a video on that in no time at all. Anyway I miss your videos. I hope this gets to you.
There was a guy I used to know who had done machining for so long, and on the same set of tooling, that he could measure something freely with his thumb and one other finger (depending on the dimension), take it over to the machine, and mill it to within 1-2 THOU! (1/1000th") From his friggin' thumb!!!
Entropy being a constant & major force in the life of all mass, starting w/ accuracy and designing tunability into any mechanism is of the utmost import !! Another great job Matthias :)Sincerely ............
Hi Mathias, just to tell you that you are inspiration and motivation for many people around the globe. Pls, do not pay attention to worthless comments. Many regards from Montenegro
On one hand it's very interesting to see and learn how you build your machines. On the other it's just relaxing watching your videos :) Greetings from Germany !
Its really nice that your ego is so well controlled that you never mind showing any errors that you might make as this is very helpful with our own troubleshooting!
Nice video Mathias, quick and easy learning about clean and precise working. Follow your videos religiously. This is the best project next to the bandsaw so far. Thanks for sharing. Regards from a verry hot Germany, Robert
Hi Matthias. This is perhaps the most useful part of the as usually excellent series. Analysis and overcoming challenges. FYI there is a design technique using a split cotter for clamping a shaft that avoids subsequent 'wiggle'. Drill cross hole first. Insert cotter. Drill and ream shaft hole intersecting the cotter by about 30%. Remove cotter, drill axial hole through cotter, cut cotter into two cylindrical haves. The resultant fit on the shaft is very smooth and close and tightening a bolt through the two halves of the cotter locks the shaft securely. The cross hole of course has to be a nice fit on the cotter. There's probably a 'best' choice of woods to use, but that's much more your area of expertise than mine. Cheers. BobUK.
I like these videos that show the troubleshooting and fixing process. Making stuff like this perfect first time seems impossible, it's a hand made machine and it's likely to need at least some tweaking and I think it's important to show people this. I'd love to build one of these some time, looks like a really useful tool.
HELPS a lot.... I bought the extruded pantorouter years ago and could never get it to work right. It's been collecting dust! I could never get it to cut without it cutting the parts on an angle side to side. Even had a new template holder sent to me (although I built numerous blocks and level jigs to put the template on the template holder level to the table) I knew it wasn't in the template holder. I did find the store bought templates to be not very good, (might be improved now?) especially the slot which would run tight then loose across its width even using the store bought template follower. I measured every piece of aluminum extrusion and they were great, I couldn't figure it out and got very frustrated and put it out of site. Now I am inspired again and will check to make sure that all points line up to the router bit like you described in the video... hopefully this works! I bought early, when things were still being sorted out I think. Didn't want to cause too much trouble as I thought it was and is such a cool machine. Would very much like to get it working though, they are kind of expensive to have collect dust.
@tableshaper I want to recommend you to check the alignment of the router bit with the two pins of that link (that holds the router). If the bit axis is higher than the line connecting the two pins or is not exactly in the middle of the distance but closer to you, then will cut a slant upward as you move it away from you, and if the center of the router bit is lower or closer to the far pin, will cut a slant downward. This is checked by me on a pantorouter assembly project in solidworks, having all the components perfectly parallel. Hope you will succeed debugging your machine. @Matthias Wandell I am building my own pantorouter, using your pantorouter XL video clips as an inspiration. I have the same problem (slanted cuts) and now I am in the process of solving it. Thank you for your time and work.
I love your videos, they have inspired me to get my own woodworking area and tools. I have been woodworking since 9 or 10 and I'm 14 i have been making and selling things for my family and friends ( I also do a little bit of metal work). so thanks a lot for making great and inspiring videos for people like me, to learn and make. and after you do that could you try and make a drill press out of a hand drill and a motor
He's stated before that the forces and accuracy necessary to build a drill press, really require the kind of parts that can only commonly be found.....in an existing drill press. A wooden drill press wouldn't provide the results that would make it worth building. If you tried to buy the materials that would give a suitable result, it would cost more than a good basic drill press, let alone a good garage-sale drill press.
Hey Matthias, your videos are always interesting, and fun to watch. Those that complain about them not beeing as good anymore, are looking for the missing thing in their life, but they won't find it in anyone else's videos either. Unless they fix their problem, they'll never be totally happy with anything. So don't worry about it, and don't let it get you down. :) Thanks for all your videos, I know it's a lot of work.
This video is a good illustration of your point making v. buying. If you make, theres alot of personal fine tuning. Theres some fine tuning needed on the pantarouter you can buy, but its mostly out of the box ready to go.
I love how he uses the exact same scene in 2:52 and 5:07 while cutting the mortise. (You can spot it by the bearing an the caliper on the pantorouter, the pliers behind it and the already cut mortise on the workpiece.)
at the beginning of video I would have advised you to increase the diameter of the tracker's shaft but then I saw that in the new arm you have shortened the lever arm and therefore means that we had the same thought. nice job Matthias!
I had the impression that the diameter of the tracker's stem (the detail on the right at time 1:10) was too thin. In addition, the hole in the pantograph handle was wide and therefore the accuracy suffered. When you redone the new lever, you have reduced the distance between template and lever (6:17) thus reducing the flexibility, unwanted, and imagined by me, of the shaft. I thought then that we had the same thought on the shaft
Nice work. That looked painful. I recently installed my workshop cabinets, on a very sloped floor. It took a very long time to level 3 independent cabinets over 12 feet, and in 2 planes. I thankfully used homemade levelling feet, made it much easier. Still took a long time.
Hello! In your projects I have seen that you use a very nice quality or materials. Like good plywood and woods. Can you, please, speak a little about them?
In regards to the alignement of the guide to the table, putting a solid, smooth pin in the router would allow it to follow the table top and you could then measure alignment with a dial against the guide.
Enjoy your instructional videos. Maybe not closely related to this particular video, but have you ever done any experimenting with lubricating tools - e.g. router bits, during the machining of wood? A friend suggested Danish oil.
As for the follower shaft: why not use an inset thread with a through bore, and then mount the bearing on a piece of threaded rod? That way you don't need a locking mechanism (maybe some lucking nuts), you get better control over follower depth, and you minimize wiggle.
at 9:00 you could also have put a thin piece of wood near one of the black screw that hold the machine in place, which would have pushed the machine a little bit left or right. but nice video :) you are my inspiration for my future project ^^
Would the lever handle be better if made of layers of plywood to reduce twisting with time? I have no need of this machine but still interesting to watch. You would have fit right in with the Wright brothers - always tinkering and experimenting.
I did not mean that the solid wood handle was not strong enough. I meant that the solid handle will be subject to warping and misalignment as it ages and with changes in humidity. Plywood has less tendency to twist with time.
There is no doubt that you are a "genius"... so... here you have a new subscriber. Your video is very interesting, you have chosen a very complicate machine to build by your own. Congratulations!!!.. I have two suggestion for you: 1.- Try a laser level to detect miss parallelism errors easily (a cheap laser level could cost less than 10$) 2.- Your audience could grow even more if you try to speak just a little slowly. Then those who do not speak english as mother tongue like me could understand you better. Thanks for the video, i will wait for the next one.
5:48 How upsetting is it to have to make something again? I really admire your perseverance. Having to remake things always bugs the ever-loving heck out of me. I usually wait weeks or months until I do it.
Matthias, I think he is meaning remaking the lever piece to replace the now less "clever" mechanism with that type you used in the other pantograph. (And not the pantograph rebuild for video documentation itself.)
I like how quickly you troubleshoot the problems, almost like you've done this before. On the card memory, is the a way to write an output from the video card to your pi? Then just have it set off warnings both visual and audible.
I have a quantitative question that could be resolved by a simple test. Take a 2x4, cross-cut it in half, and make a mortise on one cut end and a tenon on the other. When you stick the two pieces back together, how precisely are they aligned? Is the precision you're using now (ie, eyeballing and shimming the alignment of pins with a precision of a few tenths of a mm) good enough for your typical project? With your fingertip, you could feel a misalignment of a few thousandths of an inch. For fine woodworking, that's what you'd want to achieve. Is it possible (say with more precise measurements) - or would you have to machine the pantorouter in metal?
There are some parts of this that I would probably want to make out of a combination of metal and wood rather than just wood, just to make it easier to make them rigid and perhaps smaller/thinner. A question springs to mind as well; in making several of these have you experienced any problems due to wood changing shape after the build is complete? I know you mentioned building in some adjustability to allow for it, but has that shown itself to be necessary so far? Also when cutting the parallel motion parts, would you consider clamping all the parts together and drilling the holes on a drill press? This would ensure that all four parts had identically placed holes at least. Is there a reason you know of for not doing that?
So I love that you make tools out of wood. But, as a RUclips collaboration, have you considered asking AvE to build your design to exact parameters? Scookum as frig...!
Matthias, starting to really come together. I just purchased the combo plans for the 6x48 and 1x42 belt sander. Got half of the 6x48 together today. Easy to follow. Are you going to upload and sell plans for the new pantorouter once its finished?
Matthias I have a CNC plasma table and would be able to make this from steel (I know heavy). But would be able to cut very accurately. Wondering if you can think of any issues I’d have to address with the design other than material thicknesses.
Rather than making small adjustments to the pantograph assembly, would it be possible to tilt the table slightly to match the slight inaccuracies? Would that be easier? Could it cause problems later on with certain uses of the pantorouter?
OH, and I'm just wondering why some company has not yet snapped you up as a consultant...you would do your creations there in your shop, they could take apart, measure and patent and sell to smucks like all the rest of us. We would buy!!!! Or hey...you get a buddy to do so!@$!@#$!@#$! CONGRATS AS ALWAYS.
I think having it tighter on the sides of the mechanism pivot's would help by adding some washers, there's bound to be some twisting under Force Plus you make your joints way too loose
Close is good enough. That’s why I like metal work. Not machining, Not the kind of work that requires calipers, welding and forging. Meh, that looks good. Oh and I loved the drill and belt sander trick.
wood is a hell of a drug! ;) i had similar problems, the first issue is wood is not a precise material in the first place. If you want that you must use only hardwood/Multilayerwood AND mill all Dimenesions to your needs. If you dont do that all that 0,1-2mm height/lenght/width-Differences or twist add up. also multi axis alignment is a sissiphus task, i tried that too. I makes no fun ;D
Very impressive, as always. Will wood hold up to all of this tweaking? I mean, will it be this accurate summer vs. winter in a shop without climate control?
Nice how you worked out the issues there. I would have taken the whole machine and burned it in a firepit at that point :) No ...but its an interesting machine that looks to make very nice joinery.
have you though about making one with metal/wood big parts and easy to make parts make with wood then sell otherstuff like template holder or guide out metal?
There's nothing quite like a good root cause analysis.
5 лет назад
Hi, your videos are serious! I would ask you because I will be making a copier soon. I don't see a version anywhere that is designed with the scanner on the back of the milling machine axis. So you could mill 1: 1, for example, if 10mm is the milling head, then 10mm is the scanner. And the template could be a 1: 1 pattern, do you think it's a good idea for me? Have a nice day.
Templates for the pantorouter have a slight angle built in so you can move the follower in or out, and thereby create a smaller or larger tenon to adjust overall fit.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
The videos that you make tweaking and adjusting, as well as those where you're addressing mistakes are some of the most valuable to me. They give insight to your troubleshooting process and mindset. Thank you for taking they extra time to shoot and edit these.
I know this is old but I wanted to tell you how much I have enjoyed your videos. I’m an old retired woodworker and I don’t do much these days. I had a furniture fabrication and restoration business for years. Bug my health forced me to retire. I just like watching your creative process. But I wanted your thoughts on a simple Electric potters wheel. I’m sure you could whip out a video on that in no time at all. Anyway I miss your videos. I hope this gets to you.
I have always admired the way you fine tune your machines and make them really accurate ! Awesome as always!
Yea, its amazing how he can troubleshoot all of his projects so easily :D - "This is 0.1 mm off"
That would be the result of his engineering background.
The skill is awesome!
There was a guy I used to know who had done machining for so long, and on the same set of tooling, that he could measure something freely with his thumb and one other finger (depending on the dimension), take it over to the machine, and mill it to within 1-2 THOU! (1/1000th") From his friggin' thumb!!!
Dustin Sparks wow, that is ridiculous!
畢業卡 diy
I forgot how brilliant and patient you are sir. Subscribed again.
Been following you since the early days and I sure appreciate your honesty. Clever isn't clever if it doesn't work. Now that's clever.
This guy has the patience of a saint!!! Job well done!
Entropy being a constant & major force in the life of all mass, starting w/ accuracy and designing tunability into any mechanism is of the utmost import !! Another great job Matthias :)Sincerely ............
Hi Mathias, just to tell you that you are inspiration and motivation for many people around the globe. Pls, do not pay attention to worthless comments. Many regards from Montenegro
On one hand it's very interesting to see and learn how you build your machines.
On the other it's just relaxing watching your videos :)
Greetings from Germany !
Its really nice that your ego is so well controlled that you never mind showing any errors that you might make as this is very helpful with our own troubleshooting!
People that don't make mistakes don't make anything else either.
That is a very intelligent video. The way you explain the way you process the errors make it a bit easier to understand.
Love your homemade tools! Tell you honestly, you inspired me to make few of them in my woodshop
More convinced than ever that i do not posess the patience and possibly the skills to attempt such an endeavor but i love to watch just the same
Nice video Mathias, quick and easy learning about clean and precise working. Follow your videos religiously. This is the best project next to the bandsaw so far. Thanks for sharing. Regards from a verry hot Germany, Robert
Your work is exceptional this is a side of engineering I’ve really admired
Matthias, you're like a kid with a new toy. What joy!
Hi Matthias. This is perhaps the most useful part of the as usually excellent series. Analysis and overcoming challenges. FYI there is a design technique using a split cotter for clamping a shaft that avoids subsequent 'wiggle'. Drill cross hole first. Insert cotter. Drill and ream shaft hole intersecting the cotter by about 30%. Remove cotter, drill axial hole through cotter, cut cotter into two cylindrical haves. The resultant fit on the shaft is very smooth and close and tightening a bolt through the two halves of the cotter locks the shaft securely. The cross hole of course has to be a nice fit on the cotter. There's probably a 'best' choice of woods to use, but that's much more your area of expertise than mine. Cheers. BobUK.
This is the part of the project that would drive me nuts if it was me. You're amazing man. Great work.
I'm just astounded!! You sir are a genius !! I'm not kidding I cant fathom how you do this and I'm watching the video 100x
Your attention to detail is amazing. Great work:)
I like these videos that show the troubleshooting and fixing process. Making stuff like this perfect first time seems impossible, it's a hand made machine and it's likely to need at least some tweaking and I think it's important to show people this.
I'd love to build one of these some time, looks like a really useful tool.
Matthias, you're a genius. Between this and your scientific approach to measuring things... you win. :)
Great vid! Love how you showed the trouble shooting you did. Pretty cool.
HELPS a lot.... I bought the extruded pantorouter years ago and could never get it to work right. It's been collecting dust! I could never get it to cut without it cutting the parts on an angle side to side. Even had a new template holder sent to me (although I built numerous blocks and level jigs to put the template on the template holder level to the table) I knew it wasn't in the template holder. I did find the store bought templates to be not very good, (might be improved now?) especially the slot which would run tight then loose across its width even using the store bought template follower. I measured every piece of aluminum extrusion and they were great, I couldn't figure it out and got very frustrated and put it out of site. Now I am inspired again and will check to make sure that all points line up to the router bit like you described in the video... hopefully this works! I bought early, when things were still being sorted out I think. Didn't want to cause too much trouble as I thought it was and is such a cool machine. Would very much like to get it working though, they are kind of expensive to have collect dust.
I would recommend watching this video and checking your pantorouter based on that.
@tableshaper
I want to recommend you to check the alignment of the router bit with the two pins of that link (that holds the router). If the bit axis is higher than the line connecting the two pins or is not exactly in the middle of the distance but closer to you, then will cut a slant upward as you move it away from you, and if the center of the router bit is lower or closer to the far pin, will cut a slant downward. This is checked by me on a pantorouter assembly project in solidworks, having all the components perfectly parallel.
Hope you will succeed debugging your machine.
@Matthias Wandell
I am building my own pantorouter, using your pantorouter XL video clips as an inspiration.
I have the same problem (slanted cuts) and now I am in the process of solving it.
Thank you for your time and work.
5:48 After all my views of your videos, I'm convinced you really do work this fast.
Great video! Thanks for showing all the troubleshooting and your thoughts, I learnt a lot.
I like the attention to detail. This seems like a very advanced project to me.
That jig is a very nice piece of work Matthias, you have a good brain sir!
Mach' bitte weiter so tolle Videos. Ist immer wieder eine Freude diese anzusehen.
I love your videos, they have inspired me to get my own woodworking area and tools. I have been woodworking since 9 or 10 and I'm 14 i have been making and selling things for my family and friends ( I also do a little bit of metal work). so thanks a lot for making great and inspiring videos for people like me, to learn and make. and after you do that could you try and make a drill press out of a hand drill and a motor
He's stated before that the forces and accuracy necessary to build a drill press, really require the kind of parts that can only commonly be found.....in an existing drill press. A wooden drill press wouldn't provide the results that would make it worth building. If you tried to buy the materials that would give a suitable result, it would cost more than a good basic drill press, let alone a good garage-sale drill press.
Hey Matthias, your videos are always interesting, and fun to watch. Those that complain about them not beeing as good anymore, are looking for the missing thing in their life, but they won't find it in anyone else's videos either. Unless they fix their problem, they'll never be totally happy with anything.
So don't worry about it, and don't let it get you down. :)
Thanks for all your videos, I know it's a lot of work.
I really like your debugging and solving sessions :D
This video is a good illustration of your point making v. buying. If you make, theres alot of personal fine tuning. Theres some fine tuning needed on the pantarouter you can buy, but its mostly out of the box ready to go.
Parabéns gosto muito do seu trabalho vc é uma inspiração para muitos de nós um forte abraço aqui do Brasil.
Great job again. Matthias Wandel
Dude you are wicked smart I love watching your videos
I love how he uses the exact same scene in 2:52 and 5:07 while cutting the mortise. (You can spot it by the bearing an the caliper on the pantorouter, the pliers behind it and the already cut mortise on the workpiece.)
it was either that or add a voiceover saying that my camera didn't record that part.
The slot for the mortises just blew my mind!
Great analysis of the slanting problem. You would make a GREAT machinist.
_(Replying to get notified when a brainwashed machinist replies to this comment)_
Hi Matthias , great working out , .. you hammer a nail with wood I've been doing it wrong all these years , keep up the good work ,G.
It's interesting to watch the work on the bugs. +
You are a master of your craft and engineering ideas love the vids you put up matthias
at the beginning of video I would have advised you to increase the diameter of the tracker's shaft but then I saw that in the new arm you have shortened the lever arm and therefore means that we had the same thought.
nice job Matthias!
I don't understand what you are referring to.
I had the impression that the diameter of the tracker's stem (the detail on the right at time 1:10) was too thin.
In addition, the hole in the pantograph handle was wide and therefore the accuracy suffered.
When you redone the new lever, you have reduced the distance between template and lever (6:17) thus reducing the flexibility, unwanted, and imagined by me, of the shaft.
I thought then that we had the same thought on the shaft
If I made the follower shafts thicker, then I wouldn't be able to use any of the followers I already made.
Like the wood colour combination.
"I was wiggling inside the slot and had way too much vibration." Another M W classic!
How are you not the lead engineer for a major machine company? You are brilliant.
As always..excellent. With all the necessary adjustments, please tell us how many "Man Hours" are involved in this build?
Nice work. That looked painful. I recently installed my workshop cabinets, on a very sloped floor. It took a very long time to level 3 independent cabinets over 12 feet, and in 2 planes. I thankfully used homemade levelling feet, made it much easier. Still took a long time.
Hello! In your projects I have seen that you use a very nice quality or materials. Like good plywood and woods. Can you, please, speak a little about them?
Nice - Amigo parabéns, você é ótimo 👏👏👏. Obrigado. É o cara. 👍
You are ingenious, sir.
Outstanding . . . one word that characterizes Matthias - persistent!
Absolutely brilliant
Awesome video and analysis. It does make me want to buy the prefabbed metal flavor you reviewed a year or 2 ago though.
In regards to the alignement of the guide to the table, putting a solid, smooth pin in the router would allow it to follow the table top and you could then measure alignment with a dial against the guide.
Enjoy your instructional videos. Maybe not closely related to this particular video, but have you ever done any experimenting with lubricating tools - e.g. router bits, during the machining of wood? A friend suggested Danish oil.
As for the follower shaft: why not use an inset thread with a through bore, and then mount the bearing on a piece of threaded rod? That way you don't need a locking mechanism (maybe some lucking nuts), you get better control over follower depth, and you minimize wiggle.
Amazing work
at 9:00 you could also have put a thin piece of wood near one of the black screw that hold the machine in place, which would have pushed the machine a little bit left or right.
but nice video :)
you are my inspiration for my future project ^^
Enjoying the build cheers
Would the lever handle be better if made of layers of plywood to reduce twisting with time? I have no need of this machine but still interesting to watch. You would have fit right in with the Wright brothers - always tinkering and experimenting.
I suspect that would make it worse. Plywood has half the grain pointing in the wrong direction, so it's inherently not as strong in this application.
I did not mean that the solid wood handle was not strong enough. I meant that the solid handle will be subject to warping and misalignment as it ages and with changes in humidity. Plywood has less tendency to twist with time.
Very cool machine! :-) Which camera do you use?
Que tal mathias e visto muchos de tus videos y me parecen muy buenos quiero preguntarte las pantorouters las vendes y cómo haría uno para comprartelas
There is no doubt that you are a "genius"... so... here you have a new subscriber. Your video is very interesting, you have chosen a very complicate machine to build by your own. Congratulations!!!..
I have two suggestion for you:
1.- Try a laser level to detect miss parallelism errors easily (a cheap laser level could cost less than 10$)
2.- Your audience could grow even more if you try to speak just a little slowly. Then those who do not speak english as mother tongue like me could understand you better.
Thanks for the video, i will wait for the next one.
5:48 How upsetting is it to have to make something again? I really admire your perseverance. Having to remake things always bugs the ever-loving heck out of me. I usually wait weeks or months until I do it.
nothing wrong with the old one. I built it again to get video of building one.
Matthias, I think he is meaning remaking the lever piece to replace the now less "clever" mechanism with that type you used in the other pantograph. (And not the pantograph rebuild for video documentation itself.)
Don Challenger Yes-that is it. I watch all Matthias’ videos, so I know why you were doing another pantarouter.
Would warpage be a problem if humidity was high or something?
С 2012 года я не пропустил ни одного видео, очень доходчиво.
I like how quickly you troubleshoot the problems, almost like you've done this before. On the card memory, is the a way to write an output from the video card to your pi? Then just have it set off warnings both visual and audible.
I have a quantitative question that could be resolved by a simple test. Take a 2x4, cross-cut it in half, and make a mortise on one cut end and a tenon on the other. When you stick the two pieces back together, how precisely are they aligned? Is the precision you're using now (ie, eyeballing and shimming the alignment of pins with a precision of a few tenths of a mm) good enough for your typical project? With your fingertip, you could feel a misalignment of a few thousandths of an inch. For fine woodworking, that's what you'd want to achieve. Is it possible (say with more precise measurements) - or would you have to machine the pantorouter in metal?
There are some parts of this that I would probably want to make out of a combination of metal and wood rather than just wood, just to make it easier to make them rigid and perhaps smaller/thinner. A question springs to mind as well; in making several of these have you experienced any problems due to wood changing shape after the build is complete? I know you mentioned building in some adjustability to allow for it, but has that shown itself to be necessary so far?
Also when cutting the parallel motion parts, would you consider clamping all the parts together and drilling the holes on a drill press? This would ensure that all four parts had identically placed holes at least. Is there a reason you know of for not doing that?
So I love that you make tools out of wood. But, as a RUclips collaboration, have you considered asking AvE to build your design to exact parameters? Scookum as frig...!
Matthias, starting to really come together. I just purchased the combo plans for the 6x48 and 1x42 belt sander. Got half of the 6x48 together today. Easy to follow. Are you going to upload and sell plans for the new pantorouter once its finished?
Ketna inc me katig or ketna inc me Hold
Matthias I have a CNC plasma table and would be able to make this from steel (I know heavy). But would be able to cut very accurately. Wondering if you can think of any issues I’d have to address with the design other than material thicknesses.
it needs to be light and stiff against twisting. Sheet metal is not an ideal material for that.
You my friend are an evil genius 👌🏼
4:13: Matthias does his best "dog after encounter with porcupine" imitation.
8:45 I never imagined he would do that!
Rather than making small adjustments to the pantograph assembly, would it be possible to tilt the table slightly to match the slight inaccuracies? Would that be easier? Could it cause problems later on with certain uses of the pantorouter?
Tilt is the most noticeable consequence of the inaccuracy, but not the only one. And it would make more sense to tilt the template.
+Matthias Wandel hi.. matthias can you do a transversal saw
Hi Matthias, where did you buy the spindle motor for your pantorouter
Terrific job again, Mr. Wizard!!!!!
OH, and I'm just wondering why some company has not yet snapped you up as a consultant...you would do your creations there in your shop, they could take apart, measure and patent and sell to smucks like all the rest of us. We would buy!!!! Or hey...you get a buddy to do so!@$!@#$!@#$! CONGRATS AS ALWAYS.
I think having it tighter on the sides of the mechanism pivot's would help by adding some washers, there's bound to be some twisting under Force
Plus you make your joints way too loose
I envy your wood supply - any time I want to build something, I have to go *buy* some wood.
Then you're going the wrong places to get wood.
6:13 I'll be storing that mechanism in my mental library. 😊
Close is good enough. That’s why I like metal work. Not machining, Not the kind of work that requires calipers, welding and forging. Meh, that looks good. Oh and I loved the drill and belt sander trick.
the thing is, wood is less accurate than machining, but more accurate than welding stuff, because it doesn't warp when you join things.
True. It doesn't move when you join them, it waits until after. lol
That was our company motto: Our work isn't just good, it's good enough.
skoockum + I walked into a fab shop where the sign said: "Where good enough isn't."
Can the pantorouter also be used as a horizontal router?
wood is a hell of a drug! ;)
i had similar problems, the first issue is wood is not a precise material in the first place.
If you want that you must use only hardwood/Multilayerwood AND mill all Dimenesions to your needs.
If you dont do that all that 0,1-2mm height/lenght/width-Differences or twist add up.
also multi axis alignment is a sissiphus task, i tried that too. I makes no fun ;D
Very impressive, as always. Will wood hold up to all of this tweaking? I mean, will it be this accurate summer vs. winter in a shop without climate control?
I worried about that building my CNC machine. Humidity here changes drastically summer to winter. If it is an issue I've never noticed it.
Could you please tell me, Matthias, which model of this cutter you use?
Nice how you worked out the issues there. I would have taken the whole machine and burned it in a firepit at that point :) No ...but its an interesting machine that looks to make very nice joinery.
Very good design. But I don't understand how you position the work piece.
Thanks for the video.
Do you plan on adding any springs or is the actuation easy enough to just lift and move the router around?
"If you can't make it perfect, at least make it adjustable." 3:22 @Jersmy Smidt
What happened to the pantograph being out of square? Is there a reason you don't use the glue and paper method to make identical parts?
I just chose not to this time. For rectangular parts, it's just as easy to just measure it.
have you though about making one with metal/wood big parts and easy to make parts make with wood then sell otherstuff like template holder or guide out metal?
I’ve got a headache! 😞. How much is a Festool Domino?
great video
There's nothing quite like a good root cause analysis.
Hi, your videos are serious!
I would ask you because I will be making a copier soon.
I don't see a version anywhere that is designed with the scanner on the back of the milling machine axis. So you could mill 1: 1, for example, if 10mm is the milling head, then 10mm is the scanner. And the template could be a 1: 1 pattern,
do you think it's a good idea for me?
Have a nice day.
You could put a hardwood dowel where the pin is loose, and redrill it.
I apologize for my ignorance, but why did you angle the band saw table when you were cutting the template?
to cut the edge at an angle.
Templates for the pantorouter have a slight angle built in so you can move the follower in or out, and thereby create a smaller or larger tenon to adjust overall fit.