Very good information. And you didn't talk about your car or mower or what you had for supper. Good job. BUT. I learned long ago, OL stands for Out of Limit. Not Over Load. Meaning too low or too high. Thanks for the helpful advice.
Hi, nice video. Question: I have type K termocouple which is Exhaust Gas Temperature sensor on my lexus sc400. Now when I drive a car for a while I get a warning that exhaust gas is too hot but I believe it is not true as catalytic converters are not glowing red. Can this 25 year old termocouple be partially not working so it thinks gas is too hot when gas is not too hot? Thanks
Very helpful, can you plz show the procedure of how to know the exact temperature from the millivolt generated by the thermocouple, it will be really helpful. Thank you
Hi there! Thanks for watching. You will need a multimeter that has a resolution of at least 0.001 millivolts to read the thermocouple voltage signal. Then you can use the Thermocouple Reference Table in this link www.omega.com/en-us/resources/thermocouple-types to find the temperature value according to the correct calibration type (i.e Type K,J,T,E,etc.)
you all probably dont give a damn but does any of you know a way to log back into an instagram account? I was dumb lost the password. I would appreciate any tricks you can give me.
@Titus Ronin i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and Im trying it out atm. Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Hello! Thanks for watching!! You can contact one of our temperature engineering experts who will be glad to answer your question. Please email: temperature@dwyeromega.com
I have 3 k type thermo probe two have reading 15 ohm's ( oven temperature reading available 200 -250 celcius) ans one has 6 ohm's ( which measures boiler temperature 70-80 celcius) please tell me boiler probe is ok or not.
Hello Kayode, You can check the millivolt reading and match it up to the current temperature of the thermocouple. You can use this link, search for the Thermocouple Reference Tables as reference.
Hi ramirez509, A thermocouple can start to oscillate from negative to positive if there is an unstable EMI/RFI signal being picked by the T/C or a poor electrical connection to your end device that receives the T/C signal.
Is reading resistance on a thermocouple truly the proper way to test it? I agree with testing for continuity to determine if there's an open loop but just because a low resistance is seen doesn't necessarily determine that the thermocouple is functioning properly. Wouldn't it be a better test to measure mV DC and compare the mV value seen against a reference chart for that type of thermocouple??? Resistance measurement would be appropriate for a RTD temperature probes.
Thanks for reaching out! When measuring resistance across the grounded thermocouple body and the positive lead ‘+VE’, you will read a resistance value. If you read ‘-OL’, then you have a damaged grounded probe.
Hello Javier, Thermocouples produce low voltage less than zero, millivolts. The best way to get your PLC to read one is to use a Thermocouple Amplifier to increase the voltage output so your PLC can read it.
Great Video! I am baffled by a thermocouple I am testing. It is meant to raise a voltage of >20mV to power a solenoid. So I isolated the TC and heated the tip. I got a fluctuating voltage from negative 12 to eventually settling on 25-30mV. Thought that was good enough and connected it to the solenoid. Solenoid did not work. I connected the solenoid to a discharged 1.5 v battery and it worked beautifully (admittedly with a current of 350mA). Then I tested the resistance of the TC as you suggested and sure enough, it has a resistance in the MegaOhm range which meant it is probably roasted!. What I cannot understand is why, if it is faulty, it still has a good mV output? Most videos on testing TCs test only the mV not the Ohms. Hopefully someone can shine some light...
Thank you so much OMEGA ENGINEERING HERE IS MY SOLUTION: FIX THE FAULTY THERMOCOUPLE: Just about all thermocouple fault finding videos test the mV across the terminals of the TC. Fortunately I came across your video. You must test BOTH mV and Ohms. My TC gave an excellent mV reading but did not work. As you say here you must test the resistance across the terminals (as well as the mV). So here is a FIX that may help many readers out there. I grabbed the tip of the thermocouple with a pair of pliers and the tip snapped off! EXCELLENT sign! It had badly oxidised inside and became brittle (hence the high resistance). This is the part where the two metals are welded together(copper or copper nickel). So I removed the inner wire and cleaned it. I also used a small drill point to clean out the inside of the outside sleeve. Now I could have reinserted the inner steel wire and crimped the tip. This would work as a temporary fix to get you out of trouble. I chose to fix it permanently. I welded the inner steel wire and outer sleeve with a brazing rod 15% Ag. It is easy to do with an inexpensive MAP gas torch (if you don't have Oxy-acetylene torch). Solder is not suitable because of it's low melting point. A spot welder or, if you are handy, a stick welder can be used to weld the two metals. Always perform safety tests on the gas heater after fixing the TC. The TC must close the gas supply when the flame does not constantly burn over the TC head. This fix will slightly shorten the length of the TC. Make sure it is adequately heated by the pilot flame by adjusting it's position if necessary. In my case it wasn't necessary and the nearly 40 year old gas heater is as good as new.
![ARGENTINA vs. CHILE [3-0] | RESUMEN | ELIMINATORIAS SUDAMERICANAS | FECHA 7](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/De3AWmXzhuA/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video boss,respect from Turkiye 🇹🇷
Very good information. And you didn't talk about your car or mower or what you had for supper. Good job. BUT. I learned long ago, OL stands for Out of Limit. Not Over Load. Meaning too low or too high. Thanks for the helpful advice.
Thanks for catching that Mike!
This answered so many unasked questions. Thanks dude.
Awesome Cesar! Glad it helped!
Thanks for the help! Diagnosis confirmed, thermocouple wires at the tip were desoldered!
O.L stands for Open Load
Grent job of explaining this concisely. thanks.
Excelent explanation. Thankyou
Hi, nice video. Question: I have type K termocouple which is Exhaust Gas Temperature sensor on my lexus sc400. Now when I drive a car for a while I get a warning that exhaust gas is too hot but I believe it is not true as catalytic converters are not glowing red. Can this 25 year old termocouple be partially not working so it thinks gas is too hot when gas is not too hot? Thanks
This is my first time seeing you video, I subscribed
Very helpful, can you plz show the procedure of how to know the exact temperature from the millivolt generated by the thermocouple, it will be really helpful. Thank you
Hi there! Thanks for watching. You will need a multimeter that has a resolution of at least 0.001 millivolts to read the thermocouple voltage signal. Then you can use the Thermocouple Reference Table in this link www.omega.com/en-us/resources/thermocouple-types to find the temperature value according to the correct calibration type (i.e Type K,J,T,E,etc.)
you all probably dont give a damn but does any of you know a way to log back into an instagram account?
I was dumb lost the password. I would appreciate any tricks you can give me.
@Yosef Brecken instablaster :)
@Titus Ronin i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and Im trying it out atm.
Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Titus Ronin it worked and I actually got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thanks so much, you really help me out !
Sir thermocouple checking in mv but yours checking in ohms why?
Very helpful video brother! You have my like/sub from Philippines.
Hi there, what is the meaning of grounded/ungrounded?. thx for these useful videos
Hi Jan, Good question - it just so happens we have another video on that topic here: ruclips.net/video/qQzh-qeKSzw/видео.html
@@DwyerOmega Thx friend, my doubt has been resolved. Keep it up!
How to calibrate or check thermocouple while using it above 1000 deg Celsius,is mv reading a good option .please advise
Hello! Thanks for watching!! You can contact one of our temperature engineering experts who will be glad to answer your question. Please email: temperature@dwyeromega.com
Thanks
I have 3 k type thermo probe two have reading 15 ohm's ( oven temperature reading available 200 -250 celcius) ans one has 6 ohm's ( which measures boiler temperature 70-80 celcius) please tell me boiler probe is ok or not.
hi i have no wires on my flame detection thermocoupler on my carver 1800 caravan gas heater how do i test it? cheers
Hello, how do I test the thermocouple from it voltage reading?
Hello Kayode, You can check the millivolt reading and match it up to the current temperature of the thermocouple. You can use this link, search for the Thermocouple Reference Tables as reference.
I'm trying to measure negative Temperature using max6675k thermocouple any ideas
What would cause a TC to osculate from positive to negative reading?
Hi ramirez509, A thermocouple can start to oscillate from negative to positive if there is an unstable EMI/RFI signal being picked by the T/C or a poor electrical connection to your end device that receives the T/C signal.
@@DwyerOmega the TC board has for inputs, but using one. It's been program d for one.
Is reading resistance on a thermocouple truly the proper way to test it? I agree with testing for continuity to determine if there's an open loop but just because a low resistance is seen doesn't necessarily determine that the thermocouple is functioning properly. Wouldn't it be a better test to measure mV DC and compare the mV value seen against a reference chart for that type of thermocouple???
Resistance measurement would be appropriate for a RTD temperature probes.
Hello bro, how much is the maximum resistance for continuity?. Do you have a tolerance table for it?. Thank you so much.
excellent, well presented
thnx
Hi bro, I need the value of grounded thermocouple's "+ve" terminals to shield/body.Is it O.L. or some resistance ? I need your valuable reply, thanks.
Thanks for reaching out! When measuring resistance across the grounded thermocouple body and the positive lead ‘+VE’, you will read a resistance value. If you read ‘-OL’, then you have a damaged grounded probe.
How to find thermocouple negative and positive wires
O.L doesn’t mean over load it means OPEN LOOP !!
OL is better called open loop then overload! its not that it is overloaded the ol means that there is a open loop therefore infinite resistance
You have totally failed to even mention the thermocouple setting that most multimeters have, including the one used in the video. Bruh.
Hello,
My thermocouple is at 6.8 ohms, is it still working ??
Hello Tri,
The fact you are reading a LOW ohm value is a good sign that your thermocouple is still working.
I have a thermocuple and I connected it to a PLC. Why cannot it read voltage? Always show me 0 volts?
Hello Javier, Thermocouples produce low voltage less than zero, millivolts. The best way to get your PLC to read one is to use a Thermocouple Amplifier to increase the voltage output so your PLC can read it.
if it's a bad thermocouple my meter reads SOL
Nice stuff
How to test for separate type K or J
Great Video! I am baffled by a thermocouple I am testing. It is meant to raise a voltage of >20mV to power a solenoid. So I isolated the TC and heated the tip. I got a fluctuating voltage from negative 12 to eventually settling on 25-30mV. Thought that was good enough and connected it to the solenoid. Solenoid did not work. I connected the solenoid to a discharged 1.5 v battery and it worked beautifully (admittedly with a current of 350mA). Then I tested the resistance of the TC as you suggested and sure enough, it has a resistance in the MegaOhm range which meant it is probably roasted!. What I cannot understand is why, if it is faulty, it still has a good mV output? Most videos on testing TCs test only the mV not the Ohms. Hopefully someone can shine some light...
Hey, we're here to help. Shoot an email to tsoares@omega.com with the best way to reach you. We can grab an engineer to help you out!
@@DwyerOmega Unfortunately I am quite a few thousands of miles away.
@@redpost2380 We help people all over the world, if any questions can be solved over email, we're here to help. Thanks!
Thank you so much OMEGA ENGINEERING
HERE IS MY SOLUTION: FIX THE FAULTY THERMOCOUPLE: Just about all thermocouple fault finding videos test the mV across the terminals of the TC. Fortunately I came across your video. You must test BOTH mV and Ohms.
My TC gave an excellent mV reading but did not work. As you say here you must test the resistance across the terminals (as well as the mV).
So here is a FIX that may help many readers out there.
I grabbed the tip of the thermocouple with a pair of pliers and the tip snapped off! EXCELLENT sign! It had badly oxidised inside and became brittle (hence the high resistance). This is the part where the two metals are welded together(copper or copper nickel). So I removed the inner wire and cleaned it. I also used a small drill point to clean out the inside of the outside sleeve. Now I could have reinserted the inner steel wire and crimped the tip. This would work as a temporary fix to get you out of trouble. I chose to fix it permanently. I welded the inner steel wire and outer sleeve with a brazing rod 15% Ag. It is easy to do with an inexpensive MAP gas torch (if you don't have Oxy-acetylene torch). Solder is not suitable because of it's low melting point. A spot welder or, if you are handy, a stick welder can be used to weld the two metals. Always perform safety tests on the gas heater after fixing the TC. The TC must close the gas supply when the flame does not constantly burn over the TC head. This fix will slightly shorten the length of the TC. Make sure it is adequately heated by the pilot flame by adjusting it's position if necessary. In my case it wasn't necessary and the nearly 40 year old gas heater is as good as new.
I thought OL meant Opened Loop. Nice vid though.
"OL" means over limits not over load according to the manual
Sir OL stands for Open Loop, not Over Load.
[O]ut of [L]uck
OL on an ohms measurement stands for over limit not overload. Just FYI.
No it stands for Open Loop. just FYI
@@mysteriousmaskedman2397 I stand corrected. Thank you!
O.L. Is overload?? Are you serious?? So, with the leads disconnected, the meter reads overload?? Perhaps Open Line is a better term for O.L.
open loop
OL stands for open lead
OL is open line
nonsense 😊