Wow this is the exact same bike I had, my second used bike, same color and everything. I loved my old KZ650, this is a nice example, thanks for posting this.
These 2 videos may be lacking slightly in picture and audio quality at times, but its because of these two videos that I'm now subscribed and looking forward to watching all of them. I have a kz650sr that I'm working on now and I'm sure if I follow your instructions I'll have it running like a top in no time at all. Thank you for the videos
Yeah. I did buy what was supposed to be the perfect DSLR camera but after a while it wouldn't hold focus...that's 'cos it isn't a true video camera apparently. Also bought a GoPro which is great for picture but the sound quality is poor if I'm more than 5 feet away ...so I use a mix of iPhone, and Gopro. I'll buy a vid camera if I can find one that's not too expensive and comes reasonably recommended. I have a tidy 650 SR I bought as a non-runner which I'll be doing some vids on soon -it as NO compression so that should be interesting as you NEVER lose all the compressions at once so I suspect someone's been in there and screwed it up. Thanks for watching and good luck with your 650 Michael. Best, Rod
Did my Z500 ones the same way Rod. I did level the carbs up and clamp them in my Black and Decker workmate made life a lot easier. In the fuel level section of the manual it gives 2 specs. The Design Measurement is, from what I can gather is the distance from the centreline of the carb bore to the fuel level in the bowl. The Service Level is the distance down from the carb body casting to the fuel level in the bowl. The Z500 Design Measurement is 29.5mm +/- 1mm and the Service level is 3.5mm +/- 1mm. As you say the fuel level is critical to get right first. Last year I renewed the manifold rubbers as well as the carb to airbox rubbers, they were getting almost solid and cracking. The Z650 shares the same carb to airbox rubbers as the Z400J/Z500/550 twin shock models.and are easy to find online. One thing i also do is to link up all the pipes from the gauges to ONE Vacuum source to see any discrepancy in the gauges and note it down. Constantly amazes me the condition of these American imports and how little mileage that have done. My Z has done over 80000 miles and must get a few more videos put together form stills covering all the work i did refreshing it.
Hi Rob. I always do a comparison by swapping the vac line from one to another carb and ensuring the reading stays constant. Regarding miles the lowest I ever bought was a '78 Kz650 I intended to keep ..at 540 miles from new. Foolishly sold it when I got a great offer on it- but have a really nice B2 now that you';ll see on a couple of the vids. Thanks for your comment. and hope you keep watching-I'll be doing other Kawasaki vids soon.
nice bike in the end! will have to watch this again soon as i have had one in the shed since 2016 while i lay up recouping from liver disease, once i sort myself out ill be on to the bikes i have accumulated, 3 x s2 kawas, 1 x z650 (1977), 1 x rd400 (1978), 1 x VOR503 (2001), 1 x WR450f (2004), 1 x kd80 (1986) 1 x XL185 (1981). I bought them all before all the silliness started very cheap! ill hang on to a few, but will sell the rest. thanks for your Videos they are great.
Thanks for the message and the kind words. You have a great collection. I've always fancied a WR 450 but not sure if my cojones are big enough though I have a KTM 690 and rode across Russia/Mongolia and Kazakhstan a few years ago. The 690 is a brilliant bike. I haven't had a S2 yet though I had an H1 last year. Nice bike that has a killer reputation it probably doesn't deserve. The throttle works both ways...on AND off . :0).The bike isn't to blame if the rider thinks he's bulletproof and invisible. :0) Get that 650 sorted! They're a brilliant bike. Thanks again for your comments
Very useful. Thanks. I just ordered a Delkevic 4-1 system and need to re-jet. Obviously I'll be doing the floats and balancing. I didn't know you couldn't measure the float heights. I ordered the tube you used from ebay, after watching your video. Thanks again for the info.
Thanks for the comment. Sorry if it's repetitive working through the carbs until I get the level right...but that's just how it is, and its pointless starting it unless I'm going to persevere, but once done, the bike flies. Hope you enjoy the vids.
Great video Rod, will be very handy as i've bought a Chopper based on a KZ650, starts and runs fine, it's very healthy and well built but has a bit of a flat spot, has four "pod" type air filters and custom exhausts (with small baffles), i suspect the carbs may not have been re-jetted for the filters and exhaust so going to whip them off and check the sizes. Subbed as your other vids look great so will be watching them too.
Thanks for that and glad you enjoyed the vid. They're great bikes and easy to work on. Fuel tap can be a PITA and lead to leaky carbs but there's a guy selling good copies on Ebay for £40-ish. Personally hate pod filters and always put them back to stock...they seem to go better. Thanks for watching, rod
Nice work Rod.. I've been looking for the right kz650 for a while.. and its these kind of maintenance issues which worry me.. I'm not great with mechanics.. very proficient at most wet trades bricklaying /plastering/tiling as I fit stoves .. but engines do worry me.. I would need to find either a decent garage workshop who could do this kind of work.. or a guy local to me who wouldn't mind doing private maintenance jobs.. I'm willing to pay a trustworthy guy the right money.. but learning the skills you have would be worrying.. so I'm wondering whether I should put my love of these bikes to one side and get a trouble free newer bike.. but I just don't have the same love for new bikes as I do for the styling of the 70's 650 and 1000 kawasakis.. power wise the 650 is plenty for me.. I used to have a CB650z 30 years ago.. and would like some nice wheels to enjoy some free time with. Its awe inspiring to see vids like this.. and also scary to see the knowledge needed to make a great job.
Hi there. Thanks for your kind comments. The Z/Kz650s are utterly bulletproof mechanically. They took more and more horsepower out of that bottom end without any mods or subsequent problems. The carbs can be pretty much left alone once set up correctly and the rest is really easy to manage. Truly. GET ONE. Its the best middleweight of the 70s. In my opinion (and that of more and more) a better bike overall than the CB750 or the Z1, prettier then both, easier to ride than either and definitely a better investment. I've had everything ( Z1s Cb750s, CBX..on and on) and have a '78 Z650 of my own and love it. Mail me on rodcurrie88@gmail.com and if you want one I'll help get you one.
@@rodcurrieclassics8102 Thanks Rod.. have my eye on one on ebay at the moment..in the silver.. they are a great bike.. and I can't take my eye off them .. thanks for the positive 👍👍
@@rodcurrieclassics8102 Just a quickie Rod.. do you think there is a big loss with the american KZ's smaller carbs.. you see SR's at 60bhp to some standard trim at 64/66bhp.. there are so many variations on a theme from different years..
The SR had one or two less BHP than the "normal" Kz650 as I remember but frankly I can't see it making a jot of difference unless you're tearing round wringing its neck all the time....and most of us don't buy classics for that. All the SRs I've seen were Japanese builds but I couldn't swear to that across the board. Most of the Kz650s ( but not the Cs) were built in their factory in Lincoln, Nebraska and the quality is just as good as the Japanese builds. They're all brilliant. SRs can be had a little cheaper right now but who knows if that will continue to be the case. Good luck in the hunt.
@@dnt5volvo I have a 79 Kz 650 SR with low miles that runs but needs the carbs tuned in. I would be in the market to sell it. I live in the western part of Nebraska. Email me if interested. Has a one year old paint job, brand new tires, new fork seals & brakes all around.
Hi there Rob lovely video and hopefully a great help as I've just purchased a nice kz650 b3 but she's over fuelling on 2 so I have a look on here and find you vid then think I've seen that name b4 get the paperwork out for the bike and you registered it in the UK it's a lovely bike ... thought you may like to know it's now found it's way to the west Midlands 👍🏻
Hi there. Thanks for watching and your kind comment and maybe your Mom can have a listen sometime and get a "fix' of the Old Country. Been all over the world on bikes ( Russia, Africa, Kazakhstan, Mongolia, the US, but haven't made it to Canada beyond Roosville on the US/Canada border, when I did the Continental Divide ride a few years ago. I must get over there. Thanks again and say hello to your Mom. Lang may yer lum reek o' some other bodies coal!
Hi Mark. On this model of carb the mixture screws are underneath and kind of centre front of the carb body. A long "screwdriver" tool with a right angle tip is needed to adjust the carbs in turn. I have that tool but the fiddling to locate it onto the screw, to keep my now required glasses on whist my head is upside down and I'm peering under the carb bank so to do, and then to adjust each in turn renders such an appalling attack of cursing that you'd think I have Tourette's ...so probably inappropriate for RUclips unless I want to be banned. Although I did adjust them after I turned off the camera, I may need to leave that demonstration to someone with a less mercurial temperament. In short - I maybe need to grow up
Hi Peter. Thanks for the question. I think (?) I have done that on the other carbs vid... The mixture at any speed above a fast idle is governed by the fuel level but getting the slow running right is something I'll cover in a special shorty if that helps.
Hi Daryl. Thanks for your kind comments. I've had it years but might be able too find where I got it. I'll have a look. Thanks flor watching. Best, Rod
Thanks for taking the time to make these videos. I have a 78 B1 purchased from new that I've just completed a full restoration, now down to setting the carbs I find it's running smooth above 3000 rpm, but rough below. So I'm in the area of checking float heights, pilot jets, air screws, etc. My questions are: 1) how critical is the float height? I think the service manual indicate +/- 3mm 2) does leaving the rubbers off the box/carb inlet have any effect when balancing the carbs?
Hi Eamonn. Assuming you've already set the idle mixtures, Pilot jets are definitely the place to start. The pilot jets and air screws (idle mixture screws) control low speed running and after say 2000rpm the fuel levels will control the mixture, so float height is VERY important overall. 3mm is about an eight of an inch. If you're setting the heights with a vernier or a rule, measured from the carb face that the float bowl sits against, with no gasket you need to be 25-26mm to the top of the float. If you're using a level pipe you need the level to be 3mm +- maybe a mil below the face. Once you've done that you can refit ands balance the carbs. I suspect you'll find they're quite a way out so get them even running at 2000rpm, then slow the bike down to 1000rpm and adjust the idle mixtures starting with a rough setting on maybe a full turn out, then screw then out say another turn and screw them in until the engine starts to falter on that cylinder...then screw carefully back out so that one is running just rich enough to be smooth..if you go too far richening you can just do it again. It should be lovely then. good luckand thanks for watching , Rod
If I ever set them as a first go ( I'd often do this in case they need to come off again) with the rubbers off I'd check again once the airbox is connected through, but they'll not have altered much. Always good to check though
Hi Rod. Great video & info thanks. Any idea where I can buy a rebuild kit for my vacuum petcock? I have a 1978 KZ 650 C2. Even a manual petcock if you know one that will fit? It’s 44mm between mounting bolts. God Bless. Jim
Hi Jim. The rebuild kits are alas bl**dy awful and NEVER work...the carbs will still leak. Manual petcock would be a result but a good one ( the name eludes me for a minute) but I'll write back is about £150. A guy is selling good replacement vacuum petcocks for about 40-45 quid and I've tried 2 of them and they've both been good.Let me find the ad and I'll post the URL
Hi Rod. Thanks for the response. Your a good Man taking time for all of us! Pingel is pricey. If ya find the vacuum site let me know. I may buy an adapter plate & 3/8” NPT petcock. Any thoughts? Blessings, Jim
Hi Graham. I found it on Ebay. I'll dig out the invoice. B1 will be a lovely bike when its done. I bought a 540 mile (for just 1100 Pounds!!) example a few years ago and decided to keep it.... Then I stupidly sold it when it had just shy of 1000 miles on it as I got a great offer. Should have kept it as I'll never find another .
@@rodcurrieclassics8102 cheers Rod - been on my bucket list for some time….got it from Tenerife for £1500 running about 18 months ago but needs a bit more work including a respray and a decent seat which are like hen’s teeth
Seat very hard to come by but look up "Giulari replica seat" on Ebay. "Bob the Seat" does them for 200 quid and they look great on the bike ..I even have one on my own 650
Hi Rod. I’m having some difficulty with float height. I’ve followed your video which is very informative, thank you. I’m a bit lost with the location of the 3mm making on the face of the bowl. When I measure mine it’s a lot higher then that shown on yours. I’m measuring from where the body and the bowl join. Should there be a difference?
Hi warren. what's the issue..are the carbs leaking...or just is it running badly...you don't say ? You mention the marking on the float bowl..when you say yours is higher...do you mean the fuel level is higher than the mark or the mark is in a different location to mine on the vid??
Hi Rod. I guess what my problem is I’m not sure where you take your measurement from on the carb. Is it from the very bottom of the carb or from where the gasket is seated. I take it from the gasket level which means my level mark is just below the very edge of the carb. When I set my float using the clear tube to float bowl I end up with a very rich running engine. I hope this explains my question.
Hi Spencer. a) I'm assuming you've taken the carb drain plug out so you know there's fuel in the carb:...if not do that first and if there's no fuel the needle valve is stuck closed. Sorted. b) But.....If its not firing at idle suggest the idle jet is the wrong one, or blocked. Carbs off and compare the jet to its pals and that its clear. c) If its not firing at all no matter the engine speed or load and you have compression etc: squirt some brake cleaner, engine starter or WD40...basically anything combustible into the No 3 carb mouth with the engine running at a fast idle. if the engine picks up you know that carb is not fuelling. Carbs off and check needle valve is opening/closing freely, whets and emulsion tubes out and see if the emulsion tubes little holes are blocked or you have a blocked jet. if none of that works Email me and we can have a chat.rodcurrie88@gmail.com. Good luck .
@@rodcurrieclassics8102 one of the things people miss out when overhauling these carbs is the seal on the end of the choke plungers. if they're not sealing the bike wont run right, you cant get new plungers or seals,but there is a chap on fleabay that fits new viton sals in them.
Hi there. It's my first time round the block with a BMW so thanks for that and thanks for watching. I hope you'll see this one fire up next week. Best, Rod
The float bowls are he same size of course, and the main jets need to be sitting in the same depth of petrol/gasoline so that the mixtures of air/fuel are the same and each cylinder will fire uniformly with its buddies.
God, yes. If you try to give it a squirt before it's FULLY warmed through it'll just hiccup and cough until you give it some choke. Those little pistons have a BIG lump of metal to warm up. Still one of my favourite bikes. Maybe it is my favourite. Everything else that came afterwards followed this template. Thanks for watching
![Ice On My Teeth - ATEEZ エイティーズ 에이티즈 [Music Bank] | KBS WORLD TV 241115](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/c-n92OgbbwA/mqdefault.jpg)
Wow this is the exact same bike I had, my second used bike, same color and everything. I loved my old KZ650, this is a nice example, thanks for posting this.
Thanks billy. Yes, the Kz 650s were brilliant bikes. Thanks for watching. Rod
These 2 videos may be lacking slightly in picture and audio quality at times, but its because of these two videos that I'm now subscribed and looking forward to watching all of them. I have a kz650sr that I'm working on now and I'm sure if I follow your instructions I'll have it running like a top in no time at all. Thank you for the videos
Yeah. I did buy what was supposed to be the perfect DSLR camera but after a while it wouldn't hold focus...that's 'cos it isn't a true video camera apparently. Also bought a GoPro which is great for picture but the sound quality is poor if I'm more than 5 feet away ...so I use a mix of iPhone, and Gopro. I'll buy a vid camera if I can find one that's not too expensive and comes reasonably recommended.
I have a tidy 650 SR I bought as a non-runner which I'll be doing some vids on soon -it as NO compression so that should be interesting as you NEVER lose all the compressions at once so I suspect someone's been in there and screwed it up. Thanks for watching and good luck with your 650 Michael. Best, Rod
Did my Z500 ones the same way Rod. I did level the carbs up and clamp them in my Black and Decker workmate made life a lot easier. In the fuel level section of the manual it gives 2 specs. The Design Measurement is, from what I can gather is the distance from the centreline of the carb bore to the fuel level in the bowl. The Service Level is the distance down from the carb body casting to the fuel level in the bowl. The Z500 Design Measurement is 29.5mm +/- 1mm and the Service level is 3.5mm +/- 1mm. As you say the fuel level is critical to get right first. Last year I renewed the manifold rubbers as well as the carb to airbox rubbers, they were getting almost solid and cracking. The Z650 shares the same carb to airbox rubbers as the Z400J/Z500/550 twin shock models.and are easy to find online. One thing i also do is to link up all the pipes from the gauges to ONE Vacuum source to see any discrepancy in the gauges and note it down. Constantly amazes me the condition of these American imports and how little mileage that have done. My Z has done over 80000 miles and must get a few more videos put together form stills covering all the work i did refreshing it.
Hi Rob. I always do a comparison by swapping the vac line from one to another carb and ensuring the reading stays constant.
Regarding miles the lowest I ever bought was a '78 Kz650 I intended to keep ..at 540 miles from new. Foolishly sold it when I got a great offer on it- but have a really nice B2 now that you';ll see on a couple of the vids. Thanks for your comment. and hope you keep watching-I'll be doing other Kawasaki vids soon.
nice bike in the end! will have to watch this again soon as i have had one in the shed since 2016 while i lay up recouping from liver disease, once i sort myself out ill be on to the bikes i have accumulated, 3 x s2 kawas, 1 x z650 (1977), 1 x rd400 (1978), 1 x VOR503 (2001), 1 x WR450f (2004), 1 x kd80 (1986) 1 x XL185 (1981). I bought them all before all the silliness started very cheap! ill hang on to a few, but will sell the rest. thanks for your Videos they are great.
Thanks for the message and the kind words. You have a great collection. I've always fancied a WR 450 but not sure if my cojones are big enough though I have a KTM 690 and rode across Russia/Mongolia and Kazakhstan a few years ago. The 690 is a brilliant bike.
I haven't had a S2 yet though I had an H1 last year. Nice bike that has a killer reputation it probably doesn't deserve. The throttle works both ways...on AND off . :0).The bike isn't to blame if the rider thinks he's bulletproof and invisible. :0)
Get that 650 sorted! They're a brilliant bike. Thanks again for your comments
Very useful. Thanks. I just ordered a Delkevic 4-1 system and need to re-jet. Obviously I'll be doing the floats and balancing. I didn't know you couldn't measure the float heights. I ordered the tube you used from ebay, after watching your video.
Thanks again for the info.
Setting the float height using the tube is tedious, but you'll get the result. Thanks for watching
@@rodcurrieclassics8102 Thanks.
Good video, I normally set my floats at 23 to 24mm from the carb face to the floa top,, too high of level will make it rich, too low, lean.
Thanks for the comment. Sorry if it's repetitive working through the carbs until I get the level right...but that's just how it is, and its pointless starting it unless I'm going to persevere, but once done, the bike flies. Hope you enjoy the vids.
Great video Rod, will be very handy as i've bought a Chopper based on a KZ650, starts and runs fine, it's very healthy and well built but has a bit of a flat spot, has four "pod" type air filters and custom exhausts (with small baffles), i suspect the carbs may not have been re-jetted for the filters and exhaust so going to whip them off and check the sizes. Subbed as your other vids look great so will be watching them too.
Thanks for that and glad you enjoyed the vid. They're great bikes and easy to work on. Fuel tap can be a PITA and lead to leaky carbs but there's a guy selling good copies on Ebay for £40-ish.
Personally hate pod filters and always put them back to stock...they seem to go better. Thanks for watching, rod
thanks I have my dads 1978 KZ 650 that I restored. waiting on gauges to dial the carbs in.
Hi William. Great hat you've restored your dad's bike. Good luck with the carbs
Nice work Rod.. I've been looking for the right kz650 for a while.. and its these kind of maintenance issues which worry me.. I'm not great with mechanics.. very proficient at most wet trades bricklaying /plastering/tiling as I fit stoves .. but engines do worry me.. I would need to find either a decent garage workshop who could do this kind of work.. or a guy local to me who wouldn't mind doing private maintenance jobs.. I'm willing to pay a trustworthy guy the right money.. but learning the skills you have would be worrying.. so I'm wondering whether I should put my love of these bikes to one side and get a trouble free newer bike.. but I just don't have the same love for new bikes as I do for the styling of the 70's 650 and 1000 kawasakis.. power wise the 650 is plenty for me.. I used to have a CB650z 30 years ago.. and would like some nice wheels to enjoy some free time with. Its awe inspiring to see vids like this.. and also scary to see the knowledge needed to make a great job.
Hi there. Thanks for your kind comments. The Z/Kz650s are utterly bulletproof mechanically. They took more and more horsepower out of that bottom end without any mods or subsequent problems. The carbs can be pretty much left alone once set up correctly and the rest is really easy to manage. Truly. GET ONE. Its the best middleweight of the 70s.
In my opinion (and that of more and more) a better bike overall than the CB750 or the Z1, prettier then both, easier to ride than either and definitely a better investment. I've had everything ( Z1s Cb750s, CBX..on and on) and have a '78 Z650 of my own and love it.
Mail me on rodcurrie88@gmail.com and if you want one I'll help get you one.
@@rodcurrieclassics8102 Thanks Rod.. have my eye on one on ebay at the moment..in the silver.. they are a great bike.. and I can't take my eye off them .. thanks for the positive 👍👍
@@rodcurrieclassics8102 Just a quickie Rod.. do you think there is a big loss with the american KZ's smaller carbs.. you see SR's at 60bhp to some standard trim at 64/66bhp.. there are so many variations on a theme from different years..
The SR had one or two less BHP than the "normal" Kz650 as I remember but frankly I can't see it making a jot of difference unless you're tearing round wringing its neck all the time....and most of us don't buy classics for that.
All the SRs I've seen were Japanese builds but I couldn't swear to that across the board. Most of the Kz650s ( but not the Cs) were built in their factory in Lincoln, Nebraska and the quality is just as good as the Japanese builds. They're all brilliant. SRs can be had a little cheaper right now but who knows if that will continue to be the case. Good luck in the hunt.
@@dnt5volvo I have a 79 Kz 650 SR with low miles that runs but needs the carbs tuned in. I would be in the market to sell it. I live in the western part of Nebraska. Email me if interested. Has a one year old paint job, brand new tires, new fork seals & brakes all around.
Hi Rod ,was doing mine today , mine also number 1 inlet manifold leaking but its new so hoping a bit of silicone on the mating faces will sort it
Good luck and thanks for watching .
Hi there Rob lovely video and hopefully a great help as I've just purchased a nice kz650 b3 but she's over fuelling on 2 so I have a look on here and find you vid then think I've seen that name b4 get the paperwork out for the bike and you registered it in the UK it's a lovely bike ... thought you may like to know it's now found it's way to the west Midlands 👍🏻
Hi Ian. Thanks for watching . Whats the registration of the bike? .I've had maybe 4 B3s in the past 3 years so I'll recognise the bike.
Is it one you got from Marc Earle in Kent? He's had several from me across the years.
Great video !! Greetings from Winnipeg ! And my mom is from Beith !
Hi there. Thanks for watching and your kind comment and maybe your Mom can have a listen sometime and get a "fix' of the Old Country. Been all over the world on bikes ( Russia, Africa, Kazakhstan, Mongolia, the US, but haven't made it to Canada beyond Roosville on the US/Canada border, when I did the Continental Divide ride a few years ago. I must get over there.
Thanks again and say hello to your Mom.
Lang may yer lum reek o' some other bodies coal!
Good vid, Rod. What about mixture screws next time?
Hi Mark. On this model of carb the mixture screws are underneath and kind of centre front of the carb body. A long "screwdriver" tool with a right angle tip is needed to adjust the carbs in turn. I have that tool but the fiddling to locate it onto the screw, to keep my now required glasses on whist my head is upside down and I'm peering under the carb bank so to do, and then to adjust each in turn renders such an appalling attack of cursing that you'd think I have Tourette's ...so probably inappropriate for RUclips unless I want to be banned.
Although I did adjust them after I turned off the camera, I may need to leave that demonstration to someone with a less mercurial temperament. In short - I maybe need to grow up
Please sir, can you show how to ajust mixure screws on carbs? Tnx, great video, keep on!!,
Hi Peter. Thanks for the question. I think (?) I have done that on the other carbs vid... The mixture at any speed above a fast idle is governed by the fuel level but getting the slow running right is something I'll cover in a special shorty if that helps.
My apologies my predictive text inserted Rob rather than Rod 👍🏻
Hi Rod Great video .Could you please tell me where I can obtain a adapter for the float bowl transparent pipe
Hi Daryl. Thanks for your kind comments. I've had it years but might be able too find where I got it. I'll have a look. Thanks flor watching. Best, Rod
Thanks for taking the time to make these videos. I have a 78 B1 purchased from new that I've just completed a full restoration, now down to setting the carbs I find it's running smooth above 3000 rpm, but rough below. So I'm in the area of checking float heights, pilot jets, air screws, etc. My questions are: 1) how critical is the float height? I think the service manual indicate +/- 3mm 2) does leaving the rubbers off the box/carb inlet have any effect when balancing the carbs?
Hi Eamonn. Assuming you've already set the idle mixtures, Pilot jets are definitely the place to start. The pilot jets and air screws (idle mixture screws) control low speed running and after say 2000rpm the fuel levels will control the mixture, so float height is VERY important overall. 3mm is about an eight of an inch. If you're setting the heights with a vernier or a rule, measured from the carb face that the float bowl sits against, with no gasket you need to be 25-26mm to the top of the float. If you're using a level pipe you need the level to be 3mm +- maybe a mil below the face.
Once you've done that you can refit ands balance the carbs. I suspect you'll find they're quite a way out so get them even running at 2000rpm, then slow the bike down to 1000rpm and adjust the idle mixtures starting with a rough setting on maybe a full turn out, then screw then out say another turn and screw them in until the engine starts to falter on that cylinder...then screw carefully back out so that one is running just rich enough to be smooth..if you go too far richening you can just do it again. It should be lovely then. good luckand thanks for watching , Rod
If I ever set them as a first go ( I'd often do this in case they need to come off again) with the rubbers off I'd check again once the airbox is connected through, but they'll not have altered much. Always good to check though
Hi Rod. Great video & info thanks. Any idea where I can buy a rebuild kit for my vacuum petcock? I have a 1978 KZ 650 C2. Even a manual petcock if you know one that will fit? It’s 44mm between mounting bolts. God Bless. Jim
Hi Jim. The rebuild kits are alas bl**dy awful and NEVER work...the carbs will still leak. Manual petcock would be a result but a good one ( the name eludes me for a minute) but I'll write back is about £150. A guy is selling good replacement vacuum petcocks for about 40-45 quid and I've tried 2 of them and they've both been good.Let me find the ad and I'll post the URL
The good manual taps are Pingel. You can find them on Ebay
Hi Rod. Thanks for the response. Your a good Man taking time for all of us! Pingel is pricey. If ya find the vacuum site let me know. I may buy an adapter plate & 3/8” NPT petcock. Any thoughts? Blessings, Jim
Could I pull the stock vacuum plunger and plug vacuum port and run as a manual petcock with an inline shut off valve? Thanks
Hi James. Ebay item numer 324979011945
Love the vids thanks Rod - especially as I’m doing up my first ever b1 😃 where did you get the connector for the clear tube for checking fuel levels?
Hi Graham. I found it on Ebay. I'll dig out the invoice. B1 will be a lovely bike when its done. I bought a 540 mile (for just 1100 Pounds!!) example a few years ago and decided to keep it.... Then I stupidly sold it when it had just shy of 1000 miles on it as I got a great offer. Should have kept it as I'll never find another .
@@rodcurrieclassics8102 cheers Rod - been on my bucket list for some time….got it from Tenerife for £1500 running about 18 months ago but needs a bit more work including a respray and a decent seat which are like hen’s teeth
Seat very hard to come by but look up "Giulari replica seat" on Ebay. "Bob the Seat" does them for 200 quid and they look great on the bike ..I even have one on my own 650
I have a couple of 650s coming in from the U.S. in about 2 weeks so look out for the vids
@@rodcurrieclassics8102 yeah - I’ve got a seat similar to the guilari but I may see if Bob can use the base for a decent replica
Hi Rod. I’m having some difficulty with float height. I’ve followed your video which is very informative, thank you. I’m a bit lost with the location of the 3mm making on the face of the bowl. When I measure mine it’s a lot higher then that shown on yours. I’m measuring from where the body and the bowl join. Should there be a difference?
Hi Warren. Sorry for the delay in responding-I have been on holiday. Did you get this resolved?? Happy to help if not
Thanks for your reply Rod and no I have resolved the issue. I set the floats as per your video but I’m not getting the same results as you.
Hi warren. what's the issue..are the carbs leaking...or just is it running badly...you don't say ? You mention the marking on the float bowl..when you say yours is higher...do you mean the fuel level is higher than the mark or the mark is in a different location to mine on the vid??
Hi Rod. I guess what my problem is I’m not sure where you take your measurement from on the carb. Is it from the very bottom of the carb or from where the gasket is seated. I take it from the gasket level which means my level mark is just below the very edge of the carb. When I set my float using the clear tube to float bowl I end up with a very rich running engine. I hope this explains my question.
Tremendous video.!!!
Hey Benny. Thanks for watching and for your kind comment. Hope it might be useful for you. best, Rod
My 79 kz 650 isn't firing on the 3rd cylinder. Guy I bought it from said he rebuilt carbs. Has spark and compression. Any ideas?
Hi Spencer.
a) I'm assuming you've taken the carb drain plug out so you know there's fuel in the carb:...if not do that first and if there's no fuel the needle valve is stuck closed. Sorted.
b) But.....If its not firing at idle suggest the idle jet is the wrong one, or blocked. Carbs off and compare the jet to its pals and that its clear.
c) If its not firing at all no matter the engine speed or load and you have compression etc:
squirt some brake cleaner, engine starter or WD40...basically anything combustible into the No 3 carb mouth with the engine running at a fast idle. if the engine picks up you know that carb is not fuelling. Carbs off and check needle valve is opening/closing freely, whets and emulsion tubes out and see if the emulsion tubes little holes are blocked or you have a blocked jet.
if none of that works Email me and we can have a chat.rodcurrie88@gmail.com. Good luck .
@@rodcurrieclassics8102 one of the things people miss out when overhauling these carbs is the seal on the end of the choke plungers. if they're not sealing the bike wont run right, you cant get new plungers or seals,but there is a chap on fleabay that fits new viton sals in them.
Hi there. It's my first time round the block with a BMW so thanks for that and thanks for watching. I hope you'll see this one fire up next week. Best, Rod
@@rodcurrieclassics8102 BMW rod ? LOL i was reffering to the kz650 mikunis :)
I've just posted a vid on BMW carbs...hence my confusion. Sorry about that. :0)
Once you get the carbs synched, do you cap off each vacuum port on the carbs?
Exactly that Levi. They come with little caps fitted and you remove them to connect the vac gauges,. Thanks for watching
@@rodcurrieclassics8102 Thank you sir......this video helps me a lot & hopefully i can get my bike dialed in now.
Thanks
NP. Hope it worked for you. Thanks for watching
why are the setting of the floats all the same ????
The float bowls are he same size of course, and the main jets need to be sitting in the same depth of petrol/gasoline so that the mixtures of air/fuel are the same and each cylinder will fire uniformly with its buddies.
Take forever to warm
God, yes. If you try to give it a squirt before it's FULLY warmed through it'll just hiccup and cough until you give it some choke. Those little pistons have a BIG lump of metal to warm up. Still one of my favourite bikes. Maybe it is my favourite. Everything else that came afterwards followed this template. Thanks for watching