I have the JDM 2000 Legacy and it looks the same. A few years ago my primary turbo went bad and caused the car to smoke excessively so my mechanic disconnected the oil line and I was able to drive the car without any smoking (low power) until the replacement turbo arrived.
Brett do more videos on the b4!!! Pleeeease , what mods you offer and how they change the car , i have a auto and mannual rev d rsk i allways belived they where the only rev in the generations that could be tuned without replacing ecu?
Thank you for speaking on one of my favorite Subarus sir. I'm in the US and our version is not up to standard like Japan and of course Australia. Any bit of info helps me in my quest to get this car up to JDM spec.
@Ur Mama yeah good results Ben was the tuner good guy lots of knowledge with these car got good power massive difference after tune vod is barley there
I own one of these, great car. Got it tuned by Kiddo Racing.. and virtually eliminated VOD, and improved mileage and performance significantly. Exhaust would be nice but not real necessary. Only thing with BE5’s are the rubbish headlights. Recommend factory low beam HID’s from Japan and a light bar behind grill for high beam 👍🏻
I run mine on 100 octane in NZ but lately I been having Boost issues. Used to do around 12 psi on primary and 15 psi on secondary. Now only seem to be getting 7.5 psi max on primary and secondary.
Currently rebuilding engine in a 1997 Legacy GTB - block and heads currently at workshop getting skimmed, rehoned and cleaned up. This is my second one i am rebuilding, can find video of me starting my RSK B4 from several years ago on my channel. Will update once i have more info. But the vacuum pipes are a bloody nightmare especially if you don't mark up which one goes where. Would be interested to find someone who can tune the ECU to limit the valley of death - would be good.
I have a Subaru legacy RS JDM I have the same engine (EJ20 Twin Turbo) and I was wondering if I can run 91 octane gas on my car I’m currently running regular gas 87?
I'm looking to do the EJ 20 twin turbo swap in my 03 Subaru Forester in the near future, would like to know if there are any turbo upgrades for that motor.I would at least like to break the 350 horsepower range
I had to replace a all the spark plugs on mine recently was running rough at idle and down on power like it was running on 3 cylinders.... about only issue had with it since owning it...
I have a subaru b4 legacy 2001 with a ej20 engine twin turbo. My primary turbo is making a strange noice as if it stack or something. After I removed the intercooler I found engine oil in it. Kindly assist me these two problems engine oil in the intercooler and strange noice from primary turbo.
when changing out the secondary turbo actuator, how do you preload the seconday turbo actuator? do you set it to 3 full trun revolutonand then pull it on? or just adjust it till it fit without any pull? hope you understand what im asking.
Could it be seized up? I read a story where someone bought a GTB off an old dude who obvs never revved it, The 2nd turbo was seized but eventually freed after a bit of frantic driving. Good Luck!
Now that I look at it, I think the car is retarding the timing when the second turbo kicks in. Because the car starts bucking in after 4500 rpm.@@stuartmccloud307
My car is doing the same thing it hits boost in anygear pulls hard upto 5k rpm roughly where the secondary turbo would kick on and it falls off completely change to the next gear and it makes boost very slowly
Can't speak for their systems, but 2.5 inch dump pipes into a 3 inch pipe after a y join is generally said to be the most effective sizing, and it's what has been put on my car by a PO and it runs well. Could even improve on the design of the one in my car by putting a flange on the primary or secondary pipe near the y join so either downpipe can be removed separately, so that you don't have to be on a lift to remove the one entire piece from the car.
I have a 2001 b4 with an mrt y pipe back exhaust system. It’s 3” stainless steel with stock dump pipes. Seems to work well. Ecutek tune. 210kw atw. No ping and very minimal vod.
This car on factory Australia tune over 5 years that i've had it had almost destroyed itself seemingly, at this point i'm fighting at approx 166.xxxk/s is idle shudder which seems to happen when i turn any electrics on, at this point i've repleaced cam sensor, replaced the battery, checked output on alternator, ( had to replace the turbo actuator on the 2nd turbo-not the cause of problem but -because of the stock aus tune it seems to blow out the diaphram- while i'm thinking about making it vacuum instead of pressurising to open the door.) back on original problem i've yet to investigate a fueling problem wether the fuel pump is dying and starving the motor or filter is simply blocked, i have other information as to how and when the problem started - literally car off car on.
I know this is long past, but if anyone is looking at this, I had this problem and it turned out to be the alternator. Specifically something internal in it (I was told the regulator? is inbuilt) and it malfunctions, so even though it looks like it's charging at correct volts, it's not putting out enough (amps?) to run the air-conditioning and fans (and/or lights) and the spark at the same time. ECM lights up and it throws non-firing cylinder, or bad injector codes as well. Tends to run better when you spin up the revs but if you turn off everything electric and it runs better at idle, this might be it. Hope this helps anyone looking.
@@groadoswaggins The factory gen3 Rev D as far as Revs are concerned it's a 110amp alternator, and is built to handle the electrics, however my alternator failed at 150.000 k's
@@groadoswaggins the above problem turned out to be the alternator cable was tampering with the fusebox, possible play.. and was sending codes left right and center to all the sensors due to inaccurate voltages, all it needed doing for a temp fix was to move the alternator send cable a few cms and lodge it behind the battery =] after a few months of throwing money at it.
@@X3lfl3X I had one fail at ~120,000 km, and just last week the brand new (at the time) OEM failed at 198,000km. Same symptoms, very rough with misfires especially at idle, same fix, change alternator. I think I was working the 2nd one too hard on an old battery for too long. Did you ever find out what the issue was on yours?
@@groadoswaggins the flange on the 2nd turbo ? or the electrical issue ? yeah.. both fixed.. fk what a headache these are.. eventually i gave it to my ex, and bought a super custom turbo diesel hiace.
Looking at how cramped it is on the passenger side with the integrated wastegate, now I see why North American left hand drive cars never saw this EJ20 twin turbo variant.
I have a 2001 GTB, the Blitzen model, automatic (tiptronic). Since I imported it from the Japan, I've had code 66 error, I have checked all hoses for leaks and I haven't found any leaks, cleaned the driver's side solenoid properly and visually checked it and seems fine but still the car throws code 66 and engine ECL comes on, 7/8 times out of 10. Engine kind of stalls/hiccups and secondary turbo will not boost. Sometimes it does come on and car boosts well both in the primary stage and secondary stage. Don't know what to check next. I haven't checked/cleaned the passenger side solenoid yet or under the air - intake area. I have noticed the air intake fins slightly damaged on the side (less than 1 cm) and the big actuator on secondary turbo rattles a bit at idle speed but stops when you hold its arm that opens and closes the valve connecting to the exhaust system. Help is appreciated.
Hey hopefully you may be able to steer me in the right direction. The engine in my partners 2000 model b4 seized so I swapped engines and everything is working fine and drives fine but the primary turbo is not creating boost, no low end power, and throws fault code 66 when are 3500-4000rpm. could this be anything to do with vacuum lines or seeing as the primary doesn't have many vacuum connection could it be a sticky/stuck Wastegate?
Here in the UK we have 99 Octane fuel available. I suppose this is okay for the twin turbo GTB and B4. The Japanese data mentions 98 octane is the required fuel for it: Can any one confirm this? catalogue.japaneseusedcars.com/m?name=catalog&file=cmp
uk ' canada ' new Zealand got them aswell .But Australia the only country outside Japan that sold these Brand new.The Cheap as chips in japan .$1500 USD WITH LOW KM
Great video, I have had a 2002 b4 for several years now and this gave me a far better understanding of how it operates. Bloody good car!
I have this engine in the bg5 mk2 legacy. Very complicated engine but yes a load of joy to drive.
I have the JDM 2000 Legacy and it looks the same. A few years ago my primary turbo went bad and caused the car to smoke excessively so my mechanic disconnected the oil line and I was able to drive the car without any smoking (low power) until the replacement turbo arrived.
Thanks again for all the great information you bring to us.
you guys should do a video of it running. in my country, we never got this engine version, and I'm curious how it sounds and drives
Brett do more videos on the b4!!! Pleeeease , what mods you offer and how they change the car , i have a auto and mannual rev d rsk i allways belived they where the only rev in the generations that could be tuned without replacing ecu?
Got one sitting in my yard, it's an amazing car but just don't have the time or effort to but into it right now
Thank you for speaking on one of my favorite Subarus sir. I'm in the US and our version is not up to standard like Japan and of course Australia. Any bit of info helps me in my quest to get this car up to JDM spec.
Join the Face book Twin turbo Subaru club stacks of information there
Can't wait bought a b4 getting a tune and service with mrt next couple of days will keep u guys tune what happens
so what happened?
@Ur Mama yeah good results Ben was the tuner good guy lots of knowledge with these car got good power massive difference after tune vod is barley there
@@advancedhinges sounds like it was worth it! do you know the change in bhp you got?
I got 196kw atw exhaust back from turbo bigger top mount and that all the work iv done to it Maxed out injectors
@@advancedhinges nice, was hoping you would be have an rsk but sounds like its a different B4 type?
I own one of these, great car. Got it tuned by Kiddo Racing.. and virtually eliminated VOD, and improved mileage and performance significantly. Exhaust would be nice but not real necessary. Only thing with BE5’s are the rubbish headlights. Recommend factory low beam HID’s from Japan and a light bar behind grill for high beam 👍🏻
I run mine on 100 octane in NZ but lately I been having Boost issues. Used to do around 12 psi on primary and 15 psi on secondary. Now only seem to be getting 7.5 psi max on primary and secondary.
Currently rebuilding engine in a 1997 Legacy GTB - block and heads currently at workshop getting skimmed, rehoned and cleaned up. This is my second one i am rebuilding, can find video of me starting my RSK B4 from several years ago on my channel. Will update once i have more info. But the vacuum pipes are a bloody nightmare especially if you don't mark up which one goes where. Would be interested to find someone who can tune the ECU to limit the valley of death - would be good.
I have a Subaru legacy RS JDM I have the same engine (EJ20 Twin Turbo) and I was wondering if I can run 91 octane gas on my car I’m currently running regular gas 87?
I'm looking to do the EJ 20 twin turbo swap in my 03 Subaru Forester in the near future, would like to know if there are any turbo upgrades for that motor.I would at least like to break the 350 horsepower range
I had to replace a all the spark plugs on mine recently was running rough at idle and down on power like it was running on 3 cylinders.... about only issue had with it since owning it...
Really interesting about that excessive ignition...Subaru's get a hard time about bottom ends going ...perhaps unfairly. Great video .
I have a subaru b4 legacy 2001 with a ej20 engine twin turbo. My primary turbo is making a strange noice as if it stack or something. After I removed the intercooler I found engine oil in it. Kindly assist me these two problems engine oil in the intercooler and strange noice from primary turbo.
when changing out the secondary turbo actuator, how do you preload the seconday turbo actuator? do you set it to 3 full trun revolutonand then pull it on? or just adjust it till it fit without any pull? hope you understand what im asking.
Please more vids on a B4
i have heard of ej twin turbos just never seen one until now thats really cool
Thanks! Although I can’t find out why the second turbo doesn’t kick in on my car
Could it be seized up? I read a story where someone bought a GTB off an old dude who obvs never revved it, The 2nd turbo was seized but eventually freed after a bit of frantic driving. Good Luck!
Now that I look at it, I think the car is retarding the timing when the second turbo kicks in. Because the car starts bucking in after 4500 rpm.@@stuartmccloud307
My car is doing the same thing it hits boost in anygear pulls hard upto 5k rpm roughly where the secondary turbo would kick on and it falls off completely change to the next gear and it makes boost very slowly
btw, you did mention that 3" dumps on these is too big? What size system do you guys recommend?
its al part of an overall design and tuned package, so not an easy yes or no answer......
but bigger is NOT always better
;)
Keeping it cryptic...
Can't speak for their systems, but 2.5 inch dump pipes into a 3 inch pipe after a y join is generally said to be the most effective sizing, and it's what has been put on my car by a PO and it runs well. Could even improve on the design of the one in my car by putting a flange on the primary or secondary pipe near the y join so either downpipe can be removed separately, so that you don't have to be on a lift to remove the one entire piece from the car.
I have a 2001 b4 with an mrt y pipe back exhaust system. It’s 3” stainless steel with stock dump pipes. Seems to work well. Ecutek tune. 210kw atw. No ping and very minimal vod.
Need more videos on these PLEEEEAAAASSSEEEE!!!
I have a subaru legacy twin turbo 1999 but it cant drive slowly it stop why
Can this engine be swapped into a 2004 wrx
Can FB25 add supercharge or turbo？
Can i gut out the cats from exhaust, is it safe to go catless
This car on factory Australia tune over 5 years that i've had it had almost destroyed itself seemingly, at this point i'm fighting at approx 166.xxxk/s is idle shudder which seems to happen when i turn any electrics on, at this point i've repleaced cam sensor, replaced the battery, checked output on alternator, ( had to replace the turbo actuator on the 2nd turbo-not the cause of problem but -because of the stock aus tune it seems to blow out the diaphram- while i'm thinking about making it vacuum instead of pressurising to open the door.) back on original problem i've yet to investigate a fueling problem wether the fuel pump is dying and starving the motor or filter is simply blocked, i have other information as to how and when the problem started - literally car off car on.
I know this is long past, but if anyone is looking at this, I had this problem and it turned out to be the alternator. Specifically something internal in it (I was told the regulator? is inbuilt) and it malfunctions, so even though it looks like it's charging at correct volts, it's not putting out enough (amps?) to run the air-conditioning and fans (and/or lights) and the spark at the same time. ECM lights up and it throws non-firing cylinder, or bad injector codes as well. Tends to run better when you spin up the revs but if you turn off everything electric and it runs better at idle, this might be it. Hope this helps anyone looking.
@@groadoswaggins The factory gen3 Rev D as far as Revs are concerned it's a 110amp alternator, and is built to handle the electrics, however my alternator failed at 150.000 k's
@@groadoswaggins the above problem turned out to be the alternator cable was tampering with the fusebox, possible play.. and was sending codes left right and center to all the sensors due to inaccurate voltages, all it needed doing for a temp fix was to move the alternator send cable a few cms and lodge it behind the battery =] after a few months of throwing money at it.
@@X3lfl3X I had one fail at ~120,000 km, and just last week the brand new (at the time) OEM failed at 198,000km. Same symptoms, very rough with misfires especially at idle, same fix, change alternator. I think I was working the 2nd one too hard on an old battery for too long.
Did you ever find out what the issue was on yours?
@@groadoswaggins the flange on the 2nd turbo ? or the electrical issue ? yeah.. both fixed.. fk what a headache these are.. eventually i gave it to my ex, and bought a super custom turbo diesel hiace.
Looking at how cramped it is on the passenger side with the integrated wastegate, now I see why North American left hand drive cars never saw this EJ20 twin turbo variant.
can you upgrade the turbos?
I have a 2001 GTB, the Blitzen model, automatic (tiptronic). Since I imported it from the Japan, I've had code 66 error, I have checked all hoses for leaks and I haven't found any leaks, cleaned the driver's side solenoid properly and visually checked it and seems fine but still the car throws code 66 and engine ECL comes on, 7/8 times out of 10. Engine kind of stalls/hiccups and secondary turbo will not boost. Sometimes it does come on and car boosts well both in the primary stage and secondary stage. Don't know what to check next. I haven't checked/cleaned the passenger side solenoid yet or under the air - intake area. I have noticed the air intake fins slightly damaged on the side (less than 1 cm) and the big actuator on secondary turbo rattles a bit at idle speed but stops when you hold its arm that opens and closes the valve connecting to the exhaust system. Help is appreciated.
Probably this could help: arbmonster.narod.ru/twin/twin.html
Thank you, buddy.
any white blue smoke secondary turbo could be toast
Probably missing heaps of restricter pills in the vac lines
great video! I love my Gtb
Custom kit that you designed few years ago - Pleese !
More b4 vids PLEASE
good information again
Hey hopefully you may be able to steer me in the right direction. The engine in my partners 2000 model b4 seized so I swapped engines and everything is working fine and drives fine but the primary turbo is not creating boost, no low end power, and throws fault code 66 when are 3500-4000rpm. could this be anything to do with vacuum lines or seeing as the primary doesn't have many vacuum connection could it be a sticky/stuck Wastegate?
join the NZ twin turbo Subaru Fb page to get better feed back
I want to put one in my 2000 outback limited
I thought that the primary turbo is on the driver side
Excessive ignition timing and big end bearing damage . Sounds like the STi EJ20K.
Here in the UK we have 99 Octane fuel available. I suppose this is okay for the twin turbo GTB and B4. The Japanese data mentions 98 octane is the required fuel for it: Can any one confirm this? catalogue.japaneseusedcars.com/m?name=catalog&file=cmp
The BE5D is the only twin turbo worth getting. The Revision A, B and C are rubbish.
Hi, could you set up a second turbo so that it would start working faster, between 3500-3800 rpm?
Yeh hose 1 & 10 mod, oh and/or a tune
Are these only available in kangaroo land? I wouldn't mind wrenching on one of these here in the U.S.A..
can only import to us after they are 25 years old.
uk ' canada ' new Zealand got them aswell .But Australia the only country outside Japan that sold these Brand new.The Cheap as chips in japan .$1500 USD WITH LOW KM
will have to be imported as well mate, you could but the motor but it WILL NOT FIT your left hand drive cars.!!!
Stil regretting selling my ej20tt swaped gc8
Hi
Simple mod is this:www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?/topic/34067-the-hose-10-mod-bebh/
Rsk are so cheap in japan , $1000
import me one to canada
I'm not a importer . Ask Dereck from Pacffic coast autos . =Probably can get in Canada for less than 3000 usd .
mrt blew up my B4
Very informative, thanks for including so much information.
pics or it didn't happen
And marty and moog built my aston martin
shieeeeee