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Love ferrules - often makes the job so much easier. The longer ones even let you insert a stranded wire into a wago push-fit connector such as the 773 series.
Thank you for this video gents! I'm a huge proponent of the use of ferrules, and generally think their use makes one's work look a lot more professional.
I done my apprenticeship in the industrial and commercial sector, one of the first thing I was taught by my journeyman was where to use ferrules, I’ve been qualified for a year and I’ve since moved on and I still use them everyday!
I was rewiring an office arming up the new board and one of my clients employees accidentally kicked a box with over 1000 ferrules in all over the floor. 3 hours it took him to sort them all out.
Great video. Thank you. I keep the insulated ones and when I need the odd one that's uninsulated I just split the shoulder with small sharp cutters and the insulation comes off very easily.
I have used very thin uninulated ferrules and thin coloured heat shrink sleeves to successfully repair a damaged PC keyboard cable in a pull out drawer in a 19" rack.... I spliced them so that they didn't all combine to make a huge lump in the cable...I also sleeved the cable with heat shrink in the vulnerable areas to save from future damage... Much slimmer repair than soldering...
Great video - just to add that the Nest has three live feeds (terminals L to 2 to 5) and so you would need to do a double to a double to a single but we got the idea.
Great tips. Obviously not all ferrules are made equally. Are we concerned about the cheaper ferrules that are floating around that a lot of people will be using will not have the same electrical properties such that of copper/tinned wire?
Insulated boot lace ferrules (I know they are aglet's on boot laces) invented by Telemecanique I worked for them when they first came out. Keep a drill bit the correct size in your box for when some prat steps on the box. You can get double Ferrules in the insulated ones the shoulder is oval.
Section 526.9 (18th)- has quite a bit on multiwire and fine wire and very fine wire conductors. - You're right no soldering/ tinning for use in screw connectors.
Great video , I have a question if u could please give me advice if I was to use a light on the out side if my shed if I wanted to connect the light instead of using a plastic block could I use like a male n female in a junction box and just crimp
You don't need ferrules with the Wago connectors, BUT do you need to use ferrules if you're going to try to stuff two stranded wires into one lever section? I'd think there's a chance of much worse gripping in such a connector if you don't do that.
Recently, was working on a wiring harness for Honda PCX125 scooter wiring harness. came across where several wires were ferrule-style crimped together - without a ferrule; (in essence, what might be called a "cold-flow" crimp: a term common when crimping automotive battery cable ends). The connection was still intact and appeared to be well bonded. Are you aware of crimping tools specifically designed or these type of crimps? (i.e. exerting considerably more pressure than average for ferrule crimps?). "Cold-flow" crimps reduce/eliminate air gaps/spaces for corrosion to develop; "tinning" said, post crimp, introduces heat (and/or flux) where corrosion can be initiated.
Yes - The answer is “depends” - needs to be a large enough diameter to “act” like a solid core when ferruled up and if using shouldered ferrules not too big to fit in the terminal entry.
Can I use a ferrule inside a ferrule to step up the wire gauge? Strangely, I can’t find an answer to this on Google. I need to use 12AWG wire in a plug housing that is made for 10 to 6 AWG wire. It’s part of a pigtail for running 12A load on a 50A outlet.
I loved your video and tips, thanks from India. Non insulated ferrules are not easily available here . My question is if I insert the wire from the other end, crimp and then but off the plastic part, would it be technically incorrect, would it cause some problems. I need to wire home use appliance plugsany times and was thinking of a solution instead of soldering.
That should work, but could be a bit like threading a needle - as the non insulated ones have a slight fluted edge to help guide the wires. If you can get non insulated they are usually much cheaper
Dropped them, not sure if German or French then measure the internal diameter with vernier calipers and apply the pi R sqaured formula to get the cross sectional area. Then look it up on your chart.
@@vw_mods_4711 think about it. You are going to potentially damage a solid conductor. With stranded, you are forcing the strands together. Not so with solid.
I heard you can only use ferrule on copper wire only and on low voltage system like 12v and 24v systems only. I am a commercial engineer for commercial dishwashers and Glasswasher, I was told by the gentleman in the electrical store that they would be no good for wiring into contactor for boiler heating. What are your thoughts on that? Any info would be appreciated. Good video. Thanks for sharing
That was the reason the practice of soldering the end stranded wires was banned here in Germany in 1979. The solder will deform in a terminal if put mechanical stress on it with a screw, that will cause a loose connection over time. The solder also corrodes on the surface. On a soldered connection that's not a problem, the corrosion is only on the surface, but if you solder the tip of a wire and put it into a terminal it will cause problems over time. The corrosion is caused by the flux. It roughes up the surface chemically so the solder will stick on it.
It really depends on whether it's inserted into a square or round terminal. You'd get more surface area contact on square ferrule to square termination. It'd be a similar scenario for hexagonal to round terminal. Usually the screw in the terminal block presses into the bootlace ferrule itself.
I don't like those double ferrules as if you have to separate the two wires for some purpose, such as for diagnostic reasons, you have to cut them. I would prefer to use ferrules without the plastic collar and keep the wires separate.
*** WIN ***
If you'd like a chance to win the Wiha crimp tool we use in our videos - make sure you register for our LIVE FEED LOCKDOWN event
www.efixx.co.uk/Events/lockdown-live-feed
Guys could u recommend a light Molex type crimper ?
Love ferrules - often makes the job so much easier. The longer ones even let you insert a stranded wire into a wago push-fit connector such as the 773 series.
#TopTip - Thanks
Thank you for this video gents! I'm a huge proponent of the use of ferrules, and generally think their use makes one's work look a lot more professional.
I discovered ferrules a few years now and love using them in my home built solar power system. Greetings from Jamaica.
Always happy to visit and see how you use them 😉
I done my apprenticeship in the industrial and commercial sector, one of the first thing I was taught by my journeyman was where to use ferrules, I’ve been qualified for a year and I’ve since moved on and I still use them everyday!
I was rewiring an office arming up the new board and one of my clients employees accidentally kicked a box with over 1000 ferrules in all over the floor. 3 hours it took him to sort them all out.
That'll teach the twat to be more careful. and also cost them more with a padded invoice?
Great video. Thank you. I keep the insulated ones and when I need the odd one that's uninsulated I just split the shoulder with small sharp cutters and the insulation comes off very easily.
Awesome video. Ferrules look a lot neater. 👍
I have used very thin uninulated ferrules and thin coloured heat shrink sleeves to successfully repair a damaged PC keyboard cable in a pull out drawer in a 19" rack.... I spliced them so that they didn't all combine to make a huge lump in the cable...I also sleeved the cable with heat shrink in the vulnerable areas to save from future damage...
Much slimmer repair than soldering...
Love that free download eFIXX 👍
Just discovered that your Wiha crimper is in fact a Klauke K30-series crimper.
Klauke for the win...
And it's also available as the Hilpress 11756...
Great video , excellent top tips I will be looking at using ferrules 👍👍
Great video - just to add that the Nest has three live feeds (terminals L to 2 to 5) and so you would need to do a double to a double to a single but we got the idea.
It's great watching "electricians" learn about and use stuff that "electronics" people have known about and been doing for years.
Great video guys, must admit i only use non insulated, only because the OCD in me says the colour coding is rubbish
Great move - must have good eyes for threading the smaller ones.
@@efixx glasses and plenty of patience for the smaller ones :)
I cannot use the coloured ones. Nothing worse than seeing the wrong colours poking out of the terminal.
These could come in handy! Had no idea these even existed.
5:43 As the insulation on the ferrule prevents the wire going all the way in, can you use a non-insulated ferrule instead?
Moin!
👍no.1 for you with first message from me. 😁
Great tips. Obviously not all ferrules are made equally. Are we concerned about the cheaper ferrules that are floating around that a lot of people will be using will not have the same electrical properties such that of copper/tinned wire?
Agree - That is something we are planning to investigate.
Always buy weidmuller ferrules
Insulated boot lace ferrules (I know they are aglet's on boot laces) invented by Telemecanique I worked for them when they first came out. Keep a drill bit the correct size in your box for when some prat steps on the box. You can get double Ferrules in the insulated ones the shoulder is oval.
Great tips!
When is the crimping tool video coming? If you could let me know...
I love a ferrule thise extra couple of minutes it takes to ferrule all conductors up at a fitting or board it well worth it!
Somewhere in "The Regs", (17th ed. I'm out of the game now so no 18th ed.) I think it says not to use soldered cable/ flex ends in to screw terminals.
Section 526.9 (18th)- has quite a bit on multiwire and fine wire and very fine wire conductors. - You're right no soldering/ tinning for use in screw connectors.
Great video , I have a question if u could please give me advice if I was to use a light on the out side if my shed if I wanted to connect the light instead of using a plastic block could I use like a male n female in a junction box and just crimp
Are there ferals made out of different material? looking for a video talking about aluminum versus maybe copper.
Ferrules and Ferrule crimpers produce square profiles; this is sufficient for low current (
Don't know if it's been said but would the UK have a set colour guide and if so would the efixx team with help from e5 come up with the guide?
Soldering stranded instead of using a ferrule is a big NO the solder "flows" under screw pressure over time and the connection becomes loose.
You don't need ferrules with the Wago connectors, BUT do you need to use ferrules if you're going to try to stuff two stranded wires into one lever section? I'd think there's a chance of much worse gripping in such a connector if you don't do that.
Recently, was working on a wiring harness for Honda PCX125 scooter wiring harness. came across where several wires were ferrule-style crimped together - without a ferrule; (in essence, what might be called a "cold-flow" crimp: a term common when crimping automotive battery cable ends). The connection was still intact and appeared to be well bonded. Are you aware of crimping tools specifically designed or these type of crimps? (i.e. exerting considerably more pressure than average for ferrule crimps?).
"Cold-flow" crimps reduce/eliminate air gaps/spaces for corrosion to develop; "tinning" said, post crimp, introduces heat (and/or flux) where corrosion can be initiated.
That wira crimper is 130quid on the Amazon, is there is cheaper option please ?
Great video.. have you tried the ferrules on the non lever wago? Always been a problem having to have both to hand when using flex. Many thanks steve
Yes - The answer is “depends” - needs to be a large enough diameter to “act” like a solid core when ferruled up and if using shouldered ferrules not too big to fit in the terminal entry.
If you need an uninsulated ferrule you can just cut and peel off the plastic part, then it will fit in a smaller opening...
Can I use a ferrule inside a ferrule to step up the wire gauge? Strangely, I can’t find an answer to this on Google. I need to use 12AWG wire in a plug housing that is made for 10 to 6 AWG wire. It’s part of a pigtail for running 12A load on a 50A outlet.
I loved your video and tips, thanks from India. Non insulated ferrules are not easily available here . My question is if I insert the wire from the other end, crimp and then but off the plastic part, would it be technically incorrect, would it cause some problems. I need to wire home use appliance plugsany times and was thinking of a solution instead of soldering.
That should work, but could be a bit like threading a needle - as the non insulated ones have a slight fluted edge to help guide the wires. If you can get non insulated they are usually much cheaper
@@efixx I've occasionally used an insulated crimp and cut off the shoulder after fitting. Solves both problems!
6:57 Doesn't 2x1mm add up to approx. 1.5mm, since you're doubling the area not the diameter?
ferrule crimper tools have done the video yet or have I missed one ????? gary
Dropped them, not sure if German or French then measure the internal diameter with vernier calipers and apply the pi R sqaured formula to get the cross sectional area. Then look it up on your chart.
Can you put your two neutrals or two live cables into a ferrule to a ring socket circuit to create better connections
Not suitable for solid conductors
@@efixx can you expand a little! as to why not please?
@@vw_mods_4711 think about it. You are going to potentially damage a solid conductor. With stranded, you are forcing the strands together. Not so with solid.
I heard you can only use ferrule on copper wire only and on low voltage system like 12v and 24v systems only. I am a commercial engineer for commercial dishwashers and Glasswasher, I was told by the gentleman in the electrical store that they would be no good for wiring into contactor for boiler heating. What are your thoughts on that? Any info would be appreciated. Good video. Thanks for sharing
Ferrule I use it in Lebanon with circuit breaker and switch spot light and numbers marker for for wire I have ferrule 3000 pcs and more
Hi. When are you doing the ferrule crimp tool video?
We are trying to acquire the Rolls Royce of ferrule crimpers (and not pay for it) - so we can compare a full range of tools.
Another use for insulated crimps is to retain cable markers.
With push type terminal blocks you'll need to use ferrules.
Hi Gaz.
How can I download the colour chart?
I tried to use the link below but just came up with a error code🤔
Sorry about that - try this one.
www.efixx.co.uk/Know%20How/ferrules
@@efixx Got it now and printed it off. Thank you.
I one time did solder end of wire for a hot water tank 2.7kw ended up with a over heating end so then crimped it.
Good to know
That was the reason the practice of soldering the end stranded wires was banned here in Germany in 1979. The solder will deform in a terminal if put mechanical stress on it with a screw, that will cause a loose connection over time. The solder also corrodes on the surface. On a soldered connection that's not a problem, the corrosion is only on the surface, but if you solder the tip of a wire and put it into a terminal it will cause problems over time. The corrosion is caused by the flux. It roughes up the surface chemically so the solder will stick on it.
What Crimp form, Hexagonal or square? Can't understand how the contact surface is the same for each pattern, any ideas?
It really depends on whether it's inserted into a square or round terminal. You'd get more surface area contact on square ferrule to square termination. It'd be a similar scenario for hexagonal to round terminal. Usually the screw in the terminal block presses into the bootlace ferrule itself.
I don't like those double ferrules as if you have to separate the two wires for some purpose, such as for diagnostic reasons, you have to cut them. I would prefer to use ferrules without the plastic collar and keep the wires separate.
Remember with the 221s, if you intend to ferrule a conductor/s greater than 4mm, you ain't getting it in a 0.2-4mm you're gonna need the 0.5-6mm 221s
Never swear as much as I do when I have to install a nest
For uninsulted, just flip the insulated one around and snip off the insulation...uninsulted is waste of money.
They are cheaper plus have a fluted end making it easier to insert the strands of wire