Your tips have been a great aid to me. I don’t ride a lot of tracks, I don’t push my boundaries on the road, and my current tires are TKC 80. But you teach the basics, and how to investigate wear and other problems. By adressing these things early, you might be responsible for saving thousands of lives. I can only hope you can live with this responsibility, Dave
Thank you for being willing to leverage our content and learn more. My mission is to save lives every day and with riders like yourself talking about this content, we can steer others to a different path of thought and riding. Thank you for your support!
@@catalystreactionsbw Thanks will do. Just one thing, when you mentioned the hand method and checking the temps in general. My experience with Bridgestone S21 was that it gets up to temp really fast, while Dunlop Q3+s didn't. So how do I accurately decide on my air pressure because with the first tire I might think it's too low based on the heat and the second one might make me think it's a little high since the tire takes way longer to get hot, if you know what I mean. That seems like a big variable that a couple psi difference won't have any affect on and could in turn make me adjust the pressure to the wrong amount.
Just wanted to add that how much pressure rise you'll get depends on the amount of moisture in your tire. Always a good idea to purge your compressor of water to avoid this! The pro's also use nitrogen, which doesn't change as drastically with respect to temperature!
Made the mistake on my last track day of not lowering my tire pressure as i got faster and day started to get warmer. I was only checking my tire pressure before the session instead of right after when it’s hot. Ended up washing out the front end on a turn where I was consistent the whole day.
Sorry to read about your incident. Hot pressures are best checked at 11am to noon and 2-3pm. If possible come in after 5 laps to check in the hot pit if you have someone that can have your gauge ready.
maybe a dumb question here, but I still wonder, what would be the lowest tire pressure still rideable? surely it would create much larger contact patch which would imply better grip. but maybe also carcass hardness/softness could be compromised? I'm still building faith and confidence in my cornering speed bc I'm so paranoid about tire loosing grip and going out from under me. or maybe even too much pressure making much smaller patch and compromising grip and traction itself. Is there an ideal contact patch size??
Love your videos, learning so much. Even learned how to describe what I'm feeling/the bikes feedback. I have noticed you spend most of your time with track settings, I would love to hear your input on street applications, as most of us spend most our time there. Reading tires, suspension set up for canyons vs commuting, Tyre overview, etc.
Just to confirm I'm following correctly....if the tires on my tractor (harley davidson Dyna lol) are warm and cuddly to the touch after a 40 minute commute, 90% of which is freeway 80-90mph in southern california, they are not getting hot enough for optimal performance. I should reduce psi by 2, commute again and reevaluate and repeat if necessary. If the tire is too hot to touch for more than a second or so, the tire is too hot and I should increase psi by 2, commute and reevaluate? I want my front and rear tire temps to feel the same, correct ? But the tire pressure may be different between the front and rear to get that temp? So many variables to consider but I'm having fun trying to dissect everything lol. Your channel is very addicting. P.s. would it be worth it to have a remote tire reading session with you? Considering the only adjustments I can make are tire pressure and preload in the rear suspension + front if I buy the component ?
Let's continue with the tire tuning prior to the consult. Try lowering pressure and see you much hea you have. Then up the pressure so it is 2-3psi higher to focus the hear into a narrow band. Remember that the front is out in cool air while the rear is both heated by the engine and power from it. Theer will be a difference front to rear.
Thanks for the info. I have a follow up question. I have a 125cc scooter and i weigh 82kg and always with a 50-70kg passenger, what should be my recommended tire pressures?
Start by reading the sidewall of the tire which clearly states what your maximum pressure can be when cold or hot. Then go straight to maximum and see how you both feel. Lower by 2psi when cold and test again. If lower feels worse, are you willing to try 2psi above the recommended maximum for a short test ride? If that feels better, find tires that allow a maximum higher pressure.
Dave what is your opinion based on your knowledge that you may or may not have about gold wing and Valkyrie riders that put car tires on the rear rim of their gold wings. They claim they get over 25,000 miles out of a tire that costs half of what the correct Dunlop tire costs..Even though those tires are relatively square and the footprint appears to shrink in corners because they’re Leaning over onto an edge..They claim that they feel no adverse effects to handling. since that is definitely not a tire recommended by Honda and I’m sure that the tire manufacturer won’t condone the use of that car tire on a motorcycle. So how do you determine the air pressure in that tire? I remember in the 80s, Freddie Spencer and Kenny Roberts were doing tire testing for Goodyear road racing tires. Some of their testing determined that 8 inche wide rear tire is too wide. It takes too much countersteer to get the motorcycle to rotate.. they also determined that 16 inch wheels on the front Which was popular around in 1983 - 1987 .. The Suzuki 650 turbo had a 16 inch front wheel, the Honda interceptor’s, Yamaha put a 16 on their FJ 1100/1200even Moto Guzzi had 16 inch front wheels on their Lemans and Lario models to be trendy..Experts, whoever they are, determine that 16 inch front wheels were too small. They make the bike stand up while braking into corners, It took a lot more countersteer pressure to hold the line in corners with 16s upfront. Yamaha corrected this by going to a larger front wheel and a skinnier front tire on their FJ1200 in 89 So what are your feelings about goldwing and Valkyrie owners putting a car tire on the rear of their motorcycles because of the almost double mileage and much lower cost? when I was a motorcycle mechanic/here in the United States many states have what is known as a state inspection for cars/trucks motorcycles. Every year, you must get your state inspection done where they test your vehicles emissions/motorcycles and diesels are exempt, and they check your general safety of your vehicle by looking at your brake pads, your tires, make sure all your lights work things like that. My point is,I would not pass a motorcycle that had a car tire installed in the rear. I would be jeopardizing my State inspection license and could possibly be found liable for passing a machine with out of spec tires.. Do you have any experience or have you heard any stories about car tires being used on the rear of gold wings, good or bad?
Using a car tire can invalidate your insurance immediately. For those doing a lot of touring, yes they get far more miles out the rear tire but they are not sportbike aggressive style riders. Pressures? www.goldwingfacts.com/threads/darkside-tire-pressure-experimenting-what-psis-are-you-using.388282/
I have 2022 cbr1000 I've replaced at least 8 back tires I don't burn rubber it's losing rubber dead center on every tire it's been at Honda dealer Suzuki dealer still same thing I've used every brand
Is the wear symmetrical from the center point? 2. Have you checked wheel bearings? 3. Have you had a really good look at shock travel used? 4. Has the shock linkage (all bolts) been cleaned and greased?
Hi Dave, with regard to riding ability am I correct in saying that if your ability is high and you're faster you will set a lower cold pressure and you will get the tyres warmer by riding quicker hence increasing tyre pressure to the required psi for your bike setup. And if you're ability is on the slower side you'll want to set a higher cold psi as you won't be warming the tyres up as much from riding therefore won't get as much of an increase in tyre pressure whilst riding?
Great question. Correct for faster with a soft carcass tire. If you are slower, the higher pressure concentrates the heat into a narrower band to sustain temps.
Can you play with tire PSI to adjust geometry if you have limited suspension adjustment or none at all? If I need a little more rake and trail, could I just run a slightly lower rear tire pressure and maybe a higher front tire pressure? Thanks for the video.
Hi Dave, know this is a great but old thread but just in case you see it, I have a question. Im 70kg and riding a cbr 1100 blackbird. I ride fairly conservative street only. Im running Michelin road 5’s stock sizing but the stiffer GT version. Honda says 42/42 cold. Ambient here ranges 55-85f riding season. Being GT, should pressures be adapted for that? Riding i get the impression tires may be a bit too hard. Doing the palm check they never seem to get more than warm. Other riders of the cbr 1100 on the forums mostly state 42/42 for any tire regardless or there could be performance issues. Any thoughts greatly appreciated. Btw. Running 95 linear springs (stock were 89 progressive) and a Nitro R1 shock. Thanks
I would suggest you test 34 front and 36 rear given your riding choice being conservative. Then test 36/36 then 36/38 and lastly 40/40, all cold pressures. Based on your roads and preferences, you will find the pressures you prefer.
I would not have a problem with the change other than knowing the tires will bead and seal correctly etc. The big factor will be circumference changes and that will effect geometry as well as radials can be generally softer with the carcass therefore giving you less feedback but more bump compliance.
Thankyou for that, i think i will try to obtain some OEM size Michelin Road Classic with the Silica compound in them. I understand not to change the geometry. Thankyou heaps. Chris
Dave I saw where you mentioned if you are gaining more than 2-3 psi from warmers to track then you are under-inflated off the warmers. What if you are coming off track at the same psi as off the warmers? What if you're coming off track at 2-3 psi lower than off the warmers? What would you do in those situations?
Coming in at the same pressures - all is good. Coming in with less than you went out on = pressure too high, reduce by 1psi and test. Coming in +3 over warmer pressure = underinflated so add 1psi. All subject to pace, diligence and monitoring track temps: davemosstuning.com/?s=tire+pressure
First, appreciate you for your explanations. I am a FJ 09 owner. I am confused about correct tire pressures (same psi's for both tires). My bike weighs 210 kg wet and me 95 kg. My suspensions are stock. I can say that i ride a bit agressively and love cornering too much. The climate is cold in winter and really hot in summer here. What do you suggest for me ?
I live in NZ and have the same conditions. Run your bike with reasonable pressure in the tyres, give them time to warm up, ride as you would normally. When warm, pull over and check as he did with your hand straight away. They should be even front to rear, or close enough. If to cold, let out a couple of pounds, if to hot, put a couple of pounds in. Keep checking until you have the temp you require. I like mine nice and toasty but not hot for the road. Do this on a nice day as you would ride, that's your tyre pressure generally. On a cold day, drop a pound or two. When ever you pull up and get off, put your hand on your tyres, you will soon learn what you like. No-one can tell you what the best is really, it's a bit subjective, style of riding etc. Get in contact with your bike, put your hands on her, she'll tell you what she needs.
Hi Dave, sir I have my gsx s1000 2019 my weight is 195lbs. Ive got Mitas super force plus, what will be my tyre pressure by cold when i used to ride at a twisty mountain ?
I have no idea what track you ride at and your ability based on group you ride in and knowledge of that track. General rule is 26-28 rear hot and 33 to 38 front hot. For 10-15C I would use 1-2psi less for the front and 1psi less for the rear.
Hi Dave, I'm a street rider, I enjoy riding in the Twisties, what tire pressure should I go for? I'm on irc roadwinner tyres and my bike is Yamaha R25 and it comes with non adjustable front fork and monoshock with basic preload adjustments
@@catalystreactionsbwlast time I started at 36 front cold and 38 cold rear, I had a good ride, this advice I followed from one of your videos and this tyre pressure helped me to ride with chicken strips until I learn how to use the tyre till the end. I felt very confident with this tyre pressure actually and my rear monoshock absorber comes with 7 steps and 3rd level is the standard setting, I increased it to 5 and felt more comfortable, at that time my weight was around 85kg but recently I lost 15kg to 20kg and my current weight is around 65kg, now when I ride the bike I feel like being thrown off on bumpy road and I ride with low tyre pressure 27 front cold and 27 rear cold
Good video! May i ask something in addition: is this PSI gain rule valid for, on one hand, different tire size (e.g. font as well as rear or rear 200/60 as well as rear 190/55 size), and, on the other hand, valid for different brands, e.g. Bridgestone Slick as well as Pirelli Slick?
East or West track? A, B or C pace? What motorcycle, what lap time? What Brand, model and Compound? Stock bike or modified? There are many questions to ask prior to making accurate recommendations.
Is it worth using a tyre pressure monitoring system? Or aren't these accurate enough? I noticed that one model I looked at listed a variance of +/- 1.5psi...
If your brain needs that information or a tool to provide you that information and you have the time to observe it when you ride, sure........ Information is power, so leveraging that can lead to you riding more smoothly via confidence through knowledge.
Just bought a pair of RS11’s for my Fireblade. Any recommendations for fast road tyre pressures ? I’m 170lbs and only ride mountains... Electronic suspension Axwell 👍👍(SP)
What temperature range should we be looking for using a pyrometer and measuring hot off the track? What about a surface temperature range if we're using an infrared thermometer?
If you ride legal speed limits on public roads,. 36/38 would be a good all around pressure for Summer given your light weight. Spring would be two psi lower for colder temperatures.
Hi Dave, thanks for the video. I still would like to make a point clear. For the same tyre, same rider, same bike, same suspension setting and track, how would you change the pressure with cold and warm weather? (Same compound) and how if it is cold and you have only a too soft compound available? Thanks
1. Emotional duress of a cold day means riding slower so you need to change pressures to sustain correct heat in the carcass. You go higher and lower to see what works for you. 2. Riding on warmer days inspires more speed, so pressures need to control heat in the tire as you go faster. Again, go higher and lower to see what works for you.
does anyone know how to calculate the pressure needed in the tire according with the rider weight? my tires were clean before and now i had a track day and they look terrible i think i was running too low in the pressure i weight 150 pounds and i think i had 25psi hot in the rear and 28 in the front. if that helps. thank u in advance if u can answer.
What tires did you use. General standard pressures are 30/30 front and rear when cold. You should see a 4-6psi gain at the track. Street riding at normal pressures will clean the tires up again within 100 miles in most cases
Old post I know, but running bran new or about 200 miles on them now PP3's on a 2013 ninja 636, 158 pounds and have been running 28/30 seems to be the sweet spot or am I doing it wrong. This is cold temp at start and weather is around 78 degrees no track twisties and street riding only. Thanks if you or anyone sees this.
Doing something is always better than nothing. Check your pressure gains and on the road you should see 3-4psi over cold. That tells you that your pace and pressures along with suspension settings are working well.
The best tire pressure is the one you find via testing based on your speed, ability and if you have a soft or hard carcass tyre. You need a Summer and a Winter pressure as ambient temps are very different.
what tyre pressure should I use on a 5th gen vfr800 for road use and what are the best sport touring tyres at the minute for this bike? looking at Pirelli angel gt2. thanks
I will be testing GT2 in a couple of weeks. The old GT I used 36 front and rear cold. Michelin Rs will be the next tire I test and that gets excellent reviews.
Sounds like you might be over inflated slightly but are you checking it in the middle of the ride where you are going at your pace? If not, tires cool off quickly.
@@catalystreactionsbw negative after a 1 mile through town trip. Will check in use today. 40 psi cold f/r has been decent tread wear but I am not the expert.
@@catalystreactionsbw Thank you. I'll drop a couple psi tomorrow and see what happens. If I only knew a 50th of what you do I would really kick my skills up.
Dave, is the +4 off the warmers plus an additional +2 off the track the rule of thumb for basically every tire and every track? If so, is that regardless of all outside forces like track temp, wind, sun vs clouds, etc? And if so, is it the same for rain tires? Thanks!
If warmers are working at 100% capacity yes +4 will be the norm if you follow the correct process and required times (brands and models within a brand are different). If you ride at 75-80% of your pace you should see another +2 as you can sustain and build more heat in the carcass and pressure. Riding slower might yield the same pressure as the warmers. Too slow and you might not hold +4.
I was told that race wets don't need warmers at all?? Because you're using them on a cold wet track, any heat will quickly be lost. Plus the tyre build is not only designed to disperse water, but also generate the heat needed through movement of the tread. Wondering if this is true?
Wet tires get very hot indeed due to the softness of the rubber. Standing water is needed to keep them at operating temps. Warming up rain tires to 140F prior to a race is an emotional decision or set choice to quiet your brain.
Dave - what pressures do you recommend for Diablo Rosso Corsa 2s? I am reading from 32f 28r track HOT to something way higher from a pirelli guy at a Polish moto publication. Thanks!
Track or road? Fast or slow track? Cool or warm weather or downright boiling? Fast road or slow? Solo or 2 up with luggage? Quick blast or 4-7 hours a day in the saddle?
@@catalystreactionsbw thank you Dave!! Will be trying that next track day. I ran 30 30 cold and the front was hard to push past a certain lean angle last track day. Thanks again!!
Hi @Dave .... What about road tyre pressure? Tracer 900 manual says 36/42 ... Now i tried 32/36 but havent felt that grip improvement but i ve felt handling lost in low speed corners. Any advice? Riding on michelin pilot road 5 2ct
The App was dropped several years ago as literally no one was using it so we took all the videos and articles and put them on the website. May be time to get the App going again...... Very specific content for chassis geometry, suspension tuning and tyre wear examples.
I have a query I used to shift to one gear up while slowing down I close the throttle then shift up then pick the gear I am on before does it really make the transition smoth
Minimizing the time between shifting is where smoothness exists, so timing the throttle, clutch and shifter is no different on a bike to a car - it just a lot less time on a bike. As with any skill, practice makes perfect and every shift I do is done with intent so I focus on the skill, then get back to using my eyes. In time the skill becomes the same as breathing and is taken care of by the subconscious.
@dave moss tuning , so i just bought recently dunlop q3+ for my bike . i want to run a lower psi on the street for grip, as of now no track just street. i want to run cold34f 33r or cold33f 32r. once warm the first one will be 36/37f 35/36r or 35/36f 34/35r. good idea for hard street? the idea of a higher pressure gives me the woes
Depends on your weight, your bike weight and your ability. higher pressures = greater tire stability and grip verses lower pressure = more flex and irregular contact patch size. If you are over 200lbs and quick 30-34 will create a possible weave mid corner from tire flex, so start at 34/34 cold and ride. Let the tires cool off and then go to 36/36 to see how the handling improves. If you are under 140lbs and enjoy riding rather than be aggressive, those pressures may work well.
bikes 380lbs dry about 420ish full. im 185, so 34 cold front n rear? im agressive when safe but i can boogie for sure. i bought the q3+ to be a sticky street tire
start with 34 for one ride. The next time you go out try 36. If the bike handles better, the following ride try 38. Define what you and your bike need by testing :)
Your bike needs to be set up for your weight etc, so I will assume that has ll been done. For pressures, you need to see how much you gain from cold to hot. 5-7psi is ideal for the track and those pressures will change as ambient temps warm up. You will need a morning and an afternoon pressure.
Hi dave i have a ducati evo 848 2013, when a go to ride i feel it very hard it has bridgestone rs10 rear 28 psi front 28 psi. My question is are they ok with that pressure?
Have you had the suspension set for you? The rear shock on this bike was ridiculously stiff. If you have not (especially with rebound and sag) the bike will be very harsh to ride even if you experiment with tire pressure. I have run the Bridgestone that low on the road but to me it felt mushy and imprecise so my minimum pressure was 32 front and rear.
@@catalystreactionsbw Dave Moss Tuning hi good night dave, i haven't, here in México city nobody knows exactly how to do. Yes it feels very hard. I've tried to do but i dont feel great difference. I'll ride with 32 psi. Thanks very much.
You should be able to buy an Ohlins shock preload tool like this one that will work: www.motosport.com/product/?adpos=1o1&cc=us&creative=271546473279&device=c&gclid=CjwKCAjw_b3cBRByEiwAdG8WqlbtYxlunfkBFikFzNlfQ1RV6mkYL14aSNqO0VkOMzjYE8_7Wl_idRoC1_kQAvD_BwE&key=Ohlins-Shock-Spanner-Wrench&matchtype=&mrkgadid=3291760320&mrkgcl=500&network=g&product_id=OHL0016-X001-Y001&pssource=true&rkg_id=0&segment=badger-street
dave I just have a R3. I put diablo rosso II's on it 110 and 140 on the rear. the dealership put 28 psi in both. and I found they were really squishy. and the rear crown got flat really quickly which suggest too lower pressure. I put 36 in the rear (stock for my bike's michelin pilot street tyres) and 30psi front. is that alright?
Start with 38 rear and 36 front and ride. The following day go to 36/34 and ride, then the following day day 34/32. Which one felt best overall conditions, pavement types etc? Define your tire pressure :)
@Round Motovlog Foot peg placement gives you comfort and clearance. No plans for Malaysia but I know there is a big DMT following there. What is the best time of year to visit?
Thanks for the video Dave. The other day I just pulled out my bike which has simple fairly new Pirelli Diablo on it, and my rear tire was at 26/28 PSI instead of the usual 34/36 I have on it. Air temp. was 70/72 F. and on a simple 90 degrees street curve, without leaning really extreme, I felt the rear tire slip on my 2015 Yamaha FZ07 (no computer on it). I caught it up but I felt uncomfortable it happened. If I may ask, would you think that tire being at 26 PSI could be what gave me that, or do you think it could be the slight tire coating film on the new tires which didn't grip when I leaned ? Or both ?.. May be also the basic Pirelli Diablo grip isn't the best either ? I usually felt that the softer the rubber, usually the better the grip. I used to have some very soft tires on an old Kawasaki 750 Turbo, I don't remember the brand unfortunately, but I remember I could lean that bike quite down, even touching footpegs which are rather high on the 750 Turbo. And here I don't feel the same confidence, when today's little sporty bikes should lean nice and easy, no ?.. I really don't know what to think here, and any suggestion welcomed...
I am missing your weight, if you set sag and how much shock travel you are using. Normally lower pressure creates a much bigger contact patch and with new tyres, that should create a wobble at worst via carcass flex. I would try 30/30 then 36/36 as comparisons. As this was a one off it may well have been something on the road.
Depends on the bike, tire brand, carcass and speed you ride and most importantly, it depends on whether the bike is set up for you to cope with the roads you use. With your weight, test 34/34 front and rear, then 36/36 and 38/38.
Clearly you’re knowledgeable but you gotta start talking where us mere mortals can understand lol.. like a simple cold weather go higher psi warm weather go lower psi and then an explanation!! Unfortunately not everyone knows what you’re even saying.. kinda gotta break down for us dummys in these videos.. Thanks
strange, I didn't get the feeling he was explaining it in a overly complicated way but ok, it seems pretty clear it's just that it's not an easy answer since there are many factors to take in. I guess it's not something you'll get the feeling for right away, you just have to ride your bike in different conditions to get to know how it behaves
@@catalystreactionsbw It would be nice to have programmed AI that tells us what to do while out on track as it would be very expensive to be part of a race team or hire a coach. It could tell us something like the range to be in and what to look for. The super custom-tailored stuff should be for teams and coaches but all the basics should at least be understood like why not to run slicks that aren't off the warmers on the streets because they are harder than DOT but some people have no idea.
If the frame broke at one of the key welds without the bike being crashed, a precision welder might be able to redo the weld. If the bike was crashed and the frame broke, it is unlikely that you can get that repaired. If you get the frame fixed, the bike will still need to be measured.
Marster of the dark arts,l ike that hand ,heat gauge ,on the road in Australia i always run low ,a big footprint ,but no give,,...i see what thay mean when thay say DMT incesses your consciousness ☘💪
I'm Polish and I always thought your accent is more English then American now I know why . You need to pop in to UK for track day suspension set up I be there 😀
I have no idea what you are asking me to do with the App. At present there are no bugs to fix via user input. Please clarify your statement. Thank you.
thanks for the reply. in clarification, the app will not allow me to pay for content. once I get to the point of paying, the app just stops. thanks for your time.
Your tips have been a great aid to me. I don’t ride a lot of tracks, I don’t push my boundaries on the road, and my current tires are TKC 80. But you teach the basics, and how to investigate wear and other problems. By adressing these things early, you might be responsible for saving thousands of lives. I can only hope you can live with this responsibility, Dave
Thank you for being willing to leverage our content and learn more. My mission is to save lives every day and with riders like yourself talking about this content, we can steer others to a different path of thought and riding. Thank you for your support!
Dave Moss is the Boss.. love your videos and tips, I use them all the time when setting up and working with my 07 R6..
hmmm understand nothing from this video
Your a lost cause then , unless your takin' the piss,
Dave is absolutely king when it comes to suspension setup
Thanks for the kind words! Please share your learning with others and help me with my mission of paying it forward!
Excellent video. Thanks taking the time to film and edit it and of course for positing it for our benefit. Keep up the good work! -Migs
Thanks, will do!
Thanks for helping the community with your knowledge.
Man these Vids are like crack I am addicted, Dave is very engaging and knows his stuff.
Again, I learned something. This combined with the compression and rebound explanation is making my track-day far more interesting.
Wow that was really informative. One day I'll measure before my ride and then a little later to see psi differences.
Brilliant - make sure you track ambient temps at the time. There is a big difference with cold dense air to hot expanded air!
@@catalystreactionsbw Thanks will do. Just one thing, when you mentioned the hand method and checking the temps in general. My experience with Bridgestone S21 was that it gets up to temp really fast, while Dunlop Q3+s didn't. So how do I accurately decide on my air pressure because with the first tire I might think it's too low based on the heat and the second one might make me think it's a little high since the tire takes way longer to get hot, if you know what I mean. That seems like a big variable that a couple psi difference won't have any affect on and could in turn make me adjust the pressure to the wrong amount.
@@mckricks1 If you give it 20 minutes on the roads and 15 minutes on the track you should get a representative reading.
@@catalystreactionsbw Thanks a lot
When I went to a track day my Dunlop q3s were at 30/30 and by the end of session 2 it was at 36/38
ideal is 5-7psi cold to hot so it seems you were a little under inflated.
Dave Moss Tuning the tire vendor told me 30/30 was best, so when it went up to 36/38 I dropped it to 31/30 and it leveled out
Just wanted to add that how much pressure rise you'll get depends on the amount of moisture in your tire. Always a good idea to purge your compressor of water to avoid this! The pro's also use nitrogen, which doesn't change as drastically with respect to temperature!
Made the mistake on my last track day of not lowering my tire pressure as i got faster and day started to get warmer. I was only checking my tire pressure before the session instead of right after when it’s hot. Ended up washing out the front end on a turn where I was consistent the whole day.
Sorry to read about your incident. Hot pressures are best checked at 11am to noon and 2-3pm. If possible come in after 5 laps to check in the hot pit if you have someone that can have your gauge ready.
maybe a dumb question here, but I still wonder, what would be the lowest tire pressure still rideable? surely it would create much larger contact patch which would imply better grip. but maybe also carcass hardness/softness could be compromised? I'm still building faith and confidence in my cornering speed bc I'm so paranoid about tire loosing grip and going out from under me. or maybe even too much pressure making much smaller patch and compromising grip and traction itself. Is there an ideal contact patch size??
did you find a answer, this is what I'm looking for also.
Another great one Dave! Ironically I was checking tire pressure at the time of this posting! Seriously!!! Perfect timing!
Sir thank you so much ....I will send you the pics, but, most of the friends have told me that it cannot be repaired ...
Love your videos, learning so much. Even learned how to describe what I'm feeling/the bikes feedback. I have noticed you spend most of your time with track settings, I would love to hear your input on street applications, as most of us spend most our time there. Reading tires, suspension set up for canyons vs commuting, Tyre overview, etc.
All of that is in volumes on the DM Tuning phone app which has street, track, race and tire sections. feelthetrack.com/mobile-apps/
Thanks for the kind words - great that you are developing your skills so quickly!
Found the app last night..... Was like Neo from the Matrix, downloading all the new information.
I didn't put Kung Fu in there, but there is a huge amount of other information :) Thanks for supporting the App.
Just to confirm I'm following correctly....if the tires on my tractor (harley davidson Dyna lol) are warm and cuddly to the touch after a 40 minute commute, 90% of which is freeway 80-90mph in southern california, they are not getting hot enough for optimal performance. I should reduce psi by 2, commute again and reevaluate and repeat if necessary. If the tire is too hot to touch for more than a second or so, the tire is too hot and I should increase psi by 2, commute and reevaluate? I want my front and rear tire temps to feel the same, correct ? But the tire pressure may be different between the front and rear to get that temp?
So many variables to consider but I'm having fun trying to dissect everything lol. Your channel is very addicting.
P.s. would it be worth it to have a remote tire reading session with you? Considering the only adjustments I can make are tire pressure and preload in the rear suspension + front if I buy the component ?
Let's continue with the tire tuning prior to the consult. Try lowering pressure and see you much hea you have. Then up the pressure so it is 2-3psi higher to focus the hear into a narrow band. Remember that the front is out in cool air while the rear is both heated by the engine and power from it. Theer will be a difference front to rear.
Thanks for the info. I have a follow up question.
I have a 125cc scooter and i weigh 82kg and always with a 50-70kg passenger, what should be my recommended tire pressures?
Start by reading the sidewall of the tire which clearly states what your maximum pressure can be when cold or hot. Then go straight to maximum and see how you both feel. Lower by 2psi when cold and test again. If lower feels worse, are you willing to try 2psi above the recommended maximum for a short test ride? If that feels better, find tires that allow a maximum higher pressure.
Excellent info
"Spoonable".... nice!
Dave what is your opinion based on your knowledge that you may or may not have about gold wing and Valkyrie riders that put car tires on the rear rim of their gold wings. They claim they get over 25,000 miles out of a tire that costs half of what the correct Dunlop tire costs..Even though those tires are relatively square and the footprint appears to shrink in corners because they’re Leaning over onto an edge..They claim that they feel no adverse effects to handling.
since that is definitely not a tire recommended by Honda and I’m sure that the tire manufacturer won’t condone the use of that car tire on a motorcycle. So how do you determine the air pressure in that tire?
I remember in the 80s, Freddie Spencer and Kenny Roberts were doing tire testing for Goodyear road racing tires. Some of their testing determined that 8 inche wide rear tire is too wide. It takes too much countersteer to get the motorcycle to rotate.. they also determined that 16 inch wheels on the front Which was popular around in 1983 - 1987 .. The Suzuki 650 turbo had a 16 inch front wheel, the Honda interceptor’s, Yamaha put a 16 on their FJ 1100/1200even Moto Guzzi had 16 inch front wheels on their Lemans and Lario models to be trendy..Experts, whoever they are, determine that 16 inch front wheels were too small. They make the bike stand up while braking into corners, It took a lot more countersteer pressure to hold the line in corners with 16s upfront. Yamaha corrected this by going to a larger front wheel and a skinnier front tire on their FJ1200 in 89
So what are your feelings about goldwing and Valkyrie owners putting a car tire on the rear of their motorcycles because of the almost double mileage and much lower cost?
when I was a motorcycle mechanic/here in the United States many states have what is known as a state inspection for cars/trucks motorcycles. Every year, you must get your state inspection done where they test your vehicles emissions/motorcycles and diesels are exempt, and they check your general safety of your vehicle by looking at your brake pads, your tires, make sure all your lights work things like that. My point is,I would not pass a motorcycle that had a car tire installed in the rear. I would be jeopardizing my State inspection license and could possibly be found liable for passing a machine with out of spec tires..
Do you have any experience or have you heard any stories about car tires being used on the rear of gold wings, good or bad?
Using a car tire can invalidate your insurance immediately. For those doing a lot of touring, yes they get far more miles out the rear tire but they are not sportbike aggressive style riders. Pressures? www.goldwingfacts.com/threads/darkside-tire-pressure-experimenting-what-psis-are-you-using.388282/
I have 2022 cbr1000 I've replaced at least 8 back tires I don't burn rubber it's losing rubber dead center on every tire it's been at Honda dealer Suzuki dealer still same thing I've used every brand
Is the wear symmetrical from the center point? 2. Have you checked wheel bearings? 3. Have you had a really good look at shock travel used? 4. Has the shock linkage (all bolts) been cleaned and greased?
Hi Dave, with regard to riding ability am I correct in saying that if your ability is high and you're faster you will set a lower cold pressure and you will get the tyres warmer by riding quicker hence increasing tyre pressure to the required psi for your bike setup. And if you're ability is on the slower side you'll want to set a higher cold psi as you won't be warming the tyres up as much from riding therefore won't get as much of an increase in tyre pressure whilst riding?
Great question. Correct for faster with a soft carcass tire. If you are slower, the higher pressure concentrates the heat into a narrower band to sustain temps.
@@catalystreactionsbw Makes sense! Thanks for the reply!
Can you play with tire PSI to adjust geometry if you have limited suspension adjustment or none at all? If I need a little more rake and trail, could I just run a slightly lower rear tire pressure and maybe a higher front tire pressure? Thanks for the video.
If you want more rake and trail, you can push the forks down to raise the front. You can add preload and compression to the forks as well.
Hi Dave, know this is a great but old thread but just in case you see it, I have a question. Im 70kg and riding a cbr 1100 blackbird. I ride fairly conservative street only. Im running Michelin road 5’s stock sizing but the stiffer GT version. Honda says 42/42 cold. Ambient here ranges 55-85f riding season. Being GT, should pressures be adapted for that? Riding i get the impression tires may be a bit too hard. Doing the palm check they never seem to get more than warm. Other riders of the cbr 1100 on the forums mostly state 42/42 for any tire regardless or there could be performance issues. Any thoughts greatly appreciated. Btw. Running 95 linear springs (stock were 89 progressive) and a Nitro R1 shock. Thanks
I would suggest you test 34 front and 36 rear given your riding choice being conservative. Then test 36/36 then 36/38 and lastly 40/40, all cold pressures. Based on your roads and preferences, you will find the pressures you prefer.
@@catalystreactionsbw thanks Dave!
Hi Dave, i was thinking of changing my Bias tires to Radials on my RE INTERCEPTOR. What would be your advice? Thankyou, Chris.
I would not have a problem with the change other than knowing the tires will bead and seal correctly etc. The big factor will be circumference changes and that will effect geometry as well as radials can be generally softer with the carcass therefore giving you less feedback but more bump compliance.
Thankyou for that, i think i will try to obtain some OEM size Michelin Road Classic with the Silica compound in them. I understand not to change the geometry. Thankyou heaps. Chris
Dave I saw where you mentioned if you are gaining more than 2-3 psi from warmers to track then you are under-inflated off the warmers.
What if you are coming off track at the same psi as off the warmers?
What if you're coming off track at 2-3 psi lower than off the warmers?
What would you do in those situations?
Coming in at the same pressures - all is good. Coming in with less than you went out on = pressure too high, reduce by 1psi and test. Coming in +3 over warmer pressure = underinflated so add 1psi. All subject to pace, diligence and monitoring track temps: davemosstuning.com/?s=tire+pressure
First, appreciate you for your explanations. I am a FJ 09 owner. I am confused about correct tire pressures (same psi's for both tires). My bike weighs 210 kg wet and me 95 kg. My suspensions are stock. I can say that i ride a bit agressively and love cornering too much. The climate is cold in winter and really hot in summer here. What do you suggest for me ?
I live in NZ and have the same conditions. Run your bike with reasonable pressure in the tyres, give them time to warm up, ride as you would normally. When warm, pull over and check as he did with your hand straight away. They should be even front to rear, or close enough. If to cold, let out a couple of pounds, if to hot, put a couple of pounds in. Keep checking until you have the temp you require. I like mine nice and toasty but not hot for the road. Do this on a nice day as you would ride, that's your tyre pressure generally. On a cold day, drop a pound or two.
When ever you pull up and get off, put your hand on your tyres, you will soon learn what you like. No-one can tell you what the best is really, it's a bit subjective, style of riding etc. Get in contact with your bike, put your hands on her, she'll tell you what she needs.
Again very helpful thanks Dave!
Hi Dave, sir I have my gsx s1000 2019 my weight is 195lbs. Ive got Mitas super force plus, what will be my tyre pressure by cold when i used to ride at a twisty mountain ?
2.5 to 2.65 bar cold for mountain attack riding to maximize the contact patch.
Very nice video! What pressure would you use on a 20-25celcius trackday for a pirelli diablo rosso corsa 2 and what on a 10-15celcius yrack day?
I have no idea what track you ride at and your ability based on group you ride in and knowledge of that track. General rule is 26-28 rear hot and 33 to 38 front hot. For 10-15C I would use 1-2psi less for the front and 1psi less for the rear.
@@catalystreactionsbw i am in the medium group. So if the day is colder you use less hot pressure and if the day is warmer you use more hot presure ??
@@nikos.kouts3 Your carcass with Rosso II yes correct.
Hi Dave, I'm a street rider, I enjoy riding in the Twisties, what tire pressure should I go for? I'm on irc roadwinner tyres and my bike is Yamaha R25 and it comes with non adjustable front fork and monoshock with basic preload adjustments
You start at 32/32 cold front and rear and ride. Then test 30/30, then test 34/34. What pressure felt best for you on your roads at your pace.
@@catalystreactionsbwlast time I started at 36 front cold and 38 cold rear, I had a good ride, this advice I followed from one of your videos and this tyre pressure helped me to ride with chicken strips until I learn how to use the tyre till the end. I felt very confident with this tyre pressure actually and my rear monoshock absorber comes with 7 steps and 3rd level is the standard setting, I increased it to 5 and felt more comfortable, at that time my weight was around 85kg but recently I lost 15kg to 20kg and my current weight is around 65kg, now when I ride the bike I feel like being thrown off on bumpy road and I ride with low tyre pressure 27 front cold and 27 rear cold
@@Nathan2692 15kg means a different and softer shock setting for preload and compression (if you have it).
I like how you were like fuck that train we getting this done.
Nice video by the way 👍
Good video! May i ask something in addition: is this PSI gain rule valid for, on one hand, different tire size (e.g. font as well as rear or rear 200/60 as well as rear 190/55 size), and, on the other hand, valid for different brands, e.g. Bridgestone Slick as well as Pirelli Slick?
Thanks for the kind words. Irrespective of size, brand or compound, this applies at the track!
What do you recommend for very hot weather think thunderhill at 100°
East or West track? A, B or C pace? What motorcycle, what lap time? What Brand, model and Compound? Stock bike or modified? There are many questions to ask prior to making accurate recommendations.
Is it worth using a tyre pressure monitoring system? Or aren't these accurate enough? I noticed that one model I looked at listed a variance of +/- 1.5psi...
If your brain needs that information or a tool to provide you that information and you have the time to observe it when you ride, sure........ Information is power, so leveraging that can lead to you riding more smoothly via confidence through knowledge.
Just bought a pair of RS11’s for my Fireblade. Any recommendations for fast road tyre pressures ? I’m 170lbs and only ride mountains... Electronic suspension Axwell 👍👍(SP)
Start at 34 cold front and rear and assess gain cold to hot. 4psi is a good target.
Dave Moss Tuning Thanks for the reply.. I’m 32 front and rear at the moment. I’ll try your recommendation thanks
What temperature range should we be looking for using a pyrometer and measuring hot off the track? What about a surface temperature range if we're using an infrared thermometer?
Fast in lap, person right at the start of the hot [its:- 170-190F via pyrometer, 18-200F with infra red for surface temps.
Thanks Dave!
Hi, I'm using Michelin power 5 on my gsr 600. I'm 75 kg and I ride alone. What's the correct psi for power 5? I have 34 front and 38 rear. Thanks
If you ride legal speed limits on public roads,. 36/38 would be a good all around pressure for Summer given your light weight. Spring would be two psi lower for colder temperatures.
Hi Dave, thanks for the video. I still would like to make a point clear. For the same tyre, same rider, same bike, same suspension setting and track, how would you change the pressure with cold and warm weather? (Same compound) and how if it is cold and you have only a too soft compound available? Thanks
1. Emotional duress of a cold day means riding slower so you need to change pressures to sustain correct heat in the carcass. You go higher and lower to see what works for you. 2. Riding on warmer days inspires more speed, so pressures need to control heat in the tire as you go faster. Again, go higher and lower to see what works for you.
Thanks for the reply. Imagining to be going at the same pace, would you adapt the pressure according to the tarmac/air temperature? Thanks again
In that case to Tarmac temps not ambient temps.
You are a Legend 🤯
Thank you! Glad you enjoy the videos.
does anyone know how to calculate the pressure needed in the tire according with the rider weight? my tires were clean before and now i had a track day and they look terrible i think i was running too low in the pressure i weight 150 pounds and i think i had 25psi hot in the rear and 28 in the front. if that helps. thank u in advance if u can answer.
What tires did you use. General standard pressures are 30/30 front and rear when cold. You should see a 4-6psi gain at the track. Street riding at normal pressures will clean the tires up again within 100 miles in most cases
Old post I know, but running bran new or about 200 miles on them now PP3's on a 2013 ninja 636, 158 pounds and have been running 28/30 seems to be the sweet spot or am I doing it wrong. This is cold temp at start and weather is around 78 degrees no track twisties and street riding only. Thanks if you or anyone sees this.
Doing something is always better than nothing. Check your pressure gains and on the road you should see 3-4psi over cold. That tells you that your pace and pressures along with suspension settings are working well.
2:55 so a bigger patch actually could overheat the tire? Hence the add more air.
bigger friction surface, more heat
what's the best tire pressure for 110/70-17 and 150/60-17 for cornering and city driving?
The best tire pressure is the one you find via testing based on your speed, ability and if you have a soft or hard carcass tyre. You need a Summer and a Winter pressure as ambient temps are very different.
Dave Moss Tuning can you provide an example psi for that sizes? Thanks!
@@kcv7532 34/34 cold
Dave Moss Tuning if warm sir what psi?
@@kcv7532 start at 34/34, test 36/36 and 38/38 and see what works best for you. davemosstuning.com/mosscast-motorcycle-tire-pressure-set-and-forget/
Awesome advice thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
what tyre pressure should I use on a 5th gen vfr800 for road use and what are the best sport touring tyres at the minute for this bike? looking at Pirelli angel gt2. thanks
I will be testing GT2 in a couple of weeks. The old GT I used 36 front and rear cold. Michelin Rs will be the next tire I test and that gets excellent reviews.
I didn't find the the app on Google play store, is it available elsewhere?
The App has been closed as no one was using it for over 12 months.
Why does the pressure rise another 2 psi off the warmers, if the warmers get the tire up to 80C and the running temp is supposed to be around 80C?
Warmers are static, then you add in dynamic loads which increases internal pressure.
Ambient temps in CA are getting into 90s F. But my bt-023s run about 112F after a good 100 mile ride. Too cold?
Sounds like you might be over inflated slightly but are you checking it in the middle of the ride where you are going at your pace? If not, tires cool off quickly.
@@catalystreactionsbw negative after a 1 mile through town trip. Will check in use today. 40 psi cold f/r has been decent tread wear but I am not the expert.
@@catalystreactionsbw today they were 123F immediately checking.
@@mordantly that is good, 150F would be the maximum
@@catalystreactionsbw Thank you. I'll drop a couple psi tomorrow and see what happens. If I only knew a 50th of what you do I would really kick my skills up.
Dave, is the +4 off the warmers plus an additional +2 off the track the rule of thumb for basically every tire and every track? If so, is that regardless of all outside forces like track temp, wind, sun vs clouds, etc?
And if so, is it the same for rain tires?
Thanks!
If warmers are working at 100% capacity yes +4 will be the norm if you follow the correct process and required times (brands and models within a brand are different). If you ride at 75-80% of your pace you should see another +2 as you can sustain and build more heat in the carcass and pressure. Riding slower might yield the same pressure as the warmers. Too slow and you might not hold +4.
+Dave Moss Tuning
Awesome Dave. Thank you so much for the information!
I was told that race wets don't need warmers at all?? Because you're using them on a cold wet track, any heat will quickly be lost. Plus the tyre build is not only designed to disperse water, but also generate the heat needed through movement of the tread. Wondering if this is true?
Wet tires get very hot indeed due to the softness of the rubber. Standing water is needed to keep them at operating temps. Warming up rain tires to 140F prior to a race is an emotional decision or set choice to quiet your brain.
Dave - what pressures do you recommend for Diablo Rosso Corsa 2s? I am reading from 32f 28r track HOT to something way higher from a pirelli guy at a Polish moto publication. Thanks!
Track or road? Fast or slow track? Cool or warm weather or downright boiling? Fast road or slow? Solo or 2 up with luggage? Quick blast or 4-7 hours a day in the saddle?
@@catalystreactionsbw faster intermediate track riding hoping to get into advanced this season. 2012 street triple r. Ambient temps between 75 and 85
@@MikSane Hot on track 34 front and 32 rear
@@catalystreactionsbw thank you Dave!! Will be trying that next track day. I ran 30 30 cold and the front was hard to push past a certain lean angle last track day. Thanks again!!
Hi @Dave .... What about road tyre pressure? Tracer 900 manual says 36/42 ... Now i tried 32/36 but havent felt that grip improvement but i ve felt handling lost in low speed corners. Any advice? Riding on michelin pilot road 5 2ct
If you are solo, test 36/36, then 38/38 cold front and rear with the MPR5
Will do. Thank you for your time sir.
Hi Dave. Just out of interest do you work with supermoto bikes? Would you be able to review tyre wear patters and types of riding.
Thanks
Absolutely!
email then to dave@davemosstuning.com
Dave android app link not working. Is the android DMT app available?
The App was dropped several years ago as literally no one was using it so we took all the videos and articles and put them on the website. May be time to get the App going again...... Very specific content for chassis geometry, suspension tuning and tyre wear examples.
I have a query I used to shift to one gear up while slowing down I close the throttle then shift up then pick the gear I am on before does it really make the transition smoth
Minimizing the time between shifting is where smoothness exists, so timing the throttle, clutch and shifter is no different on a bike to a car - it just a lot less time on a bike. As with any skill, practice makes perfect and every shift I do is done with intent so I focus on the skill, then get back to using my eyes. In time the skill becomes the same as breathing and is taken care of by the subconscious.
Hi Dave I have kawasaki Z1000R model 2017. I don’t know how to set suspension.. can you teach?
Via the content in this channel or via 1-1 video remote tuning service that I offer. Start with this video: ruclips.net/video/3FeZJRiAXRk/видео.html
Hi. Im using rosso 3 on my r1. My weight is 105kg. What are the best psi for the rosso 3?
Depends of your level of aggression and if your bike is set up for you correctly. I prefer 38/38 cold if you ride solo.
@dave moss tuning , so i just bought recently dunlop q3+ for my bike . i want to run a lower psi on the street for grip, as of now no track just street. i want to run cold34f 33r or cold33f 32r. once warm the first one will be 36/37f 35/36r or 35/36f 34/35r. good idea for hard street? the idea of a higher pressure gives me the woes
Depends on your weight, your bike weight and your ability. higher pressures = greater tire stability and grip verses lower pressure = more flex and irregular contact patch size. If you are over 200lbs and quick 30-34 will create a possible weave mid corner from tire flex, so start at 34/34 cold and ride. Let the tires cool off and then go to 36/36 to see how the handling improves. If you are under 140lbs and enjoy riding rather than be aggressive, those pressures may work well.
bikes 380lbs dry about 420ish full. im 185, so 34 cold front n rear? im agressive when safe but i can boogie for sure. i bought the q3+ to be a sticky street tire
start with 34 for one ride. The next time you go out try 36. If the bike handles better, the following ride try 38. Define what you and your bike need by testing :)
Does this apply to my 883 Sportster, its got slip ons???
Hi Dave, I am 160lbs and I ride a KTM RC390 with stock metzeller tyres, I set 28/28 psi for the track, do you think it is wrong?
Your bike needs to be set up for your weight etc, so I will assume that has ll been done. For pressures, you need to see how much you gain from cold to hot. 5-7psi is ideal for the track and those pressures will change as ambient temps warm up. You will need a morning and an afternoon pressure.
Dave Moss Tuning I only can adjust the rear shock preload, I have stock front forks. you said 5-7 psi more or less starting from 28 psi ??
If you start with 27 or 28 you should see +5-7psi cold to hot. If you gain more than 7psi you are under inflated.
Can’t find the app in App Store
It had no users for 2 years, so all the content was moved to the DMT Total Access section of the website: www.davemosstuning.com
ir probe works for my bernaise..
Hi dave i have a ducati evo 848 2013, when a go to ride i feel it very hard it has bridgestone rs10 rear 28 psi front 28 psi. My question is are they ok with that pressure?
Have you had the suspension set for you? The rear shock on this bike was ridiculously stiff. If you have not (especially with rebound and sag) the bike will be very harsh to ride even if you experiment with tire pressure. I have run the Bridgestone that low on the road but to me it felt mushy and imprecise so my minimum pressure was 32 front and rear.
@@catalystreactionsbw Dave Moss Tuning hi good night dave, i haven't, here in México city nobody knows exactly how to do. Yes it feels very hard. I've tried to do but i dont feel great difference. I'll ride with 32 psi. Thanks very much.
You should be able to buy an Ohlins shock preload tool like this one that will work: www.motosport.com/product/?adpos=1o1&cc=us&creative=271546473279&device=c&gclid=CjwKCAjw_b3cBRByEiwAdG8WqlbtYxlunfkBFikFzNlfQ1RV6mkYL14aSNqO0VkOMzjYE8_7Wl_idRoC1_kQAvD_BwE&key=Ohlins-Shock-Spanner-Wrench&matchtype=&mrkgadid=3291760320&mrkgcl=500&network=g&product_id=OHL0016-X001-Y001&pssource=true&rkg_id=0&segment=badger-street
Is the tuning app still available? I can’t seem to find it..
It is only available on Apple devices and at present is being updated. I hope to have it back on line by the end of June.
Dave Moss Tuning brilliant thanks 👍
Great vid but I never will go on a track so 32/32 it is thanks and ride safe and remember to smile there watching 👽
Cold Canadian 😁👍spy orbs 👽👊🏁
dave I just have a R3. I put diablo rosso II's on it 110 and 140 on the rear. the dealership put 28 psi in both. and I found they were really squishy. and the rear crown got flat really quickly which suggest too lower pressure.
I put 36 in the rear (stock for my bike's michelin pilot street tyres) and 30psi front. is that alright?
Start with 38 rear and 36 front and ride. The following day go to 36/34 and ride, then the following day day 34/32. Which one felt best overall conditions, pavement types etc? Define your tire pressure :)
@Round Motovlog It is for any motorcycle an any tire. Find your own pressures :)
@Round Motovlog if you feel that is needed so you feel safe - yes. If not and you judge your work as being excellent, no.
@Round Motovlog Foot peg placement gives you comfort and clearance. No plans for Malaysia but I know there is a big DMT following there. What is the best time of year to visit?
@Round Motovlog we can communicate via email $40 or video $80 to get you the settings you nee for the R25
Thanks for the video Dave. The other day I just pulled out my bike which has simple fairly new Pirelli Diablo on it, and my rear tire was at 26/28 PSI instead of the usual 34/36 I have on it. Air temp. was 70/72 F. and on a simple 90 degrees street curve, without leaning really extreme, I felt the rear tire slip on my 2015 Yamaha FZ07 (no computer on it). I caught it up but I felt uncomfortable it happened.
If I may ask, would you think that tire being at 26 PSI could be what gave me that, or do you think it could be the slight tire coating film on the new tires which didn't grip when I leaned ? Or both ?..
May be also the basic Pirelli Diablo grip isn't the best either ? I usually felt that the softer the rubber, usually the better the grip. I used to have some very soft tires on an old Kawasaki 750 Turbo, I don't remember the brand unfortunately, but I remember I could lean that bike quite down, even touching footpegs which are rather high on the 750 Turbo. And here I don't feel the same confidence, when today's little sporty bikes should lean nice and easy, no ?..
I really don't know what to think here, and any suggestion welcomed...
I am missing your weight, if you set sag and how much shock travel you are using. Normally lower pressure creates a much bigger contact patch and with new tyres, that should create a wobble at worst via carcass flex. I would try 30/30 then 36/36 as comparisons. As this was a one off it may well have been something on the road.
@@catalystreactionsbw Thank you Dave, I will try the 30/36. Best.
I can’t find the app can you spell it out i can not under stand the words so well
Sorry to say the App has been removed from Apple and Android platofrms as there were literally no users for two years.
0:58 Did he say What'syour Abilicy ?
what about tire pressure on road?With 140kg load what must do?17inch rims front and back.Daily use.
thanks!
Depends on the bike, tire brand, carcass and speed you ride and most importantly, it depends on whether the bike is set up for you to cope with the roads you use. With your weight, test 34/34 front and rear, then 36/36 and 38/38.
@@catalystreactionsbw really thanks for fast advice!
How do I find this app?
The App ended as it had zero users for 2 years. Now all the content is on the DMT website: www.davemosstuning.com
Basically a very very very very long way of saying "it depends" and "go visit my site and pay" 🙄🤣
Shame so much of the information provided was completely disregarded. Yes - I own a business and give a lot of information for free here.
@2:46 The difference between common sense and puppycock is if you cannot explain the former, it is probably the later. :)
Cant find that app anywhere for android
Sadly it was discontinued due to zero users over a two year period. All the content was moved to the DMT website.
I love trains ans motorcycle.
Clearly you’re knowledgeable but you gotta start talking where us mere mortals can understand lol.. like a simple cold weather go higher psi warm weather go lower psi and then an explanation!! Unfortunately not everyone knows what you’re even saying.. kinda gotta break down for us dummys in these videos.. Thanks
Thanks for your contribution. Comments are noted.
strange, I didn't get the feeling he was explaining it in a overly complicated way but ok, it seems pretty clear it's just that it's not an easy answer since there are many factors to take in. I guess it's not something you'll get the feeling for right away, you just have to ride your bike in different conditions to get to know how it behaves
We need AI to determine what the best temperature should be programmed by the best tire race teams who donate their information.
Teams deal with professional riders who are very fast, and we need to find our own pressures based on our speed and track temperatures that day.
@@catalystreactionsbw It would be nice to have programmed AI that tells us what to do while out on track as it would be very expensive to be part of a race team or hire a coach. It could tell us something like the range to be in and what to look for. The super custom-tailored stuff should be for teams and coaches but all the basics should at least be understood like why not to run slicks that aren't off the warmers on the streets because they are harder than DOT but some people have no idea.
Anyone can tell me I have 1000cc RR ...have broke it's main frame
How it can be recovered????
If the frame broke at one of the key welds without the bike being crashed, a precision welder might be able to redo the weld. If the bike was crashed and the frame broke, it is unlikely that you can get that repaired. If you get the frame fixed, the bike will still need to be measured.
Marster of the dark arts,l ike that hand ,heat gauge ,on the road in Australia i always run low ,a big footprint ,but no give,,...i see what thay mean when thay say DMT incesses your consciousness ☘💪
Very confusing when the tyre manufacturer and bike handbook have radically different psi recommendations.
You're voice puts me to SLEEP ?
FAst is me :)
Brad Frey shut up ure slow and u know it lad
I can't place his accent, sometimes he sounds English, but other times American 🤔
Born in Manchester UK, Live in California, travel to many countries = "mongrel accent" :)
Dave Moss Tuning Haha that'll be it then! 😁
I thought he might be an aussie
I'm Polish and I always thought your accent is more English then American now I know why . You need to pop in to UK for track day suspension set up I be there 😀
fix your Android app so I can but the real user content
I have no idea what you are asking me to do with the App. At present there are no bugs to fix via user input. Please clarify your statement. Thank you.
thanks for the reply. in clarification, the app will not allow me to pay for content. once I get to the point of paying, the app just stops. thanks for your time.
"so you have to use some common sense" - I'm a noob then I was told to use some common sense from this jerk. 😅
Which jerk are you referring to?