Replacing the 300Tdi hub, bearings, stub and CV due to neglect - full long video
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- Опубликовано: 15 авг 2020
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Britannica Restorations Ltd
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NEW! My own Subscription/Donation service at affordable rates!
britrest.com/subscriptions/
Special tools, stickers and old stock parts!
www.britrest.com/shop
www.paypal.me/britrest2018
I guess im asking the wrong place but does someone know of a way to log back into an instagram account??
I somehow lost the password. I would appreciate any help you can give me!
@Judson Ishaan instablaster ;)
@Izaiah Avery thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site on google and Im trying it out atm.
I see it takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Izaiah Avery It did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thank you so much you saved my account :D
@Judson Ishaan You are welcome xD
Thanks for the tips Mike. My front axle has a lot of play in it. To make sure the play was only in the cv's, shaft's and drivemembers I removed the swivel balls then I took two pieces of 18mm plywood, drilled a hole the size of the axle shaft in each piece of plywood with a hole saw, I then cut them into two halfs and used g-clamps to clamp the plywood to axles and more g-clamps to clamp the plywood to the axle housing. Then checked that the amount of play at the propshaft was the same as the amount of play at the rear propshaft.
Better entertainment than a Sunday afternoon movie and pop corn.
Really enjoyed this Mike.
Thank you. 😊
Glad you enjoyed it
Hello mike we watch all your videos. I have just received my memory stick from you brilliant bit of kit thank you from Yorkshire👍
Fantastic!
Another great vlog. I watch all of these so i'll jog my own memory when I come to do a job in my own 110 when it needs it. 👍🏻 Brilliant.
Please do!
Great informative vlog Mike! I have been around Defenders for over 10 years mostly using them due to my work but love working on my Tdci every moment I get some things I can't do due to the lack of knowledge and experience but slowly your giving me the hope and knowledge to try now so thanks👍
Absolutely
Love to watch good old basic engineering
Sunday school masterclass.
Thanks Mike informative as always.👍👍👍👍
Thanks for watching!
@@BritannicaRestorations love watching your video's.......saves having to talk to her indoors.......🔨💫😡😷🚑🏥😂😂😂😂
Very good tutorial on this job Mike, thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for a great video Mike ...... Spanish F1 was on TV but I decided to watch this instead .....it was the right choice!
Good choice!
I was all set to write mean things about your ball-joint removal method, just give it a tap and out it pops. I spent a good hour trying to drop my bottom ball-joint (broke a spring on my fweeloader 2). Well I was belting away and the thing wouldn't move, nor the track rod end. But Mike said... grrrr. So I came in for the evening and watched your videos again, especially the rotten Dodge. You didn't belt it, you WHELTED it, I was getting close to ordering a splitter as mine was too narrow, the F2 needs a 27mm jaw gap. Next morning armed with knowledge I grabbed my lump hammer and WHELTED the bastid, plop! Same with the trackrod end and the other side of the car as I changed the springs and struts while it was apart. I have also concluded that you shouldn't do F2 springs with compressors, I have done many springs and have two decent sets of compressors, but I ended up taking them to a garage with a hydraulic press. These springs would hold an Atlantean bus level! So thanks for your tip Mike, just wish you made it clear not to tickle them, a good swing and out they'll come. I'll never use destructive splitters again.
Excellent!
Cheers Mike from sunny England!
Nice day here too!
Another great video 👍. Keep up the good work Mike.
Always!
Britpart s CVS are surprisingly good. No idea about their flanges, but I have my suspicions. As long as they fit snugly, though, then if they’re soft, you know they won’t wear the shaft splines.
The buckle in the dirt guard ring was probably made when somebody used crow bars to lever the hub off after the bearing failed.
With all the luck you used up with first-time wins in this video, I wouldn’t recommend standing under a vehicle on your Chinese two-post lift until you’ve had some real struggles and bad luck!
good video as always.. I recognise the t shirt I've one in red from the guy making the trike from a discovery.. 👍
Very cool!
Thanks Mike, well timed video, I have this to do as soon as parts arrive, started as pads and discs but once the rubber cap came off I was faced with rusty dust and a wrecked cv spline, on the other side the oil seal has gone behind the swivel ball letting axle oil into the cv and then on through the stub axle seal, at least the wheel bearing and flange splines are good on this side cos of all the oil ! Funny how jobs escalate ..... 😒
Yes an avalanche of issues!
Great video mike. Learn so much of your videos 😀😀
Glad you like them!
You’re right. Bearing spinning on hub. I think Benny Hill was original owner of this vehicle and Jackie wright was his mechanic. Top work as always Mike! Now to stop watching vids and get the new lift pump in my 110. Thanks again for all the helpful tips.
These vehicles have never been touched for years -this is what gives Defenders a bad name
Very informative as always mike 👍👍👍👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Nice to see a job done correctly Mike, that's a job well done so you will only have to do it once. Great watching you on the working tools Mike. Just a little thing from an old fart, if its sharp, its a chisel, but if its blunt its a caulking tool. Did this job for a lad on Friday, I like it when they want to learn, makes it all worth while. Best wishes from God's county.
Pity the engine is not going to be done right, but I had the axle parts in stock
Working to a budget now
Brilliant mate, great vid 👍👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Mike thanks for another great video. I’ve been watching for years and it was the water ingress video that first got me hooked. I’ve been battling leaking hub seals for a number of years and just had the same job on the rear of my 90, all new parts except for the hub which was unworn. Sadly I notice it’s just started leaking again after about thirty miles! I’m English but I live in NY and imported my ex Royal Marines winterised 90 with me and have spent the last 18 months restoring it. I’m even tempted to drive to Canada to get you to fix all the corners properly!!!
Check the axle breathers are not blocked - not just a quick look but strip and inspect - I have seen lots of rust in the fittings that block up the holes in the bolt to the axle - We get a lot of issues with insects sticking larvae in the tubes!
Thanks Mike, I did clean the banjo bolts already but I’ll have a deeper dive into the axle.
Peter, if you used a Britpart seal, that would be your problem, in fact, it’s an oxymoron. Corte could and Angus make good seals.
Nick - Yes I’ve been using Corteco!
Peter Warner, in that case, blocked breathers or a worn seal land (the polished surface the seal runs on) are likely candidates. Any bearing play will cause the seal to oscillate, and that could also be a cause.
Did you check the seal seat? If it’s scored or pitted, oil could leak around the outside diameter of the seal.
Sunday School with Mike .. that Landy was so neglected / abused i'm amazed it still functioned .. bet it was glad to be cared for
Neds a lot more work..
Enjoyed that one Mike. I must pick up one of those torque wrenches, nice a quick compared to my normal ones.
Can you do all the AvE fans a favour, when you reach the desired torque, just say click!
Will do!
@@BritannicaRestorations isn't the torque setting from the bearing nut 50Nm instead of 65Nm you mentioned?
Hi Mike I stripped my project 110 and a spare axle and found 2 hubs to have hair line cracks were the outer bearing race sits. Have you seen this before? Also thank you very much for your door alignment videos. Game changer. Now have a spray painted length of wood cut to 34 3/4".
Seen the hubs beaten up but not cracked!
If I remember correctly the roller bearing must be fitted with the serial number outward. I can't see why, but I did what I was told.
Great video.
Thanks Mike.
I do not think it makes that much of a difference - some say the number side is harder, but I doubt it - think about it - how would they do it?
@@BritannicaRestorations Maybe thicker but harder I'm not sure of. It was only the second time in 20 years that I did it, so I just followed the instructions. Anyway, have an awesome Monday Mike.
G'Day Mike
You sure as hell can tell that you could do that job blind folded! :)
I'm not as good as that yet, but it does feel at times like a broken record lol.
Take care matey.
Be a bit hard to read the torque wench but I should give it a go!
Hi Mike to be honest the CV joints from Brittpart are pretty good there are some tests and other references online that give them very good notes, I have one in the left front for 150k Kilometers in without any problems
Yes I have not had one back - a genuine one is £174!
The best!
Thanks!
hi mike, its always refreshing to see a lot years of experience in action! one question: is it necesary to readjust the bearings after some miles?
Sometimes yes - jack up the front end and check for play - sometimes they do settle down
The hub nut socket you used to drive in the inboard seal is for a DANA 44, just about every American 4WD up through the late 90's.
Perfect for bearings!
What clean job! ( I meant messy) But result looks nice! DO I need hydraulic press to dismantle those component?
I'm guessing by the video today most of the bolts are 65 newton meters great video today thanks
Looks like it - calliper are more
If you left out the stub axle seal would cv grease not find its way past the needle roller and lube the flange splines? Know people do it in the back axles by removing the stub seal and changing the rear hub grease seal for an oil seal but the front being grease from cv outwards wouldn't need as much changing. Just a thought.
I’m at a bit of a loss with mine I’ve had all the drivers side rebuilt with new a swivel ball new bearings I jacked it up last week and I’ve still got play in the wheel someone said it could be the stub axle that’s worn I replaced the bearings again I thought it might’ve been cheap bearings changed them and it’s still the same it did tighten up a bit and made a bit of a difference. Could you give me some advise on what to do next it’s a 89 90
Brilliant video as usual, quick question I'm just about to do my wheel bearings and they are on the newer td5 type of bearing spacers and I baught new bearings and the spacer doesnt work, the bearings must be slightly different in size. So I baught the same kit as your using and it only has 1 hub nut. Can I use a stake nut and the lock nut on the inside? Or do I need a proper nut on the inner side of the washer? I couldn't find it online anywhere thanks. sam
Sam - the Td5 has a spacer between the bearings - this was the same kit 300Tdi and Td5 so you use the old spacer and the bearings should be set - torque the single nut up and stalk it over
Now I am not to familiar with the Td5 hubs so I would have to do a bit of research, but if you remove the spacer you will need 2 x nuts and a tin lock washer
But as I said I need to verify this so do not take my word for gospel truth!
Mike, 17:53 or thereaboot...
You mention one side of the spline doesn't wear out because it's constantly in grease. How come the other side isn't in grease? TIA FROM A COUNTRY IN EUROPE WHICH DOESNT HAVE QUARANTINE NONSENSE missing Yorkshire already...
the diff side is in oil = the hub end is in grease which dries out
Super
Thanks!
👏👏👏👏
Another great video, Can I ask how tall are those wonderful axle stands/supports and can you work on the Lang Rover without bending your knees ??
I think they are 1 metre
@@BritannicaRestorations Thanks for the reply, how on earth do you get the Land rover on to them? Large jack or ramps?...Reason I ask is I have really bad knees and anything to make working on the the Land Rover easier would be great. Perhaps you could a film on so of your gear that you use......I love the videos
Hey Mike is it necessary to bleed through the brakes or is cracking the nipple enough to get the air out
Yes, you can usually crack off the bleed screw as long as the reservoir is full
An interesting fact about the chainsaw....
The origin is debated, but a chainsaw-like tool was made around 1830 by the German orthopaedist Bernhard Heine.
Looks like it was developed for cutting bone..
Great video Mike. Wish this was released two weeks ago when I did the front end of my puma 110. Exactly the same. However, the rumble that I thought was wheel bearings still exists! Any ideas?
Were the stubs good? Any play on the wheel?
@@BritannicaRestorations All good; as new. Only a 30k mile car! Some people are suggesting the prop UJs. I wondered if it was a CV, as I also have a clonk when steering goes to full right lock. Or worse still, something in the diff.
Sounds like a CV - maybe worth a look!
Hi Mike my 1987 110 doesn’t have a needle roller bear ring inside the stub axle is this normal?
I think early ones had bushes
Hi Mike. I've been looking at one of those DeWalt 3/8 impact wrenches for a while. Good to see yours is good, what voltage did you go for? Thanks, Richard
20 volt
I like it - not a heavy as a Milwaukee 1/2 drive, so quite versatile - battery seems to last forever!
@@BritannicaRestorations Thank you for the advice. Looks like 18v is the closest we can get in the UK, definitely will not got for the 12v ones then. Great advice on oiling splines by the way.
Great video as always, btw do you have the part numbers for those CV kits?
The CV is sold on its own but there is a stub kit and a bearing kit - what would you like?
@@BritannicaRestorations if you got both numbers that would be brilliant :)
Brilliant video Mike. I replaced my stub shaft seal on my 1980s defender, however when I put the drive flange on the axle was too short and would not pull out far enough for me to fit the circlip at the end.
Can you help?
Do you have the correct flange? Are you sure the shaft is correctly located in the stub? Is the stub straight with the axle tube - in line?
Thanks for the reply,
I believe the shaft is seated correctly, and I used the original flange and shaft.
Would threading a bolt into the shaft and then trying to pull it out with a larger amount of force be a good idea?
It should be a sliding fit
Ok, thankyou for the reply👍
How did you get t he front end so high in the air and those extra long stands??
Fork lift
@@BritannicaRestorations that’s cheating lol
Cheers Mike
Mine has leather boots on the swivels all tied up with leather string..... does it mean it's ex military or AA or summat?
It's a 1990 factory V8 snd looks like it was yellow in a past life.
Best, Kev
Sounds like ex MoD
Mike you rule. ;-)
Thanks Mike - nice and clear as usual. Just one question: Which way round does the seal inside the stub hub go? I’ve identified the right diameter one but couldn’t quite make out which way round it should be.
@@davidurwin3835 😉🤣
Are the britpart stub axles any good?
They seem to be within specs - materials - not sure
Did you change the differential oil?
It looks like it has a lot of water in there.
I am now on a budget with this job - maybe next time
@@BritannicaRestorations What seriously ?. you must have some used gear oil that's in better condition than whats in that diff ,at least drain it out get rid of the water and any bits of metal . put what's left back in won't need that much to top it up . It's a messy job you can add pair of gloves to the job the ones you didn't use while doing the rest of it. Joe King.
Over next doors fence later. 😂😂
I will have to ring the council = there is oil and rags everywhere now - it is devaluing my property!
Some folk just have no respect !!
The new caps split in a week and shims about £6
fire44x, aftermarket caps will split that fast, but genuine ones usually last OK.
Hey mike would like to know people experiences with theae chineese bearings. Maybe for a local car around town etc. Used for work? Who cares as long as they are greased/oiled well. Any people on here with ok or bad experiences?
Good question! I think they are OK otherwise suppliers would not stock them due to the number of returns. Specs seem to be ok but materials? Not sure
Many bearing fails are down to bad fitting and not enough grease = the grease sachets provided with Britpart kits are not enough in my opinion, which is why I use my own grease -never overfill a bearing - no more than 75% of the cavity with grease or on high speed applications can lead to overheating
They’re never worth the initial saving. They wear out fast and the consequences of a failed bearing can be serious if you’re at high speed when it lets go. So much Britpart stuff is faulty, but people seldom demand refunds as they think it’s cheap enough to not be worth the fight. That’s how they get away with it. In theory, there would be liability for substandard parts, but when the accidents happen, the owner is often not around afterwards to tell investigators which company supplied the defective parts, or they no longer have the receipts to prove it. A classic case for that is the Britpart steering relays for Series vehicles; they’re notorious for shearing, but since they’re unbranded, how would it be proven in court that Britpart supplied them? I suspect that is a large part of why they’re unbranded.
Have you ever put grease nipples on end flanges ?
No
Timken bearings man, nothing else! Oh well, his money
As I mentioned this is now a budget repair
@@BritannicaRestorations under no illusions that you're doing what the customer has asked for, regardless of advice given 😉
How do ya know what Australia sounds like? Lol.
Yer man's tyre in the back ground is showing some uneven wear, Mike...
The vehicle had been lifted with a forklift and bent the tie rod
Passed inspection, drove on regardless
Now replaced
I really don't understand JLR's policy. I agree that the Defender concedes nothing to unnecessary luxury given the concept behind the vehicle. But that parts of the chassis, hardware, bumpers of a vehicle that should defy time rust after less than three years of more than comfortable use, it makes no sense. Does JLR rely heavily on the new "Defender"? I see the future of this company very bleak, and not only because of the international economic crisis. Thanks Nigel!
I think I mentioned the same on a past video - JLR relay on its heritage, not on current products
@@BritannicaRestorations
Yes, I was wrong to post the comment, it was for another video. Anyway congratulations for the work and for the video!
Mike has just demonstrated why it's a lousy idea to replace the rubber brake hoses with those snazzy stainless steel braided jobs which seem to be so popular these days.
Indeed I cannot see the point - rubber hose in good order are ok for LR use - maybe a different thing on a race track
@@BritannicaRestorations Yup and you sure can't nip them with locking pliers (as you did) so you have to drain down all the hydraulic oil every time you work on the brakes. Big pain that.
I have them on my 109 (Discovery brake system) and they make the system really work well. They don’t get stretched with the pressure, so they perish more slowly and have far better longevity in addition to making sure all the pressure goes to the pistons instead of swelling the hoses. But yes, it is a pain not being able to camp them. I puts a thin sheet of plastic under the reservoir cap to create a vacuum, which slows the drain while I disconnect the hose and fit a bung, which is just a union with a cut, squashed and soldered end of brake line. Works well enough to stop any leaks while working on one corner.
Doing a grand job there but why are you all covered with fluff and hair have you been up to no good.
Lol! That's Bob, my cat - he likes to have a nap on my tee shirts!
It’s such a shame, why can’t people pay less for the vehicle and more on the maintenance. Defenders have such a bad reputation for reliability and it’s usually the owners fault!
You have that right!
Pftttt, that’s a whipper snipper NOT a chain saw. Call yourself a mechanic. Hahahahahahahahaha.