I use my hori hori for everything! Chop n' drop weeds/garden plants, weeding, digging holes for transplants & bulbs, cutting garden twine, etc. I think the straight edge side is for chopping almost like a machete, but just hold the top of plants with your hand while chopping with the other.
Great advice! I hate seeing examples of plants/trees that were planted without fixing this problem. I've had trees that had girdling roots around the base of them...someone in the past took the easy way out. They suffer their whole life from being strangled. Thanks for your shared wisdom.
Thanks very much for your concise explanation and recommendations! I'm trying to rescue a plant that I just inherited from my grandparents. Several other channels came up first in the search results and it's a lot harder to discern good advice on RUclips nowadays. Glad I kept on looking and found you. Your channel looks great. I will be checking out your other videos!
Thank you! I have a Yucca plant that’s been in its 5 gallon nursery pot for waaay too long. Frankly, I just forgot about it. They’re pretty sturdy plants so I think this is what I’ll do. I’m going to have to cut off its plastic pot. It’s that pot bound!
unless you dont have a natural stream nearby please don't cut the roots take your plant to a natural water stream. NOT TAP WATER! and just wash the roots in the water. watch the root gently spread out you will probably have to comb them with your fingers a little bit. But no harm to the root system. now just plant it water it to get the soil wet not soaking the plant. happy healthy plant
Another reason for root bound is fertilizing during grow season - particularly phosphorus - irrespective of pot size. This plant is fine on top with some stress on outer older leaves. But extra roots developed in response to 1. sporadic watering such that they search for water in dry spells and 2. they're compelled to outgrow the pot because there's too much root stimulant phosphorus in the watering schedule. To check for the kind of root bound, see if the roots are only around the outside or if they fill the center of the pot like this one here. Outer root binding is a plant searching for water with adventitious roots, while the center remains impacted soil. Over fertilized means the roots are growing without restraint, irrespective of plant need on top. Those plants will be healthy on top because they're getting what they need even root bound. They simply made more root than they need because the circumstance was right. There are plants that actually thrive on root binding, particularly plants whose origins began with sending out roots blocked naturally by gravel and boulders. This is usually desert plants like succulents. All plants can abide root binding provided nutrients and watering are sufficient. When they break out of the pot, they're usually just an eyesore in hanging pots and cracked plastic nursery pots, or a bear to dig out of the ground to move with the seasons. But the best way to control root binding is control phosphorus in fertilizing schedule or be aware of the composition of the potting soil that may encourage such growth.
I just planted a pot-bound redbud a few days ago. I heard Redbuds "hate transplantation" and rarely survive it, so i did not fuss with the roots really at all, in fact, I only released one or two half-pencil to pencil sized roots from that encircling pattern. Is it worth digging up and cutting?
I've got an extremely large, beautiful geranium root bound in a ceramic pot. It is actually three stems and a bunch of sticks and pipe cleaners to hold it together. The leaf veins are turning yellow. I have trouble telling if it needs water be ause I can't insert my finger more than 1/2" . I know it should be transplanted to a bigger pot, but how do I get it out?
Once it is that root bound, the only way to water is to soak the whole pot. But it is time to repot into a bigger pot, or take a cutting, root in water, and start another pot.
@@Gardenfundamentals1 Thank you. I actually did do this on 50 young trees I transplanted a couple of weeks ago and they are all healthy and happy. Apparently very little shock even with a surprise freeze right after they were transplanted. 😀
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Thank you for this lesson; it looks easier and less traumatic than when I slice the root ball in half and tear it apart to spread roots as I plant it.
Using a fork and use a picking action upwards works great. Great advice on removing the lower part of the roots.
I just saw those things apart and plunk 3 new plants back into pots! Happy planting!!!
I use my hori hori for everything! Chop n' drop weeds/garden plants, weeding, digging holes for transplants & bulbs, cutting garden twine, etc. I think the straight edge side is for chopping almost like a machete, but just hold the top of plants with your hand while chopping with the other.
I love my hori hori
Great advice! I hate seeing examples of plants/trees that were planted without fixing this problem. I've had trees that had girdling roots around the base of them...someone in the past took the easy way out. They suffer their whole life from being strangled. Thanks for your shared wisdom.
Thanks very much for your concise explanation and recommendations! I'm trying to rescue a plant that I just inherited from my grandparents.
Several other channels came up first in the search results and it's a lot harder to discern good advice on RUclips nowadays. Glad I kept on looking and found you.
Your channel looks great. I will be checking out your other videos!
Thanks! I’m really looking forward to your tool comparison video 🙌
Thank you! I have a Yucca plant that’s been in its 5 gallon nursery pot for waaay too long. Frankly, I just forgot about it. They’re pretty sturdy plants so I think this is what I’ll do. I’m going to have to cut off its plastic pot. It’s that pot bound!
Great information! Thanks for the tip about watering, too!
Exactly the information I was looking for,Thank you
unless you dont have a natural stream nearby please don't cut the roots take your plant to a natural water stream. NOT TAP WATER! and just wash the roots in the water. watch the root gently spread out you will probably have to comb them with your fingers a little bit. But no harm to the root system. now just plant it water it to get the soil wet not soaking the plant. happy healthy plant
Why not use tap water? Could you use a conditioner to remove chlorine etc?
i been doing this method and it works
Thank you for your useful information 🌺💚🙃
Perfect timing - I have 3 perennial grasses to plant out in the garden and they are root bound.
Another reason for root bound is fertilizing during grow season - particularly phosphorus - irrespective of pot size. This plant is fine on top with some stress on outer older leaves. But extra roots developed in response to 1. sporadic watering such that they search for water in dry spells and 2. they're compelled to outgrow the pot because there's too much root stimulant phosphorus in the watering schedule.
To check for the kind of root bound, see if the roots are only around the outside or if they fill the center of the pot like this one here. Outer root binding is a plant searching for water with adventitious roots, while the center remains impacted soil. Over fertilized means the roots are growing without restraint, irrespective of plant need on top. Those plants will be healthy on top because they're getting what they need even root bound. They simply made more root than they need because the circumstance was right.
There are plants that actually thrive on root binding, particularly plants whose origins began with sending out roots blocked naturally by gravel and boulders. This is usually desert plants like succulents. All plants can abide root binding provided nutrients and watering are sufficient. When they break out of the pot, they're usually just an eyesore in hanging pots and cracked plastic nursery pots, or a bear to dig out of the ground to move with the seasons. But the best way to control root binding is control phosphorus in fertilizing schedule or be aware of the composition of the potting soil that may encourage such growth.
I just planted a pot-bound redbud a few days ago. I heard Redbuds "hate transplantation" and rarely survive it, so i did not fuss with the roots really at all, in fact, I only released one or two half-pencil to pencil sized roots from that encircling pattern. Is it worth digging up and cutting?
I wish I'd know that a week or so back when I pulled 2 root bound plants out of a planter. Thanks for info, I'll know next time.
Thank you❣️
Will this cutting roots off work for a larger pot of lavender?
I've got an extremely large, beautiful geranium root bound in a ceramic pot. It is actually three stems and a bunch of sticks and pipe cleaners to hold it together. The leaf veins are turning yellow. I have trouble telling if it needs water be ause I can't insert my finger more than 1/2" . I know it should be transplanted to a bigger pot, but how do I get it out?
Once it is that root bound, the only way to water is to soak the whole pot. But it is time to repot into a bigger pot, or take a cutting, root in water, and start another pot.
Does this technique work for rootbound seedling trees as well?
yes, except that some trees form a tap root - try not to slice through the tap root.
@@Gardenfundamentals1 Thank you. I actually did do this on 50 young trees I transplanted a couple of weeks ago and they are all healthy and happy. Apparently very little shock even with a surprise freeze right after they were transplanted. 😀
Why not show how to break it apart and plant them in the ground?
Working on another video showing this tomorrow.
Why not just spray it with a hose than carefully plant it?
Because then you don't solve the circulating roots.