I appreciated you showing all of the failed attempts, I think it's really helpful to see the learning process for someone as strong as Alex. Great video!
Yeah, there were many, many more, but certainly wary of how long the videos get. Going to do a full video analysis video very soon, so hopefully it’ll show you some of what goes on between the process. Thanks for watching!!!
We hope you enjoyed this video. Let us know your thoughts. More movement drills and climbing with other coaches/climbers coming soon, but keen to film content you want to see, so let us know!
I like watching elite climbers tackle challenging boulders, similar to IFSC comps, but your interaction between attempts makes this video very educational👍🏽. I liked hearing the progression of your proproblem solving thoughts. That's definitely something I need to work on. I tend to get tunnel vision on solutions. Great video...Mahalos🤙🏽
Thank you so much! We are going to film an IFSC/comp-style vid soon with some comp/Olympic friends. All sessioning together, but with the added effect of not being allowed to watch each other! Should be interesting. Thanks for watching
I find that I really relate to Alex’s climbing style (minus 6/7 grades🙂) so it was interesting to see her climbing problems I would also usually avoid. Also really interesting to hear the subtle comments on what defines style and in some cases success/failure on a climb - ankle flection, etc.
Thank you for watching and glad you found it relatable. We think that’s the beauty of our sport - we all go through the same struggles! But focusing on these weaknesses so that we are more balanced is key
Loved the video! I felt like it really captured how different styles and setting can make certain boulders relatively easier/harder depending on the person, but also based on gender (women often shorter, etc). That’s something I struggle with a lot because I climb at a small gym and there are very few intermediate (v5-7) female climbers, which means I’m always projecting with guys. Sometimes I get frustrated when they think a move is “easy” but my style/body type makes it hard for me. Really appreciated seeing how a pro handles stuff like that :)
Ahhh yes, we hear that a lot from stronger females! For sure it can be tough and hopefully these men can see that it’s harder for you. That said, the ego is what affects how we feel about the climbs. The fact that it’s harder for you should almost be irrelevant. It’s your journey and that you just have to try and overcome the challenge. The grade is irrelevant. We all get frustrated, it’s just how and what we get frustrated at. My frustration is typically black & white in that I know I can do the climb, I’m just finding it hard (stylistically). I really don’t care about the grade or that someone else found it easier. Hopefully this helps. Push yourself and try to overcome those hurdles! Good luck 🍀
I like the minimal editing--seems like mostly raw footage. Feels and sounds like a session in my own gym. Also I agree with rapid fire having its place. Kinda hard otherwise to get enough physical information to acclimate to and explore coordination moves.
Thank you - we went for this "feel" this time. We've had so much feedback on audio or background music, we opted out this time. Torn between what is best, but literally every time someone says try it without any distracting background music, so this is what we tried. Glad that's what it felt like though, we wanted YOU to feel like you were there with us. Yeah, we think dynamic movement is one of the only exceptions to not rapid firing. Still, you have to feel and analyze what's not working and make those subtle changes. Thanks for watching.
I think it is really instructive to see where your attention is at on different styles of boulders - even though they are a few grades above my best efforts. In my experience, finding the right thing to focus on can be really hard for beginners.
Thank you, glad you are liking these vids and found our channel 🙏 Agreed, very subjective, based on strengths, weaknesses and styles, but some problems will deserve more focus and attention than others!
First thought on that red coordination problem was that Alex seemed really stretched out by grabbing the start volume at the top even though it got her slightly lefter. Cool to see that going lower was the change she needed to make to have more room to generate
Yes!!! I love it when you can overcome reach or morphology issues with tech and thought! Regardless of whether or not it’s harder/easier, it’s fun overcoming the challenge! Thanks for watching
Yes! I think Instagram is guilty of highlighting the successes, due to time restraints. A lot of people think pro climbers have this immortality when it comes to falling. Not true. I’ve seen a V17 climber, whom I won’t expose, fall on V4s. Everyone falls. The key is that it doesn’t discourage you! Thanks for watching!
Super happy to subscribe and follow what you guys do with this channel! You are a rockstar Alex and it is super exciting to have your experience and insight available here in RUclips. Keep it up guys, and thanks for these videos!
@@roapcoaching917 I'm wondering how much of a factor you find your height to be in this. I'm as tall as you and sometimes the boulders are just that much harder because I can't do it the intended way. Or is that rarely an issue for you?
Completely! I find some gyms so awkward to climb at as the lead setter is setting for their 5’7-9 stature. This affects taller climbers too. That’s when boards become so useful!
Working on your ankle flexibility is such a hard thing to do! I basically worked on my entire posterior chain for several years now a ton and all that I achieved was like half a centimeter more of dorsiflexion. The limiting factor is mostly restricted by genetics… if your talus is to close to your shinbone it is basically impossible to establish more flexion… atleast that‘s what my thoughts and experiences are.
Exactly! It’s not me of those things that, for most, is something they have to learn to climb around. Some, do have very tight calves and Achilles, and they can make gains, but for most it’s not really an area to make big “gains”
They make me nervous, so mentally, yes. Physically, no. I’ve had two huge knee accidents/operations, spinal fusion, amongst others, so the accident potential and rehab makes me wary! Thanks for watching
I'm so used to seeing Alex do super powerful moves, it's great to see her showing us the things she struggles with and working through the process, much easier to relate to! Interesting tip about doing moves you are afraid of too quickly to start with just to get past the fear, then slow it down and send!
Yes, unfortunately instagram etc doesn’t really tell the whole truth, nor do you get to know a personality. Trust me, I fall a lot and on seemingly “easy” climbs. My knee injuries definitely made me more fearful, but it just takes me time and realization to overcome it. Thanks for sharing your thoughts, for watching and your support!
@@roapcoaching917 This style of video could easily be a big success in a crowded market! There's not really that much on youtube that teaches climbing technique that well. There's only so much you can say about the basics of how to do a heel hook or drop knee, and most of the rest of it is just people sending stuff. But going through the real time process of analysing why a move failed, thinking about how to do it differently, making a small adjustment in terms of hip position, or foot position, or timing, or speed, or where to palm etc.. would be priceless. When you're a beginner or intermediate climber you just don't have much awareness of the existence or the effects of all those microvariables. The only person I have seen give real time analysis at that level of detail is Shauna Coxsey, commentating on comps. It's just amazing (for an intermediate climber) how much she sees in terms of what a climber did, why a move failed, what they need to do next time, and what one climber did that another didn't. The youtube comments were just in awe of how good her eye is. If you can put out "Climb with Alex" videos where you project a few problems (especially not ones that play to your strengths), and go through your thought process after each attempt, maybe even look at a video of each attempt and share your thoughts with us, that would be amazing!
I appreciated you showing all of the failed attempts, I think it's really helpful to see the learning process for someone as strong as Alex. Great video!
Yeah, there were many, many more, but certainly wary of how long the videos get. Going to do a full video analysis video very soon, so hopefully it’ll show you some of what goes on between the process. Thanks for watching!!!
We hope you enjoyed this video. Let us know your thoughts. More movement drills and climbing with other coaches/climbers coming soon, but keen to film content you want to see, so let us know!
I like watching elite climbers tackle challenging boulders, similar to IFSC comps, but your interaction between attempts makes this video very educational👍🏽. I liked hearing the progression of your proproblem solving thoughts. That's definitely something I need to work on. I tend to get tunnel vision on solutions. Great video...Mahalos🤙🏽
Thank you so much! We are going to film an IFSC/comp-style vid soon with some comp/Olympic friends. All sessioning together, but with the added effect of not being allowed to watch each other! Should be interesting. Thanks for watching
I find that I really relate to Alex’s climbing style (minus 6/7 grades🙂) so it was interesting to see her climbing problems I would also usually avoid. Also really interesting to hear the subtle comments on what defines style and in some cases success/failure on a climb - ankle flection, etc.
Thank you for watching and glad you found it relatable. We think that’s the beauty of our sport - we all go through the same struggles! But focusing on these weaknesses so that we are more balanced is key
Here for pushing (smashing) comfort zones. Go Alex 🎉🩰✨💪
Yes Hannah Morris Leads ;)
Completely agree! Look how far you’ve come! Psyched to see you guys soon! X
the white holds are made by vezi holds. part of the limitless range of macros
Such nice holds!!! Thanks for sharing
Vezi holds by Gregor Verzonik (probably spelt his name wrong! Sorry!)
Thank you!!! Great holds!!!
Loved the video! I felt like it really captured how different styles and setting can make certain boulders relatively easier/harder depending on the person, but also based on gender (women often shorter, etc). That’s something I struggle with a lot because I climb at a small gym and there are very few intermediate (v5-7) female climbers, which means I’m always projecting with guys. Sometimes I get frustrated when they think a move is “easy” but my style/body type makes it hard for me. Really appreciated seeing how a pro handles stuff like that :)
Ahhh yes, we hear that a lot from stronger females! For sure it can be tough and hopefully these men can see that it’s harder for you.
That said, the ego is what affects how we feel about the climbs. The fact that it’s harder for you should almost be irrelevant. It’s your journey and that you just have to try and overcome the challenge. The grade is irrelevant.
We all get frustrated, it’s just how and what we get frustrated at. My frustration is typically black & white in that I know I can do the climb, I’m just finding it hard (stylistically).
I really don’t care about the grade or that someone else found it easier.
Hopefully this helps. Push yourself and try to overcome those hurdles! Good luck 🍀
I like the minimal editing--seems like mostly raw footage. Feels and sounds like a session in my own gym. Also I agree with rapid fire having its place. Kinda hard otherwise to get enough physical information to acclimate to and explore coordination moves.
Thank you - we went for this "feel" this time. We've had so much feedback on audio or background music, we opted out this time. Torn between what is best, but literally every time someone says try it without any distracting background music, so this is what we tried. Glad that's what it felt like though, we wanted YOU to feel like you were there with us. Yeah, we think dynamic movement is one of the only exceptions to not rapid firing. Still, you have to feel and analyze what's not working and make those subtle changes. Thanks for watching.
lol, first boulder just being "kinda hard". That looked insane. 😅
Haha, Robin thought so too! My “wheel-house” I guess :) Thank you so much for watching ❤️
I think it is really instructive to see where your attention is at on different styles of boulders - even though they are a few grades above my best efforts. In my experience, finding the right thing to focus on can be really hard for beginners.
Thank you, glad you are liking these vids and found our channel 🙏
Agreed, very subjective, based on strengths, weaknesses and styles, but some problems will deserve more focus and attention than others!
First thought on that red coordination problem was that Alex seemed really stretched out by grabbing the start volume at the top even though it got her slightly lefter. Cool to see that going lower was the change she needed to make to have more room to generate
Yes!!! I love it when you can overcome reach or morphology issues with tech and thought!
Regardless of whether or not it’s harder/easier, it’s fun overcoming the challenge! Thanks for watching
Very nice session and agree that showing the projecting attempts is encouraging. It’s motivating to keep trying my own beginners projects. Thank you!
Thank you so much, glad you found it encouraging! Thanks for watching :)
Another great episode!!
Yes! I think Instagram is guilty of highlighting the successes, due to time restraints. A lot of people think pro climbers have this immortality when it comes to falling. Not true. I’ve seen a V17 climber, whom I won’t expose, fall on V4s. Everyone falls. The key is that it doesn’t discourage you! Thanks for watching!
Super happy to subscribe and follow what you guys do with this channel! You are a rockstar Alex and it is super exciting to have your experience and insight available here in RUclips. Keep it up guys, and thanks for these videos!
Welcome aboard, thank you so much for your support. We can't wait to share more content with you!
That's really interesting to see how your flash grade varies depending on the style! Thanks for the video :)
Yes! Drastically, especially after spending a lot of time on rock (when this was filmed)
@@roapcoaching917 I'm wondering how much of a factor you find your height to be in this. I'm as tall as you and sometimes the boulders are just that much harder because I can't do it the intended way. Or is that rarely an issue for you?
Completely! I find some gyms so awkward to climb at as the lead setter is setting for their 5’7-9 stature. This affects taller climbers too. That’s when boards become so useful!
Working on your ankle flexibility is such a hard thing to do! I basically worked on my entire posterior chain for several years now a ton and all that I achieved was like half a centimeter more of dorsiflexion. The limiting factor is mostly restricted by genetics… if your talus is to close to your shinbone it is basically impossible to establish more flexion… atleast that‘s what my thoughts and experiences are.
Exactly! It’s not me of those things that, for most, is something they have to learn to climb around. Some, do have very tight calves and Achilles, and they can make gains, but for most it’s not really an area to make big “gains”
do the injuries Alex has had affect her in doing dynamic movement?
They make me nervous, so mentally, yes. Physically, no. I’ve had two huge knee accidents/operations, spinal fusion, amongst others, so the accident potential and rehab makes me wary! Thanks for watching
I'm so used to seeing Alex do super powerful moves, it's great to see her showing us the things she struggles with and working through the process, much easier to relate to! Interesting tip about doing moves you are afraid of too quickly to start with just to get past the fear, then slow it down and send!
Yes, unfortunately instagram etc doesn’t really tell the whole truth, nor do you get to know a personality.
Trust me, I fall a lot and on seemingly “easy” climbs.
My knee injuries definitely made me more fearful, but it just takes me time and realization to overcome it.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts, for watching and your support!
@@roapcoaching917 This style of video could easily be a big success in a crowded market! There's not really that much on youtube that teaches climbing technique that well. There's only so much you can say about the basics of how to do a heel hook or drop knee, and most of the rest of it is just people sending stuff. But going through the real time process of analysing why a move failed, thinking about how to do it differently, making a small adjustment in terms of hip position, or foot position, or timing, or speed, or where to palm etc.. would be priceless. When you're a beginner or intermediate climber you just don't have much awareness of the existence or the effects of all those microvariables.
The only person I have seen give real time analysis at that level of detail is Shauna Coxsey, commentating on comps. It's just amazing (for an intermediate climber) how much she sees in terms of what a climber did, why a move failed, what they need to do next time, and what one climber did that another didn't. The youtube comments were just in awe of how good her eye is. If you can put out "Climb with Alex" videos where you project a few problems (especially not ones that play to your strengths), and go through your thought process after each attempt, maybe even look at a video of each attempt and share your thoughts with us, that would be amazing!
that was a great video! thank you!
Thank you so much, we really appreciate it! ❤️
3:22 Amazing how strong Alex is... 👍👍
.
Ahhhh, thank you! A lifetime of trying! Thanks for watching ❤️
bro she was AT MY GYM??? i wish i was there dudee
never expected to see any pro climber in flat ass texas hahaha
great vid
It’s where my family live!! Thanks for watching
👍
Thanks for watching!!