I may not have seen every video on metric gear cutting but I have seen a lot. Your video is the best one I have seen by a great margin. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Thank You! I am in the process of tooling up to make gears for some engines I restore. My recent research brought me to your classroom. Thanks for the simple to understand instruction in what I have always thought was too much for my meager mind to conceive! Your explainations make it make sense. Eagerly waiting for part-2!!
Oh no this is how it works... you keep putting out parts and we keep watching every minute to learn everything you want to share. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Excellant explanation. I have cut gears with a self made cutter. All you need is to make a cutter using the dimensions for a gear rack. You will be cutting more than one tooth at a time and the end result is perfect.
Very excellent explanation of gear cutting. You definitely do not talk too much! The clear descriptions are very helpful. I often wonder if you prefer programming more or machining more. But in any case, it’s good to have a passion!
Lee you have a sharp mind thanks for helping me to understand a little about how a stepper motor operates yes i will be back next Saturday to expand my brain just a little more.
Fantastic explanation sir. Cannot thank you enough. I learned a great deal tonight that was new to me. No need to apologise for talking too much when the knowledge passed on is this valuable. Can’t wait for the next instalment 👍👍👍🇦🇺.
Could you recommend an app that a new manual machinist could download to his IPhone that helps figure out feeds and speeds on lathe & mill as well as what insert to use on the common metals? If it had the above info from your video as well about cutting gears would also be good. I already downloaded one but it seems to be for those doing CNC programming & assumes the user already has a lot of the basic knowledge I don’t yet have. It’s tough starting out, bit like jumping in the deep end when trying to learn to swim.
Consider changing your couplings to help tightening up the motion as well. The spiral cut couplings are great for helping with any misalignment and are 'ok' for light loads like in a 3D printer or Laser but otherwise look at a rubber spider type.
Very interesting ! I would like to see the same set of videos for doing Imperial gears. Very , very informative. Love the program you creared, can wait until you market it. Thank you.
I cut a gear once, in aluminum, back in high school machine shop! And I'm pretty close to your age... I don't remember what the device I used was called, but it had a plate on it with a LOT of holes, and you had to pick the right ones and move the right number of holes. This was also the only time I ever used a horizontal mill, which they had there...
Good morning Lee, I would love for you to have a video on the program you use for calculation and control of your dividing head. I have a 40 turn dividing head so I know the math is different but I am curious how you handle the fractional steps and angles with the stepper motor. Thank you, I really enjoy your videos.
Thanks for the gear theory lesson! Sorry Lee but NEMA17 only tells about the mechanical mount. Nothing about its torque. I used a 3 Amp stepper, mounted according to NEMA23. Torque? The most I had available.. Running it in 2 different modes, either angle step mode or steps per revolution mode covers a lot. Using a microstepping factor of 32 x 90 x 200 steps per rev the resolution gives a resolution of 1 to 576 000. It ought to manage more then needed. You bet Your advice to come back next week was heared!
I can understand why the little nema 17 didn't work. A worm drive is about as inefficient as you can get, so much power is lost through the contact of the worm to worm wheel. A nema 23 with 270 oz torque works great on my BS-0 dividing head 40:1 worm reduction. I bought Steve Ward's (world of ward) stand alone electronic rotary table controller. It has a built in 5.6 amp stepper driver, all you need to buy is your stepper motor and a 24 volt power supply. Of course you need to make your own mount and buy or make a coupling. It has an output that allows you to add a second driver for linear motion as well as limit switches and another output that you could control a solenoid valve or anything else. It corrects any division errors when doing odd number gears so all cuts end up even and you can enter in your tables backlash if you want to do forward and reversing cuts. The second ouput can also be used if you need much bigger steppers and higher voltages. It's dead simple to use to cut gears or machine slots or any type radius cut you like, being able to add a second linear motion axis is great. I use it to drive the X axis on my mill buy you could use it for Y,Z etc. A few minutes of entering your rotary and linear axis instructions and you can sit back and watch while it executes the job. It's only 180 pounds and ships from England. You can also buy the idividual board, box and other components to make the product yourself from him or elsewhere, he offers the software for free. It's even cheaper if you don't mind soldering all the components to the board yourself. Lot's of options for different budget levels. I have no affiliation with him, I spent a lot of time looking for an easy to use stepper control for my indexing head. This required no code or heavy learning curve to use. Once you've got it attached to the rotary table or dividing head you can start cutting gears. It took me about 15 minutes to figure out and enter the setup info for the stepper and another 30 minutes to get familiar with the different indexing options and enter the info to cut my first gear. If you hate the idea of learning CNC or programing an building and programming an arduino then this type of controller is the best option. You can ad different profiles so you can switch the controller from milling machine to lathe or anything else you want to control in just a couple minutes as well. Lots more options I don't recall off the top of my head you might like as well.
Engine I use for cutting odd number tooth gears using 200 step per rev stepper. Spreads the error across all teeth. laststep = round(stepsDiv * lastPosition); nextstep = round(stepsDiv * currentPosition); divSteps = abs(nextstep - laststep);
So are the charts and everything you said the same for imperial gears? Thanks for explaining this subject so well, this type of video would never be to long, I might have to wait to find time to watch it but I definitely would. I’ve actually created a file for this video and will add the next video/videos to it, along with any others that detail the process this well.
I’m using a Raspberry Pi. Code is written in Python and using Tkinter as the GUI. I’m sure and Arduino would work fine to generate the pulses - just have to work out the user interface.
Lee, do you happen to have cutters for 22DP with a 20PA? I need to make a couple of gears for a Hardinge HLVH. Hardinge used a Fellows Stub profile of 22/29 with a 20 degree PA. Thanks
I also have a HLV-H that I had thought about making gears for that I could use to cut metric threads. I had thought that I could make a complete set of the needed gears but with a different diametral pitch and a 14.5 degree PA (using involute gear cutters that I already have). I have not done it yet, but I feel that it should be feasible.
@@charlieromeo965 I did find some 22dp 20pa cutters on the internet, but they are about $80 to $90 each, so you would probably want to know which gears you wanted to cut. Probably looking at $600 for a complete set. Might get a bit pricey for just 1 or 2 gears.
Хобби
I may not have seen every video on metric gear cutting but I have seen a lot. Your video is the best one I have seen by a great margin. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Even though I doubt I'll ever cut a metric gear, I do appreciate your taking the time to explain this Lee!
Thank You! I am in the process of tooling up to make gears for some engines I restore. My recent research brought me to your classroom. Thanks for the simple to understand instruction in what I have always thought was too much for my meager mind to conceive! Your explainations make it make sense. Eagerly waiting for part-2!!
You certainly do NOT talk to much! Thanks for taking the time to be clear and thorough!
Oh no this is how it works... you keep putting out parts and we keep watching every minute to learn everything you want to share. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Excellant explanation. I have cut gears with a self made cutter. All you need is to make a cutter using the dimensions for a gear rack. You will be cutting more than one tooth at a time and the end result is perfect.
Very nice work. That is sure above my skill level for now. Good job
This is a cliff hanger!!! Thanks & seeya next week.
Keep talking this is a great explanation
Thank you for your passion and patience for taking the time and effort to explain it that way Sir.
Very excellent explanation of gear cutting. You definitely do not talk too much! The clear descriptions are very helpful.
I often wonder if you prefer programming more or machining more. But in any case, it’s good to have a passion!
Lee you have a sharp mind thanks for helping me to understand a little about how a stepper motor operates yes i will be back next Saturday to expand my brain just a little more.
Fantastic explanation sir.
Cannot thank you enough.
I learned a great deal tonight that was new to me.
No need to apologise for talking too much when the knowledge passed on is this valuable.
Can’t wait for the next instalment
👍👍👍🇦🇺.
Could you recommend an app that a new manual machinist could download to his IPhone that helps figure out feeds and speeds on lathe & mill as well as what insert to use on the common metals?
If it had the above info from your video as well about cutting gears would also be good.
I already downloaded one but it seems to be for those doing CNC programming & assumes the user already has a lot of the basic knowledge I don’t yet have.
It’s tough starting out, bit like jumping in the deep end when trying to learn to swim.
Very informative and interesting thanks
Excellent explanation
Looking forward to it
Consider changing your couplings to help tightening up the motion as well. The spiral cut couplings are great for helping with any misalignment and are 'ok' for light loads like in a 3D printer or Laser but otherwise look at a rubber spider type.
Great in-depth explanation. Look forward to your next video and cutting chips.
Very interesting ! I would like to see the same set of videos for doing Imperial gears. Very , very informative. Love the program you creared, can wait until you market it. Thank you.
Great Project Lee. Lots of work there very nice.
Lots of information
I cut a gear once, in aluminum, back in high school machine shop! And I'm pretty close to your age... I don't remember what the device I used was called, but it had a plate on it with a LOT of holes, and you had to pick the right ones and move the right number of holes. This was also the only time I ever used a horizontal mill, which they had there...
Sounds like you’re describing a dividing head & plates.
@@MrPragmaticLee Looking up pics of that, I think you nailed it! My recollection isn't the best because we're talking mig-1960s or so here. :-)
Can you please do a video on how you cut the fly cutter to cut the teeth. Thanks you for your videos they are great.
Good morning Lee, I would love for you to have a video on the program you use for calculation and control of your dividing head. I have a 40 turn dividing head so I know the math is different but I am curious how you handle the fractional steps and angles with the stepper motor. Thank you, I really enjoy your videos.
See you next Saturday.
Thanks for the gear theory lesson!
Sorry Lee but NEMA17 only tells about the mechanical mount. Nothing about its torque.
I used a 3 Amp stepper, mounted according to NEMA23. Torque? The most I had available..
Running it in 2 different modes, either angle step mode or steps per revolution mode covers a lot.
Using a microstepping factor of 32 x 90 x 200 steps per rev the resolution gives a resolution of 1 to 576 000. It ought to manage more then needed.
You bet Your advice to come back next week was heared!
I can understand why the little nema 17 didn't work. A worm drive is about as inefficient as you can get, so much power is lost through the contact of the worm to worm wheel. A nema 23 with 270 oz torque works great on my BS-0 dividing head 40:1 worm reduction. I bought Steve Ward's (world of ward) stand alone electronic rotary table controller. It has a built in 5.6 amp stepper driver, all you need to buy is your stepper motor and a 24 volt power supply. Of course you need to make your own mount and buy or make a coupling. It has an output that allows you to add a second driver for linear motion as well as limit switches and another output that you could control a solenoid valve or anything else. It corrects any division errors when doing odd number gears so all cuts end up even and you can enter in your tables backlash if you want to do forward and reversing cuts. The second ouput can also be used if you need much bigger steppers and higher voltages. It's dead simple to use to cut gears or machine slots or any type radius cut you like, being able to add a second linear motion axis is great. I use it to drive the X axis on my mill buy you could use it for Y,Z etc. A few minutes of entering your rotary and linear axis instructions and you can sit back and watch while it executes the job. It's only 180 pounds and ships from England. You can also buy the idividual board, box and other components to make the product yourself from him or elsewhere, he offers the software for free. It's even cheaper if you don't mind soldering all the components to the board yourself. Lot's of options for different budget levels. I have no affiliation with him, I spent a lot of time looking for an easy to use stepper control for my indexing head. This required no code or heavy learning curve to use. Once you've got it attached to the rotary table or dividing head you can start cutting gears. It took me about 15 minutes to figure out and enter the setup info for the stepper and another 30 minutes to get familiar with the different indexing options and enter the info to cut my first gear. If you hate the idea of learning CNC or programing an building and programming an arduino then this type of controller is the best option. You can ad different profiles so you can switch the controller from milling machine to lathe or anything else you want to control in just a couple minutes as well. Lots more options I don't recall off the top of my head you might like as well.
As the Arnold would say “I’ll be back”
👍🏻
Engine I use for cutting odd number tooth gears using 200 step per rev stepper. Spreads the error across all teeth.
laststep = round(stepsDiv * lastPosition);
nextstep = round(stepsDiv * currentPosition);
divSteps = abs(nextstep - laststep);
Thank you. I’ve been considering how I’d address that issue - your code gives me a fantastic head start.
So are the charts and everything you said the same for imperial gears? Thanks for explaining this subject so well, this type of video would never be to long, I might have to wait to find time to watch it but I definitely would. I’ve actually created a file for this video and will add the next video/videos to it, along with any others that detail the process this well.
Imperial gears have similar formulas. Several folks have requested I do a video on that so stay tuned.
What are you using for a pulse generator? I am thinking I would reach for an Arduino but curious as to what you used.
I’m using a Raspberry Pi. Code is written in Python and using Tkinter as the GUI. I’m sure and Arduino would work fine to generate the pulses - just have to work out the user interface.
Lee, do you happen to have cutters for 22DP with a 20PA? I need to make a couple of gears for a Hardinge HLVH. Hardinge used a Fellows Stub profile of 22/29 with a 20 degree PA. Thanks
Sorry, the only set of cutters I currently have is the 1.5 module. Thanks for stopping by.
I also have a HLV-H that I had thought about making gears for that I could use to cut metric threads. I had thought that I could make a complete set of the needed gears but with a different diametral pitch and a 14.5 degree PA (using involute gear cutters that I already have). I have not done it yet, but I feel that it should be feasible.
@@wilsontaylor234 I’ve heard of a few guys doing that. The gears I want to replicate are inside the apron. Good luck
@@charlieromeo965 I did find some 22dp 20pa cutters on the internet, but they are about $80 to $90 each, so you would probably want to know which gears you wanted to cut. Probably looking at $600 for a complete set. Might get a bit pricey for just 1 or 2 gears.
*****CREATED*****
It's all simple math... If it takes 10 men to roll a boulder up a hill, how many pancakes does it take to shingle a dog house?