Hands down, THE BEST instructions. Thanks I appreciate you and your knowledge. You have the ability of saying only what matters directly. no filler, bs, babbling. 🙏🏻Thank you again, true diy professional
Great Great content for us DIYers... Thank you! And others are correct, this and the other vids you are doing are the ones who truly work... amazing, can not thank you enough.
Very thorough with information on the process, the gun settings, the products, and the purpose for each step. You used good grammer and appropriate words. Great video!!!!
Thanks for sharing your work with us. You and some of the other RUclips painters have really helped me with my project car. I’ve been painting the car little by little. One panel at a time lol. Still learning.
Just getting into this at a pretty senior age and have been learning a lot from your videos. I really enjoy your instruction and presentation. Ordering my Aeropro A610 on Prime Day and will continue watching and getting smarter! ;-) Thank you, Andy K
Best video I've seen on how to blend in paint. usually its a whole panel but that sometimes is not practical. Thanks Awesome job. I,m gonna give it a go using your great tips.
Awesome! I appreciate that. I typically do this type of blend but like you said sometimes it's the best solution for a situation. Appreciate the comment and support!
I had a 1980 Corvette. At that time they used lacquer and I used to do some repairs. I have a new Infiniti in Graphite Shadow. In one week I damaged the front and rear bumper. Bad luck I guess. I’ve never worked with metallic paint or clear coat before but I’ll give it a shot. I learned a lot from your video thank you and please keep them coming. LD
Hey, Chris. Talk about a well-timed video! I've watched it three times already. I burned through a door edge wet sanding, and I need to repaint and blend it in to the rest of the door. I really dig that you're using the LT100, too. I'm using a Kobalt Quiet Tech 26-Gallon Compressor, and the LT100 is the perfect gun for that setup. Also: If you're looking for video ideas, I'd vote for one about how to paint door jambs without taking the doors off. 👍
@@GarageNoise in the video you showed a can of spray max 2k clear with a color paint can but it wasn’t for the car. You said it can also be done using the cans right, so my question is, would it be better to spray the 2k clear over my primed quarter panel repair area and than proceed to shoot the metallic colour right after onto the 2k clear as you say it helps the metallics lay better. Or would I be better of to spray my colour first which is a black metallic sapphire bmw 475 and than proceed to clear it with the 2k and use the spray max spot blender to feather new to old clear coat ? Your professional opinion means a lot. Your a great teacher !!! 🙏🙏🙏
@@aimized1460 ok, you getting 2k clear coat confused with clear base coat . Clear base coat is what helps blend metallics. 2k clear coat is a top coat only. Here is a video that will help.
Amazing process, a couple of questions however. Why didn't you need to sand the clear coat down above the damage (on the natural body line)? You sanded the rest of the panel, but in this section you sprayed the base coat and the clear coat over un-sanded clear coat. You also scuffed the clear on the bottom left panel (from the damage), and blended that into the rest of the panel - but was there a reason you didn't do this on the right side of the damage? (You instead sanded and resprayed that whole bumper). I'm new to this, but it felt like you used 3 different techniques - one above damage, one to the left of damage, and one to the right of damage, to achieve the same or similar results.
Amazing work and video ! You mentioned this is also doable with spray cans ! I would love to see you do more videos using spray cans ! Some of us don’t have spray guns and compressors to paint I’m sure you understand, anyways just a though have a great weekend buddy !!
Excellent information as always. I've got a few small spots on my silver metallic truck that I would like to fix without re-painting the entire truck.. Your video-and the information within, will absolutely help me accomplish that.
EXCELLENT VIDEO,I was hoping you were going to use the type of blending clear that you put right in the gravity cup! Not dissapointented at all though . I always wondered if you should 1500 grit well beyond the blend to then come back with my high speed buff and 3m polishing compund and a foam pad..., you did answer all that for me thanks!!
I'm body tech at a high-end shop 45 yrs experience. Spent the first 20 as painter. I'm not about to retire but have recently been doing combo in home shop. I still enjoy paint work but cost of material sucks the fun out of it. I just wanted to see if I could still do quality paint work at home , thanks for your videos looking forward to spot repair on fresh panel.
Excellent tips- you make it look easy! I'm repairing damage to a motorcycle carbon fibre cover that needs clearing just on the repair and not the entire piece, so I needed to understand how to do this and your vid helped. Is it possible or adviseable to mask off area, spray the clear, and then try to blend hard mask line w/ 1000- 1500?
Came out great. Im looking into fixing under paint rust in a corner of my roof and a bird etching on the hood of my car thats deep into clear/paint. If anyone has some tips i would appreciate some feedback. Its a 11 subaru outback.
Good job on what can turn into a cluster fck real quick. I’ve never used the blending agent, curious if it has a tendency to get cloudy after time. I always over reduce my clear with lacquer thinner after clearing and burn my edges. It blends good but usually dies back over time. Also, I usually dust my base on really dry…more air than fluid. Helps to keep original clear coat from wrinkling.
U definitely know your stuff 👍 though most paint manufacturers say to use light grit sandpaper like 3000 on end of blends . Only recently did find out the gray sotchbrite is key to good blends. I know blends are not recommended or warranted by paint manufacturers is very good skill to have especially sectioning of rocker panel and pillars
You can also back polish the blend zone with rubbing compound with a pad then clear right up to that area then immediately use upol #9 until the blend zone turn clear and most importantly dry the blender with low air on your gun you not need to buff nothing, saves a lot of time
i tried spot repairing an issue on my front bumper at the top where it meets the hood. When I sprayed the clear coat I hadn't seen this video yet so now I can see where the edge of the clearcoat I sprayed is and where the factory clear coat is as well. How would I redo this repair so you can't see the edge of the new clearcoat I sprayed? I'm concerned if I spray new clearcoat over this again that it's still going to show the edge of the clearcoat I just sprayed.
If you dont want any blend line it's best to clear the full bumper but if you don't want to do that you need to wet sand it down a larger area past the current blend add basecoat and then clear . Washbthe blend line in with reducer and finally buff making sure to buff away from the blend
I get that there's a market for this kind of work ie DIY guys and used cars but I hate when shops do this to my car. You always see that blend in a year or so no buffing that away. And it will peel around that chrome you taped up it can't be scuffed all the way down in there. Good stuff to learn though.
These bumper covers are so easy to remove it seems like it’s more of a pain to go through all the blending and creative masking than to just do the whole cover. Yes, paint is expensive, but add up that plastic used to cover the ENTIRE car plus the foam, the tape, the time, etc, versus only taping off the chrome and the scuff panel(in black, also deceptively easy to remove and replace, and removes any chances of the other commenter’s remark about the edges peeling. Indeed, if ANYTHING can grab an edge, it will, and subsequent attempts at sanding and buffing will undoubtedly find those edges and weaken their strength. Splitting hairs? You betcha I am, cause that’s the difference for longevity. Another person’s car? You may or may not care. Your own or family or friend’s car, you care. In 6 months or a year, do you really wanna hear even the most kind request to “touch up” your previous “fix”. I am knee deep into preventing just that as we speak on my mom’s car. I know her and know myself. If I see it. She will see it. If I are, she will care. Period. I can see the future, and if I don’t get it just right to MY standards, I’ll be doing again. I have painted parts of this SUV so many times I lost count. The hood, going into the teens. The passenger side I finally got so good it does t even need a cut-n-buff! Finally satisfied, as a cut-n-buff is how I got here in the first place, having burned through parts where I had put down so many coats of paint and clear I figured it would never get through. Wrong. In fact the OEM paint getting burned through was what led me here. I turned an average scratch and chip fix into a mostly full respray, all except the roof, where there was no rust, no dents, no dings, just chips and scratches, some pretty deep, and the blends just were not cutting it, pun intended. The finish I got on this last attempt, the passenger side, is so good I’m about to redo the drivers side. I definitely got myself into a hell of a bind but I’m forcing myself to learn something I once took for granted. Now, I understand why it could cost $10,000 for an OEM type repaint. Even though tons of hours have been spent on trial and error, the learning curve has been steep, but worth it, but I’m well into nearly 1,000 hours on this thing. Again, this last attempt has made the journey worth it. I still have a hard time looking at it and going, “damn, I did that!” An attempted run repair on the otherwise glass-like rear bumper cover brought me here, and watching this made me decide NOT to spot blend, but just respray it. The ends must justify the means. Always.
I just tried this and I got some overspray beyond my sanded area that will scrape off with my nail. If I get all the extra loose clear off, how do I avoid the hard edge up to the point where it actually sticks? Will the upol #9 work even on the dry/semi cured clear edge? Hope that makes sense.
Why did you sand the right side of the bumper with 800 grit but the left side with a gray scuff pad that has a higher grit (1000-1500)? Why not use the gray scuff pad for the entire job?
On the right side I want a better a deeper scratch for adhesion. On the left I used the lighter scuff pad because It's where I blended the clear . I wanted to easily be able to buff the blend line. Appreciate your comment and support!
What do you do with leftover paint and clear. Can it be re-used or is it thrown out. Do you use 2 different guns or do you clean out the gun with base coat and use the same gun for clear.
When removing the masking , do you remove it once its fully cured , or 20 mins after or right away ? Thanks for the awesome videos and tips I appreciate it man
It's hard to say but they will fail eventually. What I mean by fail is you'll be able to see them. The blends will last if it's not getting direct sunlight . Appreciate the comment and support!
Are you suggesting that we could use the 2k aerosol clear coat (or other type of aerosol clear coats) to use as a wet bed? I thought there was a difference between a clear base and a cleat coat. Nice video!
No don't use Aerosol clearcoat as a wet bed. Clear basecoat is what you want to use some call it a color blender. Speedcoat make a color blender that works well. Appreciate the comment and support!
thanks for showing how to clear coat blend. looks like i need a blender can before i proceed with my clear coat blend. Can we see few month later results? is clear coat blend still good? I noticed you put down wet bed, What is that? does that help clear coat blend?
You can just use reducer to wash in the blend it works well too. You don't have to use clear base but it helps metallics lay down. Check out this video for how to use aclear base. ruclips.net/video/6TLp-YP2hfY/видео.html
Hi, so is the technique of blending paint or clear coat having a loose mask of paper so the paint or clear coat can sneak underneath mask? When you sprayed the clear coat, was there a noticeable difference in finishes on that bumper? This is exactly what I am attempting, and could use the advice. Thanks
Follow the video but the idea of the paper is so you don't have a hard line of clear and yes so a little clear sneaks under there then spray over the blend with the upol #9 or a little bit of straight reducer will help it to melt in. Then a light buff away from the blend. There shouldn't be a difference in the finish othe than the blend area should only be slightly duller. Hope this helps appreciate the support!
I would use 2k , you can use 1k takes longer to cure and sometimes it can react to basecoat or old paint. If you use the 1k apply it with light coats. Of course you want to sand out the scratch first.
@@GarageNoise thanks. I’ve seen on some sites they use turns in from needle contact with the trigger when adjuster backed all the way out then turned in till contact with the trigger pulled all the way open then plus turns in. I’m going to try your method cause I use an awful lot of paint even when turning in 3 or 4 turns.
Chris, i am using Kleenstrip Prep all as my Wax and grease remover then i wipe with alcohol and see some minor fish eye. Can you tell me what Waz grease remover you use please.?
With the wet bed/clear base I’ve seen a few videos on it, but do you apply your base immediately after that clear base while still wet, or do you allow it to begin flashing?
Jarrett, I feel like either way works well . If I'm sprayin a silver or gold I try to apply the color while the clear base is wet. Appreciate the support brother!
What I put on before paint is clear base coat, not clear coat. Some other names are color blender or wet bed. It's not completely necessary on a small job.
I use aerosal from Microfinish on my repairs. Curious about whether my Ingersoll Rand 2hp 20 gallon needs an air dryer for an occasional paint job. And what gun to order if I decide to step it up. Do guns have a filter on them I see the regulator.
i am curious about how the blend of basecoat occurs. Won't the new atomized basecoat boundary still be visible of the left because of difference in color and faint overspray etc. ? I understand that color blending with clear coat is less of an issue and sanding afterwards will improve the blend of clear.
@@rcarioca check out my videos on wet bed, clear basecoat that is what is typically used for blending difficult basecoat like silvers or other metallics.
Great video Chris I do love these smart repair job's well explained now the spray gun you was using was a 2 cfm what cfm was your compressor I am interested in getting a compressor what cfm do you recommend for a 2 or 3 cfm spray gun also how dose it spray with a 2 cfm is it more controlled thank you for this video would not mine seeing another smart repair video
The gun I'm using requires 4.25 cfm to operate consistently. Viewers have said they use this gun with a 25 gal compressor from harbor freight. I haven't been able to test this gun with a small compressor but plan to. Get the largest cfm compressor that you can afford. Mine produces 16-17 cfm's. Thank's for watching!
Summitracing LVLP says 3-4cfm but its pretty much the same gun as LT100. I have both and the aircap are the same. I use a 20 gal Husky quiet compressor.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Hands down, THE BEST instructions. Thanks I appreciate you and your knowledge. You have the ability of saying only what matters directly. no filler, bs, babbling. 🙏🏻Thank you again, true diy professional
Watched over a 100 videos on spot painting.. this one is THE ONLY one that's correct
👍appreciate the comment and support!
Great Great content for us DIYers... Thank you!
And others are correct, this and the other vids you are doing are the ones who truly work... amazing, can not thank you enough.
Awesome! Appreciate the comment and support!
Great tuition, gonna have a go myself on a Copart car I have in the garage, bought on a whim. Couldn't do it without video's like yours. Many Thanks
Right on!
Very concisely described process. Thanks for helping
Watching this is pure genius, what are pro. Thank you for the great tips.
You're very welcome!
I like the explanations and the fact that you offer options to a complete panel paint job. Thank you!
Thank's Richard for the support!
Thank you very much I learned a lot of things from you. Appreciate it.
Excellent concise instruction, I'm getting ready to paint my 97 Trans Am with a budget Eastward gun. I'm going to binge watch your videos first.
Awesome! You can do it!
Thank you for sharing your expertise with your audiances ! 🌺
👍🙏
Very thorough with information on the process, the gun settings, the products, and the purpose for each step. You used good grammer and appropriate words. Great video!!!!
Thanks for sharing your work with us. You and some of the other RUclips painters have really helped me with my project car. I’ve been painting the car little by little. One panel at a time lol. Still learning.
Awesome to hear! I appreciate the feedback! Share pics of your project at garagenoise247@gmail.com
Very helpful , esp the clear coat blending ..thank you .
Glad it was helpful!
I love how professional your videos are. It gives me a lot of insight on how to do proper body work. Thank you.
Thank you! Appreciate the comment and supporting the channel!
Just getting into this at a pretty senior age and have been learning a lot from your videos. I really enjoy your instruction and presentation. Ordering my Aeropro A610 on Prime Day and will continue watching and getting smarter! ;-) Thank you, Andy K
Rock on!
The touch up with small spots was just what I needed. Thanks a bunch. Keep on keeping on. You are appreciated!!!
Thank's Robert appreciate the support!
Best video I've seen on how to blend in paint. usually its a whole panel but that sometimes is not practical. Thanks Awesome job. I,m gonna give it a go using your great tips.
Awesome! I appreciate that. I typically do this type of blend but like you said sometimes it's the best solution for a situation. Appreciate the comment and support!
Hi Chris, another great video, i am doing my neighbours bumper next week so this has come a great time
Perfect! Appreciate the support
Thank you for sharing, very helpful advice.
You are so welcome!
Great information, enjoyed watching.
Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for the support!
Love the video! Great info! Keep up the good work!
Thanks brother! Appreciate the comment!
I had a 1980 Corvette. At that time they used lacquer and I used to do some repairs. I have a new Infiniti in Graphite Shadow. In one week I damaged the front and rear bumper. Bad luck I guess. I’ve never worked with metallic paint or clear coat before but I’ll give it a shot. I learned a lot from your video thank you and please keep them coming.
LD
You can do it, not that tough and clearcoat is forgiving . Be sure to check out my other videos. I would use a wet bed /color blender
You amaze me as you teach me new skills. Thanks a million.
Thank you so much. very clear explanation. This helped me a lot. !
You welcome brother! Appreciate the support!
Liking that gun!!..awesome job Chris!..
Thank's brother!
Absolutely brilliant video, doing a similar repair and got this video as a go to.
Thanks so much
Great to hear!
Hey, Chris. Talk about a well-timed video! I've watched it three times already. I burned through a door edge wet sanding, and I need to repaint and blend it in to the rest of the door.
I really dig that you're using the LT100, too. I'm using a Kobalt Quiet Tech 26-Gallon Compressor, and the LT100 is the perfect gun for that setup.
Also:
If you're looking for video ideas, I'd vote for one about how to paint door jambs without taking the doors off. 👍
Thank's for the comment Jeremy! Yeah really enjoying the lt100 . The fact that it works well with your small compressor is good information.
Needed this thanks chris howdy howdy👍👍👍
Cracking job 👏 chis well explained as usual so Chris a blending coate it's just a clear coat what you put on first
No, that is clear basecoat. Basically paint with no color. I havs a few videos on the topic if want to understand it better.
@@GarageNoise in the video you showed a can of spray max 2k clear with a color paint can but it wasn’t for the car. You said it can also be done using the cans right, so my question is, would it be better to spray the 2k clear over my primed quarter panel repair area and than proceed to shoot the metallic colour right after onto the 2k clear as you say it helps the metallics lay better. Or would I be better of to spray my colour first which is a black metallic sapphire bmw 475 and than proceed to clear it with the 2k and use the spray max spot blender to feather new to old clear coat ? Your professional opinion means a lot. Your a great teacher !!! 🙏🙏🙏
@@aimized1460 no don't spray base over wet 2k clear that will create a problem.
@@aimized1460 ok, you getting 2k clear coat confused with clear base coat . Clear base coat is what helps blend metallics. 2k clear coat is a top coat only. Here is a video that will help.
@@aimized1460 watch this ruclips.net/video/6TLp-YP2hfY/видео.html
Nice job. Very thorough. Ty
Awesome video, very well explained, got a project just like it I need to do . Thanks
Appreciate it! Thank's for the support!
Thanks Chris, now i can do my own project at home 💪
Your welcome! Appreciate the comment and support!
Snap on spray painter gun's and blue point are really good
Amazing process, a couple of questions however. Why didn't you need to sand the clear coat down above the damage (on the natural body line)? You sanded the rest of the panel, but in this section you sprayed the base coat and the clear coat over un-sanded clear coat. You also scuffed the clear on the bottom left panel (from the damage), and blended that into the rest of the panel - but was there a reason you didn't do this on the right side of the damage? (You instead sanded and resprayed that whole bumper). I'm new to this, but it felt like you used 3 different techniques - one above damage, one to the left of damage, and one to the right of damage, to achieve the same or similar results.
Looking good
Nice teaching
Thanks a lot
Concise and informative as always> Thanks!
Thank's brother! Appreciate the comment and support!
Great blend
Joe Bro! Like that 👍Thank's buddy! Appreciate the comment and support!
As always a good info and tecnique video 👍
Thank's brother!
Nice and to the point. Excellent tips for us DIY guys
Thanks 👍
great video man. thanks a million
Great job! Thanks
Thank you too!
Dope vid! you just earned a new sub!!
Thank's! Welcome to the channel!
Decent work man!
👍
Amazing work and video ! You mentioned this is also doable with spray cans ! I would love to see you do more videos using spray cans ! Some of us don’t have spray guns and compressors to paint I’m sure you understand, anyways just a though have a great weekend buddy !!
I've got one coming up soon! Thank's for the support
Your sure doing a lot of work for such a little space on the rear bumper.
👍
Great video 👏
👍
Appreciate your skill and expertise. Great work!
My pleasure! I appreciate the support!
Great video Thanks.saved
Good video ! I was wondering would you try showing a repair with aerosol
For viewers that don't have a compressors or paint guns. I will have a video on it soon.
great video thanks
👍
Gorgeous
Excellent information as always. I've got a few small spots on my silver metallic truck that I would like to fix without re-painting the entire truck.. Your video-and the information within, will absolutely help me accomplish that.
Right on! Happy to help. Appreciate your comment and support!
EXCELLENT VIDEO,I was hoping you were going to use the type of blending clear that you put right in the gravity cup! Not dissapointented at all though . I always wondered if you should 1500 grit well beyond the blend to then come back with my high speed buff and 3m polishing compund and a foam pad..., you did answer all that for me thanks!!
Appreciate brother! Thank's for the comment and supporting the channel!
Very good technique and a clean looking finish. Nice work.
Thank's for the comment Jon! Appreciate the support for the channel!
Show how to repair newly painted panel with color and clear. Also keep area small. I'd love to see that. That keeps us from refinishing entire panel.
That's a video that is on my list to do. Appreciate the comment and support!
I'm body tech at a high-end shop 45 yrs experience. Spent the first 20 as painter. I'm not about to retire but have recently been doing combo in home shop. I still enjoy paint work but cost of material sucks the fun out of it. I just wanted to see if I could still do quality paint work at home , thanks for your videos looking forward to spot repair on fresh panel.
Excellent tips- you make it look easy! I'm repairing damage to a motorcycle carbon fibre cover that needs clearing just on the repair and not the entire piece, so I needed to understand how to do this and your vid helped. Is it possible or adviseable to mask off area, spray the clear, and then try to blend hard mask line w/ 1000- 1500?
Stay away from a hard mask line. Appreciate the support!
Came out great. Im looking into fixing under paint rust in a corner of my roof and a bird etching on the hood of my car thats deep into clear/paint. If anyone has some tips i would appreciate some feedback. Its a 11 subaru outback.
good work
👍🙏
Good job on what can turn into a cluster fck real quick. I’ve never used the blending agent, curious if it has a tendency to get cloudy after time. I always over reduce my clear with lacquer thinner after clearing and burn my edges. It blends good but usually dies back over time. Also, I usually dust my base on really dry…more air than fluid. Helps to keep original clear coat from wrinkling.
Good tips! A lot of different ways to do it. The blends will fail over time. Appreciate the comment and support!
excellent explination, i
Many thanks!
Good video.
Thanks!
U definitely know your stuff 👍 though most paint manufacturers say to use light grit sandpaper like 3000 on end of blends . Only recently did find out the gray sotchbrite is key to good blends. I know blends are not recommended or warranted by paint manufacturers is very good skill to have especially sectioning of rocker panel and pillars
Agreed good skill to have but only use it as last resort and with customers consent. Appreciate the support!
You can also back polish the blend zone with rubbing compound with a pad then clear right up to that area then immediately use upol #9 until the blend zone turn clear and most importantly dry the blender with low air on your gun you not need to buff nothing, saves a lot of time
Quick question...if you were planning to polish the entire car after fixing that area, would you still tape off the entire car?
Yes, clearcoat overspray will cover everything in an enclosed space.
Do you have a video on how to blend single stage ?
No I don't sorry.
i tried spot repairing an issue on my front bumper at the top where it meets the hood. When I sprayed the clear coat I hadn't seen this video yet so now I can see where the edge of the clearcoat I sprayed is and where the factory clear coat is as well. How would I redo this repair so you can't see the edge of the new clearcoat I sprayed? I'm concerned if I spray new clearcoat over this again that it's still going to show the edge of the clearcoat I just sprayed.
If you dont want any blend line it's best to clear the full bumper but if you don't want to do that you need to wet sand it down a larger area past the current blend add basecoat and then clear . Washbthe blend line in with reducer and finally buff making sure to buff away from the blend
I get that there's a market for this kind of work ie DIY guys and used cars but I hate when shops do this to my car. You always see that blend in a year or so no buffing that away. And it will peel around that chrome you taped up it can't be scuffed all the way down in there. Good stuff to learn though.
Agreed. This is a terrible repair especially considering it’s not hard or much more expensive to clear the entire bumper (the correct way.
@@jq8792 oke so we don’t need to repaint th whole bumper? only re-clear the whole bumper in this situation?
@@thomaswahahauw560 yes sir. Blend the repair area then clear the entire bumper.
Maybe customer wanted it done as cheep as possible
These bumper covers are so easy to remove it seems like it’s more of a pain to go through all the blending and creative masking than to just do the whole cover. Yes, paint is expensive, but add up that plastic used to cover the ENTIRE car plus the foam, the tape, the time, etc, versus only taping off the chrome and the scuff panel(in black, also deceptively easy to remove and replace, and removes any chances of the other commenter’s remark about the edges peeling. Indeed, if ANYTHING can grab an edge, it will, and subsequent attempts at sanding and buffing will undoubtedly find those edges and weaken their strength. Splitting hairs? You betcha I am, cause that’s the difference for longevity. Another person’s car? You may or may not care. Your own or family or friend’s car, you care. In 6 months or a year, do you really wanna hear even the most kind request to “touch up” your previous “fix”. I am knee deep into preventing just that as we speak on my mom’s car. I know her and know myself. If I see it. She will see it. If I are, she will care. Period. I can see the future, and if I don’t get it just right to MY standards, I’ll be doing again. I have painted parts of this SUV so many times I lost count. The hood, going into the teens. The passenger side I finally got so good it does t even need a cut-n-buff! Finally satisfied, as a cut-n-buff is how I got here in the first place, having burned through parts where I had put down so many coats of paint and clear I figured it would never get through. Wrong. In fact the OEM paint getting burned through was what led me here. I turned an average scratch and chip fix into a mostly full respray, all except the roof, where there was no rust, no dents, no dings, just chips and scratches, some pretty deep, and the blends just were not cutting it, pun intended. The finish I got on this last attempt, the passenger side, is so good I’m about to redo the drivers side. I definitely got myself into a hell of a bind but I’m forcing myself to learn something I once took for granted. Now, I understand why it could cost $10,000 for an OEM type repaint. Even though tons of hours have been spent on trial and error, the learning curve has been steep, but worth it, but I’m well into nearly 1,000 hours on this thing. Again, this last attempt has made the journey worth it. I still have a hard time looking at it and going, “damn, I did that!” An attempted run repair on the otherwise glass-like rear bumper cover brought me here, and watching this made me decide NOT to spot blend, but just respray it. The ends must justify the means. Always.
Good stuff, thank you!
I just tried this and I got some overspray beyond my sanded area that will scrape off with my nail. If I get all the extra loose clear off, how do I avoid the hard edge up to the point where it actually sticks? Will the upol #9 work even on the dry/semi cured clear edge? Hope that makes sense.
Upol #9 won't work after dry. It alway good to give yourself more prepared are for the blend cause you can always buff it after its cured.
Thank you sir. Good info.
Very welcome!
Is that no 9 like fade out thinners?
Why did you sand the right side of the bumper with 800 grit but the left side with a gray scuff pad that has a higher grit (1000-1500)? Why not use the gray scuff pad for the entire job?
On the right side I want a better a deeper scratch for adhesion. On the left I used the lighter scuff pad because It's where I blended the clear . I wanted to easily be able to buff the blend line. Appreciate your comment and support!
Good job!!
Thanks!
What do you do with leftover paint and clear. Can it be re-used or is it thrown out. Do you use 2 different guns or do you clean out the gun with base coat and use the same gun for clear.
When removing the masking , do you remove it once its fully cured , or 20 mins after or right away ? Thanks for the awesome videos and tips I appreciate it man
Not right away, about 20 minutes is good.
Lovely 😍.
Thanks 🤗
Usually what is the durability for blending lines to last ? Do also do them on panels that are normally facing the sun ? Thanks for the advise
It's hard to say but they will fail eventually. What I mean by fail is you'll be able to see them. The blends will last if it's not getting direct sunlight . Appreciate the comment and support!
Great job and thank you for your time and help. Question..can you use a slow reducer to blend in the clear if you don't have blenz in?
Yes, reducer works just as well but don't put in on heavy
Are you suggesting that we could use the 2k aerosol clear coat (or other type of aerosol clear coats) to use as a wet bed? I thought there was a difference between a clear base and a cleat coat. Nice video!
No don't use Aerosol clearcoat as a wet bed. Clear basecoat is what you want to use some call it a color blender. Speedcoat make a color blender that works well. Appreciate the comment and support!
You are amazing 💯
Thank you 🙌
Love it Chris, thanks tons! One question, clearing over the back up sensor is ok I guess hey? I never know if I should try to protect it or not.
Yes ,it's ok they are cleared from factory
Can you use a reducer instead of a blending agent
For the clear blend yes. Light coverage tho appreciate the support!
what happens when the blender is applied heavy and you get runs? it burned through for me and it still shows =(
Awesome
👊
thanks for showing how to clear coat blend. looks like i need a blender can before i proceed with my clear coat blend. Can we see few month later results? is clear coat blend still good? I noticed you put down wet bed, What is that? does that help clear coat blend?
You can just use reducer to wash in the blend it works well too. You don't have to use clear base but it helps metallics lay down. Check out this video for how to use aclear base.
ruclips.net/video/6TLp-YP2hfY/видео.html
Hi, so is the technique of blending paint or clear coat having a loose mask of paper so the paint or clear coat can sneak underneath mask? When you sprayed the clear coat, was there a noticeable difference in finishes on that bumper?
This is exactly what I am attempting, and could use the advice. Thanks
Follow the video but the idea of the paper is so you don't have a hard line of clear and yes so a little clear sneaks under there then spray over the blend with the upol #9 or a little bit of straight reducer will help it to melt in. Then a light buff away from the blend. There shouldn't be a difference in the finish othe than the blend area should only be slightly duller. Hope this helps appreciate the support!
For my bike, the clerk gave me the 1K instead the 2K. It's for my rear fender. Big scratch. Am I be ok with the 1K?
I would use 2k , you can use 1k takes longer to cure and sometimes it can react to basecoat or old paint. If you use the 1k apply it with light coats. Of course you want to sand out the scratch first.
@@GarageNoise thanks
When you say you turn your volume 2 turns out. Can you explain turns out from what starting point?
Two turns out from closed. So all the way in is closed . 2 turns out is the starting point in adjust as needed.
@@GarageNoise thanks. I’ve seen on some sites they use turns in from needle contact with the trigger when adjuster backed all the way out then turned in till contact with the trigger pulled all the way open then plus turns in. I’m going to try your method cause I use an awful lot of paint even when turning in 3 or 4 turns.
Oh…I really enjoy your concise explanation and detail in all your videos.
Chris, i am using Kleenstrip Prep all as my Wax and grease remover then i wipe with alcohol and see some minor fish eye. Can you tell me what Waz grease remover you use please.?
Kleenstip is what I use. Luis we're you the one I was talking to about solvent pops ? Are you using clean rags?
With the wet bed/clear base I’ve seen a few videos on it, but do you apply your base immediately after that clear base while still wet, or do you allow it to begin flashing?
Jarrett, I feel like either way works well . If I'm sprayin a silver or gold I try to apply the color while the clear base is wet. Appreciate the support brother!
If you were using the cans would you still use the clear before putting on the paint . If so would you use the same clear for after aswell as before ?
What I put on before paint is clear base coat, not clear coat. Some other names are color blender or wet bed. It's not completely necessary on a small job.
I use aerosal from Microfinish on my repairs. Curious about whether my Ingersoll Rand 2hp 20 gallon needs an air dryer for an occasional paint job. And what gun to order if I decide to step it up. Do guns have a filter on them I see the regulator.
I add a inline water trap. Cheap insurance
@@GarageNoise I have that for my air tools. Thx
Ty
👍👊
Lifesaver here!!!
Thank's brother!
For something small like this I would just scuff up the reaming bumper prime and paint, I hate the blending
I do too. I don't recommend it but point of the video is to demo how to do it. Appreciate the comment and!
Nice 👍🏽
What kind of paint gun are you using that requires 30psi at the inlet? That's insane. I never go more than 10 at the inlet.
i am curious about how the blend of basecoat occurs. Won't the new atomized basecoat boundary still be visible of the left because of difference in color and faint overspray etc. ? I understand that color blending with clear coat is less of an issue and sanding afterwards will improve the blend of clear.
The basecoat blen is less likely to be visible than the clear blend as lon as the color is a close enough color match.
@@GarageNoise I will have to try it next time. I wonder why they don''t make or use a blending solvent for basecoat like they have for clearcoat.
@@rcarioca check out my videos on wet bed, clear basecoat that is what is typically used for blending difficult basecoat like silvers or other metallics.
How long would you say this kind of repair lasts before failing?
Hard to say this being that it's down low and away from the sun probably years.
Great video. How much a job like this will cost
Not a client's vehicle but I would think around $300.00
Great video Chris I do love these smart repair job's well explained now the spray gun you was using was a 2 cfm what cfm was your compressor I am interested in getting a compressor what cfm do you recommend for a 2 or 3 cfm spray gun also how dose it spray with a 2 cfm is it more controlled thank you for this video would not mine seeing another smart repair video
The gun I'm using requires 4.25 cfm to operate consistently. Viewers have said they use this gun with a 25 gal compressor from harbor freight. I haven't been able to test this gun with a small compressor but plan to. Get the largest cfm compressor that you can afford. Mine produces 16-17 cfm's. Thank's for watching!
Summitracing LVLP says 3-4cfm but its pretty much the same gun as LT100. I have both and the aircap are the same. I use a 20 gal Husky quiet compressor.
Hello I can get hold of a 50 liter with 2 hsp 9cfm do you think I won't be ok with this compresaer to run a lvlp
@@husky1239 I think it would run this gun for sure.
Thanks for that so I would be ok I mean 50 liters I like 10 gallons 20 gallons would be 90 liters I suppose if the hsp is 2.5 it would be good