Honest Pros and Cons of a Bambu Labs P1S 3d Printer : The Pro’s First
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- Опубликовано: 18 апр 2024
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#3dprinting #BambuLab #P1S #CoreXY #AffordablePrinter #AMSsystem #EnclosedPrinter #AutoBedLeveling #VersatilePrinting
Explaining how easy Bambu Studio is a nice pro for people who are new to 3D printing. I think the ease of use is the most beneficial pro of the Bambu printers. I would definitely use the advanced mode in the slicer and learn more about the different settings. You don't have to mess with the speed so much but tweaking some quality, strength, and support settings are important for various prints. Like I personally use .28 or .24 resolution a lot because the quality is still incredible while speeding up the process. Changing the infill pattern is actually very important too and for some reason every printer manufacture defaults to a grid pattern that can cause layer shifts when printing at higher speeds. Using Gyroid is great for added strength and stability while also being able to use less filament. I usually use 6-15% Gyroid and its faster/stronger than using 25-40% Grid. I also use Rectilinear a lot too because its very similar to the Grid pattern but its one of the fastest infills to print. Strength isn't as good as Gyroid but you can still get away with a lower infill density while being faster. I have found that 100% infill with Rectilinear is actually faster than using 70% Gyroid. Now you don't need 100% infill on many models but its great to know its quicker if you do need it. I don't like using Rectilinear with PETG though because it doesn't print as well for me and the infill doesn't seem as strong but PLA has been great. Messing with the support settings can be very beneficial as well. I usually use Tree supports as much as possible because they can use less filament, are quicker, come off easier. I like to change the first layer expansion to 4 or 5mm so the supports don't fail on longer prints and in some cases I will ad a raft layer. Bambu Studio doesnt have this setting but in Orca Slicer, I usually set the branch density from 40-60% depending on the model. I have found that it supports the model way better and when you break off the supports, you are left with a more even surface than the 30% they have by default.
Definitely download OrcaSlicer and watch tons of videos on the calibration process as well as various settings to adjust. Not too many specifically for the P1S but these settings can apply to almost any FDM printer. Bambu Studio is just a fork of OrcaSlicer so they don't get as many features as quick as Orca but you can easily login with your Bambu account and the settings are saved across the two slicers. Orca is basically identical to Bambu Studio so its going to feel very comfortable to use. Tinkercad is really cool too and more user friendly but it can be limiting, I would look into learning Onshape. They have a free version thats extremely powerful but it can be harder to learn. I'm still learning it myself but there are so many more tools and benefits with certain models. Fusion360 is still everyone's go to but if you aren't a student then it can get pretty expensive. Its also more difficult to learn than Tinkercad. The cardboard spools can cause issues in the AMS and not all solutions online actually fix the problem but they can help. I hear adding electrical tape around the edge of the cardboard makes them grip better, some people print the rings to snap on, and I think the most beneficial is used large heavier ball bearings in the center of the spools. They are on Amazon fairly cheap and they help prevent the spool from slipping. The AMS lite is better when using cardboard spools but you also have the filament out in the open and it doesn't work with the P1S. I get why companies use cardboard spools but I think they should just go to reusable plastic spools and selling refills. You can also print a filament winder that I recommend as well because it makes it more simple to rewind filament on a plastic spool as well as ensure there are no tangles. Even spools that are neatly wound can have tangles and it should be impossible when they are spooling but I have had them half way through brand new spools and it ruined the prints. Another helpful tip is to order filament online rather than getting them in store. I got 3 spools at MicroCenter when I bought my P1S and they were $27-35 a spool of PLA that I can get for $10-25 on Amazon. The inland filament is not worth more than $18 a spool and the Cookiecad filament I got was really nice but Eryone filament is a lot cheaper and better in most cases. Cookiecad has some really nice colors that more brands are starting to come out with but $35 a spool is just stupid. A lot of people use Kingroon filament and you can get them for as little as $90 for 10 rolls on their website or ebay. They are usually the same color spool but you can pay a little more and get 10 rolls of various colors. I haven't personally used them yet but its been a lot of peoples go to. I also really like Eryone's filament and if you order in bulk on their website you can them as little as $13 a spool. Elegoo's Rapid PLA+ and PETG are usually my go to right now but I only use their black or white because its way cheaper. 4 spools of the Rapid PLA+ in Black is usually around $47 and the PETG is usually around $41. Their PETG is really nice too and I can actually print it as fast if not faster than their Rapid PLA and that's crazy because most PETG's max out their volumetric flow at 12-15 mm3/s when I'm running it at 22 mm3/s. My other go to at the moment is GST3D PLA+ because I had about 6 spools left over from an order 2 years ago. I don't recommend them now because the company went downhill a little over a year ago but IIIDMAX was a sister company who had better QC and they sell the spools at the same price when buying bulk. I have only used their PLA+ but buying 10 spools for $8-12 each depending on sales, is really nice. I can also run them just as fast as my other high speed filaments and I think the max volumetric flow I got was 25 mm3/s but I usually run them at 20 mm3/s. Anyway, hope this information is helpful and can help with any reliability issues you might have.
How much would it cost to print a 6-hour object, from a print-farm business? I imagine having someone else do the print is going to be the better option if if you're only going to do a print every once in a while?
Aside from Lidar , and more material support , any thoughts between the Bambu P1S and X1C? Infimech TX printer?
Have not had a chance to use the x1c. The P1s is definitely fast. Time will depend on the complexity of the design and the number of colors. But these Bambu labs printers are fast.
oh gosh careful with cardboard spools in the ams, the dust from the board grinding can build up and cause weird issues.
what i do is i peel the sides off and keep the filament held to the core and put it in one of bambu's reusable spools. if you goof up though you could get spaghetti so be careful with my pro-strategy
Great tip. Cardboard spools are definitely not that great. But that’s all they sell in the store near me
What the hell does tinkercad or meeting people when buying filament have to do with a bambu labs printer? This is an absolute waste of time for a video.
Sorry it upset u so much. Just some interesting conversations as a first timer buying a 3 d printer that I had with other enthusiasts of the same printer. Happens often when I am at a store buying pla and people just bond over it and begin conversations. It’s fascinating.
You'll live.
@@averagedesijoe9494 It didnt upset me more than irritated me after watching it for points specific to bambu only to have ramblings about non bambu specific topics. I've got an ender3 pro and a bambu x1c myself and there are dramatic differences between the 2 and a lot to praise (several things to knock too) about the x1c no reason to bring in non bambu related praises otherwise the video title is wrong.
@@jamiemacdonald436 no i wont. i'm already dead.
Guess you aren't one of those interesting people. Man shut the hell up this guy is just genuinely enjoying his printer and you're getting all worked up about him mentioning a positive that's related.