Richard Raffan turns a thin pot using traditional gouges and scrapers.
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- Опубликовано: 4 апр 2024
- The blank for this 75mm/ 3” diameter enclosed vessel proved to be taller than I needed, so you see nifty bowl-saving on a small scale. There are excellent shots of a ½-in gouge shaping the profile, and holding bowl gouges and scrapers whilst hollowing. You see two options for reverse chucking as I remove the foot/tenon to complete the base. See the blank being cut in • Richard Raffan convert...
Good heavens Richard, between you and Tomasic plus two more of the ‘fab 4’ I am pushed for time to watch all your presentations. I loved your ancient medieval goblet, like an object found in a castle from years past, quite remarkable finish. Once again many thanks for another top presentation.😊
As always I really enjoy the ease with which you do your turning. I know you have had a LOT of practice but it's still nice to watch and I always pick up a bit more knowledge. Thanks for all you do.
i love how you needed to put it back between centres to finish it off, so you just turned a purpose timber for it so not to damage the bowl so casually
Such a pretty little pot. Thank you for walking us through your process and instructing us along the way. I always enjoy your videos and seem to learn something new every time. Thank you!
Great video. It's nice to see the tools and how you use it with the motions. Most of the time watching people turn we only get to see the cutting end. Watching the whole tool interaction showed me where I was holding the tool incorrectly to get the results I wanted. Again thanks for another great video.
Your turnings are graceful and educational instilling many ideas for my own turning.
I'm always learning and motivated by you especially how you can turn a small lump of wood into something useful
Everything you seem to do is just fantastic including your books, I have been turning for about four years and if one day I can be as good as you my life will be complete.
To make your new drill less aggressive, use a fine diamond hone and stroke it across the sharp cutting edges at right angles, just a couple of gentle strokes, then test it, repeat if necessary. This is how we make drill bits suitable for drilling brass and many metal sheet materials. Greetings from Tasmania 😁
My experience is that it's primarily a size problem: the larger the drill, the faster it's pulled into the wood even when very well used. I wanted a black ¼" drill but couldn't find one - black, so depth marks are easier to see.
Great job Richard! I love the pattern of the wood as well as this design. I always like when you make jam chucks as that's what I often have to do simply because I don't yet have many chucks! And to be honest, I prefer making chucks as it helps keep me thinking and figuring things out. As we use to say on a job I had many years ago, there's more than one way to skin a cat!!
Making jam chucks is very good for your technique, and once you to come to terms with them they're usually faster than messing around with bowl jaws or Longworth jaws.
Wow.... Fantastic tip on final fitting of your screw chuck shim pieces.... That was my job this morning, as my 3-in-1 screw chuck arrived this week
Beautiful little pot. I love the way it warped.
Great video and really useful to see your hand positions using the different camera angle. Loving seeing the different gouges and scrapers used as well, all contributing in slightly different ways to get the desired outcome. Thanks for sharing.
So great watching the MASTER.
That's a sweet pot
Very beautiful Richard.
Very nice another great project. thanks.
Simply beautiful.
Excellent video, Thank you
My back won’t let me bend over the lathe for those deep inside curves. I use set screws in the holes provided in my chuck to tighten it to the spindle so it won’t unscrew and then turn in reverse. It works for me and lets me stand pretty much straight up while turning. I hope this helps someone else.
It is always instructive and enjoyable watching your work. Seeing the different ways you hold the workpieces is very helpful. You stated that you put the piece in the microwave for one minute at a time. Is that to mitigate risk of the piece catching on fire or would leaving the piece in the microwave too long risk causing cracks?
You want a bowl coming out of the microwave too hot to handle. The time required varies according to the size and thickness of the bowl, the wood species and it's moisture content, and your microwave oven. Always keep a close eye on a bowl being cooked and the moment you hear cracking, or smell or hear bubbling within the wood, cut the power immediately. Never leave a cooking bowl unattended.
Im relatively new to turning, beautiful to watch your use of the original tools and methods, can i ask what the main reason is to turn a small pot in cross grain and not end grain,
I never recommend turning bowls endgrain for a number of reasons, not least because crossgrain is far stronger than endgrain - and it's much easier to hollow. On top of that I wanted the pot to distort, and that's unlikely to happen much with endgrain.
That steamed elm sure looks hot! You have a good eye for design and proportion. Speaking of hot, how would boiled linseed oil work on warm elm wood? Have you ever tried it?
I want the moisture out of the bowls being microwaved, so don't want anything on the surface that might slow the process. My theory is that once the wood is 10% moisture or less it'll absorb a finish like a sponge.
Another great video,one question where can I buy a set of calliper’s like yours from ,searched online all I can find is those horrible figure of 8 aluminium looking things.Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks for sharing your vast experience.
They're made for Lee Vallery in Canada.
Great video. Your 1/2" spindle gouge always looks to have "higher sides" than mine, is it the super flute type?
A Superflute is a deep-fluted bowl gouge made by Henry Taylor. The spindle gouge I use here is a Czech Gurtool that is much the same profile as a Sorby, Henry Taylor, Hamlet or D-Way spindle gouges I also use.
Richard: I have limited access to green wood, but I do have access to kiln dried 8/4 wood, such as cherry, walnut, hard maple, and oak. I would like to do some things similar to your green wood turnings that you turn thin, and then put in a microwave and you get significant, sometime, but always lovely, warping. I’m wondering if I could soak this kiln dried wood either before or after turning to raise its moisture content and then put it in the microwave to get warping. What do you think? Would this result in warping wood? And should I saturate the wood before or after turning, and then put it in the microwave? Thanks very much. Ned.
Unfortunately soaking dried blanks won't do it. Soaking finished bowls might lead to distortion but chances are they'll return to their original shape as they dry out. You really need green timber not much over three months felled. If you're in a city you need to find an arborist or approach gardeners in parks where trees might be pruned. One advantage of turning green is that you can consider small logs 6" and up.
Thank you, Richard. Good advice as always. And thanks for your prompt reply. Ned.
Are those the best calipers for what you're doing?
They are the best I have, being the easiest to use.
Oh _NO!_
This title says he's gonna use *_CARBIDE_* next time!1
;-)
The nearest I get to carbide is the stelllite tip on a McNaughton Undercutter. I never found carbide tipped tools hold a really keen edge for more than a few minutes. They rarely make turning easier or more efficient and lead to far more sanding than is required with traditional tools.
Could you please explain the rationale behind using a wood plate between the screw chuck and the piece to be turned. You are consistently saying you do not need a long screw but is there any harm in going an extra quarter inch or is it because the piece has better support with a wooden plate?
There's no harm in using the full length of the screw, but that takes longer. I use spacers to save time. It takes more time to wind a blank fully on to the full length of the screw. If I throw the blank on, it's more likely to jam on and take a lot more time to unwind. When turning 20 or 30 bowls a day, or roughing several dozen, an extra 15-20 seconds for each bowl becomes 7-10 minutes - time enough to rough three or four 8"/200mm diameter bowls.
In this video you removed the foot at the end for aesthetic purposes but I've had a curiosity. Before the days of the 'modern chucks' were foots on finished bowls regular practice? You've talked about both 'old methods of rechucking to remove feet' in the ways of jam chucks and the like but also the inspirations gained from ceramicists whose bowls I note typically have feet.
A bit of a question of the chicken and the egg. Were feet on finished bowls a result of saving time by not removing what the new chucks grabbed or was the foot on a bowl already common practice and simply room for innovation in workholding?
Thanks for another excellent video.
In the 1970s most bowls over 200mm diameter were turned using faceplates and screw holes were filled with wooden plugs or plastic wood. Many bases were covered with baize. Smaller bowls were held initially on a screw chuck, then in an engineers 3-jaw chuck grasping a foot/tenon. To remove the chuck jaw marks and shape the foot, bowls went between centres or into a jam chuck. In 1978 Craft Supplies UK introduced their Spigot Chuck that enabled me to take small finished bowls out of the chuck, eliminating completion between centres and jam chucking. Commercially, that saved a lot of time with minimal design consequences. This was a few years before the woodturning revival really gathered pace in the mid-1980s.
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We cant see what you are or how you are cutting into the inside.
camewra position incorrect.
Not incorrect!!! This camera position was chosen so people can see how to hold the tools and the angles of approach as the tools cut. Several of my videos show hollowing enclosed forms from the tailstock end. I refer you to ruclips.net/video/OeVAGEsAzjY/видео.html
You sure now how to use those tools
40 years of turning repetitively for a living provides a bit of practice.
I have 20 years in, but I’m not half as good! Not even close 😊