Hi Harry and thank you for your inspiration especially with HMS Warspite. I have the Airfix model of this ship and am feeling confident about starting it. It's homage to my late uncle who served onboard her at the outbreak of WWII before becoming a submariner. Thank you again and I am now enjoying the rest of your videos
Your tribute to your father has also brought back some find memories of my father who passed away a few years ago aged 86. He helped me with my Airfix model of HMS Hood and I think Bismark too or one of the many WW2 warships I was making as a teenager in the early 80's. He painted the waterline mark by hand with a brush in a few strokes with absolute precision, a skill I have always tried to emulate with varying degrees of success. He used to be a signwriter in Brisbane and worked on the old flying boats for QANTAS and others. He would sit in a dingey in the water next to the aircraft bobbing up and down anyway so thanks for that. Also like to mention that the Plimsoll line is different to the lesser known Plumsanall line. The expression no hitting below the belt came from the Marquis of Queensberry rule "No striking beneath the Plumsanall line". Cheers mate.
Great video. Funny you showed exactly what made me end my ship building. Back when dinosaurs walk the earth I didn't think of a way to get that line or red to work. Nice save.
@@HarryHoudiniModels Hahahaha!!! And this is why I watch. Hey patreon had another brain fart. I upgraded my donation and wanted them to start it on the 3 and naturally they tried to get it today. My retirement is on the third of the month. I pay my bills with my veterans disability on the first so I'm always broke on the first anymore. So thanks to our inept government haha. Hell they'll probably take all of my earnings soon anyway. Then another Civil War. I'll probably get killed. Oh well I'm blessed. God bless Harry. Enjoy your channel.
Patreon has finally changed billing dates to when you sign up. But it doesn’t help previous supporters, you are stuck with the 1st of the month. I’m not sure if you can leave, then come back on a different date, which would then become your regular monthly bill date. Might be worth a try.
Hello. I am really liking this series. You have some very useful tips. Just a FYI. Shafts come out of the hull at an angle of about 3 degrees. They also splay out slightly. This is to give clearance for the propellers. When looking from behind on British ships, the props turn clockwise on the starboard (right) side, and anti clockwise on the port (left) side. I find it difficult to tell the left handed from right handed propellers on small scale kits these days (dodgy eyes), but they should be clearly indicated in the instructions. Anyway. You are doing a great job of it. Carry on everybody. you have all done very well.
At this scale things like prop screws are very tiny. Plus I don’t think Airfix supplied both clockwise and anticlockwise versions, as I have seen on larger scale ship models. Yes there can be a slight degree of splay with prop shafts, but again we are working at 1:600 scale where nuisances like that are imperceptible and simply not worth worrying about
Very enjoyable Harry, good tip to mark out the line. But that's not a plimsoll line. It's called the "boot topping". A plimsoll line is white and is circular marked with horizontal lines to show loading conditions in different waters.
You are referring to the plimsol mark, also known as the plimsoll line. The ships waterline is an extension of that plimsoll mark and sometimes called the plimsol line along the hull… ie it is the extension of the plimsol mark.
Hi Harry, just wanted to say I think your channel is terrific. You have (unknowingly) been by my side through some difficult evenings. You are a very interesting and funny man and I hope you and your channel all the best
When I first started building ships I used the supplies black tape which after time would start coming off. Then I started painting them using the tried and true eyeball method, but I like your block of wood method pretty slick. Gonna try it on my next build this winter , with things slowing down now I may be able to finish my 1/350 HMS Dreadnought. Hope you have a great day !
Thanks Harry for another great video. Your ship is coming along nicely. 👍 I had similar experience with a ink marker pen several months back on my 1/48 A7A. Being clever (not), I used the paint pen to contrast the A7’s panel lines. The light coating of Tamiya grey, did not like the paint in the panel lines, and chemical reaction was horrible. I had strip all the paint off and start again. I did learn something about different paints and inks. 😮I will not do that again. 😬
Harry Loving re-watching you build this as a memorial to your father. However, I am not seeing an end video. I am guessing that you're still working on this. Is the completion of this model in your plans?
I had planned to be working on the Warspite and my other battleship builds by now, but the year hasn’t panned out as I expected. This May I’m trying to catch up on the rigging for my much neglected St Louis, but have the Warspite ready in my sights for next month.
The Warspite is coming along nicely Harry, and it looks like it will be a fitting tribute to your late Father when it is completed. I was interested to see you strain the LifeColor paint before use, and your reason for doing so. I have been using some of the LifeColor paints recently, and I have not had a problem with them. I haven’t felt the need to strain the paint so far, and I have had no issues with ‘tip dry’ or pigments blocking the airbrush. I think they are a really good paint for certain subjects, and the weathering pigments that they make are also an excellent product. Have you had any other issues with this paint? P.S. We had a glimpse of your new hobby room, and it looks brilliant. I for one am jealous! Cheers from below the border!
I think my Lifecolor paints got cooked in the hot hobby room I used on the farm. It would get to 40 in there and was why I had the portable aircon permanently installed to cool the room down. There was also contamination when sone steel paint mix balls I bought, recommended for acrylic paints, started to rust in my Lifecolor bottles. So a number of factors could have caused the issues I had. New stock has proved much more reliable but I strain anyway, especially Stynylrez, to avoid clogging the airbrush with any blobs of dried paint or other contaminants.
@John yes I’ve heard about hematite, however I think it is also water soluble. I switched to stainless steel balls as used by water based paint manufacturers . consciousitems.com/blogs/practice/water-crystals-what-crystals-can-go-in-water
Glass is inert, you can drink water out of a glass.. just be careful not to smash them or you’ll get shards in your paint. One of the best alternatives, or so I am told, are ceramic beads.
Bonjour Harry, don't do pens ,always some problem and after a while it will fade ! Great tips for fixing up stuff ups mate , I find i get more enjoyment fixing kits than building them , have a good one mate 👍
Not Textas… these are acrylic paint pens using the same stuff as model paints… I’ve had no fading on anything I’ve used the Posca Paint Pens on… and the Molotow Chrome pens are brilliant. This Molotow black pen just dissolved with my Lifecolor thinner.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi Harry and thank you for your inspiration especially with HMS Warspite. I have the Airfix model of this ship and am feeling confident about starting it. It's homage to my late uncle who served onboard her at the outbreak of WWII before becoming a submariner. Thank you again and I am now enjoying the rest of your videos
Thanks Paul… I will continue that build early next year and hopefully complete it in 2024.
Your tribute to your father has also brought back some find memories of my father who passed away a few years ago aged 86. He helped me with my Airfix model of HMS Hood and I think Bismark too or one of the many WW2 warships I was making as a teenager in the early 80's. He painted the waterline mark by hand with a brush in a few strokes with absolute precision, a skill I have always tried to emulate with varying degrees of success. He used to be a signwriter in Brisbane and worked on the old flying boats for QANTAS and others. He would sit in a dingey in the water next to the aircraft bobbing up and down anyway so thanks for that.
Also like to mention that the Plimsoll line is different to the lesser known Plumsanall line.
The expression no hitting below the belt came from the Marquis of Queensberry rule
"No striking beneath the Plumsanall line". Cheers mate.
Ha ha that is a good one
Great video. Funny you showed exactly what made me end my ship building. Back when dinosaurs walk the earth I didn't think of a way to get that line or red to work. Nice save.
Yes dinosaurs always have problems with thin lines, it’s the very short hands on T-Rex that hold them back from enjoying model making.
@@HarryHoudiniModels
Hahahaha!!! And this is why I watch. Hey patreon had another brain fart. I upgraded my donation and wanted them to start it on the 3 and naturally they tried to get it today. My retirement is on the third of the month. I pay my bills with my veterans disability on the first so I'm always broke on the first anymore. So thanks to our inept government haha. Hell they'll probably take all of my earnings soon anyway. Then another Civil War. I'll probably get killed. Oh well I'm blessed. God bless Harry. Enjoy your channel.
Patreon has finally changed billing dates to when you sign up. But it doesn’t help previous supporters, you are stuck with the 1st of the month. I’m not sure if you can leave, then come back on a different date, which would then become your regular monthly bill date. Might be worth a try.
Hello. I am really liking this series. You have some very useful tips. Just a FYI. Shafts come out of the hull at an angle of about 3 degrees. They also splay out slightly. This is to give clearance for the propellers. When looking from behind on British ships, the props turn clockwise on the starboard (right) side, and anti clockwise on the port (left) side. I find it difficult to tell the left handed from right handed propellers on small scale kits these days (dodgy eyes), but they should be clearly indicated in the instructions. Anyway. You are doing a great job of it. Carry on everybody. you have all done very well.
At this scale things like prop screws are very tiny. Plus I don’t think Airfix supplied both clockwise and anticlockwise versions, as I have seen on larger scale ship models. Yes there can be a slight degree of splay with prop shafts, but again we are working at 1:600 scale where nuisances like that are imperceptible and simply not worth worrying about
Very enjoyable Harry, good tip to mark out the line. But that's not a plimsoll line. It's called the "boot topping". A plimsoll line is white and is circular marked with horizontal lines to show loading conditions in different waters.
You are referring to the plimsol mark, also known as the plimsoll line. The ships waterline is an extension of that plimsoll mark and sometimes called the plimsol line along the hull… ie it is the extension of the plimsol mark.
I like the pedestals that you are using.
They are the Pontos ones…
Hi Harry, just wanted to say I think your channel is terrific. You have (unknowingly) been by my side through some difficult evenings. You are a very interesting and funny man and I hope you and your channel all the best
Thank you so much Joseph… it really makes my day to know that.
good fettling Harry, hope youre good Chap, nice to see another video
Thanks matey.. I always enjoy a good fettle
Those lines on the waterline are always a challenge on full hull ships. I will keep this method in mind.
It is a simple but effective solution
Good that you can have a fiddle on this kit rather than a simple put together 👍
You know me Basil… I like a good fiddle
Thanks!
Good on you Shane… Super Thanks
That's great Harry what you did with the waterline,except... I always cut off my ships to the waterline!!!
I had that option with the donor kit, but then I would have to make a seascape to put it on. Sadly I don’t have enough display space to do that.
Yes, it's difficult to settle on one method to make a Sea! I have used bathroom silicone and also papier mache.
Thanks Harry for all the great tips.
Thanks for dropping in
When I first started building ships I used the supplies black tape which after time would start coming off. Then I started painting them using the tried and true eyeball method, but I like your block of wood method pretty slick. Gonna try it on my next build this winter , with things slowing down now I may be able to finish my 1/350 HMS Dreadnought. Hope you have a great day !
Hope it works for you George
Thanks Harry for another great video. Your ship is coming along nicely. 👍
I had similar experience with a ink marker pen several months back on my 1/48 A7A. Being clever (not), I used the paint pen to contrast the A7’s panel lines. The light coating of Tamiya grey, did not like the paint in the panel lines, and chemical reaction was horrible. I had strip all the paint off and start again. I did learn something about different paints and inks. 😮I will not do that again. 😬
Yes I know the issue with ink or alcohol based pens, but my Posca Paint pens were water based. Maybe Molotow has some alcohol in the mix?
Harry Loving re-watching you build this as a memorial to your father. However, I am not seeing an end video. I am guessing that you're still working on this. Is the completion of this model in your plans?
I had planned to be working on the Warspite and my other battleship builds by now, but the year hasn’t panned out as I expected. This May I’m trying to catch up on the rigging for my much neglected St Louis, but have the Warspite ready in my sights for next month.
The Warspite is coming along nicely Harry, and it looks like it will be a fitting tribute to your late Father when it is completed. I was interested to see you strain the LifeColor paint before use, and your reason for doing so. I have been using some of the LifeColor paints recently, and I have not had a problem with them. I haven’t felt the need to strain the paint so far, and I have had no issues with ‘tip dry’ or pigments blocking the airbrush. I think they are a really good paint for certain subjects, and the weathering pigments that they make are also an excellent product. Have you had any other issues with this paint?
P.S. We had a glimpse of your new hobby room, and it looks brilliant. I for one am jealous!
Cheers from below the border!
I think my Lifecolor paints got cooked in the hot hobby room I used on the farm. It would get to 40 in there and was why I had the portable aircon permanently installed to cool the room down. There was also contamination when sone steel paint mix balls I bought, recommended for acrylic paints, started to rust in my Lifecolor bottles. So a number of factors could have caused the issues I had. New stock has proved much more reliable but I strain anyway, especially Stynylrez, to avoid clogging the airbrush with any blobs of dried paint or other contaminants.
@@HarryHoudiniModels Heard about contamination from steel mix balls got a recommendation to use 4mm Hematite beads by Charming Beads works fine
@John yes I’ve heard about hematite, however I think it is also water soluble. I switched to stainless steel balls as used by water based paint manufacturers .
consciousitems.com/blogs/practice/water-crystals-what-crystals-can-go-in-water
@@HarryHoudiniModels Thanks Harry will keep a eye on my paint just when you though its safe, how about glass beads ? you can find them on E-bay
Glass is inert, you can drink water out of a glass.. just be careful not to smash them or you’ll get shards in your paint. One of the best alternatives, or so I am told, are ceramic beads.
A bird in the hand may be worth two in the bush
BUT
A hand in the bush beats them all!
So true… you are very wise ;)
A hand on the bird is worth two on the bush
Bonjour Harry, don't do pens ,always some problem and after a while it will fade ! Great tips for fixing up stuff ups mate , I find i get more enjoyment fixing kits than building them , have a good one mate 👍
Not Textas… these are acrylic paint pens using the same stuff as model paints… I’ve had no fading on anything I’ve used the Posca Paint Pens on… and the Molotow Chrome pens are brilliant. This Molotow black pen just dissolved with my Lifecolor thinner.
@@HarryHoudiniModels ill be looking for the gold one for the Wasa 👍👍👍👍
Lookin shipshape Harry but I guess thats what you want it is a ship after all
Ship yeah mate
@@HarryHoudiniModels ahoy watch the language :P