Thank you for this! Looks like the dates on the bottle make it good for around 2 years after manufacture. I look forward to giving this a go after I cut my teeth on some of the less expensive Siraya Tech castable stuff.
Came out fantastically! I'd advice a touch of Anti Aliasing to blend/hide the layer lines, and design the sprue as part of the printing sprue/supports, it's very commen these days to integrate it so you don' t need to waste resin oby throwing them, or wax on making them again. Can do that in Blender, don't need to use a slicer to make support/sprues xD ;)
Nice work! just a tip for you, you can use the resin to fill in any hole that the print might have and the just use a UV flashlight or nail cure light to cure the resin in the hole. then you can clean it up as you'd normally do. This is a tip that us car modelers use when we 3D print a model replica of a car or jet or whatever. and it is especially useful when putting parts together that have less than perfect fit with each other. Also, don't know if you know this but I'll tell you anyways, the opposite side of the tip of your X-acto knife is designed to be a scraper, so you can use the tip's dull side to clean up any surfaces that don't meet your standards. Thanks for sharing this print to cast bronze ring, makes me want to get some of that resin and make a cast ring of my own. The Idea of having a ring no one else on the planet has, is definitely alluring, but I don't have anything remotely like metal melting equipment to make a ring with. gonna have to consider this for a bit to see if I might be able to finagle an alternative. Great work, BTW!
I've never tried the true blue but I found the Siraya tech purple difficult to work with too. I saw your recent video on the Neytiri casting and it came out great!
@@GraceNoteForge and @lundgrenbronzestudios use the 50/50 blue/purple, best of both worlds :P hehe I mean bluecast x-one is the best, but for price, siraya blue/purple is a pretty good mix, tho curing in glycerin is a nuisance lol I've had consistently good casts with it, just a bit weaker post print than atypical resins for minis and the like, but so are most specialty jewellery casting resins I've tried. I'm still more fond of printing a single master in this, then making a vulcanised rubber mould (or RTV silicone if it's bigger) to make wax copies and using wax on the whole tho, works out cheaper for bulk and less bothersome xD
You could also get rid of the bubbles by putting the resin in your vacuum chamber; bubbles tend to cling more to jewelry resin more, I’d imagine, since it is less dense and has these micro crevices.
Nice video. I use a mixture of vegetable glycerin/water 75/25 to cure my models. It seems to really help minimize surface defects in the casting. I've been using B9 emerald resin for years. I may have to give this a try.
Nice results , this Wax look like green carwing wax ?) if you need some Floral type of 3dmodels or classic solitaires for 3dprint tests I can provide own designs for you 😉
Essas marcas de camada esta muito errado, e essa ainda não é a resina ideal, ela deixa a peça áspera, ela machuca as paredes na hora da queima, a cera deixa liso.
Thank you for this! Looks like the dates on the bottle make it good for around 2 years after manufacture. I look forward to giving this a go after I cut my teeth on some of the less expensive Siraya Tech castable stuff.
Awesome! I hope you have some good casting results as well 😁
I've stuff 4 years old and still works the same lol xD Doubt it will ever expire haha
Ty
Came out fantastically! I'd advice a touch of Anti Aliasing to blend/hide the layer lines, and design the sprue as part of the printing sprue/supports, it's very commen these days to integrate it so you don' t need to waste resin oby throwing them, or wax on making them again. Can do that in Blender, don't need to use a slicer to make support/sprues xD ;)
Thank you! Yea, some anti aliasing would definitely help with those layer lines. Adding sprues in Blender is a good way to go about it too.
Nice work! just a tip for you, you can use the resin to fill in any hole that the print might have and the just use a UV flashlight or nail cure light to cure the resin in the hole. then you can clean it up as you'd normally do. This is a tip that us car modelers use when we 3D print a model replica of a car or jet or whatever. and it is especially useful when putting parts together that have less than perfect fit with each other. Also, don't know if you know this but I'll tell you anyways, the opposite side of the tip of your X-acto knife is designed to be a scraper, so you can use the tip's dull side to clean up any surfaces that don't meet your standards. Thanks for sharing this print to cast bronze ring, makes me want to get some of that resin and make a cast ring of my own. The Idea of having a ring no one else on the planet has, is definitely alluring, but I don't have anything remotely like metal melting equipment to make a ring with. gonna have to consider this for a bit to see if I might be able to finagle an alternative. Great work, BTW!
Because you're using wax casting in this case, you're better off filling with wax while you're fixing it to the sprue.
Interesting I just got a resin printer and have been trying siraya tech true blue. I find it hard to work with.
I've never tried the true blue but I found the Siraya tech purple difficult to work with too. I saw your recent video on the Neytiri casting and it came out great!
@@GraceNoteForge and @lundgrenbronzestudios use the 50/50 blue/purple, best of both worlds :P hehe I mean bluecast x-one is the best, but for price, siraya blue/purple is a pretty good mix, tho curing in glycerin is a nuisance lol I've had consistently good casts with it, just a bit weaker post print than atypical resins for minis and the like, but so are most specialty jewellery casting resins I've tried.
I'm still more fond of printing a single master in this, then making a vulcanised rubber mould (or RTV silicone if it's bigger) to make wax copies and using wax on the whole tho, works out cheaper for bulk and less bothersome xD
Hey, can you please tell me your temperature regime? I'm trying to pour high wax, but I have ash pores in my product. please tell me
You could also get rid of the bubbles by putting the resin in your vacuum chamber; bubbles tend to cling more to jewelry resin more, I’d imagine, since it is less dense and has these micro crevices.
That's a good idea. I'll have to give that a try.
Nice video. I use a mixture of vegetable glycerin/water 75/25 to cure my models. It seems to really help minimize surface defects in the casting. I've been using B9 emerald resin for years. I may have to give this a try.
Thanks! I'll have to give that a try for curing my prints.
Can you share your slicer settings?
Nice results , this Wax look like green carwing wax ?) if you need some Floral type of 3dmodels or classic solitaires for 3dprint tests I can provide own designs for you 😉
i need some guidance about casting the casteable rings do you use insta?
The water is for keeping the wax cooler….and for refracting the uv more evenly.
Essas marcas de camada esta muito errado, e essa ainda não é a resina ideal, ela deixa a peça áspera, ela machuca as paredes na hora da queima, a cera deixa liso.
That looks a nice and simple to use resin.
And you could even see the layer lines in the ring!
Water cure helps the light refract more evenly
Ohh! That makes a lot of sense. Thanks for the clarification! 😃
New video ) very nice explain
Thank you, Parviz! Glad you enjoyed it 😁