you prolly dont care at all but does anyone know of a tool to log back into an instagram account?? I was dumb forgot the password. I would love any help you can offer me!
@Dash Hassan I really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and I'm trying it out now. Seems to take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
Not sure. I can barely hear it but I had AC/DC (Back in Black album) playing in the background at one point, and nothing else so it must be one of those songs. The Tamiya plastic bodies are, I believe, ABS plastic, not styrene. The two are similar but different. That's why I prefer to use the Bondene, which is meant for mating different plastics. Tenax 7R is for styrene but works well on the bodies. Toy bodies could be different plastics but usually are ABS.
Great video and very helpful. I am going to be starting a project that will require a large long gap to be filled. I was going to use a compound or bondo, but I think your way is much better. Thank you for sharing.
I get all mine at local hobby stores. Some are better at stocking them than others. The Plastruct Bondene seems to be the easiest to get. I just discovered one hobby store (the best of the bunch) actually carries the Ambroid. Check a few local hobby stores if you have them. If they don't, check if they can order it.
Thanks! To do a How-to or video I'd have to build another one, lol. That wont happen anytime soon. I have too many to finish. I have another 90's ford extended cab (very detailed) I need to finish, among others. Go to scale4x4rcDOTorg and search user FROADER and term SUPERCAB. I built that cab (the one in this video) and there's a build thread with tons of photos. Its the closest you'll find to what you're looking for. These bodies (the F350, 90's and 80's f150, Hilux, etc) are Tamiya bodies.
Plastruct Bondene is one I use often, and I recently started using Ambroid Pro-Weld which I consider to be superior. Tenax 7R is a third that is quite good but has recently been difficult to find. Any of these three will work but I would recommend the Ambroid first.
ohh btw ... pantablo ... you know what i would like to see .. how you cut the tamiya bodies .. lets say the front and fenders. dont know if you use the dremel and if you do which part you use to cut or if you use something else. thank you amigo
@5kcsqt -I don't think so. What I've done, and seen others do, is use a thin layer of Shoe Goo to adhere a piece of styrene to the lexan on underside. Then you can glue styrene drop bed to that styrene using conventional methods. Too much Shoe Goo though and lexan will react, losing its shape a bit. This also eliminates the typical method of painting lexan on the inside. I added tons of detail to my lexan Range Rover Classic (the white one) in this way.
@bayareaaxialcrawler -Sorry, nope. I have pictures of the drop bed I made for a current build I have going on, the Blackfoot V2, but thats it. Those are on Scale4x4rcDOTorg.
o k, so that stuff is like glue but melts it together right? can u used tat stuff to put two pieces together like a camper (idk if tats right) onto a pick up truck?
I'm not familiar with that solvent but it sounds like it wasn't the proper stuff. You can mail order the Plastruct or Tenax 7R, either of which work well. There's also a third called, Ambroid Proweld which is probably the best of the three.
You need a solvent called Methyl Ethyl Keytone (MEK). But beware I don’t think many rc hobbyists know the Dangers of MEK. It is super flammable, and pretty much will melt any plastic of plastic glove, Which is good when you want to melt the styrene yo melt together and form a strong bond.
Plastruct Plastic Weld contained trichloromethane in the past (Plastruct Bondene contained dichloromethane), but I believe they changed the recipes for both in the meantime. You can use trichlormethane (aka chloroform) directly which is a potent solvent for plastics like ABS, PS, and PMMA. Cheaper in larger bottles than the stuff sold by the modelling companies. You just have to assure a good ventilation at your workplace. Chloroform is hazardous, as most solvents are ... and always act responsibly.
Got a question that may help others. Say you wanted to do a drop bed on a lexan pickup. would styrene sheeting bond to it about the same as lexan sheeting?
No reason why not. Just be careful with the thinner material when pressing the filler in. I assume you're not talking about a clear lexan shell though...might be now that I think about it. if so, no, you can't do this. The lexan is too flexible adn the solvent is not meant for that type of plastic.
Just mix the styrene strips and with some cement on a tin foil. When it dissolves / gets soft, use a toothpick to use it as filler.
you prolly dont care at all but does anyone know of a tool to log back into an instagram account??
I was dumb forgot the password. I would love any help you can offer me!
@Brixton Moses instablaster ;)
@Dash Hassan I really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and I'm trying it out now.
Seems to take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Dash Hassan It worked and I finally got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thanks so much you saved my ass !
@Brixton Moses glad I could help xD
Awesome work! Whoever is getting that body is one lucky SOB!! :)
always showing us all the good things about RC !! thanks again pantablo .. gracias amigo . LorenzoZ
Thanks. Trimming the fenders to fit large tires (per your comment on other video) is with dremel using a sanding drum attachment.
Not sure. I can barely hear it but I had AC/DC (Back in Black album) playing in the background at one point, and nothing else so it must be one of those songs.
The Tamiya plastic bodies are, I believe, ABS plastic, not styrene. The two are similar but different. That's why I prefer to use the Bondene, which is meant for mating different plastics. Tenax 7R is for styrene but works well on the bodies. Toy bodies could be different plastics but usually are ABS.
Great video and very helpful. I am going to be starting a project that will require a large long gap to be filled. I was going to use a compound or bondo, but I think your way is much better. Thank you for sharing.
I get all mine at local hobby stores. Some are better at stocking them than others. The Plastruct Bondene seems to be the easiest to get. I just discovered one hobby store (the best of the bunch) actually carries the Ambroid. Check a few local hobby stores if you have them. If they don't, check if they can order it.
Thanks!
To do a How-to or video I'd have to build another one, lol. That wont happen anytime soon. I have too many to finish. I have another 90's ford extended cab (very detailed) I need to finish, among others. Go to scale4x4rcDOTorg and search user FROADER and term SUPERCAB. I built that cab (the one in this video) and there's a build thread with tons of photos. Its the closest you'll find to what you're looking for. These bodies (the F350, 90's and 80's f150, Hilux, etc) are Tamiya bodies.
Plastruct Bondene is one I use often, and I recently started using Ambroid Pro-Weld which I consider to be superior.
Tenax 7R is a third that is quite good but has recently been difficult to find. Any of these three will work but I would recommend the Ambroid first.
ohh btw ... pantablo ... you know what i would like to see .. how you cut the tamiya bodies .. lets say the front and fenders.
dont know if you use the dremel and if you do which part you use to cut or if you use something else. thank you amigo
@Bracerjack -Here I use Plastruct Bondene. You can also use Tenax 7R and Ambroid ProWeld (my current favorite).
The orange yota has TLT axles.
Knowledge is: Watching your tutourials eating dinner at the computer desk. Haha.
@5kcsqt -I don't think so. What I've done, and seen others do, is use a thin layer of Shoe Goo to adhere a piece of styrene to the lexan on underside. Then you can glue styrene drop bed to that styrene using conventional methods. Too much Shoe Goo though and lexan will react, losing its shape a bit. This also eliminates the typical method of painting lexan on the inside. I added tons of detail to my lexan Range Rover Classic (the white one) in this way.
You sir, must dabble in black magic lol.
Where can I get these types of glues such as "ambroid pro weld. Thanks for your reply!
Pat
You are very welcome. Hope this helps.
I use 5 minute epoxy and tape off the underside. less work and less chance of damaging the body with a blade . leave it for 5 minutes and job done
@bayareaaxialcrawler -Sorry, nope. I have pictures of the drop bed I made for a current build I have going on, the Blackfoot V2, but thats it. Those are on Scale4x4rcDOTorg.
5:35 the song wat is it? l0l nice this will really help me in te future, so styrene is the pastic the hard bodies are made of right?
Great video man very good info
Can I know the size of the cabin and the tub I really want to make ??i'm from indonesian
o k,
so that stuff is like glue but melts it together right? can u used tat stuff to put two pieces together like a camper (idk if tats right) onto a pick up truck?
Awesome. Glad this helped!
I'm not familiar with that solvent but it sounds like it wasn't the proper stuff. You can mail order the Plastruct or Tenax 7R, either of which work well. There's also a third called, Ambroid Proweld which is probably the best of the three.
You need a solvent called Methyl Ethyl Keytone (MEK). But beware I don’t think many rc hobbyists know the Dangers of MEK. It is super flammable, and pretty much will melt any plastic of plastic glove, Which is good when you want to melt the styrene yo melt together and form a strong bond.
Plastruct Plastic Weld contained trichloromethane in the past (Plastruct Bondene contained dichloromethane), but I believe they changed the recipes for both in the meantime. You can use trichlormethane (aka chloroform) directly which is a potent solvent for plastics like ABS, PS, and PMMA. Cheaper in larger bottles than the stuff sold by the modelling companies. You just have to assure a good ventilation at your workplace. Chloroform is hazardous, as most solvents are ... and always act responsibly.
That's probably a great solution too.
Is that the tamiya f350 body that has been extended, or what body is this
Can you tell me what is the best glue to bond 2 pieces of styrene together? Thanks very much. Pat
Got a question that may help others. Say you wanted to do a drop bed on a lexan pickup. would styrene sheeting bond to it about the same as lexan sheeting?
epoxy works wonders for jobs like this.
Can I use clear styrene or is the white different?
very appreciated!
can i use this on my 0.40 body
No reason why not. Just be careful with the thinner material when pressing the filler in.
I assume you're not talking about a clear lexan shell though...might be now that I think about it. if so, no, you can't do this. The lexan is too flexible adn the solvent is not meant for that type of plastic.
@FROADER -lol...he'd better beat on this thing!
Oh and remind me not to wear black jeans and black sweater when sanding...d'oh!
Craziness.
lol...that must explain all the white dust...
man do i need to buy a new engine
lol, it gets worse...I made that supercab body...
so time consuming... just ground the pla and mix it with the glue to create a putty filler
LMAO.