I have a similar door in a similar metal building, and I'm planning on insulating it. I'm definitely doing this, but another idea I had that I think I'm going to do is to get some recycled vinyl (like billboard vinyl, which is cheap) and sew velcro onto it. Then I'll put adhesive backed velcro on the door frame and stick the vinyl on. I don't open the door very often, so I'm OK with the hassle of undoing the velcro when I need to use it. But that's the cheapest way I can think of to air (and bug) seal the door.
I did my whole metal garage with the same stuff, 30x24 with a 15' peak. Plus I added the 1/2" green foam board on the ceiling. Still have to do the roll up doors. The BIG problem is the 2" or more gap at the header, top of the door. I saw one guy attach used carpet up there to seal the gap. That may be better & way cheaper than brushes. I like how you shoved the bubble wrap in the tracks!!!
@@everydayamerican2037 I just added the Jacor brushes to both of my doors and they are incredible!!! Big difference in my metal building. It also does a great job keeping the wasp and dirt dobbers out.
@@jerrybrayman7526 it’s held up well so far ; it’s been up for about a year now. It has slowed how fast the door use to open . But no issues. I also put up rod and a curtain to pull in front of the door for winter
you did it the smart way going up and down....lol way more mangeabale.....i did sideways lol pain in the ass having to work from the center. I used super77 adhesive spray
Oh man thanks for the video. I’m in the process of insulating my steel building. How did you get the walls up? Is that plywood? Did you sister wood studs into the metal or just screw directly into the metal studs?? Thanks!
Check my channel o have a video of how I hung the plywood. I used hat channel/furring channel to hang the plywood. Also stay gunned I have an update on the door insulation video set to go up in the next couple days after I’m done existing and uploading it.
Looking good. If it was mine I would put some kind of vent in the building. When it starts to warm up out side it will stay cool on the in side and everything will sweat if you don't keep the heat on all the time. Are you still working in the shop or are you back in the field.
I have a window in the gable that I open in summer. Vents pretty well. We’ll see how it does how that it’s insulated. I run the shop so I’m there most of the time. I usually only go out on the jobs to fix stuff, haul stuff, and check up on Maintinance re rods.
How did you stop the air from coming in through the top of the doors? I had a seal on the outside but didn’t work so well . Now I’m thinking about putting a brush seal on upper header from outside.. what do you recommend? Thank you
I had planned to but I didn’t want to let all the heat out because it was about 10 degrees when I shot this. It did roll up really well though. I checked out your channel and looks cool. Check out my video on spray foam I used in my building. You may like it.
Yes I would say so. The roll up is much easier to open and close. The building itself I don’t see much difference in quality overall. The price was about half of a pole building at the time I built. I only wish I had gone a bit bigger.
It’s the 36” man door /service door and a 10’x10’ roll up door. I must say for the price I’m very happy. I will say you get what you pay for and there are some minor flaws in craftsmanship but most of those got covered up when I insulated and sheeted the walls. Make sure you are here and inspect before they leave and document any repairs that need to be done.
Not sure if it’s steel or aluminum but it’s all metal and pretty well made. I think it is an RV style door but seems sturdy to me. I should do a video on the building I guess.
@@everydayamerican2037 that would actually be really cool! Thank you very much for the replies! If you end up doing a video on the building, let me know!
I ended up taking it off in spring. The glue never held right because it was so cold when I put it on. I’m planning to redo it this fall but before temps get too cold.
@@everydayamerican2037 I’m doing this to a 12x12 door. I used a thin double sided tape from Amazon. Seams to be holding well so far. I am in Texas so trying to keep my shop cool instead of warm. I just hope it holds up to the door rolling up and down.
My plan is to use silicone adhesive to hold it on when I re do the insulation. I would like it for hear as well. The us really cooks that steel door in summer up here in Illinois too.
Not well. I think it was too cold when I applied the glue so I ended up removing it. I’m planning to redo it this fall with a better adhesive before the door is cold.
IT held up well but the glue didn't stick completely since it was so cold when i applied it. I took down the insulation when the weather warmed up and will put it back up this fall but before its so cold. Ill make a part 2/ updated video then.
Great idea American; great DIY video as well as the follow up. Doing mine today, thanks again.
Hay for the gap on sides. Get a brush seal kit for outside .
I have a similar door in a similar metal building, and I'm planning on insulating it. I'm definitely doing this, but another idea I had that I think I'm going to do is to get some recycled vinyl (like billboard vinyl, which is cheap) and sew velcro onto it. Then I'll put adhesive backed velcro on the door frame and stick the vinyl on.
I don't open the door very often, so I'm OK with the hassle of undoing the velcro when I need to use it. But that's the cheapest way I can think of to air (and bug) seal the door.
Good idea
easy garage door, easy installations. I'm jealious.
I did my whole metal garage with the same stuff, 30x24 with a 15' peak. Plus I added the 1/2" green foam board on the ceiling. Still have to do the roll up doors. The BIG problem is the 2" or more gap at the header, top of the door. I saw one guy attach used carpet up there to seal the gap. That may be better & way cheaper than brushes. I like how you shoved the bubble wrap in the tracks!!!
Thanks. I’m looking into adding the brushes at the top for the gap.
They sell a rubber top seal on ebay n Amazon. I screwed it to the door it rolls up in the door so far its been fine
Jacor Brush seals are great!
My uncle seals the top using that vinyl trim that goes in commercial restrooms. It's at home Depot and is about 3 feet long and works good.
@@everydayamerican2037 I just added the Jacor brushes to both of my doors and they are incredible!!! Big difference in my metal building. It also does a great job keeping the wasp and dirt dobbers out.
I`ve got to do that too, my problem is the opposite, I live in florida and the heat radiates about 2 ft from the surface. Really works the AC hard.
It helps for that too. This door and walls were so hot before insulation it made The shop like a toaster oven.
Nice job. I used silicone on mine ,it’s held up good. Thanks for sharing.
did you silicone the whole door? Or just to stick insulation to the door?
@@everydayamerican2037 I used it to hold the insulation to the door. I just ran beads of silicone the length of the door
In hindsight that would have worked better Than the glue. Good idea.
Kevin how is your insulation holding up and does the door operate as normal. Any videos? Thanks!
@@jerrybrayman7526 it’s held up well so far ; it’s been up for about a year now. It has slowed how fast the door use to open . But no issues. I also put up rod and a curtain to pull in front of the door for winter
you did it the smart way going up and down....lol way more mangeabale.....i did sideways lol pain in the ass having to work from the center. I used super77 adhesive spray
Oh man thanks for the video. I’m in the process of insulating my steel building. How did you get the walls up? Is that plywood? Did you sister wood studs into the metal or just screw directly into the metal studs?? Thanks!
Check my channel o have a video of how I hung the plywood. I used hat channel/furring channel to hang the plywood.
Also stay gunned I have an update on the door insulation video set to go up in the next couple days after I’m done existing and uploading it.
Looking good. If it was mine I would put some kind of vent in the building. When it starts to warm up out side it will stay cool on the in side and everything will sweat if you don't keep the heat on all the time. Are you still working in the shop or are you back in the field.
I have a window in the gable that I open in summer. Vents pretty well. We’ll see how it does how that it’s insulated. I run the shop so I’m there most of the time. I usually only go out on the jobs to fix stuff, haul stuff, and check up on Maintinance re rods.
How did you stop the air from coming in through the top of the doors? I had a seal on the outside but didn’t work so well . Now I’m thinking about putting a brush seal on upper header from outside.. what do you recommend? Thank you
I didn’t really. The gap was fairly small and it lucky didn’t leaf too badly. I’m also thinking about a brush seal for this coming winter.
Good info, i wish you would have operated the door with it on there to show it.
A part 2 is coming.
Those magnets are awesome. Do you have any issue with the Reflectix crushing?
No. The door doesn’t roll up too tight so i haven’t had any problem with that.
Was hoping to see it roll up
I had planned to but I didn’t want to let all the heat out because it was about 10 degrees when I shot this. It did roll up really well though. I checked out your channel and looks cool. Check out my video on spray foam I used in my building. You may like it.
Awesome job! That's a Nice. Shop. Does the Mack fit in there?
Yep it fits. It’s a little tight but it fits.
How well does ot keep the heat out? The sun bakes my door, it get really hot.
I’m not sure. I took it down at the end of winter but I imagine the foil part of the insulation would reflect the heat and sun well.
Hey guys, I have a friend who wants to know if you can paint the material-- black, for his shop???
Did the door still roll up and down with the material installed?
Yes it did. There is a fair amount of slop in the door track so the insulation actually quieted it down and filled some air gap.
On the balance, are you still happy going this route instead of a pole barn with sectional doors?
Yes I would say so. The roll up is much easier to open and close. The building itself I don’t see much difference in quality overall. The price was about half of a pole building at the time I built. I only wish I had gone a bit bigger.
I’m looking at a garage from the same company. Is that the standard man door? If so, how do you like it?
It’s the 36” man door /service door and a 10’x10’ roll up door. I must say for the price I’m very happy. I will say you get what you pay for and there are some minor flaws in craftsmanship but most of those got covered up when I insulated and sheeted the walls.
Make sure you are here and inspect before they leave and document any repairs that need to be done.
@@everydayamerican2037 how’s the 36” man door? I looked at one and it appeared to be from a trailer, Made of aluminum?
Not sure if it’s steel or aluminum but it’s all metal and pretty well made. I think it is an RV style door but seems sturdy to me. I should do a video on the building I guess.
@@everydayamerican2037 that would actually be really cool! Thank you very much for the replies! If you end up doing a video on the building, let me know!
I’ll be doing one soon. Just watch the channel and it will be out.
How is it holding up to the door operating? I want to do this to my doors. Just afraid it won’t hold up to the doors operating.
I ended up taking it off in spring. The glue never held right because it was so cold when I put it on. I’m planning to redo it this fall but before temps get too cold.
@@everydayamerican2037 I’m doing this to a 12x12 door. I used a thin double sided tape from Amazon. Seams to be holding well so far. I am in Texas so trying to keep my shop cool instead of warm. I just hope it holds up to the door rolling up and down.
My plan is to use silicone adhesive to hold it on when I re do the insulation. I would like it for hear as well. The us really cooks that steel door in summer up here in Illinois too.
@@mikedebaun5841 I have a 12x10 roll up and interested to know how your insulation is holding up. Any help would be much appreciated.
Check my channel I did an update video.
So how did it do when u rolled it up an down?
It did well and still worked. The glue eventually let loose though and I took it down in summer. I’m planning to reinstall with better glue.
How has this held up over time?
Not well. I think it was too cold when I applied the glue so I ended up removing it. I’m planning to redo it this fall with a better adhesive before the door is cold.
That's what they come with from the factory and they add another $1000/door for that supid stuff that hardly cost anything.
I'm curious how one would install sectional doors on a building like this. My local quote was $2k per 10x10 door.
The tracks mount to the door jambs, just like the guides on a roll up door mount to the door jambs.@@confidentlocal8600
U need a roll on adhesive my brother heat resistant
What's with all the Murrrka??
🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸?
Hows it holding up?
IT held up well but the glue didn't stick completely since it was so cold when i applied it. I took down the insulation when the weather warmed up and will put it back up this fall but before its so cold. Ill make a part 2/ updated video then.
@@everydayamerican2037 awesome buddy thank you
Can I do this on my garage full of German cars 😆
Haha proceed at your own risk but it should work 😉
Junk. No way that lasts