I shop from replace base all the time and I had no clue they sell screens with no touch ic 😅 are you able to send a link to the product because I still can’t find it thanks
Hello - nice video. I’m going to attempt this repair. A couple of questions please - what temperature and flow are you using for removing the glue and recalling the IC please? Also how do I prevent lifted pads when removing the IC from the old flex please?
If you're unsure of temperature and flow I recommend practising on broken displays first. To avoid pulling pads, this is the same principle as above. You must practise.
so the blue tool (screen programmer) will transfer over the true tone information but iPhones 11 and above will display a "non-genuine part warning" transferring that chip will transfer true tone as well as prevent the warning. Thanks for watching the video, I appreciate you!
cool video thanks, I'm just Joe blog replacing the screen on my own phone and have used aftermarket which has worked perfectly apart from the non gen message and non of the videos mentioned this chip until after I'd finished and searched getting rid of message lol and found this, I'm not about to take it apart again just to get shut of the message but will keep the old screen with the IC so that should this new non gen get busted again I will definitely try your tutorial next time. Thanks again for the post.
Thanks for the tutorials you make, I have a question. It is this the only one method to avoid the message ? Or it happens only if you apply a replacement screen ? If I replace the screen with an Apple Original the message will happen the same if I don’t replace the chip from the video ?
I tried replacing the IC CHIP on display. From the original, he loaded the data into the programmer. Then he put the original IC chip into the non-original one, uploaded the data back and the display still shows "Non-Genuine Part". The display, including touch, works perfectly. I tried flash and that didn't help either. Don't know where the problem could be?
Simply not worth all the time and hassle, in fact most US customers won't pay for all that labor, and live with it just fine. If you explain to them that they can go to an Apple store, buy and identical iPhone 11 and swap the screens around, it will show the same warning message. Besides there's a new QianlI serial programmer (Apollo) that does the job without all that soldering. But hey, to each their own.
Thank you again for watching the video, Bill. We all have our target market and some don't want the important display message. As for the Qianli serial programmer you talk about, this is misinformation. IT will copy over serial info allowing True Tone to be transferred to a new compatible screen, however, it will still display the "important display" notification in settings.
Nice Video, short and to the point. You can purchase replacement LCDs with a pre-balled flex. Presumably this will allow me to skip the step where you reball the IC iteself? Have you tried these LCDs?
@@markaffleck4622 Unfortunately no. I attempted transferring the IC without success. The problem I had was that the IC would not stay in position, even with lowest airflow. It's so tricky for me! Practice may help but it feels like I should be doing something different
@@jongarrett933 Thanks for the reply. I managed to successfully do this procedure for the first time, but it took me five attempts! I always had no touch in each case. I have tried both type of screen (the 'pre-balled' flex one and the one used in this video) and have come to the conclusion that you do still need to re-ball the IC regardless. I used the lowest airflow and just approached the IC slowly and then watched for the slight movement as the chip 'sucked' into place. I think it is just practice, don't give up! I'm no expert of course, but have found a method that works for me.
I'm guessing those pre balled displays are only meant to be soldered on with a pre heater like in the video. I also did it with a pre heater and worked wonders!
Thank you for mentioning what tools you used as i need these tools ! Wish you linked your tool kits cheers!
Nice work sir, you made it look easy! Definitely going to give this a go now I've started refurbishing!
let me know how you get on bro 👊
@@iDoctorUK how long do you heat the original ic when removing from lcd and at what temperature? Just subscribed to your channel
Awesome work as per usual!
Please could we have a workshop and tool tour when ever you get chance
YES! this really needs to get done, I have lots of cool stuff to show you. thanks for your support!
I shop from replace base all the time and I had no clue they sell screens with no touch ic 😅 are you able to send a link to the product because I still can’t find it thanks
Hello - nice video. I’m going to attempt this repair. A couple of questions please - what temperature and flow are you using for removing the glue and recalling the IC please? Also how do I prevent lifted pads when removing the IC from the old flex please?
If you're unsure of temperature and flow I recommend practising on broken displays first.
To avoid pulling pads, this is the same principle as above. You must practise.
Do you have to apply new solder for a clean connection? What about just removing the ic and then transfer right away to the screen?
Yes, new solder for an even and clean connection. If you transferred the ic direct there is a risk that some pads may not connect
What was the holder called you used for holding the chip? And is this the same one a year later you would still recommend .. thanks
What happens if you just put the soldier paste on without the mould? Would it be fine?
What’s the difference between using the blue tool to take info and write it into the new screen ?
so the blue tool (screen programmer) will transfer over the true tone information but iPhones 11 and above will display a "non-genuine part warning" transferring that chip will transfer true tone as well as prevent the warning.
Thanks for watching the video, I appreciate you!
@@iDoctorUK thank you for the video and info
cool video thanks, I'm just Joe blog replacing the screen on my own phone and have used aftermarket which has worked perfectly apart from the non gen message and non of the videos mentioned this chip until after I'd finished and searched getting rid of message lol and found this, I'm not about to take it apart again just to get shut of the message but will keep the old screen with the IC so that should this new non gen get busted again I will definitely try your tutorial next time. Thanks again for the post.
I like the tiktok videos but I like watching extended repair videos on YT better.
I'm glad you like them. keep an eye out because we're planning on posting lots more!
Is there anybody in the US that does this service?
Thanks for the tutorials you make, I have a question.
It is this the only one method to avoid the message ? Or it happens only if you apply a replacement screen ?
If I replace the screen with an Apple Original the message will happen the same if I don’t replace the chip from the video ?
Sadly apple have encrypted this part and currently for this model this is the only way outside of apples repair network
Your process is awesome, please contact me if you need mobile phone repair tools.
So I can save some cash and go aftermarket front screen or is it still better to go oem refurbished
yes! aftermarket versions of the IC-less screens are available. I haven't used these myself though. let me know if you use one though, I'm curious.
Question: any iPhone 11 lcd will fit any model like (20A362) or has to be specific lcd?
Does the warning effect functionality in anyway? Just swapping the tru tone over. Surely Apple don’t do this when they do the repair? Tia
Hi what tools I need for this repair
Will the face id work?
Hi, I like your videos😃👍, what tools need to repair the Ic chip ?
what Y tip screwdriver do you recomend? I mean the brand? thank 🙏
I tried replacing the IC CHIP on display. From the original, he loaded the data into the programmer. Then he put the original IC chip into the non-original one, uploaded the data back and the display still shows "Non-Genuine Part". The display, including touch, works perfectly. I tried flash and that didn't help either. Don't know where the problem could be?
Check your solder joints and chip orientation
Does this also stop FACE ID being disabled when an aftermarket screen is installed?
Face ID should not fault when an aftermarket screen is used
Simply not worth all the time and hassle, in fact most US customers won't pay for all that labor, and live with it just fine. If you explain to them that they can go to an Apple store, buy and identical iPhone 11 and swap the screens around, it will show the same warning message. Besides there's a new QianlI serial programmer (Apollo) that does the job without all that soldering. But hey, to each their own.
Thank you again for watching the video, Bill. We all have our target market and some don't want the important display message.
As for the Qianli serial programmer you talk about, this is misinformation. IT will copy over serial info allowing True Tone to be transferred to a new compatible screen, however, it will still display the "important display" notification in settings.
@@iDoctorUK - Not sure why it's displaying it for you, when I use high quality Incell screen, it doesn't display it.
Callux from Wish
lol I had to google this, very faint resemblance
Nice Video, short and to the point. You can purchase replacement LCDs with a pre-balled flex. Presumably this will allow me to skip the step where you reball the IC iteself? Have you tried these LCDs?
Hi Jon, did you find out the score on this, as I have the same question!
@@markaffleck4622 Unfortunately no. I attempted transferring the IC without success. The problem I had was that the IC would not stay in position, even with lowest airflow. It's so tricky for me! Practice may help but it feels like I should be doing something different
@@jongarrett933 Thanks for the reply. I managed to successfully do this procedure for the first time, but it took me five attempts! I always had no touch in each case. I have tried both type of screen (the 'pre-balled' flex one and the one used in this video) and have come to the conclusion that you do still need to re-ball the IC regardless. I used the lowest airflow and just approached the IC slowly and then watched for the slight movement as the chip 'sucked' into place. I think it is just practice, don't give up! I'm no expert of course, but have found a method that works for me.
I'm guessing those pre balled displays are only meant to be soldered on with a pre heater like in the video.
I also did it with a pre heater and worked wonders!