Ron, I just sharpened a factory edge slick trick and compared the new edge to the factory edge, and the new edge outperformed the factory edge by a mile, and I haven't even stropped it yet.
@innovativeoutdoorsman5067 sure is! I have another sharpening question: Do you have to remove a burr before progressing to the next grit (e.g. I have a burr at 400 grit, do I have to remove that burr before progressing to 800 grit), or is that something I don't have to do? It's something I always do, I just don't know if it's necessary or not.
Ron....pretty impressive job. My question is are you actually "counting" the number of times for each side to make them even shaped besides identifying the burrs on each side?? Also, after achieving a 65 sharpening edge rating and when fully assembled back for usage, are these broad heads still weighing the same OR in your opinion find a cut off number of sharpening before you trash the blades??? Thanks TM
yes that comes from pushing too hard. Lessen the downward pressure. You can also place a small piece of painters tape on both side of the blade to increase friction.
In actual time you are looking at 30 minutes per half blade, so 2 hours for one slick trick? Granted, super sharp, but dang. With myself and my two sons shooting them, I'd have to also have a job watching paint dry to have the patience for this.
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Ron, I just sharpened a factory edge slick trick and compared the new edge to the factory edge, and the new edge outperformed the factory edge by a mile, and I haven't even stropped it yet.
Its a good feeling, isnt it?
@innovativeoutdoorsman5067 sure is! I have another sharpening question: Do you have to remove a burr before progressing to the next grit (e.g. I have a burr at 400 grit, do I have to remove that burr before progressing to 800 grit), or is that something I don't have to do? It's something I always do, I just don't know if it's necessary or not.
65 is impressive. Well done.
Can you put a link for the sharpness teater? Btw I have 2 single bevel staysharp guides and they work great.
For new Slick trick blades would you strop them first or shoot them straight out of the package?
Will this guide also work for Wac'em 3 blades?
whats the difference between the black and grey jig?
Ron....pretty impressive job. My question is are you actually "counting" the number of times for each side to make them even shaped besides identifying the burrs on each side?? Also, after achieving a 65 sharpening edge rating and when fully assembled back for usage, are these broad heads still weighing the same OR in your opinion find a cut off number of sharpening before you trash the blades??? Thanks TM
I dont stroke count. The burr is my guide.
Hi, where to buy the sharpener equipment? Thanks
gran trabajo
65 !!
good job !
Where can we buy these?
What’s the new sharpener you’re coming out with this summer? Is it specific to a certain broadhead?
We are working on a new sharpening guide for Tooth of the arrow heads.
@@innovativeoutdoorsman5067 awesome! I was hoping that was it. Thanks!
I have all ur guides an I cant keep the blades from becoming l loosening an moveing....maybe pressing to hard
yes that comes from pushing too hard. Lessen the downward pressure. You can also place a small piece of painters tape on both side of the blade to increase friction.
Is that like killing 2 burrs with one stone? 😁
In actual time you are looking at 30 minutes per half blade, so 2 hours for one slick trick? Granted, super sharp, but dang. With myself and my two sons shooting them, I'd have to also have a job watching paint dry to have the patience for this.
where can I purchase this 🤔
staysharpguide.com