Let me tell you these aftermarket iacv are not made Oem specific ! Most of them lets the car idle a little higher or a little lower than what it should be. 8 out of the 10 aftermarket brands does not work like the Oem part. And all of them stops working for about 1 year of use.
Helpful video, thank you! I would also spray clean MAF sensor and Throttle Body, be sure disconnect the battery. NOTE! there are 2 separate spray cleaners: for the MAF and for Throttle, do not mix... ✌
So did it fix the problem I've got 2001 v6 escape in Australia we've just swapped over engine & it goes great over say 1500rpm but when you drop it down to idle it stops. So hopefully this quick fix will fix the issue
In the US there are multiple fuel injector cleaners, by far the best I used is Royal Purple brand, I would try that too as long as spark plugs change and air filter, lastly disconnect the battery to reset ECM usually 20 minutes or so, then reconnect and idle run for 15, when start drive within next 100 miles just accelerate gently, no high RPM, I'm sure it will help... Best ✌️
Vacuum Solenoid is also a very common problem part. It is the round black part with 6 ridges. Its located to the right of the green air hose connecter you see in this video. it takes 2 screws, but be careful. The seal will fall into the engine compartment as soon as you take out the last screw holding it in. Also, check for dry rotted or split air lines. The part mentioned in the video, and what I mention fixes 80% of these engines that i have come across.
I have replaced the Mass airflow sensor, the IAC, EGR valve, My escape threw P1504 ans would die every time I came to an idle. I can't find a vacuum leak anywhere. Should I move on to the Vacuum Solenoid? It started doing it again when AC is on. The code never went off.
Ultimately between replacing this and the EGR valve, we had the car engine back at 90% reliable operation. Still had stall problems whenever the car would come off of highway cruising speed to a dead stop. Likewise was never able to pin down the exact cause a vacuum leak or other culprit.
When I replaced my EGR valve and vacuum solenoid, I needed to replace the vacuum line harness. Ford lists this as a part but I couldn't find one by Ford or any aftermarket company. I removed the harness from the car, removed the plastic cover, and set it on the workbench on top of a lot of paper towels (the hose disintegrates into dust when you touch it) and then I slowly replaced each section of vacuum hose (all the same diameter), making sure that I kept the angles and attitudes just the way they were originally. Once I finished, I replaced the plastic cover and maneuvered it back into place. (BE SURE TO MEMORIZE HOW IT CAME OUT! THERE IS A TUNNEL.) It works perfectly now and I only spent about $8 for the vacuum hose at the local auto parts store, and I still have some left over.
I have a 2005 Ford Escape and only notice after sitting idle, about every 30-60 seconds the RPM's drop out a bit and then it comes back. Does this sound like IAC or MAF?
Try also CRC MAF sensor spray cleaner and CRC Throttle Body spray cleaner, both cleaners are different, do not mix. Would also change the air filter. I did all the above on my 06 Escape 3.0, it runs / idles like a new... Hope this helps ✌️
So what I understand is that you had a rough idle coming to a stop from a high speed.My escape does exactly that.Normal idle is ok.Something could be smoother. It’s really rough stopping after high speed.Did the iac valve fix your problem? Thank
Ok. Cause I put new one in. Sounded weird. Than I checked there was only one thing I could find. Turn key to on hold break and gas in for five seconds. Release turn off for ten seconds. Then start. And it sounded better
Let me tell you these aftermarket iacv are not made Oem specific !
Most of them lets the car idle a little higher or a little lower than what it should be.
8 out of the 10 aftermarket brands does not work like the Oem part.
And all of them stops working for about 1 year of use.
Helpful video, thank you! I would also spray clean MAF sensor and Throttle Body, be sure disconnect the battery. NOTE! there are 2 separate spray cleaners: for the MAF and for Throttle, do not mix... ✌
good tips!
Ok some electrical contact spray on the maf would do yes
So did it fix the problem I've got 2001 v6 escape in Australia we've just swapped over engine & it goes great over say 1500rpm but when you drop it down to idle it stops. So hopefully this quick fix will fix the issue
In the US there are multiple fuel injector cleaners, by far the best I used is Royal Purple brand, I would try that too as long as spark plugs change and air filter, lastly disconnect the battery to reset ECM usually 20 minutes or so, then reconnect and idle run for 15, when start drive within next 100 miles just accelerate gently, no high RPM, I'm sure it will help... Best ✌️
It did help, but idling never fully restored on the car while we had it. Eventually sold it to a friend.
Vacuum Solenoid is also a very common problem part. It is the round black part with 6 ridges. Its located to the right of the green air hose connecter you see in this video. it takes 2 screws, but be careful. The seal will fall into the engine compartment as soon as you take out the last screw holding it in. Also, check for dry rotted or split air lines. The part mentioned in the video, and what I mention fixes 80% of these engines that i have come across.
good tips!
I have replaced the Mass airflow sensor, the IAC, EGR valve, My escape threw P1504 ans would die every time I came to an idle. I can't find a vacuum leak anywhere. Should I move on to the Vacuum Solenoid? It started doing it again when AC is on. The code never went off.
Ultimately between replacing this and the EGR valve, we had the car engine back at 90% reliable operation. Still had stall problems whenever the car would come off of highway cruising speed to a dead stop. Likewise was never able to pin down the exact cause a vacuum leak or other culprit.
When I replaced my EGR valve and vacuum solenoid, I needed to replace the vacuum line harness. Ford lists this as a part but I couldn't find one by Ford or any aftermarket company. I removed the harness from the car, removed the plastic cover, and set it on the workbench on top of a lot of paper towels (the hose disintegrates into dust when you touch it) and then I slowly replaced each section of vacuum hose (all the same diameter), making sure that I kept the angles and attitudes just the way they were originally. Once I finished, I replaced the plastic cover and maneuvered it back into place. (BE SURE TO MEMORIZE HOW IT CAME OUT! THERE IS A TUNNEL.) It works perfectly now and I only spent about $8 for the vacuum hose at the local auto parts store, and I still have some left over.
So is this the 1 you can adjust up near the firewall
Good for u! Mine revs at around 5k RPM
Nice 👍
Thank U! Very helpfull!
Glad it helped!
Thank you my friend.
Glad to help!
Tengo entendido que se calibra y no la calibrate?
I have a 2005 Ford Escape and only notice after sitting idle, about every 30-60 seconds the RPM's drop out a bit and then it comes back. Does this sound like IAC or MAF?
IAC is worth a shot, as it's relatively cheap and easy to fix!
Try also CRC MAF sensor spray cleaner and CRC Throttle Body spray cleaner, both cleaners are different, do not mix. Would also change the air filter. I did all the above on my 06 Escape 3.0, it runs / idles like a new... Hope this helps ✌️
Good ol CRC!
So what I understand is that you had a rough idle coming to a stop from a high speed.My escape does exactly that.Normal idle is ok.Something could be smoother. It’s really rough stopping after high speed.Did the iac valve fix your problem? Thank
Yes! IAC did help with curing a lot of the problem.
@@MattStephensRich ok great! Thanks for your response
you bet!
GREAT !!!
Thanks!!!
was it making a pop noise?
No pop noise, just a lot of engine lugging
My escape the IAC V is differrent side installed ,if I change new one like yours it should be installed as clip shown?
It could be you have a different engine size. IAC valves gratefully all install in similar fashion. :)
After you put the new one in do you have to adjust the intake ?
No adjustment needed - ultimately air intake is controlled by the engine CPU, which is continuously adjusting.
Ok. Cause I put new one in. Sounded weird. Than I checked there was only one thing I could find. Turn key to on hold break and gas in for five seconds. Release turn off for ten seconds. Then start. And it sounded better
glad to hear it!
Did this trip the check engine light?
Indeed it can if the issue is significant enough to indicate bad air flow or bad air fuel mixture.
So I changed the IAC, but the car turned off in park.
Another part could be the culprit - IAC is a great place to start, but indeed sometime something else is needed for the full fix.
Is that really the engine
Sure hope so.
lol what?
Very common Ford problem!
Nah Every vehicle that has a IAC. Electric throttle bodies don’t have and so this issue is non existent
2012 escape 2.5 liters 4 cylinder where is this thing!!??
It should still be in the roughly same location, recommend googling to get engine bay schematics.
Where would the IAC valve be on a 2008 for escape 2.3 4 cylinder not a hybrid
It should be in roughly the same location, recommend googling engine bay schematics to get a best lay of the land
@@MattStephensRich thanks man
Pare has b