I tried making some artwork for H R Giger styled Biomechanical art according to this video, and it looks good though I used a black pencil and a small sized window to do it in a note book I had around. I noticed the light to dark contrast is much extended compared to using a airbrush or inks which is what Giger would have used. I thank you for the tutorial and must say Giger is a genius, he made such fantastic artwork from just this style of layout, its amazing.
@ChristopherD1991 Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed it. This was done with a Wacom GD0608U tablet. I own 2 of them, one for work and one for home. After doing art this way, I won't ever go back to pen and paper medium, though I enjoy painting with acrylic/oil/canvas. To each his own, I guess.
As I just told Christopher, I think I prefer digital design. It's just faster for me and I get better results. I do appreciate those who are skilled at pen/paper and other mediums. I'm a tattooist, so I'm not completely unfamiliar with secondary and tertiary mediums.
The basics are the same in pencil, but with pencil I would just give yourself a very light framework, and begin adding your shading from light do dark. On the computer it's really simple to add highlights right over the top of your darks. In pencil however you will have to reserve those spots carefully. And your depth will depend on how rich your pencil or colored pencil is, whether you are doing a monochromatic or colored piece, and how dynamic your shading is.
Thanks for checking it out. Shading is everything. Lining can only do so much, but shading is the key to the dimension of whatever you are doing. I always think of the Kenny Wayne Shepherd song, "Blue on Black." We need contrast in our lives to make it all more shiny and interesting. Peace, Mike!
Hey, Shane! Are you still on the road? I'd love to see a 2017-version of your video. Furthermore, please add knowledge on how to draw organic structures. What's natural? What not? I'd love to draw graffiti containing skeletal or organic details. Like in "Alien". Hints highly appreciated!
Hi Nico, I haven't done a gob of new stuff for RUclips in a while, but have been streaming on Twitch (armchairartist) lately, learning the ropes over there and just taking it easy. As far as what constitutes organic/natural textures all you'd need to do is check out some real world photography taken from different perspectives and study it. For me, I believe the term "organic" to mean "related to living matter", be it anything flora, fauna, microorganisms, etc. There is enough organic and biomechanoid art floating around these days, it's easy to get an idea and learn from any of it. Just select the parts that move you, and focus on that. Both types usually have similar flows and can be mixed together, easily interchangeable. At the end of the day remember, art is subjective, it's just eye-candy. Do it however you want, just keep learning and growing, heck that's all any of us can do. Don't let the whiny trolls tell you that your art has to fit some unreasonable guidelines, not real enough, not dark enough, all that nonsense. Your art is for you, if others like it, cool, if not, no big deal, they have the remote. Peace.
Thanks, James! Glad you liked it. I took a long time off and am just high-fiving everyone that left comments when I was gone. Glad you enjoyed the video! Peace!
Hey shane thanks a lot for this tutorial. Ive been sitting here for a few hours trying to do this artwork with some different weights of pencils/shading etc. Im having a lot of trouble for some reason. Im a HUGE HR Giger fan, to the extent of him changing my life with his artwork. Its my dream to be able to even come close to the creations he can produce. Do you have any tips as far as airbrush vs pencil? I can get the framework down but then when it comes to the shading and highlights i lose it. Maybe im just thinking too much about it? But all my attempts look flat and no depth. Anyway, any advice would be appreciated. Thanks again for this. Cheers.
Hi Abe! So sorry I haven't replied sooner! I get busy sometimes with extra life stuff. I am pleased that you enjoyed this video. It was made such a long time ago, and is very basic. I know there are new techniques and brushes available now that are very detailed and powerful. Giger used many tools in his paintings and emphasized his use of repetitive forms. So much fun to absorb that stuff! I'm not well versed with pencil, but use a lot of additive properties of digital airbrush, and abuse the heck out of layers in GIMP or photoshop (Krita is fun, too.) I was trained to work sparingly dark to light when sculpting midtones and light planes. Many details will appear to as you go, almost as if they create themselves. Reserve your whites (which is really just the specularity of sunlight, or whatever the brightest light in your subject may be) for the areas that reflect the most intense light. You may never even need white in many cases, especially with biomechanoid themes set in so much darkness, like Giger style stuff. Then again, this style isn't necessarily always dark either. It can be saturated with light or chroma. I would say that if your stuff is looking flat, try to add both more dark, and more light. Be forgiving with yourself, bold, and brave. Try it all. Though it isn't completely necessary, you might try starting with a completely black background, then adding basic midtones to define your planes. Many painters do this with gesso as a primer. Then begin brightening the planes that enter and move into the light source. Also, you might find that the underside of your figures that are essentially in shadows aren't always going to be completely black. It's a matter of value. Get the value handled, then move on to color/tint. Value take precedence when you are going for depth and avoiding that “flat” look. Luminous colors can be quite vibrant and still give the illusion of shadow, especially with the addition of cool colors such as blue, purple, even some green tints, etc... Of course, it all depends on the base color of your light source. I've found the most realistic lights to consist of white that moves into the yellow spectrum. Many painters call that “working with sunshine.” Shadows tend to be a tone of blue or purple, or various combinations of that, but honestly, it depends on ambient lighting conditions. I very much look forward to seeing your work, and will look you up on RUclips! So good to visit with you. Best of luck my friend.
@@ShaneHall Thanks so much for the detailed reply on this subject. Ive been practicing a lot since and have somewhat achieved depth in my pieces. I mostly just go crazy with an airbrush and whatever i creates, creates itself as you've said. The tip you gave me with not taking up so much white to give lighting effect is a good one. I dont think i was using enough darks in the crevices of the shapes in order to contrast the light. Ill try to leave some white in the middle, so it appears like light is reflecting off of it. Thank you so much for this and i hope i can be this one some day. Cheer!!
Thank you! I appreciate that. It was just a quick one. I have another one that I posted from twitch to youtube called Sprawlcreeper. If you liked this one, you'll really enjoy that one :) Strength and Peace my friend.
lol, thx bako... very constructive :) incidentally this is a very remedial tutorial. It wasn't designed to take 3 months to complete. Just a place to start. For such a good artist, your art critique and people skills need work.
I tried making some artwork for H R Giger styled Biomechanical art according to this video, and it looks good though I used a black pencil and a small sized window to do it in a note book I had around. I noticed the light to dark contrast is much extended compared to using a airbrush or inks which is what Giger would have used. I thank you for the tutorial and must say Giger is a genius, he made such fantastic artwork from just this style of layout, its amazing.
@ChristopherD1991
Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed it. This was done with a Wacom GD0608U tablet. I own 2 of them, one for work and one for home. After doing art this way, I won't ever go back to pen and paper medium, though I enjoy painting with acrylic/oil/canvas. To each his own, I guess.
As I just told Christopher, I think I prefer digital design. It's just faster for me and I get better results. I do appreciate those who are skilled at pen/paper and other mediums. I'm a tattooist, so I'm not completely unfamiliar with secondary and tertiary mediums.
The basics are the same in pencil, but with pencil I would just give yourself a very light framework, and begin adding your shading from light do dark. On the computer it's really simple to add highlights right over the top of your darks. In pencil however you will have to reserve those spots carefully. And your depth will depend on how rich your pencil or colored pencil is, whether you are doing a monochromatic or colored piece, and how dynamic your shading is.
It’s crazzy want shading can do this is some of my favorite
Thanks for checking it out. Shading is everything. Lining can only do so much, but shading is the key to the dimension of whatever you are doing. I always think of the Kenny Wayne Shepherd song, "Blue on Black." We need contrast in our lives to make it all more shiny and interesting. Peace, Mike!
Really nice tutorial. I enjoyed it. Thanks for posting it!
Been awhile, Systemsyn! Thanks for checking it out, am glad you enjoyed it. Hope you are happy and well!
Hey, Shane! Are you still on the road? I'd love to see a 2017-version of your video. Furthermore, please add knowledge on how to draw organic structures. What's natural? What not? I'd love to draw graffiti containing skeletal or organic details. Like in "Alien". Hints highly appreciated!
Hi Nico, I haven't done a gob of new stuff for RUclips in a while, but have been streaming on Twitch (armchairartist) lately, learning the ropes over there and just taking it easy. As far as what constitutes organic/natural textures all you'd need to do is check out some real world photography taken from different perspectives and study it. For me, I believe the term "organic" to mean "related to living matter", be it anything flora, fauna, microorganisms, etc. There is enough organic and biomechanoid art floating around these days, it's easy to get an idea and learn from any of it. Just select the parts that move you, and focus on that. Both types usually have similar flows and can be mixed together, easily interchangeable. At the end of the day remember, art is subjective, it's just eye-candy. Do it however you want, just keep learning and growing, heck that's all any of us can do. Don't let the whiny trolls tell you that your art has to fit some unreasonable guidelines, not real enough, not dark enough, all that nonsense. Your art is for you, if others like it, cool, if not, no big deal, they have the remote. Peace.
WOW totally cool!!!!GREAT VIDEO MAN!!!
Thanks, James! Glad you liked it. I took a long time off and am just high-fiving everyone that left comments when I was gone. Glad you enjoyed the video! Peace!
Hey shane thanks a lot for this tutorial. Ive been sitting here for a few hours trying to do this artwork with some different weights of pencils/shading etc. Im having a lot of trouble for some reason. Im a HUGE HR Giger fan, to the extent of him changing my life with his artwork. Its my dream to be able to even come close to the creations he can produce. Do you have any tips as far as airbrush vs pencil? I can get the framework down but then when it comes to the shading and highlights i lose it. Maybe im just thinking too much about it? But all my attempts look flat and no depth. Anyway, any advice would be appreciated. Thanks again for this. Cheers.
Hi Abe!
So sorry I haven't replied sooner! I get busy sometimes with extra life stuff. I am pleased that you enjoyed this video. It was made such a long time ago, and is very basic. I know there are new techniques and brushes available now that are very detailed and powerful. Giger used many tools in his paintings and emphasized his use of repetitive forms. So much fun to absorb that stuff! I'm not well versed with pencil, but use a lot of additive properties of digital airbrush, and abuse the heck out of layers in GIMP or photoshop (Krita is fun, too.) I was trained to work sparingly dark to light when sculpting midtones and light planes. Many details will appear to as you go, almost as if they create themselves. Reserve your whites (which is really just the specularity of sunlight, or whatever the brightest light in your subject may be) for the areas that reflect the most intense light. You may never even need white in many cases, especially with biomechanoid themes set in so much darkness, like Giger style stuff. Then again, this style isn't necessarily always dark either. It can be saturated with light or chroma. I would say that if your stuff is looking flat, try to add both more dark, and more light. Be forgiving with yourself, bold, and brave. Try it all. Though it isn't completely necessary, you might try starting with a completely black background, then adding basic midtones to define your planes. Many painters do this with gesso as a primer. Then begin brightening the planes that enter and move into the light source. Also, you might find that the underside of your figures that are essentially in shadows aren't always going to be completely black. It's a matter of value. Get the value handled, then move on to color/tint. Value take precedence when you are going for depth and avoiding that “flat” look. Luminous colors can be quite vibrant and still give the illusion of shadow, especially with the addition of cool colors such as blue, purple, even some green tints, etc... Of course, it all depends on the base color of your light source. I've found the most realistic lights to consist of white that moves into the yellow spectrum. Many painters call that “working with sunshine.” Shadows tend to be a tone of blue or purple, or various combinations of that, but honestly, it depends on ambient lighting conditions. I very much look forward to seeing your work, and will look you up on RUclips! So good to visit with you. Best of luck my friend.
@@ShaneHall Thanks so much for the detailed reply on this subject. Ive been practicing a lot since and have somewhat achieved depth in my pieces. I mostly just go crazy with an airbrush and whatever i creates, creates itself as you've said. The tip you gave me with not taking up so much white to give lighting effect is a good one. I dont think i was using enough darks in the crevices of the shapes in order to contrast the light. Ill try to leave some white in the middle, so it appears like light is reflecting off of it. Thank you so much for this and i hope i can be this one some day. Cheer!!
@@AestheticAbe can't wait to see your work my friend :) Tear it up!
Nice video
Thank you! I appreciate that. It was just a quick one. I have another one that I posted from twitch to youtube called Sprawlcreeper. If you liked this one, you'll really enjoy that one :) Strength and Peace my friend.
lol, thx bako... very constructive :) incidentally this is a very remedial tutorial. It wasn't designed to take 3 months to complete. Just a place to start. For such a good artist, your art critique and people skills need work.
nice pair videos slave ,very much enjoyed :)
awsome vid man, very informative, subscribed :)
Thanks, Dragula23! Been a long time. I'm just reaching out to all my earlybird subs to say thank you! Wishing you well!
so cool!!!!!
You all still rockin?!
we think alike dude! lol i feel the same about a lot of what u said!
Its Giiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiger not guyger
Tappa Tappa yeah yeah. We’ve been over this. I’m not gonna edit the video. It’s not really about him anyway. Either way yeah he was amazing.
lol...just bugging @@ShaneHall