1:25 not only are they past their prime, they are spent. The packets that come with the spools, by the time you open them, have basically already been used up by what ever moisture that was in the air and filament when sealed at the factory.
I print exclusively in PETG for my product and almost gave up because the parts stick too much to PEI and I don't like using glue stick. Then I discovered the secret, Windex. Spray a small amount and wipe it around with a paper towel. Doesn't leave a residue on your parts either.
So far, i don’t mind the petg sticking too much, aside from the prime line cause that just breaks away when you go to pull it off after the plate has cooled down. With that said, I’m definitely going to give it a try just for some testing because the biggest pain in the ass with petg, for me anyways, is tree supports or when your print only gets a couple layers down and has to be stopped for whatever reason… I’m there half the day peeling little parts of plastic off with the snips 😂
@@TheMountainMaker I've been there. I print black parts and white parts. I had to label the sides of the plate for which color to use because tiny little pieces were stuck in the plate and would show up in the bottom of the next print (also tiny bits of the build plate embedded). When using Windex, the part still sticks more than PLA, but releases without having to bend the plates too much to get the parts loose. Let the cool a little first. I think it's the perfect blend of sticking enough that I don't have to worry about adhesion issues and cleanly removing from the plate. Now I don't worry about having the correct color side of the plate to print on. Just an FYI, it doesn't take much Windex. You can even spray it on the paper towel and just wipe it around.
Awesome! Thanks for all the tips. I'm adding it to the list of things to test out on not just these machines, but a few others I have coming into the Print Farm early next year!
I'd 100% agree with you if it was consistent between prints or even printers. It happens with all 3 of my A1 Mini's and it doesn't seem to matter which filament im using or the model(s) im printing. Sometimes it works, sometimes it just doesn't. I will go through all of them and check the screws just to be on the safe side but it was happening right out of the box on the 3rd mini I got a few weeks back, but worked great on the other 2 for the first 2 or 3 months then I started to have the off and on issues. I appreciate the suggestion! (First layer looks good btw)
There are several tiny printable tools that give you an estimate of grams remaining on a normal spool by holding it against the filament and measuring the edge of the spool
I too am having trouble ironing on the A1, mine is full size. P1S comes out great but the A1 is having a hard time. Would like to hear you talk about it more if you notice anything. Great vid as always, love following along!
Definitely going to be digging into it a little bit more now that i'm hearing it from others and i've seen it on all of my minis, not just the first one, as it initially was. Thanks for the support!
I had same issues with ironing. You need to disable fan when ironing. Add extra g code to profile. I think is this one {if extrusion_role=~/Ironing/} M106 S0 ; disable fan M106 P2 S0 ; disable additional fan {endif} Insert it to change extrusion role g code
I use a lot of PETG; anycubic is made by sunlu. As is kingroon, jayo, techbears and probably a few others. As for color matching festool green, bambu's lime green PETG HF and hatchbox's lime green PETG are virtually perfect matches. Hatchbox is a bit better with heat resistance.
Thanks for the tip about the lime green PETG! That will be helpful. I will definitely be ordering some of the Lime Green PETG-HF and I use Hatchbox for the Makita Green/Blue already so I've got those settings dialed in as well!
@@TheMountainMaker No problem! I did the same search for a perfect festool green myself. Protopasta makes a "loostef" green that's a a perfect match, but it's PLA. I prefer PETG for functional parts. Hatchbox is good stuff, just a bit more than I'm used to spending per spool, so I grab a few spools whenever they have a sale. Polymaker's dark blue is a close match to festool's dark blue they use on their tool bodies. Also, voxelab (made by flashforge) makes a dark blue carbon fiber PETG that's probably a bit closer to festool's tool body color than the polymaker; the color is "midnight blue". Happy printing!
Thanks again! Totally agree with you on the PLA vs PETG. I started printing the Sander holders out of PLA and I could separate them at the layer lines where the lip started to come up. Didn't matter which PLA I used, switched to PETG and problem solved.
I have the a1 and ironing was terrible, I got it a lot better by changing to 25% and 25mm/s, still not perfect. I was shocked because my artillery sidewinder x1 does ironing beautifully and that printer is 5 years old. Bambu needs to do more work on their profiles and updates etc. I hope they don’t become like creality or stratsys.
I'll give it a try! I think they are moving forward in the right direction! It takes a lot to startup a company and they kind of accelerated to the top faster than expected. I think 2025 will be a big year for 3D Printing across the board, especially with some of the other manufacturers coming out with Multicolor printing now.
Yo bro! Love the content I saw that you were putting in the elegoo filament in your AMS without any adapters do you recommend doing that? Or do you just not care about the dust from the cardboard
Thanks man! I appreciate it! I have, and would recommend printing the adapters to preserve the parts for as long as you can. But when it actually comes down to using them in my day to day operation, i can’t say i keep up with it. They pretty much only get used now if the spool comes damaged. Then it needs that extra help otherwise it would definitely come apart in the AMS.
They’re basically the exact same piece of software aside from some small differences in regards to the calibration features that Orca offers. Having started with other brands of printers, and also having some more coming soon that are not Bambu, i just prefer to stick with one slicer. Not that Bambu Studio wouldn’t work with other printers, but i started with Prusa Slicer, moved to Orca and just decided to stick with it.
@@TheMountainMaker Thanks for your answer! Yes, I really miss the 3D adjustment function in the editing window (bottom left wireframe) of the Bambu slicer. I use Bambu and Elegoo printers but with two separate software. I will consider your idea!
I like your channel because your just an everyday person doing your everyday stuff.
Thanks! I appreciate that!
1:25 not only are they past their prime, they are spent. The packets that come with the spools, by the time you open them, have basically already been used up by what ever moisture that was in the air and filament when sealed at the factory.
Time to print some containers and order some actual desiccant beads from amazon I guess!
Congrats keep up the hard work
Thanks!
I print exclusively in PETG for my product and almost gave up because the parts stick too much to PEI and I don't like using glue stick. Then I discovered the secret, Windex. Spray a small amount and wipe it around with a paper towel. Doesn't leave a residue on your parts either.
So far, i don’t mind the petg sticking too much, aside from the prime line cause that just breaks away when you go to pull it off after the plate has cooled down.
With that said, I’m definitely going to give it a try just for some testing because the biggest pain in the ass with petg, for me anyways, is tree supports or when your print only gets a couple layers down and has to be stopped for whatever reason… I’m there half the day peeling little parts of plastic off with the snips 😂
@@TheMountainMaker I've been there. I print black parts and white parts. I had to label the sides of the plate for which color to use because tiny little pieces were stuck in the plate and would show up in the bottom of the next print (also tiny bits of the build plate embedded). When using Windex, the part still sticks more than PLA, but releases without having to bend the plates too much to get the parts loose. Let the cool a little first. I think it's the perfect blend of sticking enough that I don't have to worry about adhesion issues and cleanly removing from the plate. Now I don't worry about having the correct color side of the plate to print on. Just an FYI, it doesn't take much Windex. You can even spray it on the paper towel and just wipe it around.
Awesome! Thanks for all the tips. I'm adding it to the list of things to test out on not just these machines, but a few others I have coming into the Print Farm early next year!
Well done bud ,you have got a bit of a different way of doing your content 👏
Thanks! I appreciate the support!
On the A1 mini, I suspect that the hot end might have some of the screws worked loose, if the first layer is also lumpy this is more likely.
I'd 100% agree with you if it was consistent between prints or even printers. It happens with all 3 of my A1 Mini's and it doesn't seem to matter which filament im using or the model(s) im printing. Sometimes it works, sometimes it just doesn't.
I will go through all of them and check the screws just to be on the safe side but it was happening right out of the box on the 3rd mini I got a few weeks back, but worked great on the other 2 for the first 2 or 3 months then I started to have the off and on issues. I appreciate the suggestion! (First layer looks good btw)
There are several tiny printable tools that give you an estimate of grams remaining on a normal spool by holding it against the filament and measuring the edge of the spool
I'll have to go check some of them out, Thanks for the tip!
I too am having trouble ironing on the A1, mine is full size. P1S comes out great but the A1 is having a hard time. Would like to hear you talk about it more if you notice anything. Great vid as always, love following along!
Definitely going to be digging into it a little bit more now that i'm hearing it from others and i've seen it on all of my minis, not just the first one, as it initially was. Thanks for the support!
Disable fan on ironing.
@@Jokershadow696 I do this on the P1S for the auxiliary fan but will try on the A1 as well.
I had same issues with ironing. You need to disable fan when ironing. Add extra g code to profile.
I think is this one
{if extrusion_role=~/Ironing/}
M106 S0 ; disable fan
M106 P2 S0 ; disable additional fan
{endif}
Insert it to change extrusion role g code
Thanks for the tip, I'll add it to my list of things to test out!
I use a lot of PETG; anycubic is made by sunlu. As is kingroon, jayo, techbears and probably a few others.
As for color matching festool green, bambu's lime green PETG HF and hatchbox's lime green PETG are virtually perfect matches. Hatchbox is a bit better with heat resistance.
Thanks for the tip about the lime green PETG! That will be helpful. I will definitely be ordering some of the Lime Green PETG-HF and I use Hatchbox for the Makita Green/Blue already so I've got those settings dialed in as well!
@@TheMountainMaker No problem! I did the same search for a perfect festool green myself. Protopasta makes a "loostef" green that's a a perfect match, but it's PLA. I prefer PETG for functional parts. Hatchbox is good stuff, just a bit more than I'm used to spending per spool, so I grab a few spools whenever they have a sale.
Polymaker's dark blue is a close match to festool's dark blue they use on their tool bodies. Also, voxelab (made by flashforge) makes a dark blue carbon fiber PETG that's probably a bit closer to festool's tool body color than the polymaker; the color is "midnight blue".
Happy printing!
Thanks again! Totally agree with you on the PLA vs PETG. I started printing the Sander holders out of PLA and I could separate them at the layer lines where the lip started to come up. Didn't matter which PLA I used, switched to PETG and problem solved.
over 4k now :D
I have the a1 and ironing was terrible, I got it a lot better by changing to 25% and 25mm/s, still not perfect. I was shocked because my artillery sidewinder x1 does ironing beautifully and that printer is 5 years old. Bambu needs to do more work on their profiles and updates etc. I hope they don’t become like creality or stratsys.
I'll give it a try! I think they are moving forward in the right direction! It takes a lot to startup a company and they kind of accelerated to the top faster than expected. I think 2025 will be a big year for 3D Printing across the board, especially with some of the other manufacturers coming out with Multicolor printing now.
Yo bro! Love the content I saw that you were putting in the elegoo filament in your AMS without any adapters do you recommend doing that? Or do you just not care about the dust from the cardboard
Thanks man! I appreciate it!
I have, and would recommend printing the adapters to preserve the parts for as long as you can. But when it actually comes down to using them in my day to day operation, i can’t say i keep up with it. They pretty much only get used now if the spool comes damaged. Then it needs that extra help otherwise it would definitely come apart in the AMS.
You mainly have Bambu printers. What is the reason for using Orca silcert instead of your own Bambu slicer?
They’re basically the exact same piece of software aside from some small differences in regards to the calibration features that Orca offers. Having started with other brands of printers, and also having some more coming soon that are not Bambu, i just prefer to stick with one slicer. Not that Bambu Studio wouldn’t work with other printers, but i started with Prusa Slicer, moved to Orca and just decided to stick with it.
@@TheMountainMaker Thanks for your answer! Yes, I really miss the 3D adjustment function in the editing window (bottom left wireframe) of the Bambu slicer.
I use Bambu and Elegoo printers but with two separate software. I will consider your idea!