Need to pull my 91 yj cluster out, and try this. As the only thing that works properly is the clock. Fuel gauge reads accurately, until you turn the engine on, then it jumps up 1/4 tank higher. The oil pressure, engine temp do nothing, and the voltmeter needle constantly vibrates at +/- 14 volts.
I have some gauges go to the max and others that dont move at all. I know it could be other issues but does that sound like an issue caused by bad curcuit
Worth checking. An open circuit (take the connector off the sender) on fuel or temp or oil pressure should peg the gauge at 0. Shorting the removed connector to a good ground should peg the gauge at top of range. If not then there is a problem somewhere in the circuit that needs solving. You can also check senders to see of their resistance is changing. For example ohms on oil sender to ground with motor off then compare to reading with motor on.
The sending unit is inside the tank. If that's the issue then for a novice this may be a substantial job. For a seasoned person its maybe 3 to 5 hours total to do a quality job.
@@winterturtle5764 my buddy got me hooked on a Jeep he’s been working on cars since he was old enough to work the jack safely so if it’s not something I can do he will definitely help me thanks for the reply
I have not - but I understand it to be driven by a sensor and wiring so a check and clean won't hurt. I'd also recommend searching or asking on www.wranglerforum.com/forums/yj-tech-forum.218/ I'm a member there and there's people with 100x the expertise I have. Always knowledgeable and willing to help.
They rotate maybe 1/8 of a turn counterclockwise and should then be released and pull straight out. There is a small detent holding them but it should give under gentle firm pressure.
My best advice is to do a quick Google and see if there is aftermarket support. Jeeps are so beloved theres a lot of support. If not then I'd go right to CL or marketplace and find someone local parting one out. Theres several in my area at any given time and I've had very good luck that way. Best of luck in your hunt!
Question...I did this just like you did, and I went from having a couple of the gauges that kind of worked to none of them working now. The only thing I can think of is maybe I put the black diamond shaped nuts that hold the two posts for each gauge in backward? Can you put them in a wrong way so that a positive or negative polarity gets messed up?
Anything is possible but I think the earlier poster has the idea. Make sure you're getting + to the gauge before getting too far. My old f150 has a 12v feed then a 5v supply yo the gauges... in vase ypu run into DC woes
The black plastic diamond plate can be installed either way so long as the pins socket themselves into the gauge itself. If none of your guages work, check the fuse under the dash called IGN LMPS and ACC LMPS should be a 15A and a 5A fuse. disconnect battery before messing with any of this so you dont pop a fuse accidentally. After that if it still doesnt work, check the ground on the block of the motor. it is usually on the side of the block attached at the same point the oil dipstick is mounted to the block. remove and clean that ground and reinstall.
I changed to LEDS today and plugged everything back in and now my gas gauge went passed full when I turn ignition off it goes down turn it back on goes all the way up I didn’t disconnect battery when I changed the bulbs any help would appreciate it. 87 YJ
I've forgotten which is which but you should be able to pull the connector off the sensor at the engine - then with nothing connected it should be all the way to one side. Grounding out the connector with a jumper should make the gage peg the other way. If so - the sensor (sender) is the issue. If no change... you have a wiring issue to investigate.
If they all quit at once then I'd tend to be with you that corrosion isn't likely the cause. If it were me I'd find the closest year Cherokee cluster wiring diagram I could and trace the power from the source up to the gauge set. There's probably a 12v feed to an instrument voltage regulator then to the gauges and from there it'll split and go from the gauges to each individual sender. The 12v to the regulator then probably about 5v to the gauge cluster should all have the juice with key in run position.
One thing others have pointed were the ground connections from the battery. I've check and cleaned every ground connection I could find, and that didn't do anything.
Yeah bad grounds can cause screwey issues for sure. Never bad to verify them. Since they all quit at once though I feel like that leads to the supply side. The gauge lines ground through the senders which produces signal - so if the tank sender and block are properly grounded them that should be taken care of. If it were me I'd trace the source power by a diagram first.
Cutting off the cat won't make a noticeable difference. Is this a stock vehicle? I run 33s with the 2.5L and stock 4.11 gears - it works around town but can't go above about 65 and is kinda sluggish on road. The only real solution is gears. 4.56 or 4.88 would do depending on the driving desired... even with a 6cyl you may consider lowering your ratio. But for me its perfectly fine. I runabout in town and use mine as a trail rig.
Awesome tip bud. Thank you. My 90 is having that issue too. Merry Christmas 🎅 👍
Need to pull my 91 yj cluster out, and try this. As the only thing that works properly is the clock. Fuel gauge reads accurately, until you turn the engine on, then it jumps up 1/4 tank higher. The oil pressure, engine temp do nothing, and the voltmeter needle constantly vibrates at +/- 14 volts.
Awesome video! Thanks you!!!
I just did it to my Jeep and it fixed the crap out of it!
I have some gauges go to the max and others that dont move at all. I know it could be other issues but does that sound like an issue caused by bad curcuit
Worth checking. An open circuit (take the connector off the sender) on fuel or temp or oil pressure should peg the gauge at 0. Shorting the removed connector to a good ground should peg the gauge at top of range. If not then there is a problem somewhere in the circuit that needs solving.
You can also check senders to see of their resistance is changing. For example ohms on oil sender to ground with motor off then compare to reading with motor on.
Does the clock work?
I’m in the process of buying an 89 YJ with a fuel gauge that doesn’t work. is the sending unit for the fuel gauge under the gas tank?
The sending unit is inside the tank. If that's the issue then for a novice this may be a substantial job. For a seasoned person its maybe 3 to 5 hours total to do a quality job.
@@winterturtle5764 my buddy got me hooked on a Jeep he’s been working on cars since he was old enough to work the jack safely so if it’s not something I can do he will definitely help me thanks for the reply
Have you ever experienced only your speedometer not working? Would this help with the circuit board behind speedo gauges?
I have not - but I understand it to be driven by a sensor and wiring so a check and clean won't hurt.
I'd also recommend searching or asking on www.wranglerforum.com/forums/yj-tech-forum.218/
I'm a member there and there's people with 100x the expertise I have. Always knowledgeable and willing to help.
@@winterturtle5764 cable running from your transmission connected?
@@ketocajun7451 the backup lamps yes. The OD sensor no. I have a newer ax5 without the boss for it to install in
How do you remove the black oval pieces? Mine feel stuck
They rotate maybe 1/8 of a turn counterclockwise and should then be released and pull straight out. There is a small detent holding them but it should give under gentle firm pressure.
Looking for the plug to that cluster any ideas where I can find one?
My best advice is to do a quick Google and see if there is aftermarket support. Jeeps are so beloved theres a lot of support.
If not then I'd go right to CL or marketplace and find someone local parting one out. Theres several in my area at any given time and I've had very good luck that way.
Best of luck in your hunt!
Question...I did this just like you did, and I went from having a couple of the gauges that kind of worked to none of them working now. The only thing I can think of is maybe I put the black diamond shaped nuts that hold the two posts for each gauge in backward? Can you put them in a wrong way so that a positive or negative polarity gets messed up?
You may have shorted it out and blown a fuse. Check that
Anything is possible but I think the earlier poster has the idea. Make sure you're getting + to the gauge before getting too far.
My old f150 has a 12v feed then a 5v supply yo the gauges... in vase ypu run into DC woes
The black plastic diamond plate can be installed either way so long as the pins socket themselves into the gauge itself. If none of your guages work, check the fuse under the dash called IGN LMPS and ACC LMPS should be a 15A and a 5A fuse. disconnect battery before messing with any of this so you dont pop a fuse accidentally. After that if it still doesnt work, check the ground on the block of the motor. it is usually on the side of the block attached at the same point the oil dipstick is mounted to the block. remove and clean that ground and reinstall.
I changed to LEDS today and plugged everything back in and now my gas gauge went passed full when I turn ignition off it goes down turn it back on goes all the way up I didn’t disconnect battery when I changed the bulbs any help would appreciate it. 87 YJ
so my temp guage is grounding out? The guege is pegged at maximum
I've forgotten which is which but you should be able to pull the connector off the sensor at the engine - then with nothing connected it should be all the way to one side. Grounding out the connector with a jumper should make the gage peg the other way. If so - the sensor (sender) is the issue. If no change... you have a wiring issue to investigate.
@@winterturtle5764 Wasn't sure where the sensor is but I have since found it and the wire is broke off.
I have an '89 Cherokee. All of my gauges quit working. I'm thinking it needs more than just a cleaning. But I'll try it.
If they all quit at once then I'd tend to be with you that corrosion isn't likely the cause.
If it were me I'd find the closest year Cherokee cluster wiring diagram I could and trace the power from the source up to the gauge set. There's probably a 12v feed to an instrument voltage regulator then to the gauges and from there it'll split and go from the gauges to each individual sender. The 12v to the regulator then probably about 5v to the gauge cluster should all have the juice with key in run position.
Also check your fuses first. Occam's Razor ya know?
One thing others have pointed were the ground connections from the battery. I've check and cleaned every ground connection I could find, and that didn't do anything.
Yeah bad grounds can cause screwey issues for sure. Never bad to verify them. Since they all quit at once though I feel like that leads to the supply side. The gauge lines ground through the senders which produces signal - so if the tank sender and block are properly grounded them that should be taken care of.
If it were me I'd trace the source power by a diagram first.
my 1989 YJ won't go over 65 miles an hour and loses power on inclines. any ideas? maybe cut off the catalytic converter?
Cutting off the cat won't make a noticeable difference. Is this a stock vehicle? I run 33s with the 2.5L and stock 4.11 gears - it works around town but can't go above about 65 and is kinda sluggish on road. The only real solution is gears. 4.56 or 4.88 would do depending on the driving desired... even with a 6cyl you may consider lowering your ratio.
But for me its perfectly fine. I runabout in town and use mine as a trail rig.
Definitely a tire and gear problem I switched from 33s to 31s i knownits just a 2 inch difference but it helped out tremendously
Possibly the trans slipping.
Is it a manual transmission? If so then you just need a new clutch