I've also had my bandsaw for years, just purchased new bearings for it and learned every step of the way. Now, from 'Scott, I learned I can use the miter gauge as a fence, can't wait to get started. Thank you!
Good video. I had to chuckle at the reverse middle finger featherboard. Btw, thank you for giving some clarity on the drift issue specific to SS bandsaws. I've always been intrigued by people who say you can eliminate drift but long ago gave up on the idea. Now I'm glad I didn't devote too much time to trying to get rid of it. And like you say, it's easy to adjust for once you know how.
Dana, I have to admit that it was only as the cut progressed that I realized that didn't give myself enough room to move to where I would be most comfortable, so things ended awkwardly. Gonna have to lear to edit! Scott
I have two Shopsmith Bandsaws, one of each aluminum and cast iron. I don't have the drift issue with either of them. Back in the early eighties, I made siding for my house using my cast iron tabled bandsaw. I ripped a large stack of 16-foot siding using the miter gauge fence. I wore out three blades.
Another thing I just learned: When I got my Shopsmith it came with a miter gauge attachable (with knobs) wooden sled -and now, since I have the old iron tabletop bandsaw, I just realized after watching this It can also be used as a fence.
Thanks for your insights, Scott. I have the newer style bandsaw, which I’ve been setting up using your previous videos. I have Spec tape which I use for templates but I like your idea to use for jigs as well. I wish you were my neighbor!! See you mid-week.
You all prolly dont give a damn but does any of you know of a method to log back into an instagram account..? I stupidly forgot the account password. I love any tips you can offer me!
@Mohamed Kyson I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm trying it out now. Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
Thanks for another excellent video. I used to teach classes at Woodcraft (and I'm sure you can see where this is headed) and the conventional wisdom was that if you wanted good results when resawing you needed at least a fourteen inch band saw, and an expensive one at that, and just for good measure it should be outfitted with Carter guides. Even though not one of them owned a Shopsmith, the store employees were convinced that this kind of accuracy was not possible with a small saw. Thanks for setting the record straight.
HA! Yes, I saw exactly where this was going! Every once in a while, during my frequent business trips, I'll visit a Woodcraft or Rockler and they won't be poisoned against Shopsmith tools. I always ask in every time it's because some highly respected and talented woodworker among them has shown them the way. We'll get to them all eventually! Scott
Great video Scott. As I told you in another comment, I finally fired up the SS bandsaw I've had kicking around the shop for years, mainly to make sure that it was in good shape before I sold it. I love the way it cuts! I'm not selling it! I've used the miter gauge for a fence before, but now I will use it on my bandsaw. Love the idea of setting it to adjust for drift! Keep the good suggestions coming.
That's so cool to hear, Stew. Yes, the miter gauge as a fence is just so efficient and practical. Like so many things on this saw it makes me wonder why it wasn't copied until the clones came along. Scott
Aaaaaaaaand, once again !! YOU DA MAN !! So much I could learn from you you and other masters on here !! In the meantime, I'm still cranking out SAWDUST .....grrrr ... LOL !!
@@MyGrowthRings, not JUST saw dust ... I'm getting better every time I go out in the shop with all I've learned from you ! Thank You SOOOO much Scott !!
This video was really helpful to me this weekend. I resawed 4x4 cedar post on my bandsaw, one of which was over 11 feet long. Details posted to the Shopsmith Owners Group on Facebook.
I was just dealing with this issue today and was not able to resolve it! I had used the practice cut method for fence alignment on my large band saw at school before, but never thought to try it on the shopsmith. And I did not know that the set screw could be used to clamp the miter gauge in the slots. Boy, have I had some difficulties trying to do that with f clamps; there may have been some f-bombs involved too. Can't wait to try these techniques out tomorrow!
@@MyGrowthRings Worked! Turns out, my miter gage bar is tight enough as is. The paper wouldn't fit in the slot, no matter how much I loosened the screw.
Okay , this is another PHD type presentation! Love my SS Band Saw but haven't really used it much other than cutting out shapes for some Arondak chairs, which turned out fantastic. The example you showed would be a perfect alternative for edge banding plywood cabinets. Thanks for sharing. Curt.
Thanks Curt. Oh yes, you can easily make edge banding. And FastCap sells what they call "SpeedTape", which is the double-sided tape that I use for permanent bonds like thin wood edgebanding, but if you cut it thick enough you can always used woodglue.
This video would have been helpful 20 plus years ago when I was doing a lot of re-sawing for the local ladies at church. Their monthly projects were tole painting and I was the go-to guy cutting out wood decorations for them to paint. To hold my miter bar in place, I would use a clamp and a thin strip of wood the width of the miter bar to clamp the miter gauge to the table. I still do it that way, but I will try your way of holding the gauge tight. I never thought about using a paper shim.
@@MyGrowthRings Hi Scott. I just installed the Carter Bandsaw guides. I think it made a big difference. I made several thin cuts to test it out. No drifting whatsoever. I also tried your paper trick using the mitergauge slot. It works really well and holds it tight. Thanks again for all your help and info.
@@MyGrowthRings Great...I'll look forward to it. I know you can look at the gauge, but I'd like to know how you really tune in the blade for optimum tension. Your knowledge of the machines made by SS is outstanding! Keep it up.
I have the aluminum style bandsaw table and have adjusted the fence for drift. Never saw the cast iron table before and how you adjust the cross cut to become a fence. Very clever.
Blade back up bearings: I used the cheap 627ZZ bearings in all 3 locations on my saw. In the upper and lower guide locations, I added a couple washers to limit side play and center the bearing on the blade. Didn't even need to machine any custom spacers. These bearings are 10 for $10 on EBAY as opposed to the 770371bearings which are around $20 each. I personally don't see a need for the wider double row bearings on this small machine, the single 627ZZ's work just fine. Also, my cast iron table was also rusted. I glass bead blasted it with fine beads and low (35PSI) air pressure after taping off the perimeter of the table sides with duct tape to protect the paint. It gave it a smooth satin finish, not shiny polished, but that's good enough for me and it was a quick process. This does not remove any metal and is not very aggressive. It can still be sanded to a shiny finish if desired.
Great video Scott, thank you. Would you consider some deep dive maintenance videos? For things like lower wheel removal, beltsander drive wheel removal, bearing replacements on about everything, and such. And the more odd SPTs like Pin Router, Ring Master, compressor, etc.
Yep, they are all on the list, except lower wheel removal, which isn't worth the effort. if that bearing is shot you might as well start with a fresh wheel and bearing. Scott
I was just gonna say, “That miter needs an auxiliary fence.” And ‘POOF’ there it was!!! . I broke my spare set screw and am running on my last one. I’ve tried silicon spray... JWax... even WD40... next time, I’m gonna use paper! Nice job in this vid
Thanks for showing me how to make a cut with the bandsaw. I wanted to follow up with the cheap shot follow up video but I can’t find it. Would you please send me the link for it? Keep up the good works.
Here’s the link: STUMPED Q&A: Ripping & Resawing on a Shopsmith Bandsaw W/ Cast Iron Table ruclips.net/video/2ypsjPnepLA/видео.html however… the follow-up Q&A videos are only public for roughly one week after they are posted and then they belong to channel members. If something like that is of interest to you might look into channel membership. For four dollars a month he would have his ability to all of those videos and you can cancel at any time. Cheaper than any Woodworking magazine subscription! Happy resawing.
great - thanks. I have a saw identical to the one you are using in the video. What causes drift to begin with? it seems to be different with each blade change, and for all i know (I have not really tested) different from one usage to the next even on the same blade - is it a function of the blade, the tires, the tension, etc - ? Why can't it be dialed out? when ripping the blade guides don't really do much - but could you reduce the drift by snugging them up to the blade? it's easy enough to accomodate for the drift as you have shown, but just wondered about your take on the above.
Hey Jim. The drift on the Shopsmith bandsaw is cause by a combination of the shape of the conical upper wheel and the backward cant of the upper wheel. There are a few other things but that's the bulk of it. Yes, having the guide blocks close to the blade helps and even upgrading to Carter Blade Guides seems to help, but I'm still getting drift. Scott
Hi Scott, thanks for that helpful information. I'm getting a MkV ShopSmith into working order for a "Men in Sheds" group in the UK and as you say the ShopSmith has little details of its own that matter.
@@MyGrowthRings Hi Scott, our “Men in Sheds” group is located on a farm in a village near Nottingham England. There are between 8 and 12 of us. This part of the farm is a community project involved with Agriforestry and Edible woodland research. The shed men get involved with the planting and maintenance of the trees some of which are apple trees that a cider club make cider with. In the Autumn we help with the apple harvest and pressing to make cider. We also are quite active making and mending. We often do small refurbsihments to small items for the local Church and community.
Thank you so much for this video. I have been thinking I was doing something wrong to get the drift. The miter fence I got doesn't have the set screw. Is that a standard size I could pick up at ye old neighborhood Ace.
Hey Suzzette. No, it's a funky, tapered set screw that to the best of my knowledge is proprietary. I'd love it if someone could jump in here and correct me, but for sure Shopsmith offers it. Scott
Good question. I think I would take a look at the blades offered by sawblade.com. I’ve heard good things about their product and know that the blades I usually use would not be appropriate for that application. Scott
Hi Scott, How do I make a jig (probably for my bandsaw) to cut a 2" x 2" x 16" piece of basswood lengthwise into two triangular shaped pieces for carving? Dennis
You hit the nail on the head with the bandsaw. I will take a piece of quarter inch plywood as a mobile base and attached to that a couple positioning pieces using double sided tape.
Any issue with fence flex on the opposite side of the table? I’ve clamped some support blocks there just in case but have you ever found a need to do so?
John, if you are viewing this on a PC or a mobile device you can click the “Show More” link and you’ll see links to two blades that I use most often: One 1/4” blade wot all-around sawing and a 1/2” blade that I use for all resawing. If you can’t see it let me know and I’ll post the links in a comment. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Yup, I was on my phone, and am at the iMac, and can see your recommends fine; thanks, again … I'm aligning my new Mk7 and have in mind some re-sawing … :-)
Hi Scott, you may have done this before, but could you elaborate on the “spec tape” I assume it is a double stick tape, but what is it and where do you get it. Thanks, Jim
Sure, I can do that. In the mean time, I've added a link to it in the video description, as well as a link tot he tape that I use when I do want a permanent bond. Scott
I wonder if Olson bandsaw blades are any better than the blades Shopsmith sells? I've been using them for years. I'm guessing they're the "cheap hardware store brand", but they seem to work.
First off, I apologize for losing your reply to me. I'm getting drift & bowing resawing 3.5" wide stock to 3/16" thick. You sent your recommendation, I believe, it was a Timber wolf band, 72" x 5/8" x 6 PTI. Is that correct?
I'm having an issue ripping on the table saw. I've tried to rip down the middle of a length of 2x4 and 2x6, both times dividing the "2" (1-1/2" actually) and both stop at the same place which is about 3-4" of travel. The blade continues to turn, burning the wood until I back it out or switch off the motor. I removed the kick-back guard, and it did the same. It cross cuts easily, but when I repeatedly attempt to rip, it stops at the same place, no matter the wood and will not advance. I can't figure out what is stopping the advance...
Sounds very frustrating. Is this is on the SS Bandsaw? Are you freehand cutting or using a fence? If there’s a fence it may not be set parallel to the drift of the blade. Anything more you can share? Scott
@@MyGrowthRings It is on the SS MKV 500 table saw, not the bandsaw. This occurs with or without the fence. I checked for binding there and removed as a test. I also tested with and without the blade guard. I do not remember this being a problem in the past.
@@pastordavid5525 Sorry for my confusion. That’s what I get for rushing to answer a question while they are shutting the door on my plane! It certainly doesn’t sound normal, especially if the blade continues to turn. I would assume that either the end of the board is hitting some thing such as where the table insert ends, or, if there’s a knot or something hanging down from the bottom of the board that catches the front of the table. If the blade is bogging down, that is usually an issue of either slipping belts, or running the machine on a long extension cord. Perhaps consider should I get my phone is shooting a quick video of that happening could be helpful. Is that something you could do? Shop
@@MyGrowthRings I am running a long cord at present due to saw placement. Yes, there is a bogging down, and I believe you are correct in that assessment. I have a shorter, higher amp extension that I normally use (it was at church) and will use next. Still, it does appear to be a mechanical block of some sort, especially since it continues to spin and burn the wood. I will take the saw apart and see if anything obvious appears, then retry with a short video. Thanks for your time. Happy and safe travels!
What happens if you set the fence up parallel to the blade? Will the wood change thickness because of drift? I would think no matter what the blade does, the wood is locked between the blade and fence and the thickness would remain constant. Can you demonstrate what happens when you do not account for drift? Thanks.
Hey Tom, sure, I'd be happy to demonstrate that. Depending upon which way the blade is drifting the board will either be pulled away from the fence, or shoved into the fence with the blade eventually bowing out in the center. It's quite exciting when you are sawing something important or expensive! Scott
@@MyGrowthRings With blade drift I get "chattering" using the PowerPro headstock. So severe that the set screws come loose on the drive hubs. Extra incentive to adjust for proper blade drift.
Scott, just got the latest copy of Woodsmith magazine and they have plans for a pivot point guide for resawing on a bandsaw. Have you ever tried this on the Shopsmith? I have a 500 and have used your videos to set up my miter gauge as a fence and to account for the drift, per your videos. I wondered how a pivot point guide might perform on my machine. Any experience with that?
I haven’t seen the issue, but are you saying that they have a vertical pivot point that is in line with the blade? If so, I have used that design, but prefer a fence.
@@MyGrowthRings Yes, it's like a block of wood standing vertically with a rounded bull nose that is next to the blade, maybe a bit ahead of the blade. The pivot point is the guide that keeps a consistent width, and then you supposedly follow your line you drew. I just wondered how effective this is.
@@tzavitz I've used them and they do require that you draw an accurate line before each cut and you really have to concentrate on the cut. As I said, I prefer just to adjust the fence to accommodate any drift and then just saw away.
Hey Scott, I’ve set up to what you said on my bandsaw and I still can’t get a good straight cut. What could I be missing? Should I tighten the blade? I’m stumped! Thanks in advance. Denny
There's a new plywood DIY kit being promoted that might do the job, but commercial power feeders are super expensive. Even a cheapo ShopFox (Grizzly) is over $400 amzn.to/3wIxMOZ Do you have a lot of resawing to do? Scott
Hi Scott, I just saw a modified 500 Table saw fence for sale on Ebay that fits the cast iron Band saw table. I was wondering if you or anyone has seen it ? I have an extra 500 fence that I think I will experiment with ! Looks like a winner but who knows................
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks for a quick answer ! I'm going to try to do a little "cleaner" job on mine. I'll actually use the end cap and weld it back on to give it a "STOCK" appearance. Wish "I" had thought of it !! Glad to share what I find if it makes life a little easier ! I'm thinking you could use the offset screws to accommodate for re-saw ?? The adjustment screws might just help with off setting the fence ??
Reset the tracking or Forest the fence? The tracking should be automatic, so other than resetting the guide blocks, there shouldn’t be a need to reset the tracing. As for the fence, yes, every blade will drift slightly differently, so you’ll want to check it with a trial cut and adjust for the drift if each blade. Scott
This is an older cast iron table bandsaw, just like the one in your video. The tires were recently replaced. I'm using a 5/8" re-saw blade. After a few attempts, I adjusted the guides, positioned them close to the blade gullets. I believe I followed your instructions.
@@MyGrowthRings yes, I used the miter gauge, exactly as you did in the video. First I made the hand rip cut, drew the drift lines on the table. Adjusted the mitre gauge. Then tried to make thin re saw cuts. It was a total failure.
After watching your other bandsaw videos I learned a few adjustments on my bandsaw were out of spec. I readjusted the rollers/alinements. Then I went back through the steps in this video. My outcome was better, but not perfect yet……thanks for the valuable information you are passing to those of us lucky enough to stumble upon an old Shopsmith!
I've also had my bandsaw for years, just purchased new bearings for it and learned every step of the way. Now, from 'Scott, I learned I can use the miter gauge as a fence, can't wait to get started. Thank you!
That’s great, David.
Great demonstration
Thanks! Scott
Good video. I had to chuckle at the reverse middle finger featherboard. Btw, thank you for giving some clarity on the drift issue specific to SS bandsaws. I've always been intrigued by people who say you can eliminate drift but long ago gave up on the idea. Now I'm glad I didn't devote too much time to trying to get rid of it. And like you say, it's easy to adjust for once you know how.
Dana, I have to admit that it was only as the cut progressed that I realized that didn't give myself enough room to move to where I would be most comfortable, so things ended awkwardly. Gonna have to lear to edit! Scott
I think the paper shim is a good idea to use anytime the lock screw is used whether on bandsaw or tables saw. Good information. Thanks
Thanks Ellis. Whenever I forget I always remember as I'm tightening the setscrew and I think "I sure hope this doesn't get stuck!"
I have two Shopsmith Bandsaws, one of each aluminum and cast iron. I don't have the drift issue with either of them.
Back in the early eighties, I made siding for my house using my cast iron tabled bandsaw. I ripped a large stack of 16-foot siding using the miter gauge fence. I wore out three blades.
That's a lot of sawing!
I hope you adhered a Shopsmith emblem on your siding in honor of your fine sawing skills!
Another thing I just learned: When I got my Shopsmith it came with a miter gauge attachable (with knobs) wooden sled -and now, since I have the old iron tabletop bandsaw, I just realized after watching this It can also be used as a fence.
Yep, it's a pretty cool tool once you get to know it. Scott
Glad you moved your thumb during the resaw.
Happy to have seen this video! I have a cast iron table and was wondering what I would do for a fence! Now I know! Thanks!! Cheers - Luther
Glad you found it helpful, Luther. Scott
Another great one. I gotta remember that paper trick this time.
Yes you do!
Thanks for your insights, Scott. I have the newer style bandsaw, which I’ve been setting up using your previous videos. I have Spec tape which I use for templates but I like your idea to use for jigs as well. I wish you were my neighbor!! See you mid-week.
I'm sure that Chuck could tell you stories!
You all prolly dont give a damn but does any of you know of a method to log back into an instagram account..?
I stupidly forgot the account password. I love any tips you can offer me!
@Phoenix James Instablaster =)
@Mohamed Kyson I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm trying it out now.
Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Mohamed Kyson it worked and I actually got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thank you so much you saved my account!
Thanks for another excellent video. I used to teach classes at Woodcraft (and I'm sure you can see where this is headed) and the conventional wisdom was that if you wanted good results when resawing you needed at least a fourteen inch band saw, and an expensive one at that, and just for good measure it should be outfitted with Carter guides. Even though not one of them owned a Shopsmith, the store employees were convinced that this kind of accuracy was not possible with a small saw. Thanks for setting the record straight.
HA! Yes, I saw exactly where this was going! Every once in a while, during my frequent business trips, I'll visit a Woodcraft or Rockler and they won't be poisoned against Shopsmith tools. I always ask in every time it's because some highly respected and talented woodworker among them has shown them the way. We'll get to them all eventually! Scott
Great video Scott. As I told you in another comment, I finally fired up the SS bandsaw I've had kicking around the shop for years, mainly to make sure that it was in good shape before I sold it. I love the way it cuts! I'm not selling it! I've used the miter gauge for a fence before, but now I will use it on my bandsaw. Love the idea of setting it to adjust for drift! Keep the good suggestions coming.
That's so cool to hear, Stew. Yes, the miter gauge as a fence is just so efficient and practical. Like so many things on this saw it makes me wonder why it wasn't copied until the clones came along. Scott
Aaaaaaaaand, once again !! YOU DA MAN !! So much I could learn from you you and other masters on here !! In the meantime, I'm still cranking out SAWDUST .....grrrr ... LOL !!
Thanks Art.
@@MyGrowthRings, not JUST saw dust ... I'm getting better every time I go out in the shop with all I've learned from you ! Thank You SOOOO much Scott !!
I switched from the new table back to the cast iron. Love the old style. Thanks for the information.
I've given that a lot of thought, too. There's a lot to like about the original design, that's for sure. Scott
Hi Scott, Thanks for the great content, and the excellent effort!
Thanks Albert.
This video was really helpful to me this weekend. I resawed 4x4 cedar post on my bandsaw, one of which was over 11 feet long. Details posted to the Shopsmith Owners Group on Facebook.
Glad it helped and I'll track down your post. Scott
I was just dealing with this issue today and was not able to resolve it!
I had used the practice cut method for fence alignment on my large band saw at school before, but never thought to try it on the shopsmith.
And I did not know that the set screw could be used to clamp the miter gauge in the slots. Boy, have I had some difficulties trying to do that with f clamps; there may have been some f-bombs involved too.
Can't wait to try these techniques out tomorrow!
Just make sure to add a piece of paper under the bar before tightening the set screw.
@@MyGrowthRings Worked!
Turns out, my miter gage bar is tight enough as is. The paper wouldn't fit in the slot, no matter how much I loosened the screw.
Thank you for the nice video Scott, going to put the things I learned tomorrow. Thanks again.
Excellent. It's always good to put new techniques into practice quickly. Scott
Okay , this is another PHD type presentation! Love my SS Band Saw but haven't really used it much other than cutting out shapes for some Arondak chairs, which turned out fantastic. The example you showed would be a perfect alternative for edge banding plywood cabinets. Thanks for sharing. Curt.
Thanks Curt. Oh yes, you can easily make edge banding. And FastCap sells what they call "SpeedTape", which is the double-sided tape that I use for permanent bonds like thin wood edgebanding, but if you cut it thick enough you can always used woodglue.
This video would have been helpful 20 plus years ago when I was doing a lot of re-sawing for the local ladies at church. Their monthly projects were tole painting and I was the go-to guy cutting out wood decorations for them to paint.
To hold my miter bar in place, I would use a clamp and a thin strip of wood the width of the miter bar to clamp the miter gauge to the table. I still do it that way, but I will try your way of holding the gauge tight. I never thought about using a paper shim.
Hey Norm. Well, the good news is you know now. Let me know how it works out for you. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Hi Scott. I just installed the Carter Bandsaw guides. I think it made a big difference. I made several thin cuts to test it out. No drifting whatsoever. I also tried your paper trick using the mitergauge slot. It works really well and holds it tight. Thanks again for all your help and info.
@@mcnormYT Glad to hear it. They really seem to work well.
This works fantastic! You are Terrific
Glad to hear it and thanks! Scott
Thank you for your knowledge sharing and professionalism.
So nice of you, Bill. Thanks for watching and commenting. Scott
I have the old tabletop so this was great! Love your videos.
Forgot to ask but can you discuss how to be sure you have the proper tension on the SS bandsaw blades?
Thanks for the kind comment. Scott
Sure thing. I've mentioned it somewhere before but couldn't begin to know where to direct you! We'll cover it in the mid-week follow-up. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Great...I'll look forward to it. I know you can look at the gauge, but I'd like to know how you really tune in the blade for optimum tension. Your knowledge of the machines made by SS is outstanding! Keep it up.
Very helpful. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful! Scott
Another great BS demo & thanks for additional details on the blades you used (and normally use).
You are welcome. I'm assuming you saw those details in the video description? Scott
I have the aluminum style bandsaw table and have adjusted the fence for drift. Never saw the cast iron table before and how you adjust the cross cut to become a fence. Very clever.
Anne, I agree. The guys who designed the Mark V designed the bandsaw and it is a thing of beauty.
Excellent video thanks so much
Thanks!
Carter mag fence and FAST set up bars!
I have the Mag Fence but not the FAST bars. I can see how they might be the cat’s meow.
Blade back up bearings: I used the cheap 627ZZ bearings in all 3 locations on my saw. In the upper and lower guide locations, I added a couple washers to limit side play and center the bearing on the blade. Didn't even need to machine any custom spacers. These bearings are 10 for $10 on EBAY as opposed to the 770371bearings which are around $20 each. I personally don't see a need for the wider double row bearings on this small machine, the single 627ZZ's work just fine. Also, my cast iron table was also rusted. I glass bead blasted it with fine beads and low (35PSI) air pressure after taping off the perimeter of the table sides with duct tape to protect the paint. It gave it a smooth satin finish, not shiny polished, but that's good enough for me and it was a quick process. This does not remove any metal and is not very aggressive. It can still be sanded to a shiny finish if desired.
I've done the same. In fact, I had some of those bearings left from a project I did about 5 years ago on this very channel. Scott
Great video Scott, thank you. Would you consider some deep dive maintenance videos? For things like lower wheel removal, beltsander drive wheel removal, bearing replacements on about everything, and such. And the more odd SPTs like Pin Router, Ring Master, compressor, etc.
Yep, they are all on the list, except lower wheel removal, which isn't worth the effort. if that bearing is shot you might as well start with a fresh wheel and bearing. Scott
I was just gonna say, “That miter needs an auxiliary fence.” And ‘POOF’ there it was!!!
. I broke my spare set screw and am running on my last one. I’ve tried silicon spray... JWax... even WD40... next time, I’m gonna use paper!
Nice job in this vid
It is so frustrating to feel that setscrew refusing to back-out, isn't it? Glad you picked-up a trick. Scott
Thanks for showing me how to make a cut with the bandsaw. I wanted to follow up with the cheap shot follow up video but I can’t find it. Would you please send me the link for it? Keep up the good works.
Here’s the link: STUMPED Q&A: Ripping & Resawing on a Shopsmith Bandsaw W/ Cast Iron Table
ruclips.net/video/2ypsjPnepLA/видео.html however… the follow-up Q&A videos are only public for roughly one week after they are posted and then they belong to channel members. If something like that is of interest to you might look into channel membership. For four dollars a month he would have his ability to all of those videos and you can cancel at any time. Cheaper than any Woodworking magazine subscription! Happy resawing.
great - thanks. I have a saw identical to the one you are using in the video. What causes drift to begin with? it seems to be different with each blade change, and for all i know (I have not really tested) different from one usage to the next even on the same blade - is it a function of the blade, the tires, the tension, etc - ? Why can't it be dialed out? when ripping the blade guides don't really do much - but could you reduce the drift by snugging them up to the blade? it's easy enough to accomodate for the drift as you have shown, but just wondered about your take on the above.
Hey Jim. The drift on the Shopsmith bandsaw is cause by a combination of the shape of the conical upper wheel and the backward cant of the upper wheel. There are a few other things but that's the bulk of it. Yes, having the guide blocks close to the blade helps and even upgrading to Carter Blade Guides seems to help, but I'm still getting drift. Scott
Hi Scott, thanks for that helpful information. I'm getting a MkV ShopSmith into working order for a "Men in Sheds" group in the UK and as you say the ShopSmith has little details of its own that matter.
I really like the "Men in Sheds" concept. How many are in your shed and what sort of topics are you all drawn to? Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Hi Scott, our “Men in Sheds” group is located on a farm in a village near Nottingham England. There are between 8 and 12 of us. This part of the farm is a community project involved with Agriforestry and Edible woodland research. The shed men get involved with the planting and maintenance of the trees some of which are apple trees that a cider club make cider with. In the Autumn we help with the apple harvest and pressing to make cider. We also are quite active making and mending. We often do small refurbsihments to small items for the local Church and community.
Thank you so much for this video. I have been thinking I was doing something wrong to get the drift. The miter fence I got doesn't have the set screw. Is that a standard size I could pick up at ye old neighborhood Ace.
Hey Suzzette. No, it's a funky, tapered set screw that to the best of my knowledge is proprietary. I'd love it if someone could jump in here and correct me, but for sure Shopsmith offers it. Scott
Hey Scott, great video. Can you recommend a sorce for a light metal cutting blade for the bandsaw? Like aluminum and thin steel. Greg
Good question. I think I would take a look at the blades offered by sawblade.com. I’ve heard good things about their product and know that the blades I usually use would not be appropriate for that application. Scott
Thank you Scott. I appreciate the help. Metal doesn't have growth rings...lol Every now and then I mess with light Metal. Greg
@@gregwilsonnaturephotography You are right about that!
Hi Scott, How do I make a jig (probably for my bandsaw) to cut a 2" x 2" x 16" piece of basswood lengthwise into two triangular shaped pieces for carving?
Dennis
You hit the nail on the head with the bandsaw. I will take a piece of quarter inch plywood as a mobile base and attached to that a couple positioning pieces using double sided tape.
@@MyGrowthRings You're awesome. Thanks for the quick reply. Hope your move finishes up well.
Great information.
Thanks, Jim. Scott
Any issue with fence flex on the opposite side of the table? I’ve clamped some support blocks there just in case but have you ever found a need to do so?
Not really. If it’s flexing it means either it’s not quite properly aligned or I’m pushing into it too hard.
@@MyGrowthRings I’ll have to keep that in mind
Scott have you used the Craftsman Table Saw that was hidden in the background when you were re-sawing :)
No, I purchased it last year and have yet to tackle it. It needs work but she’s an interesting saw.
Love the Star Wars homage!
What blade do you use for resawing?
John, if you are viewing this on a PC or a mobile device you can click the “Show More” link and you’ll see links to two blades that I use most often: One 1/4” blade wot all-around sawing and a 1/2” blade that I use for all resawing. If you can’t see it let me know and I’ll post the links in a comment. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Yup, I was on my phone, and am at the iMac, and can see your recommends fine; thanks, again … I'm aligning my new Mk7 and have in mind some re-sawing … :-)
Awesome!
I noticed that at about 1:50 and continuing until you stopped the cut - the blade guide knob was shaking like crazy. What's that all about?
It's just something they do. That knob actually just floats on the thread. Scott
Hi Scott, you may have done this before, but could you elaborate on the “spec tape” I assume it is a double stick tape, but what is it and where do you get it. Thanks, Jim
Sure, I can do that. In the mean time, I've added a link to it in the video description, as well as a link tot he tape that I use when I do want a permanent bond. Scott
I wonder if Olson bandsaw blades are any better than the blades Shopsmith sells? I've been using them for years. I'm guessing they're the "cheap hardware store brand", but they seem to work.
I can't way who makes them today, but Olsen made them for SS back when I worked for them.
First off, I apologize for losing your reply to me.
I'm getting drift & bowing resawing 3.5" wide stock to 3/16" thick.
You sent your recommendation, I believe, it was a Timber wolf band, 72" x 5/8" x 6 PTI.
Is that correct?
Here’s the link: amzn.to/3FC0N4J
I'm having an issue ripping on the table saw. I've tried to rip down the middle of a length of 2x4 and 2x6, both times dividing the "2" (1-1/2" actually) and both stop at the same place which is about 3-4" of travel. The blade continues to turn, burning the wood until I back it out or switch off the motor. I removed the kick-back guard, and it did the same. It cross cuts easily, but when I repeatedly attempt to rip, it stops at the same place, no matter the wood and will not advance. I can't figure out what is stopping the advance...
Sounds very frustrating. Is this is on the SS Bandsaw? Are you freehand cutting or using a fence? If there’s a fence it may not be set parallel to the drift of the blade. Anything more you can share? Scott
@@MyGrowthRings It is on the SS MKV 500 table saw, not the bandsaw. This occurs with or without the fence. I checked for binding there and removed as a test. I also tested with and without the blade guard. I do not remember this being a problem in the past.
@@pastordavid5525 Sorry for my confusion. That’s what I get for rushing to answer a question while they are shutting the door on my plane! It certainly doesn’t sound normal, especially if the blade continues to turn. I would assume that either the end of the board is hitting some thing such as where the table insert ends, or, if there’s a knot or something hanging down from the bottom of the board that catches the front of the table. If the blade is bogging down, that is usually an issue of either slipping belts, or running the machine on a long extension cord. Perhaps consider should I get my phone is shooting a quick video of that happening could be helpful. Is that something you could do? Shop
@@MyGrowthRings I am running a long cord at present due to saw placement. Yes, there is a bogging down, and I believe you are correct in that assessment. I have a shorter, higher amp extension that I normally use (it was at church) and will use next. Still, it does appear to be a mechanical block of some sort, especially since it continues to spin and burn the wood. I will take the saw apart and see if anything obvious appears, then retry with a short video. Thanks for your time. Happy and safe travels!
What happens if you set the fence up parallel to the blade? Will the wood change thickness because of drift? I would think no matter what the blade does, the wood is locked between the blade and fence and the thickness would remain constant. Can you demonstrate what happens when you do not account for drift? Thanks.
Hey Tom, sure, I'd be happy to demonstrate that. Depending upon which way the blade is drifting the board will either be pulled away from the fence, or shoved into the fence with the blade eventually bowing out in the center. It's quite exciting when you are sawing something important or expensive! Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I’ve had this happen... and it sucks
@@gatheringsplinters4800 It sure does. And it always happens on important pieces.
@@MyGrowthRings With blade drift I get "chattering" using the PowerPro headstock. So severe that the set screws come loose on the drive hubs. Extra incentive to adjust for proper blade drift.
Scott, just got the latest copy of Woodsmith magazine and they have plans for a pivot point guide for resawing on a bandsaw. Have you ever tried this on the Shopsmith? I have a 500 and have used your videos to set up my miter gauge as a fence and to account for the drift, per your videos. I wondered how a pivot point guide might perform on my machine. Any experience with that?
I haven’t seen the issue, but are you saying that they have a vertical pivot point that is in line with the blade? If so, I have used that design, but prefer a fence.
@@MyGrowthRings Yes, it's like a block of wood standing vertically with a rounded bull nose that is next to the blade, maybe a bit ahead of the blade. The pivot point is the guide that keeps a consistent width, and then you supposedly follow your line you drew. I just wondered how effective this is.
@@tzavitz I've used them and they do require that you draw an accurate line before each cut and you really have to concentrate on the cut. As I said, I prefer just to adjust the fence to accommodate any drift and then just saw away.
@@MyGrowthRings thanks for the input.
@@tzavitz My pleasure.
Hey Scott, I’ve set up to what you said on my bandsaw and I still can’t get a good straight cut. What could I be missing? Should I tighten the blade? I’m stumped! Thanks in advance.
Denny
Let's assume you have it set properly; what blade are you running, how new is it and how thick is the stock?
@@MyGrowthRings it’s a new 1/2” blade from Shopsmith. The stock is 6” width x 1” thick red oak
What about a power feeder for any of these tools
There's a new plywood DIY kit being promoted that might do the job, but commercial power feeders are super expensive. Even a cheapo ShopFox (Grizzly) is over $400 amzn.to/3wIxMOZ Do you have a lot of resawing to do? Scott
Hi Scott, I just saw a modified 500 Table saw fence for sale on Ebay that fits the cast iron Band saw table. I was wondering if you or anyone has seen it ? I have an extra 500 fence that I think I will experiment with ! Looks like a winner but who knows................
Yep, the seller has shared it on the Shopsmith forums and in a SS Facebook group I am in. Pretty simple, once you add the fence rail.
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks for a quick answer ! I'm going to try to do a little "cleaner" job on mine. I'll actually use the end cap and weld it back on to give it a "STOCK" appearance. Wish "I" had thought of it !! Glad to share what I find if it makes life a little easier ! I'm thinking you could use the offset screws to accommodate for re-saw ?? The adjustment screws might just help with off setting the fence ??
Perhaps for the use of Chuck's bandsaw, you could clean and wax his bandsaw table before you return it...?
I'm way ahead of you.
@@MyGrowthRings You're a good neighbor.
Do you need to reset for different blades
Greg smith
Reset the tracking or Forest the fence? The tracking should be automatic, so other than resetting the guide blocks, there shouldn’t be a need to reset the tracing. As for the fence, yes, every blade will drift slightly differently, so you’ll want to check it with a trial cut and adjust for the drift if each blade. Scott
I went through these steps, it didn’t work
What did it do? How did the cut proceed? What can you tell me about your blade? I believe we can get there! Scott
This is an older cast iron table bandsaw, just like the one in your video. The tires were recently replaced. I'm using a 5/8" re-saw blade. After a few attempts, I adjusted the guides, positioned them close to the blade gullets. I believe I followed your instructions.
@@giljusino Ok, that helps. So you are using your miter gauge as a fence, correct? And you adjusted it to match the drift of the blade?
@@MyGrowthRings yes, I used the miter gauge, exactly as you did in the video. First I made the hand rip cut, drew the drift lines on the table. Adjusted the mitre gauge. Then tried to make thin re saw cuts. It was a total failure.
After watching your other bandsaw videos I learned a few adjustments on my bandsaw were out of spec. I readjusted the rollers/alinements. Then I went back through the steps in this video. My outcome was better, but not perfect yet……thanks for the valuable information you are passing to those of us lucky enough to stumble upon an old Shopsmith!