This is a good technique but you lapped your fold the wrong way. Go under with the fold next time so it sheds water correctly. Less chance of trapping water under your bend
That’s pretty slick My house has T1-11 siding and I’m not sure how the step flashing works since it goes behind it but this kick out helps me. I see I currently just had a small kick out flashing to bump out the flashing behind the wall to the front of the T1-11
Cancel that. I rewatched and seen its just a slight press not a cut. Yours is definitely a better way than mine. I always cut it and folded it but had to use 2 pieces to cover my cut
He did not cut the flashing there, only make an indent. If you see daylight through it after doing that, at a minimum, you must put some sealant in the corner. Better yet, start over.
plus, you didn't counter-flash over the kickout behind the siding. So any water that gets behind the siding, will get behind the kickout too, no? I get that it will pass the inspection, but what is the point on a re-roof with existing siding? I just finished a roof and the inspector wants to see one of these. Don't think the customer is gonna be too thrilled with me cutting into their siding and the look of the kickout either.
Do the tin shingle run against the stucco. Chalk a line 3 1/2 or 5 1/2 above shingle surface depending on preference against stucco along tin run. Cut even groove into stucco at least a 1/2 inch deep. Install 1/2 5 or 3 counter flashing into groove. Caulk groove line.
The roofer doesn’t have the same options with stucco as there are with either vinyl or aluminum siding. If the kickout wasn’t in place before the stucco was installed, it’s hard to get it under the stucco.
Or cut 3'' or 4'' up the stucco, ice and water, step flash then put a trim pvc, hardee etc where you cut the stucco. Either that or install a throughwall flashing system then repair the stucco
If you have to you can. You can also hide your nail with the next tin if you want. The main problem I see with tin runs is when shingles are butted to wall instead of leaving a slight water way along it.
You have to nail the step flashing down. Just not in the lower half. Put two nails in the top furthest corner from the wall and the pressure from the nails should hold it down tight to the shingle below it. Nailing in the top corner prevents a nail being exposed or even being able to come in contact with water if you're step flashing is in the right spot
This is a good technique but you lapped your fold the wrong way. Go under with the fold next time so it sheds water correctly. Less chance of trapping water under your bend
Great video. Nice to see an actual roofer. "Roofers" around here don't bother installing kick outs = problems.
That’s pretty slick
My house has T1-11 siding and I’m not sure how the step flashing works since it goes behind it but this kick out helps me. I see I currently just had a small kick out flashing to bump out the flashing behind the wall to the front of the T1-11
It does the job but his fold is done the wrong way, it should be under the flashing so there's no seam.
when you cut the siding are you potentially introducing another place water can get in?
Versus the gallons that will intrude without out that kickout? Lesser of the two evils and easily sealed.
@@kansascityshuffle8526 Not sure about that, this is an old home that had no kickout. and was gallons of rain going behind the siding all those years?
@@scottdowney4318 yes likely
Professional. I do it another way. When you say dimple, is that a very small cut? Or just a slight pressing of the metal
Cancel that. I rewatched and seen its just a slight press not a cut. Yours is definitely a better way than mine. I always cut it and folded it but had to use 2 pieces to cover my cut
You certainly trust yourself on a ladder more than I do, all of that moving around is freaking me out. 😂😂
2:38
Would you cut a slit into T1-11?
When you cut the notch for dimple does it leak at that point?
He did not cut the flashing there, only make an indent. If you see daylight through it after doing that, at a minimum, you must put some sealant in the corner. Better yet, start over.
What is the size of the piece of flashing?
plus, you didn't counter-flash over the kickout behind the siding. So any water that gets behind the siding, will get behind the kickout too, no? I get that it will pass the inspection, but what is the point on a re-roof with existing siding? I just finished a roof and the inspector wants to see one of these. Don't think the customer is gonna be too thrilled with me cutting into their siding and the look of the kickout either.
Bulk water running off the roof will miss the corner of the gutter.
NIce! Thank you! Your underlayment is mineral roll?
Nope that is a sand faced ice and water shield.
I don't know anything about roofing... however, is this were I tell you everything you did wrong?
Thanks. This is very helpful.
How is this tackled with stucco siding after the roof has been redone by a shoddy roofer?
Do the tin shingle run against the stucco. Chalk a line 3 1/2 or 5 1/2 above shingle surface depending on preference against stucco along tin run. Cut even groove into stucco at least a 1/2 inch deep. Install 1/2 5 or 3 counter flashing into groove. Caulk groove line.
The roofer doesn’t have the same options with stucco as there are with either vinyl or aluminum siding. If the kickout wasn’t in place before the stucco was installed, it’s hard to get it under the stucco.
Or cut 3'' or 4'' up the stucco, ice and water, step flash then put a trim pvc, hardee etc where you cut the stucco. Either that or install a throughwall flashing system then repair the stucco
That’s awesome. Thank you for sharing!
Where’s the Z Bar? I guess you guys don’t use any.
Never nail directly into step flashing people
If you have to you can. You can also hide your nail with the next tin if you want. The main problem I see with tin runs is when shingles are butted to wall instead of leaving a slight water way along it.
You have to nail the step flashing down. Just not in the lower half. Put two nails in the top furthest corner from the wall and the pressure from the nails should hold it down tight to the shingle below it.
Nailing in the top corner prevents a nail being exposed or even being able to come in contact with water if you're step flashing is in the right spot
I only saw four nails going into the shingle, when six nails is the “gold standard”.
that first nail was a pop up failed
video 3:34
@@georgeestes4140I zoomed in, the head was definitely on an angle and not seated.
Cant see because of words in way
There are way easier ways to make these kick outs
Like?
Understanding the Importance of Flashing in EIFS Stucco Applications
ruclips.net/video/nLMIr7C7Lmc/видео.html