First 390 Engine Start in 20 Years
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- We start the engine in the Galaxie for the first time in 20 years.
Episode 159 Manic Mechanic
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Jford@autorestomod.com
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Back when I was a kid. One of the guys that I went to church with his Dad was a mechanic at J.C.Penny's so yeah it's been a minute anyway he said when you put plugs in get a piece of rubber hose about two or three inches long and put it on the plug where the spark plug wire goes and it makes it a lot easier to install the plug. That might be old news for us old timers but the young ones might not know it. Yes more 390 stuff please.
Yeah, my dad taught me that trick back in the day. The kids today would call that a “hack”
Good tip as always a good tip.
@@AutoRestoMod I just found out that we have lost another Mustang aftermarket supplier. After 30 years in business Missouri Mustang has closed it's doors. Sad to see them go.
@@lilorbielilorbie2496 SEMO Mustang in Cape Girardeau? The Sneathen brothers could find or have in stock everything you could think of. Was it them? I really hope not. I built a half dozen 5 figure cars with their help!
@@fenatic7484 No. I've never heard of SEMO Mustang. The company I was talking about was in Webb City MO. They were called Missouri Mustang. Do the people you talked about have a web site.?
“Make it run” is one of my favorite games. It’s got to be one of the most satisfying things in the world
It does rank right up there with a lot of things car wise.
I have a 73 F250 with a 390 . I had the points replaced with a distributor kit called the Igniter 2 . Its been 15 years with the same distributor and the truck starts right up every time.
Good to hear her run at least some. Would love to see her running with a good tune.
We're hoping for that.
I think the "I" terminal on the starter solenoid is where a wire attaches to route full 12 volts to the coil bypassing the resistor wire in the harness for starting (It is NOT where 12 volt battery power is attached). After the engine starts and the key is released to the "Run" position the "I" wire is de-energized and ignition power is provided from the ignition switch through the resistor wire.
Get that baby tuned up and running!
We're on it.
What do you mean you didn't think it would start, ever?!?! 😉 IT'S A FORD!
Lol, the passenger bank worried...and still worries me.
Yes my favorite car work on it all the time thanks.
Let's hope I don't have to work on it all the time. But yes we will be doing a good bit of Galaxie on the show.
Get that thing tuned up.
Went through this a couple years ago helping my nephew with his f100
We'll shoot it.
Back off that timing a smidgen! That delay when you first turn the key could be indicative of it being too advanced.
I was going to say the same thing.Timing to fast .
Yes. I was just seeking start and run.
Definitely would like to see the
FE strokin’ bore!!! 🏁😉👍
On it!
The 70s 360/390 blocks are really good they have the 3 rib main webs like the 427 and 428, and a 3.98/4.125/4.25 stroker kits are available for even just a .030 over 390, 4.08x 4.25 yields a 445 cube engine with 6.7 BBC rods that use 2.2 journals and reduce friction. Even the 390 bored .030 over is easily cammed up to 410 hp/ 445 ft lbs.
Love to see the tuning video on her.. Great as always..
Thanks!
Finally, you fuel, and you gave fire and that which we desire !!!!!! Yes, do the next videos to get it tuned and running as best it can, with major intervention….. We’re all living vicariously through you pal…,
We probably will not go into this engine that way. The oiling issue I saw up top really does concern me
Jeff, don't phone it in, dial it in! Make it purr like Shop Cat 🐈
We'll do!
Gapping blades with the writing still on them. Wow!
I'm not sure how that has actually maintained the lettering to be honest with you. I have not been kind to that gapping set at all.
@@AutoRestoMod still use my dads from the 70s. We just know the sizes as long as no one breaks a blade out.
Yes! Tune it! I love your channel and what you guys are doing. Thank you to all the cast and crew!
Our pleasure!
I use long plug boots from my ‘87 Grand Nat’l to install plugs loose and remove them once cracked loose on my 70 Z/28. I wish GM cars had the distributor in the front. What a PITA in the rear.
Agreed!
Awesome videos !
Worse thing you can do is spray starting fluid in an old dry cylinder. Unless you want scratches on the bores.
Fill the carb bowls with fuel. Preferably 2 stroke oil mix added to aid in lubricating the cylinder walls.
I have a spray bottle filled with regular gas and a couple of ounces TC-W3 oil. When the cars sit for just two weeks it is a lot easier to spray some of this down the carbs and have the engines start immediately rather than crank and hit the accelerator pedal over and over.
We put Marvel Mystery in, pulled up oil pressure with a drill, ran the starter...if there is oil (and there is) we have it taken care of. That was shown when we started the process.
I miss the days working on my 61 Comet....
Those cars are definitely a simpler process for sure!
Tune it and make it run decent! I'm working on my 68 f100 with a 360fe and this is the type of content I like!
We will.
Yes! Would like to see you do the tune on it. Love the content!
Thanks!
@@AutoRestoMod 390s and taking 70s 360s and 390s from the MCC foundry they would have the reversed 105 where the 352 is on older stuff. All of those 70s blocks have a 3rd rib in the main webbing, like the 428 CJ block had. But it is important to sonic test the block because nearly all got the thick welded mains and Nodular iron caps, they usually didn’t get the 406/428 bore cores. Some did , you can test a block to see if it is thick but with stroker kits any FE block is a good one. Put a 4.08 bore that’s .030?over on the shake table to stress relieve it, and put a 410 Mercury crank or a station wagon 410/428 crank in and you have a 416 that with a moderate hydraulic roller and an Edelbrock intake, 2.09/1.65 valves in your stock heads with headers and bang 425 hp 465 ft lbs of tq and it just goes up. Many of these blocks are swinging a 4.25 crank with a 4.125 bore after a good sonic for a 6400 rpm 454ci with Trick Flow heads hitting 650 hp, from a well done 360 block. I have been planning a 4.13x 4.25 at 455.48 that will do 6600 with my hyd roller from Bullet Cams when Harold Brookshire was around and it is ground with asymmetric exhaust lobes that snap open quickly and let down slower to help scavenging. 245@.050 .600 lift. 108 LSA 108 ICA 108 ECA straight up. The block checked out to have .160 thick walls between the bores .276 major thrust walls 230 minor thrust walls with little to no core shift at 4.13. I really want some Trick Flow heads! I have a PortOSonic that ran in Pro Stock while FE engines were legal.
just bought a 67 fairlane in same situation going to pick it up this saturday
Good luck that is one of my favorite cars.
The best of luck Chris! I hope that it has an FE in it. There are a lot of little sweet cheats that can take a doggy FE Fairlane and turn it into a vicious critter and it is less than you would suspect.
Yes! Is like to see you get'er tuned to run. That would be so rewarding!
It's coming.
I use an old plug boot to install the plugs. That allows me to get to the more difficult holes 😜
Good idea!
Yep I would love to see you tinker with this old girl that is awesome
Then tinker we will.
Very cool
Thanks!
I save a sparkplug boot to use when putting plugs in. Gives you a good grip and holds the plug. Can put an extension on it for really deep plug holes.
Nice tip!
Yes, make it run and drive with the OE setup to start!
On the way. If it's willing I am.
Did you chase all your plug threads with a thread chaser? Saves you from cross threading. 😦
Nope. Biggest problem I have with doing that is you're gonna get junk down inside of the cylinder because there's no way to pull that stuff back out.
If plug threads in ok using a extension or rubber hose, chasing isn't necessary. In over 55 years of vehicle ownership, I don't remember chasing plug threads.
@@tombryant1104 We only chased the threads when it was an old engine like theirs and the spark plugs were hard to get out and a little rusty, I didn't want to grind in the rust and have the spark plug seize going in. I've seen that happen a few times.
@@tombryant1104 as long as the tapered seat of the plug hole is really clean and the plug can ground it is good Usually all I do is blow away as much loose stuff away, then spray the seats with red can brakleen and wipe around with a piece of Scotch brute and wipe it outward with a rag and spray the brakcleen and wipe it again it will usually shine. A light shot of WD or electrical contact cleaner to prevent flash rust then a tiny bit of anti sieze and I mean just a little in the plug thread and no more then tighten them until you feel good contact with the seat and flex your wrist.
A big thing is routing 7-8 so they aren’t side by side. I even shield the wires 8 is the one to worry about if it hits early you can bend a rod hole a piston. I shield them and run 8 out of the loom or at 5s spot and 5 at the back notch on the valve cover and even zip tie it to another wire separating from 7 and off the header. Important! I have pulled the drivers side head to see 8 damaged and oiling. Many times.
Please please !! do a video on tuning a Holley advenger get carb!!!!!!!!!!!
We've done it. ruclips.net/video/_Y5yXikrHLg/видео.html
Yes please, I’d love to see how to tune it. I have a ‘66 F250 from my uncle and he swapped a 390 into it.
Right on!
Wish I would have seen this video 6 months ago.
Me too. Lol
thats a great idea with your temp fuel tank for the test, I may have to upgrade my F100 to that, tank has been removed, it actually is a 390 as well
Yeah we always run a temp tank when we're testing.
Hi Jeff!! So happy for you and the 390 fe! She lives to see another day. IMO, the Fe line are pretty much bullet proof. She will make a fine daily driver or cruiser. Oh, when you talked of spark plugs gaps for points vs electronic ignitions, does that hold true for my 460 BBF with MSD? What would I run my gaps at? .045? Thanks and blessings from Motown/Dearborn.
Yes. But do check the MSD site for their recommendations on gap.
@@AutoRestoMod Thanks Jeff, I will check MSD site, I had no idea gaps were different, but thanks to you I do now.
@@robertclymer6948 I made my FE ignition for my 65 Galaxie with a .020 over390. I built a truck 360 Duraspark distributor and recurved it. It has the 77 400 pickup coil I canniballized from a junkyard. It is a Ford piece. The 360 distributor has the 10L 15L reluctor, I set it to 10L which is 20 degrees crank advance, and my engine likes 37, so I put 925D MR Gasket springs to have all of the centrifugal advance , total by 2800 rpms and vacuum advance blocked . With a 2800-3000 stall speed and 4.33 gears with a Spartan locker and an extra cross. pin. I prefer not detonating to worrying whether the mileage is 6 or 6.25. Anyway the pickup is wired to a 4 pin circle track module mounted on a finned aluminum heat sink as does the 96 F150 300 I6 coil that is mounted on a 351 W heat sink from another 96 F150 with a dead coil. I mounted them both behind the headlight bucket in the cool air stream with solid state Ford voltage regulator that allows 15V to the coil and I use the equivalent of the Old BF32 great 9 mm plug wires with 7-8 well separated to prevent crossfire. I actually used the shielding from a Gibson SG switch and tone pot cavity that I shaped into a ribbon that I put between the wires at the cap and any where that the wires might feed it. You can hook up an AM radio and listen for squeal while it is running like they do between stations and the impedance at the running coil never catches a signal or waveform that would indicate cross fire. It is dead reliable! And it burns this dreck we call gas. I wish I had a barrel of MTBE to add to my fuel cell in the trunk.
My guess its way advance. Cut timing a couple of degrees and it might clean out a little.
I was just moving the distributor until it popped off. We'll set up the timing in the tune video.
Be more irresponsible. Get in it and drive down the road. Did that in a gto with a buddy and his brother. Got it running and got so excited just hopped in and flew down the road with one t3 headlight burning dim and zero brakes. It was a 4 speed so that helped some but it was one hell of a ride! Galaxie dust! Haha.
Hahahahaha. God saw fit to give me three flat tires, a four speed with missing shifter parts and a stuck clutch. He knows me pretty well.
The glory of single chamber MC. 😂
It does sound like the ignition is advanced or the firing order could be off. It sounds like it may have the distributor 180 out. Or as I have come across with my Holley carbs is if they sit long the gaskets shrink. I have a tried and true Edelbrock carb that can sit forever and fire right up. I hope that it fires right up, it sounds like it has great compression!
We were swinging the distributor to get fire, so when it did hit I stopped. All I was looking for was proof of life. I have some issues that will be addressed in the next series on trying to tune it.
It sounds like it has good compression!
My first car crush was the 1963 Galaxie 2 dr htt. They are really nicely proportioned! They just have that trim , tough look, lean and ready. I have an old friend who had a black lightweight with a 427 HR with a bubble hood and 4 speed and you could put some tire back there. You have not felt “ what the hell do I grab to hang on to?” Until a 427 HR with two 660 center squirter Holleys suck all the air out of your environment and then kaboom you are doing wang wang wang and realize that there is no air to breathe and the driver mercifully let’s off at 140 mph and allows you to catch your breath. 😂. Have the Hellcats, C7 Vettes, a true rush comes from a car that hits so hard your diaphragm stops is The Ride! A 631/2 Galaxie Fastback stuffed with a 700 hp 2x4 427 HR that shifts at 9000 rpms. No roll bar , barely a lap belt and just a bare knuckle antediluvian “Motor”
Careful now, when you throw things over your shoulder you have a metal building now.
Lol I didn't even think about that when I did it.. Very valid point that building is probably worth more than I am right now 🤣.
@@AutoRestoMod Open up the solenoid and show people what's inside.
I have a 390 FE rebuilt in my 61 Thunderbird. Can you suggest a thermostat temperature. There is a 185 in it now, seems like it should be cooler. Car runs around 200 with re cored radiator and a electric fan add on. Thanks
If I’m running a pertronix module and coil what should the gap be .
If your current gap is .035 then go with .040. When I had the Crane XR-i with a MSD 6AL I went from .035 to .040 b/c when I tried .045 the engine would hesitate at 3,000 rpm and higher. I got 15 yrs out of my Pertronix and 15 out of Crane before the heat caused issues like breaking down at 5,000 rpm. So I’m back with points with my MSD box and am trying .035 rather than .040 on my spark plugs. If your gap is too large then all your doing is putting a lot of stress on the ignition system which isn’t good.
Good plan there!
Please do get running and tested and tuned so you can then determine if the tranny is functional!
We are probably going to have to pull the transmission because it looks like the clutch is locked to the flywheel. So theoretically a Borg Warner T10 rebuild video may be in the future lol.
If it is a 352 it will be an FX Cruisomatic, in D it takes off in 2nd unless you floor it. If you want to take off in L you have to put in green dot range. A 390 has the MX and works the same way. On manuals the clutch disc can get stuck to the flywheel. 3,finger clutches have 5/16 bolts be careful to avoid breaking any.
Not a top loader?
@@patkirlin9614 The TopLoader didn’t show up in numbers until 65, The 63 and 64 usually had a T-10, the race cars got top loaders , I believe stuff like the T-Bolts got the Top Loader first in 64 and the 390s in 65.
Request.
Carb tuning (AFB preferred) with bypass fuel filter (Wix 33040 or 1 type). I think a regulator would NOT be needed, but these AFBs can be sensitive to pressures, sometimes even lower than 6 psi. Mechanical pumps should not over power the needle, but....
Is an adjustable fuel regulator still recommended? Mild build street car.
I'll be honest to say I've never dealt with a Carter AFB. Decent carburetor though. I would say that most carburetors on the market or at about 6PSI and stock configuration. Only when you start getting into large fuel consumption for Drag Racing or whatever would you want a higher PSI pump.
@@AutoRestoMod Carter/Edelbrock's are finicky with pressure. I've got a friend running ~4 psi. Stock mechanical pump was too much. I'm thinking of using the bypass type filter (with orifice) to 1) relieve pressure and 2) eliminate 90% issues of heat soak. Personally never done this, and your a niche within a niche so was hoping you have.
I use one because of heat soak. My system is all electric and I have a bypass regulator that runs hot fuel to the cell and keeps it circulating to cool it.
I would like to see it run.
Me too. I'm trying for that today.
you're not getting the level of exhaust out the right side of the engine as you are on the left, yes I would like to see more of this 390
Yeah we saw that and mentioned it in the video.
Jesus, that distributor looks rough.
What will the gap be if I’m running pertronix module and coil? What is a good plug to use the motor is stock other than headers and a four barrel carb.
1:20 ish Electronic is .045 for the plug. Pertronix, at least mine, no gap.
Plugs on my old, warmed engines, is stock
Rule of thumb is A 45 gap which is stock on the new plugs. But I would also recommend to go out and look at the Pertonix site to see what they say. I would stay with the stock heat range on the plug usually like an Autolite 45 I believe. Spark plugs are kind of like Motorola everybody has an opinion lol. I usually don't go crazy with plugs I'll go with a copper core plug or plug on an old car even with electronic Ignition.
ALWAYS !!....fill your pants pockets with mashed potatoes before starting the engine....not sure why, just do it.... Russ
A point three five gap? Yeah I know a slip of tongue... I guess you didn't hear me screaming CLEAN the points!!! Watching on 55" screen, obvious they were corroded. The type with nylon rubbing block were junk when new. Had those melt and close gap.
I'd run a compression test, cranking rhythm seems to vary somewhat. If valves have corrosion, may have a weak hole. Could clear up in 5-10 minutes run time.
Lol had to have some drama bro! 🤣 compression test has been run, we'll talk all of that in the tuning video. And yes the plastic blocks suck.
Get tuned she wants to run
That's my hope. My fear is some of the things I'm finding post video lol.
Dang roosters
Horrifying we have gotten to where almost don't hear him anymore.. Not that he doesn't crow, only that I don't pay any attention to it.
@@AutoRestoMod we have no less than 4 to contend with at the house.
Ok.. wait. I thought I could run a wire from coil to the battery. Am I wrong?
No
Would that happen to be a mirror 105 block?
IF that's the original engine, no. However, I see some blue on it so it may have been swapped. I missed if Jeff mentioned what engine that is or where it came from if not stock for that car.
The engine appears to be a 390 4V from a 66 Galaxie...at least the top end indicates that. We'll do a video on what we have next.
@@AutoRestoMod OK, thanks. If C6-R heads, then best standard production castings for that year. In any case, David, not a mirror block. Those are 70's castings.
@@413x398 I think I know you, Bill Ballinger, is the 428 still breaking hearts?
@@fenatic7484 I am not Bill Ballinger. He does know stuff, but I have waaaay more background. He is still, as far as I know, on the old N54 forum.
Always one bad cylinder on these old beasts.
Hello