For thick plywood, the best saw blade option is 110/115 mm 24 teeth. For a 200 watt motor, you need two power supplies of 100 watts at 24 volts. Their outputs are connected in series. But for a power reserve, you can use two blocks of 150 watts. Hand Adjusting Nuts (3D printer) - ruclips.net/video/1TeDyTxZ4cg/видео.html Buy parts for mini circular table saw: Engine 48V 200W - ali.ski/sP1XQm Engine 48V 200~800W - ali.ski/nUzC- Power unit 24V 60~500W - ali.ski/noB0U Linear bearing LM8LUU - ali.ski/FdcTy Shafts 10mm, 8mm - ali.ski/tqhXI XL Timing Belt (I used 90XL) Pitch 5.08 mm, width 10 mm - ali.ski/mbvqo Timing Pulley 10T XL (bore 8mm, width 11mm) - ali.ski/9YO1As Timing Pulley 20T XL (bore 10mm, width 11mm) - ali.ski/14KlP Bearings 10 mm with bracket - ali.ski/5fyLxs Table Saw Drill Power Spindle - ali.ski/kEbFD Thermistor NTC 5D-20 - ali.ski/lUrs8y Relays SRD - ali.ski/z3iF9 Circular saw blades 85/110/125 mm - ali.ski/RADIQ Sealing gaskets for 16 mm - ali.ski/68d559 Saw blade for plastic 100 x 16 mm - ali.ski/YFhESB
Hello Stanislav! I'm really interested in your version and I would like to know your opinion on whether you think DC 775 (24V) or this spindle motor is stronger.
The 775 motor has 50 watts, with a maximum of 100 watts. In the end, power is determined by size. I decided to make a mini saw so that it would be reliable and useful, and not show it once on RUclips. But it’s quite a lot of work and it’s stupid to take the cheapest engine and make a small body. I made an average both in power and in size between a large saw and those made from 775. Later, after publishing the video, I replaced the 200 W motor with a 300 W motor (I bought two at once), and threw away the elevator. Without a lift, the mechanism is much stiffer, and there are many sizes of saw blades, they have different diameters (from 85 in increments of 5-10 mm), they cost many times less than large ones, and are easier to change as needed. With a 300-watt motor for large cuts I use a high-quality "S&R" disc 160 mm and can now cut wood 50-60mm thick pretty easy, and hard wood at that. I tried cutting hornbeam, oak, and cherry. A good saw blade differs from a bad one because it does not smoke, does not clog, and leaves a clear cut without torn edges. This "S&R" 160mm blade cuts easier and cleaner than any Chinese small 100-125mm blade (regardless of wood thickness and tooth size). In general, select engine power based on your tasks. If you want to cut electronics boards, small plastics, plywood 4-6 mm, 1-2 mm aluminum, then the 775 and a machine that fits in a desk drawer are enough. If your tasks are a little more serious, then choose a more powerful engine and make a larger machine, based on the conditions of your workshop. You can choose here - aliexpress.com/item/4001297014718.html The motors are 48 volt, so use two 24 volt power supplies. Connect two 24 Volt outputs in series - you have 48 Volts. If the motor is 200 W, you need two power supplies with a minimum of 100 W each (more powerful ones are possible). If the motor is 300 W - two power supplies of 150 W each. It is very advisable to make a soft start (diagram in the video), without this there will be startup problems. Well, for larger jobs, I would buy a ready-made large saw and modify it. To do this from scratch means not to value your time. And, by the way, making it from scratch will most likely cost more. I don't have a large workshop, so I made it this size. I wish you success!
Hm, my previous answer disappeared :/ so again... First of all, thank you for your detailed answer!! As you suggested, I'll buy the 300W motor instead 200W. And I definetly will use a soft starter! Can you link me an "S&R" saw blade, Im not sure what you think you about. Im thinking about to buy an CMT ITK Ultra Thin-Kerf saw blade with ~150mm diameter, its medium quality, in my opinion. Power supply: my choice is an 48v/480W AC/DC If you dont mind I'd have a another question: I'd like to make a small/hobby electric pottery wheel to my daughters. I wonder this motor is good for this project, too? I think I need a gearbox/reducer (250-300rpm) and a PWM speed controll to keep high torque on low speed. In my opinion it would be work, but Im not sure. And I can not find a gearbox/reducer for this type of motor (or my search method is wrong). If you have any advice I'd really appriciate it!
@@mahoo80 Your choice is correct - saw blade, motor, power. Here is the link to my disk - imperia.md/ru/aksessuary/pilnyye-diski/otreznyye-diski-135-190mm/sr-meister-sprinter.html I was afraid that 12 teeth would give very ragged edges, but the edges of the wood are very clean due to the special shape of the teeth - FZ/ATB. When the teeth are small, the cut is more difficult, keep this in mind when choosing discs. Small teeth are good for aluminum; there are special discs. If the "S&R Meister Sprinter" disc is not available, look for another well-known brand with similar teeth. About the potter's wheel. I think you can find a motor with a 300 rpm gearbox on aliexpress nl.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-motor-with-gearbox-300-rpm.html But I don't know how much power is required, I've never practiced pottery. It’s better to ask practitioners about power. Only the gearbox will give you high torque; the PWM controller still only changes the voltage. Therefore, check with the power, and look for a suitable one on Aliexpress. If the motor is no more than 100-200 watts and up to 35 volts, then you can use such a DC>DC voltage converter - aliexpress.com/item/32828367209.html For the regulator, buy a variable resistor (I think it’s 10 kOhm, check) and replace the one on the board - aliexpress.com/item/1005005180264615.html Potentiometer caps - nl.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-potentiometer-caps.html
Love your content - as one who has studied a bit of Russian, I will maybe say that "My version" would have maybe been better in the title than "my option"? Or, you even could have used "my variant" - which is close to how you would normally phrase it in Russian? That's still legit in English as well. 👍
In Russian, both options are also possible, although here "variant" is more commonly used. I intentionally used "version", it's kind of a bit of a joke, like the version of the film adaptation of the book. 😉
@@grain-diose yes, exactly, but the translator put "option" instead of "version" - look at the English in your title without the translator and you'll see what I mean. You wanted the English word "Version" and it was transformed into "option" but the translator. Minor point, just wanted to point it out!! Have a great evening!!
At 3:15 this is how people lose fingers. The blade only needs to grab your workpiece once and it will 100% fling the workpiece into your chest and pull your fingers into the blade. People may think 'Well that are the chances of that happening!?'. Just look for videos of circular saw accidents. Literally anything you don't think of can and will happen. Also, please make a pushing tool with a hook on it, the idea to use friction is nice but it's dangerous as well.
Thanks for the note, it will be useful for other newbies. But I know what safety precautions are and I know when I violate it and when you realize that you are violating, you do it accordingly. I don't forget for a second that it's dangerous. At the indicated moment, it was only a test and look at it again and how and at what distance I hold my fingers. I just easily grab the plywood and especially look at the end of the cut - I immediately parted the two parts, because I was afraid of what you wrote about. That is, in advance, I slightly pulled my hands in opposite directions. And I’ll also say that in the near future I will make a universal safe pusher like GRR-RIPPER 3D and just make a video about it.
Friends, if you are interested in the development of my channel, you can support it here - buymeacoffee.com/graindiose
Gran trabajo, saludos.
Замечательно получилось, хотя мне кажется линейные подшипники это перебор, там фторопластовых или полиациталиевых втулок было бы вполне достаточно.
Оказалось еще проще: можно было распечатать цельный, вместо того, чтобы покупать и вклеивать - ruclips.net/video/fin93b5cuE4/видео.html
For thick plywood, the best saw blade option is 110/115 mm 24 teeth.
For a 200 watt motor, you need two power supplies of 100 watts at 24 volts. Their outputs are connected in series. But for a power reserve, you can use two blocks of 150 watts.
Hand Adjusting Nuts (3D printer) - ruclips.net/video/1TeDyTxZ4cg/видео.html
Buy parts for mini circular table saw:
Engine 48V 200W - ali.ski/sP1XQm
Engine 48V 200~800W - ali.ski/nUzC-
Power unit 24V 60~500W - ali.ski/noB0U
Linear bearing LM8LUU - ali.ski/FdcTy
Shafts 10mm, 8mm - ali.ski/tqhXI
XL Timing Belt (I used 90XL) Pitch 5.08 mm, width 10 mm - ali.ski/mbvqo
Timing Pulley 10T XL (bore 8mm, width 11mm) - ali.ski/9YO1As
Timing Pulley 20T XL (bore 10mm, width 11mm) - ali.ski/14KlP
Bearings 10 mm with bracket - ali.ski/5fyLxs
Table Saw Drill Power Spindle - ali.ski/kEbFD
Thermistor NTC 5D-20 - ali.ski/lUrs8y
Relays SRD - ali.ski/z3iF9
Circular saw blades 85/110/125 mm - ali.ski/RADIQ
Sealing gaskets for 16 mm - ali.ski/68d559
Saw blade for plastic 100 x 16 mm - ali.ski/YFhESB
Hello Stanislav! I'm really interested in your version and I would like to know your opinion on whether you think DC 775 (24V) or this spindle motor is stronger.
The 775 motor has 50 watts, with a maximum of 100 watts. In the end, power is determined by size.
I decided to make a mini saw so that it would be reliable and useful, and not show it once on RUclips. But it’s quite a lot of work and it’s stupid to take the cheapest engine and make a small body. I made an average both in power and in size between a large saw and those made from 775.
Later, after publishing the video, I replaced the 200 W motor with a 300 W motor (I bought two at once), and threw away the elevator. Without a lift, the mechanism is much stiffer, and there are many sizes of saw blades, they have different diameters (from 85 in increments of 5-10 mm), they cost many times less than large ones, and are easier to change as needed. With a 300-watt motor for large cuts I use a high-quality "S&R" disc 160 mm and can now cut wood 50-60mm thick pretty easy, and hard wood at that. I tried cutting hornbeam, oak, and cherry. A good saw blade differs from a bad one because it does not smoke, does not clog, and leaves a clear cut without torn edges. This "S&R" 160mm blade cuts easier and cleaner than any Chinese small 100-125mm blade (regardless of wood thickness and tooth size).
In general, select engine power based on your tasks. If you want to cut electronics boards, small plastics, plywood 4-6 mm, 1-2 mm aluminum, then the 775 and a machine that fits in a desk drawer are enough. If your tasks are a little more serious, then choose a more powerful engine and make a larger machine, based on the conditions of your workshop.
You can choose here - aliexpress.com/item/4001297014718.html
The motors are 48 volt, so use two 24 volt power supplies. Connect two 24 Volt outputs in series - you have 48 Volts. If the motor is 200 W, you need two power supplies with a minimum of 100 W each (more powerful ones are possible). If the motor is 300 W - two power supplies of 150 W each. It is very advisable to make a soft start (diagram in the video), without this there will be startup problems.
Well, for larger jobs, I would buy a ready-made large saw and modify it. To do this from scratch means not to value your time. And, by the way, making it from scratch will most likely cost more. I don't have a large workshop, so I made it this size. I wish you success!
Hm, my previous answer disappeared :/ so again...
First of all, thank you for your detailed answer!!
As you suggested, I'll buy the 300W motor instead 200W. And I definetly will use a soft starter!
Can you link me an "S&R" saw blade, Im not sure what you think you about.
Im thinking about to buy an CMT ITK Ultra Thin-Kerf saw blade with ~150mm diameter, its medium quality, in my opinion.
Power supply: my choice is an 48v/480W AC/DC
If you dont mind I'd have a another question:
I'd like to make a small/hobby electric pottery wheel to my daughters. I wonder this motor is good for this project, too? I think I need a gearbox/reducer (250-300rpm) and a PWM speed controll to keep high torque on low speed. In my opinion it would be work, but Im not sure. And I can not find a gearbox/reducer for this type of motor (or my search method is wrong).
If you have any advice I'd really appriciate it!
@@mahoo80 Your choice is correct - saw blade, motor, power. Here is the link to my disk - imperia.md/ru/aksessuary/pilnyye-diski/otreznyye-diski-135-190mm/sr-meister-sprinter.html
I was afraid that 12 teeth would give very ragged edges, but the edges of the wood are very clean due to the special shape of the teeth - FZ/ATB. When the teeth are small, the cut is more difficult, keep this in mind when choosing discs. Small teeth are good for aluminum; there are special discs. If the "S&R Meister Sprinter" disc is not available, look for another well-known brand with similar teeth.
About the potter's wheel. I think you can find a motor with a 300 rpm gearbox on aliexpress nl.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-motor-with-gearbox-300-rpm.html
But I don't know how much power is required, I've never practiced pottery. It’s better to ask practitioners about power. Only the gearbox will give you high torque; the PWM controller still only changes the voltage. Therefore, check with the power, and look for a suitable one on Aliexpress.
If the motor is no more than 100-200 watts and up to 35 volts, then you can use such a DC>DC voltage converter - aliexpress.com/item/32828367209.html
For the regulator, buy a variable resistor (I think it’s 10 kOhm, check) and replace the one on the board - aliexpress.com/item/1005005180264615.html
Potentiometer caps - nl.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-potentiometer-caps.html
Thank you very much, Stanislav!! ...you shared your opinion and experience.
@@mahoo80 I wish you success in your creativity!
The sawblade seems to be spinning in the wrong direction. Not in every shot. Might just be camera trickery.
This is a camera trickery. In the opposite direction, the disk simply will not cut and will smoke.
@@grain-diose This is a very awesome build. Great job!
Boa tarde, muito trabalho, mas bem feito. Estou inscrito no teu canal já muitos anos, parabéns.
Good afternoon, a lot of work, but well done. I've been subscribed to your channel for many years, congratulations.
Love your content - as one who has studied a bit of Russian, I will maybe say that "My version" would have maybe been better in the title than "my option"? Or, you even could have used "my variant" - which is close to how you would normally phrase it in Russian? That's still legit in English as well. 👍
In Russian, both options are also possible, although here "variant" is more commonly used. I intentionally used "version", it's kind of a bit of a joke, like the version of the film adaptation of the book. 😉
@@grain-diose yes, exactly, but the translator put "option" instead of "version" - look at the English in your title without the translator and you'll see what I mean. You wanted the English word "Version" and it was transformed into "option" but the translator. Minor point, just wanted to point it out!! Have a great evening!!
@@silverclouds3725 Thanks, I've corrected to "version". 👌
At 3:15 this is how people lose fingers. The blade only needs to grab your workpiece once and it will 100% fling the workpiece into your chest and pull your fingers into the blade. People may think 'Well that are the chances of that happening!?'. Just look for videos of circular saw accidents. Literally anything you don't think of can and will happen.
Also, please make a pushing tool with a hook on it, the idea to use friction is nice but it's dangerous as well.
Thanks for the note, it will be useful for other newbies. But I know what safety precautions are and I know when I violate it and when you realize that you are violating, you do it accordingly. I don't forget for a second that it's dangerous. At the indicated moment, it was only a test and look at it again and how and at what distance I hold my fingers. I just easily grab the plywood and especially look at the end of the cut - I immediately parted the two parts, because I was afraid of what you wrote about. That is, in advance, I slightly pulled my hands in opposite directions.
And I’ll also say that in the near future I will make a universal safe pusher like GRR-RIPPER 3D and just make a video about it.
Хороша робота! Рекомендую з епоксидною і іншими клеями працювати в рукавицях, бережіть своє здоров'я!
Дякую! При более длительных работах испольую перчатки, здесь же делалось быстро, после этого - растворитель 646, потом теплая вода с мылом.
Thanks for sharing
Bardzo ładne i przydatne
Verry good diy sir.ilike it!
Thanks :O)
جديد جدا نشتاق لك دائما
شكرًا لك!
@@grain-diose حقاً احبك💚