Great idea Tomislav. I made a jig to hold my Dremel tool at the correct angle so that I can sharpen my blades without removing them from the band saw. Also I mark the starting tooth with a sharpie so that I can do all of the teeth.
I do the same. Dremel or side-grinder. But no jig. Sometimes touch the inside with a Dremel chainsaw stone. Probably not necessary. Very quick and back to work. I get many miles from the Highland woodturner's blade. Not something for dovetails or tenons, but great for roughing out bowl blanks. Thanks again Tomislav. There are always too many ways for turners to waste money and time. This is a fairly well-known practice, but invaluable for your legion of appreciative beginners.
If I'd read the comments, I'd have not bothered with mine--I do the same, except freehand and I use a bit of tape instead of a Sharpie. I'll think about a jig--that would be better than freehand.
Thanks guys, dremel idea is great,I have a really bad one , and I usually sharpen them in batches, works for me.... Thats the beauty of our trade, so many ways to get the same results 🤗
Thanks Tomislav, I think I'll give this a go, I'm only a hobby turner so a new blade once or twice a year is no big deal, but it means less trips to the tool shop and a corresponding decrease in temptation for some of those lovely chisels.
Try it,see if that works for you, O bought last blades roughly 6months ago and sharpened them once apart from the one in this video, you extend a lot of life from these
I've tried this method after seeing Richard Raffan use it, and it works. However, before that I would leave my blade on the saw under tension (unplug the saw) and sharpen from the inside of the gullet using a rotary tool with a chainsaw sharpening stone. A diamond stone works best as you might expect. I had better control that way, and it's what I usually do now. I could be more consistent. You clearly have excellent motor skills and I imagine it makes much more sense for your workflow to collect some blades and do them all at once. I have been tempted to do what your teachers did--clamp the blade in a vise and sharpen--but I would rum a diamond sharpening stone over the teeth similar to what you do when you joint a handsaw for sharpening. That seems to me it would give a more consistent result than filing each tooth separately. The important message, though, that you are putting out to the many people who may not realize they can sharpen their blades is: yes, you can, and it is well worth it.
Indeed, I have heard so many times that they throw them away after they are dull, any method is good as long its getting a sharp blade. Thank you for watching and comment
I tried this and the result was very good. The process was a bit awkward because the teeth of the part of the blade hanging down kept snagging on the front of the cabinet under the grinder, but the blade cuts much better now.
Usually if you have narrow flute on gouge then that likes to jam, with plum wood its it will jam most of the gouges.... That is why I like using spindle gouges on outside....it doesn't Jam... But my first idea would be to polish a bit of flute, and ofcourse check that you don't have extremely narrow flute.
I'm a little confused as some other videos with alternating teeth show that the file is drawn alongside the curvature of the cutting edge of the blade. In both yours and Richard raffins it seems that you essentially apply the grinding edge to each tooth with the same orientation.
Pro sharpening shops will sharpen inside and top of the tooth,but its not nessesary, doing only top will get you sharp point or teeth, ofcourse if they are not damaged
Hi Tomislav. I told you recently that I have just bought a Sabre 350 bandsaw. I have been given a large piece of Mulberry that was felled about three weeks ago. If I set the guide to full height the piece of wood will just fit, do you think the saw will manage to cut such a large piece of wood?
I like to draw a line across the platform that is visible when your actually back-pint the blade on the wheel. Helps with accuracy when you are falling asleep from doing this.!!
This looks like a reasonable way to sharpen bandsaw blades. All the other methods I've seen before are so time consuming or tedious, it does not seem worth doing.
Richard Raffan would be disappointed - he would have made another 6 bowls from the wood you threw in the waste bin 🙂. Been meaning to try this - I have three or four old blades. I have the Sabre 350 and there are a lot of teeth to sharpen!
I too have sabre 350.... Ahh yes, I know,Maybe a few blanks could be from those ofcuts but as Richard like to say, I'm not that hungry😅... They will have another purpore ,to heat up the house a bit😉
In this video I see two injured fingers, was this from the sharpened blades? Because that's all the proof I need that this method works 😉 Nice simple straight forward video. I Just got myself an old Delta style bandsaw with a bunch of old blades. This could save me a lot, thanks!
This method works great but didn't cut me, those were from around the house work😉 You could save up blades,just be carefull that they are not bent or breaked. Thank you very much for watching
@@tomislavtomasicwoodturning Just a silly follow up question, the tool rest, have you got it set at any specific angle or are you using 90 degrees? (I hope what I'm saying makes sense) I would imagine if there's an angle that the blade might want to drift. Then again, I might be overthinking it.
@@gregsmith_za the platform is at some angle, but I just place a blade on top of the platform,on the edge, you could use platform , I find this easier, and don't sweat if the top of the tooth is at a tiny bit of angle... Not every teeth in my blade is perfectly straight across.... Hope this helps
Great idea Tomislav. I made a jig to hold my Dremel tool at the correct angle so that I can sharpen my blades without removing them from the band saw. Also I mark the starting tooth with a sharpie so that I can do all of the teeth.
I do the same. Dremel or side-grinder. But no jig. Sometimes touch the inside with a Dremel chainsaw stone. Probably not necessary. Very quick and back to work. I get many miles from the Highland woodturner's blade. Not something for dovetails or tenons, but great for roughing out bowl blanks.
Thanks again Tomislav. There are always too many ways for turners to waste money and time. This is a fairly well-known practice, but invaluable for your legion of appreciative beginners.
If I'd read the comments, I'd have not bothered with mine--I do the same, except freehand and I use a bit of tape instead of a Sharpie. I'll think about a jig--that would be better than freehand.
Thanks guys, dremel idea is great,I have a really bad one , and I usually sharpen them in batches, works for me.... Thats the beauty of our trade, so many ways to get the same results 🤗
I never imagined it could be that easy to sharpen my bandsaw blades. I wish I had kept the old blades. Great video. Thanks !
Thank you
That’s a great tip. That is better than throwing them away. I have a couple to tryout. Thank you.
Ohh ofcourse, don't throw them away😅
Thanks Tomislav, I think I'll give this a go, I'm only a hobby turner so a new blade once or twice a year is no big deal, but it means less trips to the tool shop and a corresponding decrease in temptation for some of those lovely chisels.
Try it,see if that works for you, O bought last blades roughly 6months ago and sharpened them once apart from the one in this video, you extend a lot of life from these
I've tried this method after seeing Richard Raffan use it, and it works. However, before that I would leave my blade on the saw under tension (unplug the saw) and sharpen from the inside of the gullet using a rotary tool with a chainsaw sharpening stone. A diamond stone works best as you might expect. I had better control that way, and it's what I usually do now. I could be more consistent. You clearly have excellent motor skills and I imagine it makes much more sense for your workflow to collect some blades and do them all at once. I have been tempted to do what your teachers did--clamp the blade in a vise and sharpen--but I would rum a diamond sharpening stone over the teeth similar to what you do when you joint a handsaw for sharpening. That seems to me it would give a more consistent result than filing each tooth separately. The important message, though, that you are putting out to the many people who may not realize they can sharpen their blades is: yes, you can, and it is well worth it.
Indeed, I have heard so many times that they throw them away after they are dull, any method is good as long its getting a sharp blade.
Thank you for watching and comment
Thanks for this Tomislav. Question: is the platform perpendicular to the wheel?
No , its at some angle, but I don't use platform,just the top of it.... I try to find top of the tooth inline with the wheel
Nice and simple. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for sharing this video. What angle is the platform set at?
Don't know😅, I use top of the platform, just so the top of the tooth is inline with the wheel....
I tried this and the result was very good. The process was a bit awkward because the teeth of the part of the blade hanging down kept snagging on the front of the cabinet under the grinder, but the blade cuts much better now.
Glad to hear that😀 thank you for watching
My blades get clogged when i cut wet bowl blanks. How do yo keep your blades clean when cutting green wood
Usually if you have narrow flute on gouge then that likes to jam, with plum wood its it will jam most of the gouges....
That is why I like using spindle gouges on outside....it doesn't Jam...
But my first idea would be to polish a bit of flute, and ofcourse check that you don't have extremely narrow flute.
Sorry, I meant how do you keep your bandsaw blades from clogging when cutting grean/wet bowl blanks.
@@davidfallow2455 I don't do anything, I use 3 tpi blades and they don't clogh, atleast for now 😉
Thanks.
I'm a little confused as some other videos with alternating teeth show that the file is drawn alongside the curvature of the cutting edge of the blade. In both yours and Richard raffins it seems that you essentially apply the grinding edge to each tooth with the same orientation.
Pro sharpening shops will sharpen inside and top of the tooth,but its not nessesary, doing only top will get you sharp point or teeth, ofcourse if they are not damaged
Hi Tomislav. I told you recently that I have just bought a Sabre 350 bandsaw. I have been given a large piece of Mulberry that was felled about three weeks ago. If I set the guide to full height the piece of wood will just fit, do you think the saw will manage to cut such a large piece of wood?
Hi Edward, I was resawing max height so many times, with sharp blade it should not be an issue..... Just take your time and be carefull.
I like to draw a line across the platform that is visible when your actually back-pint the blade on the wheel. Helps with accuracy when you are falling asleep from doing this.!!
If its bigger bandsaw,then yes it will take a while😅 stay awake👍
Great and useful info. Especially when your income is from SS here in the USA? And you have to watch every dollar and inflation? Thanks
Indeed 😀
This looks like a reasonable way to sharpen bandsaw blades. All the other methods I've seen before are so time consuming or tedious, it does not seem worth doing.
Its great way to sharpen, and easy
Great tip, thank you.
Richard Raffan would be disappointed - he would have made another 6 bowls from the wood you threw in the waste bin 🙂. Been meaning to try this - I have three or four old blades. I have the Sabre 350 and there are a lot of teeth to sharpen!
I too have sabre 350....
Ahh yes, I know,Maybe a few blanks could be from those ofcuts but as Richard like to say, I'm not that hungry😅...
They will have another purpore ,to heat up the house a bit😉
In this video I see two injured fingers, was this from the sharpened blades? Because that's all the proof I need that this method works 😉
Nice simple straight forward video. I Just got myself an old Delta style bandsaw with a bunch of old blades. This could save me a lot, thanks!
This method works great but didn't cut me, those were from around the house work😉
You could save up blades,just be carefull that they are not bent or breaked.
Thank you very much for watching
@@tomislavtomasicwoodturning Just a silly follow up question, the tool rest, have you got it set at any specific angle or are you using 90 degrees? (I hope what I'm saying makes sense)
I would imagine if there's an angle that the blade might want to drift. Then again, I might be overthinking it.
@@gregsmith_za the platform is at some angle, but I just place a blade on top of the platform,on the edge, you could use platform , I find this easier, and don't sweat if the top of the tooth is at a tiny bit of angle... Not every teeth in my blade is perfectly straight across....
Hope this helps
perfect thanks! @@tomislavtomasicwoodturning
To know when you get to thefirst tooth you sharpened add a piece of masking tape
Yes, another option, I just like go from weld to weld
You dont sharp inside (round part)
Nope, you dont have to if the teeth are not damaged.
"How I sharpen bandsaw blades..." while displaying a bandaged finger. Hmm
You know its sharp then😉
Those were not inflicted by blade,