Hello again, Before i go out and buy more bio media, so i can set mine up like yours to see if it's more efficient. I need to know what you have in your aquarium. ● Is it a heavy bio- load? ●Is it also heavily planted? My bedroom tank is 16.9g ( 64L) it is heavily stocked with fish and plants: Cardinal tetras, Black phantom tetras, Harlequin rasboras, 3 otocinclus, 6 cory's . Med- high light preasurised planted tank. I know you do use a medium sponge at the bottom and filter wool at the top.● Would your set up be more effective in handling the loose detritus and plant matter in my Aquarium?. ●Where do did you purchase the foam media with the bumps on it? ●Do you know the ppi of the sponge? Thank you
you all prolly dont give a shit but does anyone know a trick to log back into an Instagram account?? I was stupid lost my password. I would love any tips you can offer me!
@Elijah Roman thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and Im in the hacking process now. Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
Hello thanks for the instruction video. So about priming, you open the inlet valves then straight away open the outlet valves, to create a vacuum?. How do you know when it's full? Or when to plug it back on?. About O rings- I know about O ring for power head, but is there any sealing rings and where are they located? I was searching for replacement power head O ring when i came across 2 small black sealing rings for models 2113- 2117. If you look online here is the model no of O rings 7250600. Let me know where they located? ..is it in the valves?
Thank you! You can only prime through valves if you have water in them, that is if you haven't cleaned them. If they re empty then you can prime with a siphon pump, I have a video on it. Once it stops making noises it means that it is full and you can plug it in. My canister never had sealing rings and I bought it new. I only have O ring and in 5 years I have used the unit continuously I never replaced it as it is still as new, I only lubricate it occasionally. Unless your canister is really old, you probably won't need replacements.
I need your help deeply please, i bought used 250 filter but without o ring , can you please give me the details for the o ring size thickness diameter etc . Orginal o ring 12$ so i need to search for cheaper alternative o ring.
I’ve let the pump run mistakenly with no water pumping through before unplugging. Now after cleaning it’s not pumping , is that because there’s air in the hose ? Also , when done with cleaning you don’t have to fill the pump with water again? Or leave it empty like in your video ?
Yes, there is probably air left in pipes. As long as the pump is making noise it hasnt burned out. I don't fill it with water because there is some water in the pipes and it will prime fast, so there is no point.
IMO you should not touch the impeller unless you have to. Best to leave it. The slime that builds around the magnet is actually beneficial to keep it lubricated Just rinse water through the opening for the impeller, that is all.
Leaving impeller alone is one of the biggest misconceptions. Eheim itself recommends regularly cleaning impellers. Check any Eheim canister instructions. If you leave your impeller 'alone' it will clog with muck, which will affect the flow. If your impeller needs to be lubricated, you can use a lubricant rather than slime. These parts are not designed to be lubricated by slime!
@@tropicalfishhub my 17 year old Eheim 2217 and 20 year old 2260 disagrees with you about clogging up with muck. Flows just like day one. :) Anyway we can agree to disagree.
Omg, such a bad setup. Sponge at the bottom, courses then medium tgen the media rings. Then other media on top. Do not put a sponge on very bottom, you can put a few media rings to assist hold heavy dirt
Firstly, If you put your sponge on the bottom (even if you add some media under the sponge) and press it down with media, it will obviously loose its ability to absorb muck effectively because it will become pressed into your rings (which I'm assuming you want to use for mechanical filtration?!). Secondly, as I've said in the video, I'm using this canister for biological filtration, I do not need to keep there a collection of useless sponges or even more useless "rings". Adding a sponge on top of the basket is a time-proven method that has been used for years by many experienced hobbyists (see pimp my filter channel for example). Besides, it is well known and proven that "rings" are the worst filter media ever because they have limited surface area when compared even to lava. but thanks for your comment
@@tropicalfishhub I'm not sure what you were watching but the bio rings are effective just like the other media. You have underrated them. It's fine to use them under the tray to hold heavy muck but they actually hold bacteria just the same. Equally important as the sponge that you also disregarded and wash with tap water and squeeze like a sponge bath which destroys the colonies of beneficial bacteria in dual action from tap water but also from squeezing sponge. EVERY THING in the filter is to hold bacteria just the same not ONLY the bio media so you're contradicting yourself if you state you're using it for biological filtration which is a contradiction in terms, it's all biological filtration. The sponges has a great surface area for your bacteria just the same not just as a means of holding heavy muck.
@@goldiel4664 kinda late to this convo but agree with you on set up. If you water flows from the bottom up, then you need to have your sponges at the bottom. If the other way around them sponges at the top. Course, medium, and then fine. That way when the water hits the bio media THEN that water will be clean/semi-clean. This will prevent from your bio media from getting clogged and killing your beneficial bacteria. Having fine pad at the top will push muck to the bottom making it hard for beneficial bacteria to survive. However i do not like bio rings honestly, rather go with other media available.
@@08mario510 the way you describe your setup is almost good. A few old bio rings which everyone has at the bottom to trap the heavy muck then a course sponge. Place all your media after that. The fine floss is not necessary in this filter as that will be the first to clog and send unwanted bio shit back to your tank. Fine floss for another filter which you can open and change out without disturbing your main media filter. The notion that you have to clean these filters is not true as it takes months for the beneficial bacteria to form. The muck floating around the media is the beneficial bacteria and not gunk at all. The fine sponge should be at the intake or pre filter which will reduce opening your canister to once per year. No need for all this cleaning as it resets the entire process.
@@goldiel4664 not necessarily true with the fine pas/filter it will keep the very fine particles from hitting your bio media, this includes bio rings, balls, etc etc. your course pads and medium pads WILL NOT keep the fine particles from clogging up your bio media. In all filters it is recommended you have a pre-filter like a sponge on your intake tube and in my opinion fine pads are a must. Like i mentioned if you water in your filters flows from the bottom up. The course and media sponges will prevent the heavy muck/shit from hitting your rings, the fine pad will then filter out the very fine and small muck. By the time all that water hits your media there is very little muck/shit clogging up your media. Beneficial bacteria needs to surface area to live. Clogged media does not help
It might be because you have too much media which prevents it from closing. If not, open connector taps on both outlet and inlet pipes to let the air out.
Finally, the vid I was looking for. Thanks mate, I had no idea how to clean the head inside.
Hello again, Before i go out and buy more bio media, so i can set mine up like yours to see if it's more efficient. I need to know what you have in your aquarium. ● Is it a heavy bio- load? ●Is it also heavily planted? My bedroom tank is 16.9g ( 64L) it is heavily stocked with fish and plants: Cardinal tetras, Black phantom tetras, Harlequin rasboras, 3 otocinclus, 6 cory's . Med- high light preasurised planted tank. I know you do use a medium sponge at the bottom and filter wool at the top.● Would your set up be more effective in handling the loose detritus and plant matter in my Aquarium?. ●Where do did you purchase the foam media with the bumps on it? ●Do you know the ppi of the sponge? Thank you
Excellent video! Easy to follow. Great tips!
Thank you sir. . . .you make it look so easy. I will follow your procedure and I want to go out and give the Eheim filter a try now.
you all prolly dont give a shit but does anyone know a trick to log back into an Instagram account??
I was stupid lost my password. I would love any tips you can offer me!
@Arjun Tyler Instablaster :)
@Elijah Roman thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and Im in the hacking process now.
Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Elijah Roman it worked and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thanks so much you really help me out!
@Arjun Tyler No problem =)
Thank you for this great video. So easy to follow and so helpful!
Hello thanks for the instruction video. So about priming, you open the inlet valves then straight away open the outlet valves, to create a vacuum?. How do you know when it's full? Or when to plug it back on?. About O rings- I know about O ring for power head, but is there any sealing rings and where are they located? I was searching for replacement power head O ring when i came across 2 small black sealing rings for models 2113- 2117. If you look online here is the model no of O rings 7250600. Let me know where they located? ..is it in the valves?
Thank you! You can only prime through valves if you have water in them, that is if you haven't cleaned them. If they re empty then you can prime with a siphon pump, I have a video on it. Once it stops making noises it means that it is full and you can plug it in.
My canister never had sealing rings and I bought it new. I only have O ring and in 5 years I have used the unit continuously I never replaced it as it is still as new, I only lubricate it occasionally. Unless your canister is really old, you probably won't need replacements.
I need your help deeply please, i bought used 250 filter but without o ring , can you please give me the details for the o ring size thickness diameter etc .
Orginal o ring 12$ so i need to search for cheaper alternative o ring.
You need to search for it online. I don't even own this filter anymore:)
I’ve let the pump run mistakenly with no water pumping through before unplugging. Now after cleaning it’s not pumping , is that because there’s air in the hose ? Also , when done with cleaning you don’t have to fill the pump with water again? Or leave it empty like in your video ?
Yes, there is probably air left in pipes. As long as the pump is making noise it hasnt burned out. I don't fill it with water because there is some water in the pipes and it will prime fast, so there is no point.
Thank you for this!
Looking to get one of these so very useful video - thanks !
I have a 250 liter aquarium with gold fish,would u recommend this one?
It depends on how many goldfish you have. If only 2-3, then this filter should be fine, otherwise you will need something more powerful.
@@tropicalfishhub 12 medium size one,lol
@@gringomann1 This filter might do the job for now, but as they grow larger you will need stronger filter
@@tropicalfishhub Eheim Experience 250 is that better filter?
@@gringomann1 Its the same capacity for up to 250l
IMO you should not touch the impeller unless you have to. Best to leave it. The slime that builds around the magnet is actually beneficial to keep it lubricated Just rinse water through the opening for the impeller, that is all.
Leaving impeller alone is one of the biggest misconceptions. Eheim itself recommends regularly cleaning impellers. Check any Eheim canister instructions. If you leave your impeller 'alone' it will clog with muck, which will affect the flow. If your impeller needs to be lubricated, you can use a lubricant rather than slime. These parts are not designed to be lubricated by slime!
@@tropicalfishhub my 17 year old Eheim 2217 and 20 year old 2260 disagrees with you about clogging up with muck. Flows just like day one. :) Anyway we can agree to disagree.
Как фильтр сейчас?
You're putting the wrong filtering, you can't put it above the white bucket grid, I'm from Brazil
Can I use it for 3feet tank?
Should be about right if your tank is not overstocked
Floss on top is wrong
Der Impeller kann die Filterwatte ansaugen!
Der Schwamm unten bremst den Wasserfluss.
Es wird hier viel falsch gemacht, was den Filter zerstören kann.
would you recommend it for a small room?
Yes, I have it in a small room. Its very quiet
Your bio media is quite dirty you need more sponge
Omg, such a bad setup. Sponge at the bottom, courses then medium tgen the media rings. Then other media on top. Do not put a sponge on very bottom, you can put a few media rings to assist hold heavy dirt
Firstly, If you put your sponge on the bottom (even if you add some media under the sponge) and press it down with media, it will obviously loose its ability to absorb muck effectively because it will become pressed into your rings (which I'm assuming you want to use for mechanical filtration?!). Secondly, as I've said in the video, I'm using this canister for biological filtration, I do not need to keep there a collection of useless sponges or even more useless "rings". Adding a sponge on top of the basket is a time-proven method that has been used for years by many experienced hobbyists (see pimp my filter channel for example). Besides, it is well known and proven that "rings" are the worst filter media ever because they have limited surface area when compared even to lava. but thanks for your comment
@@tropicalfishhub I'm not sure what you were watching but the bio rings are effective just like the other media. You have underrated them. It's fine to use them under the tray to hold heavy muck but they actually hold bacteria just the same. Equally important as the sponge that you also disregarded and wash with tap water and squeeze like a sponge bath which destroys the colonies of beneficial bacteria in dual action from tap water but also from squeezing sponge. EVERY THING in the filter is to hold bacteria just the same not ONLY the bio media so you're contradicting yourself if you state you're using it for biological filtration which is a contradiction in terms, it's all biological filtration. The sponges has a great surface area for your bacteria just the same not just as a means of holding heavy muck.
@@goldiel4664 kinda late to this convo but agree with you on set up. If you water flows from the bottom up, then you need to have your sponges at the bottom. If the other way around them sponges at the top. Course, medium, and then fine. That way when the water hits the bio media THEN that water will be clean/semi-clean. This will prevent from your bio media from getting clogged and killing your beneficial bacteria. Having fine pad at the top will push muck to the bottom making it hard for beneficial bacteria to survive. However i do not like bio rings honestly, rather go with other media available.
@@08mario510 the way you describe your setup is almost good. A few old bio rings which everyone has at the bottom to trap the heavy muck then a course sponge. Place all your media after that. The fine floss is not necessary in this filter as that will be the first to clog and send unwanted bio shit back to your tank. Fine floss for another filter which you can open and change out without disturbing your main media filter. The notion that you have to clean these filters is not true as it takes months for the beneficial bacteria to form. The muck floating around the media is the beneficial bacteria and not gunk at all. The fine sponge should be at the intake or pre filter which will reduce opening your canister to once per year. No need for all this cleaning as it resets the entire process.
@@goldiel4664 not necessarily true with the fine pas/filter it will keep the very fine particles from hitting your bio media, this includes bio rings, balls, etc etc. your course pads and medium pads WILL NOT keep the fine particles from clogging up your bio media. In all filters it is recommended you have a pre-filter like a sponge on your intake tube and in my opinion fine pads are a must. Like i mentioned if you water in your filters flows from the bottom up. The course and media sponges will prevent the heavy muck/shit from hitting your rings, the fine pad will then filter out the very fine and small muck. By the time all that water hits your media there is very little muck/shit clogging up your media. Beneficial bacteria needs to surface area to live. Clogged media does not help
8:25 filter will not close no matter how much pressure no matter where i put oring !!
It might be because you have too much media which prevents it from closing. If not, open connector taps on both outlet and inlet pipes to let the air out.
Na so ein Quatsch