Inside the Hopi power meter. (It contains a smart meter chip!)
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- Опубликовано: 9 сен 2024
- I've often been asked if I can take the Hopi to bits, so I did.
While being a bit shady in some areas, the design is surprisingly sophisticated.
It also has a secret button I didn't know about!
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
www.bigclive.co...
This also keeps the channel independent of RUclips's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
"What the f*** is the button for?" Great t-shirt texts. I thought it was the hopi logo. So unassuming. lol
yes that would make a great t shirt, i could make that happen.
Mu Effe I would buy one
"There's a button."
"WTF is the button for?"
"I have no clue what that's for."
"I'm obviously gonna have to press it"
"Right, that has to be investigated as well. One moment please."
"That took a while because there were a couple of interesting things...."
This is why we subscribe. Thank you Clive, for being Clive and for sharing your videos with us.
I agree
Hands up those who took their Hopi out and discovered the button too.
Radar system training in the military.....I remember my instructor saying 'never press a button unless you know exactly what it's going to do'. It's advice that's served me well over the years!
I just chuckled and said out loud "Come on Clive RTFM for god's sake!" :P
@@davidhunt240 Do you really think the Manx man reads Chinese? Givum a break! RTFM yeah right.
Only half way thru "what the f*#/ is the button for" had me rolling.
+Raymond Mucklow I'm wondering what that button is for myself. I imagine that button is probably a reset button.
Same, I saw the button and was wondering about it just before he noticed!
@@scratchpad7954 Or maybe an interlock button to keep it from functioning with the case open.
i nearly spat my coffee out when he said that. haha
Haha :D 5:17 PEGI 18
if you want to relive that button moment 5:15
"what the f is the button for?"
LOL Even Funnier clicking that number! Thanks!
That made my day LOL
I've put together a small tribute to Clive and his button:
ruclips.net/video/kca2K9XKErw/видео.html
I replayed it like 5 times before i seen your link. Hahaha greatest moment ever
I reckon the numbers 1-24 you can select in the annual power consumption part are the number of hours per day the device is in use?
I was just going to comment that - 2.4W at 1 hour/day = 0.876kWh which is what is showed when 1 was selected
Yes the manual says this is for setting the number of hours per day the device is switched on, when calculating annual consumption.
@@Berkeloid0 Ah! So you read the manual? :D
@@calmeilles there's a manual?
@@Rac00n search on Aliexpress for hp-9800. the most sellers have a descripton for the button functions on the sell page.
And i got a manual includet in my HP-9800
"there is a button" "wtf is the button for" that cracked me up.This is why clive's videos are amazing, you are just a genuine and funny person that shows in your content.
Love the battery cover that exposes live terminals !
Ian Clarke - dangerous Chineseum feature 😱
It's Chinese population control, and it only culls the intellectually challenged, who are the only people who would stick their fingers (or any other appendage) in there to see what happens, hence, a smarter residual population!
At least, there's a locking slider to prevent curious fingers from seeking knowledge.
...but makes sure to still halfway cover the actual fuse you might want to change someday, even when the lid is off... :P
I don't have any excuse for it, but then again, i find it hard to feel sorry for any inebriated ape that might open that under load. You'll get a shock, you'll live. We've all shocked ourselves a few times.
2:44 “..end up with a gap if I did try to turn it around”.
But what the hell, it already has a deathdapter style mains socket, mains voltage clip in speaker terminals, and a user accessible live battery compartment round the back! What’s one more design defect amongst friends!
That button comment has to go into the Big Clive highlights video when someone makes it.
That video definitely should be made and it obviously has to include the reaction of the Fanny Flambeaux doll
@@my2ndlogin There was already a review of the bigclivedotcom channel here:
ruclips.net/video/kDhhBQvXtUE/видео.html
Don't forget to include the lead up. "There's a button...."
And the exploding disconnect haha. That is still my favourite.
Definitely! Along with my favourite, his Nosulus Rift accident ruclips.net/video/Ucymk0q70aQ/видео.html 6:00 to 8:00
"There's a button ... WTF is the button for? ... I have no clue what that's for .. I'm obviously gonna have to press it"
I was so hoping for the display to change to "Please do not press this button again"
HAHAHAHA! I've never heard you swear like that over a button!
I needed to do a double take on that @5:15, "Oh there's a button. what the fuck is the button for..." 😂😂😂😂😂
When did he shock himself with a lighter?
I almost skipped back to see if I heard right when he said "what the f$&% is the button for". Very much not what I expect in a Clive video.
I just took delivery of a HOPI today based on Clive having one. Good enough for Clive to use in his videos, good enough for me. Greetings from Australia.
I want to get one too.
uH-- = Complex (or apparent?) power (datasheet says it's active electric energy)
AEC = Annual electricity costs
APC = Annual power consumption
CO2 = Annual CO2 consumption
L-UP = Upper limit of power
When the display shows 'uH--', the display below it shows the apparent power. In the video, calculated apparent power is 5.645VA (slightly offset, it is 6.86VA), and when the displays changed to show another value, it is defined as load time, which is the combined value of those two displays, 0001 17.42 = 117.42h of load time (datasheets says h, I don't know what it is for).
USB section is just used for USB-to-serial port converter, but the IC is omitted on the board.
Additional note: The range it goes between 1 and 24 is both to set up an alarm for upper power limit and to set hours for APC.
Just here to tell that HOPI is being unboxed right now ❤ The T button is now described in the manual: "Key: adjust hours, display model, clear energy data. Remark: w hen display active power power will a lternate display the hours of load." There is also long and short press operation with graph provided! It can show even "annul CO2 consumption". Remember that "it will automatically stores the current operation as long as you not to press the key for more than 3s"!
3:45 “Without taking the circuit board out...”
Two seconds later- the board is coming out...!
Thanks for that.
Hi! The variability of mains AC frequency is a lot greater than we often assume. While the grid is regulated closely, and the frequency is maintained at 50hz almost perfectly over longer time frames (think days), it can swing around considerably in the short term. Excursions of up to a few hundred millihertz are not uncommon, and smaller deviations are constant. The stability of the quartz crystal inside your Hopi will contribute some, but over the short term and with a constant ambient temperature I think what you're seeing on the display is pretty accurate.
Unless you are the EU, where the problem went on for many years and made many timers and clocks highly inaccurate.
Interestingly enough there's a group who use that variability in criminal and other cases. Basically they keep/get really accurate measurements of the actual mains frequency and keep them for a long time. Then when somebody says this video/audio recording happened at a certain time they look for the mains hum even if it's sub audible they can reconstruct it.
Then by looking at the variance of that hum as it goes up and down they can determine what the actual time it was recorded was. They don't look at the absolute frequency, but the relative motion then match it to the logs they have.
Pretty cool really.
The pulse output on the metering chip is often exposed on terminals which can be wired to an external recording system, most usually a building management system (BMS), or a dedicated pulse counting logger. Advantage: simplicity, disadvantage: any failure of the monitoring system and pulses are missed (with a BMS, notouriously pulses might be missed if the microcontroller is too busy doing other things, or comms to the central unti fail). The alternative is a serial communications protocol between the meter and BMS, most commonly MODBUS, a variant of RS485.
@bigclivedotcom, I've been looking at the datasheet and the communication to the processor is SPI, which means the speed of communication can be anything, so I guess you could put a faster crystal on the processor side without any apparent issues. I'm guessing the CS5463 Xtal speed is 4.096Mhz (which was shown in the datasheet examples). It IS a pretty amazing chip.
Unbelievable!! After all this time, you find a button on the Hopi!
You mentioned the lower current range HOPI meter which had me interested, based on a quick search the only place that came up for HOPI meters appears to be aliexpress. The HOPI HP-9800 model does have a "HP-8173" listed in the description below rated up to 2.5A and "active power test range" 0.01W~550W instead of 0.5W~4400W of the HP-9800. The only minor issue appears to be that no HP-8173 is anywhere to be found, not on aliexpress nor on other places at the internet.
There is also some documentation on that description about the button btw (any weird spelling below is directly from their image)
"AEC: Annul electricity costs
APC: Annul Power Consumption
uH__: Active electric energy
CO2: Annul CO2 Consumption
L-UP: Upper limit of Power"
Yet another interesting bit here, they have button press instructions consisting of long (>2s) and short (
I think you'd have to populate more of the board with a USB-serial chip as well as the connector. That does imply the 4-pin pattern near the display CPU is a serial link.
If any of your phones have a high speed camera function, it could be vaguely interesting to see a slowmo shot of the leds so we can better understand how they are driven.
Great video, Amazing that after so many uses already, you revealed that magic hidden button.
Ohh... That button reminds me of a secret button inside my old CRT TV remote, it has the rubber pad with the carbon contact but it's very shallow and the label has buried the hole it's sitting in, use a needle and press it reveals a service menu that let you change a lot of things like overscan, rotate the screen...
YEEE! Fluttershy
@@daretodreamtofly3288 i wasn't expecting that reaction tbh...
i remember that old samsung projection tv, once i was servicing, it had hidden menu after some kind of on remote button combination.
@@sebo0855 Samsung TV's are still like that now. Info, Mute, Menu, Power if memory serves me correctly.
@@firstsurname9893 maybe you're right because internal muting relay was clicking during this combination. And i haven't seen more TV's with back projection from close-up, it was the only one that i saw in my life, maybe It was caused by horrific price in this region ( Europe, Poland ). Good to know it's still existing.
The RC04V is FRAM memory. These FRAM parts are fairly common in applications where a relatively small amount of non-volatile storage is required. Being non-volatile they'll hold their contents without power applied, much like Flash does, but they don't need the complicated unlocking sequence before writing. My company uses them for storing fault logs, elapsed time indication, unit identification information, etc.
The other cool things about FRAM are virtually unlimited writes, and no additional write time (same access speed as a read).
@@Peter_S_ With FRAM a write is potentially faster than a read, as reads are destructive. The device has to read and re-write the cells for every read operation. This means there must absolutely reliably be enough stored energy to complete a read and re-write cycle before it begins, or you would end up with a corrupt memory when the power fails.
FRAM tends to have less retention time than flash or EEPROM has though (only 10 years for a part I'm currently using ). Good for data that changes regularly, not so good for calibration data that remains constant for the life of the device.
I quite like the flickering effect. It's something you don't see on most modern electronics in videos anymore, since everything is usually so high speed you just get bars along the screen, if anything at all.
I have some Chauvet DMX4 cheap lighting dimmers which have a very flickery 4 digit LED display, the flickering looks really tacky. I assumed it was because they were re-drawing the entire display when they refreshed it (I have this problem with using OLEDs with an Arduino, best to avoid clearing display and just overwrite data that has changed), but for a 7 segment display Clive;'s explanation makes more sense.
In my world, Hopi (long o, named after the Hopi Tribe of Arizona) is a Labrador who enjoys chewing on Flukes.
That's easily the best reaction anyone has ever had to a button.
Regarding mystery optocoupler: it could be for creating a nice square wave for mains frequency counting ( if that specialized power-monitor IC wants it that way )
1-24 may be how many hours the appliance will be used per day.
Yeah I only found that out by accident, they hide that button well 😂
It is.
www.aliexpress.com/item/HOPI-HP-9800-Handheld-Power-Meter-Power-Analyzer-LED-Metering-Socket-Measurable-Current-voltage-Power-Factor/32375959317.html
Manual down the page a touch.
@@ballsrgrossnugly Some of that manual did not make much sense !!
@@highpath4776 It's pretty clear about the 1-24 being hours per day of use for the yearly estimate though.
I like the flickery display, it adds to the charme of this channel. Not everything has to be professional, a little bit of flicker fits with what is written in the channels about page: "So just like a normal workshop really." Also unexpected button was unexpected.
It would have been funny if it turned out the button changed refresh rates and eliminated the flicker on camera. After all this time...
According to the manual, the 1-24 is number of hours in a day that the device is used. uH is "Active Electric Energy," AEC is "Annual Electricity Costs," APC is "Annual Power Consumption," and CO2 is "Annual CO2 Consumption."
Zzyzx Wolfe But how does it know the Annual Electricity Cost, if there is no way to program the cost per kWh? (Rhetorical). Weird.
@@andyowens5494 Clearly it's designed for communism, where the energy is always free! /s
Unexpected mystery buttons inside devices are like free candy unexpectedly
You can get versions with a micro USB port on the top so it's definitely for data logging.
I would suspect that the 4-pin header silkscreen is for a regular size usb A plug header.
There are some other unpopulated parts next to the footprint for the USB, so I suspect those would need to be installed and possibly the firmware on the MCU changed in order to get that function.
Am I the only one who was half expecting one of the displays to say "RTFM" eventually? :P
Yes
I bought one of these devices from Aliexpress after I saw you using it in one of your videos. Great little device and great videos.
Clive, here in the US, power stablizers/cleaners are a way of life in the world if high end light and sound. At a planetarium I used to frequent in my youth used Xenon arc lamps. They are expensive and kept blowing. Power company said all was fine, until a bunch of high school kids and teacher got out their meters and found just how dirty the wall power was. Will remember that meter going back and forth well past my 50's (since I am 60, done). After the "Power Cleanser" was installed, life of the lamps literally tripled. Sad but true. The 60HZ frequency appears to be a guideline. Can vary from 58 to 63 Hz. Your meter is probably very accurate in that regard, power is probably that dirty! Keep the very interesting and occasionally weird videos coming! And Americans do not have hotdogs in a can...just saying...we call those sausages...
I was waiting for the teardown of this thingy. Amazing!
To test it properly I want you to plug the Hopi meter into a Hopi meter.
Right! Just push its plug into its outlet and voila - you just got yourself perpetuum mobile. I mean it. Try it. You'll see that there will be no current taken, nor power consumed. ; -)
I love you videos Clive. I understand about half of what you're talking about with the circuitry, the rest is just over my head until I have the time to sit down and learn about it. Nonetheless, I love your stuff.
You can stop the display flicking on the camera by turning down the lights in the room, thus causing the camera to compensate for the dimmer light by changing its shutter to effectively stay constantly open (or at least not be shut for so long during each video frame).
so CS5463. That's a lot of functionality in one little chip. As ever, brilliant video and now I have that chip on my radar for a project. Thanks B.C.
True bravery and optimism - taking apart one of your most vital measuring tools.
Can you imagine Clive in an Ulduar raid, getting to Mimiron and seeing the BIG RED BUTTON on the wall that says DO NOT PUSH THIS BUTTON.
The not meassuring low loads could be to avoid a ADC-offset from building up a bill.
Smart-meters (and mechanical ones) have a thing about not metering at very low power to avoid ghost-load.
Basically inperfections that "make the disc spin" at absolutely NO LOAD.
If you work out the annual power consumption for the load to be connected 24/7 it reads way out. By pressing the button to around 23 it reads nearer what you would expect the consumption to be over a year of use.
You could always remove the opto-isolator and see if any readings look suspicious or wrong. That may give a clue as to it's purpose.
This reminds me of a sequence from Titan A. E. ...
Gune: "Does this look familiar? Do you know what it is? Neither do I. I made it last night in my sleep. Apparently I used Gindrogac. Highly unstable. I put a button on it. Yes. I wish to press it, but I'm not sure what will happen if I do."
The Hopi is coming apart? I'm making dinner and watching this! Wow, rock on!
Optocoupler on input is simply there to provide a reset to a watchdog timer. Mains fails and the timer overflows, providing a way to write the data to the ferroelectric memory on power fail, without killing the memory with writes. Probably there is a version with a non volatile memory storage that stores some data long term after power failure, so needs this timer.
I did wonder if it was for secure memory writes, but on the other hand it could also be deriving accurate clock timing from the 50Hz.
You could theoretically put a faster osc in the board without affecting the serial communication, where it's SPI or I2C, they both have a clock pulse line
Although look at the datasheet for the microcontroller for max clock speed, i would say it's max would be 20Mhz, but don't quote me on that
The 2 columns of displays run in parallel rather than series. If you pause the video when the meter is displaying (at the end of the vid), you can see matching blank LED segments on each column.
Clive, I have a similar meter from Banggood or Fasttech and it came with a Chinese manual.
I complained about the fact that they didn't supply an English manual with it and they were kind enough to translate it for me.
I believe the button is used to set up the device to do longer measurements. I'm not sure since it was quite some time ago but I can lookup the e-mail and send you a copy.
The mains frequency will vary on The Isle of Man just by a few folk turning on and of things. For a larger grid such as the UK it has been found that frequency changes can be recovered from such things audio recordings and give an accurate time and date for them rather like a finger print !
The grid frequency right now is 50.018Hz.
And 20 minutes later it's 49.917Hz. Lot of people put the kettle on perhaps.
Just wanna say i have a Hopi meter too, also UK, and i just checked the fuse inside the plug and its a 13A fuse that they've bridged with some solder and copper wire...
Might be worth checking yours, and maybe even the new meter you have (even tho the new one isn't rated at 4500W)
Tips for flickering display i found online. Put two identical videotracks at 50% seetrough and 1-2 frame offset in the video edit software. It's used to fix when you recordet at the wrong framerate compared to mains Hz. But it might work at higher refresh rates as well. Thanks for the cool video.
Clive is too cool for editing. ▶️⏯️▶️ Idiots like me need to edit in order to try and keep up with today's attention span. And I tried the pause technique but forgot or the camera glitched out on me.
The mysterious button had me gasping for breath, havent laughed like that in several months!
1...24 hours of daily use - then it also makes sense with the kWh/year
Best Clive's sentence ever 😂 5:18
uH - current power consumption
APC - annual power consumption
numbers - number of hours a day the thing is on - want 24 for constant use measurements
RTFM, i think
It would take 168 capacitors but I wonder if you could put a capacitor across each led in the display so the flicker on the camera would be a brightness flicker rather than a hard on/off
that geniune reaction to the button was comedy gold. thanks for the laugh, i needed it today.
I guess the counting up from 1-24 is the hours a day the device is on for calculating the annual power consumption.
Ran out of things to tear down?? few days ago I bought a toy from Walmart that was on clearance and called "Boxer Robot", seemed very interesting until I took it apart to see what chips are there and found 3 black "blobs". I was disappointed, so I put it together and returned it. now I got the thought that I should've sent it to you.
Would you be able to build one with what you want and without the flicker? A plug, a standard Edison screw fitting and wire terminals for the common things you test without needing to use adapters.
Right up there with building a USB test rig to handle the normal testing and look for the normal bugs you run into with the cheaper builds. Why daisy chain 2-3 devices together to test a power bank/load and see it on a screen/be able to save the data.
The way to fix the rolling screens is to adjust the shutter speed and frame rates of your camera.
Yes, to something which may be but almost certainly isn’t synced to anything useful. If it was 50 Hz, Clive would have noticed by now. It’s more likely 93 or something.
30fps and it looks fine , anything at 60fps upward and Clive's trademark filcker occures ,
I did the test in this terrible video
ruclips.net/video/Nk0AnUR-gfs/видео.html
It can be surprising how unstable the powerline frequency actually is. In the United States I've been watching and logging it for several years as a hobby. There are times I've noticed drops of over 0.040 Hz and later been able to read the Nuclear Regulatory Commission website and verify a nuclear reactor in another part of the country had to go offline at that time. U.S. power grid is divided into at least 3 parts so dips in another part are not noticeable in this part.
Well he does live on the Isle of Man, initially I assumed they probably generated their electricity locally but turns out that's not exclusively the case anymore.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manx_Electricity_Authority
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isle_of_Man_to_England_Interconnector
Short summary:
- 40MW rated AC power cable bringing in electricity from England (became operational in 2000)
- 87MW gas turbine (completed in 2003)
- 1 MW of hydro
- 90.4MW total of diesel generators
Given the power ratings of the various sources I'm guessing there's still some being produced locally since 40MW spread over the 83000ish population would be roughly 481W available per individual. That already seems low for just residential use, since the "average electricity per household in the UK is 4,648 kWh" according to www.onaverage.co.uk/consumption-averages/average-electricity-usage works out to 530W average (which is going to have significantly higher peaks). Add in some non-residential usage and there has to be a reasonable amount of local power and compensating for demand going on which is likely to account for that frequency variation.
I'm willing to bet that 2nd optoisolator going into the display driver brain box is literally just a clock signal for switching the multiplexer between digits. It would also explain the slow flicker.
I got mine after you told me where to get it. Unfortunately the speaker terminals are mounted on a black plastic block but mine is so thick it won’t let most UK plugs sit flat in place. What a pain but fixed by fitting one of those square deathdapters in place and plugging into that.
Clive there is loads of “depth” ( not sure of the correct term ) on the back of the socket, instead of turning it 90 degrees push it outwards to raise it above the speaker terminals.
For anyone curious like I was, I purchased one and have the manual.
HAND-HELD POWER MONITOR, Operating Instructions
MODEL: HP-9800/20A, HP-8713/2A
Shenzen HOPI electrnoic technology co. LTD.
1. Description of menu and key
REC - Annual electricity costs
APC - Annual Power Consumption
CO2 - Annual CO2 consumption
uH - Active electric energy
L - UP - upper limit of power
Short press: Press key less than 1 s
Long press: Press key more than 2 s
2. Set the allarm upper limit of power and the hours for annual pwoer consumption
Short press
Set the amount of hours per day to calculate annual power consumption
3. Set the display content
Reset device by unplugging and plugging in
Long press "FREQUENCE" segment display shows:
A. Active electrical energy, "uH--"
short press
B. Annual electricity cost "REC"
short press
C. Annual CO2 consumption "CO2"
short press
D. Annual Power Consumption "APC"
Note: When set to display "uH--" model, display the load time: 1880.5h (No idea what the hell this means)
4. Clear the electrical power data and load time
Reset device by unplugging and plugging in
A. Long press until 'FREQUENCY' segment display shows 'uH--'
B. Long press once more until 'FREQUENCY' segment display shows 'REC'
5. Storage operation
It will automatically store the current operation as long as you do not press the key for more than 3s
Note: After some experimenting you are able to set the kWh price when using the AEC mode
a. Switch to Annual energy cost mode
b. Short press and set the price per kWh
The range is $0 to $20 per kWh.
The opto could be for frequenzy detection to let the Hopi work on 50Hz and 60Hz. ZeroBrain explained it in a video of a DLAN device.
The stc micro has only a watch crystal and sometimes an opto is used for the display refresh clock. Aka the display refreshes every zero cross. This is often done in appliances
You've just made me realise that he zero crossing point detection may be for accurate mains derived timing.
Couldn’t you put an R+C over each of the pins on the back (approx 3:35 in the vid), to keep the segments lit for 20ms (one 50hz cycle)?
V=Ve^trc so to get a half-life of 20ms and a resistance of 1k so it doesn’t pull the voltage down to ground too fast, 20ms/1kOhm gives you 20uF so grab some 1k resistors and 10V 22uF ceramic caps and stick them across to fix the flickering for the camera?
Guess that’d cost £20 and a lot of headache soldering almost two hundred parts
You can get cameras or camera (mobile?) function that match the frame rate to the normal electical display rate- see geofftech videos as he films lots of National Rail displays - and his set up did not work in Eire where the refresh rate is different.
@@highpath4776 yeah you could screw around with the filming framerate probably, but afaik Clive uses a cameraphone so probably doesnt have a way to change the framerate. Doing so in post probably wont help either.
APC - Annual power consumption, you select the number of hours in operation per day, 1 to 24 hours. uH should display the total time the hopi have measured load. The value is split in two parts, first is shown in frequency display, and second in annual power display. Yours seems to show 117.42 hours of operation at the time of shooting.
possible functions for the "WTF button"
-triggers the earth shattering kaboom
-switches between metric and SAE units
-launches North Korean nukes
-its the missing AZ-5 button from Chernobyl
Just an FYI, Most industrial power meters use a "Transducer" which operates from about 90 Volts to 280 Volts to power the unit. The current input is most often 5A for the base transducer. Then current transformers are used for metering higher currents, and Potential transformers are used to measure higher voltages. These are used by utilities for example to meter 13.8KV power at for example 1,000 A for 13.8 MW reading. The transducer is programmed for the appropriate scale factors even though the base instrument operates on up to 5A and up to 280V. Most of these are designed to measure VA, Watts, Power Factor, Harmonics, Volts, and Watt Hours. Most are factory configured for 3 phase power and most can be configured for single phase. The actual transducers are not that expensive and can be found online. You can buy the Current Transformers if needed. For my diesel generator I have 150:5A current transformers and don't use potential transformers. Many of the transducers do not have terminals for current, but have current transformers for you to pass the 5A current wire.
For your videos you might want to pick one up with an LCD instead of LED display.
Sometimes they are listed as a multi function digital panelboard meter. You found the right ones when the spec sheet specifies the input current is 1/5Amps and 3 or single phase. This is industry standard for industrial power measurement. The instrument will have a power connection to power the device and a metering input for 0- typically 280 or 480 volt range. Display will switch between Watts/Volts/Amps/VA/PF for each phase and K and M scales of it such as KW or MW, V, KV, MV as they can be scaled to display properly when using transformers for metering. Google a Theta 30 Single or 3 Phase Transducer for an example meter with an LCD display. There are many to choose from.
If you set the number to 2 you get the monthly power consumption, which I personally find more useful. Unfortunately my hopi doesn't remember the cost per kWhr, so you have to set it every time if you want to have a direct display of cost.
Also the male plug gets hot at only 8A for a few seconds, so I will probably change it.
And in my unit the soldering of the thick wires was pretty bad, so I resolder it before use.
I forgot to mention, if you hold the button for a couple of seconds more you reset the energy and time of the "uH" screen.
From a listing on AliExpress:
Short press sets the hours per day it's on for calculating Annul Power Consumption (Range: 1~24)
Long press sets you in "Set the display content mode", using the short press to cycle between modes
AEC: Annul electricity costs
APC: Annul Power Consumption
uH: Active electric energy (I think it's the total amount of energy used, as it cycles in this mode between "active electric energy" and hours of load, displayed over both the frequency and annual power consumption field)
CO2: Annul CO2 Consumption
I hope this helps decipher the "what the fuck" button, although the manual remains quite cryptic.
I have a HOPI power meter which has seen very little use, but I still have the original packaging and the minimal Chinese documentation. The outer packaging is labelled "Energy saving lamps tester", so it's probably not intended for bigger loads. The push button behind the T is identified as part (7), but I can't read the Chinese explanation of its function. Maybe Google Translate could help, but I doubt it.
Sounds like we need a high speed camera to check the display
2:35 A little bit of filing and some how glue n she'll be right 👍🏻 If it was me then I'd definitely stick a double pole switch in for those speaker terminals AND a fast blow fuse because they're only rated for 3A at 50V so that's almost 6x the voltage rating! 🤯
A simple way to fix the flicker is to tape a neutral density filter over the camera lens. That will force the camera's shutter to slow down.
Hearing the the US/Canada version has neutral and hot legs reversed at the 3 prong plug and carries this through to the outlet socket. Fixable with a little rerouting via the "battery" area. But the second issue is the socket does not have the wide and narrow slots for a polarized 2 wire plug setting someone up for dealing with a hot chassis/case if plugged in wrong. This one makes it a no go for me as people with less knowledge than us probably don't even know why polarized plugs and sockets exist - To physically prevent you from plugging it in backwards. I have some candle LED lamps where the outer screw contactor metal extends up well out of the socket. When I saw this I measured from it to ground just to make sure a bulb change wasn't going to become a hair raising event.
I just got my Hopi today and there were two issues, it had the wrong country plug and the red filter doesn’t completely line up over the LEDs so the left side is really bright. I attached the correct plug myself and I hope I got the polarity right but I’d googled it beforehand, (I’m not a sparky).
The case easily came apart in your hands, mine is very tight and I couldn’t insert the spudger tool. I watchwd this video a couple of months ago and I’ve now looked at it again and I know that I can access the LEDs as soon as I get the case open.
For the Display, you could try those cheap glow-in-the-dark-tape between the Digits and the filter. they work much better with blue LED, but maybe it is enough to prevent camera view from flickering.
I hope you noticed the apparently loose/cold solder joint of the incoming green wire as seen at the lower right of your photo of the board.
I was beginning to wonder if anyone else noticed that. Unless I got disoriented, there are other bad connections as well.
Clive, I think you are the same as me: I love pulling my new "toys" apart, just for a look look see what's inside!
That socket sure does look square inside the unit. Looks like it just clips into place as well. If it were mine, I'd try turning it sideways just to see it it'd work.
The crystal with a round can on it looks similar to the 32kiHz crystals used in quartz watches and realtime clock circuits. Using a faster one would make for a better multiplexing but yes, it would alter the baud rate of the serial connection. Presumably the 1-24 values of the T-button are to set how many hours per day the device is used and calculate annual power consumption that way. Strange feature. The CO2 thing even more so.
I doubt the 32kHz crystal is used to drive the clock of the micro. It is way too slow to read the power meter chip and multiplex the segments. Since the display looks solid to the eye, the multiplexing frequency has to be somewhere close to 100Hz, otherwise you'd see flicker. That leaves just a few hundred clocks per refresh to to do everything the microcontroller needs to do.
The crystal will more likely be there for time keeping to calculate line frequency for example. The power meter chip has a clock output designed to drive an external microcontroller, which I guess will drive the micro. Costsaving again.
But even if the microcontroller would have his own crystal, there is no way to change it to anything else and expect anything else still to work without rewriting the firmware.
@@superdau I originally thought, too, that the 32kHz crystal (if that's even what it is... I think so but can't be sure) was for measuring line frequency, but then I'd expect it to be connected to the multimeter chip, not the microcontroller. although if the multimeter chip puts out voltage measurements fast enough over serial it could definitely made to work but I somehow doubt that.
"What the fuck is the button for!?!"
Best line of 2019 - Big Clive
The expensive Metrahit Energy also uses the Cirrus CS5463 IC
the photo blow up is at just the right angle that its fooling my eye into thinking youre actually holding it. top shelf special effects
The actual mains frequency varies far more nowadays than it did 30 years ago as the increase in wind turbines (and solar) and the reduction in thermal turbogenerators is destroying the natural inertia of the grid.
Here there’s a law where the power company is fined x amount of times for a dip in frequency, they are also ordered to compensate for that frequency loss.
@@BritishEngineer yes genius, which ‘power company’ can vary frequency as the generators experience the grid as an ‘infinite bus’ and no power station or power company can significantly alter the frequency … frequency control is achieved by the National Grid.
AEC might be REC can you record current consumed over time maybe?
That's what I was thinking too. Had to read the comments before saying the same thing someone else already did.
Very nice. I've seen the Hopi in a lot of your videos and it's nice to see how it's made. The dedicated power meter chip is really surprising!
The mystery button though..... have you tried to contact the manufacturer about it? They might be happy to explain it to you.
I think what you see with the Hz display is correct BC.
UK Grid frequency is pretty lively.
It becomes less stable the more renewables we have connected to it.
Of course, the Isle of Man might at least be a special subsection of the grid.
I've seen breakout modules for the CS5460A IC (not the CS5463 as seen here) on AliExpress, but they only really provide you with the IC and a few resistors & capacitors - they don't include the current shunt or voltage divider (or the current transformer/potential transformer for that option), nor any of the filtering and other components that are required by the datasheet. Besides the CS5463's 2.5V reference having a better temperature coefficient (25 ppm/℃ vs. 30 ppm/℃ typical, but both have the same specified maximum of 60 ppm/℃), I'm not entirely sure what the difference is between the CS5460 and the CS5463, but I've not spent long reading the data sheets.
There's also a CS5464 version, which describes itself as a "Watt-hour meter on a chip" and looks generally a bit better, though its temperature coefficient is 40 ppm/℃...
All three of them are ~$2-2.50 in single quantities on LCSC, but can be found for a fraction of that cost on AliExpress (which is less-trustworthy than LCSC, but honestly I've never had a problem buying cheap ICs from AliExpress before; I wouldn't want to rely on them for critical or professional applications, but for hobby use they're probably fine...).
Ya know, I've often noticed that odd yellow T on that meter and thought it seemed very out of place on that front panel. And now I know.
For anybody wanting to build own single-phase power meter, This Cirrus Logic CS5463 is ok, but a bit more accurate version is CS5490. Both are 24 pin devices, and can operate at 3.3V. If you are space constrained and want something smaller and cheap, then HLW8012 (a bit older, but super easily available on Aliexpress, for about 0.40$/pcs; 0.33$/pcs at high volumes), or HLW8110 (newer, 3.3V, better accuracy, lower power use, can't find it on Aliexpres) from Hiliwi Technology is way to go, if you can read Chineese data sheets, which is ok.
I'd like to say "I was waiting for this for YEEEARS."
..., but I don't think I even follow for that long... ^^
I have.
waaait a minute! looks super familiar case! It's the rigexpert! :D
From the HOPI manual:
AEC: Annual Electricity Cost
APC: Annual Power Consumption
uH--: Active Electric Power
CO2: Annual CO2 Consumption
L-UP: Upper limit of Power