Agreed. Wholeheartedly. I just found the channel, but I LOVE the straight forward format. You get what you come for, nothing else. Although, music CAN be tolerable if done properly. Ie, in a way that you don't realize it was done at all. Subtlety. Not blasting music over every bit of dialogue (monologue?) because they seem to be terrified of dead air. But, I think that's the case for any sort of editing in post.
Except the heat disappation, the quality is actually suprisingly good. It gives you good efficiency with nice sinewave. I would add fans and additional aluminium heatsinking and it could be a nice inverter.
If electronics get hot the lifespan will reduce. If you are adding fans and a heatsink, you are better off buying a better brand. You will spend a similar amount of money. Putting a golden ring on a monkey doesn't make it beautiful.
I have the same for 3-4 years ,i payed even mor cheap 22$ on ali express ,is still working ,i use it for caravan to power All-In-One 27 inch Acer computer and few other electronic that need 220V and for that it works Ok,i dont put some big load on it
I had the same one but 1500w one powering 2 fridges, a freezer, and sometimes a 1000w deep well pump (it would only work for 30 seconds with that turned on, after 30 seconds it would trip the over current protection and i had to turn the inverter off and on again) I used it for half a year constantly on to power my stuff and it had no problems, after that i sold it and bought a Victron 5000VA one
If you want to buy any Chinese inverter without any issues, multiply your total load by X3 Assuming your total watts is 1000watts its better you buy 3000watts inverter. Thats what i did and am enjoying my 3000watts inverter for more than 4yrs ans still counting
I think the problem with having an overly large inverter compared to the actual used AC power is that it has a larger idle power consumtion and perhaps lower efficiency also when used.
@@skunkjobb My 3000 eats one amp in idle (12v). One extra fan permanent on when working and is already two years old powering 200-300w worth of electronics
The lack of an earth terminal on the socket isn't a problem. Most of these portable inverters, including the Giandel, are setup for I class supply, ie the inverter does not supply ground (earth). Specifically there is no connection between the neutral output and the earth pin, if there even is an earth pin. When you see a wire connecting the earth pin in the socket to the chassis, such as the in Giandel, the inverter is IT class. Search for IT, TT, TN-C and TN-C-S to learn more about this. Regardless there is no situation where this arrangement is dangerous without what is referred to as a double fault, ie there has to be two insulation failures in order for you to get a shock or worse.
@@user-kl2zs3kp7d Good question. It comes down to the aircon. Inverter types are much easier to run since they don't have that big motor start draw. If it's an old type that has a purely mechanical thermostat that is capable of short cycling the line operated compressor you'll probably find it overloads your inverter if the compressor tries to start under a high pressure situation causing the inverter to turn off its output. I have a Fujitsu ASTG09KMTC inverter AC which a Giandel 2000W 240V/50Hz inverter runs without any problems at all. That AC is rated at 2.5kW of cooling or, if my calculation is correct, about 8500 BTU. As far as grounding the chassis of the inverter goes, I'd be happy enough to run it without being grounded but you should do what ever your local regulations tell you. I will say this though, don't go hacking around the insides of the inverter. That's quite dangerous. Just plug your appliances into it as intended.
@@retrozmachine1189 Yes when my wifi was plugged in as well it shut down when the compressor kicked on maybe 10% of the time but no issues since I unplugged the wifi. Its got just enough! Thank you.
I've had this inverter for a year and a half and it does it's job for powering the lights and charging a few laptops and phones in a offgrid house/hut during the weekends in the summer. If that's all that you need it is very good price/performance. I have never tried powering an actual appliance with it though as I'm sure it won't work.
91% efficient is honestly amazing compared to how things used to be. Maybe electronics begninners can finally stop going through the "Let's DIY some 12vdc power distribution stuff" that we all seem to have done.
I have the 1100w continuous version of that cheap Chinese inverter. I've had it for 2 years. I use it for a 1000w air fryer and a 800w hot water heater every day. It's never failed or shutdown on me. I've only replaced the fan as it got a bit noisy. Think I paid £40.
Yeah, still good to know that this one has a max constant wattage of at most 400W, probably more like 300W to 350W. It turned off at 420W for a heat emergency, so likely 400W is also not gonna run forever, especially in hot outside temperatures. The case says 500W though.
Of course it is but it's marketed as a 1000 W inverter and it's the 1000 that is printed in big letters. The advertised power should be the constant power, not the one for short peaks. That's how it's done for all other inverters that I know off.
Peak power consumption is poorly defined anyway. Like what is peak power consumption? Turning a pc power supply on can easily have a peak inrush current of 40 Amps or more. What is 10000 watts.
2 месяца назад+2
Not as bad as I expected, especially the efficiency at 250W seems to be really good. Edit: Checked the prices and a legitimate 300W pure sine wave inverter starts at about 45$ here.
For cheap chinese brand always buy the spec at least more than twice your real needed power. It will work flawlessly and long lasting. The price will still be much cheaper than you buying a popular brand with a much lower power spec. And even if you buy popular brand once it burned you still void the warranty because they will say you overloaded and burned it so no warranty. 🗿
I got a cheap 1000 watt pure sinewave inverter for 80$ on amazon that does rated power (Included cables are a bit inadequate though so I upgraded to thick 1/0 gauge to minimize voltage drop and prevent overheating at full power) and it works fantastic. for 80$ it's a steal. does rated power (full 1000 watts continuous) and doesnt overheat. it's a bit large but its strong. Can start a full window air conditioner (350 watts operation) easily. and full size shop vacuum cleaner. 120v AC and 12 volts DC. Works great with my 100 amp hour 12-volt AGM lead acid battery setup. I use it as a backup electric generator in case of a power outage or emergency.
I got a cheap $100 USD 5000W inverter after using this exact 1000e inverter. I can tell you the difference is night and day. The 5000w is far more efficient maybe double and the sinewave is incredible without it my electronics chug power. I can't stress enough how badass my cheap 5000w inverter is. Life saving and efficient.
I have a very similar one, about same size, except mine only claims 300W. Works ok for low power loads like phone chargers etc, the biggest problem is the low input voltage cut off is not adjustable and as it's meant to be used in cars and not drain the battery too much to be able to start the engine it cuts off at 12.5V which makes the usable capacity of the batteries quite small.
Really a nice and complete test. I was testing the exact same device yesterday with a 250W load and 3S 117Ah Li-ion battery. Despite good battery cables it drops about 400mV somewhere so it shuts down prematurely. It was working for 3 hours and 20 minutes. Since it is so dirty cheap, it has the potential to be upgraded to become a small UPS. The PCBs are surprisingly well built and I really don't know where they make any profit on this. Maybe I should also note, that the output voltage was falling when the battery was depleting, at the end it was only 200V, but that is OK for most of the stuff.
It could be because of voltage drop under load. Not familiar with li-ion though. Profit would be because of volume and no possibility for a return. I wouldn't recommend it though.
It's engineered with the cheapest set of components they could find. On paper they do provide 500W / 1000W RMS but in reality it will likely burn up after a few hour, days of running time. And that is the difference in between a real 500 and a sub-500W inverter. The voltage output quality with a expensive one is likely much cleaner, and better for your equipment then that cheap thing. It's good to run low loads such as 200 ~ 300W's off of it, it will likely last longer. And yes you can increase the cooling and add tricks to make it live or work longer, but eventually you'll run into the cheap components MBTF's, if they have any.
any inverter to last long, you have to get double your load capacity! Like your daily average is 700W, get a 1500W inverter! It'll degrade so slowly due to heating! My 1$ advice as a solar tech! Ive installed all types of inverters, experience tell me so! From the cheapest chinese to expensive German, US & chinese inverters
In theory one of the poles _is_ earth in many common applications. E.g. most cars have the negative battery pole collected to the chassis, which effectively makes it the ground. But as that depends on the concrete application (and even some cars have plus on chassis), it'd be wrong to "hardcode" it. Would make sense to at least have a switch for whether to put + or - on ground (other valid options could be "none of them" or "a proper type capacitor to one of them"), or else you may get a huge problem if the case of what you're powering touches the car's chassis. Obviously none of these options are perfect, so a 4th option - the most important one - should be an option for an external ground connection.
@@divVerent Ground it's not the same as Earth. In 12 V DC there will be a plus and a minus. If using an inverter to make 230 V AC, there still is no Earth. You can make an artificial Earth from Neutral, so a RCD can be put in front of the load. But often it will be a IT-network. Inverter/chargers on ships has no Earth except when they are connected to shore power, then Earth is part of the shore power.
Good test buddy, one thing I’d like to test if I wanted to know how reliable it was, would be to stick a thermocouple on the IGBT heatsink inside and monitor the temperature when you put the load on with a moderate amount of current. Then make sure that the operating temperature stays well below where the IGBTs will temperature derate, probably somewhere around 80 degrees C then do the same with the maximum rated power and see if it can sustain the power into the load without the over temperature derate point being reached. Finally, I would then gradually increase the load current until the unit goes into temperature shut down and see what temperature it does shutdown at. Is the temperature value of the IGBTs at shutdown close to a suitable deration value for the IGBTs ie, probably well lower than 100 degrees C. It’s important to remember that as the temperature goes into the deration range the devices rated power output must be scaled down by the rated % per degree C otherwise the life of the IGBTwill be reduced and the risk of failure will increase.
I found that most of these cheaper Asian made inverters are not only falsely advertising the wattage, but the title also says " full sine wave" when they are actually modified sine wave. Often you can scroll down in the detailed description to find the word "modified". This makes a difference with motors like a refrigerator or sensitive electronics.
It is worth knowing with the power ratings have a generally only advertise peak. It is generally on listing photos so if you really want to know what the continuous power rating as you could potentially zoom into these photos.
I have a laptop that has an adapter of 130w, i'm unable to charge it with my 1200w inverter that offers continuous power supply of 600w... whenever I plug it in,the inverter begins to make some noise after some seconds 😢any advice I'm using 12v 100ah battery 1200w inverter 12v charge controller 150w all weather solar panel
i found out that is is better to power your laptop/phone without an invertiert. i got for my camper 12v laptop and pd charger. no double losses while converting 12vdc in 230vac and than in the charger back to 5-18vdc. 🤷♂️
@@marshallzink7282 For most inverters, that noise (assuming it's a beep or buzzer) means the battery voltage/current is too low or there's a problem with the inverter. If it's a different noise the inverter probably has a major issue.
Try other non-linear loads such as a regular old fluorescent tube, a small compressor, switching power supplies (with and without PFC), ... I'm willing to bet that the inverter is going to give up much sooner. Also, measure input voltage at the input terminals, not at the battery, so voltage drop over the cables is not a factor in efficiency measurements.
Good ideas. I will try to incorporate them. Regarding battery voltage, there is no voltage drop on my cables. Voltage at terminal is the same at inverter input.
Maybe check the wave form with a load other than just resistive. I didn't properly see what you used, I might have missed it. For $33 it's probably OK for around 300W constant? Thin cables and zero grounding seems dodgy.
I just bought a small AC inverter and the output was pure 140V DC. AND I LOVE IT! They should make more inverters this way as most devices turn into DC anyway. This is super efficient, cheaper and no buzzing noise. In this digital age why are we still replicating inefficient sine waves? I power my entire house with MSW inverters which are more efficient. Mine are modified, standard MSW inverters are just made wrong. Just bringing a different view of the issue.
That's called a boost converter, not AC inverter. We are using sine waves because some appliances still use AC, mainly motors and I think some cheap clocks. You can use what you're saying for things that are powered by a SMPS that rectifies AC anyways.
Sine waves are easier to switches, can power motors and transfomers but if You can use pure high DC then it makes sense. I did similar thing on much smaller level- I have 150VA square wave inverter- I used it in a car for mobile and laptop chargers. Mobile charger for some reason did not like that inverter- so I connected output to 310V DC rail, very easy to find it as it was just one 400V electrolytic capacitor. All chargers seem to work OK with this and for tools (motors) it is too weak anyway.
@@Tegelane5 With the push to use higher voltage FET even some small wall warts use voltage doubling to get over 400V. These modules with voltage doublers will not work with DC.
@@opera5714 I havent seen such powermodule after PC's which had 220/110V switch. But never wall warts. Those could be made work, in 220V mode 300+ DC is normal after rectifing. Capacitive dropper will also not work with pure DC and they work badly with modified squerwave.
@@Tegelane5 Those with a switch will work because they already have two extra diodes installed. Switch position becomes irrelevant with DC. Voltage doublers where line voltage is applied between the two filter capacitors do not have a DC path.
I've always wanted to test the inverter built into my car with my scope, but I use a car park, so I would have to power the scope from the car, which I feel like might cause issues. It seems wrong to power your scope from the same device you're testing it with. I couldn't tell you why. Just a gut feeling.
This scope works with batteries. However, if the scope is powered through the grid or inverter then it doesn't matter because they are two separate circuits.
Peak Power = Amount of power it draws from the wall and sends into your expensive device when it detonates into a flash Actuai power (lol): Divide optimistic Chinese watts by 3 to get real max continuous For powering a laptop and handful of devices under supervision this doesn't look to bad. Certainly a far cleaner sine wave than the modified sine waves when they first came out. For proper long installations a Victron inverter.
I randomly got one in LIDL. It was £27. It looks just like this. It was rated at 300w and 75% efficiency so might be the same with a different label. 300w sounds a sensible limit given that the one here isn't happy with 400+w, though I'd check the actual efficiency of mine. The lack of earth is worrying. It's a legal requirement in UK & EU buildings and common sense given random use of double insulated and of earthed appliances but I don't know about earthing regs for mobile homes, boats, etc.
Yes, it's actual rating is 300W. Efficiency was okay though, not 75%. There is no lack of earth, there is no ground neutral bond, which is common for this size inverters, unless specified otherwise. Earthing or grounding is quite complicated though. I have a video about it coming soon.
Sure, because the manufacturer did not do a good job of heat dissipation, you have to make your own heatsinks and install your own fans. Sounds logical to me 😅
While whats printed on it is misleading on the face of it $0.10 per watt (based on a usable 330w and $33 price) its quite good value for a pure sign wave inverter.
the cheap inverter says on the ad its recommended for 400w. The 1kw is for 1s surges only. At less than half the price its fair. Its their 2kw and 3kw models I worry about. The lack of a ground is because SEAsian countries don't have a ground line
Yes, I tested it some more and i found out that it can run 300W continually for an indefinite time. Going over that, will heat it up too much and overtemp protection would shut it down.
@@cleversolarpower there should be at least two considerations, MaxPowerForContinupusUse, MaxPowerFor1HourOfUse, as well and seems more important considerations than just the nameplate surge wattage. A quick rule of thumb is that 1/3 the rated wattage is acceptable for continuous use. Agree or disagree?
@@danek_hren when equipment has a low voltage short the ground can prevent damage ans premature aging of equipment. Its not enough to blow a fuse. Its not a biggie but happened to me
Those Easun gadgets are quite good and cheap. All depends on what model you get, as they are all copies it all depends on how good the original was. Hehe.
It seems it is a relabel one or just a cheap copy. Original, it is a 400-600 Watt inverter with 1000w peak only, maybe. EAsun has a name on the market, they're making a lot of big solar inverters too, with a decent quality.
Easun are the cheap copies 😀 They have a lot of interesting gear online, but if you are on a budget and don't care about longevity or reliability, then this inverter is for you.
I heard good reviews on EA Sun Power MPPT Solar Charge Controllers and I bought one. I works great, except when I turn on an air conditioner. The PV input then goes down and back up a few hundred watts every few seconds, over and over until I turn the air condition off. None of the other four various charge controllers do anything different when an air conditioner comes on. Rewiring did nothing either. I'd love to solve this and not have another terrible clone controller.
I would like to add that the digital watt meter for the batteries doesn't shift while the EA Sun Power is dancing up and down, with the cooling fans going on, off, on, and off repeatedly if the PV wattage input range is just right. I noticed the cooling fans are on top and blow down through the device, but the mounting instructions have some arrows making an upward flow in the graphic (bad instructions likely).
The AC outlet looks really bad with only the prongs sticking into it and no recess for the rest of the plug. Pull the plug out just a little and you have live exposed 230 V prongs. Now if it lacks voltage against true ground, there shouldn't be any risk of chock but you could potentially touch both prongs at the same time and zap yourself.
Seems like it's not bad, but just like with other low priced stuff from china you need to cut the continuous rating by 2. so I would feel safe with 250W load on this
A big minus, no European socket. Just a universal socket where the plug is only loosely inserted. I would prefer a 24V or 48V system. Then the currents are lower. The control board for these inverters is always the same. This can be adjusted with solder bridges: 110V, 220V, 50Hz, 60Hz, in any combination.
Thanks for your comment. I will look that brand up. I tested it some more after the video. I got 300W running for 10min+. More than this and the inverter shuts down.
got the 24v 1600w 800 continius for emergency only.. and used 8 lfp cylindrical 22 amp cells to make 28v bank .. i even added the earth inside comunicate with the outcell of the inverter super light emergency pack but only to charge tool batteries for lights and maybe a tv and laptop charger .. led lights i would use adjustable converter 24 to 12 even if i lose in cabling!!!,, i barely used it . and will let u know if it last long...... 24v was a choice because i knew cabling in it would be terible and i managed to half the abusive current even in low drows
@@cleversolarpower it worked flawlesly until 400 watts.. . cables are way too small to raise it and risk burn my apliances!!! so i bought a 60euros inverter to use half of its promissed capability .. even if you buy a victron 5000kva .. you wouldnt use it 80% all the time even if it promisses and CAN do it when temperatures are within standards
I'd recommend charging at 28.0 volts unless you only have cloudless days. Otherwise the mppt will overvolt the battery every time there is a sudden peak in solar output and the BMS will shutdown which is bad for the mppt. Victron choose 28.4v but I found that still a bit high.
In maths you would never say 'nought point twenty eight amps' (0.28A). If it was a 3 decimal place display would it become 'nought point two hundred and eighty amps' (0.280A). Of course not, it is always nought point two eight amps, not twenty eight.
i bought a cheap inverter wich is a 500w inverter and is the same size as this one, it can power up a 800w room heater but the battery i have is not enough for the inverter so it turn on and off in a bucle
@@cleversolarpower well i have only a homemade 12.6v 14ah li-ion battery and is the biggest battery i have for the inverter, it can provide up to 250Wh during 30 to 40 minutes
@@cleversolarpower u r right. I use It with Just a 120w TV for 4-5 hours almost every day. If It s really so delicate should be reported as Dangerous and scammy product
No point in comparing two products if you only mention the price of one of them. If I only needed to run a 100w load that needed a pure sign wave the cheap one is looking ok to me.
Oh yeah wire thickness and heat fins and a sturdy housing really help it to get more reliable... I think not. Also, heat fins on the outside while the fan is on the inside? Also a minus for the giandel one. Giandel just seems like another chinese inverter, just a bit more quality. The circuitry is really where it comes down to. No doubts the giandel is safer, it seems to be fully isolated while the esun isnt. Did you measure that? No.
Heat dissipation is a very important part on an inverter. The electronics will get less hot which means a longer lifespan. I would not touch the shell of the easun inverter when it was running a 300W load. While a 600W load on the giandel is cool to the touch. Giandel is an Australian company.
5:43 but boy... for 500W at 230V u don't need more tick wires... and where to ground???? btw its a cheap stuff but seems to me decent. almost perfect sine wave and good effiency if ur mesurements r correct. probably need a stronger fan and can run stable at 600W.
You get what you pay, there is no miracle. So with all power electronics, cheap no-brand items means that will be unable to work under the announced rates. Simply you double or triple to be sure. A 3000 watts costs around 60 Euros and will last years if used under 1000 watts. You can buy also a known brand made in China with better quality and some amenities like fuses, heat breaker, and 2 plugs. A 1500 watts costs 85€ in France and works perfectly. I've seen big brands that were pieces of junk. Name and high price do not mean automatically now high quality. That was 40 years ago, things have changed.
@@cleversolarpower Exact. To get a useful 500 watts with these no name junk it's advisable buy a nominal 1500 Watts at least, and even with this precaution you won't be sure it will work flawlessly or last a few years as the quality is aleatory and depending of the batches. In my opinion it's better to search and get information before as the too cheap is rarely a saving. A well made Chinese good reputation brand 1500W inverter with decent circuits, serious heat sinks, cables or good size, correct females plugs, and fuses is around 85-90€. It will work at 1000W forever. You can put the extra price to get an inverter with at least a 2 years guarantee sold by a reputable local company. Security, like good insurance, has a price. You have made the demonstration with your video that too cheap is not worth, with a poor 300 W you won't go very far, unless you need really less than 300W. And you'll have to add the price of good fuses or a dedicated breaker because a big 12V battery can give instantly a big bunch of amps in case of a short circuit.
I have a laptop that has an adapter of 130w, i'm unable to charge it with my 1200w inverter that offers continuous power supply of 600w... whenever I plug it in,the inverter begins to make some noise after some seconds 😢any advice I'm using 12v 100ah battery 1200w inverter 12v charge controller 150w all weather solar panel
@@cleversolarpower I get lot of them from the trash bin. There is many people throwing away big old HIFI class A amplificators with oversized aluminium heat dissipators.
Before using it, You should have taken a Permanent Blue marker pen and added ''1'' infront of the ''1600W'' label on the inverter, that would have increased its load capacity to 11,600 watts!
In my 55 years of life and some 35 years fooling around with inverters there is not ONE inverter i ever buy that i didnt remove it from its casing... Heat is the main issue with all these units, they maybe cheap but they work and work very well out of their housing. Size has ZERO bearing on how good it is and weight has even less! open both! the larger will just be a ton of wasted space. easy to add a bunch of weight to a unit and claim its because of Quality.
I don't agree. Weight is a very good indication of the amount of metal is in the body. More metal means better heat dissipation. You should not run your inverter without housing because then you will loose the flow or air that is required to cool down the inside of the inverter. You removed the 'duct' of airflow through the components. Let alone the danger of running an inverter without it's cover.
Should last if you keep it under 500w of use because we all know why its cheap gots to market that 1000+watts when its only half... at least it has a good power wave some dont even have a pure wave and will flicker led lights
What? That just sounds like gibberish to me. Isn't a load always connected between hot and common (live and neutral). Or does those terms mean something entirely else in the world of inverters?
@@MatsEngstrom I guess I should've explained it better, what I'm talking about is on the cheaper inverters you can go from the hot to ground and get half voltage or go common to ground and get half voltage together. They make the full 115 or 120, but you should be able to go from the common to ground and have no voltage.
In Europe we have 230V, no split phase. The voltage is only between the positive and the neutral, and that's 230V. In europe we dont use 115V because you need double the wire thickness.
i would rather say KNOW HOW TO FIX IT, and not to "expect max. 1 year". Those PSW inverters do have 2 parts: 1) PUMP inverters to get the high voltage 2) BUCK converter to get the sine wave. In my experience, one or two of the pumps can fail, and the device is still operational. But if the High Voltage part fails, it will stop functioning at once. You should know how to de-solder the mosfets and replace with new ones, including the gate resistors, etc. Most of the mosfets used by cheap chinese vendors are actually fakes, so they WILL fail quick and painfully. But once you replace them with real ones, (for a few bucks) they will last "forever". Getting an efficiency of 90% is actually nice, i was expecting around 80% with a standby current of 1 amps, this device is well worth its price. Also you mentioned that the thermal protection is well working ... That is an added bonus. Mostly they are a) over sensitive -or- b)do not work at all and toast everything connected, including your ALTERNATOR ...
Yes, it has a 40A fuse internally. 478/12V=39A. Over time this could heat up the fuse and blow it. The fuse inside would not be good quality as well. So it could be you got a fuse that trips early.
Here in Germany, it would be considered even cheaper since the Euro has a higher value. Though in India and such, products usually are a lot cheaper (I always get a shock at having to pay like 2€ for a bag of chips when returning from another country).
I bought a 5000W cheap Chinese inverter 3 years ago…..still running …. of course i did not buy this to draw 5000W....I bought it because it is 2500W continuous and of course i don't use it to draw 2500W because that would be retarded…..why would you use a device at is max power all the time.....2200W is the max i use. (automatic fuse protected)
A higher rated inverter draws more idle power. You have a 2500W inverter, not 5000W because the surge is non-existent in high frequency inverters. You should use wire and fuse sizes according to 2500W and not 2200W.
u compare a 33 dollar inverter with @ 96 dollar one and u call the cheaper one trash? well duh compare it to something in that price range Einstein or avoid this useless opinions
You should never buy and high frequency, transformerless inverter from any manufacturer, no matter how large or small. Even the larger 6kWm 12kW and 18kW units are absolute junk. They all offer much shorter life expectancies, no galvanic isolation and far poorer surge capacities. If you want an inverter that's going to last and perform, then you need to buy a low frequency, transformer based inverter.
3 месяца назад+10
First of all, there are no _transformerless_ inverters. They all have either high frequency or low frequency transformers to step up the voltage from battery to mains level. And, either can fail the exact same, from transients or glitches that cause a shoot-trough condition.
Pardon me. I assumed that you were knowledgeable enough to know that I meant output transformerless inverters. And no, you are mistaken, output transformerkess inverters and output transformer based inverters do not fail in the exact same way because output transformerless inverters no not provide galvanic isolation between its high voltage DC stage and its AC output which can damage your AC appliances. Output transformer based inverters do provide galvanic isolation.
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A simple and clear review with no gimmicks or annoying music. Very nicely done. Thank you.
Thanks for the comment!
Agreed. Wholeheartedly. I just found the channel, but I LOVE the straight forward format. You get what you come for, nothing else. Although, music CAN be tolerable if done properly. Ie, in a way that you don't realize it was done at all. Subtlety. Not blasting music over every bit of dialogue (monologue?) because they seem to be terrified of dead air. But, I think that's the case for any sort of editing in post.
Except the heat disappation, the quality is actually suprisingly good. It gives you good efficiency with nice sinewave. I would add fans and additional aluminium heatsinking and it could be a nice inverter.
If electronics get hot the lifespan will reduce. If you are adding fans and a heatsink, you are better off buying a better brand. You will spend a similar amount of money. Putting a golden ring on a monkey doesn't make it beautiful.
@@cleversolarpower No, but a golden ring will increase the resale value of the monkey.
I have bought a "1600W" version and it has exploded when powering 600W heater 😀
@@cleversolarpowernah, upgrading it won't even amount to 5$, There's so much 'for future projects' junk laying around that I want to throw it away.
Good value for money for sure.
I have the same for 3-4 years ,i payed even mor cheap 22$ on ali express ,is still working ,i use it for caravan to power All-In-One 27 inch Acer computer and few other electronic that need 220V and for that it works Ok,i dont put some big load on it
Thanks for sharing your experience. Is it turned on for 3-4 years? Or did you turn it on when needed?
It still works because you don't use it very often.
@@cleversolarpower I turn on when needed,like 2 days a week
I had the same one but 1500w one powering 2 fridges, a freezer, and sometimes a 1000w deep well pump (it would only work for 30 seconds with that turned on, after 30 seconds it would trip the over current protection and i had to turn the inverter off and on again)
I used it for half a year constantly on to power my stuff and it had no problems, after that i sold it and bought a Victron 5000VA one
@@dangerousdoggo5465 for inductive load you need like 6times more power, because of inrush current
If you want to buy any Chinese inverter without any issues, multiply your total load by X3
Assuming your total watts is 1000watts its better you buy 3000watts inverter.
Thats what i did and am enjoying my 3000watts inverter for more than 4yrs ans still counting
I think the problem with having an overly large inverter compared to the actual used AC power is that it has a larger idle power consumtion and perhaps lower efficiency also when used.
@@skunkjobb My 3000 eats one amp in idle (12v). One extra fan permanent on when working and is already two years old powering 200-300w worth of electronics
@@ketelin4285sounds like 10x power overhead not 3x
U mean this EASUN Inverter???@@ketelin4285
The lack of an earth terminal on the socket isn't a problem. Most of these portable inverters, including the Giandel, are setup for I class supply, ie the inverter does not supply ground (earth). Specifically there is no connection between the neutral output and the earth pin, if there even is an earth pin. When you see a wire connecting the earth pin in the socket to the chassis, such as the in Giandel, the inverter is IT class. Search for IT, TT, TN-C and TN-C-S to learn more about this.
Regardless there is no situation where this arrangement is dangerous without what is referred to as a double fault, ie there has to be two insulation failures in order for you to get a shock or worse.
I have a 2200 watt giandel I run a 6000btu window ac from. About 500 running watts. Is it safe to run my ac and should I ground the chassis?
@@user-kl2zs3kp7d Good question. It comes down to the aircon. Inverter types are much easier to run since they don't have that big motor start draw. If it's an old type that has a purely mechanical thermostat that is capable of short cycling the line operated compressor you'll probably find it overloads your inverter if the compressor tries to start under a high pressure situation causing the inverter to turn off its output. I have a Fujitsu ASTG09KMTC inverter AC which a Giandel 2000W 240V/50Hz inverter runs without any problems at all. That AC is rated at 2.5kW of cooling or, if my calculation is correct, about 8500 BTU.
As far as grounding the chassis of the inverter goes, I'd be happy enough to run it without being grounded but you should do what ever your local regulations tell you. I will say this though, don't go hacking around the insides of the inverter. That's quite dangerous. Just plug your appliances into it as intended.
@@user-kl2zs3kp7d yeah, it's safe
@@retrozmachine1189 Yes when my wifi was plugged in as well it shut down when the compressor kicked on maybe 10% of the time but no issues since I unplugged the wifi. Its got just enough! Thank you.
I've had this inverter for a year and a half and it does it's job for powering the lights and charging a few laptops and phones in a offgrid house/hut during the weekends in the summer. If that's all that you need it is very good price/performance. I have never tried powering an actual appliance with it though as I'm sure it won't work.
91% efficient is honestly amazing compared to how things used to be.
Maybe electronics begninners can finally stop going through the "Let's DIY some 12vdc power distribution stuff" that we all seem to have done.
I have the 1100w continuous version of that cheap Chinese inverter. I've had it for 2 years. I use it for a 1000w air fryer and a 800w hot water heater every day. It's never failed or shutdown on me. I've only replaced the fan as it got a bit noisy. Think I paid £40.
Isn't it common knowledge that peak and constant wattage are 2 different things? You should never go beyond 500 watt, peak is only a second maybe.
Yeah, still good to know that this one has a max constant wattage of at most 400W, probably more like 300W to 350W. It turned off at 420W for a heat emergency, so likely 400W is also not gonna run forever, especially in hot outside temperatures.
The case says 500W though.
Of course it is but it's marketed as a 1000 W inverter and it's the 1000 that is printed in big letters. The advertised power should be the constant power, not the one for short peaks. That's how it's done for all other inverters that I know off.
@@skunkjobb Generac also markets their generators for peak power. It's really sad.
@@divVerentOnly some of them. Their >3kw generators generally have their maximum continuous power as well as their surge capacity clearly marked
Peak power consumption is poorly defined anyway. Like what is peak power consumption?
Turning a pc power supply on can easily have a peak inrush current of 40 Amps or more. What is 10000 watts.
Not as bad as I expected, especially the efficiency at 250W seems to be really good.
Edit: Checked the prices and a legitimate 300W pure sine wave inverter starts at about 45$ here.
For cheap chinese brand always buy the spec at least more than twice your real needed power. It will work flawlessly and long lasting. The price will still be much cheaper than you buying a popular brand with a much lower power spec. And even if you buy popular brand once it burned you still void the warranty because they will say you overloaded and burned it so no warranty. 🗿
Long lasting would be debatable 😄
You're right. That way you won't go wrong
I got a cheap 1000 watt pure sinewave inverter for 80$ on amazon that does rated power (Included cables are a bit inadequate though so I upgraded to thick 1/0 gauge to minimize voltage drop and prevent overheating at full power)
and it works fantastic. for 80$ it's a steal. does rated power (full 1000 watts continuous) and doesnt overheat. it's a bit large but its strong. Can start a full window air conditioner (350 watts operation) easily. and full size shop vacuum cleaner.
120v AC and 12 volts DC. Works great with my 100 amp hour 12-volt AGM lead acid battery setup. I use it as a backup electric generator in case of a power outage or emergency.
I got a cheap $100 USD 5000W inverter after using this exact 1000e inverter. I can tell you the difference is night and day. The 5000w is far more efficient maybe double and the sinewave is incredible without it my electronics chug power.
I can't stress enough how badass my cheap 5000w inverter is. Life saving and efficient.
I have a very similar one, about same size, except mine only claims 300W. Works ok for low power loads like phone chargers etc, the biggest problem is the low input voltage cut off is not adjustable and as it's meant to be used in cars and not drain the battery too much to be able to start the engine it cuts off at 12.5V which makes the usable capacity of the batteries quite small.
Yes you can change it; change the resistor.
Really a nice and complete test. I was testing the exact same device yesterday with a 250W load and 3S 117Ah Li-ion battery. Despite good battery cables it drops about 400mV somewhere so it shuts down prematurely. It was working for 3 hours and 20 minutes. Since it is so dirty cheap, it has the potential to be upgraded to become a small UPS. The PCBs are surprisingly well built and I really don't know where they make any profit on this. Maybe I should also note, that the output voltage was falling when the battery was depleting, at the end it was only 200V, but that is OK for most of the stuff.
It could be because of voltage drop under load. Not familiar with li-ion though. Profit would be because of volume and no possibility for a return. I wouldn't recommend it though.
Inverters have come so far since i last tested them.i bought a few in the 90s.pretty crazy that inverter is about the size of a dvm now.great job😃
It's engineered with the cheapest set of components they could find. On paper they do provide 500W / 1000W RMS but in reality it will likely burn up after a few hour, days of running time. And that is the difference in between a real 500 and a sub-500W inverter. The voltage output quality with a expensive one is likely much cleaner, and better for your equipment then that cheap thing. It's good to run low loads such as 200 ~ 300W's off of it, it will likely last longer. And yes you can increase the cooling and add tricks to make it live or work longer, but eventually you'll run into the cheap components MBTF's, if they have any.
any inverter to last long, you have to get double your load capacity! Like your daily average is 700W, get a 1500W inverter! It'll degrade so slowly due to heating! My 1$ advice as a solar tech! Ive installed all types of inverters, experience tell me so! From the cheapest chinese to expensive German, US & chinese inverters
How do you make Earth of 12 Volt DC???
It's an isolated circuit, so where do you get an earth connection????
In theory one of the poles _is_ earth in many common applications. E.g. most cars have the negative battery pole collected to the chassis, which effectively makes it the ground.
But as that depends on the concrete application (and even some cars have plus on chassis), it'd be wrong to "hardcode" it. Would make sense to at least have a switch for whether to put + or - on ground (other valid options could be "none of them" or "a proper type capacitor to one of them"), or else you may get a huge problem if the case of what you're powering touches the car's chassis.
Obviously none of these options are perfect, so a 4th option - the most important one - should be an option for an external ground connection.
@@divVerent Ground it's not the same as Earth. In 12 V DC there will be a plus and a minus. If using an inverter to make 230 V AC, there still is no Earth. You can make an artificial Earth from Neutral, so a RCD can be put in front of the load. But often it will be a IT-network. Inverter/chargers on ships has no Earth except when they are connected to shore power, then Earth is part of the shore power.
stick a metal rod into the ground with moist water and table salt.. it will make a good ground connection!
Good test buddy, one thing I’d like to test if I wanted to know how reliable it was, would be to stick a thermocouple on the IGBT heatsink inside and monitor the temperature when you put the load on with a moderate amount of current. Then make sure that the operating temperature stays well below where the IGBTs will temperature derate, probably somewhere around 80 degrees C then do the same with the maximum rated power and see if it can sustain the power into the load without the over temperature derate point being reached.
Finally, I would then gradually increase the load current until the unit goes into temperature shut down and see what temperature it does shutdown at. Is the temperature value of the IGBTs at shutdown close to a suitable deration value for the IGBTs ie, probably well lower than 100 degrees C. It’s important to remember that as the temperature goes into the deration range the devices rated power output must be scaled down by the rated % per degree C otherwise the life of the IGBTwill be reduced and the risk of failure will increase.
I found that most of these cheaper Asian made inverters are not only falsely advertising the wattage, but the title also says " full sine wave" when they are actually modified sine wave. Often you can scroll down in the detailed description to find the word "modified". This makes a difference with motors like a refrigerator or sensitive electronics.
It is worth knowing with the power ratings have a generally only advertise peak. It is generally on listing photos so if you really want to know what the continuous power rating as you could potentially zoom into these photos.
Good and eye opening video, thanks for the great job
Thanks for the comment and the sub!
Fine for light duty use for charging laptops.
yea i think 250-300watts max safe area
I have a laptop that has an adapter of 130w, i'm unable to charge it with my 1200w inverter that offers continuous power supply of 600w... whenever I plug it in,the inverter begins to make some noise after some seconds 😢any advice
I'm using 12v 100ah battery
1200w inverter
12v charge controller
150w all weather solar panel
Battery voltage/current too low. Inverter fault. @@marshallzink7282
i found out that is is better to power your laptop/phone without an invertiert. i got for my camper 12v laptop and pd charger. no double losses while converting 12vdc in 230vac and than in the charger back to 5-18vdc. 🤷♂️
@@marshallzink7282 For most inverters, that noise (assuming it's a beep or buzzer) means the battery voltage/current is too low or there's a problem with the inverter. If it's a different noise the inverter probably has a major issue.
Try other non-linear loads such as a regular old fluorescent tube, a small compressor, switching power supplies (with and without PFC), ...
I'm willing to bet that the inverter is going to give up much sooner.
Also, measure input voltage at the input terminals, not at the battery, so voltage drop over the cables is not a factor in efficiency measurements.
Good ideas. I will try to incorporate them. Regarding battery voltage, there is no voltage drop on my cables. Voltage at terminal is the same at inverter input.
Maybe check the wave form with a load other than just resistive. I didn't properly see what you used, I might have missed it. For $33 it's probably OK for around 300W constant? Thin cables and zero grounding seems dodgy.
I think it was like hairdryer, so motor was also connected
Wow, cheap Chinese one is actually not bad!
It says right on the box Actual power 500W.
1000W is short term only.
For 35€ is a bargain.
28€ actually, if you live in the EU.🤑
I just bought a small AC inverter and the output was pure 140V DC. AND I LOVE IT! They should make more inverters this way as most devices turn into DC anyway. This is super efficient, cheaper and no buzzing noise. In this digital age why are we still replicating inefficient sine waves? I power my entire house with MSW inverters which are more efficient. Mine are modified, standard MSW inverters are just made wrong. Just bringing a different view of the issue.
That's called a boost converter, not AC inverter. We are using sine waves because some appliances still use AC, mainly motors and I think some cheap clocks. You can use what you're saying for things that are powered by a SMPS that rectifies AC anyways.
Sine waves are easier to switches, can power motors and transfomers but if You can use pure high DC then it makes sense. I did similar thing on much smaller level- I have 150VA square wave inverter- I used it in a car for mobile and laptop chargers. Mobile charger for some reason did not like that inverter- so I connected output to 310V DC rail, very easy to find it as it was just one 400V electrolytic capacitor. All chargers seem to work OK with this and for tools (motors) it is too weak anyway.
@@Tegelane5 With the push to use higher voltage FET even some small wall warts use voltage doubling to get over 400V. These modules with voltage doublers will not work with DC.
@@opera5714 I havent seen such powermodule after PC's which had 220/110V switch. But never wall warts. Those could be made work, in 220V mode 300+ DC is normal after rectifing. Capacitive dropper will also not work with pure DC and they work badly with modified squerwave.
@@Tegelane5 Those with a switch will work because they already have two extra diodes installed. Switch position becomes irrelevant with DC. Voltage doublers where line voltage is applied between the two filter capacitors do not have a DC path.
I've always wanted to test the inverter built into my car with my scope, but I use a car park, so I would have to power the scope from the car, which I feel like might cause issues. It seems wrong to power your scope from the same device you're testing it with. I couldn't tell you why. Just a gut feeling.
This scope works with batteries. However, if the scope is powered through the grid or inverter then it doesn't matter because they are two separate circuits.
Peak Power = Amount of power it draws from the wall and sends into your expensive device when it detonates into a flash
Actuai power (lol): Divide optimistic Chinese watts by 3 to get real max continuous
For powering a laptop and handful of devices under supervision this doesn't look to bad. Certainly a far cleaner sine wave than the modified sine waves when they first came out. For proper long installations a Victron inverter.
I randomly got one in LIDL. It was £27. It looks just like this. It was rated at 300w and 75% efficiency so might be the same with a different label. 300w sounds a sensible limit given that the one here isn't happy with 400+w, though I'd check the actual efficiency of mine.
The lack of earth is worrying. It's a legal requirement in UK & EU buildings and common sense given random use of double insulated and of earthed appliances but I don't know about earthing regs for mobile homes, boats, etc.
Yes, it's actual rating is 300W. Efficiency was okay though, not 75%. There is no lack of earth, there is no ground neutral bond, which is common for this size inverters, unless specified otherwise. Earthing or grounding is quite complicated though. I have a video about it coming soon.
Heat issue is easily solve with more fan, may even add extra thermal mass inside case, cheap to do
Sure, because the manufacturer did not do a good job of heat dissipation, you have to make your own heatsinks and install your own fans. Sounds logical to me 😅
While whats printed on it is misleading on the face of it $0.10 per watt (based on a usable 330w and $33 price) its quite good value for a pure sign wave inverter.
Amazing value, you can't beat it.
If you like to be scammed and don't have trouble with it, then yes ✌
@@cleversolarpower Your choice of words does not foster cooperation.
the cheap inverter says on the ad its recommended for 400w. The 1kw is for 1s surges only. At less than half the price its fair. Its their 2kw and 3kw models I worry about. The lack of a ground is because SEAsian countries don't have a ground line
Yes, I tested it some more and i found out that it can run 300W continually for an indefinite time. Going over that, will heat it up too much and overtemp protection would shut it down.
Malaysia is SE Asia and it has mains earthing and RCCD breakers in houses
@@cleversolarpower there should be at least two considerations, MaxPowerForContinupusUse, MaxPowerFor1HourOfUse, as well and seems more important considerations than just the nameplate surge wattage.
A quick rule of thumb is that 1/3 the rated wattage is acceptable for continuous use. Agree or disagree?
"Lack of ground" so much paranoia 😂
@@danek_hren when equipment has a low voltage short the ground can prevent damage ans premature aging of equipment. Its not enough to blow a fuse. Its not a biggie but happened to me
Those Easun gadgets are quite good and cheap. All depends on what model you get, as they are all copies it all depends on how good the original was. Hehe.
It seems it is a relabel one or just a cheap copy. Original, it is a 400-600 Watt inverter with 1000w peak only, maybe. EAsun has a name on the market, they're making a lot of big solar inverters too, with a decent quality.
Easun are the cheap copies 😀 They have a lot of interesting gear online, but if you are on a budget and don't care about longevity or reliability, then this inverter is for you.
I heard good reviews on EA Sun Power MPPT Solar Charge Controllers and I bought one. I works great, except when I turn on an air conditioner. The PV input then goes down and back up a few hundred watts every few seconds, over and over until I turn the air condition off. None of the other four various charge controllers do anything different when an air conditioner comes on. Rewiring did nothing either. I'd love to solve this and not have another terrible clone controller.
I would like to add that the digital watt meter for the batteries doesn't shift while the EA Sun Power is dancing up and down, with the cooling fans going on, off, on, and off repeatedly if the PV wattage input range is just right. I noticed the cooling fans are on top and blow down through the device, but the mounting instructions have some arrows making an upward flow in the graphic (bad instructions likely).
The AC outlet looks really bad with only the prongs sticking into it and no recess for the rest of the plug. Pull the plug out just a little and you have live exposed 230 V prongs. Now if it lacks voltage against true ground, there shouldn't be any risk of chock but you could potentially touch both prongs at the same time and zap yourself.
IMHO, every one of those should prominently list the peak and continuous running watts.
Thats what we would like to see. It's mostly with cheap brands though.
Thank you for being objective with this affilated review! :)
If I don't like it, I don't recommend it. Reputation is everything ✌
Seems like it's not bad, but just like with other low priced stuff from china you need to cut the continuous rating by 2. so I would feel safe with 250W load on this
I got 1 from AliExpress very cheap it’s less than the capacity but still okay almost 3 years still going on… 25 CAD we expect too much…
I want a car for that money!
A big minus, no European socket. Just a universal socket where the plug is only loosely inserted.
I would prefer a 24V or 48V system. Then the currents are lower.
The control board for these inverters is always the same. This can be adjusted with solder bridges: 110V, 220V, 50Hz, 60Hz, in any combination.
Yes, the socket is loose. Higher voltage is better indeed.
Brother in Chinese products W doesn't mean watt its only W the inverter you testing its actually Changi inverter 300watt maximum stable on 170watt
Thanks for your comment. I will look that brand up. I tested it some more after the video. I got 300W running for 10min+. More than this and the inverter shuts down.
Such small inverters are not designed for heavy loads like heaters and blowers these are mainly for lighting and charging
Correct.
got the 24v 1600w 800 continius for emergency only.. and used 8 lfp cylindrical 22 amp cells to make 28v bank .. i even added the earth inside comunicate with the outcell of the inverter super light emergency pack but only to charge tool batteries for lights and maybe a tv and laptop charger .. led lights i would use adjustable converter 24 to 12 even if i lose in cabling!!!,, i barely used it . and will let u know if it last long...... 24v was a choice because i knew cabling in it would be terible and i managed to half the abusive current even in low drows
Might be good for emergencies, but it also has to be reliable if it's for emergency use.
@@cleversolarpower it worked flawlesly until 400 watts.. . cables are way too small to raise it and risk burn my apliances!!! so i bought a 60euros inverter to use half of its promissed capability .. even if you buy a victron 5000kva .. you wouldnt use it 80% all the time even if it promisses and CAN do it when temperatures are within standards
it looks like the closure plate with the fan is located on the wrong side. It should blow over the fet area to keep them cool
I was thinking the same thing, flip the fan end and the plug end over (plug under had air vents on the wrong side also.
it was designed to cool the thin wires inside from melting...😃
Can you please do a video on 24V solar charging parameters with Victron MPPT, like to get your insight.
Charge at 28.8V for a 24V lifepo4 battery. Video coming about charging as soon as i finished the other videos in the pipeline.
I'd recommend charging at 28.0 volts unless you only have cloudless days. Otherwise the mppt will overvolt the battery every time there is a sudden peak in solar output and the BMS will shutdown which is bad for the mppt. Victron choose 28.4v but I found that still a bit high.
In maths you would never say 'nought point twenty eight amps' (0.28A). If it was a 3 decimal place display would it become 'nought point two hundred and eighty amps' (0.280A). Of course not, it is always nought point two eight amps, not twenty eight.
Sorry man, I'm still a human, not a robot 🤖
i bought a cheap inverter wich is a 500w inverter and is the same size as this one, it can power up a 800w room heater but the battery i have is not enough for the inverter so it turn on and off in a bucle
The battery voltage would drop below the allowable input voltage of the inverter. That's why it probably turned off.
@@cleversolarpower well i have only a homemade 12.6v 14ah li-ion battery and is the biggest battery i have for the inverter, it can provide up to 250Wh during 30 to 40 minutes
Can you test the giandel 2200 watt Ive been using it to power a 6000btu window ac its pretty awesome I think
i use same ali express inverter from more than 1 year , guess lucky if it s still working and never overheat
Then you must be using 300W or less. I did a few other tests and the maximum load continuous was 300W for 10min, then I turned it off.
@@cleversolarpower u r right. I use It with Just a 120w TV for 4-5 hours almost every day. If It s really so delicate should be reported as Dangerous and scammy product
Mine works for 3-4 years in caravan no problem ,just keep load for what it is
Thank you for having metric!
I know the pain 😄
No point in comparing two products if you only mention the price of one of them.
If I only needed to run a 100w load that needed a pure sign wave the cheap one is looking ok to me.
Oh yeah wire thickness and heat fins and a sturdy housing really help it to get more reliable... I think not. Also, heat fins on the outside while the fan is on the inside? Also a minus for the giandel one. Giandel just seems like another chinese inverter, just a bit more quality. The circuitry is really where it comes down to. No doubts the giandel is safer, it seems to be fully isolated while the esun isnt. Did you measure that? No.
Who cares about isolation tho lmao
@@danek_hren you shouldn't touch the output anyways
@@Robbedoes2 and i don't, it's on the inside of any device.
Heat dissipation is a very important part on an inverter. The electronics will get less hot which means a longer lifespan. I would not touch the shell of the easun inverter when it was running a 300W load. While a 600W load on the giandel is cool to the touch. Giandel is an Australian company.
Im very curious about the 60v model.
5:43 but boy... for 500W at 230V u don't need more tick wires... and where to ground???? btw its a cheap stuff but seems to me decent. almost perfect sine wave and good effiency if ur mesurements r correct. probably need a stronger fan and can run stable at 600W.
Can you try out the Victorian inverter and tell us how good it is plzzzzz 😢🎉🎉🎉🎉
Do they have coding cable so you can have 115v , 230v or oddly 280v ?
Any normal cable is suited for 1000V AC or DC, unless otherwise specified.
@@cleversolarpower not what I meant. The super cheap inverter usually have a possibility to change the output voltage. Can these do that aswell
Thanks
What dimension in reality does a fan heater and hair dryer run at 400 watts? try 4 killowats.
You get what you pay, there is no miracle. So with all power electronics, cheap no-brand items means that will be unable to work under the announced rates. Simply you double or triple to be sure. A 3000 watts costs around 60 Euros and will last years if used under 1000 watts.
You can buy also a known brand made in China with better quality and some amenities like fuses, heat breaker, and 2 plugs. A 1500 watts costs 85€ in France and works perfectly.
I've seen big brands that were pieces of junk. Name and high price do not mean automatically now high quality. That was 40 years ago, things have changed.
In this case, you didn't get what you paid for. 300W instead of 500W.
@@cleversolarpower Exact. To get a useful 500 watts with these no name junk it's advisable buy a nominal 1500 Watts at least, and even with this precaution you won't be sure it will work flawlessly or last a few years as the quality is aleatory and depending of the batches.
In my opinion it's better to search and get information before as the too cheap is rarely a saving.
A well made Chinese good reputation brand 1500W inverter with decent circuits, serious heat sinks, cables or good size, correct females plugs, and fuses is around 85-90€. It will work at 1000W forever.
You can put the extra price to get an inverter with at least a 2 years guarantee sold by a reputable local company. Security, like good insurance, has a price.
You have made the demonstration with your video that too cheap is not worth, with a poor 300 W you won't go very far, unless you need really less than 300W.
And you'll have to add the price of good fuses or a dedicated breaker because a big 12V battery can give instantly a big bunch of amps in case of a short circuit.
I have a laptop that has an adapter of 130w, i'm unable to charge it with my 1200w inverter that offers continuous power supply of 600w... whenever I plug it in,the inverter begins to make some noise after some seconds 😢any advice
I'm using 12v 100ah battery
1200w inverter
12v charge controller
150w all weather solar panel
What kind of noise? Beeping?
Battery fully charged? Pure sine wave inverter?
@@wallacegrommet9343 yes beeping
@@cleversolarpower I think battery power is not good enough
Heating problem is easy to solve, screw a decent block of aluminium as a base.
Which are free?
@@cleversolarpower I get lot of them from the trash bin. There is many people throwing away big old HIFI class A amplificators with oversized aluminium heat dissipators.
I would check the fan in it as is did not sound like it was working I think if it worked you would get more out of this inverter
It was running when the internals got warm. When there is no load on it, it doesn't turn on which makes sense.
Looks fine to me just fake numbers. More like 500 peak, 250 rms. $33 is a bit much, though.
I don't like to be sold fake numbers, do you?
I had a similar one of these rated 300w it sparked and my wires turned into a light bulb
You discovered free energy and you didnt even realize it!
I have bought a "1600W" version and it has exploded when powering 600W heater 😁🤣🤣🤣
Before using it, You should have taken a Permanent Blue marker pen and added ''1'' infront of the ''1600W'' label on the inverter, that would have increased its load capacity to 11,600 watts!
what is the name of the tool to check the graph of that voltage?
Oscilloscope
In my 55 years of life and some 35 years fooling around with inverters there is not ONE inverter i ever buy that i didnt remove it from its casing... Heat is the main issue with all these units, they maybe cheap but they work and work very well out of their housing.
Size has ZERO bearing on how good it is and weight has even less! open both! the larger will just be a ton of wasted space. easy to add a bunch of weight to a unit and claim its because of Quality.
I don't agree. Weight is a very good indication of the amount of metal is in the body. More metal means better heat dissipation. You should not run your inverter without housing because then you will loose the flow or air that is required to cool down the inside of the inverter. You removed the 'duct' of airflow through the components. Let alone the danger of running an inverter without it's cover.
Nice work
Should last if you keep it under 500w of use because we all know why its cheap gots to market that 1000+watts when its only half... at least it has a good power wave some dont even have a pure wave and will flicker led lights
I bought two 12v inverters from Walmart at $9.98ea they wouldn't even run a LED SHOP LIGHT 😢 They still have them at Walmart. 150watts
My condolences 😞
@@cleversolarpower yhea the power was so dirty one kinda flickered lol 😆
One test you didn't do, I know I prefer an inverter where the entire load is on the hot, not split between the hot and the common.
What? That just sounds like gibberish to me. Isn't a load always connected between hot and common (live and neutral). Or does those terms mean something entirely else in the world of inverters?
@@MatsEngstrom I guess I should've explained it better, what I'm talking about is on the cheaper inverters you can go from the hot to ground and get half voltage or go common to ground and get half voltage together. They make the full 115 or 120, but you should be able to go from the common to ground and have no voltage.
@@tom8592 Ah, I see. Thank you.
In Europe we have 230V, no split phase. The voltage is only between the positive and the neutral, and that's 230V. In europe we dont use 115V because you need double the wire thickness.
As if that's pure sine wave. Shows some manufacturers are ripping you off. Obviously more expensive are better quality but not 10x the quality.
The classic comment without watching the video. It was pure sine wave. He tested it under load with an oscilliscope.
@@procrastinator1842 I just watched the clip again sine wave looked good.
@@procrastinator1842I said it was sine wave 🤦
rewire it with thicker wires, add better fan and it's fine
No it's not. When a manufacturer sells you something rated for 500W, it should be rated for 500W and not 300W.
i would rather say KNOW HOW TO FIX IT, and not to "expect max. 1 year".
Those PSW inverters do have 2 parts:
1) PUMP inverters to get the high voltage
2) BUCK converter to get the sine wave.
In my experience, one or two of the pumps can fail, and the device is still operational.
But if the High Voltage part fails, it will stop functioning at once.
You should know how to de-solder the mosfets and replace with new ones, including the gate resistors, etc.
Most of the mosfets used by cheap chinese vendors are actually fakes, so they WILL fail quick and painfully.
But once you replace them with real ones, (for a few bucks) they will last "forever".
Getting an efficiency of 90% is actually nice, i was expecting around 80% with a standby current of 1 amps, this device is well worth its price.
Also you mentioned that the thermal protection is well working ... That is an added bonus.
Mostly they are a) over sensitive -or- b)do not work at all and toast everything connected, including your ALTERNATOR ...
How u charge battery with this ??
It's only for discharging. You need a lifepo4 battery charger.
Positive goes to the highest point on the roof, negative gets connected to the ground, then we wait for a thunderstorm to charge her up!
@@fidelcatsro6948 damn bro your life seem tough.keep it up don't lose
@@cleversolarpower ookk 👍
I bought the same inverter form aliexpress.its not 1000 watt.i got 478 watt before fuse blew on back of inverter.
Yes, it has a 40A fuse internally. 478/12V=39A. Over time this could heat up the fuse and blow it. The fuse inside would not be good quality as well. So it could be you got a fuse that trips early.
@@cleversolarpower no,tried it after first fuse blew second did as well.
33 dollars isn't cheap in my country im in philippens where 50 php is 1 dollar
Habibi come to India, here 1USD = 83 INR 😭
Here in Germany, it would be considered even cheaper since the Euro has a higher value. Though in India and such, products usually are a lot cheaper (I always get a shock at having to pay like 2€ for a bag of chips when returning from another country).
@@zetsubou3704 Nigeria is worst 😥, $1 = 1550 Ngn
Dont worry.. US Petrodollar coming to an end soon, no more monopoly over the 3rd world countries!
Viva Revolution!
Im still trying to get an inverter to recharge the input source battery and break laws of physics into realm of free energy from the ambient!
Good luck! Let me know when you find it 😁
that is a 500w inverter.
In a caravan, where is the earth even connected to? Seems a pointless gimmick.
Where ya from?
Belgium.
that cheapie is a massive fire hazard probably be ok for like a fan maby charge a low watt item with the inside cable and that poor solder quality
Solder quality was actually good. But advertising it as a 1,000W, and writing 500W in small letters and then turning out to be only 300W is criminal.
Nice
I bought a 5000W cheap Chinese inverter 3 years ago…..still running …. of course i did not buy this to draw 5000W....I bought it because it is 2500W continuous and of course i don't use it to draw 2500W because that would be retarded…..why would you use a device at is max power all the time.....2200W is the max i use. (automatic fuse protected)
A higher rated inverter draws more idle power. You have a 2500W inverter, not 5000W because the surge is non-existent in high frequency inverters. You should use wire and fuse sizes according to 2500W and not 2200W.
There is no such thing as point twenty eight.
Subscribed
one of these burnt down my motorhome 64k up in smoke.
Damn, they can get really hot indeed.
Plz loosen up your watch
Too late, my hand already fell off.
Pure s hit wave
aliexpress is better at this point
I got this one from aliexpress 😉
@@cleversolarpower idk how it got here, but I left this comment on a Louis Rossmann video about amazon
It's a 300 watt inverter, mislabeled. Not bad.
If I sold you a 300W inverter instead of a 500W inverter, you don't feel cheated?
@@cleversolarpower I have one. Bestec. Pure Sine Wave. Life goes on.
I've got a 12v gandel 1000W, at 12v I wouldn't go bigger as the wires get huge!
Yeah, and for mobile applications, you can go a bit bigger as it makes sense for alternator charging on 12 or 24V.
Thumbs down for that awful noise at the end.
Chinese rubbish. So many 2k & 3k inverters on eBay that have 600 or 800w continuous. Scam advertising.
You are spoiling the video! 😄
@@cleversolarpower Oops, sorry 😮😂
❤❤❤
u compare a 33 dollar inverter with @ 96 dollar one and u call the cheaper one trash? well duh
compare it to something in that price range Einstein
or avoid this useless opinions
If somebody sells you a 500W inverter, it should be 500W and not 300W. People don't have any standards anymore.
This is the cheapest junk I’ve seen why people buy this crap and endanger their families I don’t get it
Me neither.
You should never buy and high frequency, transformerless inverter from any manufacturer, no matter how large or small. Even the larger 6kWm 12kW and 18kW units are absolute junk. They all offer much shorter life expectancies, no galvanic isolation and far poorer surge capacities. If you want an inverter that's going to last and perform, then you need to buy a low frequency, transformer based inverter.
First of all, there are no _transformerless_ inverters. They all have either high frequency or low frequency transformers to step up the voltage from battery to mains level.
And, either can fail the exact same, from transients or glitches that cause a shoot-trough condition.
Pardon me. I assumed that you were knowledgeable enough to know that I meant output transformerless inverters. And no, you are mistaken, output transformerkess inverters and output transformer based inverters do not fail in the exact same way because output transformerless inverters no not provide galvanic isolation between its high voltage DC stage and its AC output which can damage your AC appliances. Output transformer based inverters do provide galvanic isolation.
@@quickquote1568 galvanized, as in sacrificial anode?