This helped me figure out the problem with my Spa - the toggle switch to one of the actuators was switched OFF, in the middle position... I simply switched it ON to the UP postion, and now my SPA drain works when in SPA mode. Thanks!
Your welcome. I’m glad our video assisted you in figuring out how to drain and use spa mode. Thanks for commenting and watching this video. Hopefully your a subscriber and please share this ideo out to others whom may also benefit
So the dipsticks have to always be in the the UP position for pool/spa mode to work?!? I had a new pool tech here and when he left, I could only control with the dipsticks. Before, everything worked!! Soo frustrated but I’m going to flip it UP to see if this fixes things!!
The toggle stick is a way to manually rotate the valve from one position to the other. Please keep in mind that the actuator valve has to be properly adjusted and set for the start / stop points where the valve needs to open and close. The toggle switch has 3 positions, the middle being OFF. The other two positions are for the open /close - start /stopping of the valve. Depending on what the valve is being used for. If it’s for Spa Mode, then you’ll have two of these automatic actuators. One for the spa main drain and the other for the spa return or Jets function. The best way to keep the toggle switch is to leave your pool in normal everyday circulation or what I will call “Pool Mode” where both pool and spa circulate together where the spa spills over into pool. If the actuators are properly set then the move the toggle switch to one of the positions and if the valve does not move then your in the right position. So I’m this function the Spa Main drain valve will be closed and the pool return & spa return will be half open allowing water to flow through both those pipes. Keep the toggles switches in this position and when every your elect to activate “Spa Mode” the valves will automatically rotate by themselves. I need to manually move it by toggle switch. If you still are having issues with tríese functions, it would be best to contact a professional who knows how to properly set up the internal cams of the actuator valve, the toggle switch positions and your electronic device that operates the actuator valves.
Thank you my friend. Pool service left the main actuator off, and this video had me up and running late on a warm Friday evening. Know much more about the actuators now also! 😎
Fantastic and straightforward troubleshooting and video. I had exactly this problem. Dipsticks controlled it fine, worried it was the board, swapped the intake and return connectors just to confirm it wasn't the board, and it still turned the 'good' valve actuator, but not the bad. Therefore, it's the 'bad' valve actuator. Nicely done.
My pleasure. Glad you were able to figure out and fix your issue. Thanks for watching this video and visiting our channel, be sure to watch other videos we upload.
Two Jandy actuators failed. The first one had an internal failure, the capacitor exploded, so I replaced the actuator (online, 2-day deliver).. The second one was pristine internally, the switch moved the motor in both directions and I troubleshot the board as described in the video. Before I ordered a second valve I checked the continuity of the cable between the board and the valve. Found an open circuit in the white wire (the cable was nicked by a weed whacker I think). There was enough extra cable to remove the bad portion and reattach inside the valve (no splice required). Reinstalled and works fine. Troubleshooting and looking for an easy, cheap repair made this a $200 repair with no service call. I figure I saved about $300-$400 by not having to call the pool company out.
You're video was great. I was able to test my actuator to learn which one wasn't working and confirm it wasn't my motherboard. I also reset the cams. :) The AA battery looking thing in actuator actually exploded in mine. Caused a mess inside the housing. Thanks for your help.
That AA battery looking thing that exploded is the motor run capacitor. It's a non-polarized (not electrolytic) type capacitor for the 24V AC motor in the actuator. Basically, non-polarized means you can install the capacitor in any orientation without worrying about a positive or negative polarity. I think mine is bad as well but haven't done much testing yet. The bad capacitor in my Jandy has a value of 35uf (micro-farad) and rated for 150 volts (mine didn't explode so I could still read the values on it). I looked in a Hayward valve and it's the same value which makes sense since they are both 24VAC valves. I'm currently looking for an online source for a replacement capacitor. I saw a few pool places online that sell them for about 20 bucks. There might be something else wrong with it, but it might be worth taking a $20 shot at fixing a $150 to $200 actuator. www.wholesalepoolequipment.com/parts/parts-lights-auto-controllers/zodiac-2577-capacitor-for-jandy-r-24-v-valve-actuator-JDY-201-7916
Great video. I to have a Jandy setup. Going on year 2 of our new pool. My question is if your spa is draining while in spa mode and not filling simultaneously and the valves of the actuators are moving freely what then can be the problem?
You’ll have to check the placement of the connection to see if there are in correct socket on board. Then check to ensure the dip stick on the actuator valve is in correct position.
My spa was draining just today, I noticed my valve actuator was only turning about 95 percent of the way, so it was slowly draining. Is this a sign that it’s going bad? I just set it back and forth a few times and it started going fully in both directions, but I’d rather take care of it before it goes fully out if that’s the case.
It’s also possible that something got lodged or wedged in the middle, causing the actuator not to be able to fully open or close. Before replacing, you can always disassemble the actuator from the valve and place it to the side. Remove the remaining screws from the top of the valve and check inside for anything. If you find nothing there, check the actuator by manually, throwing the switch, and seeing if the actuator rotates to both sides fully. If it does not, or if you see it sputtering as it’s rotating, this may be the sign that the actuator is failing at that point you should consider replacement.
My valves actuators (spa/pool suction & spa/pool return) move with the switch and when using the controller. The spa empty when I set the “spa mode”, all the water goes back to the pool. It is draining the water faster than it can return back to the spa. The Jets on the spa work and are adding water at a high speed but not fast enough to refill it-water spa suction is emptying the spa super fast. What could it be? While in spa mode, to refill the spa I manually use the switch to move the spa/pool suction valve half way so it closes the spa suction a little bit… do you think the filters need to be cleaned? New valve actuator or controller? Which valve though?
Based on your described issue it sounds like the return actuator valve is not set properly. In Spa Mode, The return valve should 100% close off the pool return pvc pipe and be 100% open to spa return pvc. It sound like the suction actuator valve is right. Check on the return side actuator valve when you activate spa mode. If it is in a middle position of the pool / spa pipe this is wrong and would need the cams to be internally adjusted.
My pool spa valve was emptying out the spa on occasion since the spa is not used much-I noticed the spa was empty so I put my system in pool filtering mode which the spa fills and then spills into the pool and no water was coming into the spa and I noticed the JVA2400 valve handle was not at a right angle and I touched it and it began to rotate automatically and the spa filled up as normal should I replace the valve?
If the valve moves when micro switch is activated, then most likely the valve is not bad. Most likely not properly adjusted, or not setup in proper mode.
Hey this video is awesome I found the switch on the bottom of the valve. I hit the switch and it closed and the water stayed in the jacuzzi. I’m a little confused. From here how do I know what the problem is weather is the control panel or the electric valve?
Typically if the electronic valve rotates when you flip the selector switch of the valve and it turns, most likely the valve is good and the issue could be coming from the main control board. These valves receive a electrical current from the main board that activates the valve to turn. If this is not happening when you activate the valve from the controller, then it’s a good chance issues with the board and not the valve. At this point hire a pool repair company that knows how to operate your control panel and diagnose the problem further for you. Do this before you go replacing things.
Ok try this... toggle the switch to one side and see if there’s any movement in handle then switch to center position (off). Remove the 4 large screws that bolt actuator to valve body and remove the actuator from valve. Remove the 4 screws of the valve. Then unscrew the nut off the handle and place handle and nut on valve body diverter and screw it on. Pull up and remove the diverter and check to see if there is any debris, toy, or something blocking the diverter from rotating. You can also check valve movement before removing the diverter off the body. If you can’t move it manually then something could be stuck inside valve which is preventing the actuator from rotating diverter. I suggested to toggle the switch to one side in order for the actuator to possibly pinch and hold any possible debris in its place. Oh and do all this with the pool pump off.
So basically you have a bad Jandy valve even though it works manually with the dipstick? I am having the same issue with mine, I thought it was the solar controller but after installing it I am still having the same issue. Should I order a new Jandy valve? Thanks for the video!
This helped me figure out the problem with my Spa - the toggle switch to one of the actuators was switched OFF, in the middle position... I simply switched it ON to the UP postion, and now my SPA drain works when in SPA mode. Thanks!
Your welcome. I’m glad our video assisted you in figuring out how to drain and use spa mode. Thanks for commenting and watching this video. Hopefully your a subscriber and please share this ideo out to others whom may also benefit
So the dipsticks have to always be in the the UP position for pool/spa mode to work?!? I had a new pool tech here and when he left, I could only control with the dipsticks. Before, everything worked!!
Soo frustrated but I’m going to flip it UP to see if this fixes things!!
The toggle stick is a way to manually rotate the valve from one position to the other. Please keep in mind that the actuator valve has to be properly adjusted and set for the start / stop points where the valve needs to open and close. The toggle switch has 3 positions, the middle being OFF. The other two positions are for the open /close - start /stopping of the valve. Depending on what the valve is being used for. If it’s for Spa Mode, then you’ll have two of these automatic actuators. One for the spa main drain and the other for the spa return or Jets function.
The best way to keep the toggle switch is to leave your pool in normal everyday circulation or what I will call “Pool Mode” where both pool and spa circulate together where the spa spills over into pool. If the actuators are properly set then the move the toggle switch to one of the positions and if the valve does not move then your in the right position. So I’m this function the Spa Main drain valve will be closed and the pool return & spa return will be half open allowing water to flow through both those pipes. Keep the toggles switches in this position and when every your elect to activate “Spa Mode” the valves will automatically rotate by themselves. I need to manually move it by toggle switch. If you still are having issues with tríese functions, it would be best to contact a professional who knows how to properly set up the internal cams of the actuator valve, the toggle switch positions and your electronic device that operates the actuator valves.
Thank you my friend. Pool service left the main actuator off, and this video had me up and running late on a warm Friday evening. Know much more about the actuators now also! 😎
Your welcome
Fantastic and straightforward troubleshooting and video. I had exactly this problem. Dipsticks controlled it fine, worried it was the board, swapped the intake and return connectors just to confirm it wasn't the board, and it still turned the 'good' valve actuator, but not the bad. Therefore, it's the 'bad' valve actuator. Nicely done.
Thanks for you vid. I didn’t know there was a switch because the guy who did my pool put the valves in backwards. I was able to Figure out the problem
My pleasure. Glad you were able to figure out and fix your issue. Thanks for watching this video and visiting our channel, be sure to watch other videos we upload.
Two Jandy actuators failed. The first one had an internal failure, the capacitor exploded, so I replaced the actuator (online, 2-day deliver).. The second one was pristine internally, the switch moved the motor in both directions and I troubleshot the board as described in the video. Before I ordered a second valve I checked the continuity of the cable between the board and the valve. Found an open circuit in the white wire (the cable was nicked by a weed whacker I think). There was enough extra cable to remove the bad portion and reattach inside the valve (no splice required). Reinstalled and works fine. Troubleshooting and looking for an easy, cheap repair made this a $200 repair with no service call. I figure I saved about $300-$400 by not having to call the pool company out.
You're video was great. I was able to test my actuator to learn which one wasn't working and confirm it wasn't my motherboard. I also reset the cams. :) The AA battery looking thing in actuator actually exploded in mine. Caused a mess inside the housing. Thanks for your help.
Good work. Thanks for watching and learning
That AA battery looking thing that exploded is the motor run capacitor. It's a non-polarized (not electrolytic) type capacitor for the 24V AC motor in the actuator. Basically, non-polarized means you can install the capacitor in any orientation without worrying about a positive or negative polarity. I think mine is bad as well but haven't done much testing yet. The bad capacitor in my Jandy has a value of 35uf (micro-farad) and rated for 150 volts (mine didn't explode so I could still read the values on it). I looked in a Hayward valve and it's the same value which makes sense since they are both 24VAC valves. I'm currently looking for an online source for a replacement capacitor. I saw a few pool places online that sell them for about 20 bucks. There might be something else wrong with it, but it might be worth taking a $20 shot at fixing a $150 to $200 actuator.
www.wholesalepoolequipment.com/parts/parts-lights-auto-controllers/zodiac-2577-capacitor-for-jandy-r-24-v-valve-actuator-JDY-201-7916
Thanks for this great troubleshooting tip.
Your welcome. If you found this very informative, please share it out. Also, become a subscriber of our channel. Thanks
Great video. I to have a Jandy setup.
Going on year 2 of our new pool.
My question is if your spa is draining while in spa mode and not filling simultaneously and the valves of the actuators are moving freely what then can be the problem?
The spa return actuator is not turning at all, setup the right way,
Thank you. Your video pointed me to the problem 🙏
Your welcome. Thanks for watching and commenting. Pls subu
Thanks man really appreciate it! Straight to the point very precise instructions. None of the bullshit RUclips blah blah blah blah blah.
Your welcome thanks for watching and commenting
You save me money. Thank you
I’m glad to read this. Thanks for commenting
Very helpful!! Thank you!
You are so welcome!
Awesome tip, many thanks
Very useful. My valves move accordingly when I switch it to Fill or Drain. They do not respond when I switch to Auto or Spa. Any tips?
You’ll have to check the placement of the connection to see if there are in correct socket on board. Then check to ensure the dip stick on the actuator valve is in correct position.
My spa was draining just today, I noticed my valve actuator was only turning about 95 percent of the way, so it was slowly draining. Is this a sign that it’s going bad? I just set it back and forth a few times and it started going fully in both directions, but I’d rather take care of it before it goes fully out if that’s the case.
It’s also possible that something got lodged or wedged in the middle, causing the actuator not to be able to fully open or close. Before replacing, you can always disassemble the actuator from the valve and place it to the side. Remove the remaining screws from the top of the valve and check inside for anything. If you find nothing there, check the actuator by manually, throwing the switch, and seeing if the actuator rotates to both sides fully. If it does not, or if you see it sputtering as it’s rotating, this may be the sign that the actuator is failing at that point you should consider replacement.
My valves actuators (spa/pool suction & spa/pool return) move with the switch and when using the controller. The spa empty when I set the “spa mode”, all the water goes back to the pool. It is draining the water faster than it can return back to the spa. The Jets on the spa work and are adding water at a high speed but not fast enough to refill it-water spa suction is emptying the spa super fast. What could it be? While in spa mode, to refill the spa I manually use the switch to move the spa/pool suction valve half way so it closes the spa suction a little bit… do you think the filters need to be cleaned? New valve actuator or controller? Which valve though?
Based on your described issue it sounds like the return actuator valve is not set properly.
In Spa Mode, The return valve should 100% close off the pool return pvc pipe and be 100% open to spa return pvc. It sound like the suction actuator valve is right. Check on the return side actuator valve when you activate spa mode. If it is in a middle position of the pool / spa pipe this is wrong and would need the cams to be internally adjusted.
@@EliteSwimmingPoolsTV Thank you for your time. It turned out that the issue was a bad valve check flapper.
in spa mode, how far should the handle turn, mine goes 180 degrees. Is it supposed to stop half way
My pool spa valve was emptying out the spa on occasion since the spa is not used much-I noticed the spa was empty so I put my system in pool filtering mode which the spa fills and then spills into the pool and no water was coming into the spa and I noticed the JVA2400 valve handle was not at a right angle and I touched it and it began to rotate automatically and the spa filled up as normal should I replace the valve?
If the valve moves when micro switch is activated, then most likely the valve is not bad. Most likely not properly adjusted, or not setup in proper mode.
Thanks!
You bet!
Good stuff. Thanks!
Hey this video is awesome I found the switch on the bottom of the valve. I hit the switch and it closed and the water stayed in the jacuzzi. I’m a little confused. From here how do I know what the problem is weather is the control panel or the electric valve?
Typically if the electronic valve rotates when you flip the selector switch of the valve and it turns, most likely the valve is good and the issue could be coming from the main control board. These valves receive a electrical current from the main board that activates the valve to turn. If this is not happening when you activate the valve from the controller, then it’s a good chance issues with the board and not the valve. At this point hire a pool repair company that knows how to operate your control panel and diagnose the problem further for you. Do this before you go replacing things.
Hi So there's no way to fix the value if it not getting the signal you have to replace. Thank you
Haven’t seen these valves fixed at component level. When they fail, you replace the actuator.
What if the handle isn’t moving when flipping the switch to on1 or on2 - it makes a noise like it’s trying to rotate but it can’t. Thnks!
Ok try this... toggle the switch to one side and see if there’s any movement in handle then switch to center position (off).
Remove the 4 large screws that bolt actuator to valve body and remove the actuator from valve.
Remove the 4 screws of the valve. Then unscrew the nut off the handle and place handle and nut on valve body diverter and screw it on. Pull up and remove the diverter and check to see if there is any debris, toy, or something blocking the diverter from rotating.
You can also check valve movement before removing the diverter off the body. If you can’t move it manually then something could be stuck inside valve which is preventing the actuator from rotating diverter.
I suggested to toggle the switch to one side in order for the actuator to possibly pinch and hold any possible debris in its place.
Oh and do all this with the pool pump off.
What if the dipsticks do nothing...don't move the valves at all?
Either the electronic valve is damaged and failed or the board. Mostly the valve.
Helped me. Thanks. 🤙
good info
Thank u
So did you just find that the actuator was bad and needed replacement?
Yes
So basically you have a bad Jandy valve even though it works manually with the dipstick? I am having the same issue with mine, I thought it was the solar controller but after installing it I am still having the same issue. Should I order a new Jandy valve? Thanks for the video!
Why would you post a video with such bad wind noise that it drowns out your commentary?
Can’t stop Mother Nature sir. Sorry